Perform Benchwork (Complex)

Worksheet 1.2.3 : Measuring current, Voltage And Resistance

3. 1. 4 Worksheet

Learning outcomes:

3 “Performed Bench work” (File Work piece)

Learning Activity:
3.2 “Identify different types of file its uses and applications”

A. MULTIPLE CHOICE. Select the correct answer. Write the letter of the correct
answer on the blank provided before each number.

__________ 1. The material removal process in manufacturing and also used
known for finishing operation.
a. Saw
b. Chisel
c. Extractor
d. File

___________ 2. Most widely used file for flat and convex surface wedge.
a. Square file
b. Flat file
c. Hand file
d. Mill file

___________ 3. A kind of file that has parallel in width that cut only in one edge.
a. Flat file
b. Hand file
c. Mill file
d. Flat file

____________ 4. File that have thin rectangular section and is used for very
narrow slotting.

a. Hand file
b. Flat file
c. Warding file
d. Mill file

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307
Nov. 28, 2003 Mar 01, 2006 1

Worksheet 1.2.3 : Measuring current, Voltage And Resistance

___________ 5. File used for filing keyways and for enlarging square and
Rectangular holes.

a. Rectangular file
b. Square file
c. Millar file
d. Half round file

___________ 6. File have an equilateral triangular section and is used for
clearing out square corners.
a. Millar file
b. Square file
c. Rectangular file
d. Half round file

___________ 7. File that has segmental in shape, used for single cut and
double cut on the convex side.
a. Half round file
b. Millar file
c. Square file
d. Rectangular file

___________ 8. Designed to file bronze or brass for finishing surface.
a. Half round file
b. Square file
c. Rectangular file
d. Mill saw file

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307
Nov. 28, 2003 Mar 01, 2006 2

Worksheet 1.2.3 : Measuring current, Voltage And Resistance

___________ 9. A file that has a single cut in a “spiral fashion” used for
smaller sizes of round taper files.
a. Half round file
b. Square file
c. Warding file
d. Round file

___________10. A types of file that teeth formed by double set of parallel
chisel cuts that cross each other diagonally.
a. Square file
b. Warding file
c. Round file
d. Double -cut file

B. ESSAY TYPE:

1. Describe a File.

a. Give the different parts of a file.
b. What are the different types of file?
c. Give the two types of cut of a file.
d. What is Pinning of a file?

2. Why should pinning of a file is important? What are the
possible causes?

3. Give at least 5 Don’ts in filing.

****END****

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307
Nov. 28, 2003 Mar 01, 2006 3

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

3.1.3 Information Sheet
Learning outcome:
3 “Performed Bench Work” (File Work piece)
Learning Activity:
3.2 “ Identify different Types of Files its uses and application”
_________________________________________________________________________

Different Bench work operation:

2. File work piece

FILE

Filing is a material removal process in manufacturing and also used mostly for finishing
operation. Filing like sawing, is a hand operation requiring patience. Some feel that precision
grinding is replacing filing, and on some classes of work this true; nevertheless, the
machinist and tool maker must still use their filing skill.

File are classified as to kind according to the “shapes of their cross section”

Distinguishing Features of Files

1. Length
2. Shape of cross section
3. Character of teeth
4. Coarseness of teeth

Parts of file

• Handle
• Length
• Side
• Edge
• Point
• Shoulder

es

Code No. The file isSaercvuicttiinngg Stotaorlt.iInfgthSeytseteetmh are Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

ALT72A3r3e0b7attered, their effectiveness is impaired. For thisAruegas1o5n, 2f0il0e3should bMe acrar0e1f,u2ll0y0s6tored. 1

Never throw one file on top of another of another. Rust result is corroded teeth and ruined file.

