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On Becket's Trail

A Motorcycle Pilgrimage Around the Lanes of South
East England

Copyright © 2020 John Lodge
All rights reserved.

Cover design by Dan Lodge
No part of this book can be reproduced in any form or by written, electronic

or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information
retrieval system without written permission in writing by the author.

Published by John Lodge
Printed by . . .

Printed in Great Britain

Although every precaution has been taken in the preparation of this book, the
publisher and author assume no responsibility for errors or omissions. Neither

is any liability assumed for damages resulting from the use of information
contained herein.
ISBN

For my sons Simon, Daniel and Ben



Contents

Preface
Chapter 1
Chapter 2
Chapter 3
Chapter 4
Chapter 5
Chapter 6
Guide to the route

1. Canterbury to Dover
2. Dover to Appledore
3. Appledore to Battle
4. Battle to Clayton
5. Clayton to Arundel
6. Arundel to Havant
7. Havant to Southampton
8. Southampton to Winchester
9.Winchester to Alton
10.Alton to Guildford
11. Guildford to Chaldon
12. Chaldon to Chevening
13. Chevening to Detling
14. Detling to Charing
15.Charing to Canterbury
Ritual prayers
References

Preface

Chapter 1

Chapter 2

GUIDE to the Route

Canterbury to Dover

THIS FIRST SECTION shadows the Francigena Way – the
medieval pilgrim route from Canterbury to Rome.
Conveniently, it serves to connect the traditional northern
Canterbury path with the 'newly-discovered' southern way.

Leaving behind Canterbury's busy streets, within a few minutes
you enter the quiet Kent countryside via Beakesbourne Rd, a right
turn off the busy A257.The way to Dover heads south east, tracking
the eastern fringe of the North Downs so there's little in the way of
hill climbing here; an exception being the short descent into Dover
itself, where fine views of the castle and the port can be seen from
the road.
Although in summer the Kentish lanes are fringed with
hedgerows in leaf restricting the views, there are still occasional
opportunities to catch sight of the horizon across the gently sloping
arable fields.The section concludes with a fine sea-view ride, along
the top of England's famous white clifftops.

For the most part you are riding along leafy lanes and small
country roads at the national speed limit; although there are a few
villages where the speed limit drops to 30 or 40 mph. It's a pleasant,
relaxing ride.

Barfrestone
HALFWAY TO DOVER you enter the hamlet of Barfrestone. Here St
Nicholas - a Norman church with extravagant interior and
exterior carvings - displays the twelfth century wealth of the de
Port family from Dover Castle who commissioned it.The lower
walls of the church are built from flint rubble, but the upper (and
dressed) parts are made from imported Caen stone, needed for the
carvings.

Look out for the Norman wheel window – much rarer than the
more common rose design; and the splendidly adorned south
entrance.

Dover
THREE MILES SHORT OF DOVER you pass through St Margaret's
village and now you begin to scent the sea air as you ride parallel to
the cliffs. An open sky on your left betokens the proximity of the
English Channel. Keep an eye out for Dover Castle; it can be seen
up ahead on your right.Then, just before you drop down into the
town, you'll see a sign for a hairpin bend and immediately on the
left is the entrance into the National Trust's White Cliffs of Dover
site. I parked here and it provided excellent views; a cafe, toilets and
picnic tables made my stop a convenient one.
The town car parks have motorcycle bays although the seafront
appears to have been overlooked. However, if you're just after a
photograph or two it should be easy enough to pull over in Marine
Parade for a few moments and snap away.

Notes
THERE'S AN EXCELLENT WEBSITE maintained by the Friends of
Barfreston Church which provides lots of fascinating history and
background.The web address is:
http://s645975992.websitehome.co.uk/

NT parking for motorbikes ???

Dover to Appledore

SRoute description
EA AND MARSH figure prominently in this segment of the
pilgrimage. Dropping down from the National Trust White
Cliffs you enter the Dover and then head south-west over the rump
of the South Downs to Folkestone. Skirting the coast through
popular Sandgate and Hythe you reach Dymchurch before heading
across Romney Marsh, ending up in historic Appledore.
The route contrasts strongly with the quiet lanes of Kent in the
previous section: the first two thirds of this ride feature sea views
and seaside towns and the final part ends with a striking ride across
the flat fields of the marsh.You'll need to exercise patience here
because much of this ride is leisurely through 30 or 40mph roads;
when you reach Romney Marsh there's a fast stretch that takes you
to Appledore.

Samphire Hoe
IF YOU WERE UNABLE to see much of the white cliffs whilst passing
through Dover your best bet is probably to pause at Samphire Hoe.
This is a country park ten minutes out of Dover and you will have
an excellent view of the cliffs from the car park there.Take the
marked slip road off the A20; access is via a single-track tunnel
controlled by traffic lights.

Battle of Britain Memorial
CONTINUE ON THE A20 on leaving Samphire Hoe and then take a
left a mile further on, along the Old Dover Road.When I rode it
this appeared to be the road that time forget, judging by the poor

quality of its surface. However the deviation is worth it because the
sea views are marvellous.

Folkestone, Sandgate & Dymchurch
I DIDN'T STOP in any of these places but merely coasted through
them.They're not without interest. Folkestone's rather grand Castle
Hill Avenue for instance impresses; Sandgate main street is made up
of shops with their seaside paraphernalia spilling on to pavements;
and Dymchurch went by in a residential blur.
You're following the shoreline here and the riding between
Sandgate and Hythe is very pleasant with the open shore and sea
on your left. However, after Hythe the view out to sea is blocked
by an ugly, never-ending concrete sea wall. It was like riding along a
World War 2 defence installation.

St Mary in the Marsh
IF THE WEATHER IS SUNNY don't expect to avoid long lines of tourist
vehicles on the coast road. However the good news is that after
Dymchurch you get to strike out across Romney Marsh. One
doesn't need to be Sherlock Holmes to realise this is marsh country:
the landscape is open, the fields are as flat as flat and, in place of the
usual hedgerows, the roads are fringed with water-loving reeds.
Time to open the throttle and accelerate to Appledore.

Appledore

Appledore to Battle