Hardware Helper

 
 

HarHdewlaperer

GUIDING YOU THROUGH HARDWARE…
ONE STEP AT A TIME!

ENLARGED TO SHOW DETAIL Page 1 

 

NOT A SERVING SUGGESTION

Hardware Helper 3
3
TABLE OF CONTENTS 3
4
INTRODUCTION 5
INGREDIENTS 6
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW 7
SPECIFYING HARDWARE 16
STEP 1: SWING THE DOOR 22
STEP 2: HANG THE DOOR 23
STEP 3: SECURE THE DOOR
STEP 4: ACCESSORIZE THE DOOR
LATHER. RINSE. REPEAT.
PULLING IT ALL TOGETHER

    
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Hardware Helper

INTRODUCTION

BLDD Architects recommends that you utilize the free services of
an Architectural Hardware Consultant to create a hardware
schedule for you, especially if the project involves any electrified
hardware more complex than electric strikes or low energy
operators. If, however, you insist on doing it yourself and yet
you’re intimidated by door hardware and not sure where to
begin, then this handy Hardware Helper guide is for you! We will
walk you through the BLDD hardware master specification step
by step, and you will find yourself learning more about door
hardware in no time!

INGREDIENTS

To create a quality hardware specification, you will need the following ingredients:
• 08 7100 Hardware master specification by BLDD Architects (no substitutions)
• Project floor plan(s) with door numbers
• Hardware Helper
• Internet access to review product information (optional)

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

Who is BHMA, and why should I care?
BHMA is the Builders Hardware Manufacturer’s Association. They are the trade association involved in
standards, code and life safety regulations. They also test and grade each product to prove it meets the
relevant standard.

What are the different grades of door hardware?
BHMA has identified three different grades of hardware. Grade 3 is “residential quality”, and is not included in
the BLDD master specification. Grade 2 is considered “high residential quality”, and Grade 1 is “heavy duty
commercial quality”. Each product must go through testing to be graded, and the product is required to
continue to function after a predetermined number of test cycles in order to be certified that it meets the
grade. Here’s a sample listing of the various products and the number of test cycles required for each:

Device BHMA Standard Grade 1 Test Cycles Grade 2 Test Cycles Grade 3 Test Cycles
Butt Hinges A156.1 2,500,000 1,500,000 350,000
Bored Locks A156.2 1,000,000 400,000 200,000
Mortise Locks A156.13 1,000,000 800,000 800,000
Door Controls A156.4 2,000,000 1,000,000 500,000
Exit Devices A156.3 500,000 250,000 100,000

Three are also other criteria beyond test cycles such as higher applied forces, but you get the idea. It should be
pretty obvious from this chart that Grade 1 hardware will generally last longer than Grade 3 hardware.

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What is the cost difference between the grades?
Grade 1 hardware, depending on the item, is generally 25% to 50% higher than a comparable Grade 2 item.
Grade 2 is another 20% to 30% higher than Grade 3. Offsetting the price difference is the extended service life
of the higher grade item.

Can I mix and match products with different grades in the same building?
Yes. For most of our projects, especially public projects, we specify only Grade 1 hardware. However, the BLDD
master specification does include some Grade 2 products. For the locksets, the lever handles have been
designed to match the Grade 1 levers, so Grade 2 can be specified for some spaces to save money. Visually,
nobody will be able to tell the difference. Places where Grade 2 locksets could be specified include the
following:

• Private offices
• Private toilet rooms within offices
• Closets within offices
• Passage latchsets at doors that are normally held open
• Senior living facilities where door hardware is not subject to abuse (be careful with this one)

If you’re looking for high security and heavy use, then Grade 1 is definitely the way to go. At select low-use
doors where security is not as important, Grade 2 can be specified.

How do I make sure the product that I want to add to the specification meets all of the qualifications?
That’s easy. Look for the “BHMA Certified” logo. Manufacturers can do in-house self-certification or send their
products to a lab for testing, but neither of these methods is good enough to be “BHMA Certified”. Obviously,
with the self-certification, the manufacturer can claim just
about anything they want. With the two-party certification, the
lab merely tests the product once. So, a manufacturer could
send a high-quality product to the lab for testing but
manufacture a lower-quality product on the assembly line.
The third-party certification to be “BHMA Certified” includes
the same testing as two-party certification, but then randomly
pulls a product from the assembly line and tests it to make
sure that all products being produced meet the requirements. Only these products are stamped as “BHMA
Certified”. So, if you see any other logo or claim, such as “Meets ANSI A156” or “Meets or exceeds ANSI/BHMA
Grade 2 standards”, stay away from these products. You can also search on the web for “BHMA Certified” to
view the annual Certified Products Directory to see if the product you’re thinking about specifying has been
certified.

SPECIFYING HARDWARE

OK. We’re ready to specify some door hardware. Are you excited? The best way is to specify hardware one door
at a time using the Hardware Legend and the Hardware Group Schedule at the end of the master specification.
Hardware suppliers will use hardware groups when they create their submittals, so if you have the hardware
organized into groups, it will be much easier to check the shop drawings. Other options do exist, such as noting
the hardware as part of the Door Schedule for every opening, but the Hardware Group Schedule follows our
principle of “show the right information the least number of times”. To make it easy, we’re going to break down
the components into four steps:

• Swing the door
• Hang the door
• Secure the door
• Accessorize the door

    
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STEP 1: SWING THE DOOR

The first step in specifying the door hardware is determining the swing (or “hand”) of the
door. This indicates which side of the door requires a key to access. This may seem obvious
in most locations, but if it’s a pair of doors across a corridor, how do you know which side
can be locked and which side provides free access? Or, what if it’s a door between two
offices? The hand of the door is based on the secure side (the side that requires a key) and is
further defined by the door swinging away from you or toward you. There are also different
designations for pairs of doors, as the handing will define which leaf is active and which is
inactive. The chart below should be used to identify the proper hand of the door:
• LH – Left Hand
• RH – Right Hand
• LHR – Left Hand Reverse
• RHR – Right Hand Reverse
• LHA – Left Hand Active
• RHA – Right Hand Active
• LRHA – Left Hand Reverse Active
• RHRA – Right Hand Reverse Active
• LH/RH – Double door with both leafs active (not shown)
• LHR/RHR – Double door with both leafs active (not shown)

Determine the handing of the door and note the proper designation in the “Hand” column for Hardware
Group 01 in the Hardware Group Schedule.

