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LandRoving Edition 122 - December 2016

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Published by Land Rover Owners Club of Southern Africa, 2017-08-25 06:23:32

Landroving 122

LandRoving Edition 122 - December 2016

Keywords: Land Rover,4x4

EDITION 122 - SUMMER 2016
THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF THE LAND ROVER

OWNERS
CLUB OF SOUTHERN AFRICA

1

2

Visit: www.lroc.org.za or Telephone: 062 926 3649

The official magazine of the Land Rover Owners Club of Southern Africa

IN THIS ISSUE:

From the Editor Page 5

Chairman’s Desk Page 6

Loskop away weekend Page 8

Outing to Loskop Dam Nature Reserve Page 10

LROC Recovery Series - using a hi-lift jack Page 12

Angola - Mission accomplished Page 20

Doodsakker Page 26

Aspects of Angola Page 30

The children of Angola Page 34

Memories of the war in Angola Page 36

VHF Handheld radios Page 40

Border crossings - do’s and don’ts Page 42

Faces of Namibia Page 46

Christmas weekend - Rust de Winter Page 54

Medics for the bush Page 58

Convoys, Queues and Conflict Page 65

CODE OF CONDUCT 3
Abide by the rules, constitution, conservation code and code of conduct of the LROC.

Be a considerate member.
Drive responsibly.

Assist fellow members.
Promote the safe and responsible use of Land Rovers.
Respect rules in all Parks, Conservation areas, Public and Private land.
Maintain your vehicle in a sound on and off-road condition.

Do not litter.

TO ADVERTISE IN LANDROVING PLEASE CONTACT THE CLUB ADMINISTRATOR
@ [email protected]
DISTRIBUTION: Posted to LROC members, supplied free of charge to advertising Land Rover
dealerships, Parts suppliers, Workshops and Accessory Outlets.
COVER: Jan Beukes’ Defender 110 Hardtop; Photo taken North of Luanda, Angola, September 2016
LEGAL SMALL PRINT:
The opinions expressed in LANDROVING do not necessarily reflect those of the Land Rover
Owners Club of Southern Africa, it’s Committee or members. No responsibility is accepted for any
damages or injuries which may arise therefrom or from Advertisers adverts

BECOME A MEMBER OF THE LROC
Visit: www.lroc.org.za or call 062 926 3649

Chairman: Ansie Blignaut([email protected])
Vice Chairman: Bruce Richards ([email protected])
Secretary: Malcolm Timberlake ([email protected])
Treasurer: Alex van der Horst ([email protected])
Editor: Alida Timberlake ([email protected])
Clerk of Events: Leon de Beer ([email protected])
Driver Trainer: Brendon Lowe ([email protected])
Trophy Secretary: Lizette Beard ([email protected])
Quartermaster: Jacqui Stroebel ([email protected])
Membership Secretary: Dirk Uys ([email protected])
PRO Jacques Beard ([email protected])
Radio Officer: Pieter Erasmus ([email protected])
Club Administrator: Madeleine Zwaneveld ([email protected])

Join one of our Chapters:
Border Chapter (East London and surrounds): Kevin Gravett - [email protected]
Eden Chapter (Garden Route and Little Karoo): Des White - [email protected]
Lowveld Chapter (Nelspruit and surrounds): Lorraine Dicker - [email protected]
Port Elizabeth Chapter (Port Elizabeth area): Paul Foster - [email protected]
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FROM THE
EDITOR

Alida Timberlake

As another year draws to a close, it way of life, one realises what
brings one to a time of reflection. In privileged lives we lead.
the midst of the economic, social and May we continue to be intrepid
political shenanigans of 2016, many explorers inspiring one another with
members of our club have once again wonderful trip reports and fireside
experienced the best of South Africa stories. 
and its neighbouring countries.  Christmas decorations appearing
We read with regularity of refugees in some shops in September was
losing their lives in an attempt to more than irritating; time passes
attain what we regard as our right - sufficiently speedily without
a safe place to live, and that illusive having to wish away a quarter of a
thing called happiness. year in this way! Our annual
As Land Rover owners, we have the Christmas weekend at Rust de
privilege of crossing borders Winter was timed a little more
(sometimes experiencing minor appropriately (read all about it on
irritation and frustration – see page 54) and saw a somewhat sweaty
Ansie’s helpful article on page 42 on Santa arrive in luxury - his ‘sled’
how to handle these), but, largely towed by a Disco 4. Santa’s never had
without fear, to experience it so good!
something of the way ‘the other side’ May you experience true joy as
lives - albeit from a distance. The you share precious time with family
people we encounter there appear over the Christmas period 
generally content, if not happy, but celebrating the year that was. 
if one takes the time and trouble to Alida
interact with them and their country,
getting to know the history and the 5

CHAIRMAN’S DESK

I cannot believe that another year is the year. Events range from training,
almost gone. But what a year it has trials, technical days, evenings out
been! If anyone had told me the same to one day, weekend and long trips.
time last year that I would become I found that the events allocated to
the Chairman of the LROC I would me forced us to break away, to forget
have told them in no uncertain about the day-to-day worries and to
terms that they were heading for the meet people we would never have
looney bin. Just goes to show that met in our normal daily lives.
one should never say never...
You will find in this issue feedback
This has been a hectic year for the from various club members on
Blignauts. Being the Chairperson is events recently attended. Hopefully
not always easy, but I cannot imagine they will entice you to look with
life without the club. My dream for new eyes and a changed attitude at
every member is to realise what they planned events for 2017.
can get from the club. It is way too
easy to find excuses for not going A group of members was lucky
on organised trips - life has become enough to go to Angola – read all
so busy that, even if one has an about their exploits, and some
open weekend, you just want to do interesting facts about Angola should
nothing. But it is exactly there where you wish to do something similar.
the root of the problem lies – staying We also have an interesting trip
at home does not afford you the rest report on Namibia. Others, like me
you so eagerly crave. Why else do and my family, could not go on long
you thing people go away for trips this year, so had to settle for
holidays? weekend trips, the latest one being
Being part of the committee forces the annual Loskop away weekend.
one to take part in events, as each What an experience! We were
committee member is responsible entertained by the Friends of Loskop
6 for arranging several events during (read about it in the Loskop away

weekend and the outing to Loskop in events, those who have put in a
Dam Nature Reserve articles). We lot of work to ensure the club runs
met the Friends of Loskop, a bunch smoothly and those who have
of people doing something worth- contributed time and knowledge in
while for the environment and future writing about their adventures and
generations. We will keep in touch who provided tips and lessons learnt
with them and hope to get involved in our magazine. You make the club
in one of their work projects. what it is.
Our Christmas weekend proved to My family and I wish you all a
be as successful as always - if you peaceful Christmas and a 2017 full
weren’t there, you missed out big of adventures and trips with like-
time! minded people!
I want to take the opportunity to I hope we meet you all somewhere
thank everyone who has taken part around the campfire!

