The words you are searching are inside this book. To get more targeted content, please make full-text search by clicking here.

Borneo Travel Guidebook, Lonely Planet, 3rd Edition June 2013.

Discover the best professional documents and content resources in AnyFlip Document Base.
Search
Published by Gerahan Novianto, 2016-09-10 02:41:48

Borneo Travel Guide

Borneo Travel Guidebook, Lonely Planet, 3rd Edition June 2013.

Keywords: Lonely Planet,Indonesia,Borneo,Travel Guide

PDF

Borneo

PDF ebook

Edition 3rd Edition
Release Date June 2013
Pages 336

Useful Links

Want more guides?
Head to our shop
Trouble with your PDF?
Trouble shoot here
Need more help?
Head to our FAQs
Stay in touch
Contact us here

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to
ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’.

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”

TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT
YOUR TRIP Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions
2 to help you put together your perfect trip

Welcome to Borneo ....... 2 Welcome to
Map .................................. 4
15 Top Experiences ........ 6 Borneo
Need to Know ................. 14
If You Like ........................ 16 14 Ancient Rainforests Deforestation makes for depressing head-
Month by Month ............. 18 lines, but signiÀcant parts of the Bornean
Adventure Borneo.......... 20 Need to If you love tropical greenhouses and can’t rainforest – among the most ancient eco-
Diving Pulau Sipadan..... 26 Know wait to be enveloped by the humid fecund- systems on earth – remain intact, protected
Itineraries........................ 30 ity of a real equatorial rainforest, Borneo by conservation projects whose viability
Regions at a Glance ....... 34 will fulÀl your wildest dreams. The island’s depends, in part, on income from tourists.
jungles conjure up remoteness and peril,
bringing to mind impeLnaentrgabulaegfoeliage and Jungle Wildlife
C»alroiuMvoperkaarrlaraetkyrnsliiicprtaatnsylneriignncetglorog,sittefhorer–‘hionens»CBatarahaBthinnnaaoechasfseaatedusIadn–ardieMraoaklawennnlceaadetsyslsisk,asniD,a’.wua, Byaiatunkht-
(cReMs)e, Bmruenrgeied:otlhlaer pitchelarnpgluaangtess,sluiachnaass and For many visitors to Borneo, their most
(oBr$c)h, Iinddsonoefstiahne lowlandKafdoarzeasnt-Dguisvuen,wIbaayn,to memorable moment is a personal encoun-
rcuopniaihfe(rRsp,) rhododendrBoindasyuahnadnd Kdeila՗beirtent ter with a living creature: glimpsing a wild
kinds of orchids as you ascend the Áanks orangutan swinging through the jungle
of Mt Kinabalu. The vegetation changes canopy, spotting an Irrawaddy dolphin in
just as radically as you sail upriver from the shimmering waters of the South China
the mangroves along the South China Sea. Sea, or locking eyes with the reptilian
gaze of a saltwater croc. Jungle animals
are shy by nature, but a good guide can

When to Go Your Daily
Budget
Tropical climate, rain year-round Kota Kinabalu
# GO year-round Budget less than
Bandar Seri Begawan
GO year-round # US$30

Kuching » Dorm bed: US$4–7
# GO year-round
» Meals at food stalls,
Pontianak self-catering at fruit
# GO year-round and vegie markets

34 # Balikpapan » National park
GO year-round admission: US$3
regions
at a Banjarmasin » Almost all museums
glance # GO year-round are free

Sabah, in Borneo’s far north, brings Diving Pulau Sipadan Year-round ‘Wet’ Season High Season Midrange
together unspoilt rainforests – (Oct-Feb) (Jul-Sep)
prime orangutan habitat – Best Times for Diving The waters off the island of Sipadan were » No especially US
with some of the world’s most declared ‘one of the world’s best diving sites’ good or bad season » Indistinct wet » Accommodation $30–80
phenomenal scuba diving. More April–September This is turtle time, when by no less an expert than Jacques Cousteau. to visit. season October to and trekking guides
excellent diving awaits south of the sea turtles come to the archipelago to lay Every year, his assessment is confirmed by February; can affect may be booked out » Air-con double with
Indonesian border on Kalimantan’s their eggs in the soft sand. You’re unlikely to thousands of divers who come here to ex- » Lowland areas hot boat links to islands in some areas in July, bathroom: from
east coast, and there’s plenty of actually see turtles laying eggs, but you may plore Sipadan’s plunging sea wall, home and humid. and diving visibility. August and perhaps US$20
jungle adventure to be had inland, spot them dancing their slow ballet beneath and transit point for a staggering array of September.
along and between Kalimantan’s the waves. That said, turtles are always marine life, including green and hawksbill » Rain a possibility » Rains can render » Meals at all but the
major rivers. On the north coast, Sabah present in these waters – they’re just highly sea turtles, hammerhead sharks, parrotfish, every day, all year Kalimantan’s dirt priciest restaurants
Sarawak is home to the island’s concentrated during this period. manta rays and schools of fish so massive (but without rain, as roads impassable
most accessible national parks – Hiking & Trekking 333 they resemble silver tornadoes or shimmer- they say, it wouldn’t (October to April). » Taxis, chartered
based in the sophisticated but laid- Diving 333 July–August Visibility is often stunning at ing walls of armour. be a rainforest). motorboats or tours to
back city of Kuching, you can take Jungle Wildlife 33 this time of year, and clear views to 25m nature sites
day trips to see orangutans and (if are common. You’ll likely have to deal with But those same divers make it hard for
you’re lucky) a 75cm-wide Rafflesia Hiking & Trekking more crowds as well, as this is prime holiday Sipadan to remain ‘an untouched piece of Top end over
flower, hike in the jungle and visit Novice explorers can take a time in the northern hemisphere. Book well art’, as Cousteau put it. Sipadan is many
longhouse communities. Tiny night trek near the Sungai in advance if you want to visit during this things, including one of Borneo’s most pop- US$80
Brunei, with a tempo and culinary Kinabatangan or inch period. ular tourism destinations, but untouched it
customs all its own, offers visitors across a canopy walkway is not. The Malaysian government has seen » Luxury double room:
pristine habitats and a modernising in Poring Hot Springs, US$100
take on Malay traditions. while the fit can test their
endurance at the limestone » Seafood dinner:
outcrops of Batu Punggul US$8–20 per kilo
or on the icy peak of Mt
Kinabalu.

Diving & Snorkelling
To say Sabah is known for
its scuba scene is like sayin
France is known for its cui-
sine. The diving in spots lik
Pulau Mantanani, Layang
Layang and, of course, the
famous Sipadan is – no
exaggeration – some of the
finest in the world.

Jungle Wildlife
Hornbills shriek in trees
inhabited by pot-bellied
proboscis monkeys, and
slow-swinging through the
canopy comes the ginger

PAGE UNDERSTAND GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP
BORNEO Learn about the big picture, so you
265 can make sense of what you see

Borneo Today ................. 266 Archaeological Borneo Becomes an Island
History............................. 268 finds in western rneo was connected to mainland Southeast Asia – as art of a an
Peoples & Cultures ........ 273 Borneo include
The Cuisines of glass beads made mass known as Sundaland – from 2.5 million years ago unti some
Borneo ........................... 281 10,000 years ago, when global deglaciation turned it back into an is an .
The Land & in the Roman Archaeological evidence suggests that human beings arrived in Sarawa –
Environmental Issues.... 287 Empire. overland – at least 40,000 years ago. More migrants arrived about 3000
Wildlife ............................... 295 years ago, probably from southern China, mixing with earlier inha itants
TRADE to form some of Borneo’s indigenous groups.

Traders from India and China began stopping by Borneo – as a si e-
show to their bilateral commerce – around the 1st century AD, intro-
ducing Hinduism and Buddhism. From about AD 500, Chinese traders
started settling along Borneo’s coasts. It is believed that the influence of
the Sumatra-based kingdom of Srivijaya (7th to 13th centuries) extended
to Borneo. During this time, Brunei emerged as a centre for trade with
China; some historians believe that the first Muslims to visit Borneo
came from China in the 10th century.

The Arrival of Islam & the European Powers
Islam was brought to present-day Peninsular Malaysia, including Melaka,
by traders from South India in the early 15th century. Over time, diplo-
macy, often cemented by marriage, oriented Borneo’s coastal sultanates
towards Melaka and Islam.

The Cuisines 2.5 million 8000 1st century
of Borneo BC BC AD

Borneo is attached to Rising sea levels at the Chinese and
mainland Southeast end of the last ice age Indian traders detour
submerge much of the to Borneo. By AD 500,
Asia, a՗ording plants, Sundaland continental
insects, animals and Chinese are settling
plate, transform- in coastal present-day
eventually people easy ing Borneo into the
migration routes. world’s third-largest West Kalimantan.

island.

Eating in Borneo is never boring. Southeast Asia’s main trade, immigra-

tion and colonisation routes are right nearby, which is why the island’s In
B
cuisines include dishes from various provinces of southern China, the n
n
Malay parts of both mainland and island Southeast Asia, and even south- s
f
ern India – in addition to delicious indigenous (Dayak) dishes, based on t
Br
ingredients that grow wild in the rainforest.

Throughout Borneo, nasi (rice) and mee (noodles) are the staples, and

one or the other makes an appearance at almost every meal, including

reakfast. Rice is eaten steamed, as nasi goreng (fried with other

ients) and boiled as bubur (sweet or savoury porridge very po

reakfast), or glutinous varieties are steamed and moulded into tubes

or cubes and often wrapped with leaves. Noodles, in a variety of widths

nd thicknesses, can be made from wheat (with or without e , rice

bd d b il d i

ISBN 978-1-74220-296-9

52599

9 781742 202969

PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE
ROAD In-depth reviews, detailed listings
36 and insider tips

B(pru19n6e)i S(pa3b8a)h

Sa(pra12w1a) k

Kal(ipm2a15n)tan

PAGE SURVIVAL VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO
GUIDE HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP
299
311

Malaysia Airlines (www
.malaysiaairlines.com) BSB
to KL.

Singapore Airlines (www
.singaporeair.com) BSB to
Singapore.
Directory A–Z.................. 300 Kalimantan
Flying to and around Kali-
mantan is much safer than
a few years ago.
Transport......................... 311 AirAsia (www.airasia.com)
Balikpapan to KL.
Batavia Air (www.batavia-air
.com) Balikpapan to Jakarta,
Surabaya, Jogjakarta and
Health............................... 317 Transport Manado; Banjarmasin to
Language......................... 321 Jakarta and Surabaya;
Index................................. 330 GETTING THERE Tiger Airways (www.tig- Berau to Surabaya; Pon-
Map Legend..................... 335 & AWAY erairways.com) KK to Clark tianak to Jakarta, Jogjakarta,
(Philippines). Batam (near Singapore) and
Most travellers arrive in Singapore.
Borneo by air, most often Sarawak Garuda (www.garuda
from the gateway cities of AirAsia (www.airasia.com) -indonesia.com) Balikpapan
Singapore, Kuala Lumpur Kuching to Singapore, KL, to Jakarta, Surabaya, Jogja-
(KL) and Jakarta. Kalimantan Johor Bahru and Penang; karta and Makassar; Banjar-
has ferry links to Java and Miri to Singapore, KL and masin to Jakarta; Pontianak
Sulawesi, and there are also Johor Bahru; Sibu to KL and to Jakarta.
ferries between Sabah and Johor Bahru; Bintulu to KL. Kal Star (www.kalstaronline
the southern Philippines. Malaysia Airlines (www .com) Jakarta to various
.malaysiaairlines.com.my) Kalimantan cities, plus intra-
Many of the regional and Kuching to KL and SIngapore. Kalimantan connections.
low-fare airlines do not sell Silk Air (www.silkair.com) Lion Air (www2.lionair.co.id)
tickets through the major Kuching to Singapore. Balikpapan to Jakarta, Sura-
online fare aggregators. Tiger Airways (www.tig- baya, Jogjakarta and Makas-
erairways.com) Kuching to sar; Banjarmasin to Jakarta,
Flights and tours can be Singapore. Surabaya and Jogjakarta.
booked online at www.lonely- Silk Air (www.silkair.net)
planet.com. Balikpapan to Singapore.
Sriwijaya (www.sriwijayaair
.co.id) Balikpapan to Jakarta,
Surabaya, Jogjakarta and
Makassar; Banjarmasin
to Jakarta and Surabaya;
Pontianak to Jakarta.

