HSU GOODSPACE PLAN

Plan®
Trade list
Cabinet Maker/Millworker & Furniture Builders
VAN ARBOUR DESIGN 25417 58th Ave Aldergrove
Gerald Van Woudenberg 604.857.2272
SOMA FURNITURE INC.
102 - 6200 Darnley St Burnaby
Dave Rootman 604.632.1777 [email protected] somafurniture.net
SOFO KITCHENS 11818 Stephens Street Maple Ridge
Radu Soos 604.727.1764 [email protected] sofokitchens.com
Closet Systems
CANADIAN CLOSET SHOP 105 - 7450 Lowland Dr Burnaby
Mark or Linda
604.433.7432 [email protected] canadianclosetshop.com
CALIFORNIA CLOSETS 5049 Still Creek Ave Burnaby
877.905.6355 [email protected]
Electricians
JD ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS 604 - 1225 Barclay St Vancouver
Daniel Ip
604.218.1809 [email protected]
NELCAN ELECTRIC 1850 East 11th Ave Vancouver
Nelson Martins 604.418.4740 [email protected]
MARK REGALADO 604.710.3945
Plumbers
FLUID INSTALLATIONS Paul Leathley 604.999.1614 [email protected]
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Plan® Glass Suppliers and
General Construction
HEADLAND CONSTRUCTION 209 - 3083 W4th Ave Vancouver
Mark Ellis
604.505.9667 [email protected] headlandconstruction.com
PEAK VENTURES
204 – 1410 Alpha Lake Rd Whistler
David Girard 604.938.0688 [email protected]
KLONDIKE CONTRACTING 1375 W6th Ave
Vancouver
Eric Schapira
604.708.3337 [email protected]
Hardwood Flooring Install & Repair
GABRIEL VEGA 604.818.4053
MORGAN FLOORS VANCOUVER Vancouver
Morgan Anderson
778.232.3025 [email protected]
Fabricators
OPTIMUM GLASS 202-8475 Ontario St Vancouver
Curtis or Scott 778.227.6616
VANCOUVER GLASS 1706 E. Hastings St Vancouver
Betty Penman 604.253.7707 [email protected]
Furniture Refinishers
RICHMOND FINISHERS 11729 92A Ave
Delta
Dave Goodwin 604.930.3020
JR WEST LTD.
8276 George St Vancouver
Rona-Lee 604.321.4477 [email protected]
DON GRAHAM FURNITURE RESTORATION 1411 Charlotte Road
North Vancouver
Don Graham
604.984.8313 [email protected] donald-graham.org


Plan®
Painters & Wallpaper Installation
ROBERTSON PAINTING 11391 Seahurst Rd Richmond
Darren Robertson 604.551.3156 [email protected]
F & M SCHOLD PAINTING 37-7488 Southwynde Ave Burnaby
Ference Schold
604.721.4271 [email protected] fandmscholdpainting.ca
Furniture and Cabinet Door Painting
PERFECTION PAINT WORKS 206 - 20285 Stewart Cres Maple Ridge
Roger
604.465.6900 [email protected]
Trade Showrooms
MOBITAL - by appt. only 101 - 13128 80th Ave Surrey
Gary Christianson 604.501.2112 [email protected] mobital.ca
VANGOGH DESIGNS - by appt only 12885 85th Ave
Surrey
Allison Buchanan
604.543.9200 [email protected] Vangoghdesigns.com
STYLUS - by appt only
7885 Riverfront Gate Burnaby
Kimberly Sontowski 604.463.4100 [email protected] stylussofas.com
STYLE IN FORM - by appt only 7 – 8289 North Fraser Way Burnaby
Roslyn Taylor
604.522.8955 [email protected] styleinform.com
Beautiful Things - Art
ART WORKS GALLERY 225 Smithe St Vancouver
Rodney Cirrol Clark 604.688.3301 artworksbc.com
JENNIFER KOSTUIK GALLERY 1070 Homer St
Vancouver
Jennifer Kostuik 604.737.3969 [email protected] kostuikgallery.com
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Plan®
MAGNUM FRAMES Vancouver 604.873.3884 [email protected]
FRAMED CUSTOM FRAMING 1969 Pine St
Vancouver
David Kelly
604.731.3089 [email protected] framedvancouver.com
EQUINOX GALLERY– by appt only 525 Great Northern Way Vancouver
604.736.2405 [email protected] equinoxgallery.com
AFFORDABLE ART PRINTS - 20 x200 [email protected] 20x200.com
Chachkas
THE CROSS 1198 Homer St Vancouver Stephanie 604.689.2900 crossdesign.com
PROVIDE
529 Beatty St Vancouver
Robert
604.632.0095 [email protected] providehome.com
MINT INTERIORS
1805 Fir St
Vancouver 604.568.3430 [email protected] mintinteriors.ca
PARLIAMENT INTERIORS
115 Water St
Vancouver
Craig Parkes
604.689.0800 [email protected] parliamentinteriors.com
OLD FAITHFUL
320 West Cordova St Vancouver
778.327.9376 [email protected] oldfaithfulshop.com
P+A FURNITURE INC. 159 West Hastings St Vancouver 604.255.2089 [email protected] pafurniture.ca
DA VINCIS HOME
1461 Bellevue Ave
West Vancouver 604.921.3344 [email protected] davincishome.ca