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

Types of files

 Flat
 Hand
 Warding
 Square
 Triangular
 Half round
 Mill saw
 Round

Flat file

• most widely used
• for general purpose
• for flat and convex surface
• with long range of lengths and grades

Hand file

• parallel in width
• cut on only one edge
• with safe edge (uncut-edge)
• for filing near shoulders

Warding files

Code No. • have very thin rectangular section Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Servicing Starting System Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 2

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

• used for very narrow slotting

Square files

• for filing keyways
• for enlarging square and rectangular holes

Triangular files

• have an equilateral triangle cross-section
• for clearing out square corners
• for filing acute internal angles greater than 60 degrees

Half round files

• segmental in shape
• double cut on the flat side
• single cut or double cut on the convex side
• used with a rolling motion to prevent grooving

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 3

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

Applications

• enlarging large round holes
• filing concave surface
• filing in corners and grooves ( less than 60 degrees

Mill saw files

• designed to file the hardened metal
• are relatively thin files
• has approximately as many teeth per unit length as a flat smooth file of the same

length

Applications

• sharpening mill saws and cutting tools
• filing to a smooth finishing
• for finishing of brass and bronze
• for drawing and filing in the lathe

Round files

• single cut in a ‘spiral’ fashion
• smaller sizes of round taper files are called ‘rat tails’
• must used with an additional rolling motion

Application

• enlarging round holes
• finishing fillets and other concave surfac

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 4

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

Types of cuts

Single cut files

• teeth formed by a single set of parallel chisel cuts
• used with lighter pressure
• give a smooth finish

Double cut files

• teeth formed by a double set of parallel chisel cuts that cross each other
diagonally

• gives a series of small diamond shaped teeth
• suitable for fast removal of metal

Grades of cut

• bastard
• second cut
• smooth

Pining of files

• particles of metal embedded in the file teeth
• create free cutting action

Causes
• filing soft material where chips cannot clear ( e.g. aluminum )
• too much pressure on new and smooth files

Removal of pins

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 5

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

by using wire brush by using file card

Performed Filing Operation

The correct to hold a file

File card and brush

Dont’s in Filing

 Don’t use a file without a handle
 Don’t use a loosely fitting handle
 Don’t use a worn out file
 Don’t use a dirty file
 Don’t use a new file on narrow edges
 Don’t use a good file on cast iron scales
 Don’t use a fine file for filing soft metal
 Don’t use a bastard file for finishing
 Don’t let the file hit the vise jaws

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 6

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

 Don’t allow files to scrape together
 Don’t put your fingers on the cast iron surface being filed
 Don’t push the too fast
 Don’t file too much before testing the work

- END HERE -

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 7

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

3.1.5 - Information Sheet
Learning outcomes:
3 “Performed bench Work “ (Remove damage /broken threaded fastener)

Learning Activity:
3.3 “Identify different Types of Extractors its uses and application”

Different Bench work operation

3. Remove damage / broken threaded
fastener

They say good things come in small packages and that's
true when it comes to this handy little tool called a screw
extractor. When you have a screw head that is stripped or
broken off, or a bolt that has a stripped or broken off head, it
can be impossible to remove without this tool. The screw
extractor (which also works on bolts) comes in a range of sizes
for screws of diameters ranging form 3/32" to upward of 1/2" or
even larger.

The design of the screw extractor is elegantly simple. Screw extractor
It consists of three elements:

 Square Head
 Shaft
 Reverse Tapered Cutting Screw Threads

Square Head
The square head is mostly for being fastened into a "T" Handle
that can be used with this tool to turn it (see next section). The
square head can also be used to turn the extractor by using an
adjustable wrench or vice grip pliers.

Shaft
The extractor is made of high strength steel and the shaft ties
everything together. The vice grip type pliers can also be used
to grip and turn the round shaft if desired.