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BYAir Brunei Sea
Sabah Sabah
Royal Brunei Airlines Ferries link Sandakan with
AirAsia (www.airasia.com) (www.bruneiair.com) Bandar Zamboanga, on the Philip-
Kota Kinabalu (KK) to Pe- Seri Begawan (BSB) to pine island of Mindanao,
ninsular Malaysia (KL, Johor London, Dubai, Hong Kong, twice a week; see p77 for
Bahru and Penang), Singa- Shanghai, Bangkok, Manila, details.
pore, Jakarta, Clark (Philip-Melbourne, Singapore, Sura-
pines), Taipei, Shenzhen and baya, Jakarta and KL. Offers Kalimantan
Hong Kong; Sandakan to reasonably priced long-haul Ferries run by Pelni (www
KL; Tawau to KL; and Pulau flights with a stopover in .pelni.co.id), Dharma Lautan
Labuan to KL. BSB. Flights are alcohol-free. (www.dluonline.co.id) and
Malaysia Airlines (www. AirAsia (www.airasia.com) Prima Vista connect Balik-
malaysiaairlines.com) KK to BSB to KL. papan, Samarinda, Banjar-
KL, Hong Kong, Tapei, Osaka Cebu Pacific Air (www. masin and Pontianak with
and Perth.
Daniel RobinsonSilk Air(www.silkair.com) KK cebupacificair.com) BSB to
to Singapore. Manila.

Adam Karlin, Paul Stiles

Welcome to

Borneo

Ancient Rainforests Deforestation makes for depressing head­
lines, but significant parts of the Bornean
If you love tropical greenhouses and can’t rainforest – among the most ancient eco­
wait to be enveloped by the humid fecund­ systems on earth – remain intact, protected
ity of a real equatorial rainforest, ­Borneo by conservation projects whose viability
will fulfil your wildest dreams. The i­sland’s depends, in part, on income from tourists.
jungles conjure up remoteness and peril,
bringing to mind impenetrable ­foliage and Jungle Wildlife
river trips into the ‘heart of darkness’. But
look a little closer – on a nature walk with For many visitors to Borneo, their most
a park ranger, for ins­tance – and nuan­ memorable moment is a personal encoun­
ces emerge: the pitcher plants, lianas and ter with a living creature: glimpsing a wild
­orchids of the lowland forest give way to orangutan swinging through the jungle
conifers, rhododendrons and different canopy, spotting an Irrawaddy dolphin in
kinds of orchids as you a­ scend the flanks the shimmering waters of the South China­
of Mt Kinabalu. The vegetation changes Sea, or locking eyes with the reptilian
just as radically as you sail upriver from gaze of a saltwater croc. Jungle animals
the mangroves along the South China Sea. are shy by nature, but a good guide can

AURORA PHOTOS/AWL © 3

It’s a jungle out there!
Borneo boasts some of the
world’s most species-rich
equatorial rainforests –
prime patches are easily
accessible from multiethnic
cities with great food.

(left) Hiking towards caves in Gunung Mulu National Park (p180)
(below) Orangutans at play, Sepilok (p77)

RICHARD I’ANSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

help you tell the difference between a vine cuisines and, thanks to age-old tradi­
and vine snake (not as easy as you might tions of hospitality, they’re all a cinch
think) and between a twig and a stick for visitors to approach. The cities of
i­nsect as long and thin as a pencil. They Sarawak and Sabah have significant Chi­
can also help you differentiate between the nese c­ ommunities and the picturesque
call of a gibbon and the cry of a hornbill, coastal kampung (villages) are populated
and identify a dominant male orangutan mainly­by Malays, but head inland and the
(hint: size counts but so do the cheeks). dominant culture is indigenous. Borneo’s
If you’re keen to have close encounters of D­ ayak groups stopped nabbing noggins
the animal kind, Borneo’s jungles offer a long ago, but many other ancient customs
unique combination of extraordinary bio­ and ceremonies live on, in harmony with a
diversity, unspoilt habitats and practical few mod cons, in longhouse communities.
accessibility. There’s no better way to experience a slice
of the Dayak way of life than to drop by
Cultural Riches for a visit – it’s easy to arrange this with
a local guide.
Borneo brings together an astonishing
­array of cultures, religions, languages and

› Borneo

11°E

e# 0 400 km TMrualyliuanutoBuacshined
0 200 miles rainforest (p101)

ELEVATION SOUTH
CHINA
2000m
1000m SEA
500m
200m
100m
0

5°N Gunung Mulu
Hiking,NcaavtieosnaanldPbaartks (p180)

Lambir Hills
Pulau ProBbaokscoisNmaotinokneayls,Ppairtckher National Park
Natuna plants and beaches (p142) #÷
Niah
National Park ÷#

Similajau ÷#
National Park
Bintulu \#
Anambas StylishK, usocphhinisgticated
Archipelago and multicultural (p124) #\ Mukah
#\ Dalat
Igan Belaga #\

Semi-wNiaSldteuomrreAaeTrnnRecgghmeugisbptoeeaehrllnaavsngeo(p149S) iPnegmkaawngGaSknuNaagntma\#Su]#tbiSneoargtnsSraGa\#easlamSiaPd\#etanaimBtnrRaekegNnenn\#a÷#skgBetaguaryovruaThee\#nN#÷e\#glARaB#\^#PutanaaS#÷ikKinorkse\#aknuoDmhaScaelehnKtrugiiaaPngbnuSogBo\#sahniatrgai\#kneLg\#iuAo#\bASnr\#urmtiuka#\N#]nSaSBitebDaion#\utaKK#÷ntanaaaanrapnluguouPmwaRaBrsietekHNjMtauSauKnntlAAaiugg#÷opRRLKnuaaAAeanlrsWgPYiehauSArkmKInA

Mempawah \# Tanjung
\# \#Sanggau
Equator (0°) Pontianak#] #\ Rambai \# Sintang Schwaner Range

DayakSloanrgahwoaukses and Bukit Baka-
traditional life (p121) Bukit Raya
Telukbatang National Park
#\ #÷ Kuala Kurun
Pulau Gunung Palung Tumbangjul
Maya #÷ National Park #\

Teluk #\ Tumbangsamba
Pulau Sukadana \#
Karimata
Na\#nga #\ Kudangan
Ketapang#\ Tayap Kasungan
Kuala Kuayan \#
\#

Petakbehandang\# #\

Karimata \# Kendawangan Pangkalan Sampit Palangka
Strait Bun #\ Raya
Tandjungpandan Pembuang
\# Sukamara #\ #\ Sebangau
S U M AT R A
#\ Manggar Teluk National #÷
INDONESIA Kumai Park
Pulau Teluk
Belitung \# Sampit
Kuala Pembuang
Tanjung Puting #÷
National Park

Tanjung Puting Java
AmazinNgajtuinognlaelcPruairske (p251) Sea

PALAWAN

PPAALLAAWWAANN Top Experiences ›

BMy tfaKriBnoarbnaelou's Balabac Strait Sepilok Orang-Utan
highest peak (p56) Pulau ORraenhgaubtialnitsautipocnloCseen(tpr7e7)

BalambanganPulau Banggi 12°E

11°30'E Kudat KD\#patgonMPguaPJllaauaumwlabauolingaCnIaSsgluaalnyuadnSSuelau SuRnivgearibKaninkasbteaetmaninggan
Tunku Abdul #\ with animals (p82)
Rahman
Kota
National Park #÷ Belud
\# Mt Kinabalu Turtle Islands
R(4095m) ÷# National Park

#]BSELTBaueG#\AbrtoiAiaNn#\WSgDBE\#AARRNRKIU#_oBT#\tCNrLNearuilEomaunKctLIbkiekia#\oaniewnnPra#\aagaSRbsTlpieaPpaaTnniaKrlot#\ourga#\u\#mkmena^#agl÷#a#\nCMRiKoTaaena#\SnlnmisAa\#RaaienupbrurM(geuu2\#vaBalna6toKuata4Tt÷#aisnro2liaunnmBbsaM)eDMCkluaaoaSArSnnnadeusnKAA#\iLpe#\m÷#rirBiAnelvVoaSAaaYakutbHliS]#lnoaentgyIa]#aAnTSi gea#\LalnDuanDdahkat\#aauLkdtSauaTenu\#hmnapgdkourna \# Jolo
Island
Parang
Tawitawi Siasi \#

Island

5°N

PHILIPPINES

Miri #÷ R Gunung NSaetSmioebnbaua÷#klkuPunagrkNTIusinlmaunukdran]#TSTaewebluauukko Pulau PrimDeavanlujmunVglael,lpeyygmy
Mulu (2337m) Pulau Sipadan elephants, orangutans (p88)
Bunyu
Baram Gunung Celebes
Mulu #\ Tarakan Sea

National Park

Kelabit
Highlands

÷# Kayan Mentarang Teluk CKoeollaabiri,tsHmiiglehsl,agnrdeast
National Park Sekatak

Range yan Tanjung trekking (p186)
Ka DerUanwsapnoiAlt rtcrohpipiceallago
Iran Berau #\ Batu Derawan
#] Tidung Archipelago islands (p239)

Semerut #\ Estuary

K A L I M A N TA N Sambaliung Mountains

INDONESIA \# Sangkulirang
#\ Muara Wahau

#÷ Kutai
National
Park

Longiram \# #\ Bontang Equator (0°)

Lake Lake
Semayang Melintang
\# Tenggarong
Lake ]#
Jempang Samarinda

\# Muara Teweh Makassar #] Palu
Strait

Barito Teluk SU L AW E S I
Adang INDONESIA
#\
Teluk
Tanahgrogot Apar

Amuntai \# Loksado MountaLinokrestardeaot (p263)
Kandangan #\ #\

Rantau #\

Pegunungan #\ Kotabaru \# Palopo
Meratus
Pulau
]# #\ PagatanSebuku

Martapura

#\ Pelaihari Pulau
#\ Batakam Laut

6

15

TOP

EXPERIENCES

Gunung Mulu Maliau Basin
National Park
2 You came to Borneo looking for
1 If the only marvel at Mulu (p180) were something wild, right? The Maliau Basin
the biggest cavern on earth, sprouting (p101) is as wild as it gets. The basin is a
a phantasmagorical forest of stalactites rock-rimmed depression filled with primary
and stalagmites, this park would be on rainforest – that’s untouched, uncut jungle,
any list of Borneo’s best. If the only fauna as old as the hills. We asked a local ranger
were the twirling, spiralling clouds of bats what he thought of the Maliau, and his
that emerge from the Deer Cave each day Malay response was ‘Adan da Hawa’ –
at dusk, it would deserve Unesco World Adam and Eve. That’s how fresh and
Heritage status. And if the only activity were perfect this forest feels, and while it may
spotting 20cm-long stick insects on a night look expensive to enter, with a bit of initia-
walk, the flight from Miri would be worth it. tive you too can experience the world as it
But add in towering Gunung Mulu and the once was. Flying gecko, Maliau Basin
Pinnacles and you have one of Southeast
Asia’s wonders. The Pinnacles, Gunung Mulu
National Park

7

DAVID POOLE/GETTY IMAGES © JASON ISLEY - SCUBAZOO/GETTY IMAGES ©

8 4
3 5

ANDREW WATSON/GETTY IMAGES © PETER PTSCHELINZEW /GETTY IMAGES ©

PITGREENWOOD/GETTY IMAGES ©

Sarawak’s Kuching Loksado
Dayak
Longhouses 4 Borneo’s most sophis- 5 If you’d like to escape a
ticated and stylish city bit from the jungle, if not
3 There’s no better way to (p124) brings together an the world, this small hamlet
get a sense of indigenous atmospheric old town, a will do the trick. Nestled
tribal culture than to visit a romantic waterfront, fine by a rushing stream in the
longhouse (p146) – or, better cuisine for all budgets, and foothills of the Meratus,
yet, stay over. Essentially a chic nightspots that would scenic Loksado (p263) feels
whole village under a single be right at home in London. more like a mountain retreat
roof, these dwellings can But the city’s biggest draw than part of Borneo. There’s
be longer than two football is what’s nearby: some of a vibrant market, diverse
pitches and contain dozens Sarawak’s finest natural ­trekking opportunities,
of family units, each of sites, easy to visit on day bamboo rafting, and lots of
which opens onto a covered trips. You can spot semi-wild friendly locals. Accommoda-
common verandah used orangutans or search out a tion options are sparse but
for ­economic activities, giant Rafflesia flower in the include a great riverside
socialising and celebrations. morning, look for proboscis budget hotel with everything
Although these days all long- monkeys and wild crocs you need for an extended
houses enjoy some modern on a sundown cruise in the stay. Backpackers take note:
amenities, many still have at South China Sea, and then if you need to re-energise,
least a few headhunted skulls dine on super-fresh seafood this is the place. Bamboo
on display. or crunchy midin fern tips. rafting
Kuching’s waterfront at dusk

9

Mt Kinabalu Cross-Borneo Trek

6 Mt Kinabalu (p56) is so many things 7 Welcome to the triathlon of adventure
we don’t know where to start. Highest travel! Starting on Borneo’s east coast,
mountain in Borneo and Malaysia? Check. you’ll travel hundreds of kilometres upriver,
Climbable even by novices but great fun for deep into the heart of one of the world’s most
veteran trekkers? Check. Abode of the spirits fabled jungles, trek through back-of-beyond
of local indigenous tribes? Check. Home to hills like the explorers of old, and then head
several unique-in-Borneo ecosystems and down to the west coast on a thrilling white-
some 6000 plant species, many of them water canoe ride. Along the way you’ll sample
e­ ndemic? Check. Even on an island bursting everything Kalimantan has to offer: wildlife,
with astonishing natural beauty, the sight Dayak culture and pure adrenalin. If you can’t
of Mt Kinabalu’s peak early in the morning do it all, the first stage of the Cross-Borneo
causes most folks to lose their breath. Trek (p219) is great by itself.