Plan®
CHINTZ & COMPANY 950 Homer St Vancouver
Dwayne 604.689.2022 chintz.com
Home Sense homesense.ca
Flowers and Plants
PLUSH FLORAL STUDIO 3978b Hastings St
Burnaby
Mandy [email protected] plushfloralstudio.ca
GARLAND FLORISTS 2950 Broadway W Vancouver 604.739.6688 garlandsflorists.com fandmscholdpainting.ca
KERMODI LIVING ART SHOWROOM 115 Water St
Vancouver
604.630.3759
kermodi.com
COAL HARBOUR GREEN DESIGN 323 Jervis Street
Vancouver
604.669.5678 coalharbourgreendesign.com
FLOWER FACTORY 3604 Main Street Vancouver 604.871.1008 www.flowerfactory.ca
Home Organization
SIMPLY PRODUCTIVE Sherry Borsheim 604.233.7076 [email protected] simplyproductive.com
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Plan®
tips
a) Hiring a trades person b) Lighting tips
c) Styling tips
d) Art hanging tips
e) Moulding & trim terminology


Plan®
a) Hiring a tradesperson
Hiring a tradesperson (carpenter, electrician, plumber, etc.) can be a daunting task; but it needn’t be. There are a lot of well-qualified people out there who would be perfect for any job you have. The harder part might be finding them, and then making the best use of them once they’re on the job. Most trades charge by the hour. So, the more focused you are with them, the less hours they are likely to take completing your project. Remember that, and plan accordingly.
Whatever trade you are looking to hire, be sure they have the technical, business and interpersonal skills needed to work well with you and to accomplish the task at hand. Here are some tips to make this process a little less daunting.
1. Write it down
There is no job or detail too small to put to paper, so leave nothing to the imagination. Write things down for your tradesperson. Using the information provided in your Good Space Plan, provide a detailed description of the work you want done for each trade you plan to hire.
Where applicable, Good Space will have specified certain products and brands; make sure you include these in your written description. The more detail you can provide your trades person, the less chance there is of a misunderstanding. Simple gaps in communication often lead to disappointment on the final product, disagreements about payment, or both. We don’t mean to nag but, again, write it down.
2. Start looking
Start with people you know and trust, like your friends, family or even a neighbour who has had similar work done. They are usually your best resource for accurate references when it comes to dependability, quality of work, and overall experience. Look to relevant retail outlets. Local building supply stores, like Home Depot, will often offer trades people for hire. Lighting stores will usually have a list of qualified electricians. Paint stores, like Benjamin Moore, can often recommend reputable painters for you to contact. Google it.
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Plan® Hiring a tradesperson (cont.)
3. Narrow your search
If possible, interview two or three tradespeople before making a final decision. Give each trades person a copy of the written job description that you have prepared so they have something to take away and refer to when quoting.
Here are some questions to ask. Don’t be shy; professional tradespeople are used to being asked these questions. If they can’t or won’t answer these questions, it’s probably your first clue you should speak to someone else.
• How long have you been in business?
• Do you have a board certified ticket? (Electricians and Plumbers)
• Are you bonded?
• Have you done similar jobs before?
• Will you be doing the work yourself or contracting it out?
• Will you leave the job site clean of all mess?
• Do you offer warranty on your work? If so, what does it cover?
• Do you have Workers’ Compensation and liability insurance? (a professional tradesperson will have these. If they have neither, you may be at risk)
• Will you provide a written quotation/ contract? (Insist on this)
• When and how do you expect to be paid? (a professional tradesperson may ask for a deposit, but never for full payment in advance)
• Can you provide references? Preferably ones that are not related to you...
• Keep good notes from the interviews and date them so you can easily review them.
• Get detailed line item quotes. Don’t assume the first quote you get is the best deal from the best person. Don’t be afraid to go back and ask a candidate to fully explain their quote and/or provide another one.
4. Check references
Ask for names and numbers of current and former clients. No matter how desperately you want to get started on your project, always, always, always (note subtle repeat of “always” for emphasis) check your trade’s business references.
• Ask these clients how the job went – the good, the bad?
• Did the quality of work and materials meet their expectations?
• Did they complete the job on time and on budget?