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STEP 2: HANG THE DOOR

The next step is hanging the door. Generally, for wood or hollow metal doors in hollow
metal frames, BLDD specifies five knuckle full mortise hinges to hang the door. The “five
knuckle” portion refers to the number of sections that rotate between the two sides of the
hinge to open and close the door. All of the hinges in our master specification are five
knuckle except for the spring hinges (Type H7). Lower quality hinges (not included in our
specification) might have three knuckles or even two knuckles.

Next, you need to know how the hinge will be installed. There are four main types:
• A “full mortise” hinge is recessed into both the frame and the edge of the door so the face of the hinge
is flush with the adjacent components. All of the hinges in our master specification are full mortise
except the half-surface hinge (Type H8).
• You might have a “half surface” hinge on your doors at home, where the hinge is mortised into the
frame but screwed to the face of the door. In commercial applications, it’s good for really wide or heavy
doors where a hinge mortised into the edge of the door may have a tendency to pull out over time
because of the forces exterted on it.
• A “half mortise” hinge is recessed into the door edge and surface-mounted on the face of the frame.
• A “full surface” hinge is also available, but not that common in commercial buildings

Pay attention if you’re remodeling an existing building and keeping the doors and hardware in some locations.
You will probably want to match the style of the existing hinges if possible. Note also that there could be issues
if you specify new hinges for an existing door and/or frame, as the holes for the screws might not align. Our
specification accommodates this in the article labeled “Existing Frames”, whereby the contractor has the option
of filling the existing holes and drilling new holes to match the pattern on the new hinges, or providing blank
hinges and shop-drilling the holes to match the layout in the existing frame. There is extra money involved to
do this, so if the frame isn’t in great condition, you might consider replacing the frame while you’re at it.

Which type of hinge should you specify? For most BLDD projects, specify Type H2 for interior doors and Type
H5 for exterior doors and wet/humid areas (showers, natatoriums, near mop sinks, etc.). Use some of the other
specialty types if you have heavy or wide doors.

Continuous hinges are also available. They can assist to reduce air infiltration, minimize vandalism and even be
used to provide additional privacy (common for healthcare exam room doors). Other styles of continuous
hinges are available but not included in our master specification.

Pivots are also available as an option to hinges. Pivots can typically support more weight than hinges. Typically,
we reserve pivots for aluminum doors and specify Type P9 to be provided by the aluminum door manufacturer.

Determine the type of hinge/pivot for the first door in your Door Schedule, and note the type in the
“Hinge/Pivot” column for Hardware Group 01 in the Hardware Group Schedule.

    
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STEP 3: SECURE THE DOOR

Now that we have the door hanging in the correct position, we need to secure the opening.
This is the part where you specify the lock/latch to secure the opening. There are a number
of components that are available for securing the door, including mortise locks, cylindrical
locks, keyed lever locks, exit devices, closers, head/foot bolts, coordinating devices, electric
strikes and electromagnetic locks. We will look at each of these items individually.

MORTISE LOCKSETS
Locksets come in a variety of styles, but they all are designed to perform the
same function: to keep the door secured in the closed position.

Mortise locks (BLDD’s “ML” series) are the highest quality locks available, which
means they’re also the most expensive. A mortise lockset is completely
concealed by installing the lockset into a mortise in the edge of the door.

First, you need to determine the style and the lever design. BLDD has two Mortise Lock with Escutcheon
different styles listed in the specification: a rectangular escutcheon plate and a
wrought rose with separate cylinder. With the first option, there will be a
rectangular hole through the face of the door for the escutcheon. With the

second option, there will be two circular holes through the face of the door: one
for the cylinder and one for the lever handle (with a small escutcheon around
it). It’s really just a matter of personal preference to determine which one you
want.

For the lever style, there are multiple options. The BLDD spec has listed three
different styles that are consistent throughout all of the different locksets and
exit devices in our master specification, and all meet ADA requirements:

• Flat face Mortise Lock with Wrought 
• Flat face with return Rose and Cylinder 
• Round stem flat face – smooth curved return

Again, it’s personal preference. One advantage of the flat face with return is that it is much more difficult to get
a sleeve or a purse accidentally hooked on the lever. The flat face with return is very angular; the round stem
flat face is more graceful. Select the style that works best with the overall design of the building.

  

Flat Face Flat Face with Return Round Stem Flat Face ‐ Smooth 
Curved Return 

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If it’s the most expensive option, why specify mortise locksets? Well, it depends on the client. Some of them
insist on mortise locks because they like the durability and flexibility and are willing to pay for it. The mortise
locks are flexible because of their universal lock case, meaning that one mortise lockset can be reconfigured
without any additional parts to perform many different functions. This is ideal in educational environments
where a classroom might be reconfigured to be a computer lab, and next semester it might be faculty offices.
With the universal lock case, the owner can remove the mortise lock, and with the flick of a switch or movement
of a screw, reconfigure the lock to perform a different function.
Next up is to determine the function for your door and whether you’re specifying premium or fighter brands
throughout the specification. The functions are described in the master specification. The manufacturers have
been separated into the “premium” and “fighter” categories. Think of it as Cadillac vs. Chevrolet or Name Brand
vs. Generic. Both are BHMA Certified and contain a lot of the same parts, but some parts may be a little lower
quality in order to keep the cost in check. Select EITHER “premium” or “fighter” and be consistent throughout
the specification writing process.