6

NORA CAROL PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES ©

7

PETER PTSCHELINZEW/GETTY IMAGES ©

10
8

RICHARD I’ANSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

Semenggoh Danum Valley Kinabatangan
Nature Reserve River Safaris
9 If Danum Valley’s prim­
8 Watching Homo sapiens eval jungle (p88) makes 10 Indiana Jones would
encounter orangutans you think of dinosaurs, we’ll love the Sungai
for the first time is almost understand – the area really Kinabatangan (Kinabatangan
as entertaining as watching does look like Jurassic Park. River). Like a muddy brown
our shaggy jungle cousins Confirmed sightings of a python, Sabah’s longest
stuff half a dozen bananas T. rex eating a lawyer? Not river wends its way through
into their mouths, grab a that we know of, but visitors the epic jungles south of
coconut and scramble back often spot pygmy elephants, Sandakan, bracketed by
up into the jungle canopy. wild orangutans and clouds riverine forest teeming with
Both p­ rimate encounters of bird life. Some, though, civet cats, orangutans, pro-
are a twice-daily feature at don’t actually see any ani- boscis monkeys, saltwater
Semenggoh Nature Reserve mals at all as the jungle is so crocodiles, monitor lizards,
(p149) near Kuching, one thick it can cloak fauna mere hornbills, kingfishers and
of the best places in the metres from where you’re hawks. Book yourself into
world to see semi-wild standing. But that’s part of one of several jungle camps
orangutans swing from tree Danum’s enchanting and in the villages of Sukau and
to tree, ­dangle nonchalantly timeless appeal. Fiddle beetle, Bilit, or stay with locals in a
from vines and take care Danum Valley homestay, and set out on
of their adorable and very a river cruise (p83) for an
curious infants. Orangutan at excellent shot at spotting
­Semenggoh Wildlife Centre some of Borneo’s most
iconic animals.

11 ANDERS BLOMQVIST /GETTY IMAGES ©
9
10
THOMAS MARENT/MINDEN PICTURES/CORBIS ©

12 Derawan Archipelago

Sepilok Orang-Utan 12 These diverse islands (p239) offer
Rehabilitation Centre something wonderful for everyone.
The sandy streets and waterfront losmen
11 Most people find orangutans to be (budget guesthouses) of Pulau Derawan are
meltingly cute ambassadors of the a first-rate backpacker destination, while the
great ape family. If you fit into this demo- postcard-pretty twin resort isles of Nabucco
graphic, you’ll love the Sepilok sanctuary and Nunukan offer some truly extraordinary
(p77), one of the better dedicated research diving, along with high-end bungalow accom-
and rehabilitation facilities in Borneo. You’re modation. And for those intent on finding an
likely not going to see orangutans gambolling authentic tropical paradise, massive Maratua
as they would in the wild, but it’s still magical atoll and the virtually untouristed islands
to watch these ginger giants during feeding beyond offer a shot at bliss that is increas-
times, when they bend their way over ropes ingly hard to find. Homestay visits here
and branches and turn their meal of bananas have been known to stretch on for weeks.
into so many scattered peels.

11

RENATO GRANIERI/ALAMY ©

12

BARRY KUSUMA/GETTY IMAGES ©

IAN WOOD/ALAMY © 13ANUP SHAH/GETTY IMAGES ©
13 14

15

KARL LEHMANN/GETTY IMAGES ©

Tanjung Puting Bako National Kelabit
National Park Park Highlands

13 Arguably one of the 14 Wild jungle animals – 15 The air is clean and
best places in the think proboscis cool, the rice fields
world to experience close-up monkeys, bearded pigs and impossibly green, the local
encounters with semi- entire families of long-tailed cuisine scrumptious, and
wild orangutans, Tanjung macaques – are easier to the trekking – from long-
Puting (p251) offers an spot on the rocky Bako house to longhouse – some
unf­orgettable upriver journey Peninsula than almost of the best in Borneo, but the
on a chugging klotok (a boat anywhere else in Borneo, star attraction in the Kelabit­
that’s both your home and although the park (p142) Highlands (p186) is the
your lookout tower): the is just a short trip (by road people, justifiably famous for
Milky Way glittering above and then motorboat) from their ready smiles and easy
you as you sleep alfresco the bustle of Kuching. Over way with visitors. Getting to
on the top deck, the call of a dozen hiking trails take Sarawak’s remote north­
gibbons waking you in the you to sandstone plateaus, eastern corner is half the
morning, and the emotional waterfalls, secret bays and fun – you can either bust
and fascinating experience secluded beaches, passing your butt on logging roads
of seeing Borneo’s critically through endangered lowland for 12 hours or take an
endangered orangutans so ecosystems – mangroves, ­exhilarating flight in a 19-seat
intimately you’re often heath forest, dipterocarp Twin O­ tter turboprop. P­ ortrait
almost rubbing shoulders forest – that provide the ideal of a Kelabit man
with them. Klotok in Tanjung conditions for pitcher plants
Puting National Park and terrestrial orchids.

14 Currency Language
»»Malaysian ringgit »»Bahasa Malaysia,
Need to (RM), Brunei dollar Bahasa Indonesia,
Know (B$), Indonesian Chinese dialects, Dayak
rupiah (Rp) languages such as
Kadazan–Dusun, Iban,
Bidayuh and Kelabit

When to Go Your Daily
Budget
Tropical climate, rain year-round Kota Kinabalu
Bandar Seri Begawan # GO year-round Budget less than
GO year-round #
US$30
Kuching
# GO year-round »»Dorm bed: US$4–7
Pontianak »»Meals at food stalls,
# GO year-round self-catering at fruit
and vegie markets
# Balikpapan »»National park
GO year-round admission: US$3
»»Almost all museums
Banjarmasin are free
# GO year-round
Midrange
Year-round ‘Wet’ Season High Season
»»No especially (Oct-Feb) (Jul-Sep) US
good or bad season »»Indistinct wet »»Accommodation $30–80
to visit. season October to and trekking guides
February; can affect may be booked out »»Air-con double with
»»Lowland areas hot boat links to islands in some areas in July, bathroom: from
and humid. and diving visibility. August and perhaps US$20
September. »»Meals at all but the
»»Rain a possibility »»Rains can render priciest restaurants
every day, all year Kalimantan’s dirt »»Taxis, chartered
(but without rain, as roads impassable motorboats or tours to
they say, it wouldn’t (October to April). nature sites
be a rainforest).
Top end over

US$80

»»Luxury double room:
US$100
»»Seafood dinner:
US$8–20 per kilo

15

Money Visas Mobile Phones Transport PLAN YOUR TRIP NEED TO KNOW
»»ATMs widely »»Generally not »»Cheap international »»Aeroplanes, express
available in cities required for Malaysia direct-dial calls ferries and motorised
and larger towns. and Brunei. Needed can be made with a longboats go where
Credit cards usually for Indonesia except if local SIM card in a roads don’t. Frequent
accepted at top-end entering Kalimantan at 900/1800MHz phone. buses link major cities
establishments. Balikpapan, Pontianak Settled areas have in Sarawak, Brunei and
or Tebedu–Entikong. good coverage. Sabah.

Websites Exchange Rates Arriving in
Borneo
»»Brunei Tourism Australia A$1 RM B$ Rp
(www.bruneitourism. 3.21 1.28 10,036 »»Malaysia
travel) Oodles of info. Canada C$1 3.07 1.22 9587 Major airports, such as
»»Google Earth (www 4.15 1.65 12,896 Kuching, Kota Kinabalu
.google.com/earth) Euro zone €1 3.31 1.32 10,346 and Miri, have ATMs,
Vivid satellite imagery. 2.63 1.05 8207 car rental desks, kiosks
»»Lonely Planet (www Japan ¥100 2.51 1.00 7845 selling SIM cards, and
.lonelyplanet.com) 4.79 1.90 14,964 orderly taxi queues with
Information, bookings, New Zealand NZ$1 3.10 1.24 9700 fixed prices and vouch-
forums and more. ers for trips into town.
»»Sabah Parks (www Singapore S$1
.sabahparks.org) »»Brunei
Sabah’s national parks. UK UK£1 Brunei International
Airport has ATMs, car
»»Sabah Tourism USA US$1 rental and good bus
(www.sabahtourism connections with the
.com) Official site. For current exchange rates see www.xe.com. centre of Bandar Seri
Begawan. City tours
»»Sarawak Forestry Important Numbers available for transit
(www.sarawakforestry passengers. Singapore
.com) Sarawak’s Country codes for Borneo: dollars are ­universally
national parks. accepted, with a
Brunei %673 conversion rate of
»»Sarawak Tourism Indonesia %62 one to one.
(www.sarawaktourism Malaysia %60
.com) Official site. »»Kalimantan
»»Mongabay (www Emergency police numbers: Taxis and other
.mongabay.com) conveyances meet all
Rainforest conser­ Brunei %993 incoming flights.
vation news. Indonesia %110
Malaysia %999

Well Dressed in Borneo

Despite the heat and humidity, adult men in Malaysian Borneo don’t wear short
pants in cities or towns, particularly not in smart restaurants or hotels. In Kalimantan,
however, shorts are very popular among men, especially younger ones.

Likewise, women should remember that much of Borneo is largely Muslim and
relatively­discreet clothing is recommended. You certainly don’t have to cover your hair
(except inside mosques), but walking around with a tank top or bikini top is unwise.

Cotton clothing never really dries in the jungle, so bring at least a few fast-drying
synthetic items.