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• Did they treat you and your property with respect?
• Would you hire them again?
5. Get them to write it down
Have your tradesperson provide you
with a written detailed line item quote that includes all the materials, labour, a payment schedule, a start and completion date for your project. Make sure their quote is clear and matches all of your project description.
Let them know that you plan to hold them to this quote and that any modifications to it must be confirmed in writing.
6. Watch for the warning signs
Listen to your gut when you’re meeting with candidates. Said simply, are they people you feel comfortable having in your home?
Consider the following signs that might indicate you are dealing with someone who is not entirely on the up-and-up.
• If they refuse to put anything in writing
• If they ask for full payment up front
• If they ask you to only pay in cash (not a deal-breaker, but it could affect your ability to make a claim against a warranty or insurance)
• If they won’t give receipts for service
• If they are not properly insured or covered by WCB
• If they are ridiculously late to a meeting
• If they take forever to get back to you
• If they are unwilling to give you an easy method to reach them
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Plan® b) Lighting tips
Lighting affects our everyday lives in many ways: performance, mood, morale, safety, security and more. Yet, it is too often overlooked when it comes to properly designing a space. Not with Good Space; and so we offer up the following general information on the most common types of light fixtures and some useful information when it comes to positioning and installing them.
Before we dive in, however, a note. Because lighting often requires electrical work and because electrical work has
a deserved degree of safety concerns associated with it, we always recommend working with a licensed electrician if you are not very knowledgeable in this area.
Wall Sconces
A wall sconce is a light fixture that is mounted to a vertical surface, usually the walls of your home. Whether it is in your
living room, dining room or bathroom, wall sconces can provide a great source of ambient and/or task lighting. Wall sconces in living areas (living room, dining room, family room, etc.) are typically used more for ambient lighting.
When installing wall sconces in living areas, it is important to place them in scale to the room. The recommended mounting height is 72 inches high (from the floor) for an 8
foot ceiling and 78 inches high for ceilings 9 feet or higher. The distance between sconces is determined by the scale and furniture layout of the room. Sconces
are usually hardwired into the wall and activated by a light switch. However, there are many wall sconces that offer a plug-in option, with a chord reaching down to an outlet.
Wall sconces in a bathroom are typically more task-oriented than ambient, installed to light your face when
you’re standing in front of the mirror.
Wall sconces in a bathroom provide
an effective second layer of lighting to overhead fixtures, which on their own can down-light the face and create shadows (something that is never flattering.)
When installing sconces in a bathroom
for vanity lighting, the sconce should be mounted on either side of the mirror close to eye level, approximately 60 inches to 65 inches from the floor and ideally 30 inches to 40 inches apart.
Wall sconces in a bedroom are typically more task-oriented when placed by the bed: more ambient if placed elsewhere. When wall sconces are placed by a bed for reading, some sort of pivoting head on the sconce is ideal.
The installation spacing and height placement of a bedside wall sconce will


Plan®
vary according to the size of the bed,
the size of nightstands, the height of the people who will be using the light and
how high the bed is off the floor. The
wall sconce should be placed just above shoulder height when sitting up in bed and be close enough that you can turn the light on or off without getting out of bed.
heights of 9 feet or more. In these open walking areas, the lowest point on the chandelier should be 78 inches (6.5 feet) from the floor. Taller ceilings provide an excellent opportunity to select a chandelier with multiple tiers and levels.
Some chandeliers come with stems connecting them to the ceiling, creating
a more polished look; other chandeliers come with chains. Chains allow for greater flexibility in situations where the electrical box is not exactly above where you would like the chandelier to hang. Swagging allows the fixture to be installed from an existing electrical box and swagged over to the desired location. Swagging also allows for flexibility with height adjustment. While a solid stem chandelier generally comes with incremented segments to enable you to adjust the height as needed.
When installing a chandelier over a dining room table, ceiling height and table size are the two most important factors to consider. The chandelier should look proportionate to the table and not overwhelm it or, for that matter, the room.
When considering the width of a dining room chandelier, a general guideline is to select a fixture that has a diameter somewhere between half and three quarters the diameter (or width) of the tabletop. When considering the height of a dining room chandelier, a good rule of thumb is to allow 2.5 to 3 inches for each
Chandeliers
A chandelier is any multi-bulb light fixture that is suspended from the ceiling of your home. They can be used in any room
of your home, from dining rooms and living rooms to hallways, bedrooms and even bathrooms. Chandeliers in an entry hallway, large living room or stairwell can make an impressive statement as well as provide ambient lighting for the entire space.
With that said, be aware that chandeliers in a living space where people would walk underneath it generally require ceiling
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SHOULDER HT OR 20"-24"