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LOSKOP AWAY WEEKEND - 21-23 OCTOBER

By Ansie Blignaut

The Club has been paying Seekoeigat The Loskop Dam Nature Reserve is
an annual visit since 2003. This year’s situated in Mpumalanga, 60km north
outing was the largest yet with 20 of Middelburg and 30km south of
vehicles and more than 50 Groblersdal and is adjacent to the
visitors booked and signed in by Loskop Dam, an artificial lake with a
Friday evening. Seekoeigat is a total water surface of approximately
beautiful grassed campsite on the 2 350 hectares. The Loskop Dam
banks of the Olifant’s river. wall was built in the 1930s across
a natural gorge. It is approximately
20km long and at places as deep as
54m. The reserve was proclaimed in
the 1950s and has increased over the
years to a total of 23 000 hectares.

There are close to 70 species of
mammals on the reserve, three of
which belong to the Big Five: White
Rhino, Leopard and Buffalo. Loskop
Dam Nature Reserve is under the
This year Attie Smit, the organiser of management of Mpumalanga
the weekend decided to treat the club Tourism and Parks Agency.
members with a visit to the Loskop
Dam Nature Reserve on the Saturday This brings us to the Friends of
under the guidance of the Friends of Loskop. It is a voluntary
Loskop (FOL). association associated with the

8

Wildlife and Environment Society of • Meetings with the parks
South Africa (WESSA) and a management to make an
registered non-profit organisation. inventory of where and what
It is the aim of Friends of Loskop to assistance can be given.
assist the Mpumalanga Tourism and
Parks Agency as much as possible, • Upgrading of existing facilities
to preserve this beautiful piece of and planning of new facilities in
nature for future generations. Their the park, by which people visiting
activities include the following: the park can enjoy the beauty of
• Working parties with interested the reserve even more.

members and members of the We were privileged to be
public: clean ups, erosion control accommodated by Mr. Klaas Modau,
programs etc. reserve manager, and to be
• Environmental awareness days accompanied by Ross Lesser and all
organised for school classes, day the members of Friends of Loskop.
visits to the reserve with bush Find a description of the day spent
walks, lectures and awareness with the Friends of Loskop in the
programs for the school youths. next article.

9

OUTING TO LOSKOP DAM NATURE
RESERVE

By Ross Lesser (Chairperson: Friends of Loskop)

On 22 October 2016 LROC and FOL On the way some of the FOL
(Friends of Loskop) finally got to members stopped to cut down some
spend a day together in the Loskop Sesbania Grandiflora.
Dam Nature Reserve.
After much communication between
the groups the day finally dawned.
The group was split into two for the
1st session.
We started the morning with a
visit to the black-footed cat (Africa’s
smallest wild cat) and the Southern
Ground-Hornbill breeding projects.
Both these animals are endangered
and their habitats are declining very
quickly.

After a quick break we set off to the This is a bush indigenous from
picnic spot. One group went via Malaysia through to North America.
Langberg (over the mountain) and It grows where there is good soil and
the other group via Blesbok vlakte. a hot, humid temperature. The plant
After a short stop at the picnic spot is also known as Australian
the trek started to Kanongat; this corkwood tree, flamingo bill,
was a long drive through the very grandiflora, sesban, swamp pea, tiger
dry bush with some rocky road in tongue, scarlet wistaria-tree,
between. vegetable-hummingbird, West Indian
pea and white dragon tree.
10 Unfortunately it has become an
invader in South Africa and has to be
eradicated.

We arrived at Kanongat safely and
after a short break headed, on foot, to
see this much-speculated about spot.

After a short talk from the FOL
chairman and with the temperature
at 34 degrees, it was time to go home.
It was another 40 minute drive from
Kanongat to Hondekraal gate where
the route ended with a meandering
cement path taking us back to the top
of the escarpment.

No one really knows where the name A special thanks goes
originates from, but lore has it that to Attie for getting the
the dark pool got its name because ball rolling in getting
Boer commandos sank their cannons the two groups
into it to prevent them falling into together.
the hands of the pursuing British.
It was spectacular to see the clear
water and fish in the hole.

11

LROC RECOVERY SERIES – USING A HI-LIFT JACK
By Brendon Lowe – LROC Driver trainer

If you’ve recently attended our aspects is to keep the moving parts
Module 3: Recovery Training well lubricated, especially the two
session, you will be aware that we pins. This will ensure you get many
spend some time explaining how to years of service from it, and that it
use a hi-lift jack safely and doesn’t let you down when you need
demonstrate it being used to lift a it to work. Purchase a jack bag to
vehicle. The hi-lift jack is a very keep it clean and operational and
versatile piece of equipment and always mount your jack on an easily
many swear by it when it comes to accessible place.
recovering a stranded vehicle,
especially if there are no other
vehicles around or no-one to hook
your winch to…

After the winch, this is by far the
most versatile part of your recovery
arsenal and much, much cheaper.
There are many cheap imitations
available on the market but should
you be serious about safety, you will
choose the “Hi-Lift” Trademark
(Made in USA). With this product
your safety is guaranteed (as long
as you use it correctly) and backup
service and spares are available in SA.
The hi-lift jack can lift 2114kgs and
has been load tested to 3175kg.

Different lengths of shafts are also
available in South Africa. Choose the
right one for your application,
bearing in mind it needs to be
mounted somewhere on your vehicle.
The jack is very rugged and can
withstand most of the abuse thrown
at it. One of the most important

12

13

HI-LIFT JACK ACCESSORIES
Here are some accessories which are
available to use with your hi-lift
jack:
Extension piece – This is an essential
item to make sure your jack is
working effectively and safely. The
extension piece is available from
most 4x4 accessory retailers and will
greatly reduce the risk of the jack
sliding out from under the vehicle,
causing potential damage and harm.
The extension piece is simply slid
over the footpiece and the locking
screw is used to secure it firmly in
place.

Due to the nature of the extension
piece being able to rotate inside the
jacking point ‘tube’, it can be used to
push the vehicle to one side out of
deep ruts once both wheels on the
same axle are lifted off the ground
and clear of the ruts. Be aware that
in this process the jack will pivot on
the jacking point causing the vehicle
to move to the side to clear the ruts.
Be aware that this method allows

14

the vehicle to be potentially unstable it is highly recommended that you
once both wheels are lifted off the use an authorised fitment centre to
ground and the moving jack could do this.
potentially damage the vehicle if not Base Plate – If you need to use your
positioned properly. Always test this jack in sand or mud, you may find
method on dry ground first to ensure that the standard foot piece supplied
you can do it safely before you need is too small to stabilise the jack on
to recover your vehicle in an the soft or slippery surface. In this
emergency. case a base plate can be purchased
which effectively increases the foot
piece surface area, making the jack
more stable. The plate has a ‘pocket’
to locate the foot piece to stop it from
sliding off the plate. These are also
available from many reputable 4x4
stores and can be made from steel or
re-inforced plastic.