Tapered Thread

This is the business end of the tool. The threads are designed

to screw BACKWARD or counter-clockwise into the screw or

bolt after a pilot hole has first been drilled. They are tapered so

that the extractor digs into the damaged screw deeper and Screw extractor detail
tighter and the extractor is turned. So while you're turning the

extractor counter clockwise, it's digging into the damaged

screw more and more and turns the damaged screw counter-

clockwise which of course loosens and removes (extracts) the

dCamodaegeNdo.screw. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003 Mar 01, 2006 1

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

t
Method of removing broken threaded fasteners

A method for removing broken fasteners so as to render the broken shank readily removable from a
tapped hole in a machine part after a shear-type fracture of the fastener shank. In one illustrated form
the fastener is a hex head machine bolt having uniformly spaced slots cut into the shank from one
end thereof to the other and filled with a lubricant material prior to installation. After a shear-type
fracture a tool having axial projections at one end thereof mating with the slots is inserted into the
interstices formed by the slots in the periphery of the sheared-off shank portion to force lubricant into
the threads and to provide reaction surfaces to enable use of the tool to turn the shank portion out of
the tapped hole. A second illustrated embodiment of the fastener shows an Allen head stud similarly
slotted.

Tool for removing threaded fastener

A tool for removing threaded fasteners includes a threaded bracket and a remover having a driver
and an engager. The driver has a first threaded section engage to the bracket and a second threaded
section of larger pitch thread engaged to the engager. A stop limits relative rotation between the
driver and engager. The intersection of the threads between the driver and bracket and the driver and
engager forcibly engages the engager into the threaded article to be removed and maintains
engaging pressure against it as the driver is initially backed out of the bracket.

A stripped hex head bolt can be
removed using the above two methods as well.
You can also try forcing a slightly larger hex driver
into the stripped bolt, for example a 1/16" hex
driver works well in stripped out 1.5mm bolts.

As a last resort with stripped bolts and screws, you
can choose to drill/cut the head off the fastener and
then remove the component it was attached to. This
should leave some amount of the threaded portion
of the bolt exposed. Use a set of Vice Grips™ (aka
locking pliers) to grab this portion and slowly back it
out.

So you broke off a screw...
Sometimes the entire head of a fastener will break
off, leaving the threaded portion completely inside
the component. What are you to do in this
situation?

Do you just throw away the part and buy a new

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 2

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

certainly an option, and for cheaper parts it may even be
the best solution. However, if you want to try and reuse the
existing part, there are ways to remove the bolt.

Removal Method One: The screw extractor set or left-
handed drill bit
The most common tool for removing broken bolts is called
a screw extractor or "easy out". A screw extractor is
basically reverse threaded cone that is used to grab the
bolt from the inside and back it out. I have found that the
Alden Micro Drill-Out extractor set works quite well for the
common M3 to M5 sized bolts on most model helicopters.
It can be found at Sears, Ace, or other hardware stores.

To use an extractor you must first drill a hole in the center of
the broken bolt. The size of the hole made will depend on
the size of the extractor used. This step is very crucial, the
hole must be well centered and straight down without
removing too much of the bolt material. Once the hole is
made, insert the extractor into the hole and slowly turn it
counter-clockwise to loosen the bolt. Add some heat to
loosen any thread lock if needed.

You must be very careful using an extractor. They are made
of very hard metal and can be quite brittle. Turn slowly and
keep the extractor straight, since any side-to-side pressure
could break it. If the bolt will not budge with moderate
pressure do not force it. If you break the extractor off inside
the bolt, you will probably have to replace the affected part
entirely.

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 3

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

There are also a number of left-handed drill bits out there
that combine the drilling and extracting tools. You turn the
bit counterclockwise into the center of the bolt with your
drill. As it drills into the material, the bit grabs the bolt and
starts to back it out. I have never personally been able to
remove a fastener with just a left-handed drill bit, but have
talked with others that have had success with them.

Removal Method Two: JB Weld
If you do not have an extractor set, or if the bolt is in an area
where drilling into it may not be feasible, you can try the JB
Weld method. Simply take some JB Weld and glue the end of
a new bolt to the broken off portion left in the component. Be
sure to allow the JB Weld to touch only the bolts, wipe it off
the threads or other areas. Set the part aside to dry overnight.
Once it is dry, you can use a hex driver to remove the joined
bolts. This method only works well on bolts that are not too
tight.