16

If You
Like…

Orangutans Jungle Indigenous
Trekking Culture
You scan the canopy and
wait, straining to hear the There’s nothing quite like Borneo’s Dayak groups –
rustle of branches above the being a day or two’s walk (in)famous for having once
drone of cicadas. Suddenly, from the nearest road, practised headhunting –
a fluttering of leaves and – entirely surrounded by old- have lived in harmony with
a flash of orange-brown growth rainforest as you the rainforest for thousands
fur! It’s a female orangutan, tramp from one longhouse of years, in remote com­
her baby hanging onto her to the next. It’s a challeng­ ing munities based on mutual
long chest hair as the two slog – the heat, the h­ umidity reliance and responsibility.
of them swing through and the leeches take their Even a short longhouse visit
their native habitat, high toll, and the trail itself offers insights into their
in the rainforest canopy. sometimes disappears into age-old traditions – and the
Later, dangling in space, the a bog or, on muddy ­inclines, ways they’re adapting to
mother crams bright-yellow becomes as ­slippery as ice – modern life. Come during
bananas into her mouth but to be surrounded with a festival and you may be
and casually hands fruit to such fecundity and botani­ asked to join in the merri­
her hungry infant. cal richness…the feeling is ment, liberally lubricated
Semenggoh Wildlife Centre indescribable! with tuak (rice wine).
One of the easiest places to see Kinabalu National Park Much Kelabit Highlands One of the
semi-wild orangutans (p149) more than just the famous best places in Borneo to trek
Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabi­ ­summit climb (p56) from longhouse to longhouse
litation Centre Rescued (p186)
o­ rang­utans, living free in the Gunung Mulu National Park Batang Ai Region Old-time Iban
forest, drop by for fruit (p77) Options include the Head­ longhouses, many accessible
Sungai Kinabatangan Home hunters’ Trail (p180) only by boat (p158)
to lots of truly wild orangutans Upper Sungai Mahakam Dayak
(p82) Maliau Basin Conservation culture in the heart of Borneo
Camp Leakey, Tanjung Puting Area Remote hikes through (p228)
National Park Great for sighting old-growth forest (p101) Upper Sungai Kapuas Linked
semi-wild orangutans at feeding Bario to Ba Kelalan A classic by boat with Putussibau (p249)
times (p251) trek through the Kelabit High- Pegunungan Meratus Animist
lands (p191) beliefs are strong and shamans
have plenty of work in these
Pegunungan Meratus (Mera- remote hills (p263)
tus Mountains) Trails from Western Sarawak Bidayuh
Loksado criss-cross forested longhouses and the Sarawak
valleys (p263) Cultural Village (p142)
Muller Mountains Borneo’s
remotest mountain range (p219)

17

PLAN YOUR TRIP IF YOU LIKE

ANDERS BLOMQVIST/GETTY IMAGES ©
»»Food stall at night market (p162), Sibu

Jungle Multicultural Exploring Caves
River Trips Cities
Borneo has an incredible
From time immemorial, Nowhere is Borneo’s ex­ variety of underground
rivers were the only trans­ traordinary ethnic gumbo wonders. While some of
port arteries into Borneo’s more colourful – and deli­ the most breathtaking
interior, and in some cious – than in the cities. caves must be visited with
areas – especially in The minarets of Malay a professional guide, ­others
K­ alimantan – ferries, mosques tower over the are easily accessible on
l­ongboats and canoes are streetscape a few blocks plankwalks. Daily at dusk,
still the only way to get from bright-red Chinese millions of bats head out
around. Make a virtue of temples, and both are just of Borneo’s caves to hunt
necessity by treating your a short walk from colonial- i­nsects – an awesome sight.
floating transport as part era shophouses and hawker
of the roaring a­ dventure. centres with a tongue- Gunung Mulu National Park
boggling array of bubbling Some of the world’s most
Tanjung Puting National Park soups, barbecuing satay and spectacular caves, dripping with
The shores of Sungai Sekonyer fresh-squeezed juices. Many fantastic stalactites, are home
teem with macaques, orang­ cities take special pride in to millions of bats and swiftlets
utans and crocs up towards their parks, promenades (p180)
Camp Leakey (p251) and festivals. Gomantong Caves The
Sungai Mahakam The further Kuching Fantastic for strolling cathedral-like grand chamber is
upriver you go, the wilder the and aimless exploration, with speckled with rays of sunlight
wildlife (p235) 19th-century forts, two China- (p82)
Sungai Bungan Borneo’s most towns and excellent cuisine for Niah National Park Niah’s
thrilling canoe trip (p250) every budget (p124) enormous caverns, once home
Sungai Kinabatangan Spot an Bandar Seri Begawan Blessed to prehistoric humans, are easy
ark’s worth of animals, including with picturesque water villages, to explore on boardwalks (p171)
pygmy elephants (p83) two stunning mosques and Wind Cave & Fairy Cave Stairs
Batang Rejang Take a ‘flying some outstanding food stalls, and paths make it possible to
coffin’ river express to Belaga BSB is as polite and unassuming visit unaccompanied (p153,
(p163) as its people (p198) p154)
Sibu The mostly Chinese ‘Swan Kuching Caving This small
Bandar Seri Begawan to City’ boasts a busy ferry port, spelunking outfit mounts
Bangar Slap through palm-lined 22 community parks and a great adventurous day expeditions to
waterways and weave among night market (p159) Kuching-area caves (p154)
mangroves (p210) Singkawang Kalimantan’s most
Chinese city sometimes feels
like Shanghai circa 1930 (p246)

18 Top Events

Month Gawai Dayak June
by Harvest Festival May
Month Chinese New Year February
Hari Raya Puasa July/August
Rainforest World Music
Festival July

Muslim and Chinese April makes the Borneo Jazz
festivals follow lunar or Festival (www.jazzborneo
lunisolar calendars and so The weather is hot and .com), held on a weekend in
vary relative to the Western humid, with rain always mid-May, Borneo’s premier
calendar. Approximate dates likely, even in Sandakan jazz event. Formerly known
for 2013 to 2016 appear (Sabah), where months as the Miri International
below; celebrations often don’t get any drier. Jazz Festival.
begin the night before these
dates. 2 Regatta Lepa z Harvest
Bajau Sea Gypsies Festival
February deck out their lepa (boats) Rice is the basis of Sabah’s
with streamers, bunting, indigenous way of life. To
The weather is hot and flags, ceremonial umbrellas mark the annual harvest,
humid, with rain always and gorgeously decorated native peoples gather in
likely. February is one of sails. The mid-April week­ their home villages on 30
the wettest months of the end festivities are further and 31 May for a colour­
year in Kuching (Sarawak) animated with violin, ful thanksgiving festival
and Banjarmasin (South c­ ymbal and drum music, that’s also known as Pesta
Kalimantan). The seas duck-catching competitions Ka’amatan.
off Sarawak and around and tug-of-war contests
Kalimantan’s Derawan with boats; see p94 for June
Archipelago can be rough. more.
The weather is hot
z Chinese New May and humid, with rain
Year always likely. June is the
Borneo’s Chinese commu­ The weather is hot and wettest month of the
nities, especially large in humid, with rain always year in Balikpapan (West
Sarawak’s Kuching, Sibu likely. May is not the Kalimantan). Tourist
and Singkawang, welcome wettest month anywhere numbers rise because of
the New Year with bright- on the island, but neither the northern hemisphere
red lanterns, sweets, lion is it the driest, so be summer.
and dragon dances, drum prepared to be rained on.
performances, night mar­ z Gawai Dayak
kets and, often, a raucous z Borneo Jazz An official holiday
(and illegal) display of fire­ Festival in Sarawak (it’s also marked
crackers and fireworks. An eclectic assemblage of by the Iban in Brunei),
Falls on 31 January 2014, artists from Europe, North this Dayak festival (p280)
19 February 2015 and 8 America and Southeast Asia celebrates the end of the
February 2016. rice harvest season. City-

19

dwelling Dayaks return to together Dayak bands and bus tickets. Begins 8 August PLAN YOUR TRIP MONTH BY MONTH
their longhouses to social­ international artists. Area 2013, 28 July 2014 and
ise, make music, eat and accommodation fills up long 17 July 2015.
get happy with tuak (rice in advance.
wine). Held statewide from September
the evening of 31 May to z Sultan of
2 June, in some villages Brunei’s The weather is hot
on other dates in June. Birthday and humid. September
Colourful official cere­ isn’t the driest month
July monies are held on 15 July anywhere on the island,
to mark the birthday of so be prepared for rain.
The weather is hot and Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah.
humid, with rain likely In Bandar Seri Begawan, 2 Belaga
even in Kuching, where events include an elaborate Rainforest
this is the driest month. military ceremony presided Challenge
Northern hemisphere over by the supremo him­ Orang Ulu longhouses along
tourists flock to Borneo self, smartly dressed in a the Batang Rejang joyously
so consider booking treks, medal-bedecked uniform. share their music, dance,
caving, guides and tours traditional costumes and
in advance. August cuisines with each other
and with visitors. Competi­
z Ramadan The weather is hot and tions include boat races and
During the month humid, with rain likely a 12km jungle run. Held
of Ramadan, Muslims are everywhere even though in even-numbered years, it
not allowed to eat, drink or August is the driest lasts for three days.
have sexual relations from month in Banjarmasin
dawn to sunset. Celebratory (South Kalimantan). z Borneo
break-the-fast meals are Northern hemisphere International
held after sundown. Many tourists are numerous so Kite Festival
offices have shorter hours consider booking treks, Held on the runway of
and some restaurants close caving, guides and tours the old airport in B­ intulu
during daylight. Begins on in advance. (Sarawak), this festival
9 July 2013, 28 June 2014 (www.borneokite.com)
and 18 June 2015. z Hungry Ghost brings colourful, strange
Festival and marvellous kites to
z Borneo Cultural On the 15th (full moon) day Borneo’s natural-gas capital.
Festival of the seventh Chinese ­lunar Takes place over four or five
Brings to Sibu (Sarawak) month, when spirits are free days in late September or
music, dance, cultural to roam the earth, offerings early October.
performances and food of food, prayer, incense and
­representing central (fake) paper money are z Erau Festival
Sarawak’s Chinese, Malay- made to appease the spirits Held in late Sep­
Melanau and Dayak tradi­ of the deceased. Falls on tember, the Erau Festival
tions. Held over 10 days in 21 August 2013, 10 August sees thousands of Dayaks
early July. 2014 and 28 August 2015. from all over Kalimantan
converging on Tenggarong,
z Rainforest z Hari Raya on the mighty Sungai
World Music Puasa ­Mahakam (Mahakam
Festival This festive three-day River), in a whirl of tribal
This three-day musical Muslim holiday marks the costumes, ceremony and
­extravaganza (www.rwmf. end of the fasting month dance.
net), held in the Sarawak of Ramadan. Many people
Cultural Village near travel to their hometowns,
­Kuching on the second creating traffic jams and
weekend in July, brings a shortage of air, boat and

20

Adventure Borneo

Best Wildlife Borneo is one of Southeast Asia’s premier
Spotting outdoor adventure destinations, with a spec­
tacular mix of jungle, rock, water and thrills
Tanjung Puting National Park (p251) that will wow both nature lovers and adren­
Mancong, Sungai Mahakam (p233) alin junkies. If you like to experience a place
Bako National Park (p142) by trekking it, climbing it, crawling through
Wildlife River Boat Cruises, Sungai it or floating on it, you’ll love Borneo.
K­ inabatangan (p83)
Kuching Wetlands National Park (p148) Jungle Trekking
Gunung Mulu National Park (p180)
When to Go
Best Mountain
Climbing Borneo has some of the best jungle trekking
anywhere in the world. While the island’s
Mt Kinabalu, Sabah (p56) forests are disappearing at an alarming rate,
Gunung Mulu, Sarawak (p180) vast swaths of old-growth (primary) tropical
Mt Besar, Kalimantan (p263) rainforest still cover the middle of the island
and much of Brunei, and pristine patches
Best Jungle remain in parts of Sabah and Sarawak. If
Day Hikes you’ve never walked through genuine tropi­
cal jungle, the experience – even if you don’t
Rafflesia Loop Trail, Gunung Gading see many mammals, which tend to be noc­
National Park (p156) turnal, very shy or both – is likely to be a
Wehea Forest, Kalimantan (p237) revelation: you simply won’t believe the
Danum Valley Conservation Area (p84) teeming fecundity.
Gunung Mulu National Park (p180)
Bako National Park (p142) Borneo has wet months and less-wet
months – the timing depends on where you
Best Rainforest are – but precipitation varies so widely from
Canopy Walks year to year that a month that’s usually dry
can be very rainy and vice versa. In short, no
Gunung Mulu National Park (p180) matter when you go you are likely to get wet.
Ulu Temburong National Park (p212)
Poring Hot Springs (p65) What is seasonal, however, is the number
Danum Valley, Sabah (p88) of other travellers you’ll be competing with
Sepilok Rainforest Discovery for experienced guides and lodgings. For
Centre (p79) obvious reasons, northern hemisphere
residents often come to Borneo (especially
Sabah and Sarawak) during summer holi­
days in their home countries, so if you’d like

21

TRAVEL LITERATURE: STORIES OF ADVENTURE PL AN YOUR TRIP A dventure B orneo

Borneo has fired the world’s imagination for centuries. Perhaps the best recent title
is Stranger in the Forest (1988) by Eric Hansen, in which the author recounts his
journey across the island in the company of Penan guides. It is not just the difficulty
of the feat but the author’s brilliant and sensitive storytelling that make the book a
classic. One cannot read it without a sense of sadness, for the world and the people
described are now almost completely gone.

The most popular book about Borneo is Redmond O’Hanlon’s Into the Heart
of B­ orneo (1984), a humorous account of the author’s 1983 journey up a river in
Sarawak. While O’Hanlon makes a bit much of what was a fairly unremarkable journey,
one cannot help but enjoy his colourful narrative.