The only drawback is that the
extension piece only works with the
female jacking points as supplied
standard on the Defender or they
need to be specifically mounted to a
firm surface on your vehicle. If you
need them mounted on your vehicle,

15

Buddy Lift – This is a very handy with your jack and the bead breaker
accessory to your hi-lift jack kit as it attached to your jack foot piece.
can be used to lift the wheel directly Insert the extension piece in the
off the ground without using jacking point on your vehicle and
special jacking points. The advantage mount the bead breaker to the foot
of the buddy lift is it lifts the wheel piece.
directly, therefore one does not need Hi-lift jack as Winch – If your
to overcome the suspension travel vehicle is not fitted with an electric
before the wheel lifts off the ground winch, the last method is to use your
– this makes it much easier to place hi-lift jack as a manual winch. This
something under the wheel to enable method is very time consuming and
improved traction when self- requires some effort and extra kit,
recovering a vehicle. Just be aware but is very effective. For this exercise
that this device cannot be used to you will ideally need the hi-lift jack
change the wheel – for obvious winching kit (See picture), but you
reasons! can also come-by using a length of
Bead Breakers – The next idea is chain, shackles and pull-straps.
very handy if you find yourself in the
bundu far away
from your local
tyre shop and
have to repair
the tyre on your
own. The biggest
challenge is to
break the tyre
bead off the rim.
16 This can be done

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adjustments as small as one micron to ensure a perfect fit and performance.
That’s why when you choose Genuine Parts for your Land Rover, you’re choosing
parts that have been expertly engineered using the same tools and equipment
that built your Land Rover itself. That’s why not opting for Genuine Parts could
jeopardise your vehicle’s warranty and future value.
Every part comes with the peace of mind of a 12 month unlimited kilometre
warranty when fitted by an authorised retailer, or 6 months when you get it over
the counter.
So keep planning your adventures with complete peace of mind.
Visit an Authorised Service centre or landrovergenuineparts.co.za for details.

Land Rover West Rand
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010 593 9463
westrand.landrover.co.za

T’s & C’s apply.

As you will only winch about 1m at a Some golden rules when using a
time, you must be able to shorten the hi-lift jack:
rope or strap after the jack reaches
the maximum point. You then need • Maintain the jack frequently by
to anchor the vehicle, reset the jack properly lubricating the locking
to the bottom and repeat the process pins
until the vehicle has been recovered.
Remember to keep safety in mind at • Check for broken springs on the
all times. locking pins – this could cause
the pins to fail to engage/
Jaws-of-Life – The hi-lift jack disengage smoothly
can even be used as a “Jaws-of-Life”
device if you get to an accident • Always chock the wheels
scene and remaining on the ground with
need to lift rocks before lifting the vehicle
the roof and apply the hand brake
of the
accident • Stabilise the jack correctly
vehicle to keeping the main shaft vertical
free the and if necessary use a base-plate
occupants.
• Never work under a vehicle
18 supported by the hi-lift jack,
always use a tripod to support the
weight

• Use both hands to operate the
jack and wear good quality
leather gloves

• Keep the handle in the upright
position when the jack is
unattended

• Keep your head out of the path of
the handle when jacking

• Continually assess the safety
aspects of the jacking situation,
never compromise on safety. If
necessary lower the vehicle again
to remove
any unsafe
condition
arising.

19

ANGOLA - MISSION ACCOMPLISHED
By Dave Morgan

Angola is a land of many contrasts the Kunene River towards Angola
with much to see and do and is a and I decided then that Angola was
fantastic place to visit. We spent the a place I wanted to visit. So when,
best part of three weeks there but earlier this year, the idea came up
only managed to explore the south to organise a long trip for the club,
west of Angola from Ruacana to Angola was the first venue that came
Luanda. For all who went it was an to mind. Although whilst in Angola
unforgettable experience. From my we did not get to Swartbooisdrift, we
side, as organiser I would like to did see a road sign to the drift!
cover some of the problems and In planning the trip, I had to take
hazards we encountered both in cognisance of the fact that Angola
getting to Angola and whilst we were has no tourism infrastructure, once
there. across the border you are on your
My desire to visit Angola stems own. There are no camp sites other
from some years back when we were than Flamingo Lodge, so bush
exploring northern Namibia and we camping is the only option; which
got to Swartbooisdrift on the way to means you have to be self-sufficient
Epupa. We stopped and looked over and trailers and campervans are not
recommended. Added to that if you
20 can’t speak Portuguese, language is
a problem. If you are going to travel
three to four days to get to Angola
and the same back, you need to
spend a respectable amount of time
there. Then there is the question of
safety: it is not recommended that
you camp just anywhere unless it is
somewhere considered to be mine
free like a quarry or a ploughed field.
The first steps were to decide on
suitable dates for the trip and to
acquire a guide as a trip into Angola
without a guide would not be viable.

Some research on the 4x4 Martin, our guide produced an
Community Forum led to my invitation letter for each of us along
coming up with the name of Martin with all sorts of other documents
le Roux. He lives in Grootfontein that he said we would need. Martin’s
and had served in the Angolan war. worth was beginning to show.
A look at the rough itinerary that However, getting a Yellow Fever
he supplied, ticked all the boxes and vaccination, if you haven’t had one
September was a good month for or have lost your yellow vaccination
him. We had our man. Subsequent card, and/or are over 60, proved to
to appointing Martin, the group got be less than easy as a yellow fever
together, agreed on an itinerary and vaccination is not recommended for
also agreed that no trailers or camper senior citizens. The same goes for
vans would be towed. As we got anyone approaching 60 who is sick.
closer to our departure the “no In both these cases the Travel Clinic
trailers” decision proved to be a will offer you an exemption letter.
contentious one, however, knowing Which is all well and good but it
what we know now, we believe it was means you are not protected against
the right one. Yellow Fever which was important
Planning for the trip started early on as there had recently been an
this year and the next important step outbreak of Yellow Fever in Angola.
was to organise our visas. As an This resulted in the first members of
Angolan visa is only valid for 60 our group pulling out.
days, we could not apply for our To apply for our visas, we were
visas until closer to the time so in the working on the basis that we could
interim those who intended to join apply directly at the Angolan
us spent time preparing other aspects Consulate of which there are two in
for the trip. Finally the time came Gauteng, one in Pretoria and one in
to apply for our visas and our plans Bruma. However, somewhere along
notched up a gear. the line the goal posts were moved
In applying for a visa for Angola, and now one has to apply online,
there are two things you must have: a making applying for a visa for
Yellow Fever vaccination and either Angola less straight forward as
proof of hotel bookings or an applying for a visa for the UK for
invitation letter from someone example. Also, no two consulates are
residing in Angola. As we were bush the same as we were to discover -
camping we obviously could not they all have different requirements.
produce proof of hotel bookings but Those of us who applied through
Bruma found it a relative breeze but 21

