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Borneo Travel Guidebook, Lonely Planet, 3rd Edition June 2013.

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Published by Gerahan Novianto, 2016-09-10 02:41:48

Borneo Travel Guide

Borneo Travel Guidebook, Lonely Planet, 3rd Edition June 2013.

Keywords: Lonely Planet,Indonesia,Borneo,Travel Guide


DIRECTORY A–Z. . . . 300 TRANSPORT. . . . . . . . 311

Accommodation. . . . . . . . . 300 GETTING THERE &
Business Hours . . . . . . . . . 301 AWAY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
Children. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 Air. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
Customs Sea. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
Regulations. . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 GETTING AROUND. . . . . . . . 312
Electricity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 Air. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312
Bicycle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312
Embassies & Boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312
Consulates . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303 Bus, Van & Taxi. . . . . . . . . . 313
Food. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 Car & Motorcycle. . . . . . . . 315
Gay & Lesbian Hitching. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316
Travellers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 Local Transport. . . . . . . . . . 316
Insurance. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316
Internet Access. . . . . . . . . . 304 Train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316
Legal Matters . . . . . . . . . . . 304
Maps. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 HEALTH. . . . . . . . . . . . 317
Money. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305
Public Holidays. . . . . . . . . . 306 Before You Go. . . . . . . . . . . 317
Safe Travel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 In Borneo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318
Telephone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
Time. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 LANGUAGE . . . . . . . . 321
Toilets. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308
Tourist GLOSSARY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326
Information. . . . . . . . . . . . . 308
Travellers with
Disabilities. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308
Visas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308
Volunteering. . . . . . . . . . . . 310
Women Travellers. . . . . . . . 310


»»In Malaysia and Brunei,
most room rates include
the 10% service charge.
If you’re unsure if a rate is
all-i­nclusive, ask if the quote
is ‘plus-plus’ – a ‘yes’ means
the service charge and taxes
have not been factored in.

Directory Local Hotels
»»The island’s small hotels –
Accommodation International- in Malaysia often run by
Standard Hotels people of Chinese ancestry –
Accommodation in Bor- have long been the mainstay
neo runs the gamut from »»All of Borneo’s major of the domestic hospitality
international-standard hotels cities have hotels with the market. The more salubrious
to upland Dayak longhouses, full range of mod cons and ones are a decent option for
which themselves range from amenities, but standards budget travellers (some that
mod-con central to wood- vary, from topnotch in we don’t mention double as
and-palm structures deep in K­ uching, Kota Kinabalu (KK), brothels). Starting at about
the jungle. In smaller towns, Bandar Seri Begawan (BSB) US$17 for a double room in
on outlying islands and in and Balikpapan to close-but- Sarawak and Sabah, they’re
the hinterlands, your options no-cigar in places like Miri generally fairly spartan.
may be limited to very simple and Sibu. »»Showers and toilets are
lodgings. Sabah and Sarawak usually en suite, but may be
have the best range of »»All but a few top-end hotels down the hall for cheaper
accom­modation, particularly are run by local companies rooms.
in the upper brackets, while rather than the worldwide »»Some places ask you to
Kalimantan has fewer top- chains, and many are leave a deposit for the TV
end hotels and resorts. Bru- oriented primarily towards remote.
nei boasts one of the world’s domestic business travellers. »»Before you check in, make
most opulent hotels but has sure your room is ­properly
limited budget options. »»Booking online is the way ventilated (ideally with a
to go at most of these places, ­window) and hasn’t taken on
On the ceilings of some and you’ll often find offers a dank tropical fug.
hotel rooms, arrows point well below rack rates – in
towards Mecca so Muslim Malaysia, excellent rooms Resorts
guests know which direction can be found for less than
to face when praying. US$100 per night and »»Some places that style
sometimes much less, and themselves as resorts have
in Kalimantan luxury comes plenty of seaside (or jungle)
even cheaper. activities and impeccable
service, but others cater
BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE mainly for the domestic
business-conference market.
For more accommodation reviews by Lonely Planet »»For a relaxing, resort-
authors, check out style holiday in Sabah, you
You’ll find independent reviews, as well as recommen- can choose from several
dations on the best places to stay. Best of all, you can excellent seaside resorts in
book online. and near KK, or head to an
offshore island such as Pulau
Mantanani, Pulau M­ anukan,
Pulau Tiga or Layang
Layang, or the islands of the
S­ emporna Archipelago.
»»Sarawak’s best-known
resort area is the Santubong
Peninsula but, to be frank,
this isn’t southern Thailand.
»»Brunei will blow you away
with the over-the-top Empire
Hotel & Country Club, or you
can relax at the jungle lodge
in Ulu Temburong National


eral seaside and island
resorts, including places in The following price ranges refer to a double room with
Balikpapan and on Nabucco private bathroom, except in some budget places.
and Nunukan Islands in the
Derawan Archipelago. SABAH & BRUNEI KALIMANTAN Directory A–Z B usiness H ours
Guesthouses $ less than less than less than
& Backpacker RM100 B$60 250,000Rp
Accommodation $$ RM100–
400 B$60– 250,000–
»»Malaysian Borneo’s main $$$ more than 150 800,000Rp
tourist cities offer laid-back RM400
accommodation designed more than more than
for visitors on a budget. Ideal B$150 800,000Rp
for meeting fellow travellers,
these places generally offer Homestays Business Hours
a choice of dorm beds or
small private rooms (usually »»Sabah and Kalimantan »»Opening hours for
with shared bathrooms), and have plenty of welcoming eateries vary widely. Many
also have a common area for homestays offering good restaurants open from
lounging, an internet termi- value and a local vibe. around 11.30am to 10pm
nal or two, a basic kitchen »»Brunei’s homestays tend or so. Kopitiam and kedai
and, if you’re lucky, a wash- to cater to tour groups and kopi (Borneo’s ubiquitous
ing machine and a rooftop domestic tourists with their coffee shops; ie no-frills
garden for hanging out in the own cars. restaurants) that cater to
evening. Some rent bicycles »»Sarawak’s tourism author- the breakfast crowd open
and conduct tours of local ities have been encouraging very early – well before
sights; for many it’s a point villagers to open homestays dawn – but may close in the
of pride to provide up-to-the- but haven’t always quite mid-afternoon or even before
minute travel information nailed the right mix of lunch. Others (generally the
(eg regarding transport). training, infrastructure and newer ones) start service
»»Dorm beds start at about quality control. Some of later in the morning and stay
US$5 per night, while private Sarawak’s homestays are open until 9pm or 10pm.
rooms are from US$17. If you superb (eg in the Kelabit »»Bars usually open around
want your own room, cheap Highlands), while others are dinner time and close at 2am.
hotels are often better value. guest-ready only on paper, »»Bank hours are gener-
»»Because many guest­ with rundown facilities, hosts ally 10am to 3pm or 4pm on
houses (especially in who speak no English and weekdays and 9.30am to
Kuching) are in converted nothing to do. 11.30am on Saturday.
commercial buildings and old »»Shop hours are variable,
shophouses, not all rooms Camping although small shops are
have windows. This might generally open Monday to
work with proper ­ventilation, »»In many national parks, Saturday from 9am to 6pm.
but in some establishments camping is permitted only Major department stores,
the rooms are musty enough near park headquarters. shopping malls, Chinese
to choke a horse. »»If you pitch your tent in emporiums and some large
»»Kalimantan does not yet the vicinity of a longhouse, stores are open from around
have a hostel scene, so back- residents may get the 10am until 9pm or 10pm
packers looking for cheap impression you’re spurn- seven days a week.
digs usually bed down in an ing their hospitality. Some
inexpensive hotel or losmen. travellers pitch their tent »»Government offices are
on the longhouse’s covered usually open Monday to
Longhouses verandah. Friday from 8am to 4.15pm,
»»A two-season tent with and on Saturday from 8am
Until the last decade or two, mosquito netting is ideal, to 12.45pm. Most close for
passers-by were always and a summer-weight sleep- lunch from 12.45pm to 2pm;
welcome to stay overnight ing bag or just a bag liner will in Sarawak the Friday lunch
at longhouses, the age-old usually suffice unless you break is from 12.15pm to
dwellings of many (but intend to hike at altitude. 2.45pm to accommodate
not all) of the indigenous Choose a site that won’t be Muslim prayers at the
­peoples of Borneo. But this inundated if it rains. mosque. In Brunei
is changing, especially in
­Malaysia. For details on Day-
ak culture and the etiquette
of staying over, see p278.


Directory A–Z C hildren PRACTICALITIES

»»Malaysia, Indonesia and Brunei use the metric system.
»»There are two English-language newspapers published in Borneo: the Borneo Post
(, the main English-language daily in Sabah and Sarawak,
and the New Sarawak Tribune (
»»Also available in Malaysian Borneo is the Kuala Lumpur–based New Straits Times
»»In Brunei, the Borneo Bulletin ( is filled with local and
international news, none of it locally controversial. News stories refer to the sultan as
‘the benevolent ruler’ so no prizes for guessing that the paper steers clear of hard-
hitting investigative reporting.
»»Radio Televisyen Brunei (RTB) handles almost all domestic TV and radio broadcasts,
including English news broadcasts on the Pilihan channel (95.9FM and 96.9FM).
»»Top-end hotels usually have satellite-TV relays of CNN, BBC, Star and other English-
language stations.
»»Brunei’s tough anti-smoking laws ban puffing not only inside shops and malls, but
also in outdoor markets and around food stalls.

government offices are are a good bargain as they from the Koran, piranha fish
closed on Friday and Sunday. charge by room rather and anything made in Israel.
»»During Ramadan, business than by number of people. »»Non-Muslim visitors to
and office hours are often However, cots are not widely Brunei, provided they’re
shortened and Muslim- available in cheaper accom- 18 or older, are allowed to
owned restaurants may modation. Some top-end import 12 cans of beer and
close during daylight hours. places allow two children two bottles of wine or
In Brunei, many offices end under 12 to stay with their spirits for personal con-
the day at 2pm from Monday parents at no extra charge. sumption. There is no longer
to Thursday and at 11.30am »»In Kalimantan, only an allowance for cigarettes,
on Friday and Saturday. Balikpapan has hotels that which are are taxed at a
specially cater to children rate of B$5 per pack of 20
Children (eg by offering babysitting (B$0.25 each).
and activities). »»For travellers coming
»»Malaysian Borneo and »»Baby food, formula and from Malaysia, Singapore’s
Brunei are great for family nappies (diapers) are widely duty-free liquor allow-
travel, especially if the kids available, but stock up on ance is zero. Travellers to
like monkeys, flowers, bugs such items before heading Singapore, whatever their
and vibrantly variegated to remote destinations or port of embarkation, must
temples, food and fauna. islands. declare all cigarettes they
Babies will attract a lot of »»Lonely Planet’s Travel with are carryi­ng. Theoretically,
adoring attention. Children is packed with use- failing to declare even one
»»Destinations with facilities ful information. pack of smokes can incur a
and activities for children S$200 fine.
include Kota Kinabalu (KK), Customs
Sandakan and Sepilok in Regulations Electricity
Sabah; and Kuching, the
Santubong Peninsula, Bako »»Tourists to Malaysia and The electricity supply is
National Park, Semeng- Indonesia can bring up to 1L 220V AC, 50Hz. Sarawak and
goh Nature Reserve and of liquor and 200 cigarettes Sabah (Malaysia) and Bru-
Gunung Mulu National Park duty free. Signs at Malaysian nei use UK-style plugs with
in Sarawak. airports inform visitors that three massive square pins.
»»In Malaysia, children items not allowed into the Kalimantan (Indonesia) uses
receive discounts for country include daggers, European-style plugs with
­attractions and public cloth decorated with verses two round prongs.
­transport. Chinese hotels

220V/230V/50Hz Level 10, Wisma Great Eastern, 303Directory A–Z E mbassies & C onsulates
65 Jln Gaya, Kota Kinabalu) Dutch Consulate
24V/50Hz Honorary consul; report (%337 7285/2579; fax 337
emergencies to the High 4018; Brunei Shell Petroleum,
Embassies & Commission in KL. Jln Utara, Panaga, Seria) Hon-
Consulates Indonesian Consulate Kota orary consul.
Kinabalu (Map p42; %088- French Embassy
Sabah 218600; Lg Kemajuan, Kara- (Map p200; %222 0960; www
munsing; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri);; Units 301-
Australian Consulate (Map Tawau (off Map p98; %089- 306, Kompleks Jalan Sultan,
p42; %088-267151, in KL 03- 752969, 089-772052; Jln Sinn Jln Sultan)
2146 5555; www.malaysia Onn; h9am-noon & 1-3pm) German Embassy; Suite 10.1, UK Consulate (Map p42; (Map p200; %222 5547;
%088-251775, 24hr in KL 03- www.bandar-seri-begawan
2170 2200; www.ukinmalaysia.; 2nd fl, Unit 2.01, Honorary consul; Block A, Yayasan Complex,
contact the High Commis- Jln Pretty)
sion in KL for emergency Indonesian Embassy
travel documents. Consul (%233 0180; http://
can visit UK citizens who bandarseribegawan.kemlu.go
are in hospital or prison. .id; Lot 4498, Simpang 528,
Jln Muara, Kampung Sungai
Sarawak Hanching)
Malaysian Embassy
Australian Consulate (%238 1095-7;
(%082-313388, in KL 03-2146 .my/web/brn_begawan; No 61,
5555; www.malaysia.embassy. Simpang 336, Jln Kebangsaan); E39 Level 2, Taman Sri New Zealand Consulate
Sarawak Mall, Jln Tunku Abdul (%222 2422/5880; www.mfat
Rahman, Kuching) Honorary; c/o Deloitte & Touche,
consul; report emergencies 5th fl, Wisma Hajjah Fatimah,
to the embassy in KL. 22-23 Jln Sultan) Honorary
Indonesian Consulate consul.
(%082-460734; www.kemlu.go Philippine Embassy
.id; Jln Stutong, Kuching; hvisa (Map p200; %224 1465/6;
applications 9am-noon Mon-Fri, www.philippine-embassybrunei
visa collections 3-5pm Mon-Fri, .com; Simpang 336-17, Diplo-
closed Malaysian & Indonesian matic Enclave, Jln Kebangsaan)
holidays) To get here from Singaporean Embassy
Saujana Bus ­Station (RM2), (%226 2741;
take City Public Link bus K8 brunei; No 8, Simpang 74, Jln
(every 30 to 45 minutes) to Subok)
Jln Song/Friendship Park or UK High Commission (Map
Sarawak Transport Compa- p200; %222 2231/3121; www
ny’s buses 8G1, 8G2 or 8G3.; 2nd
A taxi from the centre costs fl, Unit 2.01, Block D, Yayasan
RM25 one-way. Complex, Jln Pretty)
US Embassy
Brunei (%238 4616; http://brunei; Simpang 336-
All embassies and high com- 52-16-9, Diplomatic Enclave,
missions are in Bandar Seri Jln Kebangsaan) About 5km
Begawan (BSB) or its sub- northeast of downtown BSB.
urbs unless otherwise noted.
Australian High Commis- Kalimantan
sion (Map p200; %222 9435;
www.bruneidarussalam.em- Malaysian Consulate; 6th fl, Dar Takaful (%0561-736 061;
IBB Utama, Jln Pemancha) .my/web/idn_pontianak; Jln
Canadian High Commis- Perdana No 001, Pontianak)
sion (Map p200; %222 0043;; 5th fl, Jalan
McArthur Bldg, 1 Jln McArthur)