Espresso with Headhunters: A Journey Through the Jungles of Borneo (2001) by
John Wassner tells of a more extensive trip by an Australian traveller (and inveterate
caffeine and nicotine addict). Not nearly as famous as O’Hanlon’s book, this gives a
more realistic account of what life is like in Sarawak. We only wish he had chosen a
­different title – it’s time to let the whole Borneo-headhunter thing die a quiet death.

If you climb Mt Kinabalu, you’ll notice the gaping chasm of Low’s Gully to your right
as you ascend the final summit pyramid. Kinabalu Escape: The Soldiers’ Story (1997)
by Rich Mayfield tells of the British Army’s ill-fated 1994 attempt to descend the gully.
The expedition, a textbook case in how not to run an expedition, led to an expensive
rescue operation and the near deaths of several team members.

to trek – particularly in popular national alent to two in Europe or North America.
parks such as Gunung Mulu, Kinabalu and Thanks to the combination of high tem­
Tanjung Puting – in July, August or Septem­ peratures and high humidity, you will sweat
ber, it’s a good idea to book a guide or tour enough to discover what eyebrows are for, so
in advance. be sure to drink plenty of water. In kerangas
(heath forests) and on high mountains, pre­
Guides pare for intense sun by wearing a hat and
sunscreen. Make sure your guide is aware of
Many national parks have well-marked day the pace you can handle.
trails that can be tramped unaccompanied.
But for almost all overnight trails, only a fool Borneo is hardly the Himalayas, but even
would set out without a local guide. Remem­ in places like the Kelabit Highlands (1500m)
ber, trail maps of any sort are completely you may feel the altitude, at least for a few
unavailable and signage along remote trails days.
nonexistent.
Pre-Trip Preparation
Especially in Sabah, Brunei and Sarawak,
national parks are very strict about allow­ To the uninitiated, jungle trekking can be
ing only licensed guides to show visitors something of a shock – like marching all day
around. We’ve heard stories of groups in a sauna with a floor as slippery as ice. To
b­ eing turned back when they arrived with make the experience as safe and painless as
an ­uncertified leader. Before you fork over possible, it’s necessary to prepare ahead:
any cash, c­ ompare notes with other travel­ »»On overnight trips, bring two sets of clothing:
lers and ask to see the guide’s national park one for hiking and one to wear at the end of the
certification. day (keep your night kit dry in a plastic bag).
Within minutes of starting, your hiking kit will be
Guides for day walks can sometimes be drenched and will stay that way throughout your
hired at national park headquarters, but for trip. Never blur the distinction between your day
overnight trekking you’ll generally need to and night kits, or you’ll find that you have two sets
contact either a freelance guide or a tour of wet clothes.
agency before you arrive. »»If you’ll be hiking through dense vegetation,
wear long trousers and a long-sleeved shirt.
Physical Demands Otherwise, shorts and a T-shirt will suffice.
Whatever you wear, make sure it’s loose fitting.
Hiking in the tropics is much more strenu­
ous than in temperate zones. One kilom­ etre
of slogging through Borneo is roughly equiv­

PL AN YOUR TRIP A dventure B orneo22

LEECHES SUCK (BLOOD)

There’s just no getting around it: if you want to experience Borneo’s magnificent tropi-
cal rainforests, at some point you’re going to find yourself getting up close and intimate
with a leech (www.invertebrate.us/leech) – or, more likely, with lots of them. If you can’t
stand the sight of blood, wear dark-coloured socks.
Common Leech Varieties
There are two main varieties of leech in Borneo: the ground-dwelling brown leech and
the striped yellow-reddish tiger leech, which often lives higher up on foliage. Leeches,
which are attracted by the vibrations and carbon dioxide you produce, are probably the
jungle’s quietest creatures. Since you can’t feel the bite of the brown leech, you’ll only
realise what’s going on when you actually spot him-and-her (leeches are hermaphro-
dites), or when you notice blood seeping through your clothing. But you can feel the bite
of a tiger leech – it’s similar to an ant sting – which means that if you’re quick, you can
take action before making an involuntary blood donation.

While leeches are horrible creatures, they are almost completely harmless. In Borneo they
don’t generally carry parasites, bacteria or viruses that can infect humans. However, a bite
may itch and bleed profusely for a few hours due to the anticoagulant juices (hirudin) the
leech injects. The spot may itch for another week, and then it will scab over and resolve into
a small dark spot that completely disappears after several weeks. The only danger is that
the bite may get infected, which is why it’s important to disinfect the bite and keep it dry.
Self-Defence Against Leeches
Like hangover cures, everyone has a favourite method of protecting themselves from
leeches. Problem is, most don’t work. Putting tobacco in your socks or on your shoes
is an old standby. We tried this one and it only seemed to encourage the little bastards.

»»Bring fast-drying synthetic clothes. Once cotton »»Bring talcum powder to cope with the chafing
gets wet, it won’t dry until you bring it back to town. caused by wet undergarments. Wearing loose
»»Evenings can be cool in the mountains, so if underwear will also help prevent chafing.
you’ll be spending time in higher altitudes, bring a »»If you wear glasses, you might want to treat
fleece top to keep warm. them with an antifog solution (ask your optician).
»»If you’re going to be trekking on well-used trails Otherwise, you may find yourself in a foggy white-
(eg in the Kelabit Highlands) and don’t need a lot out within minutes of setting out.
of ankle support, consider hiking in running shoes »»Your sweat will soak through the back of your
with good traction. For serious trekking, though, backpack. Consider putting something waterproof
it’s crucial to have serious hiking boots with over the back padding to keep the sweat out;
cleats, properly broken in, for the muddy slopes. otherwise, consider a waterproof stuff sack.
»»To keep the leeches at bay, buy spandex »»Keep your camera gear, including extra
pants or a pair of light-coloured leech socks. batteries, in an airtight plastic container, with
It’s not always possible to find these in Borneo a pouch of silica gel or other desiccant.
(guesthouses in Miri may carry them), so buy
them online before coming. Guides & Agencies
»»Drink plenty of water. If you’re going long
distances, you’ll have to bring either a water filter Tour agencies and guides can help you head
or a water-purification agent such as iodine (most for the hills.
people opt for the latter to keep weight down).
»»Get in shape long before coming to Borneo Sabah
and start slowly. Try day hikes before longer treks.
»»Always go with a guide unless you’re on a well- »»Adventure Alternative Borneo (p45)
marked, commonly travelled trail. Navigating in »»Borneo Adventure (p45)
the jungle is extremely difficult because most of »»Borneo Eco Tours (p46)
the time – even when you’re on top of a hill – all »»Borneo Nature Tours (p46)
you can see is trees. »»Fieldskills Adventures (p45)

23

Many Kelabit people swear that spraying your shoes with a powerful insecticide works PL AN YOUR TRIP A dventure B orneo
(that’s insecticide, not insect repellent); we didn’t try this one for fear of unwelcome side
effects, nor did we use Dettol disinfectant, which can be toxic. Yet other people wear
panty­hose or spandex cycling pants, slather on the baby oil (said to cause leeches to
slide off your skin) or use tropical-strength mosquito repellent – though since this last
item is water-soluble, it’s likely to wash off if you ford a river or sweat.

There is only one really effective method of keeping leeches at bay: wearing an impenetra-
ble fabric barrier. Knee-length leech socks, made from tightly knit calico, work, as does Span-
dex. The best leech socks are light coloured so you can see the leeches ascending your legs
and pick them off. You can find these online; guesthouses in Miri may also sell them.

If you do discover a leech making a pass at you, don’t panic. Yanking off a leech can
leave part of its jaws in the wound, and burning it or dousing it with vinegar, lemon juice or
alcohol can cause it to regurgitate its stomach contents, increasing the likelihood of infec-
tion. Instead, slide your fingernail along your skin at the point where the leech is attached
to break the suction. The leech will try to grab your finger with its other end so roll it around
to prevent it from getting a grip and flick it away. If there are other people around, it’s good
form to chop the leech in half with your parang (Bornean machete). Don’t squirt DEET
directly on sucking leeches as the chemical may get in your wound.

One more thing to remember: salt is to leeches as kryptonite is to Superman. Some
people put a teaspoon of salt inside some thin cloth and tie it to the top of a stick – touch a
leech with something salty and it will recoil like the Wicked Witch of the West.

If you find a few leech bites on your feet, console yourself with the thought that you have
had the privilege and the honour of making a very real contribution to sustaining Borneo’s

endangered ecosystem.

»»Sticky Rice (p45) Mountain Climbing
»»Tampat Do Aman (p69)
Towering above the forests of Borneo are
Sarawak some brilliant mountains. Even non­climbers
know about 4095m Mt Kinabalu, the highest
Guides can also be found at Gunung Mulu peak between the Himalayas and the island
National Park (p180) and in the Kelabit of New Guinea. This craggy monster simply
Highlands (p186) begs to be climbed, and there is something
»»Borneo à la Carte (p132) magical about starting the ascent in humid
»»Borneo Adventure (p132) tropical jungle and emerging into a bare,
»»Borneo Experiences (p132) rocky alpine zone so cold that snow has
»»Borneo Jungle Safari (p175) been known to fall. But beyond the transi­
»»Borneo Touch Ecotour (p193) tion from hot to cold, it’s the weird world of
the summit plateau that makes Mt Kinabalu
Brunei among the world’s most interesting peaks.
It’s got a dash of Yosemite and a pinch of
»»Borneo Guide (p202) Torres del Paine, but at the end of the day,
»»Mona Florafauna Tours (p203) it’s pure Borneo.

Kalimantan Gunung Mulu (2377m) isn’t quite as high
but it’s almost as famous, thanks in part to
For day trekking, many of the agencies being a Unesco World Heritage site. If you’re
speciali­sing in river trips (p25) also o­ ffer a glutton for punishment, you’ll probably
hikes. Trekking in remote areas can be find the five-day return trek to the summit
­dangerous, so for a multiday expedition we of this peak to your liking. Those who make
recommend two outfits: the journey experience a variety of pristine
»»De’Gigant Tours (p225) natural environments, starting with lowland
»»Kompakh (p249) dipterocarp forest and ending with rhodo­
dendron and montane forest.

24

AL’S JUNGLE KIT LIST AL DAVIES

PL AN YOUR TRIP A dventure B orneo General Kit ††sandals ††mosquito net
††backpack ††socks ††bungee cords
††pack liner (waterproof) ††underwear ††sleeping mat
††waterproof bags ††lycra bras ††sleeping bag
††day pack ††long trousers (2) ††sleeping-bag liner
††water bottles ††shorts
††personal medical kit ††leech socks Cooking & Eating
††water purifier ††long-sleeve shirts (2) ††mess tin
††insect repellent ††lightweight waterproof ††spoon
(containing DEET) jacket ††mug
††pocket knife ††swimwear
††head torch (flashlight) ††warm top Miscellaneous
††spare mini-torch ††sunhat ††wash kit
††small binoculars ††sarong ††sunscreen
††notepad and pencil ††sweat rag ††towel
††toilet paper
Clothing Sleeping ††sewing kit
††jungle boots ††basha (tarpaulin) sheet ††waterproof freezer
††breathable waterproof ††hammock bags
socks or boot liners

Pre-Trip Preparation for the flow of underground streams, the
drip of stalactites and the whoosh of bat and
Climbing one of Borneo’s iconic mountains swiftlet wings.
is like a jungle trek except more so – more
exhausting, more psychologically chal­ Sarawak’s Gunung Mulu National Park is
lenging and especially more vertical. Be a place of spelunking superlatives. It has the
prepared for ascents that turn your legs to world’s second-largest cave passage (Deer
rubber and for much colder weather. Book Cave, which is 2km in length and 174m in
well ahead. height), the world’s largest cave ­chamber
(Sarawak Chamber, at 700m long, 400m
Guides & Agencies wide and 70m high) and Asia’s longest cave
(Clearwater Cave, with 225km of passages).
Many of the agencies that handle trekking Several of the park’s finest caves are – like
(p22) also offer mountain ascents. Some their counterp­ arts in Niah National Park
more experienced guides in the Kelabit and Sabah’s Gomantong Caves – accessible
Highlands can take you to two rarely climbed to nons­ pelunkers on raised walkways.
peaks, Batu Lawi and Gunung Murud.
A pitch-black passageway deep in the
Caving bowels of the earth is not the ideal place
to discover that you can’t deal with narrow,
Slice one of Borneo’s limestone hills in half confined spaces. Before heading under­
and chances are you’ll find that the inside ground, seriously consider your suscepti­
looks like Swiss cheese. Borneans have been bility to claustrophobia and fear of heights
living, harvesting birds’ nests, planning in­ (some caves require scaling underground
surgencies and burying their dead in these cliffs). If you have any concerns about a
caves for tens of thousands of years. specific route, discuss these with your guide
beforehand.
These days, the island’s subterranean
spaces – including some of the largest cav­ Be prepared to crawl through muck, in­
erns anywhere on earth – are quiet, except cluding bat guano, and bring clothes you
won’t mind getting filthy in (some guides
and agencies supply these).