Plan® Lighting tips (cont.)
foot of a room’s height. For example, a room that has an 8 foot ceiling can support a chandelier that is approximately 20 to 24 inches in height.
When installing your chandelier in your dining room, hang it so the bottom of the chandelier is 27 inches to 36 inches above the top of a table. A chandelier hanging above a dining room table should never block a diner’s view across it.
Please note that additional ceiling support is sometimes required when hanging chandeliers heavier than 45 pounds. This
is something that you will want to discuss with your electrician before purchasing the fixture.
27"-36"
Swag Chain
Solid Stem
27"- 36"
27"- 36"


Plan®
Flush Mount Light Fixture
A flush mount fixture are
ceiling mounted lights that are directly attached to the ceiling
without a chain or central stem. These are another great source of task and ambient lighting.
Lamps
Floor and table lamps are free standing light fixtures that plug into electrical outlets. They can be placed anywhere you need personal,
task, or extra ambient lighting. They come in a huge variety of styles
and finishes and provide an incredible decorative touch to any space. With
lamps we always recommend playing
with proportion. Don’t be afraid to go big and make a statement; and always add a dimmer so you can soften and control the level of lighting for different situations and moods (see Dimmers).
For Bedroom reading 16"-18" lamps sitting on bedside tables, the bottom of the
shade should be a little
below your line of sight while sitting up in bed or about 16 to 18
inches from the top of the mattress. Of course, you need to consider the height of your nightstands and your bed when figuring this out.
A word on cord management. While
we are all waiting patiently for a 100% wireless world, electrical cords are still a cold, hard reality. While hiding cords can be a challenge, it’s not impossible. For instance, you can use furniture pieces and area rugs as camouflage, and some desks come with built-in back panels to hide the cords. You’ll need to get creative but cord covers/conduits, paint, eye hooks, zip ties, wide staples are all available at your local hardware store and can work wonders
in hiding electrical cords. When in doubt Google it; there are often after-market solutions just waiting there to solve your cord dilemma. Finally, an electrician fishing wires behind walls and installing electrical boxes where needed can provide the perfect solution and will cost less than you think.
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16"-18"


Plan® Lighting tips (cont.)
Pendants
A pendant light is a fixture that is suspended from the ceiling, usually two
or more single lights suspended over a kitchen bar or island, often hanging by a cable, stem, chain or wire.
When installing pendent lights in the kitchen above a bar or counter, make certain the light fixture clears the head of the tallest family member when seated at the counter and will not obstruct their views. Allow 36 to 48 inches from the top of the counter height (36”) – not the bar height (42)”.
Start the row of lights 10 to 15 inches from either end of the island or table, and space them evenly within that span. Consider the size of your bar and the recommended number of lights in your Good Space Plan.
Recessed Pot Lighting
A recessed pot light (sometimes referred to simply as a pot light) is a
fixture that is recessed into a ceiling. They have a housing that is flush to the ceiling surface and often comes with a variety of interior trim finishes. These fixtures can provide a wall wash of light, general room lighting, accent lighting or frame a picture.
In terms of size, we recommend a 4 inch diameter recessed pot light. Stay away from a large diameter pot light as it does not provide the best light and looks dated. The most attractive trim for standard pot lighting is matte white because it naturally disappears into the ceiling (which is often painted matte white).
Bathroom sealed recessed pot lights
are sealed fixtures required by code for showers and tubs. Pot lighting in the shower or above a bath should always be a sealed trim with a frosted glass finish.
Dimmers
In case you missed it earlier in your plan, we are big on dimmers. We recommend putting dimmer switches on as many light sources as possible. Dimmer switches give you maximum flexibility with your lighting, allowing you to adjust brightness and intensity, depending on the mood you’re trying to set, time of day, event or task at hand. They are a bit more expensive that regular switches, but they are relatively easy to install and very much worth the effort and money.
Bulbs
With so many different types of bulbs to choose from it is easy to get confused. As a rule of thumb when selecting your light bulbs it is best to be consistent. Try not to
16"-18"