EATING PRICE RANGES Malaysia’s Chinese hotels,
are a mixed bag, though
The following price ranges are for the cheapest non- more and more offer wi-fi.
vegetarian main dish on the menu, plus a starter and »»Internet cafes (that double
a drink. as video-game parlours)
can still be found in cities
Directory A–Z Food SABAH & BRUNEI KALIMANTAN and large towns, but they’re
SARAWAK becoming thin on the ground
$ less than less than less than as smartphones proliferate.
RM10 B$6 50,000Rp Access usually costs US$1
$$ RM10– per hour or less.
50 B$6– 50,000– »»Western-style coffee shops
$$$ more than 16 200,000Rp and an increasing number
RM50 of other eateries are wired
more than more than for wi-fi.
B$16 200,000Rp »»Areas without internet
access include many of­
Food »»Homosexuality is not B­ orneo’s offshore islands and
­illegal in Indonesia but huge swaths of the interior.
»»A splendid array of deli- ­Kalimantan is fairly conserv-
cious cuisines are cooked ative in these matters, so Legal Matters
up by Borneo’s many ethnic obviously ‘out’ behaviour is
groups (see p281). a very bad idea. »»In Malaysia, certain drug
»»During the month of Ram- crimes carry a ‘mandatory
adan, Muslims are forbidden Insurance death sentence’, and when
by Sharia law to eat or drink entering Brunei you’ll see
from dawn to sunset. But »»Do not travel without travel Singaporesque signs reading
even in conservative Brunei, insurance. Before you buy a ‘Warning: Death for drug
some restaurants continue to policy, check the fine print traffickers under Brunei law’.
serve food to non-Muslims. to see if it excludes ‘risky’ Indonesia also has harsh
activities, such as scuba penalties for the smuggling
Gay & Lesbian diving, mountain climbing or possession of drugs.
Travellers or caving. If you’d like to do »»Gambling and possessing
overnight trekking or visit re- pornography are punishable
»»Malaysia is by and large a mote areas, such as Sabah’s by severe penalties.
socially conservative society Maliau Basin Conservation »»It is illegal to work without
and ‘out’ behaviour is looked Area, make sure your plan a proper working visa.
upon disapprovingly; we covers emergency helicopter »»The sale and public
strongly suggest discretion. evacuation. consumption of alcohol is
According to the Australian »»Worldwide travel insurance forbidden in Brunei.
government website www. is available at www.lonely »»Under Indonesian law, you, ‘homo- must carry identification at
sexual acts between males You can buy, extend and all times.
are illegal and penalties claim online anytime – even
include corporal punishment if you’re already on the road. Maps
and long prison sentences.
Homosexual acts between Internet Access Small-scale road maps of
women may be considered Borneo, some available
an “act of gross indecency »»Wi-fi is available at virtu- ­online, are published by
with another” and penalties ally all top-end hotels and s­ everal companies:
include imprisonment’. backpackers guesthouses, World Express Map-
»»Brunei, a devoutly Muslim at least in the lobby, though ping Sdn Bhd (www.wems.
country, has an even sterner some fancy places have the Based in Johor
outlook. According to www. cheek to charge outra- Bahru, Peninsular Malay-, ‘con- geous sums to go online. sia. Publishes serviceable
sensual homosexual acts These places almost always 1:900,000-scale maps of
between adults (of either have one or more internet Sabah and Sarawak (sold in
sex) are illegal and penalties computers, for which there’s most bookshops in Malay-
include prison sentences’. often a nominal charge. sian Borneo) that include
Midrange places, including insets of major cities.


Periplus (www.periplus Money Brunei Directory A–Z M oney
.com) Publishes 1:1,000,000-
scale maps of Sabah and Tipping is not practised »»The Brunei dollar (B$)
Sarawak that include city much in Borneo. is available in denomina-
and town maps. tions of B$1, B$5, B$10,
Globetrotter (www Sabah & Sarawak B$50, B$100, B$500 and B$1000 and, believe it or
Has a 1:1,300,000-scale »»Malaysia’s currency is not, B$10,000. Thanks to the
map covering both Sabah the ringgit (RM, for Ringgit 1967 Currency Interchange-
and Sarawak. Malaysia, or MYR), which ability Agreement between
Nelles Verlag (www is divided into 100 sen. Brunei and Singapore, the Based Banknote denominations are two countries’ dollars are
in ­Munich. Produces a RM1, RM5, RM10, RM50 and worth exactly the same and
1:500,000-scale map of RM100. can be used freely in both
the entire island entitled »»The ringgit used to be countries. Singaporean
Indonesia: Kalimantan, known as the Malaysian banknotes (with the possible
East Malaysia & Brunei. dollar (M$) and Malaysians exception of S$2, which has
Reise Know-How (www sometimes still refer to a no Bruneian counterpart) Publishes ringgit as a dolar. To further are universally accepted in
a 1:200,000-scale map of confuse things, in Bahasa Brunei, and Brunei bank­
the entire island (2011). Malaysia, Singapore and notes can be used almost
Brunei dollars are known as everywhere in Singapore.
»»Getting hold of accurate, ringgit. To celebrate the pact’s 40th
up-to-date topographical »»The amount of Malaysian a­ nniversary, a commemora-
maps of Borneo is nearly im- currency you are allowed tive B$20/S$20 note was
possible. Malaysia still keeps to bring into or take out of issued in 2007.
most hi-res maps classified, the country is limited to »»For currency exchange,
partly as a holdover from the RM1000, a legacy of the 1997 moneychangers are gener-
Konfrontasi with Indonesia Asian financial crisis. As a ally a better bet than banks,
(way back in the 1960s), and result, outside of Malaysia though some places in BSB
partly to make it difficult for the exchange rates for ringgit have a pretty hefty spread
indigenous groups to pursue are often poor. between their buy and sell
land claims against logging »»ATMs are widely available rates.
companies. Brunei doesn’t in cities, towns and big-city »»ATMs are widely available,
officially release any of its airports but not in rural ­areas. though not all take inter­
maps to non-Bruneians, and Some ATMs do not take inter- national credit/debit cards.
accurate maps of Kaliman- national cards. Many banks »»Major credit cards are
tan are simply impossible are able to do cash advances widely accepted.
to get. at the counter.
»»The most user-friendly »»Credit cards can be used Kalimantan
map of Brunei is the tourist at upscale hotels and restau-
office’s free Official Map of rants, though some places »»Indonesia’s currency is the
Brunei Darussalam. may only take cards with rupiah (Rp). Banknotes come
»»Google Earth ( embedded SIM chips, ruling in denominations of 1000Rp,
.com/earth) is a very useful out lots of plastic issued in 2000Rp, 5000Rp, 10,000Rp,
resource, providing a fairly North America. 20,000Rp, 50,000Rp and
clear overview of river and »»Banknotes in US, Austral- 100,000Rp (sounds like a lot,
road networks, particularly ian and Singapore dollars but it’s worth just US$11).
along the northern coast. For and pounds sterling are the Coins include 50Rp, 100Rp,
those planning a trek into the easiest to exchange. Money- 200Rp, 500Rp and 1000Rp;
sticks, it offers the best way changers, some of which also newer ones are lightweight
to check the extent of take other currencies, can aluminium, older ones are
remaining jungle cover. be found in cities and large either bronze-coloured or
Google Earth has especially towns, and even smaller bi-metal.
clear images of many of towns often have a shop that »»ATMs can be found pretty
urban areas. For Brunei, it’s will change foreign currency. much everywhere this guide
easily the best supplement Some banks aren’t keen goes except the Upper
to the maps in this book. on handling foreign cash, Mahakam and the Derawan
»»The coverage of Borneo by and small-town branches Archipelago.
Google Maps (http://maps may not handle exchange »»All major cities have is spotty at best. t­ ransactions at all. exchange bureaux and/or
banks that handle foreign

306 Directory A–Z P ublic H olidays Hari Raya Puasa (Eid Hari Raya Aidil Adha
»»In general, credit cards are a­ l-Fitr) End of Ramadan; 15 October 2013, 4 October
accepted at midrange and 8 August 2013, 28 July 2014, 2014, 23 September 2015
top-end hotels, as well as at 17 July 2015 Islamic New Year 4 Novem-
the most fancy restaurants. Independence Day ber 2013, 25 October 2014,
31 August 14 October 2015
Public Holidays Sabah Head of State’s Christmas Day 25 December
Birthday (Sabah) First
The dates of Muslim, Saturday in October Kalimantan
­Buddhist and Hindu holidays, Sarawak Head of State’s
as well as some Christian Birthday (Sarawak) Tahun Baru Masehi
festivals, follow lunar or 8 September (New Year’s Day) 1 January
lunisolar calendars and so Hari Raya Aidiladha Maulid Nabi Muhammed
vary relative to the Gregorian (Eid al-Adha) 15 October (Prophet’s Birthday)
(Western) calendar. Muslim 2013, 4 October 2014, 13 January 2014, 3 January
holidays fall 11 or 12 days 23 September 2015 2015, 23 December 2015
earlier each year; their final Malaysia Day 23 October Tahun Baru Imlek ­
dates are determined by the Deepavali (not in Sarawak (Chinese New Year)
sighting of the moon and or Pulau Labuan) 3 Novem- 31 January 2014, 19 Febru-
therefore may vary slightly ber 2013, 23 October 2014, ary 2015, 8 F­ ebruary 2016
relative to the dates below. 11 November 2015 Hari Raya Nyepi (Balinese
The dates we give for some Awal Muharram (Muslim Day of Silence) 12 March
other religious holidays are New Year) 4 November 2013, 31 March 2014,
also approximate. Many 2013, 25 October 2014, 21 March 2015
r­ eligious celebrations begin 14 October 2015 Wafat Yesus Kristus (Good
the night before the dates Christmas Day 25 December Friday) 29 March 2013,
that appear in this section. 18 April 2014, 3 April 2015
Brunei Kenaikan Yesus Kristus
For details on public and (Ascension of Jesus
religious holidays (as well New Year’s Day 1 January Christ) 9 May 2013, 29 May
as cultural events), see the Maulidur Rasul 2014, 14 May 2015
events calendars posted by (Prophet’s Birthday) Waisak (Buddha’s
Sabah Tourism (www.sabah 13 January 2014, 3 January B­ irthday) 25 May 2013,, Sarawak 2015, 23 December 2015 14 May 2014, 1 June 2015
M­ inistry of Tourism (www Chinese New Year 31 Isra’ Mi’raj Nabi and J­ anuary 2014, 19 ­February M­ uhammed (Prophet’s
­Brunei Tourism (www.brunei 2015, 8 ­February 2016 Ascension) 6 June 2013, 27 May 2014, 16 May 2015
Brunei National Day Idul Fitri End of Ramadan;
Sabah & Sarawak 23 February 8 August 2013, 28 July 2014,
17 July 2015
New Year’s Day 1 January Royal Brunei Armed Hari Proklamasi Kemer-
Maulidur Rasul (Prophet’s Forces Day 31 May dekaan (Independence
Birthday) 13 January 2014, Gawai Dayak (Ibans only) Day) 17 August
3 January 2015, 23 Decem- Evening of 31 May to 2 June Idul Adha 15 October
ber 2016 2013, 4 October 2014,
Chinese New Year Isra Mikraj (Prophet’s 23 ­September 2015
31 ­January 2014, 19 ­February Ascension) 6 June 2013, Tahun Baru Hijriyah
2015, 8 February 2016 27 May 2014, 16 May 2015 (­ Islamic New Year)
Federal Territory Day 4 November 2013, 25
(Pulau Labuan) 1 February Sultan of Brunei’s O­ ctober 2014, 14 October
Good Friday 29 March 2013, B­ irthday 15 July 2015
18 April 2014, 3 April 2015 First Day of Ramadan Hari Natal (Christmas
Labour Day 1 May 9 July 2013, 28 June 2014, Day) 25 December
Wesak Day (Buddha’s 18 June 2015
Birthday) 25 May 2013, Safe Travel
14 May 2014, 1 June 2015 Nuzul Quraan (Koran
Harvest Festival (Sabah) R­ evelation Day) 26 July »»The Australian govern-
30 & 31 May 2013, 14 July 2014, 4 July ment (www.smartraveller.
Gawai Dayak (Sarawak) 2015 warns travellers of
evening of 31 May to 2 June Hari Raya Aidil Fitri End of a ‘high threat of kidnapping
Birthday of Yang di-­ Ramadan; three-day holiday
Pertuan Agong First ­beginning 8 August 2013, 28
­Saturday in June July 2014, 17 July 2015


GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE from RM5 to RM50. Calls Directory A–Z T elephone
cost just pennies per minute
The following government websites offer travel whether they’re local or to
­advisories and information on current hot spots: landline phones around the
»»Australian Department of Foreign Affairs (www world (calling mobile phones ­usually costs a bit more).
»»British Foreign Office (
»»Canadian Department of Foreign Affairs (www The best way to pay for 3G internet access, available
»»US State Department ( mainly in the cities, is per day
(Celcom charges RM5 for
500MB) or per week (RM18
for 1GB). Without a plan,
you’ll be charged a whopping
RM10 per MB.

by t­ errorists and criminals’ world. If you bring your own Brunei
in ‘the islands, dive sites gadget, make sure it can han-
and coastal areas of eastern dle 900/1800MHz and is not PHONE CODES
Sabah’, including Sipadan, locked. In Borneo, the cheap- »»Brunei’s country code is
Mataking and Pandanan. est Nokia mobile phones 673. There are no area codes.
Concern about the area, start at about US$40. »»Within Brunei, the access
­ongoing as of 2012, dates code for making international
from the abduction of 21 Sabah & Sarawak calls is 00.
hostages from Sipadan
by Philippines-based Abu PHONE CODES MOBILE PHONES
Sayyaf terrorists in 2000. »»Malaysia’s country code Bruneian prepaid SIM cards
»»Borneo is generally very is 60. When calling Malaysia cost B$30 (including B$5
safe for travellers of both from overseas, dial the of credit) and must be
sexes, but in villages and international access code registered within a week of
logging camps things can get followed by 60, then the area activation (after that the
dodgy when alcohol enters code or mobile-phone access number will be blocked). The
the picture. code (minus the initial zero) cheapest and easiest way
»»Saltwater crocodiles are and the local number (six to to buy one is to go to the
a very real danger in water- eight digits). office of DST Communica-
ways, especially in muddy »»Within Malaysia, the tions (
estuaries. Exercise caution access code for making in central BSB; bring your
when swimming in rivers, international calls is 00. passport.
even far inland, and never
swim near river mouths. MOBILE PHONES Various shops also sell
»»In Kalimantan, transport Sabah and Sarawak have DST ‘Easi’ SIM cards but
standards on land and water three networks on which they often charge a prem­
and in the air are dodgy, v­ arious companies buy air ium and neglect to handle
roads and even bridges are time: Celcom (www.celcom r­ egistration.
frequently washed out, and, DiGi (
some drivers are a menace .my), and Hotlink (www Local calls cost B$0.05 to
to themselves and other road B$0.30 a minute, depend-
users. ing on the time of day. For
»»The Indonesian part of Celcom generally has international calls, using the
the island isn’t anywhere the best coverage, making access code 095 (‘IDD 095’)
near as dangerous as many it possible to phone home is cheaper than 00; calls to
M­ alaysians seem to think – from places like Bario (in the Australia, the UK and the
violent crime is very rare – ­Kelabit Highlands) and the USA cost B$0.30 to B$0.50
but keep your wits about you, slopes of Mt Kinabalu. a minute.
especially in the cities.
A prepaid SIM card, avail- The sultanate’s other
Telephone able at shops and kiosks in m­ obile-phone service
all but the tiniest villages ­provider, B-Mobile (www
Cheap prepaid SIM cards (as well as at Miri airport sells SIM-
make it easy and remarkably and on the Departure level card starter packs for B$30.
inexpensive to keep in touch, of Kuching airport), costs
both with local contacts and just RM8.50, the equivalent If you have a Malaysian
family and friends around the of a minute or two of inter- SIM card, it will not work
national roaming charges. in Brunei unless you pay
It takes about 10 minutes to ­astronomical roaming­
activate; you’ll have to show charges­– or climb to the
your passport. top of Ulu Temburong
N­ ational Park’s canopy walk
Recharge cardlets come for line-of-sight microwave
in denominations ranging ­reception.