CYLINDRICAL LOCKS
Cylindrical locks are less expensive than mortise locks (somewhere
around $150 to $250 each), but don’t have the flexibility of the
mortise locks. If you want to change the function of a cylindrical
lock, you’re replacing the entire lock…and that will probably cost
you more than the difference to upgrade to mortise locks initially.
You will be able to tell the difference between mortise and
cylindrical locks (cylindrical locks have the key in the lever instead of
a separate lock cylinder), so they’re typically not combined on the
same project.

If you have settled on cylindrical locksets throughout, it’s a matter of selecting the lever style (which matches

the mortise locks), selecting “premium” or “fighter” brands and determining the function for your door. 

KEYED LEVER LOCKSETS 

Keyed lever locksets are a step below cylindrical locksets. They’re
Grade 2, so they’re lower quality (see the differences under “What You
Need to Know”) and less expensive…about $50 to $100 less than a
comparably-equipped cylindrical lock. Use these sparingly for those
low-use doors that won’t suffer much abuse. Remember that Grade 2
locks are “high residential” quality, so they’re not recommended for
any public spaces. The lever styles match the cylindrical locks (even
though they have different names), so it is possible to mix and match
cylindrical and keyed lever locks in a building without people being
able to distinguish between the two…it’s the internal parts that are
different from a cylindrical lockset.

Determine the type of lockset you need for your door (ML, CL or KL), determine the function, and write
the number in the “Lockset” column for Hardware Group 01 in the Hardware Group Schedule.

If your door will have a way to secure it other than a lockset, leave this column blank and keep reading.

    
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EXIT DEVICES
An exit device is known by many other names, such as panic bar, crash bar, push bar or panic device. Its
purpose is to operate without people having to think about it. In a panic situation, they don’t have to worry
about which way to turn the lever to unlatch the door…all they have to do is apply pressure to the device and it
automatically opens. That’s why the building code requires an exit device in assembly and educational
occupancies with an occupant load of 50 or more. Although exit devices are not required in other occupancies,
it’s still a good idea to specify them on the main exits from the building. Note that if you specify an exit device, it
is against the code to install any other kind of lock on that door. That would defeat the purpose of being able to
exit quickly if there was a deadbolt or chain or any other kind of device preventing the door from opening when
pressure it applied to the exit device.

A number of different styles are available:

• Rim exit devices are designed for single doors or double doors

with a removable mullion. The exit device locks into the mullion at

the door jamb. There is a different style included in the

specification for narrow-stile doors, but note that narrow-stile

doors can cause issues with other hardware items. Therefore,

most of the time, BLDD uses a wide stile (5”) aluminum door to

ensure compatibility with all types of door hardware.

• Mortise exit devices are designed to conceal the guts of the Wide Stile Rim Lock 
hardware within the door. If you are specifying mortise locks

throughout the building, you might want to consider mortise

exit devices.

• Surface Vertical Rod exit devices are usually specified at double

doors without a mullion. Instead of locking at the jamb, they

lock at the head of the door. A vertical rod connects to the exit

device to provide locking at the head. Prior to the 2010 version

of the Americans with Disabilities Act, surface vertical rods also
came with a bottom rod to provide two-point locking. However, Wide Stile Mortise Lock 

the ADA now states (in article 404.2.10) that “swinging door and

gate surfaces within 10 inches of the finish floor or ground shall

have a smooth surface on the push side extending the full

width of the door or gate”. This has effectively eliminated the

use of the bottom rod, which is why “less bottom rod” is now

our standard for surface vertical rods. Note that without this

bottom rod, it is possible for someone to pull on the bottom of

the door hard enough to bend or break the rod and gain entry Surface Vertical Rod 
to the building.

• Concealed Vertical Rod exit devices work the same was as their

surface-mounted counterparts, but the vertical rods are

concealed within the door so the bottom rod can be used. These can be easily used on hollow metal

and aluminum doors, and can even be specified on new wood doors. Trying to retrofit a wood door in

the field to accept concealed rods is not recommended.

• Concealed Vertical Cable exit devices are similar, except the rods are replaced with braided cables.

Currently, these are patented and only available from one manufacturer.

• Dummy exit devices do not latch and have no real function. Their only purpose is if you want to

provide a consistent look between the non-locking interior vestibule doors and the locking exterior

vestibule doors.

There are six different functions listed in our master specification for exit devices. How do you know which one
to use and when?

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• Type 1 is “Exit Only”. There is no exterior hardware…no pull, no lock, nothing. This option is good when
you need an exit but don’t ever intend to have people enter the building through that door. Common
in retail stores and assembly spaces.

• Type 2 is “Dummy Trim”. Typically acts a lot like Type 1, but in this case the exit device can be dogged
down, and there is an exterior lever that will act as a pull when the exit device is dogged. Dummy trim
is typically specified at exterior entrances with multiple doors adjacent to each other. Not every door
needs to have a lock at the exterior; one could include the lock and the remaining doors could be
specified with dummy trim.

• Type 3 is “Night Latch (with exterior pull)”. Includes a keyway and an exterior pull, but will still act as a
push-pull when the exit device is dogged. This type is not recommended for surface vertical rods or
concealed vertical rods, as the force of the key required to unlock the door may cause the key to break
over time. That’s why the ES3, EC3 and ECN3 are not even option on the hardware legend. This type is
OK for rim or mortise exit devices.

• Type 4 is “Passage”. Plain and simple, no locking on this one at all (and therefore no dogging). The lever
on the opposite side always acts as a pull. This one cannot be specified at fire-rated openings where
positive latching is required.

• Type 5 is “Classroom”. Similar to the classroom locksets, you can always get out of the room but can
only enter by using the key or dogging the door from the inside.

• Type 6 is “Night Latch (with exterior lever)”. Identical to Type 3, except the outside is equipped with a
lever instead of a pull.