those of us who applied through as in the case of an accident your
Pretoria found it less so. driving licence is confiscated, you are
Unfortunately my nephew in Canada taken to a police station and whether
who had booked to join us as my you are innocent or not, money must
co-driver could not get his visa in change hands. That is exactly what
time and had to pull out. The happened to me at Lubango where a
Angolan Consulate in Ottawa was a vehicle collided with me whilst trying
total disaster and wanted documents to cut in front of me in heavy traffic.
that Martin had never heard of My driver’s licence was confiscated
before. and I had to drive to the nearest
So finally, early in the first week of (only?) police station. Despite
September, five vehicles and eight declaring my innocence and
club members headed for Ruacana to showing photos we had taken, it took
meet our guide. We had no trailers or four hours of negotiation, mostly in
camper vans and we were all stocked Portuguese and, finally, the payment
with kit and supplies so as to be of US$100 for me to “get out of jail”.
self-sufficient for as much of the time Roads in Angola have minimal
as possible. maintenance and in many cases have
After crossing the border at deteriorated beyond repair. Whether
Omahenene near Ruacana we headed they are dirt roads or tar roads there
north to pick up the so-called main is no sign of maintenance and often
road at Cahama. The road runs from you cannot tell the difference
the main border crossing at Santa between a dirt road and what should
Clara to Luanda. It was along the be a tar road. We in South Africa do
way that we were introduced to the not know what potholes are; in
perils of driving in Angola. This was Angola, all the so-called main roads
particularly pertinent since none of are full of potholes, often for very
us had third party insurance as it is long stretches at a time, and many
not readily available for Angola. I of these are potential axle-breakers.
believe it is available at Santa Clara There are two particularly potholed
but we didn’t cross there and the stretches on the way to Luanda which
border crossing we used did not offer are over a 100km in length. When
third party for sale. The advice we Tracks 4 Africa says a road is tar,
had been given was to make sure we ignore it and multiply your travel
didn’t hit anything or anybody! It time by at least two to be safe.
appears that third party insurance It is because of the uncertainty of
would not have helped much anyway the roads that Martin plotted

22

numerous suitable campsites along up) and various goods including
the way. Some he had obviously used livestock.
regularly while others he referred
to as Plan B – to be used only when Crash helmets are only required
the need arose. We had agreed on a for the driver of a motorbike which
daily 5 o’clock cut off time and if we serves as a taxi (passengers take their
weren’t going to make the 5 o’clock life in their own hands!). You don’t
cut off then Martin would leave us need a sign to tell you when you are
to scout for a suitable campsite. This getting close to a village as you can
happened to us twice, the first time tell by the number of motorbikes on
was when we were on a particularly the road. The motorbike drivers don’t
bad stretch of the road to Luanda necessarily follow the rules of the
and we were caught in a violent road (admittedly they have little
thunderstorm. It got so dark that choice on the potholed roads),
visibility was minimal and added to sometimes making them a hazard.
that, the rain filled up all the potholes They do, however, provide an
so that they became particularly excellent and economical means of
treacherous. Our speed was reduced transport
to a crawl. The second was towards Town driving is also hazardous.
the end of our trip, when we had
spent the day driving over alternately The traffic can be horrendous and 23
rocky and sandy roads and by 5:30 nobody seems to abide by the law.
had not reached the intended Again in comparison with South
campsite. The campsites that
Martin picked for us in these two
cases respectively, were a ploughed
field and a bush camp alongside an
airstrip. Both were land mine free
and the latter provided a beautiful
sunset and the evening calls of two
different nightjars.
The most popular means of transport
in Angola is a motorbike. For
anything up to 150cc you don’t need
a licence which means there are
motorbikes everywhere. Motorbikes
are not only used to get around on,
but also to carry people (often three

Africa, we should not complain. Our everything is in Portuguese so you
taxi drivers are tame compared to are never exactly sure what you are
their counterparts in Angola. buying. On several evenings the topic
Martin’s instructions to us when of conversation around the camp fire
driving in convoy in town was to was about what we were actually
keep close together to avoid eating. If you feel up to it you can buy
becoming too spread out. No matter cooked food at the markets along the
how hard we tried, we could not keep way. The plus is that it will be fresh,
close as vehicles cut in in front of you the down side is you may not know
no matter the size of the gap which exactly what you are eating. I had
is exactly what caused my accident some of the best slap chips ever that I
in Lubango. However, drivers were bought from a roadside market.
never aggressive and there seemed Bottled water is available and my
far more understanding; quick eye advice is to use it wherever possible.
contact decided right of way at There are lots of boreholes and wells
crossings where no stop signs or along the way from which they say
lights were evident. Taxis are clearly the water is safe to drink. If you do
visible (blue and white minivans) and use such water, make sure you treat
although they moved assertively, they it and if possible boil it. I learnt my
were far more law-abiding than here lesson the hard way...
in South Africa as they did not stop
unexpectedly or interrupt traffic flow.
Food supplies are not a problem
as most large towns have a
Shoprite Checkers, all of which are
well stocked, in some cases better
than in SA. But some items like fresh
meat, are packed differently and

Replenishing our water supplies

Before we left we were warned about
the numerous roadblocks where
we could spend hours whilst they
took down all our information. This
turned out not to be the case and,
although there were road blocks, in
Many choices of meat at the roadside markets most cases we were waved through
24

SMART LAND ROVER GEAR
FOR THE WORLD’S TOUGHEST ADVENTURES

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with a smile and a wave and we the beaches near Luanda the high
encountered no issues of fines or tide line is a line of litter. The
bribes. We were told by Martin that minefields are not as much of a
many of the guides had written to problem anymore as they have been
the government complaining about largely cleared where it matters. If
how inconvenient it was to be not cleared, the mines have been
continuously stopped, and that as a marked, but it is still advisable not
result things have changed for the to travel off the beaten track. As for
better. crime, Angola is relatively crime
Touring Angola is tough but is no free other than in major towns. On
different to touring most other occasion we camped close to villages
countries in Africa. Everybody was and roads without experiencing
polite, friendly and helpful. As I was any problems at all despite the
told in the beginning - Angola is the occasional presence of locals who
last unexplored country in Africa liked to ‘hover’ between our tents.
Visit Angola and you will see Africa If you are wanting a trip full of
as it was. Angola is dirty though: adventure, then Angola is the place
there is trash everywhere and on to go!

DOODSAKKER



By Neale Penman

Green Grass. An incongruous patch tenacity. There’s something else
of kweek in the middle of the strange about the campsite this
Angolan Namib desert. Rare morning - it’s quiet. Normally by
vegetation in a landscape of pure 5h30 the morning routines would be
sand dunes. It’s the sight that greets well underway but today there’s an
me as I emerge from my roof top tent air of relaxation in our sheltered
in the early morning and I have to hollow a few kilometres from the
marvel at its sheer strange west coast sea.