Directory A–Z T ime308 c­ logging, but if there is a tan’s bigger cities. They
wastepaper basket – as there range from very helpful to
Kalimantan often is in rural toilets – it’s well meaning but hopeless.
meant to be used.
PHONE CODES Travellers with
»»Indonesia’s country code Tourist Disabilities
is 62. When calling Indonesia Information
from overseas, dial the »»Borneo has a long way
international access code The best sources of informa- to go in this regard. Most
followed by 62, then the area tion are often guesthouse buildings, tourist destina-
code (minus the first zero) owners, guides, tour agen- tions and public transport in
and local number. cies and, of course, fellow Borneo are not wheelchair
»»Within Indonesia, the travellers. accessible.
access code for making »»Navigating Malaysian
international calls is 001. Sabah & Sarawak Borneo’s city centres in a
wheelchair can be tricky due
MOBILE PHONES »»The two state tourism to high kerbs and footpaths
Pulsa ( authorities, the Sabah of varying heights.
prepaid SIM cards can be T­ ourism Board (www.sabah »»Most tour companies offer-
bought in cities and towns and Sarawak ing trips to the interior do not
for about 10,000Rp and need Tourism Board (www.sarawak accommodate people with
to be activated by the shop, have useful physical disabilities.
owner. Telkomsel (www websites with details on SIM cards festivals and events. Visas
are good for cheap overseas »»Tourist information ­offices
calls. Telcomsel is fine along in larger cities generally Make sure your passport is
the coast of East Kalimantan have helpful staff and entire valid for at least six months
but in the interior Indosat walls filled with up-to-date beyond your date of entry
( has better information. and, if you’ll be travelling
coverage. »»Sabah’s national parks are overland through Brunei,
run by Sabah Parks (www that you have enough pages
Time, which has an for lots of entry stamps
information office in KK. (no fewer than 10 if you
»»Sabah, Sarawak and Bru- »»Sarawak’s national parks travel by road from Sabah to
nei are all eight hours ahead are run by Sarawak For- Sarawak).
of Greenwich Mean Time estry (www.sarawakforestry
(GMT/UTC+8). They do not .com), which has an especial- Sabah & Sarawak
observe daylight-saving time. ly informative website, pub-
»»Kalimantan is divided into lishes useful park brochures »»Visas valid for three
two time zones: Indonesian (RM1.50), and runs very months are issued upon
Western Standard Time helpful offices in Kuching and arrival to citizens of the US,
(UTC+7), which is observed Miri. Staff even answer the Canada, Western Europe
in West and Central Kaliman- phone! Accommodation at (except Greece, Monaco and
tan, and Indonesian Central certain national parks can be Portugal, whose nationals get
Standard Time (UTC+8), booked at its offices, through one month), Japan, South
which is observed in East, its website or via http:// Korea and most Common-
North and South Kalimantan. wealth countries.
»»One-month visas are
Toilets Brunei issued on arrival to citizens
of Singapore, most countries
»»You’ll find a lot of squat »»Brunei Tourism (%238- in Latin America and most
toilets in Borneo, p­ articularly 2822;; countries in the former
in public bathrooms. Jln Menteri Besar, Ministry of Soviet Union.
»»Western-style seated Industry & Primary Resources) »»Israeli passport hold-
toilets are the norm in hotels has a very useful – though ers are issued Malaysian
and guesthouses. You may be not necessarily up-to-the- visas only in exceptional
expected to flush using water minute – website. ­circumstances.
from a plastic bucket. »»KH Soon Resthouse in »»For complete information
»»Toilet paper is often BSB can supply information on visa types, who needs
unavailable in public toilets, on land transport to Miri them and how to get them,
including those with a fee, (Sarawak) and Sabah. see the website of Malaysia’s
so keep a stash handy. In Ministry of Foreign Affairs
urban areas you can usually Kalimantan ( – next to
discard used toilet paper into
the bowl without ­causing »»Local tourist offices can be
found in many of Kaliman-


‘Quick Info’ (at the bottom SARAWAK & SABAH PASSPORT Directory A–Z V isas
of the page), click ‘Visa STAMPS
Information’, and then click
‘Requirement for Foreigners’. Under the terms of Sabah and Sarawak’s entry into
­Malaysia, both states retain a certain degree of state-
VISA EXTENSIONS level control of their borders. Malaysian citizens from
»»Malaysian visas can be Peninsular Malaysia (West Malaysia) cannot work
extended in the Sarawak l­egally in Malaysian Borneo (East Malaysia) without
towns of Kuching, Bintulu, special permits, and tourists travelling within Malaysia
Kapit, Lawas, Limbang, Miri must go through passport control and have their pass-
and Sibu; and in the Sabah ports stamped whenever they:
towns of KK, Keningau, Ku-
dat, Lahad Datu, Sandakan, »»Arrive in Sabah or Sarawak from Peninsular
Semporna, Sipitang, Tawau ­Malaysia or the federal district of Pulau Labuan
and Tenom.
»»In general, Malaysian visas »»Exit Sabah or Sarawak on their way to Peninsular
can be extended for 60 days. Malaysia or Pulau Labuan
Bring your departure ticket
and be ready to explain why »»Travel between Sabah and Sarawak
you would like to stay longer Note: When you enter Sabah or Sarawak from another
and where you’ll be staying; part of Malaysia, your new visa stamp will be valid only
a photo is not required. Ap- for the remainder of the period left on your original
proval is usually given same Malaysian visa.
»»Extensions take effect on Brunei and continuing on to a differ-
the day they’re issued, so ent country), in which case a
the best time to extend a »»When it comes to getting 72-hour visa is available upon
visa is right before the old into Brunei, Americans are arrival.
one expires. If your visa still luckiest (they receive a free »»For more information, see
has a month of validity left, 90-day visa on arrival) and the website of the Immigra-
that time will not be added Israelis the unluckiest (they tion Department (www
to the period covered by the aren’t permitted to visit at
extension. all). Travellers from Western .htm).
»»Some travellers report Europe, New Zealand,
they’ve been able to extend Singapore, Malaysia and a Kalimantan
their Malaysian visas by go- few other countries score
ing through Malaysian border 30 days at the border, »»Tourists from 64 coun-
control at the Brunei border while Canadians, Swiss and tries – including Australia,
and then, without o­ fficially Japane­ se get 14 days. Canada, the EU, India, Japan,
entering Brunei, turning »»Australians don’t need to New Zealand, South Africa
around and re-entering apply for a visa in advance and the US – can receive
Malaysia. Others do visa but do have to ante up B$5 a 30-day Indonesian visa
runs by crossing from (payable only in Brunei or on arrival (VOA) at three
Sarawak into Indonesia at Singapore dollars) for a entry points to Kalimantan:
Tebedu–Entikong. three-day transit visa (you the Tebedu–Entikong land
»»Overstaying your visa by a need to show a ticket out), crossing between Kuching
few days is not usually a big B$20 for a single-entry visa (Sarawak) and Pontianak
deal, especially if you’re a valid for two weeks, or B$30 (West Kalimantan); Balikpa-
genuine tourist and have no for a multiple-entry visa pan (Sepinggan Airport); and
prior offences. However, at valid for a month (this is the Pontianak (Supadio Airport).
the discretion of immigra- one to get if you’ll be going »»The cost is US$25, pay-
tion officers, any violation overland between Sarawak able in US dollars (at the
of Malaysia’s visa rules can and Sabah). Tebedu–Entikong crossing,
result in your being turned »»People of most other at least, ringgit and rupiah
over to the Immigration nationalities must obtain a may not be accepted). Once
Department’s enforcement visa (single/multiple entry in the country, a VOA can be
section and, if you’re in B$20/30) in advance from extended by another 30 days
Sarawak, taken to Serian, a Brunei Darussalam diplo- for US$25.
60km southeast of Kuching, matic mission – unless, that »»If you arrive in Kaliman-
for questioning. Bummer of a is, they’ll just be transiting tan – by land, sea or air –
way to miss your flight. through Brunei (defined as from outside Indonesia at
arriving from one country any other entry point, or if

Directory A–Z Volunteering310


It’s no coincidence that the Malaysian flag, based on a 1947 design, looks so much like its
American counterpart. For a while after WWII, the US was very popular in Malaya, in part
for having helped get rid of the Japanese, and the US flag was seen as an excellent way to
represent a federal system of government.

The Malaysian flag has 14 horizontal red-and-white stripes (one more than the United
States flag) representing the country’s 13 states and either its federal government or,
collectively, its three federal districts (the 14th stripe originally represented Singapore,
which left the federation in 1965). In the upper left-hand corner is a field whose dark
blue, taken from the Union Jack, was once seen as representing the Commonwealth but
is now interpreted as signifying national unity. The crescent (representing Islam) and the
14-point star (representing the unity of the federation) are both yellow, the traditional
royal colour.

your passport is not from Volunteering northeastern Peninsular
one of the designated VOA Malaysia or Java. Brunei
countries, you must obtain Pay-to-volunteer programs is more conservative than
a visa in advance. You might are available in Sabah at the Sabah or Sarawak.
also want to apply for a Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabili- »»Although local women
visa ahead of time if you tation Centre (see www (especially ethnic Chinese)
know you’ll be staying in, wear shorts and tank tops in
­Kalimantan for longer than and in Sarawak at the Ma- the cities, it’s a good idea to
30 days. tang Wildlife Centre (www. dress fairly conservatively in
»»In Sabah, Indonesia has and Muslim areas and to cover
consulates in KK and Tawau, through Talang-Satang Na- up when visiting a mosque
and in Sarawak there’s a tional Park’s Sea Turtle Vol- (robes and headscarves are
consulate in Kuching. A 60- unteer Programme (contact sometimes provided).
day visa costs RM170; bring the National Park Booking »»As with anywhere else,
a photo, your ticket out of Office in Kuching). use common sense and
Indonesia, and a credit card caution. Do not get lulled into
or cash to show that you’ve Women Travellers a false sense of security just
got funds. Visas are generally because everyone seems so
issued the same day. »»Borneo is a relatively easygoing. Do not walk
»»For a full list of the easy and pleasant place for alone at night if possible and
­countries whose nationals women travellers. Things are lock the door to your hotel
score a VOA and details on considerably more laid back room.
the entry points at which and liberal in Borneo, includ-
they are ­issued, see www ing Kalimantan, than, say, in


Transport Malaysia Airlines (www BSB
GETTING THERE Tiger Airways (www.tiger to KL.
& AWAY KK to Clark Singapore Airlines (www
(Philippines). BSB to
Most travellers arrive in Singapore.
Borneo by air, most often Sarawak
from the gateway cities of Kalimantan
Singapore, Kuala Lumpur AirAsia (
(KL) and Jakarta. Kalimantan Kuching to Singapore, KL, Flying to and around
has ferry links to Java and Johor Bahru and Penang; K­ alimantan is much safer
Sulawesi, and there are also Miri to Singapore, KL and than a few years ago.
ferries between Sabah and Johor Bahru; Sibu to KL and AirAsia (
the southern Philippines. Johor Bahru; Bintulu to KL. Balikpapan to KL.
Malaysia Airlines (www Batavia Air (www.batavia-air
Many of the regional and .com) Balikpapan to Jakarta,
low-fare airlines do not sell Kuching to KL and Singapore. Surabaya, Jogjakarta and
tickets through the major Silk Air ( Manado; Banjarmasin to
online fare aggregators. Kuching to Singapore. Jakarta and Surabaya; Berau
Tiger Airways (www.tiger to Surabaya; ­Pontianak to
Flights and tours can be Kuching to Jakarta, Jogjakarta, Batam
booked online at www.lonely Singapore. (near Singapore) and S­ ingapore.
Brunei Garuda (www.garuda
Air Balikpapan
Royal Brunei Airlines to Jakarta, Surabaya,
Sabah ( Bandar J­ ogjakarta and Makassar;
Seri Begawan (BSB) to Banjarmasin to Jakarta;
AirAsia ( London, Dubai, Hong Kong, Pontianak to Jakarta.
Kota Kinabalu (KK) to Shanghai, Bangkok, Manila, Kal Star (www.kalstaronline
­Peninsular Malaysia (KL, Melbourne, Singapore, Sura- .com) Jakarta to various
Johor Bahru and P­ enang), baya, Jakarta and KL. Offers Kalimantan cities, plus intra-
Singapore, Jakarta, Clark reasonably priced long-haul Kalimantan connections.
(Philippines), Taipei, flights with a stopover in Lion Air (
­Shenzhen and Hong Kong; BSB. Flights are alcohol free. Balikpapan to Jakarta,
Sandakan to KL; Tawau to AirAsia ( S­ urabaya, Jogjakarta and
KL; and Pulau Labuan to KL. BSB to KL. Makassar; Banjarmasin
Malaysia Airlines (www Cebu Pacific Air (www. to Jakarta, Surabaya and KK to BSB to Jogjakarta.
KL, Hong Kong, Tapei, Osaka Manila. Silk Air (
and Perth. Balikpapan to Singapore.
Silk Air ( KK Sriwijaya (www.sriwijayaair
to Singapore. Balikpapan to Jakarta,
Surabaya, Jogjakarta and
Makassar; Banjarmasin
to Jakarta and Surabaya;
Pontianak to Jakarta.



Ferries link Sandakan with
Zamboanga, on the Philip-
pine island Mindanao, twice
a week; see p77 for details.