There are also some other options available with exit devices:

• “Dogging” is the act of retracting the latch and locking the exit device in the “in”

position, turning the door into a simple push-pull. This is typically done with a hex

head key (a.k.a. Allen wrench). A keyed cylinder can be specified for the dogging in

lieu of the hex head key for those projects where the owner wants to be able to

control who dogs the doors (since anyone with an Allen wrench can dog and

undog an exit device). Note that cylinder dogging cannot be done at fire rated Hex Head Key
doors that are required to remain latched. There is also an option if you want to

delete dogging from all doors in the project, but this is rarely used. 

• “Less Bottom Rod” is explained above in the section on Surface Vertical Rods.

• “Fire Bolt Kit” is a product of specifying exit devices without the bottom rod. It provides a second point

of contact in fire-rated doors.

• “Floor Strikes” should be specified for doors with bottom rods. It provides a place for the bottom rod to

latch.

• “Electric Latch Retraction” provides a similar function as an electric strike, but accomplishes it in a

different way. The electric strike is mounted in the frame, and releasing the strike allows the door to

open with the typical buzzing sound. Electric latch retraction does just the opposite; the power is in the

door and retracts the latch while keeping the strike in place. It is much quieter than an electric strike,

but getting power to the door requires a power transfer cable that will be visible between the frame

and the door.

• “Delayed Egress” is common at retail facilities where access is

delayed for 15 seconds before a door can be opened. Note

that some Authorities Having Jurisdiction will not allow this in

certain applications. 

• “Power Supply” is concealed above the ceiling, and is

required for any exit device component that is powered

(such as Electric Latch Retraction, Delayed Egress or Door

Position Switch). One power supply may be able to power

more than one door, which is why our specification is written Delayed Egress Device 

to provide the power supplies in the quantities needed.

    
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• “Power Transfer” provides a way

to transfer power from the frame

to the door for those components

mounted on the door that require

power. If it’s new construction, the

power transfer is generally buried

in the frame and the edge of the

door. For existing construction

where you can’t get power

through the frame or the door

(such as exterior hollow metal

frames where the frame has been Power Transfer Power Transfer (Surface Mounted) 
grouted solid), you might get a

surface-mounted pigtail to run

the wiring between the door and the frame. Electric hinges are also available but not currently included

in our hardware specification.

• “Door Position Switch” is a remote indicator to alert someone when the position of a door is changed.

Similar to some security systems, it comes with a magnetic contact in the frame and one in the door,

and will send a signal when the contact is broken. These don’t get used much, but might be handy in

conjunction with an “exit only” exit device so someone will be able to tell when a door has been

propped in the open position.

Determine the type of exit device you need for your door, determine the function, and write the
number in the “Exit Device” column for Hardware Group 01 in the Hardware Group Schedule.

CLOSERS
Door closers are also an integral part of securing the door. Closers are generally required at fire-rated doors to
insure that the door stays closed during an emergency, and at exterior doors to insure that the door stays
closed at all times.

There are three different installations for door closers defined in the BLDD specification:

Our specification dictates which type should be used and when. Generally, for interior doors, we like to see the
closer installed on the room side of the door so the corridor side is unobstructed. For exterior doors, the top
jamb installation is preferred to protect the closer from the elements and to provide some additional strength.

The debate over whether cast iron or aluminum closers are better has been around since aluminum closers
were first manufactured. In the beginning, all closers were cast iron, and so the manufacturers that made cast
iron closers contend that they’re the best. Manufacturers of aluminum closers contend that their products
weigh less and cost less than their cast iron counterparts, yet function exactly the same as cast iron closers.

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The interesting part is that most manufacturers are now offering both types (or will be in the near future) to
stay competitive in the marketplace.

So, who’s right? It’s just another one of those personal preference things. Just keep in mind that when you
select one or the other for your project, you shouldn’t allow products made from the other material to be
included during bidding, because the two products really are not an apples-to-apples comparison. Pick one
material and stick with it.

The look of the cover is another decision. Types C1 and C1A with a full metal cover are our corporate standard.
If you prefer a slimmer style cover, then types C2 and C2A are available. Note that these covers are plastic
instead of metal, and the slim style doesn’t cover the spindle…you get a plastic cap to act as the cover on the
bottom of the closer. The narrow style was designed to work with narrow stile doors so that you don’t see the
back of the closer through the glass. Since there can be other conflicts between hardware and narrow stile
doors, we usually specify the wide stile doors and closer types C1 or C1A.

Other options are also

available for door

closers. The integral stop

will limit the swing of

doors (usually pre-set to

either 90° or 105°). It’s a

good idea to specify the

integral stop at doors

where a wall stop cannot

be used and a floor stop

is not desired, such as a

door in the middle of a Closer C1/C1A  Closer Type C2/C2A 
wall or a door that could

swing in front of the

path of another door, thereby limiting egress. The hold-open arm includes a handle that can be rotated to keep

the door in the open position. Note that the hold-open handle is not accessible, and should not be used at

exterior doors or fire-rated openings. Reserve use of the hold-open arm for doors where large items will be

moved regularly through the opening.

If you need a closer at a fire-rated opening, then electromechanical Closer with Hold‐Open Arm
closer/holder types C7 and C7A are possible options. These doors effectively
hold the door in the open position and are tied to the building’s fire alarm
system, so the doors will close automatically when the fire alarm is
activated. These are typically found at cross-corridor doors or entrances to
high-traffic areas. As the specification notes, it is possible to achieve the
same function with a regular closer and an electromagnetic stop.

Determine the type of closer you need for your door and write the number in the “Closer” column for
Hardware Group 01 in the Hardware Group Schedule.

    
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HEAD AND FOOT BOLT SETS
Head and foot bolts are used on pairs of doors to secure the inactive leaf. They cannot
be used on doors located in a means of egress, but can often be found on electrical
and telecom closets where the inactive leaf can be opened to provide the required
floor space to the panel. They also cannot be used at doors where closers are required.