26

We’re waiting. Waiting for the tide to have a morning off from our daily
swing in our favour so that we can driving, the tension is palpable.
access the famous Doodsakker. If you Milling around, watching the sea
browse to S16.28515° E11.81104° and trying to get a sense of the tide. I
you will see an ominous warning on quickly realise that I have no idea of
your GPS screen: “Extremely Dan- the subtlety of this process. The high
gerous - Slipway dune with waves tide mark is visible but where on
breaking into dune” Reminds me earth is low tide and how low does
of the old mapmakers who would it have to be before it turns? This is
inscribe “Here be Dragons” on the where our guide, Martin le Roux
edges of their maps. rises to the occasion. He’s done the
Waiting. The death acre is a beautiful acre many times and he’s watching
stretch of coastline which requires a the ocean carefully.
huge amount of respect from those Waiting. Can’t we just check the tide
who venture into it. Get the tides tables? Nope, closest reliable info is
right and it’s a lovely, relatively easy for Walvis Bay a couple of thousand
drive. Get it wrong and you’re going kilometres to the south. Tyres right
to lose your vehicle. Simple as that. down to 0.8 bar.
Waiting. The name derives from a Waiting. Check the recovery gear.
military term for an ambush. Once Snatch strap neatly mounted on
the enemy has inadvertently entered bulbar with a quick release slipknot.
the zone or “acre” they are doomed. Bridle and shackles all in place and
Instead of soldiers crouched behind ready to go. Recovery tow bar pin
machine guns, Mother Nature’s next to driver’s seat with a spare
weapons are far more subtle. Steep bottle of water to clean the bracket
dunes and rough Atlantic waves with from the inevitable sand. The plan is
a path between them that opens at simple. If you get into trouble hook
low tide. Enter at the wrong time and up to the vehicle in front of you.
you’re effectively in an ambush. By Waiting. 1pm, 2pm, still the tide
the time you realise you’re in trouble recedes slowly under Martin’s
your escape routes are closed. The watchful eye.
internet is alive with images of dead Waiting. 3pm. We’re doing the acre
vehicles that have failed to respect north to south. It’s the safer direction
Mother Nature’s acre. to travel in due to the geography of
Waiting. It’s now noon and we are all the acre. There are two sets of rocks
parked on a dune near the entrance which jut into the sea that can only
to the acre. As much as it’s nice to be passed at dead low tide. They’re

27

closer to the north and therefore on our left always a reminder of the
slightly easier to time and judge. situation.
Waiting. 3.15pm. Clearly there is no
way we are going to get to Foz du Driving. The acre is a misnomer. It’s
Cunene in daylight. Check the actually about 80km long and we still
spotlight covers haven’t jammed have a few kilometres to go to the
from weeks of dust and rattling. 30km mark where the rocks are.
Waiting. 3.30pm. Action, Martin Driving. It’s getting narrower. Hit a
calls for our final drivers’ briefing. few more waves at speed. Fuel light
We all know the plan by heart stays off.
already but going over the details Driving. Can see the rocks in the
again just seems like the right thing distance. And more importantly,
to do. “Right, let’s go” followed by the the gap around them. It’s like Moses
comforting sound of diesel engines and the Red sea. We have respected
kicking into life. The Landies are Mother Nature and she has
ready. graciously opened a path for us.
Driving. 3.45pm. Mother Nature Martin’s timing is perfect. I spare a
invites us into her acre. The tide is thought for the horror of those who
low but not yet at its turning point. have got to this point and found their
We need to go now so that the rocks path closed.
will “open” as we get to them at dead Driving. The rocks are sharp, just
low tide. A few kilometres in and the enough space for a vehicle to get
beach starts to narrow as expected. around. We’re all through safely and
Waves are difficult to miss and I the radio chat and the mood lighten.
glance down to, not one, but two Driving. Well past the halfway point
orange lights on my dash. Next to and out of the real danger zone. The
the comforting glow of the diff lock dunes are now less threatening and
indicator there’s the orange fuel filter/ there are a few places where you
sedimenter light. Blix, my Landy, could safely get away from the sea as
doesn’t like his fuel system wet but I the tide rises.
know he’s not going to let me down.
The light goes off.
Driving. It’s beautiful. The sand is
hard and the going is relatively easy.
The little bays are tempting but we
can spare no more than a few
minutes for a photo. The steep dunes

28

29

Driving. Its stunning, exhilarating, Imagine driving 80 km on the beach
one of the nicest drives I’ve ever in the dark in South Africa.
done. The Landies are in their ele- 8pm. Welcome to (windy) Foz du
ment. Cunene. We chat around the camp-
Driving. Close to the end of the acre. fire, enjoying the fresh mussels
I almost want to go back and do Martin fetched out of the sea
it again, but I know those Atlantic during or photo stop earlier. We all
waves are already crashing into the have much to say about the death
rocks and Mother Nature has closed acre and our experience. Martin
her acre. chides us. “Please don’t call it the
The sun is setting and we stop for a Doodsakker- It really is the Mooi-
break. We’re all exhilarated. What akker.”
an amazing experience. But we still Yes it is. What an amazing day.
have a long way to go on the beach:
another 80 km to Foz du Cunene.
Spotlight covers off. Lights on. The
beach takes on a beautiful hue as the
vehicles light it up. It’s now pitch dark
and quite difficult to follow the wave
line.
It’s surreal. I chuckle to myself.

ASPECTS OF ANGOLA
By the Beukes family

We were fortunate to have experts in geo-sites, the one more impressive
various fields and disciplines among than the other. We will highlight only
our group. Consequently we gained a few.
far more from the various sights Our first stop was at a quarry
visited. Here follow some of the between Lubango and Caconda
fascinating aspects Angola has to in the South of Angola where
offer the explorer. anorthosite is being mined, At the
time of our visit the mine seemed
Geology to be abandoned. According to our
Angola’s geology makes it worth guide the anorthosite of Angola has
visiting the country more than once. some very unique qualities and is
Our tour guide took us to several

30

therefore widely sought after. colossal monoliths - some up to 200
Anorthosite is an intrusive igneous meters high - came to be there.
rock consisting of several minerals.
In geological terms anorthosite is a
very old type of rock, and although
its real origin is still highly debated
amongst geologists, it definitely dates
back millions if not billions of years.

The Angolan versions of anorthosite Their geological formations appear
rocks are dark and coarse-grained. to be clearly out of keeping with the
It shows up in isolated outcrops or surroundings. Most of the Black
blocks only in the southern part of Rocks comprise a conglomerate
Angola. Efforts to map the (of various sizes) of small rocks
distribution of these outcrops are cemented together through
currently underway by postgraduate various processes of tectonic activity
students from UJ and Wits. and lithification to the point where
Angola is also home to some it forms an extremely hard resistant
relatively unknown treasures such rock mountain very similar to
as the Black Rocks of Pungo igneous rock granite. Some say these
Andonga that rise majestically rocks are the oldest frozen lava
over the savanna landscape of north- emissions in the world.
eastern Angola. They are a series of Another very interesting feature of
mysterious rock formations, some Angola’s geology is the sandstone
of which are spectacularly shaped in cliffs along the west coast.
the form of animals. The local people
refer to them as Pedras Negras de 31
Pungo Andona. They are indeed
steeped in intrigue and history as
no one seems to know how these

Our journey took us along the
coastline from just north of Luanda
right down to the Kunene Mouth.