Ferries run by Pelni (www, Dharma Lautan
( and
Prima Vista connect Balik-
papan, Samarinda, Banjar-
masin and Pontianak with


Transport A ir Java (Jakarta, Semarang and around holidays. Tick- Kal-Star (www.kalstaronline
and Surabaya) and Sulawesi ets for most flights can be .com) Has an extensive
(Makassar, Pare Pare and p­ urchased online. network of intra-Kalimantan
others). flights.
Sabah & Sarawak Trigana Air (www.trigana-air
GETTING .com) Intra-Borneo flights
AROUND AirAsia ( (eg to/from Berau and
Air Kuching to Sibu, Bintulu, Pangkalan Bun).
Miri and Kota Kinabalu (KK);
Borneo is covered by a sur- KK to Tawau, Sandakan, Miri Bicycle
prisingly extensive network and Kuching.
of flights, and it’s often Batavia Air (www.batavia-air Road and all-terrain cycling
remarkably cheap to hop Kuching to Pontianak. have recently taken off in the
around the island by air. Air Malaysia Airlines (www Kuching area, but it’s unlikely
travel is the only practical Kuch- that Borneo will become a
way to reach some des­ ing to KK, Sibu and Bintulu; popular bike-touring destina-
tinations, such as Sarawak’s KK to Tawau, Labuan and tion anytime soon. Few roads
­Kelabit Highlands and Gun­ Bintulu. have shoulders/verges,
ung Mulu National Park. MASwings (www.maswings many are in varying states of Serves two dozen disrepair and heavy lorries
There’s something incred- destinations in Sabah often drive quite fast. There’s
ibly exciting and romantic (including Sandakan, Lahad also the climate – Borneo
about buzzing over the jungle Datu and Tawau), Sarawak straddles the equator and
in a 19-seat DeHavilland Twin (including Lawas, Limbang, the combination of heat,
Otter turboprop – or bounc- Bario, Miri, Gunung Mulu humidity, torrential rains
ing around in a cloudburst, National Park, Bintulu and and sun can be merciless.
huge equatorial raindrops Sibu) and Brunei, plus han- If you choose to ride, take
crashing furiously on the dles Kuching to Pontianak. extreme caution with traf-
pilots’ windshield, which Has hubs in KK, Kuching and fic; drivers are not used to
passengers can see out of Miri. Member of Star Alli- seeing bicycles and will give
because the cockpit doesn’t ance. Allows liquids in carry- you precious little leeway.
have a door. ons. ATRs and Twin Otters Remember to bring a helmet,
board from the tail so the a reflective vest, high-power
Note: on some Twin Ot- most accessible seats are lights and a wealth of inner
ter routes (eg up to Bario) at the back of the plane. tubes and spare parts.
there are strict limits on the
weight of both carry-ons Brunei Boat
(5kg) and checked baggage
(10kg). They even weigh the MASwings (www.maswings Until the advent of aero-
p­ assengers! Bandar Seri Be- planes and roads, boats were
gawan (BSB) to KK and the only way to cover long
In most cases, you can buy Kuching. distances in Borneo, both
air tickets on relatively short along the coast and in the
notice, but for a few destina- Kalimantan interior. Rivers still play a
tions, including Gunung Mulu major transport role, and in
National Park, Bario and Ba Kalimantan has a compre- some trackless areas – such
Kelalan (all in Sarawak), it’s hensive network of air links. as Sarawak’s Batang Rejang
a good idea to book ahead, Batavia Air (www.batavia-air
especially in July and August Balikpapan to Banjar-
masin and Berau.


Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause
of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which
might use less fuel per kilometre per person than most cars but travel much greater
distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also
contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that
allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those
who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contribu-
tions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet off-
sets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.


and much of Kalimantan – Kalimantan Sipadan) along the way. Transport B us , Van & Ta x i
they’re the only ride in town. Large buses ply this route on
At the time of research, a daily basis, while even more
On wider rivers, ‘flying the direct ferry from Tawau frequent minivans and share
c­ offins’ – long, narrow ex- (Sabah) to Tarakan (North taxis and jeeps connect both
press boats with about 60 Kalimantan) wasn’t operat- the main cities and second-
seats – are the norm. Way ing, but there is a speed- ary towns. Getting from KK
upstream, the only craft boat service from Tawau to any towns north, all the
that can make headway to Tarakan via Nunukan. A way to Kudat, and southwest
against the rapids and dodge visa-on-arrival is available to the Brunei border, is easily
submerged rocks are motor­ if you’re entering Sabah done by share taxi or jeep.
ised wooden longboats, but not if you’re travelling The same applies if travelling
expertly manoeuvred by local in the other direction, into from Sandakan to any towns
b­ oatmen and boatwomen. K­ alimantan. south to Tawau. Just keep in
mind it’s always hard to find
Rates for water travel To get around Kalimantan, any kind of public transport
are often quite high, the the only scheduled public after 5pm.
crucial factor being the cost boats are found on the
of ­petrol. Chartering a boat ­Sungai Mahakam and sail The southern road that
costs much more than taking as far as Long Bagun if the connects Tawau to Sapulot
a water taxi used by locals for w­ ater is high enough, other- is not entirely paved yet, nor
commerce and commuting. wise they stop at Tering. For is it serviced by public trans-
other r­ ivers, it’s necessary port, but you can arrange
Sabah to charter, or else wait for a private transport down this
local boat to fill up. way, and occasional (very
Nature sites accessible by o­ ccasional) minibuses ply
boat include Tunku Abdul Bus, Van & Taxi the route. Getting to very
Rahman National Park, the remote villages by public
Semporna Archipelago and Malaysian Borneo’s coastal transport is tougher – in
Pulau Tiga National Park. cities are connected by a net- these situations you need to
work of cheap and relatively hope share taxis and jeeps
In the west, sea ­ferries comfortable buses. have enough passengers.
link Menumbok with These vehicles typically leave
Muara in Brunei; KK with Intercity buses generally very early in the morning.
Pulau Labuan; and Pulau depart from a long-distance
Labuan with Muara. In bus terminal on the out- Sarawak
Sabah’s southeast corner, skirts of town, linked to the
speedboats link Tawau with city centre by bus and taxi. Frequent buses run by a
Tarakan and Nunukan in There’s usually no need clutch of companies ply the
Kalimantan. to purchase bus tickets in Pan Borneo Hwy from Kuch-
advance – just show up and ing to Miri, stopping along
Sarawak shop around for the next the way in Sibu and Bintulu,
departure (departure boards near Niah National Park, and
Sarawak’s Batang Rejang posted at bus-company at Lambir Hills National Park.
is sometimes called the counters make this easy). From Miri, several buses
‘­Amazon of Borneo’ and a For many destinations, de- a day head via Brunei to
journey upriver is still very partures are most frequent Sabah.
romantic, despite the lack in the mornings, but on some
of intact forest en route. routes (eg Miri to Kuching) Long-haul buses link
there are also afternoon and Sarawak’s coastal cities,
Along the coast, speed- overnight buses. including Kuching, with Pon-
boats link Limbang with tianak (West Kalimantan) via
Pulau Labuan. In western Around most cities, in- the Tebedu–Entikong border
Sarawak, motorboats are cluding Kuching, short-haul crossing.
the only way to get to Bako, bus services have been deci-
T­ anjung Datu and Talang- mated by the proliferation Bus service from Kuching
Satang National Parks. of private cars and chaotic, to destinations in Western
privately operated minivans. Sarawak is very limited
Brunei or non-existent, except to
Sabah Lundu, Kubah National Park,
Speedboats link BSB with Matang Wildlife Centre, Bako
Bangar (in Brunei’s Tembu- An arc of excellent paved Bazaar (near Bako National
rong District), and car ferries roads extends from KK Park) and Semenggoh Na-
leave from the Serasa Ferry southeast to Tawau, pass- ture Reserve. For some des-
Terminal in Muara, 25km ing Mt Kinabalu, Sepilok, tinations, the only transport
northeast of BSB, to Pulau Sandakan, Lahad Datu and options are hiring a car or
Labuan and the Sabah port Semporna (gateway to taxi, or joining a tour group.
of Menumbok. The only way
to get to Ulu Temburong Na-
tional Park is by longboat.

T ransport 314

Border Crossings 0 400 km
0 200 miles

0 50 km Menumbok
0 30 miles (Sabah, M)

SOUTH Pulau Labuan
(Federal Territory, M)

CHINA Muara (B) Lawas–
BEGAWAN Lawas (M) Sabah, M) Sulu Sea

Limbang (M) SOUTH
Bangar– CHINA
Kuala Lurah– Lawas (B, M) Kota Kinabalu (M)
Limbang (B, M) Limbang– SEA See enlargement

Kuala Belait– Bangar (M,B) SABAH
Miri (B, M)


Limbang Division Miri (M) B R U N E I Tawau (M)

Nunukan (I)

Tarakan (I) Celebes Sea


Kuching (M)


(M, I)


Brunei crossings) to Tawau in the As always, verify the in- Transport C ar & M otorcycle
southeast corner of Sabah. surance excess/deduct-
Only one company, known Kalimantan’s road network is ible, whose default may be
as Jesselton Express (for limited, with lots of sections RM2000 or more; reducing
services heading from BSB yet to be paved and frequent this to RM500 can cost as
towards KK) and PHLS (for washouts and flash floods. little as RM15 a day.
services from BSB towards
Miri), is allowed to pick up Road signage is often hap- In Brunei, prices start
and drop off passengers hazard, with many junctions, at about B$80 a day. In
­inside the sultanate. Two including T-junctions, lacking Kalimantan – where avail-
buses a day run from BSB any indication of where to go. able – they start at about
southwest to Miri (via Seria Yogi Berra may have advised, 1,500,000Rp per day.
and Kuala Belait) and north- ‘when you get to a fork in the
east to KK (via Limbang, road, take it’, but that’s easier With some Malaysian
L­ awas and various des­ said than done. companies you can visit Bru-
tinations in Sabah). nei for no extra charge, while
Car Rental others charge a fee of RM50
Kalimantan or RM100. Renting a car in
Driving a rental car gives you one city and returning it in
Buses and Kijang (4WD maximum flexibility but can another can be expensive –
minivans that ply intercity involve major hassles – in count on paying RM500
routes) are a mixed affair, Borneo, these are likely to extra to pick up a vehicle in
ranging from comfy to include poor or nonexistent Miri and drop it off in Kuch-
purgatorial. The same can road signage, a dearth of ing. Some insurance plans
also be said of Kalimantan’s proper road maps, dilapidat- are only valid in a limited
highways and minor roads, ed vehicles, and small rental geographical area.
which vary from silk-smooth companies that may try to
asphalt to m­ uddy, potholed foist repair charges onto you. A valid overseas licence
pumpkin soup during the In Kalimantan you may have is needed to rent a car. An
wet season, when you may trouble asking for directions International Driving Permit
have to disembark and push. unless you speak Bahasa (a translation of your license
VIP-style buses with air-con Indonesia. On the brighter and its provisions) is usually
operate between Balikpapan side, in Malaysia petrol costs not required by local car-hire
and Samarinda, and from only about US$0.60 per litre companies, but it’s recom-
Samarinda to Banjarmasin (US$2.30 per US gallon). mended that you bring one.
and Bontang. The rest of Minimum age limits (gener-
the country involves patchy Car-hire companies ally 23, sometimes 21) often
roads, inhumanly quick driv- have desks in the arrivals apply, and some companies
ers and, often, overcrowd- halls of larger airports; in won’t rent to anyone over
ing on woefully smoky, city ­centres, hotels and 60 or 65.
dilapidated buses. Bring with guesthouses can help find
you patience, an inflatable an agency. We’ve heard Taxi Hire
neck cushion, an iPod and reports that small local com­
anything else to ease the panies sometimes try to rent For travel to places within
journey. out 10-year-old cars with a 50km or 70km radius of
bald tyres and leaky boots where you’re staying, hiring
The only official land (trunks). Before you sign a taxi on a per-trip, half-day
crossing between Kaliman- anything or hand over any or per-day basis is often a
tan and Malaysian Borneo is cash, check over your vehicle good option, especially for
at Tebedu–Entikong, in west- very carefully (eg for seat- three or four people. For day
ern Sarawak between Kuch- belts in back), especially if trips from public-transport-­
ing and Pontianak. Long- it’s an older Malaysian-made challenged Kuching, for
haul buses link Pontianak model such as a tiny Perodua instance, count on paying
with Kuching, the cities of Kancil or Proton Wira. about RM250 for an eight-
Sarawak’s central coast and hour excursion. When you
Brunei. In Sabah and Sarawak, factor in fuel, this often
prices for a very used 660cc works out only slightly more
Car & Motorcycle Kancil start at an absolute expensive than renting.
minimum of RM90/500 per ­Bonuses: you bear no liability
Driving is on the left in all day/week at the cheapest in case the car is damaged,
three countries that share outfits; a Perodua Viva or and you’ve got the driver to
Borneo. The (generally) Proton Saga will cost a bit take care of navigation and
nicely paved Pan Borneo more. Renting a Hyundai mechanical problems – and
Hwy runs all along Borneo’s ­Matrix through an inter- to find places to eat.
northern coast, from Sema- national company such as
tan in Sarawak’s far west via Hertz ( costs In Kalimantan, the norm is
Brunei (and its many border about double that, but your to hire a Kijang (taxi), agree-
vehicle is likely to be newer, ing on remuneration for the
safer and better maintained. driver in addition to paying
for fuel.

Transport H itching316 are rare – this can be a very man). Indeed, it’s the only
pleasant way to soak up the way to see some things –
Hitching atmosphere. for instance, the summits
of Gunung Mulu and Mt
Hitching is never entirely Boat Kinabalu, the longhouses of
safe anywhere in the world, Sarawak’s Batang Ai region
but it’s certainly possible Small motorboats and and the Kelabit Highlands,
to hitch in most parts of motori­sed longboats are and Ulu Temburong National
Borneo. It’s usually relatively often used for short trips Park in Brunei.
safe for male travel­lers, but across rivers and bays.
we don’t recommend it for ­Examples include traversing Borneo has a wealth of
female travellers. Some driv- Kuching’s Sungai Sarawak excellent guides and tour
ers will expect a small ‘tip’ or and transport from central agencies. Most guesthouses
assistance with petrol costs BSB (Brunei) to the water and hotels have relationships
for driving you. At the very village of Kampung Ayer. with at least one local tour
least, if you stop for food, operator, and some run their
you should o­ ffer to pay for Taxi own in-house travel agencies.
their meal. It’s best to ask other travel-
Taxis are common in lers about their experiences
Local Transport B­ orneo’s larger cities; with these before plunking
m­ eters, drivers who use down any money.
Bicycle them and fixed rates are less
common, except in Kuching. Train
Within cities, bicycles Luckily, you’ll find that most
have become a rare sight drivers in Borneo are quite Borneo’s only railway line,
as increased prosperity honest. Just be sure to set run by the Sabah State
has brought the creature the price before starting out Railway (
­comforts of gas guzzling and only pay upon arrival. railway), runs two trains
to Malaysia and Brunei. a day from Tanjung Aru,
However, some guesthouses Tours 4km southwest of central
rent or lend bicycles to their KK, south to Beaufort and
guests. Out in the country, One way to get the most out Tenom, a distance of 134km.
locals still use bicycles to get of a national park visit, jungle Inaugurated in 1896, this
around small kampung (vil- trek or longhouse sojourn is scenic line underwent a
lages), and if you can get hold to go with a guide who knows major renovation in 2011.
of a bicycle – rental options the territory (and, in the case
of longhouses, the head-


Proof of vaccination against
yellow fever will be required
only if you have visited a coun-
try in the yellow-fever zone
(parts of Africa and South
America) within six days prior
to entering Malaysia, Brunei
or Indonesia. If you’re coming
from Africa or South America,
check to see if you require
proof of vaccination.

