Baroque and Rococo Magazine

B&R
1800
SPECIAL ISSUE

TOP 10 TECNOLOGICAL
INNOVATIONS THAT
CHANGED LIVES

OPULENCE AND
OPPRESSION: THE
MARIE ANTOINETTE
STORY

BAROQUE AND
ROCOCO: WHAT'S THE
DIFFERENCE?

THE FILM OF THE
CENTURY

THE END OF AN ERA

REFELCTIONS ON THE CULTURE,

POLITICS, INNOVATIONS, AND MORE

THAT SHAPED US

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Top 10 Innovations in 1-5
Technology of the 18th and
19th Century 6
7
Advertisement
8
Summary: Political
Environment of the 17th and 9
18th Centuries 10
11
Opulence and Oppression: 12-13
The Politics of Marie 14
Antoinette’s Rule 15
How Ideas Shape Aesthetics 16-17

Comparing Baroque and
Rococo

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What We Cared About

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The Film of the Century

Credits

TECHNOLOGY
WINTER 1800

Top 10 Innovations in
Technology of the

18th and 19th Century

Say goodbye to hand sewing say hello to machines. With the century wrapping up, let us look
down on some great highlights within the textiles industry from the year 1600 to today.
This has been a great time of innovation in technology for creating the garments we wear
today.
By Kylie Chan

Illustration depicting use of the Spinning Jenny.

10 9

Transcontinental Railroad Spinning Jenny
Coming in last, but certainly not least, the Next off is the Spinning Jenny. The
transcontinental railroad. Even though this function of this machinery is to spin wool
does not advance textiles directly, it did or cotton, and it was the first machine to
dramatically change the way textiles (and improve upon the spinning wheel. The
goods for textiles) were transported. This inventor James Hargreaves received his
railroad was the first in North America. It patent in the year 1764. The Spinning
stretches 1,911 miles from San Francisco Bay Jenny sped up the production of wool and
to Iowa. After the year 1869, transportation of cotton and helped makers meet the
garments and fabrics became easier and faster demand for textiles. Hargreaves' original
through the area and allowed a wider range of model had eight spindles side by side,
shared materials across the continent. creating eight spools simultaneously.

1
Top 10 Innovations in Technology of the 18th and 19th Century

TECHNOLOGY
WINTER 1800

8 Silk skirt and blouse dyed with Sir William Henry Perkin’s Mauve
Aniline Dye.
Synthetic Dyes

Synthetic dyes were a game-changer in
fabric colours. The first synthetic dye to
be made was picric acid, which created a
bright yellow on a silk fabric in 1771.
William Henry Perkin was a research
chemist who developed the firsts of the
synthetic dyes, which were patented in the
year 1856. Once it was patented, mass
production of the aniline purple dye
started to take place and be seen in various
garments.

7

Zig-Zag Stitch
In 1873, a woman from Maine named
Helen Augusta Blanchard patented the
first zig-zag stitch machine. The purpose
of the zig-zag stitch was to better seal
edges of seams to enhance the quality of
garments and to ensure they did not a fall
apart. Besides her most famous zigzag
machine, she invented other machinery
like the hat-sewing machine, and surgical
needles, to name a few.

6

Steam-Powered Machines
Following up is steam-powered machines
for producing textiles and garments. One
of the machines' use was to cut multiple
layers of cloth all at once. This sped up
production of clothing at the textile
factories. Though this was great news for
buyers, it had the unfortunate effect of
causing independent tailors and weavers
to lose their customers and jobs.

2
Top 10 Innovations in Technology of the 18th and 19th Century

TECHNOLOGY
WINTER 1800

Illustrated instructions for making a Butterick Pattern. 4

5 Jacquard Machine
At number four is the Jacquard machine,
Patterns named after the inventor Joseph-Marie
To come in fifth is standardized paper patterns for Jacquard. He improved the original
clothing, developed in 1859 by Ebenezer Butterick. punched-card design of Jacques de
Four years after his first pattern sold, his innovation Vancanson’s 1745 by enhancing a controlled
changed the world of garment production. Though it action on the loom. This allowed automatic
changed apparel sold in stores (which was rare and production of complex designs onto the
expensive), mainly homemade garments were woven fabric from the automatic raising
affected. There were only one-size-fits-all patterns and lowering of a yarn to create patterns.
available, so most people had to manually grade the Jacquard's loom took inspiration for his
pattern to alter to their size. When inventing his invention from the early Chinese draw
sized pattern, he knew he was going to make great loom.
profits from home sewers, so he considered the best
material for these patterns to be those the most
accessible. His patterns range started from infant
wear, then gradually expanded with girls’ and
women’s patterns.