Different options exist for different scenarios:

• Type B1 is a set of manual surface bolts. This is the simplest and most cost- Manual Surface Bolt
effective solution, because it has to be triggered manually and because it is

surface-mounted. It’s not the most glamorous-looking piece of hardware out

there, but for a door that will be opened only occasionally (and usually hidden

inside a closet), it’s an acceptable solution. It requires the user to open the

active leaf and reach up on the inside of the active leaf to release the head bolt

and reach down to the bottom of the door to release the foot bolt. Because of

this, it doesn’t meet accessibility requirements.

• Types B2A and B2B are manual flush bolts. They function the same as the

surface bolts, but are concealed in the edge of the inactive leaf of the door near Manual Flush Bolt
the top and bottom. It requires the user to rotate the pin to release the bolts.

Because of this, these don’t meet accessibility requirements, either (because they

are installed outside the ADA reach ranges and require tight pinching or grasping

to rotate the pins). Manual flush bolts are available for both wood doors and

hollow metal doors (restricted to new doors only – for a renovation project with

existing doors, use the manual surface bolts).

• Types B3A and B3B are automatic flush bolts. As their name implies, they

automatically release when the adjacent active leaf is opened, and they lock when

the active leaf is closed or under a high heat/fire condition. If you want both doors

to be freed when you open the active leaf, then this type of bolt makes sense. If

you normally want the inactive leaf to remain in-place when the active leaf is Automatic Flush Bolts

opened, then one of the manual bolts is more appropriate.

Determine the type of head/foot bolts you need for your door and write the number in the “Head/Foot
Bolts” column for Hardware Group 01 in the Hardware Group Schedule.

COORDINATING DEVICES

If you have a pair of doors that are required to be

fire-rated, you can’t use the head/foot bolts listed

above because they wouldn’t allow the door to close

automatically as required by the building code. So

what do you if you have a pair of fire-rated wood

doors that requires an astragal to meet code? How

do you make sure that the leaf without the astragal

always closes first? That’s where a coordinating Coordinating Device

device is needed. Different styles are available; our

specification lists the “bar type” coordinator, which

is the nicest-looking option. Don’t get your hopes up too much, however; it still isn’t the prettiest thing you’ll

ever see, as it stretches across the opening just below the top of the frame.

The coordinating device is designed for a pair of fire-rated doors, each with its own closer and a “T” type
astragal installed on one door leaf. The coordinator catches both leafs when they close and slows down the
closing speed of the leaf with the astragal, allowing the other leaf to close first before the leaf with the astragal
can fully close. This way, the fire rating is maintained and you don’t end up with a door edge that’s beat up

Page 13 
 

because the wrong leaf closed first. Coordinating devices can be problematic, so they’re not recommended
unless you absolutely need them.

Note that additional mounting brackets may be required to coordinate with other pieces of door hardware
(including parallel arm closers and non fire-rated surface vertical rods), since the coordinator occupies the same
piece of real estate as the other items. This just adds to the bulkiness of the hardware at the top of the door,
which is why it’s not desirable at prominent locations. The brackets would typically be perfectly fine if the
double doors lead to a closet and the push side of the doors is rarely seen.

Determine the type of coordinating device you need for your door and write the number in the
“Mullion/Astragal/Coordinator” column for Hardware Group 01 in the Hardware Group Schedule.

ELECTRIC STRIKES
Electric strikes are specified at doors that are normally locked, yet need to
be unlocked at certain times or for specific persons, oftentimes through the
use of a remote pushbutton to unlock the door. They come with that well-
known “buzz” when the strike is released to let a person know that the door

can be opened. 

The idea behind an electric strike is that the side of the strike that keeps the
door latched and locked moves away, which esentially turns the door into a
push/pull. A common installation is a vestibule door with some kind of
intercom system so a visitor can talk to someone inside the office, and the
person inside the office can push a button (Type AC1) to release the strike
and let the person inside. Electric strikes can work with mortise locksets,
cylindrical locksets and keyed lever locksets. They can also work with keyed Electric Strike 
switches and push plates that control low energy operators, but it starts to
get tricky when you have multiple ways of opening or unlocking the door, so get your architectural hardware
consultant involved early with the project. Electric strikes are also key components of more complex access
control systems. You definitely need to get a hardware expert known as an Integrator on-board early in the
project to help you assess the situation and come up with an access control system that does everything the
owner expects it to do.

Different types of strikes are available for different frame materials. We have a limited set of options in our
specification. For retrofit applications, surface-mounted models are available (Von Duprin 6300 and HES 9600,
for example) which are ideal for situations where the existing frame is grouted solid. (Keep in mind, however,
that wiremold may be required to conceal the wiring to the strike if the frame is grouted solid or if a lintel or
other obstruction prevents hiding the wiring withing the frame.)

There is also an option to select “Fail Secure” or “Fail Safe” for each strike. These terms describe what will
happen to the door when the power fails. “Fail Secure” will keep the door secured (locked) without the
possibility of unlocking it with the pushbutton (a key can always override the system even when the power is
off, because the key will retract the latch and will allow the door to be opened). “Fail Safe” will leave the door
unlocked in the event of a power failure.

Determine the type of electric strike you need for your door and write the number in the “Electric
Strike” column for Hardware Group 01 in the Hardware Group Schedule.

    
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ELECTROMAGNETIC LOCKS
The final method of securing a
door that is included in BLDD’s
hardware specification is
electromagnetic locks. “Mag” locks
(as they’re commonly known)
include a powered component
mounted on the frame and a
magnet mounted on the face of
the door. Note that the lock will be
visible when the door is open, and
it will effectively reduce the overall
opening height because the lock is Electromagnetic Lock
typically installed on the underside
of the door head frame. Their
installation has to be coordinated with door closers and other hardware components fighting for real estate at
the top of the door, so the mag locks are usually installed near the latch side of the door. Mag locks are
powered devices that require continuous power to keep the door locked; the door automatically unlocks during
the loss of power. These locks contain no internal moving parts, so they’re very reliable and very quiet (no
“buzz” like the electric strike). Depending on the type of door and type of frame, some additional mounting
plates may be required to get the lock and magnet to align when the door is closed. Like electric strikes,
electromagnetic locks are typically installed with some kind of access control system.
Determine the type of electromagnetic lock you need for your door and write the number in the
“Electromagnetic Lock” column for Hardware Group 01 in the Hardware Group Schedule.