Removal Method Three: The Rotary Tool and screwdriver
This is the fast and dirty method of removing a broken off
fastener. Take a rotary tool cutoff wheel and grind it down until
the wheel is very small in diameter, the smaller the better in
the case of a M3 bolt. Now, take that small cutting wheel and
cut a slot right into the top middle of the broken fastener. With
this method, you may end up cutting into the component a
little bit, so only do this where the loss of a little material won't
affect the performance of the part. Use a small slotted
screwdriver to remove the bolt from the hole. Again, apply
heat if needed to free the part first.

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 4

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

If you find yourself with a broken bolt still stuck in your heli
after trying the above methods, you have a few more options.
You could just trash the part, pat yourself on the back for the
effort, and buy a new one. If it's an expensive part you could
take it to a machine shop to have the fastener removed
professionally. As a third option, drill the entire bolt out and
install a Helicoil thread repair kit that creates a new set of
threads for a bolt to be fastened to.

Even better than any of the above methods is doing what you
can to minimize the chances of having a broken fastener in
the first place.

Avoiding stripped screws and bolts is easy - use the proper
tools. Most of the Phillips screws found on model helicopters
are not standard Phillips design; they are manufactured to
the JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) specifications. Get
yourself a good set of JIS screwdrivers and you will be
amazed by how well they fit.

Hex wrenches vary greatly in their true sizes and quality. Buy
a good set of wrenches that fit tightly into the bolts, you do
not want a lot of play in-between the wrench and bolt. A
tightly fitting set of wrenches greatly minimizes the chances
of stripping bolts out.

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 5

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

To avoid breaking bolts off remember these four rules

1. Only tighten things as tight as they need to be to do their job, any more than
That stresses the fastener.

2. If you question the quality of any fastener, replace it.
3. Anytime you crash, check out all the fasteners on the helicopter. Even a slight bend in a bolt

greatly weakens it.
4. And last, use the proper type of thread lock for each joint and only use a small amount.

Remember that thread lock, in general, is not used to hold the components together; it simply
is there to keep the fasteners from backing out.

Conclusion

Chances are that at some point in your journey you will run into a broken fastener that
needs extracting. With a little patience and care, you can get these stubborn bolts to
break free from your model without causing any damage. While a broken bolt is never a
welcome experience, with the right tools and methods you can make short work of the
repair job and get your model back into the air. See you at the field

*******End******

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 6

Worksheet 1.2.3 : Measuring current, Voltage And Resistance

3. 1. 6 Worksheet

Learning outcomes:

3 “Performed Bench work” (Remove damage/broken threaded fastener)

Learning Activity:
3.3 “Identify different Types of Extractor its uses and application”

A. TRUE OR FALSE. Write T if the statement is correct and write F if the
statement is wrong. Write the answer on the space
provided before each number.

__________ 1. When you have a screw head or stripped or broken head off bolt,
It is impossible to remove without an easy out tools?

___________ 2. Using a set of vise grip consider as the best way in removing a
broken bolt.

___________ 3. To use an extractor you must first drill a hole in the center of the
broken bolt.

___________ 4. In the absence of screw extractor JB weld method is applicable
to use as a replacement for extracting damage thread.

___________ 5. Rotary tool and the screw driver considered the fast and dirty
method of removing broken off fastener.

__________ 6. Heli coil thread repair kit creates a new set of thread for a bolt
to be fastened.

B. ESSAY TYPE:

1. How to avoid breakings bolts off?
2. Discuss the 3 methods or ways how to remove the broken bolts.
3. State the 3 elements of an screw extractor. Discuss each.