The improved Jacquard loom.

3
Top 10 Innovations in Technology of the 18th and 19th Century

TECHNOLOGY
WINTER 1800

3

Chain-Stitch Single-Thread

Sewing Machine

In third is the chain-stitch

single-thread sewing machine.

First built by Batherelemy

Thimonnier, who was

working as a French tailor.

Thimonnier's chain-stitch

machine was simple and

mimicked the motions of

typical hand-sewing. Later, in

1857, James Gibbs— a farmer,

inventor, and businessman

from Virginia— patented the

first chain-stitch single-thread

sewing machine using a

rotating hook.

2

Cotton Gin

Coming just shy of first is the

Diagram showing how the chain stitch machine fucntions. cotton gin, which is a
Illustration of the cotton gin. machine that separates cotton

fiber from seeds. It was

showcased in 1793 by Eli
Whitney, the creator of this

machine. The cotton gin sped

up the process of cotton
production since slaves were

no longer used for the

removal of seeds, but instead
to grow and pick cotton. As

the speed of production

increased, so did the demand
for cotton; per year, raw

cotton increased from 2

million to 85 million pounds
(over 16 years). This

invention enormously

increased the production of
American cotton farms. By

the mid-century, America

was growing ¾ of the world’s
supply of cotton, most of

which went to New England

and England to become
manufactured into garments.

4
Top 10 Innovations in Technology of the 18th and 19th Century

TECHNOLOGY
WINTER 1800

A traditional lockstitch sewing machine.

1

Lockstitch Sewing Machine
Reigning in at number one is the lockstitch sewing machine. For this
iconic piece of technology, we can thank by Elias Howe, the inventor of
the lockstitch sewing machine. He first created his machine in 1846, which
included a needle with an eye at the point and went through the motions
(as seen below) to create a lock stich. Unfortunately, he was not able to
market it out; that was when Isaac M. Singer improved his machine with
the up-and-down motion mechanism to finally put it out for sale. It is also
worth mentioning that another American, Walter Hunt, was the first
person to build the lock stich sewing machine, but his morals intervened
with further procession of the machine, as he believed it would cause
unemployment.

Step-by-step function of the lockstitch machine.

5
Top 10 Innovations in Technology of the 18th and 19th Century

It's okay to be vain.

With our portable boîte that is a
makeup drawer and a vanity all in
one, we'll understand if you find
yourself gazing at your reflection.

BOÎTIER
VERSAILLES

POLITICS
WINTER 1800

Suomf tmhear17yt:hPaonlidtic1a8lthEnCveinrotunrmieesnt
By Hanako Story

Liberty Leading the People, 1830 (oil on canvas), Eugène Delacroix

The two centuries that span the Baroque and Rococo eras may have appeared opulent, however, there
was trouble brewing under the surface. During the 17th century, Europe suffered several social and
political upheavals with civil wars, revolts, peasant uprisings, and rebellion against the nobility. Absolute
monarchies developed as a response to the crisis caused by these uprisings, and by the 18th century
absolute monarchy was usually excepted everywhere except Great Britain (the monarch's power had
been limited as a result of the Glorious Revolution in 1688). During the 18th century, there was almost
always a war or the threat of a war; the century came to a close with the French Revolution. Religious
tensions always remained high; France and Spain were major Catholic powers, but Britain, Germany,
Scandinavia, and Holland remained Protestant. In 1685 Louis XIV revoked the Edict of Nantes, which
resumed the persecution of Protestants in France; the flight of these Protestants from France badly hurt
the French economy by draining their silk industry of workers. In England, Puritans (a branch of
Protestantism) immerged in opposition to the Church of England who disliked their Roman rituals. In
1666 in England, Charles II granted the East India Company the right to wage war and conclude peace,
acquire territory, coin money, command fortresses, and administer troops, effectively making the East
India Company a sovereign state; in the Seven Years War in India, the East India Company (with loans
from the British government) defeated the French. The ruling European powers in the 17th century
were France, England, and Spain.