Plan®
mix different types of light bulbs in a room as they emit different types of light, from cool white to warm white. Also whenever possible make sure to select bulbs that are dimmable. The typical types of light bulbs are as follows:
Incandescent Bulbs — Often referred to as ‘conventional light bulbs,’ halogen bulbs or heat lamp bulbs. They provide a wonderful, warm light but are less energy efficient than other types of bulbs. Higher wattages (75w-plus) are being phased out by local governments.
Compact Florescent Bulbs — Often used in commercial applications, though they are becoming more common in the home, often replacing the 75 to 150 watt incandescent bulbs.
Please note that compact florescent bulbs contain mercury, which we need to keep out of landfills and the environment. These should always be disposed of responsibly at your local recycling depots and should never be mixed with your household garbage.
LED Bulbs – are a solid-state lamp that uses light-emitting diodes (LEDs) as the source of light. LED lamps offer long service life and high energy efficiency, but initial costs are higher than those of fluorescent and incandescent bulbs.
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Plan® c) Styling tips
Now that you have all your foundation pieces in place, it’s time to style your rooms! Styling just means putting your stuff out on display in a pleasing way. To help you with this, we have a few design tips to inspire your inner-design diva to come out and get to work.
Copy
The first – and probably best – tip is
to simply copy what you see in design magazines, shops, or show homes... this may seems like cheating, but it’s really not... it’s just a good use of your time and research skills.
Edit
Less is more! When in doubt, don’t put it out. You do not need to display everything you own at once. Do you wear all your shoes at once? Do you wear all your jewelry and clothes at once?
Colour
Introduce bits of your chosen “accent” colour throughout the room. When you are thumbing through decorating books and magazines, notice how bits of the same colour (or shades of that colour) have been strategically introduced to the room through accessories. Even the exposed spines of coffee table books add colour.
Look closely at images of rooms you love and ask yourself – what is it about the details that I love?
Group
Threes or fives – you’ve heard it before, and here it is again. Odds are best.
Group similar objects together; your frog collection will be more interesting (if that’s even possible) when displayed all together – on a tray, shelf, or tabletop.
Contain
Display a grouping on a tray and it will look that much better – even if the objects are not the same. Containment helps bring cohesiveness and order.
Art
This is just a quick tip about art (refer to the Tips section of your Plan for a thorough discussion on hanging art). A small framed photo, painting, or other cool art piece looks great displayed on a plate stand or
a small art easel on top of a shelf or table. A plate or plaque can be treated the same way – think outside the box or off the wall!


Plan®
Plants and Flowers
Flowers and plants are beautiful additions to any room in your home. They add colour, texture and oxygen. But before you run out to buy plants or flowers, consider the following guidelines to make sure your choices have the maximum effect.
Plants
Be merciful with your current plants
Like cut flowers, plants have an expiration date. So, if you have plants that are clearly under-performing or dead, let them go. Do not feel that you failed them. You did the best that you could, so forgive yourself and move on.
Think about size
When choosing house plants, consider one or two large plants for greater impact in a room. The exception to this is if you use a grouping of the same plant in a series of three or more, in matching or complimentary pots on a table or kitchen window sill. A small plant can make a nice addition to a “vignette” of other complimentary items too.
Buy the real deal
Whenever possible, avoid artificial plants and flowers. If you do not want to get another live plant, consider an alternative from nature. For example, there may be
a place for a live plant in the spring and summer months, but indoor heating and lack of light kills them in the winter; replace these plants with twigs or branches during the fall and winter months. Use baskets or bowls of things collected from nature such as twigs, stones, cones, nuts, etc.
Use flowering plants like you would use cut flowers.
Buy seasonal flowering plants for affordability. Take them out of the foil they sometimes come in, and place them in a great pot or basket. A group of three or five small flowering plants, placed in baskets or pots, can be stunning!
Take good care
Give your plants a chance by minding the care instructions that come with them. If you have a very shady spot in a room that gets no light, don’t buy a plant that needs lots of light. Don’t let them dehydrate, but don’t over-water, which is a common mistake.
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Plan® Styling tips (cont.)
Flowers
Choose seasonal cut flowers
They are fresh, and therefore more reasonably priced.
Keep bouquets simple
When arranging your own flowers stick to all one type (tulips), all one colour (white) or preferably both (white tulips). Floral arranging is complex; so unless you are
a gifted floral designer, remember that less is more. Greens in a bouquet are not required. Often, flowers have more impact when displayed on their own. Consider an arrangement of cut greens, mixing various shades and shapes.
Trust Mother Nature
If nature did not give the flower its colour, then let it stay in the shop. Just say no to dyed flowers.
Again, take good care
For fresh cut flowers change the water and re-cut the stems every few days. Pull out dead ones to freshen up the arrangement.
Get inspired
Clip images of arrangements that you like and keep a file of them for inspiration.
Do not forget the beauty of fresh fruit
A bowl of shiny apples, pears, or grapes is beautiful. A bowl or vase of limes or lemons, a tray of tomatoes...you get the idea.