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STEP 4: ACCESSORIZE THE DOOR

Now that you have determined the swing of the door and how you’re going to hang it, and
have figured out the method that works best for your situation to keep the door closed, it is
now time to add other accessories to the door.

A lot of these items could be included in a subcategory named “protect the door”:

STOPS
Stops are used either to protect the adjacent wall from damage by the lockset or to hold the door open in a
certain position. Several styles are available:

Type S1 Wall Stop  Type S1H Wall Stop with Holder  Type S1H Wall Stop with Holder 
(Ives style)  (Trimco style) 

• The Type S1 wall stop is the simplest of the stops. It installs on the wall at the location where the lever

handle of the lockset would hit the face of the wall and damage one or both items. It’s the idea

solution for any door that swings against a wall when it opens. Cheap, yet effective.

• Type S1H is an automatic wall stop with holder. One component is installed on the face of the door,

and the other piece is installed on the adjacent wall. This solution works in locations where you want

the door to stay open until the holder is released, and takes the place of the dreaded wood blocks that

get stuffed under the doors and damage the veneer. Note that these stops cannot be used at fire-rated

doors, because the holder would prevent the door from closing in a fire.

• The Type S2 floor stop should be used only where no other type of stop will work, because the stop can

create a trip hazard in the middle of the room when the door is closed, and the stop can also become a

major dust collector. The high dome and low dome styles are designed work with different types of

floors. If keeping this one, retain both options so all of your bases are covered. If the door has a closer,

you can specify the closer to have an integral

stop and accomplish the same thing as you

would with the floor stop. 

• The Type S2H floor stop with holder is very

similar to the Type S1H listed above. In fact,

the portion attached to the door may be

identical. The real difference is the other

piece. Instead of being attached to the wall, it

is attached to the floor. Hence the name “floor

stop”. Type S2 Floor Stop Type S2H Floor Stop with 

Holder 

    
Page 16   
 

• The Type S3 overhead stop is another option for

those doors that open into the middle of the

room where a floor stop is not desired. It is a

surface-mounted stop that runs along the top of

the door. It is best used at those locations where

a closer is not required. If you have a closer,

specify the integral stop. We’re not saying that it’s

impossible to specify an overhead stop and a

closer on the same door, but we can guarantee Type S3 Overhead Stop

that nobody will be happy with the end product.

Plus, the separate closer and stop will cost more

than the closer with integral stop.

• The Type S3H overhead stop with hold open is

very similar to the Type S3, except there is a hold-

open device built into the stop. A common

installation for this type is in the healthcare

industry, where exam room doors are located (in

the middle of the wall) to be used as a screen Overhead Stop with Closer
between the corridor and the exam table. The

hold-open keeps the door wherever it is placed,

so staff can use the door in a variety of positions to

screen the table, and they can keep the door open to

identify that the room is available for the next patient.

• The Type S4 concealed overhead stop and Type S4H

concealed overhead stop with hold open are

essentially the same as their Type S3 and S3H

counterparts. The only difference is the bar attached to

the door. Instead of being surface mounted, it is

routed into a channel in the top edge of the door.

• The Type S5 electromagnetic holder is a way to specify

a hold-open device at a door that requires a closer.

This type of stop requires a wall adjacent to the latch

side of the door in the open position. The box mounts

on the wall, and the magnet is secured to the face of Type S5 Electromagnetic Holder 

the door (much like an electromagnetic lock). Different

box lengths for surface-mounted devices and longer arms on the door magnets for recessed devices

may be necessary depending on the distance between the door and the wall. This device is wired to

the fire alarm system. When the alarm is sounded, the magnet is released allowing the closer to

perform its job to close and latch the door. The device in our master specification allows for surface-

mounted or recessed boxes depending on the construction type. Before specifying this device, check

with the electrical engineer on the project. Many electrical engineers will include this type of stop in

their scope of work, and we end up with conflicting information specified in multiple locations.

Determine the type of stop you need for your door and write the number in the “Stop” column for
Hardware Group 01 in the Hardware Group Schedule.

Page 17 
 

PUSH/PULL SETS
A lot of times, the push/pull set is listed as type PP9 to be provided by the aluminum door manufacturer. There

are times, however, when you might want to specify pushes and pulls in other locations. Our specification lists

two options: 

• Type PP1 includes a 10” high straight pull mounted on a back plate, with

a corresponding push plate on the opposite side of the door. These are

common on multi-user toilet room doors, sometimes specified with a

deadbolt so the room can be locked while it is being cleaned.

• Type PP3 is a 10” high pull with a 2-1/2” minimum offset. It doesn’t

come with a back plate or a corresponding push. These can typically be

found at interior aluminum vestibule doors that don’t latch, and may be

paired with a dummy exit device on the opposite side of the door so the

interior doors look the same as the exterior doors with latching exit

devices. PP1 and PP3 Pulls 

Determine the type of push/pull you need for your door and write the
number in the “Push/Pull” column for Hardware Group 01 in the Hardware Group Schedule.

WEATHERSTRIPPING
Weatherstripping is important for exterior doors to keep a good seal
between the conditioned air inside the building and the extreme
temperature swings outside. We only have one type listed in the
master specification, and it’s an extruded aluminum retainer that
holds a neoprene or silicone insert. No peel and stick stuff here!

Type W1 weatherstripping is designed to be installed around the Type W1 Weatherstripping 
perimeter of the frame BEFORE other hardware components are
attached. Otherwise, if other components are installed first and there
are gaps in the weatherstripping, it defeats the purpose of having any
weatherstripping at all. In the photo shown here, the
weatherstripping was notched to fit around the closer arm, and that is
not the recommended solution. Pay attention to things like this as
you’re performing a punch list.