The coastal areas of Angola are flat, Village of Njambasana is located near
with occasional low cliffs and bluffs the lake and the local community has
of red sandstone. We camped at built a kind of parking lot and basic
some of the most spectacular sites on campsite, charging a fee for their
the beach. The west coast of Angola services. The lake unfortunately dried
forms part of the Namib Desert up, but the rock formations are easily
which apparently has been dry for accessible on foot.
at least the past 55 million years or On our way back to Ruacana we
so – a time lapse that must have had drove past the Zebra Mountains at
a profound influence on the the border between Namibia and
biodiversity of the region. Angola. This is indeed an impressive
Just north of the city of Namibe we mountain range and geologically
stopped at Lake Arco. Lake Arco forms part of the Cunene complex
used to be a freshwater oasis in the of tectonic activities. Their
Namibe province of Angola. It is conspicuous stripes gave the range its
named after the two spectacular name and are not caused by igneous
rock formations of sandstone arches layering, but alternating scree and
at the perimeter of the lake. more vegetated slopes.
Imbedded in the sandstone are shells
of numerous shapes and sizes which
confirm that this lake was in earlier
geological times probably part of a
shallow sea. Tectonic uplifting of the
area followed by millions of years of
weathering and erosion must have
32 exposed what can be seen today. The

The Dorsland Trekkers the majority of them remained. A
Just before Lubango we turned off the few went further north, settling
main road in a north westerly in different places on the Central
direction to take a shortcut to Highlands. The various settlements
Humpata to visit the remains and formed one closed community that
memorials of the Dorsland Trekkers. resisted integration with the local
The first group of the Dorsland communities and they were not
Trekkers set out in the first part of allowed the use of Afrikaans at
1874 followed by a number of schools and were not prepared to
different groups of farmers, taking accept Catholicism. After World War
different routes. The last group I, some began migrating southwards
left the Transvaal in 1906. They all into Namibia, while others returned
set off mainly from what was then to their original places of origin
known as the Transvaal from areas leaving behind many of their
around Rustenburg, Groot Marico, possessions in Angola.
and Pretoria. Their primary
destination was the Humpata  The trekkers were strong in their
highlands of southwestern Angola. faith and before they started to
On their journey, the trekkers had to migrate back to where they came
traverse Botswana and the vast, arid from, they had built themselves a
areas of the Kalahari. The harsh and beautiful church. After most of the
dry conditions that they experienced trekkers had left Angola, the church
in the Kalahari gave the trek the building became neglected. It was
name Dorsland (Land of thirst)Trek. later taken over by the Lutheran
It is uncertain how many people Church who renovated the building.
actually left the Transvaal – estimates It is still used today as a church.
range from about 600 up to 3,000. In Humpata a
Eventually only about 60 families monument was
totalling 300 people arrived in erected to
Humpata, where they were given 200 commemorate the
hectares per family to farm on. 75th anniversary of
the return of the
The trekkers entered Angola by settlers from
crossing the Cunene River at Angola in 1928.
Swartbooisdrift. The  Portuguese
colonial authorities at the time We also visited a
encouraged the Boers to settle on nearby graveyard
the Huíla Plateau at Humpata where with about 15 graves which now
seems to enjoy the status of a
monument. 33

THE CHILDREN OF ANGOLA
By Jeannie Beukes

The Angolan population seems, The main transport in Angola
predominantly, to comprise younger appears to be rickety motorcycles.
people and children. All along the It was therefore not uncommon to
roads, as we negotiated our way see a baby on a mom’s back as a
through potholes and dongas, we saw passenger on a motorbike, head
children going somewhere. They all hanging to the side while the driver
seem to be very happy as they smiled manoeuvred very ably through traffic
and waved as we passed. Dennis and potholes! An older child would
caused a lot of excitement with tennis sit uncomfortably wedged between
balls that he and Anita had brought the mom and the driver. A chicken
along and distributed liberally. or other weird stuff sometimes forms
Tennis balls were thrown part of the cargo.
unexpectedly, at one place from the
top of the escarpment to the delight
of children playing far below at a
seaside village.

Babies are aplenty, mostly wrapped We often found children begging at
in a colourful paso (the colourful tourist spots – the top of the Lebo
cotton cloth worn by most women pass was crowded with beggars.
throughout Angola) on the moms’ Some were selling bags of garlic and
backs with just the tiny feet sticking were very adamant not to drop their
out or even suckling at a breast whilst prices. At the Christo Rei monument
the mom is walking. in Lubango one overly opportunistic
entrepreneur hired a taxi to bring
34 him uphill to earn a few kwanzas
from our group!

In the rural areas begging was less It was so sad to know that these
obvious, but we observed some children, like many others, are not
young entrepreneurs who obviously attending school.
should have been at school. At one of Colourful beads or strings braided
our stops children, all of school into the hair of girls of all ages was
going age, presented themselves as explained to us as indicating various
guides to lead us to and through stages of maturity.
an enormous cave – actually a
riverbed that runs through a
mountain. There we experienced a
‘ritual’ at the entrance to the cave.

Branches were stacked in an arch A very disturbing fact was that many
with a piece of cloth below it on the of the young girls we saw were
ground. It was clear that we were already carrying a baby on the back.
expected to do something. Jan tried
all kinds of manoeuvres to comply We saw many toddlers walking all
with whatever was required, but to by themselves next to the road. At a
no avail. Just before he went on his place where we bought charcoal, the
knees for the kneeling ritual, we little brother was very protective of
realised that they were just trying his smaller sister, while the pregnant
to charge us an entrance fee! Once mom was selling the charcoal. The
inside the caves, the group of guides little girl was wearing a flower girl
darted, mostly barefoot, over the (wedding) dress. We saw many of
rough terrain to entertain us with those along the way.
their gymnastic skills, doing
cartwheels and daring backflips. They 35
received their kwanzas (and a tennis
ball each) when we were back at our
Landies.