25

When to Go rougher waters than their inland counter­ PL AN YOUR TRIP A dventure B orneo
parts. In Sarawak and parts of Kalimantan,
Rain can flood the interior of some caves at this is especially true from November to
any time of the year. March, when the northeast monsoon can
bring choppy conditions.
Gunung Mulu National Park has a
s­ hortage of trained spelunking guides, so Costs
unless you’ll be hiring a private guide or
going with a tour agency, make your res­ Travel by boat does not come cheap, mainly
ervations well in advance. Some dates in because marine engines and outboard
July, August and September are likely to be ­motors, which must shove aside prodigious
booked out months ahead. quantities of water, really slurp up the
­petrol.
Guides & Agencies
For a small motorboat with a capacity of
»»Gunung Mulu National Park (p180) four to six people, count on paying about
»»Kuching Caving (p192) RM7 per kilometre, or roughly RM100 to
RM150 per hour of actual sailing time.
Jungle River Trips While the boat is moored somewhere – at
an island or a remote beach, for instance –
The mountains and jungles of Borneo are you’ll have to remunerate the driver but,
drained by some of Southeast Asia’s longest obviously, there are no fuel costs when the
rivers. Whether it’s tearing up a mainline motor is off.
­batang (Iban for ‘large river’) in a speedboat,
rafting down a sungai (Bahasa M­ alaysia for Guides & Agencies
‘river’) or kayaking on a narrow ai (Iban for
‘small river’) in an ulu (upriver) part of the Following are some of the agencies that can
interior, you’ll find that these watery high­ organise longboat trips, rafting, kayaking
ways are perhaps the best way to experience and other water-borne adventures (and in
Borneo. many cases day hikes too).

Many parts of Borneo’s interior can be Sabah
reached only by river, so hopping on a boat
is a necessity. There’s something magi­ »»Borneo Authentic (p46)
cal about heading to a human settlement »»Borneo Eco Tours (p46)
connected by road to absolutely nowhere, »»Borneo Nature Tours (p46)
especially if you’re in the safe hands of an »»GogoSabah (p45)
experienced boatman and accompanied by »»Only in Borneo (p107)
locals. »»Riverbug (p45)
»»SI Tours (p74)
On larger rivers, transport is often by ‘fly­ »»Uncle Tan (p74)
ing coffin’ – long, narrow passenger boats »»River Junkie (p106)
with about 70 seats, not including the people
sitting on the roof. Thanks to their mighty Sarawak
engines, these craft can power upriver
against very strong currents. Ferry safety is »»Gunung Mulu National Park (p180)
a major issue in Kalimantan. »»Rainforest Kayaking (p132)
»»Stu Roach, Bario, Kelabit Highlands (p187)
In a smaller upriver craft, such as a temuai
(shallow-draft Iban longboat), be prepared Kalimantan
for you and your (hopefully waterp­ roofed)
kit to get dunked – and to get out and push Guides can be found in Banjarmasin (p259),
if it hasn’t rained for a while. Whatever the Loksado (p263), Tanjung Puting National
size of the vessel, be aware that rivers can Park (p251) and the Sungai Mahakam
suddenly rise by 2m or more after a down­ (p228). Other options:
pour. If a boat looks unseaworthy or lacks »»Borneo Orangutan Adventure Tour (p253)
basic safety equipment (especially life vests), »»Borneo Wisata Permai Tours (p253)
don’t be shy about speaking up. »»Kalimantan Tour Destinations (p257)

Sea-going craft travelling along the coast
and out to offshore islands have to deal with

26

Diving Pulau Sipadan

Best Times for Diving The waters off the island of Sipadan were
declared ‘one of the world’s best diving sites’
April–September This is turtle time, when by no less an expert than Jacques Cousteau.
sea turtles come to the archipelago to lay Every year, his assessment is confirmed by
their eggs in the soft sand. You’re unlikely to thousands of divers who come here to ex­
actually see turtles laying eggs, but you may plore Sipadan’s plunging sea wall, home
spot them dancing their slow ballet beneath and transit point for a staggering array of
the waves. That said, turtles are always marine life, including green and hawksbill
present in these waters – they’re just highly sea turtles, hammerhead sharks, parrotfish,
concentrated during this period. manta rays and schools of fish so massive
July–August Visibility is often stunning at they resemble silver tornadoes or shimmer­
this time of year, and clear views to 25m ing walls of armour.
are common. You’ll likely have to deal with
more crowds as well, as this is prime holiday But those same divers make it hard for
time in the northern hemisphere. Book well Sipadan to remain ‘an untouched piece of
in advance if you want to visit during this art’, as Cousteau put it. Sipadan is many
period. things, including one of Borneo’s most pop­
December–February This is the local wet ular tourism destinations, but untouched it
season. The rain doesn’t impact visibility is not. The Malaysian government has seen
too badly, but monsoon winds may keep the need to preserve the integrity of S­ ipadan
boats from accessing Sipadan and the other and, as a result, visiting the island is a tightly
Semporna islands. On the other hand, by regulated process (although visitors never
January crowds have thinned out a bit. The deal with the paperwork themselves). In fact,
rains sometimes continue into March. no tourists are even allowed on the i­sland of
Sipadan; rather, its surrounding waters at­
tract mobs of divers, many of whom have
travelled great distances to e­ mbark on the
marine trek of a lifetime.

Planning

When to Go

The good news: there isn’t a bad time to dive
Sipadan, at least as far as visibility and wild­
life go. But consider how much you want to
balance factors like weather (ie rain or no

27

rain), crowds and abundance of marine life. ARE YOU EXPERIENCED? PL AN YOUR TRIP D iving P ulau S ipadan
The general rule of thumb: the better the
conditions, the larger the crowds. The corol­ Sipadan rewards experienced
lary: wildlife spotting is almost always good, divers, but you don’t have to be a
and thanks to the strict permit process, scuba veteran to enjoy the island,
crowds rarely feel overwhelming. and nearby places like Mabul are
easy for beginners. Even if you’ve
Getting to Sipadan never dived, every tour company we
list (p94) can get you open-water
Sipadan is an island in the Semporna Ar­ certified, for reasonable prices
chipelago, situated just off Sabah’s eastern compared to most of the world.
tip. Eight islands within the archipelago Snorkellers are accommodated in
form the Semporna Marine Park, the largest Semporna as well; all the outfits we
marine park in Malaysia. The closest town recommend offer snorkelling pack-
is also named Semporna; a nearby naval ages for less than diving packages
station has the area’s only decompression (see p93).
chamber.
are clouds of marine life – the abundance of
The closest airport is at Tawau, 72km which almost defies hyperbole. It’s the most
west of Semporna town; a taxi from the famous marine destination in the Semporna
airport to Semporna runs around RM100. Archipelago.
Otherwise, there are numerous bus con­ Mid Reef The central, eastern-facing portion
nections between Semporna and the rest of the Sea Wall often contains one of the finest
of Sabah – for more information, see p92. concentrations of marine life in the archipelago.
Note that unless you arrive in Semporna Barracuda Point Schools of undulating barrac­ uda
town early in the day, you’ll likely have to form seemingly impenetrable walls of scales
stay there overnight. and fins.
Coral Garden A sloped wall inhabited by macro
Permits & Dive sea life. White tip reef sharks sometimes roll by,
Operators pecking the coral clean – but don’t worry, they’ll
leave you alone.
Access to Sipadan is regulated by a tightly Hanging Garden Sea fans peek out among the
controlled permitting process. You can’t many overhangs that give this area its name.
get out there on your own; you must book South Point Excellent spot for larger marine life
with a tour operator, who will determine like manta rays.
the day(s) you are allowed to dive Sipadan Turtle Tombs/Caves You can’t fit into these coral
(note: you can dive other sites in the Sem­ caverns, which may be for the best, as they shelter
porna Archipelago without a permit). A list the bones and shells of countless sea turtles who
of dive operators can be found on p94. got lost inside and drowned.

The dive operators also run places to Other diving locations around Semporna:
stay. Most accommodation, and all budget Mabul Rich in all types of marine life, and
options, are on the small island of Mabul. ­particularly good for muck diving (ie searching
Other possibilities include ritzier choices out smaller life forms in the sea mud), although
on the islands of Mataking, Kapalai and you’ll also likely spot rays and sea turtles.
Pom Pom; for a complete list, see p95. Mataking Vertical wall dives here lead you
Note that diving is the main event here – past grey reef sharks and manta rays, among
while the islands mentioned are pretty, other outstanding forms of marine life.
they’re too small to be enjoyed as island Kapalai Relatively easy but offers exceedingly
­retreats in and of themselves. rewarding diving in conditions that are often
­shallow and sandy.
Best Diving Sites

Around Sipadan

There are roughly a dozen delineated dive
sites orbiting Sipadan island:
The Sea Wall The water here drops into a blue
abyss some 2000m deep. Arising from this cleft

PL AN YOUR TRIP D iving P ulau S ipadan28 TIM ROCK/GETTY IMAGES ©

»»(above) Diver passing coral fans inTIM ROCK/GETTY IMAGES ©
waters near Sipadan (p93)

»»(left) Sea turtle swimming near reefs
off Sipadan (p93)

29

WATERY WAYPOINT PL AN YOUR TRIP D iving P ulau S ipadan

Travellers know Sipadan as a diving destination. But if you’re a marine biologist (or
a fish), you’ll know Sipadan as the grand highway interchange for the Indo-Pacific
basin, one of the world’s seminal marine habitats. Any tropical fish worth its fins
ends up swimming by here at some point. OK, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but
the Semporna Archipelago does sit atop a pretty incredible watery confluence, and
Sipadan is the crossroads of that confluence. Part of the reason is the excellent
condition of local reefs; sadly, much of the nearby coral, especially in the Philippines
and Indonesia, has been seriously degraded by pollution and dynamite fishing.

Elsewhere in Borneo »»Keep your gear tight. Gauges, fins and other
accessories can scrape the sea floor or coral.
Layang Layang A remote island renowned for wall »»Observe animals – without trying to handle
dives, pristine coral and real adventure. them. This goes double for sea turtles; trying
Pulau Mantanani Two little flecks of land ringed to handle them stresses them out and can be
by a halo of colourful coral. especially detrimental to egg-bearing females.
Derawan Archipelago Has some brilliant pier, »»Don’t feed sea creatures. When you feed wildlife,
cave and wall dives. it stops being wild.
Miri Visibility is variable but the area has some »»Ask your operators not to anchor on coral
interesting wrecks. (this isn’t much of an issue in Semporna, where
operators are conscientious, but it’s good to be
Responsible vigilant).
Diving »»Throw all rubbish, including cigarette butts,
into a bag and take it with you when you leave.
Here’s how you can do your part to keep the »»If you wish, participate in local conservation
Semporna Archipelago healthy for future efforts. Every now and then accommodation
generations of fish and divers: owners in Mabul try to clean up rubbish in the
»»Avoid touching or standing on coral. Even a local Malay and Bajau villages – visitors are
strong flipper kick can irreparably damage a reef. welcome to join in.
»»Practise neutral buoyancy. It’s useful for all »»Avoid eating the local marine life, especially
divers and keeps you off the coral. shark fin soup at Chinese restaurants.

30 Whether you’ve got six days or
60, these itineraries provide a
Itiner- starting point for the trip of a
aries lifetime. Want more inspiration?
Head online to lonelyplanet.
com/thorntree to chat with other
travellers.