Medical Checklist

»»Antibiotics – consider
bringing if you’re travelling
well off the beaten track; see
your doctor and carry the
prescription with you

Health »»Antifungal cream or
powder – for fungal skin
Travellers tend to worry evacuation can be expensive; infections and thrush
about contracting infectious bills of over US$100,000 are »»Antihistamine – for
diseases, but infections are not uncommon. Insurance is allergies such as hay
not nearly as common in available online from www fever; to ease the itch from
Borneo as you might think insect bites or stings; and to
and rarely cause serious p­ revent motion sickness
illness. Malaria does exist but Vaccinations »»Antiseptic (eg povidone-­
is usually limited to isolated iodine or betadine) – for
upland areas. Most vaccines don’t produce cuts and grazes
immunity until at least two »»Antispasmodic (eg Busco-
The following information weeks after they’re given, so pan) – for stomach cramps
should be used only as a visit a doctor four to eight »»Aspirin or paracetamol
general guide and should not weeks before departure. Ask (acetaminophen in the
replace the advice of a doc- for an International Certifi- USA) – for pain or fever
tor trained in travel medicine. cate of Vaccination (known »»Adhesive bandages and
as the ‘yellow booklet’), which other wound dressings
Before You Go will list all the vaccinations »»Calamine lotion, sting relief
you’ve received. spray or aloe vera – to ease
irritation from sunburn and
insect bites or stings

If you take any regular medi- RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS
cation, bring double your
needs in case of loss or theft, The World Health Organization recommends the
and carry these supplies following vaccinations for travellers to Borneo:
separately. You may be able »»Adult diphtheria and tetanus
to buy some medications »»Hepatitis A
over the counter in Borneo »»Hepatitis B
without a prescription, but it »»Measles, mumps and rubella
can be difficult to find some »»Polio
newer drugs, particularly »»Typhoid
the latest antidepressants, »»Varicella
blood-pressure medications
and contraceptive pills. Recommended for longer term travellers (more than
one month) or those at special risk:
Insurance »»Japanese B Encephalitis
Even if you’re fit and healthy, »»Rabies
don’t travel without health »»Tuberculosis
insurance. Extra cover may
be required for adventure
activities, such as rock climb-
ing, caving or scuba diving. If
you’re uninsured, emergency

He alth I n B orneo318 Infectious Diseases

This mosquito-borne disease
Many government travel websites include health is present in Borneo. As
information: there’s no vaccine available,
»»Australia ( it can only be prevented by
»»Canada ( avoiding mosquito bites. The
»»New Zealand ( mosquito that carries den-
»»United Kingdom ( gue fever bites during both
»»United States ( day and night, so use insect-
avoidance measures at all
»»Cold and flu tablets, throat Further Reading times. Symptoms include
lozenges, nasal decongestant high fever, severe headache
»» Contraceptives Lonely Planet’s pocket- and body ache. Some people
»»DEET-based insect repellent size Asia & India: Healthy develop a rash and experi-
»»Ibuprofen – or another Travel is packed with useful ence diarrhoea. There’s no
anti-inflammatory i­nformation, including pre- specific treatment, just rest
»»Iodine tablets (unless you trip planning, emergency and paracetamol – don’t take
are pregnant or have a thyroid first aid, immunisation and aspirin as it increases the
problem) – to purify water disease information, and likelihood of haemorrhaging.
»»Loperamide or diphenoxy- what to do if you get sick on Some forms can be danger-
late – ‘blockers’ for diarrhoea the road. Travel with Children ous, so see a doctor to be
»»Multivitamins – for long includes advice on travel diagnosed and monitored.
trips, when dietary vitamin health for young children.
intake may be inadequate LEPTOSPIROSIS
»»Permethrin – to impregnate Other references include Leptospirosis is a bacterial
clothing and mosquito nets the 5th (2012) edition of disease that’s most com-
»»Prochlorperazine or Travellers’ Health by Dr monly contracted after river
­metoclopramide – for Richard Dawood (Oxford rafting, canyoning or cav-
­nausea and vomiting University Press) and the ing, sometimes as a result
»»Rehydration mixture – to 17th (2012) edition of Travel- of contact with rat urine or
prevent dehydration, which ling Well by Dr Deborah Mills faeces. Early symptoms are
may occur, for example, (available from www. similar to the flu and include
­during bouts of diarrhoea headache and fever. It can
»»Scissors, tweezers and vary from a very mild to fatal
a thermometer (note that In Borneo disease. Diagnosis is through
mercury thermometers are blood tests and it is easily
prohibited by airlines) Availability & Cost treated with Doxycycline.
»»Sterile kit – in case you need of Health Care
injections in a country with MALARIA
medical-hygiene problems; There are good medical Malaria is not common
discuss with your doctor f­acilities – charging reason- but is present in Borneo,
»»Sunscreen, lip balm and able rates – in Borneo’s larger particularly in parts of
eye drops cities. This is especially true in ­Kalimantan. Brunei is malaria
Sabah, Sarawak and Brunei, free; in Sabah and Sarawak,
Websites where even upland towns the disease is absent from
such as Bario and Belaga coastal areas and only oc-
There’s a wealth of travel- are now served by full-time casionally found in or around
health advice on the internet. doctors. As you head into the remote lumber camps. One
hinterl­ands, however, espe- reason for the relative rarity
World Health Organization cially in Kalimantan, you’ll find of malaria is the relatively low
( Publishes a few if any medical facilities. mosquito population in much
superb book – International of Borneo – thanks in part to
Travel and Health (down- In Sabah, Sarawak and the island’s millions of cave-
loadable) – and is the best Brunei you will have no dwelling, insectivorous bats.
source of information on problem communicating Get up-to-date information
disease distribution. with doctors in English, and on infected areas before your
­almost all nurses know at trip and as soon as you arrive
Centers for Disease Con- least some English. Phar- in the country.
trol & Prevention (USA) macists also tend to speak
( Excellent reasonable English – this In areas with minimal
general information. can be important, as many to no risk of malaria, the
m­ edications are marketed potential side effects from
under a variety of names in antimalarial tablets may
different parts of the world. outweigh the risk of getting
the disease. For some rural


and upland areas, however, receive rabies immunoglobu- toms come on suddenly and He alth I n B orneo
the risk of contracting the lin as soon as possible. include weakness, nausea,
disease outweighs any tablet a hot, dry body with a body
side effects. Remember that Environmental temperature of over 41°C,
malaria can be fatal. Before Hazards dizziness, confusion, loss
you travel, seek medical ad- of coordination, fits, and
vice on the right medication DIVING eventual collapse and loss of
and dosage for you. Divers and surfers should consciousness. Seek medical
seek specialised advice help and commence cooling
Malaria is caused by a before they travel, to ensure by getting the sufferer out
parasite transmitted through their medical kit contains of the heat, removing their
the bite of an infected mos- treatment for coral cuts and clothes, fanning them and
quito. The most important tropical ear infections. Divers applying cool, wet cloths or
symptom is fever, but general should ensure their insur- ice to their body, especially
symptoms such as head- ance covers them for decom- to the groin and armpits.
ache, diarrhoea, cough or pression illness – specialised
chills may also occur. Diag- dive insurance is available Prickly heat is a ­common
nosis can be made only by through DAN Asia-Pacific skin rash in the tropics,
taking a blood sample. (Divers Alert Network; www caused by sweat being Have a trapped under the skin. The
Two strategies should be dive medical before you result is an itchy rash of tiny
combined to prevent malaria: leave your home country. lumps. If you develop prickly
mosquito avoidance and heat, treat it by m­ oving
antimalarial medications. HEAT out of the heat and into an
Most people who catch Borneo is hot and humid air-conditioned area for a
­malaria are taking inadequate throughout the year. Most few hours and by having
or no medication. Travellers people take at least two cool showers. Creams and
in malarial areas are advised weeks to adapt to the ointments clog the skin, so
to prevent mosquito bites by c­ limate. Swelling of the feet should be avoided. Locally
taking these steps: and ankles is common, as are bought prickly-heat powder
»»Use a DEET-containing muscle cramps caused by can be helpful for relief.
insect repellent on exposed excessive sweating. Prevent INSECT BITES & STINGS
skin. Wash this off at night these by avoiding dehydra- Ticks are contracted after
(if you’re sleeping under a tion and too much activity in walking in the bush and are
mosquito net treated with the heat. Take it easy when commonly found behind
permethrin). Natural repel- you first arrive. Don’t eat salt the ears, on the belly and in
lents such as citronella can tablets (they aggravate the a­ rmpits. If you have had a tick
be effective but must be gut), but drinking rehydra- bite and experience symp-
applied more frequently than tion solution or eating salty toms such as a rash at the
products containing DEET. food helps. Treat cramps by site of the bite or elsewhere,
»»Choose accommodation stopping activity, resting, a fever or muscle aches, you
with screens and fans (if not re­hydrating with double- should see a doctor.
air-con). strength rehydration solution
»»Sleep under a permethrin- and gently stretching. Leeches are found in
impregnated mosquito net. ­humid rainforest areas. They
»»Wear long sleeves and Dehydration is the main do not transmit any disease
trousers in light colours. contributor to heat exhaus- but their bites are often
»»Impregnate clothing with tion. Symptoms include i­ntensely itchy for weeks and
permethrin (in high-risk areas). feeling weak, headache, can easily become infected.
»»Use mosquito coils. irritability, nausea or vomit- Apply iodine-based anti-
ing, sweaty skin, a fast, weak septic to leech bites to help
RABIES pulse and a slightly increased prevent infection. See p22 for
Rabies is present in Kali- body temperature. Treatment more information.
mantan but much less com- involves getting the sufferer
mon in Sabah, Sarawak and out of the heat and/or sun, Bee and wasp stings main-
Brunei. This fatal disease fanning them and applying ly cause problems for people
is spread by the bite or lick cool wet cloths to the skin, who are allergic to them.
of an infected animal, most laying the victim flat with Anyone with a serious bee or
commonly a dog or monkey. their legs raised and rehy- wasp allergy should carry an
Seek medical advice immedi- drating with water containing injection of adrenalin (eg an
ately after any animal bite. a quarter of a teaspoon of EpiPen) for emergency treat-
salt per litre. Recovery is ment. For others, pain is the
Having pre-travel vac- ­usually rapid, although it’s main problem – apply ice to
cination means the post-bite common to feel weak for the sting and take painkillers.
treatment is greatly sim- some days afterwards.
plified. If you are not pre- Most jellyfish in Southeast
vaccinated, you will need to Heatstroke is a serious Asian waters are not danger-
medical emergency. Symp- ous, just irritating. First aid

He alth I n B orneo320 TAP WATER
for jellyfish stings involves
pouring vinegar onto the »»Never drink tap water unless you’ve verified that it’s
affected area to neutralise safe (many parts of Sabah, Sarawak and Brunei have
the poison. Don’t rub sand or modern treatment plants).
water onto the stings. Take »»Bottled water is generally safe – check the seal is
painkillers, and if you feel ill intact at purchase.
in any way after being stung »»Avoid ice in eateries that look dubious, especially in
seek medical advice. Take Kalimantan.
local advice if there are dan- »»Avoid fruit juices if they’re not freshly squeezed or
gerous jellyfish around and you suspect they have been watered down.
keep out of the water. »»Boiling water is the most efficient way to purify it.
»»The best chemical purifier is iodine (not to be used
SKIN PROBLEMS if you are pregnant or have thyroid problems).
Fungal rashes are common »»Water filters should also filter out viruses. Ensure
in humid climates. There are your filter has a chemical barrier such as iodine and
two common fungal rashes a small pore size (ie less than 4 microns).
that affect travellers. The
first occurs in moist areas ­diarrhoea is defined as to date, as many of the com-
that get less air, such as the the passage of more than mon childhood diseases
groin, armpits and between three watery bowel actions that have been eliminated
the toes. It starts as a red within 24 hours, plus at least in the West are still present
patch that slowly spreads one other symptom, such in parts of Borneo. A travel-
and is usually itchy. Treat- as fever, cramps, nausea, health clinic can advise you
ment involves keeping the vomiting or feeling generally on specific vaccines, but
skin dry, avoiding chafing unwell. Treatment consists think seriously about rabies
and using an antifungal of staying well hydrated; v­ accination if you’re visiting
cream such as Clotrimazole rehydration solutions such rural areas or travelling for
or Lamisil. Tinea versicolour as Gastrolyte are the best more than a month, as chil-
is also common – this fungus for this. dren are more vulnerable to
causes small, light-coloured severe animal bites.
patches, most commonly on Always seek reliable medi-
the back, chest and shoul- cal care if you have blood in Children are more prone
ders. Consult a doctor. your diarrhoea. to getting serious forms of
mosquito-borne diseases
Cuts and scratches Loperamide is just a ‘stop- such as malaria, Japanese
become easily infected per’ and doesn’t get to the B encephalitis and dengue
in humid climates. Take cause of the problem (it can fever. In particular, malaria is
­meticulous care of wounds – be helpful, for example, if you very serious in children and
immediately washing them have to go on a long bus ride). can rapidly lead to death –
in clean water and applying Don’t take it if you have a think seriously before ­taking
antiseptic – to prevent com- fever, or blood in your stools. your child into a ­malaria
plications such as a­ bscesses. risk area. Permethrin-­
If you develop signs of Ways to avoid traveller’s impregnated clothing is safe
infection (increasing pain diarrhoea include eating to use, and insect repellents
and redness), see a doctor. only freshly cooked food and should contain between 10%
Divers and surfers should be avoiding shellfish and food and 20% DEET.
particularly careful with coral that has been sitting around
cuts as they become easily in buffets. Peel all fruit, cook Diarrhoea can cause rapid
infected. vegetables, and soak salads dehydration and you should
in iodine water for at least 20 pay particular attention
TRAVELLER’S DIARRHOEA minutes. Eat in busy restau- to keeping your child well
Traveller’s diarrhoea is rants with a high turnover of ­hydrated. The best antibiotic
by far the most common customers. for children with diarrhoea is
problem affecting travel- Azithromycin.
lers – b­ etween 30% to 50% Travelling with
of p­ eople will suffer from it Children Women’s Health
within two weeks of starting
their trip. In over 80% of Borneo is a great place to In urban areas, supplies of
cases, it’s caused by a bacte- travel with children. However, sanitary products are read-
ria, and therefore responds there are specific health ily available. Birth-control
promptly to treatment with ­issues you need to consider. o­ ptions may be limited, so
antibiotics. Treatment will bring adequate supplies.
d­ epend on your situation – All your children’s routine
how sick you are, how quickly vaccinations should be up
you need to get better,
where you are etc. Traveller’s­


For in-depth language
information and
handy phrases, check
out Lonely Planet’s
Indonesian Phrasebook
and Malay Phrasebook.
You’ll find them at shop., or you
can buy Lonely Planet’s
iPhone phrasebooks at the
Apple App Store.


Malay, or Bahasa Malaysia, is the official Pronouns, particularly ‘you’, are rarely
language of Malaysian Borneo (Sabah and used in both Bahasa Malaysia and Bahasa
Sarawak) and Brunei; it’s the native language Indonesia. Anda (in Indonesian) and kamu (in
of people of Malay descent there. Indonesian, Malay) are the egalitarian forms designed to
or Bahasa Indonesia, is the official language overcome the plethora of terms relating to
of Kalimantan and the mother tongue of a person’s age and gender that are used for
most people of non-Chinese descent living the second person.
there. The two languages are very similar,
and if you can speak a little of either you’ll BASICS Salam./Helo. (I/M)
be able to use it across the island. We’ve Selamat tinggal/jalan.
avoided duplication in this language guide Hello. (by person leaving/staying)
by providing translations in both languages Goodbye. Apa kabar?
– indicated by (I) and (M) – only where the Kabar baik.
differences are significant enough to cause Maaf.
confusion. How are you? Maaf.
I’m fine. Ya.
Each of Borneo’s indigenous groups has its Excuse me. Tidak.
own language, but their members all speak Sorry. Silakan.
Bahasa Malaysia or Bahasa Indonesia. Vari- Yes. Terima kasih.
ous dialects of Chinese are spoken by those No. Kembali. (I)
of Chinese ancestry in Borneo, although Please. Sama-sama. (M)
Mandarin is fairly widely spoken and under- Thank you.
stood. You’re welcome.