From this time immerged a great number of important political figures. Here are the ones you need to
know to be up to date with the happenings of the last couple centuries:

-Robespierre (1758-1794) was a Jacobin leader and one of the main figures in the French Revolution. He ruled the
Committee of Public Safety during the Reign of Terror before ultimately being executed.
-Napoleon (1769-present) is a French military leader who rose to prominence during the French Revolution.
-Catherine the Great (1729-1796) was the empress of Russia who brought her nation into political participation with
the rest of Europe and continued on the work of Peter the Great. She expanded Russian territory into Crimea and
Poland.
-Louis XIV (1638-1715) was the king of France during times of greatness and is emblematic of absolute monarchy. He
most notably expanded France’s borders through wars from 1667-1697, and launched the War of the Spanish
Succession to gain access to the Spanish throne for his next of kin.
-Louis XVI (1754-1793) was the last king of France before the monarchy was abolished due to the French Revolution.
He was the husband of Marie Antoinette.
-Marie Antoinette – See next page.

7
Summary: Political Environment of the 17th and 18th Centuries

POLITICS
WINTER 1800

OTAhnpetuoPlienonelcittteieca’ssnoRdfuOMlepaprireession:

By Hanako Story

Marie Antoinette, 1767-68 (oil on canvas), Meytens, Martin II

Love her or hate her, we all know her; whether it is for her gorgeous gowns and jewelry, her outrageous
statements and behaviour, or simply her tragic end, the story of Marie Antoinette is one that captivated
generations. Looking beyond the sensational narrative of her life, what impact did Antoinette have on
France and beyond?
Marie Antoinette influence began in 1770, when she married into the French royal family at 15 years old.
Their extravagant wedding thrust young Marie into the public eye. There were many things that the
French people hated about her, such as the exorbitant time wasted on socializing and other frivolous
activities, or her model farm she had built to act out a peasant’s lifestyle. This was compounded by
further rumours invented about Antoinette, and it quickly became common for her to be seen as the
face of France’s issues. Left in great debt by colonial wars and participation in the American Revolution,
the French people resented the royal family for their exorbitant spending on the taxpayer’s dime. When
Louis XVI tried to reform the tax system, the royal family vetoed it, which left the blame squarely on
Antoinette. Convinced that the monarchy and elites were keeping them down, a group of citizens
stormed Versailles in 1789, capturing the royal family for a short period.
Marie Antoinette’s Austrian ancestry was a constant sore spot in the public discourse, however it came to
a fever pitch when the Jacobins declared war on Austria as a way of testing her loyalties. The war did not
go well and resulted in another capture of the royals, and the death of Princesse de Lamballe and Louis
XVI. Finally, she herself was executed in 1793.
In summation, we can clearly see that Marie Antoinette left chaos in her wake; war, poverty, and
discontent permeated France and the surrounding countries under her rule. However, her role as the
paragon of everything wrong with the elites of society (including royals and nobility) has had a lasting
impact on how France and Europe at large view the monarchy.

8
Opulence and Oppression: The Politics of Marie Antoinette’s Rule

CULTURE
WINTER 1800

How Ideas Shape Aesthetics

Reviewing the way our values and cultture influence artistic sensibility.

By Courtney Lee

Religion and Strife

During the 17th and 18th centuries, The Night Watch, 1642 (oil on canvas), Rembrandt van Rijn
the Roman Catholic Church played
a very important role in the
public's lives. Just as the Black
Death was ending, people started to
lose faith in the churches, and the
Protestant reformation gained
control. In response, the Roman
Catholic Church created the
Counter-Reformation; originally,
the Jesuits were formed to
go against the Protestant
Reformation. The Council of Trent
announced to the public that there

should be more art created to allow those who could not read to understand the message of the Jesuit
church. This explains why the art and architecture during this period were so intense and grand.
Many of the sculptures and paintings express the stress of what was going on in the Baroque period:
the tension between religions and the conflict people were having with eachother. For example, the
painting The Night Watch is mostly composed of dark colours, but is highlighted to show the
expression on the faces. Another form of art is opera; these opera singers would sing about how
people we feeling and the stress they were having at the time. Later on, the people’s needs and wants
slowly changed, causing the end of Baroque period, and ushering in the Rococo period. The people
were tired of being angry and stressed, and it was time for a change. Rococo was more free and
natural, and the emotions were embedded deeper into the art.

The Age of Enlightenment
The Age of Enlightenment was a philosophical
movement that took over the world, and especially the
ideas in Europe during the 18th century. During the Age
of Enlightenment, the hoop petticoat became iconic in
the world of fashion. In the 1620s, women no longer
dressed like the Renaissance “farthingale." Designers
were influenced by Marie Antionette's custom-made
garments in the style of Baroque and Rococo, which
changed the fashion industry forever. As the silhouette
changed to wider hoops under pleated skirts, narrow-
waisted busts with a lower neckline grew in popularity,
too. This era changed the way women would dress by
showing more of their figure and revealing more skin.