Plan®
d) Art hanging tips
Art can be sourced locally and online. A great online resource, for purchasing art or just getting ideas, is www.art.com.
Favourite family photographs make for great art. For a cohesive look, use the same frames for all the photos and hang them in a grouping.
Finally, remember art is never wrong if you love it! Wall Art
6"-8"
Wall Art above chairs
Width of Art - Less than Furniture Width
6”-8”
Wall Art above sofa
Wall Art
10”-12”
Wall Art above table or console, or adjust to suit other decor items like lamps
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Approximately 60” above floor


Plan® Art hanging tips (cont.)
Wall Art (continued)
Stacked Grouping: Eye level art
Spacing Tip:
1” - 2” between frames
Small Spaces
Mixed Grouping: Centre of display at eye level or 60” above floor.
TIP:
Lay out display on floor first - adjust to your liking.
Large Spaces
Salon Style:
A mix of sizes and objects can go to ceiling.
TIP:
Try brown paper templates and painters tape of the art sizes and shapes on the wall first.
Large Spaces
Approximately 60” above floor
Approximately 60” above floor


Plan®
Leaning Art & Mirrors
TIP:
If the pieces are heavy or fragile, secure them to the wall
On a shelf, mantle or piece of furniture
TIP:
Make sure the leaning piece is secure at the top for safety
On a narrow ledge or floor
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Plan® Art hanging tips (cont.)
Bookshelf
Small art on plate stands or easels


Plan®
d) Moulding and trim terminology
Even the most basic baseboard mouldings can be tricky to install for the average person. There is more to this type of work than meets the eye.
A finishing carpenter is an expert at installing all kinds of trim; such as crown moulding, baseboard trim, door casing, window trim, and window casing. The finishing/trim carpenter has a very unique set of skills that are needed for a clean and professional look.
When buying new mouldings you generally get what you pay for. The smaller, flimsy mouldings are less expensive and generally look that way once they are installed. Choose a material with a thick exposed edge for a more substantial quality look.
Our advice is a skilled finishing carpenter and quality mouldings are always worth the added expense.
Terminology
Window Header
Window Casing
Wainscot Baseboard
Crown
Door Header
Door Casing Wainscot Cap
Plinth Block
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Moulding and trim terminology (cont.)
Stair Details
Baluster Handrail Baluster (Spindle)
Stringer Newel Post
Stringer Handrail
Nosing
Stair Tread Stair Riser
Baseboard
Windows
Mitered Casing
Plain Butt Casing
Crown Cap Flat Header Fillet Strip
Sill Sill Apron
Header & Sill Apron
Mitered Casing
Sill Sill Apron
Plain Butt Casing
Sill
Sill Apron
Picture Frame
Picture Frame & Sill Apron


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Doors
Wainscot
Flat Trim Door Case
Mitred Door Case
Header Door Case
Rail & Stile
Raised Panel Wainscot
Beadboard
Rail & Stile Wainscot
Beadboard Wainscot
Raised Panel
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glossary of terms
A
ACCENT LIGHTING
Controlled and focused light used to accent interior elements or architectural details
AFF
Above finished floor
ARMOIRE
Originally large cabinet or wardrobe used for storing clothes, often converted into entertainment or computer centre
B
BASEBOARD
A board, covering the lowest part of an interior wall; covering the joint between the wall surface and the floor
BATH & VANITY LIGHTING
Lights to fit across the top or along the side of a bathroom mirror
BANQUETTE
Built-in or free-standing upholstered bench for dining
BAY WINDOW
Typically composed of three windows constructed with two angled side windows projecting from an exterior wall
BEAM
Horizontal structural support for another floor or roof
BEAD BOARD
Interlocking tongue and groove boards that incorporate beaded, routed detail; beaded panels are typically 21⁄2 or 3 inches wide
BEVELED EDGE
Slanted edge detail used on wood, marble, glass, etc.
BUFFET
Linear furniture piece with storage for dishes, also used as a counter for serving
BUREAU
Refers to an American dresser or French writing desk
C
CABINET LIGHTING
Lighting for countertops, kitchen cabinets, soffits, or coves, usually mounted close to the surface you wish to light
CABLE SYSTEMS
A set of parallel wires suspended from a wall or ceiling where separate spotlights can be placed anywhere on this cable


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CAD/CADD
Computer aided drafting and design
CASING
Trim around a window or door opening
CHAIR RAIL
Wood trim installed horizontally on a wall around a room, usually about 30” above the floor.
CHAISE LOUNGE
Long reclining chair or sofa
CHANDELIER
Ceiling mounted light fixture with arms branching out from a central support commonly used in dining rooms or entryways for decorative effect
COFFERED CEILING
Recessed panels created in a ceiling
COMPLIMENTARY COLOR
Colors opposite each other on a color wheel i.e. red vs. green, blue vs. orange, purple vs. yellow
CONTEMPORARY
Designs with simple lines, curves and geometric patterns
CONSOLE
A piece of furniture often used to house electronic equipment
CROWN MOULDING
Moulding installed where the wall and ceiling meet or applied at the top of furniture or cabinets
D
DISTRESSED
Finish technique creating an aged patina, uneven or worn appearance
DOOR CASING
The wooden trim that surrounds the jamb of the door or entry system
DOOR HEADER
The horizontal framing member located at the top of a door opening
DOWN LIGHT
Light source facing downward from ceiling
E
ECLECTIC
Utilizing elements from multiple sources and styles
ELEVATION
Scaled drawing depicting details on an exterior or interior wall
F
FENG SHUI
Ancient Chinese practice of harmonizing the built environment with spiritual forces
FILL
Material to fill an insert used in toss cushions, pillows, duvets etc. and if it says 50/50 it refers to quantities of each fill (e.i. 50% poly and 50% feather)
you function surfaces light goods implement tips glossary