You’ll find it easy to get by with only Eng-
lish in Borneo, particularly in Sabah, Sarawak My name is …
and Brunei. English is the most common Nama saya …
second language for Borneo’s ethnic groups What’s your name?
and is often used by people of different back- Siapa nama anda/kamu? (I/M)
grounds, like ethnic Chinese and ethnic Ma- Do you speak English?
lays, to communicate with one another. Anda bisa Bahasa Inggris? (I)
Adakah anda berbahasa Inggeris? (M)
In both Bahasa Malaysia and Bahasa In- I (don't) understand.
donesia, most letters are pronounced more Saya (tidak) mengerti. (I)
or less the same as their English counter- Saya (tidak) faham. (M)
parts, except for the letter c which is always
pronounced as the ‘ch’ in ‘chair’. Nearly all
syllables carry equal emphasis, but a good
approximation is to lightly stress the second-
last syllable. The main exception to the rule is
the unstressed e in words such as besar (big),
which sounds like the ‘a’ in ‘ago’.


Do you have any rooms available? To get by in Indonesian and Malay,
Ada kamar/bilik kosongkah? (I/M) mix and match these simple patterns
with words of your choice:
How much is it per day/person?
Berapa harga satu malam/orang? When's (the next bus)?
Jam berapa (bis yang berikutnya)?
L anguage AC C O M M O DAT I O N  Is breakfast included? Where's (the station)?
Makan pagi termasukkah? Di mana (stasiun)?
How much is it (per night)?
campsite tempat kemah (I) Berapa (satu malam)?
tempat perkhemahan (M) I'm looking for (a hotel).
guesthouse rumah yang disewakan (I) Saya cari (hotel).
rumah tetamu (M) Do you have (a local map)?
hotel Ada (peta daerah)?
hotel losmen pemuda (I) Is there a (lift)?
youth hostel asrama belia (M) Ada (lift)?
Can I (enter)?
Boleh saya (masuk)?
single room kamar untuk seorang (I) Do I need (a visa)?
bilik untuk seorang (M) Saya harus pakai (visa)?
tempat tidur besar I have (a reservation).
room with a satu kamar (I) Saya (sudah punya booking).
double bed bilik untuk dua orang (M) I need (assistance).
kamar dengan dua Saya perlu (dibantu).
tempat tidur (I) I'd like (the menu).
room with two bilik yang ada dua katil (M) Saya minta (daftar makanan).
beds I'd like (to hire a car).
Saya mau (sewa mobil).
Could you (help me)?
air-con AC (pronounced ‘a-se’) (I) Bisa Anda (bantu) saya?
pendingin udara (M)
bathroom kamar mandi (I)
bilik air (M)
obat nyamuk
mosquito coil jendela/tingkap (I/M)

DIRECTIONS Turn left/right. Belok kiri/kanan.

Where is …? Go straight ahead. Jalan terus.
Di mana …?
What’s the address?
Apa alamatnya? A table for (two), please.
Meja untuk (dua) orang.
Could you write it down, please?
Anda bisa tolong tuliskan? (I) What's in that dish?
Tolong tuliskan alamat itu? (M) Hidangan itu isinya apa? (I)
Ada apa dalam masakan itu? (M)
Can you show me (on the map)?
Bisa tunjukkan kepada saya (di peta)? (I) Bring the bill/check, please.
Tolong tunjukkan (di peta)? (M) Tolong bawa kuitansi/bil. (I/M)

at the corner di sudut/simpang (I/M) I don't eat … Saya tidak mau
di lampu lalu-lintas (I) makan … (I)
at the traffic lights di tempat lampu isyarat (M) Saya tak suka
di belakang makan … (M)
behind jauh (dari)
far (from) di depan chicken ayam
dekat (dengan)
in front of di seberang (I) fish ikan
near (to) berhadapan dengan (M)
opposite (red) meat daging (merah)

nuts biji-bijian/kacang (I/M)

Signs Fruit & Vegetables 323
Dilarang Open apple apel/epal (I/M)
Kamar Kecil (I) Prohibited
Keluar Toilets banana pisang
Lelaki (M) Exit
Masuk Men carrot wortel/lobak (I/M)
Perempuan (M) Entrance
Pria (I) Women cucumber ketimun/timun (I/M) L anguage E AT I N G & D R I N K I N G
Tandas (M) Men
Tutup Toilets jackfruit nangka
Wanita (I) Closed
Women mango mangga

orange jeruk manis/oren (I/M)

peanut kacang

starfruit belimbing

tomato tomat/tomato (I/M)

watermelon semangka/tembikai (I/M)

Key Words Other

bottle botol bread roti
cheese keju
breakfast sarapan pagi egg telur
ice es/ais (I/M)
cold dingin/sejuk (I/M) rice nasi
salt garam
cup cangkir/cawan (I/M) sugar gula

dinner makan malam

food makanan

fork garpu/garfu (I/M)

glass gelas

hot panas

knife pisau Drinks

lunch makan siang/tengahari (I/M) beer bir
bottled water air botol
market pasar citrus juice air jeruk/limau (I/M)
coffee kopi
menu daftar makanan (I) milk susu
menu (M) tea teh
water air
plate piring/pinggan (I/M) anggur/wain (I/M)
restaurant restoran

spicy pedas

spoon sendok/sedu (I/M)

vegetarian makanan tanpa daging (I) EMERGENCIES
sayuran saja (M)

with dengan Tolong!

without tanpa Help!

Stop! Berhenti!

Meat & Fish I’m lost. Saya sesat.

Go away! Pergi!

beef daging sapi/lembu (I/M)

chicken ayam There’s been an accident.
Ada kecelakaan/kemalangan. (I/M)
crab kepiting/ketam (I/M) Call the doctor/police!
Panggil doktor/polis!
fish ikan I’m ill.
Saya sakit.
lamb daging anak domba (I) It hurts here.
anak biri-biri (M) Sakitnya di sini. (I)
Sini sakit. (M)
mussels remis/kepah (I/M)

pork babi

shrimp udang

I’m allergic to (nuts). in the morning pagi
324 Saya alergi terhadap (biji-bijian). (I) in the afternoon siang/tengahari (I/M)
in the evening malam/petang (I/M)
Saya alergik kepada (kacang). (M)
kemarin/semalam (I/M)
L anguage S H O P P I N G & S E R V I C E S SHOPPING & SERVICES yesterday hari ini
today besok/esok (I/M)
I’d like to buy … tomorrow
Saya mau/nak beli … (I/M) hari Senin/Isnin (I/M)
I’m just looking. Monday hari Selasa
Saya lihat-lihat saja. (I) Tuesday hari Rabu
Saya nak tengok saja. (M) Wednesday hari Kamis
May I look at it? Thursday hari Jumat/Jumaat (I/M)
Boleh saya lihat? (I) Friday hari Sabtu
Boleh saya tengok barang itu? (M) Saturday hari Minggu
How much is it? Sunday
Berapa harganya? Januari
It's too expensive. January Februari
Itu terlalu mahal. (I) February Maret/Mac (I/M)
Mahalnya. (M) March April
Can you lower the price? April Mei
Boleh kurang? May Juni/Jun (I/M)
There’s a mistake in the bill. June Juli/Julai (I/M)
Ada kesalahan dalam kuitansi ini. (I) July Agustus/Ogos (I/M)
Bil ini salah. (M) August September
September Oktober
ATM ATM (pronounced ‘a-te-em’) October November
credit card kartu/kad kredit (I/M) November Desember
internet cafe warnet (I) December
cyber cafe (M)
post office kantor/pejabat pos (I/M)
public phone telpon umum/awam (I/M)
tourist office kantor pariwisata (I)
pejabat pelancong (M)


What time is it? Public Transport
Jam berapa sekarang? (I)
Pukul berapa? (M) What time does Jam/Pukul berapa
the … leave? … berangkat? (I/M)
It’s (seven) o’clock.
Jam/Pukul (tujuh). (I/M) boat kapal

It’s half past (one). bus bis/bas (I/M)
Setengah (dua). (I)
(lit: half two) plane pesawat (I)
Pukul (satu) setengah. (M) kapal terbang (M)

train kereta api

Question Words Bagaimana? I want to go to …
How? Saya mau/nak ke … (I/M)
Does it stop at … ?
What? Apa? Berhenti di …?
How long will it be delayed?
When? Kapan? (I) Berapa lama keterlambatannya? (I)
Bila? (M) Berapa lambatnya? (M)
I’d like to get off at …
Where? Di mana? Saya mau/nak turun di … (I/M)

Who? Siapa?

Why? Mengapa?

Numbers bus station terminal bis (I) 325
1 stesen bas (M)
2 satu bus stop halte bis (I) L anguage T R A N S P O R T
3 dua perhentian bas (M)
4 tiga cancelled dibatalkan
5 empat delayed terlambat/lambat (I/M)
6 lima platform peron/landasan (I/M)
7 enam ticket office loket/pejabat tiket (I/M)
8 tujuh timetable jadwal/jadual waktu (I/M)
delapan (I)
lapan (M) Driving & Cycling
9 sembilan
10 sepuluh I’d like to hire Saya mau sewa … (I)
20 dua puluh a … Saya nak menyewa … (M)
30 tiga puluh
40 empat puluh bicycle sepeda/basikal (I/M)
50 lima puluh
60 enam puluh car mobil/kereta (I/M)
70 tujuh puluh
80 delapan puluh (I) jeep jip
lapan puluh (M)
sembilan puluh motorbike sepeda motor (I)
90 seratus motosikal (M)
100 seribu
1000 diesel solar/disel (I/M)
helem (I)
helmet topi keledar (M)
bensin/petrol (I/M)
petrol pompa/pam (I/M)


Please put the meter on. Is this the road to …?
Tolong pakai argo/meter. (I/M) Ini jalan ke …?
Please stop here. Where’s a service station?
Tolong berhenti di sini. Di mana pompa bensin? (I)
Stesen minyak di mana? (M)
I’d like a … ticket. Saya mau/nak tiket … (I/M) (How long) Can I park here?
(Berapa lama) Saya boleh parkir di sini? (I)
1st-class kelas satu (I) (Beberapa lama) Boleh saya letak kereta di sini? (M)
kelas pertama (M) I need a mechanic.
Saya perlu montir. (I)
2nd-class kelas dua (I) Kami memerlukan mekanik. (M)
kelas kedual (M) The car has broken down at …
Mobil mogok di … (I)
one-way sekali jalan (I) Kereta saya telah rosak di … (M)
sehala (M) I have a flat tyre.
Ban saya kempes. (I)
return pulang pergi (I) Tayarnya kempis. (M)
pergi balik (M) I’ve run out of petrol/gas.
Saya kehabisan bensin. (I)
the first pertama Minyak sudah habis. (M)
the last terakhir
the next


L anguage G LO S S A R Y (m) indicates masculine gender, ikat – fabric patterned by macaque – any of several
(f) feminine gender and (pl) tie-dying the yarn before small species of monkey
plural weaving mandi – bathe; Southeast
ai – small river istana – palace Asian wash basin
air – water masjid – mosque
angkot – short for angkutan jalan – road (abbreviated as Melayu Islam Beraja –
kota (city transport); small ‘Jln’ or ‘Jl’) Malay Islamic Monarchy,
minibuses covering city known as MIB; Brunei’s
routes in Kalimantan kampung – village; also national ideology
spelt kampong merdeka – independence
Bahasa Indonesia – official kapal biasa – river boats muara – river mouth
language of Indonesia with second-storey accom- muezzin – mosque official
Bahasa Malaysia – official modation (Kalimantan) who calls the faithful to
language of Malaysia karst – characteristic prayer
bandar – seaport; town s­ cenery of a limestone
bandung – floating general ­region, including features negara – country
store (Kalimantan) such as underground negeri – state
Barisan Nasional – streams and caverns
N­ ational Front, com- kedai kopi – eatery, often ojek – motorcycle taxi
monly abbreviated as with several food stalls; (Kalimantan)
BN; ­Malaysia’s federal ­literally, ‘coffee shop’ opelet – minibus
ruling political force since ­(Bahasa Malaysia) (Kalimantan)
i­ndependence kerangas – heath forest; in Orang Asli – literally,
batang – stem; tree trunk; Iban, means ‘land that can- ‘original people’; Malaysian
the main branch of a river not grow rice’ aborigines
batik – technique of keraton – palace Orang Laut – literally,
i­mprinting cloth with dye Kijang – taxi (Kalimantan); ‘coastal people’
to produce multicoloured Indonesian brand name of a Orang Ulu – literally,
patterns Toyota minibus or pick-up ‘upriver people’
batu – stone; rock; milepost KK – Kota Kinabalu; capital
becak – bicycle rickshaw of Sabah padang – grassy area; field;
(Kalimantan) klotok – houseboat also the city square
belian – ironwood ­(Kalimantan) pantai – beach
BSB – Bandar Seri Konfrontasi – literally, parang – long jungle knife
B­ egawan; capital of Brunei ‘confrontation’; catchphrase pasar – market
bukit – hill of the early 1960s when pasar malam – night
bumiputra – literally, Soekarno embarked on a market
‘sons of the soil’; people confrontational campaign pegunungan – mountain
c­ onsidered indigenous against Western imperialism (Kalimantan)
under Malaysian law aimed at Malaysia pelabuhan – port
kopitiam – eatery, often pondok – hut or shelter
ces – motorised canoe with several food stalls; pulau – island
l­iterally, ‘coffee shop’
Dayak – indigenous ­(Chinese term) rajah – prince; ruler
peoples of Borneo; term kota – fort; city ranee – princess or rajah’s
used mostly in Kalimantan kuala – river mouth; place wife
and Sarawak where a tributary joins a rattan – stems from
dipterocarp – family of larger river ­climbing palms used for
commercially valuable wickerwork and canes
­rainforest trees langur – small, usually tree- rimba – jungle
dusun – small town; dwelling monkey rumah – house
­orchard; fruit grove laut – sea rumah batang – longhouse
lebuh – street (Kalimantan)
gua – cave lorong – narrow street; alley rumah panjai – longhouse;
gunung – mountain (abbreviated ‘Lg’) also spelt rumah panjang
losmen – budget

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

sarong – all-purpose cloth, tanjung – headland ulu – upriver 327
often sewn into a tube, and teksi – taxi UMNO – United Malays
worn by women, men and teluk – bay; sometimes ­National Organisation; L anguage G LO S S A R Y
children; also spelt sarung spelt telok Malaysia’s largest political
seberang – opposite side of party
road; far bank of a river temenggong – Malay UNDP – United Nations
selat – strait administrator Development Programme
simpang – crossing;
j­unction temuai – shallow-draft Iban warung – small eating stalls
songket – traditional Malay longboat White Rajahs – dynasty
hand-woven fabric with gold that founded and ruled the
threads transmigrasi – trans­ Kingdom of Sarawak from
songkok – traditional Malay migration; Indonesian 1841 to 1946
men’s hat government policy to move wisma – office block or
sungai – river people from densely popu- shopping centre
lated islands such as Java, WWF – World Wide Fund
tambang – river ferry; fare Bali and Madura to more for Nature
tamu – market remote areas, including

tuak – rice wine
tunku – prince

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use,
access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair
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OUR READERS Helen van Lindere, Jeremy Clark, Peter Hogge
and my guides Bian Rumai, Esther Abu,
Many thanks to the travellers who used Jeffry Simun, Susan Pulut and Syria Lejau
the last edition and wrote to us with help- (Gunung Mulu National Park); Apoi Ngimat,
ful hints, useful advice and interesting Jaman Riboh, Joanna Joy, Rebita Lupong,
anecdotes: Rian John Pasan Lamulun, Stephen and Tine,
Antonio Almeida, Alexandra Bardswell, ­Tamara and Stu Roach (Bario); Mr Lim (Chong Teah),
Bedeaux, Neesha Copley, A­ ugusto Garolla, Mr Chua (Eng Hin) and Ferdinand Gibson
Paul Gurn, Lloyd Jones, Laurel ­Kinrade, Cyril (Limbang); the dedicated staff of Sarawak’s
and Danielle Lousberg, Petra O’Neill, Bettina national parks; Glenn van Zutphen, Leonard
Ortmann, Christine Overvelde, Glenn Owens, Koh, Michelle Elias Solomon and Seng Beng
Andrea Sanfilippo, Jeanie and Jim Schaden, Yeo and their families (Singapore); and,
Chronis Sofianidis, ­Fabian S­ pettel, Brian ­finally, my beloved wife Rachel Safman,
S­ trating, Eileen Synnott, M­ aurice van Dael, our son Yair Lev and my mother-in-law Edie
Johnno Van Havere, and Laszlo Wagner S­ afman (Los Angeles).