Madame Bergeret, 1766 (oil on canvas), François Boucher

9

How Ideas Shape Aesthetics

CULTURE

WINTER 1800

Comparing Baroque and Rococo

The differences and similarities that characterize the styles that have dominated the past two centuries.
By Courtney Lee

During the late 17th century, bright colours were
used for men's and women's clothing, especially as
it pertained to lace. In no time men and women of
all walks of life could be seen with wardrobes
updated in the new styles. Later in the century, lace
began to be shown more on women’s clothing than
men’s. Typically, women would wear more light
colors, while men would wear darker colors.




When comparing the colour profile of the two styles, Baroque utilizes a dark, moody colour palette,
while Rococo tends to stick more to pastels. Colours like black and dark shades of yellow and red could
be found on fashionable Baroque garments, which were emphasized by contrasting white elements,
such as embroidered or lace collars or light-colored gloves. For women, this contrast could even be
achieved through the white accessories in their headgear. The Rococo style had a large variety of light
pastel colors like blues, reds and yellows. Colours like blue and black came from different natural dyes.

In Europe, Isatis Tin
ctoria was the main source, which was grown north
of Denmark. In the late 1600s, indigo was imported to Europe; in

Southeast Asia, the Indigofera is the country's native plant. Over time, the
dying process has improved through the discovery of other plants

(specifically Haematoxylum Campechianum, also known as logwood, and
native to Central America) that deposit colour like black and various

blues. In the second half of the 18th century, many paintings depict men
wearing blue or black coats and women in blue dresses.





The Baroque period has lasted from
the 1600s onwards, and these styles are
still popular today. Baroque
emphasizes flowing lines and
extravagant ornamentation. In the
early years of the 18th century, clothes
began to shift from silhouette details
like large ruffs and large skirts, to
softer, more flowing styles. Rococo
had a gentler, more delicate style than
Baroque; there were more curves,
which is a characteristic adapted from
the Chinese and Gothic styles.




10
Comparing Baroque and Rococo

Marielle

Antoinette style without Antoinette money. Because one pair is
never enough.

SOCIAL • ECONOMIC
WINTER 1800

What We Cared About

A retrospective on the past two centuries pulls from past B&R publications to find the stories that mattered
to our readers most. Take a trip back in time with us to see what was on our mind 10, 50, and even 150
years ago.

By Georgia Martin

Is the Thirty Years' War Almost Over? Watch Where You Keep Your Gold
Originally published in 1647 Originally published in 1627

Recent news from the South suggests Louise Leave your gold with a goldsmith. When you
XIII has become an ally with the Swedish deposit your money at the goldsmith, you
king, even though he is Protestant. Is this will know it’s safe. You will be given a note
because Louise XIII doesn’t want the Roman recording how much money you have. This
Empire to become too powerful? Or could new trend is allowing for people to trade and
this be an end to the devastating war barter notes representing how much money
affecting our trade and economy? they have at the goldsmiths. They are calling
Since the war has started, trading has it a bank system. Some people are worried
become much more difficult. The cost of that King Charles I will confiscate our gold
food has increased exponentially. We need again. It's no longer safe to leave your hard-
to put an end to this madness. The Holy earned gold at the Royal Mint.
Roman Emperor Ferdinand III of Habsburg
has allegedly called a meeting aiming to
bring peace to our nations. They are calling
this the Peace of Westphalia. Hopefully, this
will be the end to the fighting between
Protestants and Catholics.

12
What We Cared About

SOCIAL • ECONOMIC
WINTER 1800

What We Cared About

The New Economy
Originally published in 1702

Unusually Cold Weather Destroys Crops
Originally published in 1749

I am a merchant. However, it wasn't always Is God punishing us for our bad behaviour?
this way; I once was a farmer. As our This unusually cold weather we are having is
population has grown, we have been able to destroying local communities’ crops, leaving
stop producing all of our own food, and are families starving to death in their own
now able to purchase it. Becoming a homes.
merchant was one of the best decisions I
have made. Farming is a thing of the past.
Instead, start trading fabric and exotic goods
from all over the world. In my business, we
import amazing fabric from China, India
and Spain, selling them to local women who
create beautiful garments; this will allow you
to work a less physical job and support your
family with a more consistent income.

Keeping Up With Catherine Queen Catherine of Braganza, wife of King
Originally published in 1680 Charles II, has a new obsession: tea from
China, imported by the East Indian Trading
Company. It’s not only for nobility now. She
first tried it in her home county of Portugal.
Now her favourite drink, she loves to sip on
a nice hot cup of tea in her new China set
imported from China as well.