Determine the type of weatherstripping you need for your door
and write the number in the “Weatherstripping” column for
Hardware Group 01 in the Hardware Group Schedule.

Closer with Weatherstripping Cut

SMOKE GASKETING

Smoke gasketing is very similar to weatherstripping, but its intent is to

stop the passage of smoke through the crack between the door and frame. The International Building Code

requires smoke gasketing at fire-rated doors in corridors and smoke barriers.

• Type SGA1 is a surface-mounted
astragal designed for a pair of doors.
The astragal gets mounted to the
face of both door leafs, with the
brush from both sides overlapping to Type SGA1 Astragal
provide a smoke seal between the
two doors.

    
Page 18   
 

• Type SGP1 is actually the same product as weatherstripping Type

W1 noted above, and gets installed around the perimeter of the

door.

• Type SGP2 is a peel-and-stick option that is less bulky than SGP1,

but can easily be removed or will simply fall off over time and Type SGP2 Perimeter Smoke Gasketing

defeat the intent of the product, so it is not recommended. 

Determine the type of smoke gasketing you need for your door and write the number in the “Smoke
Gasketing” column for Hardware Group 01 in the Hardware Group Schedule.

THRESHOLDS
Thresholds stop the rain and snow from working their way into the building
from the exterior, and they also hide the joint between the exterior/interior
slabs and/or the foundation wall. Many types are included in BLDD’s master
specification:

• Type T1 is a simple 5” wide x 1/4” high saddle threshold that meets

ADA requirements and should work just fine at exterior doors

where there is some kind of protection from the elements over the Type T1/T2/T3 Threshold

door.

• Type T2 is very similar to Type T1, except the height is 1/2”. Specify

this one at those hollow metal doors that lead directly to a stoop

with no overhead protection, or other doors that function mainly as

“exit only”.

• Type T3 is the same height as Type T1, but is 2” wider (7” total

width). It’s simply another option to cover the gap in the floor. Type T4 Threshold 
• Type T4 is a saddle threshold with a thermal break. Ideally, if your

door frame has a thermal break, then you should specify the

thermal break for the threshold as well.

• Type T5 is called a panic exit threshold. It has a vertical component

with a neoprene insert that seals against the door. It’s a good

alternative to specifying a saddle threshold and a door bottom seal

(which doesn’t get much use these days because of the ADA

requirement for the push side of the door to be flush), but is Type T5 Threshold 

probably not the best solution if you expect a lot of wheelchair

traffic through the door.

• Type T6 is NOT ADA COMPLIANT. This threshold should only be

specified in non-accesible locations, like the door from a stairwell to

the roof that is there strictly for maintenance access. The vertical

offset will help to keep snow out of the building, since it may not be Type T6 Threshold 
possible to get on the roof to remove the drifting snow.

Determine the type of threshold you need for your door and write the number in the “Threshold”
column for Hardware Group 01 in the Hardware Group Schedule.

Page 19 
 

DOOR BOTTOM SEALS
Door bottom seals are another way of keeping the elements out your building. Keep in mind, however, that the
ADA will no longer allow these to be mounted on the push side of a door because of the requirement that the
bottom 10” of the door must not have any components that project more than 1/16”. So, about the only place
you can use these anymore is at a door that doesn’t have to meet ADA, such as a rooftop access door that
utilizes a T6 threshold. In that case, specifying the door bottom seal may be a belt and suspenders approach,
but it still may not be a bad idea if it keeps snow and rain out of the building.

There are two options in the master specification:

• Type DS1 is surface-mounted with a neoprene seal, and extends across the full width of the bottom of
the door. The neoprene is designed to seal against the threshold.

• Type DS2 is an automatic seal. It is designed so that when the door closes, the seal drops out of the
bottom to seal against the threshold or the floor. When the door opens, the seal retracts into the
surface-mounted housing. You may have a problem, though, if the seal doesn’t function properly.

Type DS1 Door Bottom Seal Type DS2 Door Bottom Seal 

Determine the type of door bottom seal you need for your door and write the number in the “Door
Bottom Seal” column for Hardware Group 01 in the Hardware Group Schedule.

DOOR PROTECTION
The purpose of door protection is to keep the door from being marred with those pesky housekeeping carts or
other items that seem to get rammed into doors. Our master specification lists four options for kickplates and
one option for door edge protection:

    
Page 20   
 

• Type K1 is a kickplate mounted at the bottom of the door on the push

side. Options exist for the height.

• Type K2 is identical to type K1, but adds a second plate on the pull side of

the door.

• Type K3 is an armor plate, which is identical to a kick plate except for the

height. This generally covers almost half of the height of the door, and

should be specified to coordinate with the owner’s equipment. Note that

the height also needs to be coordinated with the other hardware and

with any glazing in the door, as you don’t want to have to notch the top of

the armor plate to accommodate something else. Type EP1 Edge Protection
• Type K4 adds a second Type K3 armor plate to the pull side.

• Mop plates and stretcher plates are not included in the BLDD hardware

master specification.

• Type EP1 edge protection is common in healthcare applications where a gurney could make contact

with the edge of a door in the open position. The edge protection in our specification is a U-shaped

channel surface-mounted to the edge of the door. If there is a bevel on the edge of the door, the edge

protection will be angled to match. Recessed edge protection is also available (although not included in

our specification because we normally specify it in conjunction with armor plates). 

Determine the type(s) of door protection you need for your door and write the number(s) in the “Door
Protection” column for Hardware Group 01 in the Hardware Group Schedule.

MULLIONS AND ASTRAGALS
Removable mullions should only be specified at one or two doors in a project, and only at those locations
where large items are likely to be moved in or out on a regular basis and an overhead door is not available.
They should not be specified as part of the “typical” hardware for every set of exterior double doors in the
project, particularly if security is a concern. Removable mullions are not as secure as fixed mullions, so rather
than pairs of doors at a building entrance, consider a series of single doors (all hinged to open the same way)
with a fixed mullion adjacent to each door. Or, consider an extra-wide door in one location to be used for the
movement of large items…just make sure that the path those items will travel inside is wide enough.