Kuching Bako SOUTH
Wetlands NaPtaiorknal CHINA
National Park
#÷ SEA

GNuantuionngaGl aPdarinkg ÷#
É
É É É
É É

É
É •# Kuching
É

•# ÷#•# Semenggoh
Wind Cave & Nature
Reserve
Fairy Cave SARAWAK

É

KALIMANTAN •# Annah
Rais

One Week

Kuching Excursions

Spend your first day in Kuching tuning into the vibe of the city’s kaleidoscopic mix
of cultures and cuisines. Explore the narrow streets of Old Chinatown, ride a tiny
passenger ferry to the English Renaissance–style Fort Margherita, and take a sunset
stroll along the Waterfront Promenade. If it’s Saturday, head to the Satok Weekend
Market in the afternoon; if it’s Sunday, visit in the morning; and if a giant Rafflesia flower
happens to be in bloom in Gunung Gading National Park, drop everything and rush
over before it fades away. On the way back, explore the Wind Cave and the Fairy Cave.
On other days, combine a daytime excursion with an evening enjoying Kuching’s fine eat­
eries and chic but laid-back nightlife. Spend a half-day spotting orangutans at Semenggoh
Nature Reserve, then drive further inland to the longhouse of Annah Rais, where you
can stay overnight. Take a boat to Bako National Park, keeping an eye out for proboscis
m­ onkeys, macaques and pitcher plants as you hike around the peninsula. One day spend
the sunset hour cruising around Kuching Wetlands National Park, alert for fireflies,
crocs and proboscis monkeys.

SOUTH É •#Pulau 31
CHINA Banggi
#f PHILIPPINES
SEA
ÉKudat •##f
Pulau É
Mantanani •#

É
É
#f PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES
É SULU SEA
•# Kota Belud
Tuaran •# #f
Kota •# É RMt(4K0i9n5amba)lu
Kinabalu #• Sepilok
É ÉÉ
É
SABAH #• Sungai
Kinabatangan
É É

É
É
Maliau Basin #•
Conservation •# Danum Valley C E SLEEAB E S
Conservation
Area
Area
SARAWAK

É

#f •# Semporna
Archipelago
KALIMANTAN

Three Weeks

Around Sabah

Arrive in Kota Kinabalu (KK) and give yourself two days to pre-book accommoda­
tion in places like Sungai Kinabatangan, the Semporna Archipelago (if you plan on
diving) and Mt Kinabalu – accommodation at the latter should ideally be booked be­
fore you get to Sabah. Whilst in KK, make sure to eat at the Night Market and take a
trip to the Mari Mari Cultural Village, Sabah Museum and Lok Kawi Wildlife Park – you can
get a taste of the cultures, landscapes and animal life you’re about to encounter firsthand.
Party on the KK waterfront your first night in town, but try to keep your head clear the
morning you leave Sabah’s capital.
If you decide to climb Mt Kinabalu, it’s easiest to leave from KK. You’ll need to allow
two to three days for the mountain – there’s the climb itself, and the day of rest you’ll need
afterwards! Whether you climb the highest mountain in Borneo or not, give yourself a few
days to explore northwest Sabah. In the vicinity of Tuaran you can visit a lovely water vil­
lage, while in Kota Belud you can relax at Mañana guesthouse and see, if you time things
right, the famous Sunday tamu (market). Heading north are the hidden beaches of Kudat,
and offshore, the isolated, off-the-tourist-trail islands of Pulau Mantanani (easier to get to
from Kota Belud) and Pulau Banggi. This area is great for homestays.
Now a little over a week into your trip, head east to Sepilok and its famous orangutan
sanctuary. After watching our arboreal cousins being fed in a wildlife reserve, try to spot
them in the wild during a river cruise down the Sungai Kinabatangan. There are great
lodges and homestays out this way. Relaxing in these two spots could easily fill four days to
a week. Now decide – do you want to finish by diving in the Semporna Archipelago? Or
trekking in the Danum Valley or Maliau Basin? All of these options are possible, but to be
practical and give these destinations the time they deserve, allow five days for each. If you
want to both dive and see Danum or Maliau, cut out the days allotted above for exploring
northwest Sabah.

32

BANDAR SERI
BEGAWAN

_#f# SABAH

ÉMiri •#É ÷#
ÉÉUlu Temburong
SOUTH BRUNEI National Park
PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIESCHINA
Niah É ÷#•# #–É ÷# Gunung Mulu
SEA National Park ÉÉ National Park
Sibu É
NaStiimonilaaljaPuark ÷# Batu –# É
É •# Niah
Junction
•#
Kelabit
Highlands
Bintulu •# Orang Ulu
•# Longhouses

SARAWAK É •# Belaga
ÉÉ

É f# É Kapit
•#
Kuching •#
KALIMANTAN

Three Weeks

Kuching to Brunei

Fly into Kuching and spend a few days exploring this multicultural mini-metropolis,
delving into its scrumptious cuisine scene for breakfast (Sarawak laksa), lunch and
dinner. Take day trips to nearby national parks in search of orangutans, proboscis
monkeys and exotic flora. Then hop on the daily express ferry to the mostly Chinese
river port of Sibu, where you can continue to eat well – don’t miss the Foochow specialities
on offer in the vast Central Market.
Sibu serves as the gateway to the mighty Batang Rejang (Rejang River), the ‘Amazon of
Borneo’. Board an early-morning ‘flying coffin’ express boat and head upriver to ­Kapit, a
bustling trading centre founded in the days of the White Rajahs. If the river level is high
enough, continue on to back-of-beyond Belaga, jumping-off point for short treks to a
number of fascinating Orang Ulu longhouses.
A bone-jarring 4WD ride will get you down to the coastal city of Bintulu, Borneo’s natural
gas capital. Avoid the less-than-fetching city centre and head straight to the beaches, rain­
forest trails and bungalows of oft-overlooked Similajau National Park, which stretches­
along the coast for 30km.
Hop on a bus heading northeast to Batu Niah Junction, situated just a few kilom­ etres
from the vast caves, chirping bat colonies and prehistoric archaeological sites of Niah
N­ ational Park. Next stop is the shiny petroleum city of Miri, home to a flourishing guest­
house scene that nicely complements the excellent dining options (especially fish). Chilling
here amid mod cons is a great way to spend a day or two before flying into Borneo’s interior
for a few days – travellers speak glowingly of both Gunung Mulu National Park, a Unesco
World Heritage site, and the gorgeously green and amazingly friendly Kelabit Highlands.
After flying back to Miri, take a bus – or the newspaper delivery van – to Bandar Seri
Begawan, the surprisingly laid-back capital of the tiny, oil-rich sultanate of Brunei. Sev­
eral museums showcase Bruneian culture, and culinary creations can be enjoyed at BSB’s
superb – and surprisingly inexpensive – hawker centres. End your Bornean odyssey back in
the primeval rainforest by taking a speedboat, a car and finally a longboat to the pristine
jungles of Ulu Temburong National Park.

33

Pulau Derawan Derawan
Berau •# É •#•#A•#rchipelago
SARAWAK É &
É Pulau Maratua
Nunukan Island
Wehea #÷
Forest
É
ÉÉ –#
PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES
KALIMANTAN Tenggarong Makassar Strait
MancongJa&nt•#uÉr •# É
•# •# Samarinda

Longhouses É
É
•#Balikpapan SULAWESI
É
Pegunungan Meratus
(Meratus Mountains) É
Pangkalan É R É •# Loksado
Bun•# É •#
#– Kandagan
÷# É
•#
Tanjung Puting Banjarmasin
National Park

É

Three Weeks

Around Kalimantan

Fly into Berau, preferably via hopping Balikpapan (where you can get your visa on
arrival), and explore the nearby Derawan Archipelago, home to some world-class
diving. You can spend the night swapping stories with backpackers on Pulau Der-
awan, or head to the little-touristed outer islands, like Pulau Maratua (backpacker
heaven) or tiny Nunukan Island, a resort perched on a blackened reef. Once back in Berau,
head south to unspoiled Wehea Forest where you will find virgin rainforest at its very best.
Look for rare wildlife and stay overnight in an ecolodge on a rushing stream. From there it’s
on to exotic Samarinda, gateway to the Sungai Mahakam and home to an eye-popping
mosque. Head upriver to Tenggarong, with its resplendent keraton (palace) and golden
lembuswana (mythical winged creature with an elephant’s trunk); take a gaily-coloured ces
(longtail canoe) on an unforgettable journey through the marshes and waterways around
Mancong; and overnight on a kapal biasa, a river ferry that acts like a floating hostel.
Side trips to longhouses reveal local Dayak culture past and present. Don’t miss fascinat­
ing Jantur, a large town with riverside boardwalks on the edge of an enormous wetland.
After returning to Balikpapan, take a bus to the pleasant village of Kandagan, gateway to
the Pegunungan Meratus (Meratus Mountains), and then a car to Loksado, a charm­
ing mountain hamlet that will capture your heart, where you can equally enjoy trekking,
­bamboo rafting or doing nothing. Continue on to Banjarmasin, where you can catch the
floating market in the early hours, then fly to Tanjung Puting National Park, where you
can cruise the Sungai Sekonyer in search of wildlife and watch wild orangutans emerge
from the forest to feed, in one of Indonesia’s most popular destinations. Then it’s onto
nearby Pangkalan Bun airport, where you’ll wonder how you ever packed all that into
three weeks.

34 Sabah

regions Hiking & Trekking PPP
at a Diving PPP
glance Jungle Wildlife PP

Sabah, in Borneo’s far north, brings Hiking & Trekking
together unspoilt rainforests – Novice explorers can take a
prime orangutan habitat – with night trek near the ­Sungai
some of the world’s most Kinabatangan or inch
phenomenal scuba diving. More across a canopy walkway
excellent diving awaits south of the in Poring Hot Springs,
Indonesian border on Kalimantan’s while the fit can test their
east coast, and there’s plenty of ­en­durance at the limestone
jungle adventure to be had inland, outcrops of Batu Punggul
along and between Kalimantan’s or on the icy peak of Mt
major rivers. On the north coast, Kinabalu.
Sarawak is home to the island’s Diving & Snorkelling
most accessible national parks – To say Sabah is known for
based in the sophisticated but laid- its scuba scene is like saying
back city of Kuching, you can take France is known for its cui­
day trips to see orangutans and sine. The diving in spots like
(if you’re lucky) a 75cm-wide Pulau Mantanani, Layang
Rafflesia flower, hike in the jungle Layang and, of course, the
and visit longhouse communities. famous Sipadan is – no
Tiny Brunei, with a tempo and exaggeration – some of the
culinary customs all its own, finest in the world.
offers visitors pristine habitats Jungle Wildlife
and a modernising take on Malay Hornbills shriek in trees
traditions. inhabited by pot-bellied
proboscis monkeys, and
slow-swinging through the
canopy comes the ginger
mass of an orangutan – to
see one of these primates in
the wild is to be reduced to
grinning awe.
p38

35

Sarawak Brunei Kalimantan PLAN YOUR TRIP REGIONS AT A GLANCE

Hiking & Trekking PPP Culture PP Hiking & Trekking PPP
Cave Exploration PPP Food PP Jungle Wildlife PPP
Jungle Wildlife PP Boat Rides PP Diving PP

Hiking & Trekking Culture Hiking & Trekking
Trekking from Bario to Bandar Seri Begawan’s The supremely fit and truly
Ba Kelalan or assaulting two opulent 20th-century adventurous can take the
the summit of Gunung mosques feature eye- 2½-week Cross-Borneo
Mulu will exhilarate expe­ popping architecture and Trek, but the easiest area for
rienced hikers, but even a sumptuous interior decor, jungle exploration – with
relaxed stroll through one but many visitors find the a wide range of guides
of Sarawak’s Kuching-area traditional lifestyle and available – is the stunning ­
national parks will envelop architecture of Kampung Pegunungan Meratus
you in the wonders of the Ayer, a Malay stilt village, (Meratus Mountains), using
equatorial rainforest. more engaging. Loksado as base camp.
Cave Exploration Food Jungle Wildlife
The Wind Cave, Fairy Cave Bruneian cuisine may not If you’re an amateur
and Niah National Park be well known, but we can naturalist, Kalimantan’s
boast huge caverns with guarantee you’ve never e­ a­ten rainforests will exceed
stalactites and bats, but for anything like ambuyat­ even your wildest dreams.
sheer size and spectacle you (made from sago starch), A good guide can help you
can’t beat Gunung Mulu and that the delicious kuih spot orangutans, gibbons,
National Park, renowned (baked sweets) available in macaques, flying squirrels,
for the Deer Cave and night markets will perfectly monitor lizards, crocodiles
the 700m-long Sarawak complement a quick satay or and giant butterflies.
­Chamber. curry chicken meal. Diving & Snorkelling
Jungle Wildlife Boat Rides In the Derawan Archi­
Wild proboscis monkeys The speedboat ride from pelago, surrounded by the
munch leaves at Bako Bandar Seri Begawan to Celebes Sea, you can swim
National Park, orangutans Bangar is the biggest thrill in coral-blue water with
swing through the canopy B$6 can buy, but ­nothing giant green turtles, manta
at Semenggoh Nature beats starting the day rays, myriad reef fish,
R­ eserve, and estuarine h­ eading upriver to Ulu sharks and whales. Borneo’s
c­ rocodiles lurk in the T­ emburong National Park best-kept secret!
muddy waters of Kuching in a shallow-draft Iban p215
Wetlands National Park. longboat.
p121 p196