13
What We Cared About

Local Advertisements

EXOTIC NEW GOODS JUST ARRIVED IN MARCH SOCIALIZING GALA
LONDON



The new fabric just came in from the East We know you feel nervous about how much our
Indian Company! We offer beautiful wool in social life is changing, but this is something to be
balls as well as felt, and exotic silk dyed with excited about. With new advancements in
spices and plants straight from India. There are technology and the rise of a trade economy, people
tons of cotton from all over the globe with have more free time than ever before, and we want
different colours and weights! Don't show up to to socialize more. Socializing with your town can
your next dinner party wearing your same help you jump in class and ensure your daughters
boring cloak! Buy our fabric while you can. Very can wed men of a high standard. If you want to see it
limited quantities. Perfect for making your for yourself, buy tickets to the new gala happening
daughter a beautiful gown to increase her on March 10th, 1800. Wear your finest clothing.
dowry! Located on the corner of the high street.

NEW BOOKS JUST ARRIVED IN SMITH'S
BOOKSHOP

Educate your children with the best books around. Novels
in French, geography, history, as well as books in home
medicine and cooking. We also have William
Shakespeare’s modern classic Hamlet (now seeing a
resurgence in popularity), as well as his entire collection
including the Tempest, Othello, and Macbeth.

Want to see your own message here? Contact us at our location in London to place an advertisement in B&R

14
Local Advertisements

FILM
WINTER 1800

The Film of the Century

By KylieChan

Le Roi Danse.

One of the films that has been blowing up the box office is Le Roi Danse. This film takes
place in the 16th century and is about the infamous Louis XIV. Though it is in French, it is
certainly something you should not miss. From the costume to the set and the plot, it is it
definitely the top movie you should catch before it leaves the cinema. If you are not into
the subtitles, there is amazing dancing, but I will not go into much more or else the movie
may be spoiled. Something that we can discuss that will not spoil the plot too much is the
spectacular costumes. Not only are these costumes accurate with the time, but they are so
visually pleasing. Oliver Beriot, the costume designer, definitely did his research. One
costume that stood out the most is Louis’ ballet costume. It has a headpiece that resembles
a sun and has a puffy sleeve structure. It also features footwear worn similarly to that
period, with the heel and jeweled buckle decorations. The trousers are properly shaped at
the knee and Louis’ hair is a trend that was seen often on men. All costumes have amazing
intricate embroidery, which is historically accurate drawing back in the 16th century.
Though there is not as much jewelry and shiny fabric, since synthetic fabrics had not been
invented yet, it does not seem noticeable among all the other detailing that is accurate. Le
Roi Danse did not feature much womenswear, but in the few clips of them, the shaping of
the dress is accurate with the low waistline and off the shoulder cut. For the sleeves they
could have emphasized them more and added more volume, but that may have been the
costume designer's decision for functionality rather than accuracy. Overall, the production
of this film was fantastic and Gerard Corbiau, the producer, made an award-winning
movie.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PdeqbpfXaK8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OO2HBhwk05g




15
The Film of the Century

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Technology and Film Writer - Kylie Chan
Politics Writer - Hanako Story
Culture Writer - Courtney Lee

Social and Economics Writer - Georgia Martin
Editor and Magazine Design - Hanako Story

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16
Credits

REFERENCES
(IMAGES)

CULTURE POLITICS

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Paresys, I. (2017). The Body. In P. McNeil (Eds.). A Cultural History of Dress and liberty-leading-the-people/
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François Boucher. (2018, August 19). Retrieved October 26, 2021, from TECHNOLOGY

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East India Trading Company. PotC Wiki. (n.d.). Retrieved October 22, 2021, from Certi-Pik. (2020, April 10). When was the cotton gin invented. Retrieved October 26,
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James Gibbs' other chain Stitch Sewing Machine. (n.d.). Retrieved October 26, 2021,

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Tubb, G. (2017, December 27). Scientists predict 'mini ice age' could hit UK by 2030. https://www.computerhope.com/jargon/j/jacquard-loom.htm
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'Cupid's Target, from "Les Amours des Dieux," 1758' giclee print - Francois Boucher.

(n.d.). Retrieved October 26, 2021, from https://www.art.com/products/p11723118-sa-

i1348622/francois-boucher-cupid-s-target-from-les-amours-des-dieux-1758.htm




Unspeakablevice. (2015, March 20). 10 reasons why you should watch 'Le roi danse'

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17

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B&R
1800
SPECIAL ISSUE