Code No. ***End** Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307
Servicing Starting System Nov. 28, 2003 Mar 01, 2006 1

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

3.1.7 Information Sheet
Learning outcomes:
3 “ Performed Bench work “ (Repair damage thread)
Learning Activity:
3.4 “Identify different types of Tap and die and other tools, its uses and applications”

Different Bench work operation

4. Repair damage thread

INTRODUCTION:

With all of the reproduction parts available, vehicle restoration has become an
R&R (remove and replace) operation. By contrast, old-time restorers of rare and early vehicles
have always restored vehicles by refinishing the worn, tattered and crumpled parts that came
on the vehicle. While most modern day restoration enthusiasts don't have the equipment and
the skills to renew everything, repairing a part with stripped or crossed threads or a part with a
broken bolt is a fairly easy. And although new reproduction parts may look inviting, the more
original parts you have on your car, the more desirable it is.

The Strips
We are going to discuss two types
of thread problems and repairs plus
some damaged thread prevention.
The most common problem a
restorer or mechanic faces is
stripped or damaged threads in a
bolt hole. If the threads are not
completely destroyed you can try
"chasing" the threads with a
thread-chasing tap. This may realign
the threads so that the bolt can be
threaded in place. A thread chaser
is essentially a slightly undersized
tap that will clean threads without
removing any metal. It should be
used on any old parts where bolt
torque is critical such as head
boltholes in an engine block.

Thread repair

When thread damage is too severe to be saved with a thread chaser, you can completely
restore the threads with new thread inserts. They will provide a completely new threaded hole
(with strong steel threads) that accepts the original size bolt. There are several brands of thread

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003 Mar 01, 2006 1

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

inserts on the market and one of the most popular is by Heli Coil. The way they work is
to drill the damaged thread hole out, tap it with a larger tap, screw in the new thread
insert and you have a totally repaired bolthole that is stronger than the original. In fact,
many engine builders and parts manufacturers install steel thread inserts in all of their
aluminum components just for the added holding power.

The Breaks
The second most common (and more difficult) problem is a broken bolt in a part.
Bolts break for a couple of reasons—over-tightening is common, and bolts that have
rusted or corroded in place is another. Either way, the fix is to drill the center of the bolt
and use an Easy Out bolt remover. You must take care to drill the center of the bolt, not
hitting the threads. If the Easy Out will not back the bolt out, it's time to apply some
heat with a torch to the surrounding bolt hole area. Penetrating fluid and several
attempts with the torch may be necessary to dislodge the remains of the bolt. Be
patient! Do not break the Easy Out off by applying too much force. The Easy Out tool is
hardened and is virtually impossible to drill out of the bolt.

The Outs
The final thread repair is for external (male) threads such as those you might find on
shift or throttle linkage. Thread chasers are also available for these threads. They are
essentially undersized dies that clean and straighten threads without removing any
metal. It's a good idea if the threads have been banged up or partially cross-threaded
to chase the threads before you install a nut or rod end.

Here is a typical stripped out bolthole in an
engine block. The bolt felt spongy when being
torqued then finally let go taking the threads in
the block with it. The block can be easily
repaired with a thread insert kit.

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 2

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

Sometimes the head of a screw becomes worn and
becomes difficult to remove due to slippage between the
screw head and the screwdriver bit. This how-to discusses
how to get these difficult-to-remove screws out of whatever
it is that they've gotten stuck in.

TOOLS USED FOR REPAIR A DAMAGE THREADED BOLT

TAP AND DIE ( REPAIRING THREAD)
A tap is a little like a bolt, and a die is a little like a nut,
except with both tools the threads have edges to cut
metal. Both taps and dies come in many diameter sizes.
There are also thread types such as standard fine and
coarse, and metric. If your plan is to simply clean up
minor damage, you need to assure you use the correct
size and type. You'll find a thread gage helpful in
determining what you need. Rethreading tools may be
more appropriate if the damage is minor. These are very
similar in appearance to a cutting tap or die, but are meant for simply cleaning up damaged threads.

To use a tap, as stated before, drill out the hole to clean
out the damaged material. The size hole will depend
upon the design of the material and the available bolts
that will match the design. The size hole is also
determined by the recommendations of the tap
manufacturer. If the hole is drilled too large, the threads
will be shallow and strip out easily. If the hole is drilled too
small, the tap can easily break because it's trying to cut
out too much material.