Plan®
A filler piece commonly used on window
FILLET STRIP frames & furniture
FURNITURE LAYOUT
Position of furniture and accessories, including cabinetry, upholstery, area rugs, plants, etc. planned for space, shown
in relation to walls, windows, electrical, flooring transitions, etc.
G
GREEN DESIGN
Sustainable design methods utilizing recycled, renewable and environmentally friendly materials and design elements
GROUT
A mortar or paste for filling crevices, esp. the gaps between wall or floor tiles
H
HARDWARE
All the “metal” fittings that go into the home when it is near completion; i.e. door knobs, towel bars
HARP
Vertical metal frame shaped to bend around the bulb in a standing lamp and used to support a lamp shade
HEADBOARD/FOOTBOARD
Plain or decorative boards or other materials used to create a headrest or end support on a bed, connected by side rails, i.e. carved wood, upholstered, iron, etc.
FINIAL
Decorative hardware, wood, metal or cast materials used to cap drapery rods, newel posts, furnishings, woodwork, lamps etc.
FINISH
Final treatment, covering or coating
FLAT FINISH
A non-reflective finish
FLING ROD
A rod used to draw drapes and other large window treatments
FLOOR LAMPS & TABLE LAMPS
Portable lamps that stand freely on the floor and plug into electrical receptacles
FLOOR PLAN
Scaled drawing, typically drawn at 1/4” to 1’0” scale, indicating walls, windows, electrical outlets, interior finishes and furniture placement
FLUORESCENT LIGHTING
Primarily used in commercial applications, but becoming more common in the home, especially in recreational, storage rooms, or laundry rooms
FLUSH MOUNT LIGHT FIXTURE
Ceiling light fixtures that are directly attached to the ceiling without a chain or central stem


Plan®
HERRINGBONE
Fabric weaving technique created by alternating the direction in threading the loom to form a zigzag or “V” pattern
HOUNDSTOOTH
Small scaled, broken check pattern
I
INCANDESCENT LIGHT
Light from a conventional bulb, halogen bulb or heat lamp
INLAY
To set one material into the surface of another creating a decorative pattern
IRIDESCENT Opalescent luster
IRONWORK
Decorative, hand-forged iron or cast iron grilles, screens, gates, grates, etc.
J
JOIST
Floor or ceiling beam support
K
KNIFE EDGE
A clean no detail finish found on cushions or pillows using a single seam around the perimeter
L
LACQUER
Synthetic coating dried to form a protective film
LANDING
Intermediate floor between flights of stairs
LAYOUT
Defining space for a specific purpose; prior arrangement of design to be implemented
LEAD TIME
Amount of time required to receive a product once it has been ordered
LINOLEUM
Natural flooring made of linseed oil, cork dust, wood flour, tree resins, ground limestone and pigments
LOVESEAT
Upholstered seating designed to seat two, usually with arms and back
M
MANTEL
Decorative fireplace treatment installed surrounding the fire proof material of the fire box
MATERIAL BOARD
Board presentation featuring images
of furniture, accessories, lighting or equipment, complete with finish and fabric swatches
you function surfaces light goods implement tips glossary


Plan®
MILLWORK
Woodwork manufactured for furniture, interior trim, doors, moulding, cabinets etc.
MITERED CORNER
Corner that is joined at a 45°angle used around door casings or window casings
MOULDING
Straight or decorative strip used for ornamentation.
MOSAIC TILE
A tile that tends to be less than 6’’ square
N
NEWEL POST
The post at the top or bottom of a flight of stairs; it supports the handrail
NICHE
Recessed opening, often arched at the top, set in a wall with a shelf
NOSING
A rounded edge of a step or molding
O
O/C
On center
ONE WAY DRAW
Refers to drapery panel operations where the panels moves in one direction, either left or right
OPAQUE
Surface or material, which does not allow light to pass, i.e. black-out lining
OVER SCALED
Large in scale for the space
P
PAISLEY
Intricate interlocking curvilinear pattern
PARTITION WALL
Non-structural interior dividing wall
PATINA
Lustrous, aged finish
PENDANT
Hanging ornamentation or electrical fixture mounted from the ceiling hung on a chain, stems, cable or wire
PICTURE LEDGE
Narrow ledge, attached to the wall used to display artwork or other framed pieces
PLAN VIEW
A room drawing shown as if viewed from the ceiling, showing scaled layout, typically drawn 1/4” to 1’0” scale.
PLINTH BLOCK
A block of wood placed at the bottom of door casing to separate the casing and base moldings
PO
Purchase order