Daniel Robinson Terima kasih: Katie King, rockstar contact
who redefines break dancing; the people
Scores of people went out of their way to who gave me insight, Charlie Ryan, Jessica
make this a better book, but I’m especially in- Yew, Tom, Joel, Silas and Howard, I’m greatly
debted to Amélie Blanc, Borbala Nyiri, Donald privileged to have met you, and to have had
and Marina Tan, Eric and Annie Yap, Jacque- the opportunity to explore your island with
line Fong, Jo-Lynn Liao, Kelvin Egay, Polycarp, you; Angelica, the baddest ass bartender
Mathew Ngau Jau, Philip Yong, Thomas Ulrich in Oakland, thanks for the laughs; Alex
and Vernon Kedit (Kuching); Jessie, Noriza Z­ awadzki, Daniele Cohen, Serge, Johnny
and Peter Tiong (Sibu); Paul Chuo, Sandra and the rest, your company was always
Kromdijk, Vincent Tiong and Wouter Mullink hilarious;­Mom and Dad, thanks for your
(Kapit); Camille de Kerchove, Captain David constant support; and Rachel, for your love,
(Bennet), Elyn Chan and family, and Mrs and your voice every morning and evening
Lee (Miri); Amy McGoldrick, Antonella Mori, when I’m away. 



My thanks to the many people who guided Climate map data adapted from Peel MC,
me safely from one end of Kalimantan to the Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated
other, and back again: Lucas, Rahim, Ahmad, World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate
Kaya and family, Alex, Erwin, Gaye, Aini, Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System
Shady. To my coauthors, for all their valuable Sciences, 11, 1633­44.
advice and comments along the way. And Cover photograph: Danum Valley, Frans
to Ilaria, for making the Cross-Borneo Trek L­ anting/National Geographic Stock

THIS BOOK Health chapter, which was then Managing Layout
revised by Daniel Robinson. This Designer Jane Hart
This 3rd edition of Lonely guidebook was commissioned in Cover Research Naomi
Planet’s Borneo guidebook Lonely Planet’s Melbourne office, Parker
was researched and written and produced by the following: Internal Image Research
by a ­stellar team of intrepid Commissioning Editors Aude Vauconsant
travel experts who have an un­ Suki Gear, Ilaria Walker Language Content
paralleled passion for a­ dventure Coordinating Editors ­Branislava Vladisavljevic
and the wilder parts of the Catherine Naghten, Gabrielle
world. LP veteran, passionate Stefanos Thanks to Elin Berglund,
eco-traveller and Borneo-­phile Coordinating Carto­ Jasna Bratic, ­Rebecca Chau,
Daniel R­ obinson led the team. grapher James Leversha Lauren Egan, Ryan Evans, Larissa
He researched Sarawak, and Coordinating Layout Frost, Chris Girdler, Bronwyn
wrote the Plan, Understand and Designer Clara Monitto Hicks, Genesys India, Jouve India,
Survival Guide chapters. Paul Managing Editors Eva Murphy, Mardi O’Connor,
Stiles survived his crazy research Sasha Baskett, Bruce Evans Trent Paton, Kirsten Rawlings,
trip to Kalimantan, and the hilari- Managing Cartographers Raphael R­ ichards, Kate Sullivan,
ous and charming Adam Karlin Anita Bahn, Diana von Holdt Gerard Walker
researched Sabah and wrote the
Diving Pulau Sipadan chapter.
Dr Trish Batchelor wrote the

330 Bario 186-90 British North Borneo Company 270
Batang Ai region 158-9 Brooke family 269-70
1Malaysia 267 Batang Duri 212
Batang Rejang 163-8 Brooke, James 269, 270, 270
A bathrooms 308 Brunei 35, 196-214, 197
bats 84, 108, 172, 182, 295
ABC 286 Batu Daya 248 accommodation 196
accommodation 300-1, see also  Bau 153-5 climate 196
Bawang Assan Longhouse Village food 196
individual locations highlights 197
activities 20-5 159-60 national parks 290
air pollution 293 beaches Brunei Museum 199, 202
air travel 15, 235, 311, 312 budgeting 14, 301, 304
alcohol 280 Bako National Park 145 Bulungan 242
ambuyat 205 Balikpapan 220 bus travel 313-14
animals 295-7, see also  Kemala Beach 220 business hours 301-2
Lundu 155 butterflies 65
individual animals Muara 202
Annah Rais Longhouse 150-1 Pulau Datok Beach 248 C
area codes 15, 307-8 Pulau Manukan 54
art galleries, see museums & galleries Santubong Peninsula 146 cakes 137, 284
ASRI 249 Similajau National Park 169-71 camping 301
ATMs 306 Tanjung Aru 45 canopy walks 20, 65, 89, 102
bearded pigs 297 car travel 315
B bee stings 319 caves 24-5, 182-4
Belaga 167
Ba Kelalan 190 Belait District 209-10 Batu Tulug 82-3
Bahasa Indonesia 321 Clearwater Cave 182
Bahasa Malaysia 321 Berau 238-9, 239 Deer Cave 6, 182
Bako National Park 13, 142-6 bicycle travel 312, 316 Fairy Cave 154
balan-balan 68 Bidayuh people 274 Gomantong Caves 84
Balikpapan 220-5, 221 Bilit 85-6 Lang’s Cave 182
bamboo chicken 281 Niah National Park 171-3
Bandar Labuan 109, 110 Bintulu 168-9, 170 show caves 182
Bandar Seri Begawan 198-209, 200-1 biofuel 293 Wind Cave (Bau) 153-4
bird watching Wind Cave (Gunung Mulu) 182
accommodation 203-4 cell phones 15, 307-8
activities 198-202 Danum Valley Conversation Area 89 cemeteries 71-2, 130, 110
drinking 206 children, travel with 302, 320
food 204-6 Gomantong Caves 84 Chinese cuisine 285-6
internet access 207 Chinese museums 124
medical services 207 Kelabit Highlands 187 Chinese people 118, 266-7, 268,
shopping 206 270
sights 198-202 Kinabalu National Park 61-2 Chinese New Year 132
tourist information 207 Christianity 267, 277-8, 280
tours 202-3 Mt Kinabalu 62 climate 14, 18-19, 288
travel to/from 208-9 climate change 312
travel within 208-9 Tawau Hills Park 101 consulates 303
Bangar 211-12 birds 298, see also individual birds cooking courses 131
Banjarmasin 259-62, 261 bites & stings 319-20
coral reefs 116, 288, 116-17
000 Map pages boat tours 10, 25, 11 costs 14, 301, 304
000 Photo pages Sungai Kahayan 258 credit cards 14, 305-6
Sungai Kinabatangan 83-4 crocodiles 144, 149, 153, 170, 223, 307
Sungai Mahakam 229-30, 231, 235 Cross-Borneo Trek 9, 219
Sungai Rungan 258 cultural villages, see also
Tanjung Puting National Park 253
boat travel 311-12, 312-13, 316 Mari Mari Cultural Village 41-2
Bobo 251 Monsopiad Cultural Village 44
body art 276 Sarawak Cultural Village 146-7, 278
Bohebekut 241
Bohesilian 241 culture 118, 273-80, 118-19
Bolkiah, Sultan Hassanal 19, 272 currency 14, 15, 305-6
books 21, 273, 274, 295 customs regulations 302
cycling, see bicycle travel
border crossings 314
Brunei–Sabah 112, 207
Brunei–Sarawak 181, 208
Sabah–Kalimantan 100
Sabah–Philippines 77
Sarawak–Kalimantan 151, 193


D mosques 225 Sabah 66, 86, 96, 105, 111 INDE X D - K
pointing 266 Sarawak 148, 150, 151, 154, 157, 159,
dangers 306-7 European colonisation 268-70
Danum Valley Conservation Area 10, events, see festivals & events 173, 188, 190, 191
exchange rates 15
88-90, 11 hornbills 114, 277, 298, 115
Data Dawai 235 F hot springs
Dayak people 13, 118, 266-7, 273-80,
ferns 283, 298 Muara Tanuhi Hot Springs 264
13, 119 ferries 311-12 Poring 65
agriculture 278 festivals & events 18-19, 306 Tawau Hills Park 101
body art 276 hydroelectric dams 293-4
cuisine 134, 280, 281-4 Baleh-Kapit Raft Safari 165
languages 14 Chinese New Year 132 I
religion 275-7 Erau Festival 231
death marches 74 Gawai Dayak 280 Iban people 273, 276, 113
deforestation 292 Kuching Festival Fair 132 independence 272
dehydration 319 Rainforest World Music Festival indigenous peoples 273-80
demographics 266-7 Indonesian language 321
dengue fever 318 132 Indo-Pacific basin 29
Derawan Archipelago 12, 29, first-aid kits 317-18 insect bites 319-20
239-42, 12 flags 310 insurance 304, 317
diamonds 263, 269 food 281-6, 304, see also internet access 304
diarrhoea 320 internet resources 15, 318
dipterocarp forests 288-9 individual dishes Islam 44, 129-30, 199, 267, 268, 269
disabilities, travellers with 308 Chinese cuisines 285-6 Islamic separatists 272
diving 26-9, 116, 28, 116-17, see also Dayak cuisine 134, 280, 281-4 islands
snorkelling hawker stalls 50, 99
Derawan archipelago 241 Kota Kinabalu 49 Juanta Island 248
dive sites 27, 28 Malay cuisine 284-5 Kapalai 27, 97
Layang Layang 70-1 foreign exchange 15, 306 Nunukan Island 241-2
Mabul 95-6 fungal rashes 320 Pulau Banggi 70
Pulau Lankayan 81-2 Pulau Derawan 12, 240-1
Pulau Mantanani 70 G Pulau Gaya 54
responsible diving 29 Pulau Kakaban 242
safety 319 galleries, see museums & galleries Pulau Kumala 231
Semporna Archipelago 93-7 gardens, see parks & gardens Pulau Labuan 109-12
Sipadan 93-5 Gawai Dayak 280 Pulau Lankayan 81-2
travel seasons 26 gay travellers 304 Pulau Mantanani 29, 70
Tunku Abdul Rahman National geology 287-8 Pulau Manukan 54
gibbons 297 Pulau Maratua 241
Park 54 Gomantong Caves 84 Pulau Natuna 243
dolphins 233 Gunung Bengoh 154-5 Pulau Sangalaki 242
drinking water 320 Gunung Gading National Park 155-6 Pulau Sapi 54
durian 283 Gunung Kinabalu 56-64, 57, 63 Pulau Satang 158
Dusun people 274, 277 Gunung Mulu National Park 6, 23, Pulau Selirong 212
Pulau Sipadan 26-9, 93-5
E 24-5, 180-6, 2-3, 6-7 Pulau Sulug 55
Pulau Talang-Talang 158
earlobes, elongated 276 H Pulau Tekaneng 250
economy 266 itineraries 30-3
ecotourism 45, 48, 69, 77-8, 85, habitats 288-9
halal food 285 J
90, 178 hawker stalls 50, 99
electricity 302-3 headhunting 267, 270, 277-8 Jalan Labi 209
elephants 83, 85, 90, 297 health 317-20 Jantur 233
embassies 303 Heart of Borneo program 294 Japanese occupation 271
emergencies 15 heat stroke 319 jellyfish 319-20
environmental issues 29, 289-94, heath forests 288
hiking, see trekking K
295 history 56, 124, 218, 268-72
Erau Festival 231 hitching 316 Kadazan people 274, 277
ethnic groups 266-7, 273-80 holidays 306 Kalimantan 35, 215-64, 216-17
etiquette homestays 301
accommodation 215
dress 15 Brunei 211 climate 215
leeches 266 Kalimantan 234, 254, 255
longhouses 266, 280