Although it is possible to use a regular adjustable wrench
to turn the tap, it's highly recommended to use a

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 3

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

tap wrench. Tap wrenches are a T type handle that allow
you to turn the tap from each side instead of from one side
as you would with an adjustable wrench. When turning from
both sides, apply a smooth symmetrical torque to minimize
the chance of breading the tap in the hole. Removal of a
broken tap is a task well worth avoiding, so the cost of a tap
wrench is something you should strongly consider.

Once the hole is drilled and tap selected, lubricate both the hole and the tap with cutting oil. As you
turn the tap, chips of metal will form. Rotate the tap 1/4 to 1/2 turn, then back it off 1/2 to 3/4 turn to
break off the chips. Continue until this back and forth turning until the tap turns freely through the
entire hole, or until it bottoms out in a blind hole. If a blind hole, once the tool bottoms out use a
bottom tap of the same size to cut the threads to the bottom
of the hole.

Using a die to cut threads on the outside of
metal is much easier. Again, make sure the outside diameter
of the material matches the die manufacturer's
recommendations so you get threads that are deep enough
but not so deep as to make cutting the threads difficult. Use
cutting oil and a die handle to make the cut. Although the risk
of breaking the die is less when using an adjustable wrench
than it is on a tap, it's still recommended to use a proper die
wrench. The smooth symmetrical torque provided by a die
wrench makes getting straight threads much easier. Begin by
using a file or grinder to put a small chamfer on the end of the material. this makes starting the die
much easier. As with a tap, turn the die back and forth to break up the chips.

How to make repair a damage thread

The first step for installing thread inserts is to drill the
bolthole oversized for tapping. The drill size is listed
on the package. Here a drill block is used to keep the
newly drilled hole straight (perpendicular to the block
surface).

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 4

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

The second method of repairing damaged threads,
and the method used primarily when repairing inside
threads, is to drill out the hole and install an insert.
One common type is called a Helicoil. A Helicoil is a
spiral of hardened metal sort of like a set of threads
with neither hole nor bolt. To use a Helicoil, drill out a
hole, tap it to the proper size for the Helicoil, apply
the Helicoil to the insertion tool, then simply screw it
into the hole. They are quite simple to use, and in
many cases the Helicoil is a harder metal than the
original threads so it's unlikely to strip out as easily.

The same drill block is used to guide the tap. Be sure to
keep the tap coated with cutting oil and to continually
back the tap up to clear the metal chips from the cutting
surfaces

Screw the thread insert all the way onto the installation
tool. The tang on the bottom of the thread insert should
be engaged on the end of the tool. This tang is notched
so that it can be broken off for longer bolts to pass
through. Coat the thread insert with a thread-locking
compound and screw it into the newly tapped threads
until it is flush with the sealing surface. We actually
screwed ours in slightly further because the deck needs
to be resurfaced to repair the fracture around this
bolthole. e insert

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 5

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

Coat the thread insert with a thread-locking
compound and screw it into the newly tapped
threads until it is flush with the sealing surface. We
actually screwed ours in slightly further because the
deck needs to be resurfaced to repair the fracture
around this bolt hole

The finished thread repair is actually stronger than
the original threads. The head bolt will be steel
against steel (instead of steel against cast iron) and
the thread surface area that the new insert resides
in is larger than the original tapped bolt hole.

We intentionally broke off this head bolt to simulate
your worst nightmare. Removing a broken bolt is
much more difficult than restoring damaged threads,
but with the proper tools and lots of patience it can
be done.

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 6

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

The first step is to drill the center of the broken bolt to
accept the appropriate size bolt extractor. Care must
be taken to drill exactly in the center of the bolt so as
not to damage the threads in the block.

Here's the trophy bolt. As you can see, the hole we
drilled wasn't exactly centered in the bolt but the
extractor still did its job.

Any restorer needs to have a full set of taps and dies.
They're not that expensive and are something you'll
use for years to come. Thread chasers such as these
available from ARP can be purchased one at a time as
needed.