If you’re stuck on specifying a removable mullion, our specification
includes a few different types:

• Type M1 is a 2” x 3” steel section that sits behind the pair of
doors in the closed position (so don’t increase the width of
the frame to accommodate the mullion), and allows rim exit
devices to be specified on both leafs of the door. When the
mullion is removed, neither leaf will lock. Note that with the
mullion in place, the effective width of each leaf is reduced by
about 1” to accommodate the mullion, so keep that in mind if
the opening will see a lot of wheelchair traffic. Removing the
mullion is as simple as removing a couple of screws and
tilting the mullion out of the frame so it can be lifted out of
place. Making sure it gets re-installed properly is another
issue.

• Type M2 functions the same was as Type M1, but adds a keyed cylinder Removable Mullion
to limit the number of people who can remove the mullion. Both of
these options should work at doors that do not need power in the jamb,
but will not work at doors with electric strikes.

• Type M3 is like Type M2 but also includes a wiring harness for an electric strike or other electrified
hardware located in the mullion. Use this only if specifically requested by the Owner or if you have no
other option for moving large items into the building, as there will be no security when the mullion has

Page 21 
 

been removed, and the strike may not operate (leaving the opening as a push-pull) if the wiring
harness is not plugged back in correctly to make good contact. There can also be issues with the strike
in the mullion not aligning properly with the latch on the door, which is why we don’t recommend the
use of this item.

Type A1 Astragal  Type A2 Astragal Type A2 Astragal 

Where an astragal is required by the building code, the Type A1 listed in our specification (commonly known as
a “T” type astragal because of its shape) should meet the intent of the code. Astragals are common at double-
egress cross corridor doors in smoke barriers, particularly in healthcare and senior living projects. The astragal
seals the gap between the door leafs when both leafs are closed, thereby preventing the spread of smoke from
one section of the building to another. The astragal is attached to the edge of the door, and the silicone or
neoprene seal creates the seal to the adjacent door.

The Type A2 astragal (sometimes called a split astragal) is desgined for a specialized location, and is ideal for an
exterior double-door without a mullion where both leafs need to be open to move equipment (like the door
from a high school band room leading to the football field). If you specified a Type A1 astragal here, the wrong
door would always be closing first. So, you’d have to add one of those pesky coordinating devices to correct that
problem. But, there’s a simpler solution. The A2 astragal mounts to the face of each leaf of the door. When the
doors close, magnets in the edge of the astragal attract each other and form a tight seal. When pressure is
applied to one leaf of the door to open it, the magnet is released.

Determine the type(s) of mullion or astragal you need for your door and write the number(s) in the
“Mullions/Astragals/Coordinators” column for Hardware Group 01 in the Hardware Group Schedule.

LATHER. RINSE. REPEAT.

Now that you have determined the hardware for the first door on your project, start over with step 1 to
determine the hardware for the next door. If everything about a door (including the hand of the door and all
hardware components) is identical to a group that has already been defined, then use that same group number
to identify the new door. (That’s how the hardware suppliers will organize their submittal, so if you follow the
same system it will be much easier to check the shop drawings.) If ANYTHING is different (even if it’s just the
swing of the door), it gets a different group number. You can either give it an entirely different number, or you
can start creating sub group numbers (3A for a right hand door with certain hardware; 3B for a left hand door
with the same hardware). Continue this process until you have identified a hardware group for each door on
the project.

    
Page 22   
 

PULLING IT ALL TOGETHER

All that work and we have only finished one page in the hardware specification? What about the other 50+
pages?

It may not look like it on paper, but you have already done the bulk of the work. The rest of the editing is mainly
to delete those items that you didn’t use or are otherwise not applicable to your project. Follow the editor’s
notes; there may be items that can be deleted even if they’re not in blue text. Take your time to read through
the entire specification, and edit as necessary to customize the specification for your project:

WORK INCLUDES: Delete the items that are not included in the Hardware Group Schedule
RELATED WORK: Delete the items that are not included in the Hardware Group Schedule
REFERENCES: Delete the BHMA references for the items that are not included in the Hardware
Group Schedule
MANUFACTURERS: Save this for the end after you have edited the rest of Part 2; delete manufacturers
that are not specified elsewhere in the section
LOCK CYLINDERS: Select ONE of the FIVE different options (organized from lowest to highest cost) and
delete the others. The standard tumbler is the least expensive, but it gives the
contractor access to the final keys that will be used to secure the building. The
construction key alternative allows the contractor to use a different key to keep the
doors unlocked during construction. A portion of the lock then breaks away to render
the construction key useless and to allow the final key to work in the lock. The
interchangeable core allows the core to be easily removed and replaced without
moving the entire lock. The high-security cylinders are highly pick-resistant and
provide the owner with complete control over the duplication of keys.

Standard 6‐Pin Tumbler Interchangeable Core High‐Security Cylinder

COMPONENTS: Now that you have the Group Hardware schedule completed, it’s easy to edit the
FINISHES: article for each hardware component. Simply delete the items that aren’t listed in the
schedule. Note that for some items you will need to make a decision on
INSTALLATION: manufacturers. Once complete, edit the “Manufacturers” article in Part 1 to delete
LEGEND: those who do not appear elsewhere in the specification.
Determine the finish(es) required. Generally, all interior hardware utilizes the same
finish. Note that there will be some minor differences between manufacturers, and
painted finishes will resemble the plated items but will not match them. If your
project includes existing hardware to remain, determine the existing finish and
specify the new hardware to match. Hardware at exterior doors could be different,
and is easy to separate if you specify all hardware for aluminum doors to be provided
by the aluminum door manufacturer in section 08 4113.
Delete references to components that have not been specified.
Delete item that are not specified in Part 2 of the section.

As always, if you have any questions along the way, feel free to contact [email protected] for
assistance, or contact one of the architectural hardware consultants listed on the first page of the
hardware master specification.

Page 23