Plan®
PONY WALL
Less than full height wall
PORTFOLIOS
Collection of images, color boards and other multi-media for presentation purposes
R
RAIL AND STILE
Woodworking technique often used in the making of doors, wainscoting, and other decorative features for cabinets & furniture etc. where the raised wood vertical pieces around an opening is called stiles and the horizontal pieces are called the rails
RAISED PANEL
A panel that projects outward beyond the surrounding frame or wall
RECESSED LIGHT
Lights inset into the ceiling or furniture. housing is flushed to the ceiling surface
REFLECTED CEILING PLAN
Scaled drawing of a space indicating all ceiling fixtures and height transitions
REPRODUCTION
A copy, imitation or duplication of an original object, style or structure
RESILIENCE
Ability of carpet fibers to spring back to original shape after being crushed
RISER
Vertical member of a staircase supporting the horizontal tread
ROMAN SHADE
Window treatment utilizing a series of fabric tapes, rings and cords stitched onto the shade, which draws up into horizontal pleats when raised. Flat roman - when fully extended the shade is perfectly flat; Waterfall roman- when fully extended
the shade retains soft folds down the full length of the shade
S
SALON HANG
A style of hanging multiple artworks on a wall
SCONCE
Wall-mounted light fixture
SECTIONAL
Elongated upholstered seating created with multiple, connected
SETTEE
Medium-sized sofa or long bench
SHEERS
Window treatment constructed with translucent fabrics and materials
SIDEBOARD
Case goods, often 36” high, used for serving food and storing china – see buffet
you function surfaces light goods implement tips glossary


Plan®
SLATTED BLIND
Horizontal metal, vinyl or wood blind constructed with strings woven through the edge of each slat and connected to
a head rail, which enables the blind to be tilted up or down with a wand, pulley or continuous cord, i.e. mini blind or venetian blind
SOFA
Upholstered seating designed to accommodate three or more people, usually with arms and back
SOFFIT
The underside of a structural member, i.e. dropped ceiling, overhang
SPACE PLANNING
Arranging fixtures, furnishings and equipment within a given space taking into account traffic flow, furniture scale, use of occupants, handicap requirements, electrical, etc.
SPECIFICATION
Detailed outline including all important and necessary criteria for construction or implementation
SPINDAL
A piece of wood that has been turned, used on stair railings or furniture legs
STAIR RISER
A vertical board that connects two treads of a stair step
STAIR TREAD
The horizontal board in a stairway that is walked upon – the step
STRINGER
A side of a staircase, which supports the treads and risers
SUBWAY TILE
A style of white glazed ceramic tile commonly sized 3” × 6”
T
TONGUE AND GROVE
Wood joinery created by milling a tongue on the edge of a flat board, which slips into a corresponding groove on an adjacent board
TRACK LIGHTING
Adjustable incandescent fixtures mounted along an electrified metal track installed on the ceiling or wall
TRIM
Decorate an item, typically with contrasting items or pieces of material
TRUNDLE BED
Daybed twin bed frame housing an additional mattress below, which is pulled out as needed


Plan® A wainscot cap is used to finish the top
U
UP LIGHT
Light source originating at the floor or other surface, shining up towards an object
UPHOLSTERY
Materials used to make soft seating on wood or metal frames
V
VALANCE
Shallow box placed at the heading of a window or other opening, concealing hardware
VANITY
Bathroom unit with countertops, often consisting of a washbasin with a cabinet beneath
VENEER
Paper-thin wood sheets applied to the outer surface of furniture, which are often inlaid or matched to create intricate, decorative patterns
W
WAINSCOTING
Materials applied to the bottom third of an interior wall, i.e. bead board, paneling, chair rail molding
WAINSCOT CAP
edge of a wainscot wall treatment
WALLCOVERING
Flexible materials such as paper, vinyl, foil, fabric, felt, cork, carpet or veneers applied to a wall
WALL HANGING
Fabric panel hung on the wall
WALLPAPER
Pattern printed onto paper, which is adhered to the wall
WALL WASHING
Glare-free ambient lighting installed at regular intervals around the ceiling or floor to evenly illuminate walls
WINDOW TREATMENTS
Any decorative application to a window frame or pane of glass including blinds, draperies, window film, etc.
WINDOW CASING See casing
WORK ORDER
Signed document specifying work to be completed, including details and illustrations
WORK SURFACE
Any surface designed for accomplishing a task. i.e. counter
you function surfaces light goods implement tips glossary


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