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 7

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

This is a graphic example of why you should use a
thread chaser instead of a tap or die to clean
threads. These two ARP head bolts actually have
rolled threads. Running a normal die over the bolt
on the right removed a lot of metal, weakening the
strength of the bolt

---------- E N D ------------

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 8

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 9

Worksheet 1.2.3 : Measuring current, Voltage And Resistance

3. 2. 0 Worksheet

Learning outcomes:

3 “Performed Bench work” (Scrape and hone holes)

Learning Activity:
3.5 “Identify different Types of extractors and hone holes, its uses and application”

A. MULTIPLE CHOICE. Select the correct answer. Write the letter of the correct
answer on the blank provided before each number.

__________ 1. The operation that employed to produce and true bearing surfaces
with high spot reduce to minimum.
a. Hand chipping
b. Hand scraping
c. Extracting
d. Filing

___________ 2. A kind of scraper used to scrape a flat surfaces.
a. Hook scraper
b. Flat scraper
c. Three-square scraper
d. Bull-nose scraper

___________ 3. A kind of scraper used to scrape curved surfaces edge.
a. Hook scraper
b. Flat scraper
c. Three-square scraper
d. Bull-nose scraper

____________ 4. A kind of scraper used to scrape or debur edges of accurate
holes.
a. Hook scraper
b. Three-square scraper
c. Flat scraper
d. Bull-nose scraper

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307
Nov. 28, 2003 Mar 01, 2006 1

Worksheet 1.2.3 : Measuring current, Voltage And Resistance

___________ 5. A kind of scraper used to scrape also flat surfaces where
a flat surfaces cannot be and also used for finishing
surface.
a. Hook scraper
b. Three-square scraper
c. Flat scraper
d. Bull-nose scraper

B. ESSAY TYPE:
1. What is a Hand scraping?
2. What is the most important part of a Hand scraper? Explain.
3. How to scrape a flat surface? State the procedures.
4. List all the different types of a scraper? Give each uses.
5. How to sharpen a scraper?

**** End ****

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307
Nov. 28, 2003 Mar 01, 2006 2

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

3.1.9 - Information Sheet
Learning outcomes:
3 Performed bench Work “ (Scrape and honing holes)
Learning Activity:
3.5 “Identify different Types of Scraper , Hone holes, its Uses and Application

5. Scrape and Hone holes

Hand scraping

• Hand finishing process
• Used on flat or curved surfaces
• Improves degree of fit
• Produces flat, smooth finish
• Removes minute amount of

metal

Scraper & scraping 2

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 1

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

HAND SCRAPING:

This operation is employed to produce and true bearing surfaces
with high spots reduced to a minimum. Such surfaces cannot be obtained in the
milling machine, shaper, or planer. Hand filing of flat surfaces, even though it is
performed by an experienced mechanic, always leave some high spots on the
surface of the work.

SCRAPING FLAT SURFACES:

Hand scraping of flat surfaces involves locating the high spots and
removing these high spots. To perform the first step, a surface plate or straight
edge. Its flat edge has been scraped to form a true surface, that is, no high spots
can be detected. Under ordinary circumstances, either a straight edge or a
surface plate is used for a standard.

To locate high spots on the work,
cover the true surface of the standard
with a thin coating or either Venetian
red or Prussian blue. Then, carefully
place the true surface of the standard
on the surface to be scraped

(or vice versa or which ever is more
convenient) , and with light pressure
rub it on the work back and forth,

coupled with a rotary motion. Straight- edge

Remember at no time should the object be rubbed far from its original position.
When is the standard is removed, colored spots will appear on the work. These
colored spots indicate high spots on the work.

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 2

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

The next step is the removal of these
high spots by scraping. The important part
of a scraper is its end. When it becomes
dull, it may be sharpened on a grinder and
then oilstoned. To remove the colored high
spots, the scraper is held at an angle to the
surface of the work and pushed forward .To
remove the various colored spots, the
scraper is pushed in the same direction for
each spot. This first operation is called
“rough scraping.”