INDE X K- M Kalimantan continued tourist information 139 Maliau Basin Conservation Area 6,
tours 131-2 101-3, 289
culture 218 travel to/from 140
highlights 216-17 travel within 141-2 Mancong 233
history 218 Kuching Wetlands National Park 148-9 mangroves 289
national parks 291 Kudat 69 maps 304-5
safety 220 Kumai 254-5 markets
travel seasons 215 Kutai National Park 236-7
travel to/from 218, 220 Balikpapan 223
travel within 220 L Kota Belud 67
wildlife 218 Kota Kinabalu 40, 41
Kampong Buli Sim Sim 73-4 Lahad Datu 87-8
Kampung Benuk 150 laksa 136, 284 Kuching 131, 120
Kandangan 262-3 Lambir Hills National Park 173-4 Palangka Raya 256
Kapalai 27, 97 land rights 278 Ranau 65
Kapit 164-7, 166 language 14, 321-7 Sibu 161
kek lapis (layer cakes) 137, 284 Mataking 27, 97
Kelabit Highlands 13, 186-92 accommodation 322 measures 302
Kelabit people 276 Dayak 14 medical services 318
kerangas (heath forests) 288 emergencies 323 Melak 234-5
Kinabalu National Park 9, 56-64, food 322-3 Meliau 250
57, 63, 9 signs 323 Mengkabong Water Village 67
accommodation 62-4 time 324 Mesilau Nature Resort 64-5
climbing trails 59-61 transport 324-5 MIB (Melayu Islam Beraja) 267
permits & planning 57-9 Lanjak 250
via ferrata 61 Layang Layang 29, 70-1 Miri 29, 174-80, 176-7
walking trails 61-2 leeches 22, 297, 319 mobile phones 15, 307-8
Kinabatangan Orang-utan etiquette 266 money 14, 15, 305-6
C­ onservation Project legal matters 304 monitor lizards 55
(KOCP) 83 leptospirosis 318
Kinabatangan River 82-7 lesbian travellers 304 monkeys 79-80, 144, 203, 296-7, 13
klotok 13, 13 Limbang Division 193-5 montane forests 289
Konfrontasi 272 lizards 54, 55 mosques
Kota Belud 67-8 logging 249, 292
Kota Kinabalu 40-54, 42 Loksado 8, 263-4 City Mosque 44-5
accommodation 46-8 Long Bagun 235 etiquette 225, 310
drinking 50-1 long ears 276 Indian Mosque 125
emergencies 51 longboat tours, see boat tours Jame’Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque
food 48-50 longhouses 8, 275, 301, 8
internet access 51 Annah Rais Longhouse 150 201
medical services 51 Batang Rejang 163, 165, 167 Masjid Agung At-Taqwa 220
shopping 51 Bawang Assan Longhouse Village Masjid Sultan Suriansyah 260
sights 40-5 Mesjid Abdurrahman 242
tours 45-6 159-60 Mesjid Raya Darussalam 225
travel to/from 52-3 etiquette 279, 280 Mesjid Raya Sabilal Muhtadin 259
travel within 53-4 Rungus longhouses 70 Mesjid Siratal Mustaqim 225
Kuala Belait 210-11 Sarawak Cultural Village 146, 278 Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque 198-9,
Kubah National Park 151-3 visiting 278-80
Kuching 8, 124-42, 126-7, 8 lowland forests 288-9 118-19
accommodation 132 Lundu 155 Samarinda Islamic Centre 225
activities 131 State Mosque 45
climate 121 M mosquitoes 318-19
drinking 136-7 mountain climbing 20, 23-4, 56-61,
entertainment 137-8 Mabul 27, 95-6 184
festivals 132 macaques 144, 203 mouse deer 297
food 134-6, 137 Mahakam River 228-35
shopping 138-42 malaria 318-19 Mt Kinabalu 9, 23, 56-64, 9,
Malay see also Kinabalu National Park
sights 124-31
cuisine 284-5 Muara Muntai 232-3
000 Map pages language 321 Muara Pahu 234
000 Photo pages people 266-7 Muller Mountains 235-6
Malay Islamic Monarchy 267 museums & galleries, see
Malaysian flag 310
also ­cultural villages
Agnes Keith House 73
Art Museum 129
Brunei Museum 199, 202
Cat Museum 131
Chinese History Museum ­124
Dewan Tun Abdul Razak 129


Ethnology Museum 128 Tanjung Datu National Park 157 budgeting 14 INDE X M - S
Forestry Museum 209 Tanjung Puting National Park 13, calendar of events 18-19
Fort Sylvia 164 children, travel with 302, 320
Interpretation Centre 142 251-4, 13 internet resources 15, 318
Islamic Museum 129-30 Tawau Hills Park 101 itineraries 30-3
Istana Kadriyah 242 Tunku Abdul Rahman National travel seasons 14, 18-19, 26
Junglebluesdream Art Gallery 187 plants 298
Keraton/Mulawarman Museum 231 Park 54-6 politics 266
Kota Kinabalu Wetland Centre 44 Wehea Forest 237-8 Pom Pom 97
Labuan Marine Museum 109 Wind Cave Nature Reserve 153-4
Labuan Museum 109 Natuna Archipelago 243 Pontianak 242-8, 244
Lau King Howe Memorial Negara 263 population 266, 273
newspapers 266, 302 Poring Hot Springs 65
Museum 159 Ngaju Dayak people 274 proboscis monkeys 79-80, 296-7
Limbang Regional Museum 193 Niah National Park 171-3 prostitution 228
Malay Technology Museum 200 Nonya cuisine 285 public holidays 306
Mulu Discovery Centre 181 North Borneo Chartered Company 271 pulau, see islands
Museum Batiwakkal 238 Nunukan Island 241-2 Pulau Derawan 12, 240-1
Museum Lambung Mangkurat 263 Pulau Labuan 109-12
Museum of Islamic Civilisation 44 O Pulau Sipadan 26-9, 93-5
Museum Provinsi Kalimantan Putussibau 249-50
oil palms 292-3
Barat 242-3 opening hours 301-2 R
Niah Archaeology Museum 172 orangutan sanctuaries & reserves
Oil & Gas Discovery Centre 210 rabies 319
Petroleum Museum 175 Sabah 12, 67, 77-8, 79, 83, 3, 12 radio 302
Royal Regalia Museum 199 Sarawak 10, 149-50, 10 Rafflesias 155-6, 296
Sabah Museum 41 Kalimantan 251
Sarawak Museum 128 orangutans 114, 252, 295-6, 114-15 rafting 264, 8
Sarawak Textile Museum 125 orchids 45, 65, 298, 115 Rahai’i Pangun 258
Sibu Heritage Centre 159 Ramadan 199
Tun Jugah Foundation 130 P Ranau 65
Twelve Roofs House 200-1 Regatta Lepa 94
pagodas, see temples & pagodas religion 266
N palang 276
Palangka Raya 256-9, 257 Islam 44, 129-30, 199, 267, 268, 269
Nabucco 12, 241-2 palm oil 292-3 Christianity 267, 277-8, 280
national parks & reserves 290-1 Pampang 227 Dayak animism 275-7
Pangkalan Bun 255-6, 255 rhinoceroses 297
Bako National Park 13, 142-6 parks & gardens rice 281, 282
Batang Ai National Park 158-9 rice wine (tuak) 280, 283-4
Danau Sentarum National Park 250 Miri City Fan 174 river cruises, see boat tours
Danum Valley Conservation Area Museum Garden 129 rock climbing 83
Palmetum 152 Ruko Bandar 220
10, 88-90, 11 Pangkalan Bun Park 255
Gunung Gading National Park Taman Alun Kapuas 242 S
Taman Tumbina 168
155-6 tropical garden 65 Sabah 34, 38-112, 39
Gunung Mulu National Park 6, 23, Sabah Agricultural Park 105 accommodation 38
passports 308-10 food 38
24-5, 180-6, 2-3, 6-7 Patung Khatulistiwa 243 highlights 39
Gunung Palung National Park 248 peat forests 289 national parks 290
Penan people 189, 274 travel seasons 38
Kinabalu National Park 9, 56-64, 9 land rights 278 weather 38
Kota Kinabalu Wetland Centre 44 villages 194
Kubah National Park 151-3 penanggalan 68 safety 306-7, 319-20
Kuching Wetlands National Park permits, see also visas Bako National Park 144
Kinabalu National Park 57-8 diving 319
148-9 Upper Rejang 164 drinking water 320
Kutai National Park 236-7 pigs 297 Kalimantan 220
Lambir Hills National Park 173-4 Pinnacles, the 184, 6-7 Muller Mountains 236
Maliau Basin Conservation Area 6, pitcher plants 142, 288, 114
planning 20-5 sago 281
101-3, 289 Borneo basics 14-15 salt licks 190
Niah National Park 171-3 Borneo’s regions 34-5
Peradayan Forest Reserve 212 Samarinda 225-8, 226
Semenggoh Nature Reserve 10,

149-50, 10
Similajau National Park 169-71
Talang-Satang National Park 157-9

INDE X S -Z334 T V

Samboja Lestari 223 Talang-Satang National Park 157-9 vacations 306
Sandakan 71-7, 72 Tanjung Datu National Park 157 vaccinations 317
Sandakan Archipelago 81-2 Tanjung Harapan 252 vegetarian travellers 280, 286
Sandakan death marches 74 Tanjung Isuy 233 via ferrata 61
Sandakan prison 271 Tanjung Lokan 250-1 visas 15, 308-10
Santubong Peninsula 146-8 Tanjung Puting National Park 13, volunteering 153, 158, 310
Sarawak 35, 121-95, 122-3
251-4, 13 W
accommodation 121 Tanjung Selor 242
climate 121 Tarakan 242 walking 40, see also trekking
food 121 Tarawe, John 188 Warah Kubu 248
highlights 122-3 tattoos 276 wasp stings 319
history 124 Tawau 97-101, 97 water pollution 294
national parks 291 taxis 313, 315, 316 waterfalls
Sarawak laksa 136, 284 telephone services 15, 307-8
Sekonyer 252 Teluk Air 248 Brunei 214
Sematan 156-7 Temburong District 210-14 Sabah 42, 60, 91, 102, 105,
Sembakung 242 temples & pagodas
Semenggoh Nature Reserve 10, 101-2
149-50, 10 Bintulu 168 Sarawak 156, 174, 181
Semporna 91-3, 92 Keningau 104 weather 14, 18-19, 288
Semporna Archipelago 26-9 Kota Kinabalu 44 websites, see internet resources
Senterbung 241 Kuching 125 Wehea Forest 237-8
Sepilok 77-81, 78 Kudat 69 weights 302
Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation Miri 175 Western Sarawak 142-59
Centre (SORC) 77-8, 3, 12 Pontianak 242 wet season 288
Seria 210 Sandakan 73 White Rajahs 269-70
Sibu 159-63 Sibu 159, 118 wildlife 20, 114-15, 218, 295-8,
Similajau National Park 169-71 Tuaran 67 114-15
Singamata 95 Tenggarong 230-2 wildlife sanctuaries & reserves,
Singkawang 246 Tering 235 see also zoos
Sipadan 26-9, 93-5 ticks 319 Borneo Sun Bear Conservation
smoking 302 time zones 308
snorkelling 27, 116, 116-17 Tiong Ohang 235 Centre 78-9
Layang Layang 70-1 tipping 306 KWPLH Sun Bear Sanctuary
Pulau Mantanani 70 toilets 308
Pulau Manukan 54 tourist information 51-2, 308 223
Semporna Archipelago 93-7 tours 316 Labuan Bird Park 110
Sipadan 93-5 train travel 53, 316 Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey
Soeharto 272 transmigrasi 272
spelunking 24-5 travel to/from Borneo 311-12 Sanctuary 79-80
squirrels 62 travel within Borneo 15, 312-16, 314 Matang Wildlife Centre 152-3
Stewart, Duncan 271 TreeTops Lodge 178 Natural Frog Pond 152
stings & bites 319-20 trekking 20-3 Semenggoh Nature Reserve 10,
strangler figs 298 Kalimantan 9, 219, 235-6, 263-4
sugarcane wine 284 Sabah 84, 89, 59-62, 101-2 149-50, 10
Sukadana 248-9 Sarawak 144, 147, 154-5, 184, Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation
Sundaland 268
Sungai Arot 255 190-3, 194 Centre (SORC) 77-8, 3, 12
Sungai Bungan 250-1 Tringgus 154-5 Shangri La Rasa Ria Resort 67
Sungai Kapuas 249-51 tuak (rice wine) 280, 283-4 Tabin Wildlife Reserve 90-1
Sungai Kinabatangan 10, 82-7, 11 Tuaran 67 wildlife trade 294
Sungai Mahakam 228-35 Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park women travellers 310, 320
sustainable travel 29, 294 WWII 270-1
54-6 memorials 65, 73, 110
swans 161 turtles 27, 81, 93, 28 Sandakan death marches 74
Tutong District 209-10
000 Map pages TV 302 Z
000 Photo pages
U zoos, see also wildlife sanctuaries &
Ulu Temburong National Park 212-14 Borneo Orangutan Survival
Unesco World Heritage sites 6, 180-6, F­ oundation 257
Lok Kawi Wildlife Park 43-4
288, 6 Sabah Agricultural Park 105
Taman Tumbina 168


These symbols will help you find the listings you want:

1 Sights T Tours 6 Drinking Look out for
these icons:
r Beaches z Festivals & Events 3 Entertainment
o Our author’s
2 Activities 4 Sleeping 7 Shopping recommendation
C Courses 5 Eating 8 Information/
F No payment
Transport required

These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: S A green or
sustainable option
% Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bus
h Opening Hours Our authors have nominated
p Parking s Swimming Pool f Ferry these places as demonstrating
n Nonsmoking a strong commitment to
a Air-Conditioning v Vegetarian Selection m Metro sustainability – for example by
i Internet Access supporting local communities
E English-Language Menu b Subway and producers, operating in an
environmentally friendly way,
c Family-Friendly j Tram or supporting conservation
# Pet-Friendly d Train

Reviews are organised by author preference.

Map Legend Entertainment Routes Boundaries
Entertainment Tollway International
Sights Freeway State/Province
Beach Shopping Primary Disputed
Buddhist Shopping Secondary Regional/Suburb
Castle Tertiary Marine Park
Christian Information Lane Cliff
Hindu Bank Unsealed Road Wall
Islamic Embassy/ Plaza/Mall
Jewish Consulate Steps Hydrography
Monument Tunnel River, Creek
Museum/Gallery Hospital/Medical Pedestrian Intermittent River
Ruin Internet Overpass Swamp/Mangrove
Winery/Vineyard Police Reef
Zoo Post Office Walking Tour Canal
Other Sight Telephone Walking Tour Water
Toilet Detour Dry/Salt/
Activities, Courses Tourist Information Intermittent Lake
& Tours Other Information Path Glacier

Diving/Snorkelling Transport Geographic Areas
Canoeing/Kayaking Airport Hut/Shelter Beach/Desert
Skiing Border Crossing Lighthouse
Surfing Bus Lookout Cemetery
Swimming/Pool Cable Car/ Mountain/Volcano (Christian)
Walking Funicular Oasis Cemetery (Other)
Windsurfing Park
Other Activity/ Cycling Pass Park/Forest
Course/Tour Ferry Picnic Area
Sleeping Monorail Waterfall Sportsground
Sleeping Parking
Camping Petrol Station Population Sight (Building)
Taxi Capital (National)
Eating Train/Railway Capital Top Sight
Eating Tram (State/Province) (Building)
Drinking Train Station City/Large Town
Drinking Other Transport Town/Village


A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London,
Oakland and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great
guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.


Daniel Robinson
Coordinating Author, Plan Your Trip, Sarawak, Understand Borneo, Survival
Guide Daniel has been covering Southeast Asia and its rainforests since 1989,
when he researched Lonely Planet’s first, award-winning guides to Vietnam
and Cambodia. On his many visits to Sarawak, he has developed a fondness
for ­travelling ulu-ulu (way upriver) by longboat, tramping through the jungle
in search of gargantuan Rafflesia flowers, and slurping Sarawak laksa. Daniel,
who holds a BA in Near Eastern Studies from Princeton University, writes on travel for a variety of
magazines and newspapers, including the New York Times.

Read more about Daniel:
Adam Karlin
Diving Pulau Sipadan, Sabah, Brunei Adam thinks Borneo is like a savage garden,
which may explain why he loves it truly, madly, deeply. On this trip, his second
exploring Sabah (and third exploring Malaysia) for Lonely Planet, he glimpsed
primates, hiked jungle mountains, held his own in expat drinking games and
floated on his back down a river through virgin rainforest  a pretty good
­moment, that. He has written or contributed to some 30 titles for Lonely Planet.

Read more about Adam:

Paul Stiles
Kalimantan Paul specialises in islands, ecotourism, and adventure travel for
L­ onely Planet, so Kalimantan was a natural fit. For this book he completed the
entire Cross-Borneo Trek, crossing the Muller Range in five days. His only regret is
that he did not have his camera when a rare clouded leopard swam right in front
of his boat. Guide: ‘I don’t know, looks like a wild cat… Oh my god, macan dahan!’

Read more about Paul:

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3rd edition – Jun 2013 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about
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