The children have chores as soon as We had a weird and unsettling SO
they start walking. They carry wood experience as we drove past a kraal in
(sticks) or water on their heads. a rural area. A woman ran into the
One little girl was even carrying a road and dragged her baby through
bunch of bananas on her head and the sand and dust behind each
a heart-breaking moment for the passing Land Rover, causing anxious
grandmothers in the group was moments for the drivers. We
when, at one of our sightseeing stops, speculated whether this was some
we witnessed a mere baby of about ritual or whether she was totally
two with a load of tangled sticks insane!
on his head crying bitterly until his While Dave and Martin were sorting
young siblings released him from his out Dave’s accident at the Police
burden and added his load to their station, the rest of us spent some
own. time in the parking area of a newly
Children attending school wear a built shopping mall. A cheerful
thin white cotton frock over their family, who spoke some English, got
normal clothing. They have a out of their car. Dennis made friends
morning session and another one with the little boy and was allowed
after lunch. During this break, you to pick him up. The father was so
will find them walking long stretches impressed with us that we had to
to get home. At some schools the pose for pictures and he insisted that
younger children must provide their one of us take a picture of him with
own chairs. Children in white, the group. Generally, the people of
carrying colourful plastic chairs, Angola enjoyed being photographed
form a pretty picture. Classes and especially the children were
sometimes take place under a tree happy to pose, unlike the Himba
with the blackboard pitched next to people who resisted photographs
the tree trunk. quite insistently.
We only once saw two children with
bicycles; in a fishing village where
we bought leather fish for our braai.
However, there were quite a few
children along the way pushing
interesting home-made wooden
scooters or carrying little cars made
from 2l coke bottles with axels and
wheels.

36

Memories of the war of Angola
By Dennis and Anita Steyn

Our tour starts at the picturesque trenches that had been carefully dug
Caluec dam. This dam was a joint by the Angolans had resulted in a
operation between South Africa devastating ambush of the South
and Angola to form a buffer for the African Koevoet in which many lives
turbine at the Ruacana hydroelectric were lost.
plant during the dry season. It also
serves an important function as
the water vein for the whole of
Ovamboland. This dam was bombed
by 2 mirages in 1982 and 7 SA troops
lost their lives.

Soon after crossing the border,
OLIHULML aAr6tiAnDtolaonkduscsatpoea2s0i1te4w11h/e2r4e/1t4he10:14 AM Page 1

C M Y CM MY CY CMY K

37

Next on the agenda was a visit to above Lubango it was interesting to
a forward base with underground look down on the airfield and see
bunkers and artillery pieces still in where mirages had been destroyed by
evidence. our aircraft.
Travelling north of Lubango one was
We also visited Cahama where South constantly reminded of the war due
Africa lost two mirages and to the presence of tanks, bridges and
numerous lives to conquer the town. infrastructure that had been partially
We could see two 63 tanks dug in demolished by Unita & Fapla.
on the high ground securing the In Luanda we visited the memorial of
base. The trencher used to dig the Kifan Ganda which was a significant
trenches, is still there with its V12 battle between FAPLA and the
aluminium block motor intact. Portuguese and then went on to
spend a couple of hours at the old
We then visited one of the Cuban fort, now a war museum portraying
headquarters constructed the war from the MPLA side.
underground using containers. These It was interesting to see an old
headquarters was so advanced that it ox wagon which had been used
contained an operating theatre where by the Dorsland trekkers, and
heart surgery could be performed.  equipment taken from the South
Standing at the Christo Rei high African Defence Force. Some of the
vehicles on display were a Buffel, an
38 Eland armoured vehicle and a KWE
recovery vehicle.
Looking at the displays inside from
a parent’s point of view was heart-
breaking: seeing photos of South
African soldiers who were killed.
The remains of a mirage that was
shot down as well as a South African
pilot’s flight suit were on display.
All in all, the reality of the Angolan
war was brought home to us in a
very real way, all the more so because
members of our group had been
personally affected by it.

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39

VHF Handheld Radios By Dirk Uys



With the move from the 29MHz two So, there’s no need to install a new
way radios to VHF, handheld radios antenna base if an 29MHz exists on
are becoming quite popular with your vehicle.
members. They are more affordable I had a coaxial cable extension made
than the built-in mobile models. up at the local communication
Handheld radios have a reasonable supplier that connects the antenna
battery life due to the development of connector on the handheld radio to
new technology. the existing connector from the
One drawback with the handheld external antenna.
radio is the reduced range when used
inside a vehicle. The range can be The extension cable is 1 meter long
extended with the use of an external with a female SMA on one end and
antenna. a UHF female connector crimped
The antenna base is the same for ontheother end. The antenna on the
the 29 MHz and the VHF antennas. handheld radio
Therefore a VHF antenna whip can is unscrewed
be fitted to a 29MHz base. to connect the
cable.
40 Another useful
device to make
the handheld
more functional
is a speaker
microphone.
With this
connected to

the handheld, For the ORRA frequencies and for
the handheld general off-road use I have found the
radio can be difference between the ¾ and ¼ wave
placed in any to be negligible. Note that ¼ and ¾
location inside whips are complete different
the vehicle. antennas with different base loads.
It is much A magnetic base for the antenna can
easier to use also be used if a magnetic surface is
the speaker available, something that is a bit
microphone difficult on a Defender.
than the It is very important to remember to
handheld radio connected to the trim a VHF antenna to the correct
antenna cable. length for frequency used according
There are different types of VHF to the particular antenna trim chart.
antennas available on the market. The whip is usually trimmed ±15mm
Most mobile VHF antennas installed longer than required with the final
on vehicles use a ¾ wave length trimming done with a SWR meter.
antenna (trimmed ±1300mm). There Trimming the antenna improves the
is also a much shorter ¼ wave length efficiency of the radio and the
antenna (±490mm). Theoretically the incorrect length could damage the
closer the antenna length is to 1 wave radio.
length the more efficient it is.

41

BORDER CROSSINGS – DO’S AND DON’TS
By The Blikkies

Our family bought our Defender in when we went to Botswana – we
2003, and it didn’t take us long to ensured that none of the fruit and
start using it to its fullest potential. vegetables we were taking were listed
We went on our first cross-border on the “no-go” list. When our turn
adventure in 2004 into Mozambique, came for the fridge inspection we
and have since then visited most of were promptly told that the beautiful
our neighbouring countries. The Woolworths strawberries could not
common denominator amongst these enter the coun-
trips is the dreaded border crossings. try. Now, I don’t
This article relates some of our know about you,
lessons learnt. but no normal
person would
Lesson 1 – Read up as much as just hand over
possible about the country you’re this delicacy – thus the Blignaut
going to – things you can take in, impromptu breakfast at 7 o’clock in
how much of each, and most the morning in the middle of no-
important of all, the things you may man’s land was a tray of strawberries.
not take in. Prepare yourself Our son, Justin’s car was next in line
accordingly, but don’t for one for the inspection. We saw him
moment believe that a specific border handing over something, but could
post might not suddenly change the not ask - radio silence is non-
42 rules. We experienced this in 2012 negotiable at border crossings! It was
only after passing safely through that
we stopped and he
informed us that he
was NOT going to
eat a pack of robot
peppers at 7 o’clock
in the morning!