Flat scraper

After rough scraping, the surfaces of the work and standard of marking paint. The
standard again is placed on the work and should be cleaned, and the latter again covered with
a thin coating moved as before. High spot still remaining on the work are thus marked, and
they are scraped in one direction. Remember, scrape at right angles to the direction of the
roughing operation. T his procedure is repeated until the entire surface of the work is uniformly
covered with the markings.

Hand Scrapers

Flat surfaces Curved surfaces
Flat Scraper
Hook Scraper Half-round
Three-square
Bull-nose

Scraper & scraping 3

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 3

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

Flat Scraper

• Use: • Note:

– Commonly used for – end of blade
flat surfaces slightly curved

– scraping only at
narrow centre area

Scraper & scraping 4

Hook Scraper

• Use: • Note:

– Commonly used for – end of blade is bent

flat surfaces at an angle

– Where a flat

scraper cannot be

used

– Also for finishing

work

Scraper & scraping 5

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 4

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

Three-square Scraper

• Use: • Note:

– for curved surfaces – triangular in section
– small diameter – tapers to a sharp

holes point
– debur edges of – cutting edge is

accurate holes moved at right angles
to its length

Scraper & scraping 6

Bull-nose Scraper

• Note:

– rectangular body
with disc edge

• Use:

– Curved surfaces

Scraper & scraping 7

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 5

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

Selecting Flat Scraper

Scraper & scraping 8

TESTING A FLAT SURFACE ON THE SURFACE TABLE

a. Clean surface table
b. Coat evenly with marking compound

(Prussian blue or red lead mixed with oil)
c. Debur edges of workpiece and clean workpiece
d. Place workpiece upside down on the table surface

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 6

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

Testing a flat surface on the
Surface Table (cont’d)

• Move work piece in circular motion
• Remove and study marked patches

– Patches indicated high points

High points

Scraper & scraping 10

SHARPENING A FLAT SCRAPER

a. Grinding

 Avoid overheating the scraper
 Use wet wheel grinding if possible
 Use large diameter grinding wheel
 Use fine grain soft-grade aluminum oxide

b. Honing

 To remove grinding marks
 Use aluminum oxide oil stone with kerosene

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 7

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

HINTS ON SCRAPING:

a. Do not allow any oil, not even your fingers which are naturally
oily, to touch the surface being scraped.

b. Until the surface is substantially true it is necessary, to
accomplish anything, to scrape hard. As the spots begin to
show evenly over the surface, ease up on the chip.

c. Dipping the scraper occasionally in turpentine (or water) will
help it to cut easier and better.

d. When roughing, especially, try to keep the cuts about square in
shape and cross them in succeeding courses. This will help to
make the marking more easily distinguishable.

e. The best way to apply the paint is with a rag swab or by hand.
Apply it more generously when roughing than when finishing.

f. Be extremely careful that no dirt gets on the surface plate and
that none remains on the work when being tested. Keep the
paint box covered.

g. Use the whole plate-not the one spot.
h. Keep the scraper sharp or it will scratch . Scratches spoil a

scraped surface.
i. Do not drop a scraper as they are brittle and easily chipped.
j. Cover cutting edge with rubber tube or leather sheath.
k. Grease body if scraper is to be stored for a long time.

Performed Scraping Operation:

Hand scraping

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 8

Information Sheet 1.1.1 : Components and Functions of the Starting System

Honing

is an abrasive machining process that produces a precision surface
on a metal workpiece by scrubbing an abrasive stone against it
along a controlled path. Honing is primarily used to improve the
geometric form of a surface, but may also improve the
surface texture.

Honing Tools:

Honing tools

Super abrasives and hone head for cylinders.

Honing stone

Honing uses a special tool, called a honing stone or a hone,
to achieve a precision surface. The hone is a composed of
abrasive grains that are bound together with an adhesive.

Code No. Servicing Starting System Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
ALT723307 Aug 15, 2003
Mar 01, 2006 9