Lesson 2 – talk to people who have
previously visited the country, and
then ensure that you do what they
advise you. We realised during our

43

first visit to Mozambique that it is we reached the Mozambican side
not prudent to have a border official of the border post – it took our best
guestimate the value of the food you negotiation skills to keep the
are taking in. The best solution is to magazine as they obviously perceived
take one of your monthly shopping this as a very valuable contribution to
lists along – just ensure that the total smooth passage.
value is not too little, but still less
than the sum of the allowable Lesson 4 – don’t pay bribes, but
per-person amount (obtainable realise that officials standing in the
from the relevant country’s official hot sun get thirsty and will
website). The one time we had a slip appreciate a cold cooldrink.
about 60cm long - I had also Just don’t make the
purchased 20 packets of jelly and 15 mistake of keeping
loaves of bread for the church’s fete special drinks that you
whilst shopping for our trip. When cannot buy on the other
we went to Malawi we gave our side in the most visible
fellow travellers the slip advice – they place – our kids didn’t
did get the slips, but both forgot to want to speak to us after
do the sums and so ended up with we handed over their Appletisers!
groceries of a value way more than
the allowable amount – the result was Lesson 5 – don’t lose your cool!
that both parties were taxed on the Good manners go a long way, and
full value of the slips! if you must wait a bit longer than
anticipated, just imagine how the
Lesson 3 – don’t display anything in poor people sitting in the stuffy,
your car that might tempt an cramped and, more often than not,
official into believing that you makeshift border offices feel. A smile
might be willing to part with it. and showing real interest in them can
During the 2010 Soccer World Cup shorten your stop-over considerably.
hosted in South Africa we decided I hope some of these points can be
to exchange the blaring vuvuzelas put to good use in your future border
for the silence of rural Malawi. My crossings – happy travels…

youngest son,
Philip, took his
Sports Illustrated
(dedicated to the
Soccer) with him,
and was reading
44 through it when

45

FACES OF NAMIBIA
By Chris Watcham

It was with much trepidation that at Gross Barmen Hot Springs Resort.
I decided to take on the Namibian For N$300 per camp site, we had
Desert with its dunes, running along access to the hot pool, which was
the coast for 2 000 km, with my most enjoyable.
Discovery SE4, with its low profile
tyres. It was a trip I had been Storm Clouds near Windhoek
planning to do for 30 years., having From there it was an easy run to
spent much of my youth in Walvis Bay and Swakopmund, where
Botswana, learning to drive in sand I had organised to leave our caravan
before getting a license to drive on at Alte Brucke Park.
tar. I decided to take the Discovery
rather than buying another vehicle as
it seemed a good challenge..
We also tried out the Discovery with
my new Conqueror Commander
Caravan, which it towed effortlessly.

We towed our caravan via Kgalagadi We arrive at Walvis Bay
Transfrontier Park, where we enjoyed For N$300 here you get a grassed
camping under amazing starry skies area in front of your own bathroom/
shower, a separate toilet and kitchen
On the way up to Namibia, we spent area, and a nice covered veranda - all
three nights in the Transfrontier spotlessly clean. They housed our
Kgalagadi Park, which is the
minimum number of nights to be
allowed through Mata Mata Border
Post. We spent a refreshing stop-over

46

caravan, with the fridge connected, Solitaire Country Lodge
free of charge, while we went to the Day 1. After a very early start we
dunes. We found both Walvis Bay filled up with diesel (190l) and water
and Swakopmund, to be clean and (60l). We travelled 35 km west and
friendly with really nice places to entered the Naukluft National Park
eat. The development between the through a farm gate, which Uri
two towns along the coast, I found Adventures are allowed to use.
incredible since last being there.
Education and the standard of
English are high and the people are
very welcoming. We spent a worth-
while day visiting Moon Valley and
Welwitschia Plain, where you find
the oldest and biggest Welwitschia
Plant in Namibia. We also drove up
the Swakop River and, having gained
permission from the lodge on the
edge, we popped in to the Norob
National Park. After a fascinating
59 km drive up the river, which rarely
has water flowing in it, one ends up
at the Goanikontes Oasis.

We gather in our positions before
setting off into the Naukluft

Flamingoes abound The countryside is dry, rocky and
We drove on a good road to Solitaire, desolate, but beautiful. It is
(2.5 hrs) where our group met, and simply amazing to see the
camped the night. After supper at the numbers of Mountain Zebra,
restaurant, we had our meet Gemsbuck (Oryx), Springbuck, and
and greet where there was much even Sand grouse, surviving that dry
excitement and anticipation. heat and sparse grazing. At this point
one sees the start of the sand dunes,
and you really wonder what you are
in for further on.

47

Day 2. We descended into the Kuiseb
Canyon through thick bush, and
being in front, the paintwork of the
Discovery was put to the test.

Stopping under the only tree we could see Descending into the River bed, which we
on the trip, for our first view of the Desert then drove up heading West

When we stopped for lunch, my
Ostrich awning was a very popular
spot to escape from the hot sun.

We arrive at Kuiseb Canyon. Note the We leave Kuiseb and enter the Dunes.
sand on the rightside (North). blown off Note the slip faces of the Dunes

the rocks on the left We spotted the endemic Malachite
It was decided not to sleep in the Bee Eater. On the steep rocky side
Kuiseb Canyon, as heavy rain had of the canyon, we stopped to see the
fallen which could flood the river; so, southernmost Welwitschia. From
we camped above it, with good views here one can see how the winds have
of the canyon. blown the sand from the seaward
side, over (and into) the river to the
48 Enjoying the Kuiseb Canyon other side. The river washes the
sand back out to sea, where it is
deposited back on the beaches, and
blown inland again. We exited
the canyon where you still find
Gemsbuck traversing the dunes,

49

seemingly knowing exactly where some getting used to. I hesitated at
they are going. The vehicles in the first and got stuck, which required
lead got stuck and we were instructed reversing all the way back down, an
to deflate to 0.8 Bar. I decide to go to experience demanding full
1.1 Bar with low profile tyres concentration, to avoid going
(recommended lowest pressure.) But sideways, and risking rolling down
later on, I had to deflate to 0.8 Bar to the dune. After a second charge up
avoid getting stuck. We camped in the slope with a yell as the front
the dunes. wheels lift into the sky, I made sure
the rear wheels were over the crest.
Time to deflate tyres Best not to be first, as the crest wears
Day 3. We crossed many steep dunes flat after the first few vehicles, but
with crests so sharp that you really still demands power all the way over
do not know what to expect when the top. What a thrill, and the steep
you reach the top. (The average descent has you taking gulps of air
height of the dunes is 150 meters and the first few times.
one drives up and down them at a 45
degree angle). What a pleasure
The views over the sea of sand in
every direction is breath-taking to
say the least. One feels so privileged
to be there.

We learn quickly how to handle the Feeling like a King in the desert,
climbs and descents on my throne

You have to keep momentum over
the top of the crest to prevent
getting stuck on the crest. It takes

50


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