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

SABAH. . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 SARAWAK. . . . . . . . . . 121 KALIMANTAN. . . . . . 215

KOTA KINABALU. . . . . . . . . 40 KUCHING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 EAST KALIMANTAN . . . . . 220
Balikpapan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
AROUND KOTA WESTERN SARAWAK. . . . . 142 Samarinda. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
KINABALU. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Bako National Park . . . . . . 142 Sungai Mahakam. . . . . . . . 228
Tunku Abdul Rahman Santubong Peninsula . . . . 146 Wehea Forest . . . . . . . . . . . 237
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Kuching Wetlands Berau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 148 Derawan Archipelago. . . . . 239
NORTHWESTERN Semenggoh Nature
SABAH. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 NORTH KALIMANTAN . . . 242
Mt Kinabalu & Kinabalu Kubah National Park. . . . . . 151
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Bau & Environs. . . . . . . . . . 153 WEST KALIMANTAN. . . . . 242
Northwest Coast . . . . . . . . . 66 Gunung Gading Pontianak. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 155 Sukadana. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248
EASTERN SABAH . . . . . . . . . 71 Talang-Satang Sungai Kapuas. . . . . . . . . . 249
Sandakan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 157
Sepilok. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 CENTRAL
Sandakan CENTRAL SARAWAK. . . . . . 159 KALIMANTAN. . . . . . . . . . . . 251
Archipelago. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Sibu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 Tanjung Puting
Sungai Batang Rejang . . . . . . . . . . 163 National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 251
Kinabatangan. . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Bintulu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Pangkalan Bun. . . . . . . . . . 255
Lahad Datu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Similajau National Park . . 169 Palangka Raya . . . . . . . . . . 256
Danum Valley Niah National Park. . . . . . . . 171
Conservation Area. . . . . . . . 88 Miri. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 SOUTH KALIMANTAN . . . 259
Tabin Wildlife Banjarmasin. . . . . . . . . . . . 259
Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 NORTHEASTERN Loksado. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263
Semporna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 SARAWAK. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
Semporna Gunung Mulu
Archipelago. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 180
Tawau. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Kelabit Highlands. . . . . . . . 186
Tawau Hills Park. . . . . . . . . 101 Limbang Division. . . . . . . . 193
Maliau Basin
Conservation Area. . . . . . . 101 BRUNEI . . . . . . . . . . . 196

SOUTHWESTERN BANDAR SERI
SABAH. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 BEGAWAN. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198
Beaufort Division. . . . . . . . 106
Pulau Tiga National TUTONG & BELAIT
Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 DISTRICTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
Pulau Labuan . . . . . . . . . . . 109
TEMBURONG DISTRICT. . . 210

Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their
favourite places are listed first

Look out for these icons: A green or No payment
Our author’s top sustainable option required
recommendation

Sabah

POP 3.39 MILLION / AREA 76,115 SQ KM

Kota Kinabalu..................40 Why Go?
Tunku Abdul Rahman
National Park.................. 54 Sabah’s beauty is quite simply gut-wrenching. This is one of
Mt Kinabalu & Kinabalu the most physically stunning places on Earth, a land of deep
National Park.................. 56 green jungle, craggy mountains and shockingly blue ocean
Offshore Islands.............. 70 that all seems to collide into one moving, magnificent vista.
Sandakan.........................71
Sepilok............................ 77 It’s a land for adventure enthusiasts and yet, we must
Sungai Kinabatangan..... 82 stress, not only adventure enthusiasts. Many treks around
Danum Valley Mt Kinabalu, for example, really consist of vigorous hikes,
Conservation Area.......... 88 jaunts you want to be fit to attempt, but don’t need to be in
Semporna........................91 Olympic shape to finish. Similarly, the diving in East Sabah –
Tawau.............................. 97 some of the best in the world – is easily accessible to
Maliau Basin b­ eginners. And anyone can sit on a boat and appreciate the
Conservation Area.........101 majesty of spotting clever lizards, prowling civets, doe-eyed
Pulau Labuan................ 109 loris and great ginger orangutans in the wild.

In addition, there is a thriving yet laid-back culture here.
Sabah’s citizens are wonderful: cosmopolitan, friendly,
f­amously relaxed folks who are quick to laugh and slow to
rile. Their good-humoured presence is the perfect accompa-
niment to the awe-inspiring scenery of their home.

Best Places When to Go Rainfall inches/mm
to Eat 32/800
Kota Kinabalu
»»KK’s Night Market (p40)
»»Alu-Alu Cafe (p48) °C/°F Temp
»»Moon Bell (p48) 40/104
»»Sim Sim Seafood
Restaurant (p76) 30/86 24/600

Best Places 20/68 16/400
to Stay
10/50 8/200
»»Mañana (p68)
»»Lupa Masa (p65) 0/32 MAM J 0
»»Tampat Do Aman (p69) JF J ASOND
»»Orou Sapulot (p105)
Jan–Apr A dry, Mar–Jul The Jun–Sep Hot and
pleasant time, water calms; this often (but defi-
exploding with is the best time nitely not always)
celebrations for for diving. rainy.
Chinese New
Year.

39

0 100 km
0 60 miles

SOUTH Pulau Pulau Sabah 
CHINA Balambangan Banggi

SEA Pulau Tip of Borneo Pulau

MaBnetsaanraniSikuati Kudat Malawali SULU
Pulau Pulau

To Layang Mantanani Kampung Jambongan SEA
Layang (120km) Kecil Usukan Bavanggazo
Bay Kota
Marudu
Su Sung
BBBLKLEABIaoLAaRPnaGbaNbtuintLaurbuelpdNiUAaaDumraKoanBunaaniWrrbAaantPAntNiatnaiouirnRgbonlpAaganaEPWaoKuMrlNalerSuutlenPTLIeaEsyaainNtlTgurawoRukaauMnmatKnISiseoikibmprRnuoaiaatkapKAalnhBoniPibnmsekgadaaarurunkuClPfTNTKtoareuoaorpnatttcaSiaSPorkoaraaamBenKKKnKbrprCaekuoiaelunlRonhuntPlaadandioG(Anabn1astrgugg9saeTkaanMer6lariMunuu4vcmgnamuaMtgblltiP)tuKKiau(AaMTion2taurtiaMulBPnaR6ianmtaktrlun4aBaaabTuuapAtn2lnPHdbauruuLmgaruiosaaonageusrin)tluguniaungStlgprTDSCiuenanolgnugnsupasAmiieLndSrrgaeuvVabagauiAautkRigltolBaoBenLiaypoSnoSturfduBennobgagepPraeateotuiuiAasltgotSHTirahMkcaCuTin/hnllaalauidsvpdwgaeePGakasSliaaouaLuDrngamCkkaohSaaatASaavuunandietrndsopKNTdanouLSakuagranBkautrtBAhaiitanlanoliaukinetirndgkpSTIaiaeosDtlugilrBPaanatSKmntageeuSAdirmlkankaTseurnpaocWRTmCdombhaeareipbasiSanlpleditonaeenrSaelgrvabianflnegeeabgaosgaanhongatKina

Sungai Padas Kalabaken
Sungai
Sapulut

Tawau Pulau Tun Sakaran

Nunukan Pulau Mabul Marine Park

Sebuku Sebatik Pulau Pulau
Sembakung Kapalai
SARAWAK Sipadan
National

Park

Apokayan Highlands Long
Bawan

KALIMANTAN Tarakan CELEBES
SEA
INDONESIA

Sabah Highlights Maliau Basin Conservation Batu Punggul rock formation
Area (p101) in Sapulot (p105)
1 Admiring the sea turtles 4 Watching orangutans in 7 Enjoying the nightlife and
among the Semporna Sepilok (p77) eating opportunities of Kota
Archipelago’s (p93) reefs 5 Discovering the hidden Kinabalu (p48)
2 Hoofing it over beaches of northern Borneo 8 Staying in a homestay and
pitcher plants and granite near Kudat (p69) spotting primates from a boat
moonscapes for the ultimate 6 Floating down a river on the Sungai Kinabatangan
Bornean sunrise atop Mt through primary jungle to the (p86)
Kinabalu (p59)
3 Breathing in the air of an
actual virgin rainforest in the

40

KOTA KINABALU ANIMAL ALERT

Sabah KS oigthatKsi&naAbcatliuvities POP 630,000 During KK’s big Sunday Market,
animals lovers may want to stay away
We realise you almost certainly didn’t come from the market area where Jln Gaya
to Sabah for the urban scene, but you have intersects Beach Street; pet kittens
to book permits somewhere, you gotta and puppies are put out for sale in
sleep after climbing Mt Kinabalu/diving mesh cages and they don’t look happy
in Sipadan/exploring the jungle etc, and in the midday heat. Locals don’t seem
you need some place to connect to onward to mind, and to be fair, most vendors
travel, and KK, as everyone calls it, is a good try to provide water and shade for the
place (sometimes the only place) to do all animals, but many Western travellers
of the above. The centre is walkable. The are put off by the sight.
population is a spicy mix of expats, Chinese,
indigenous Kadazan and of course, Malays. be haunted; the ghosts drove away the con­
The food is good – surprisingly good, given struction crews, presumably because they
you’re in Malaysia’s hinterlands. Nightlife liked the idea of ugly concrete foundations
is fun, a testament to Sabah’s laid-back ap­ overlooking KK.
proach to life; there aren’t a lot of bars. The
downside is out of control construction; KK Atkinson Clock Tower LANDMARK
desperately seems to want to answer the
question, ‘How many empty malls can we (Map p42) The modest timepiece at the foot
build in one city?’, but past this one demerit, of the hill is one of the only structures to
it’s hard not to love this town.

1 Sights & Activities survive the Allied bombing of Jesselton in
1945. It’s a square, 15.7m-high wooden struc­
CITY CENTRE & WATERFRONT ture that was completed in 1905 and named

Night Market MARKET after the first district officer of the town, FG

(Map p42; Jln Tun Fuad Stephens; hlate afternoon- Atkinson, who died of malaria aged 28.
11pm) KK’s main market is a place of deli­
cious contrasts. Huddled beneath the im­
posing Le Meridien, the market is divided Central Market MARKET

into two main sections: the southwest end (Map p42; Jln Tun Fuad Stephens; h6.30am-6pm)
The Central Market is fun to wander about,
is given over mostly to produce, while the and a nice spot for people watching as lo­
northeast end (the area around the main
entrance) is a huge hawker centre where cals transact their daily business. Nearby,
the Handicraft Market (Filipino Market; Jln
you can eat your way right through the Tun Fuad Stephens; h10am-6pm) is a good place
entire Malay gastronomy. A fish-and-food
market extends to the waterfront; the closer to shop for inexpensive souvenirs. Offerings
include pearls, textiles, seashell crafts, jewel­
you get to the ocean, the more the scent of lery and bamboo goods, some from the Phil­
salt water, death, blood and spices envelops
you – an oddly intoxicating experience. If ippines, some from Malaysia and some from
other parts of Asia. Needless to say, bargain­
you’ve never seen a proper Southeast Asian ing is a must.
market, this place will be a revelation.

Signal Hill LANDMARK KK Heritage Walk WALKING TOUR

(Map p42) There’s a UFO-like observation (www.kkheritagewalk.com; admission RM200;
hwalks 9am Tue & Thu) This two-hour tour,
pavilion on this hill at the eastern edge of which can be booked through any of KK’s
the city centre. Come here to escape the traf­
fic and get another take on the squatters’ many tour operators (just ask at your hotel
front desk), explores colonial KK and its hid­
stilt village at Pulau Gaya. The view is best den delights. Stops include Chinese herbal
as the sun sets over the islands. From the
top, it’s also possible to hike down to the shops, bulk produce stalls, a kopitiam (cof­
fee shop), and Jln Gaya (known as Bond St
Wetland Centre on the other side, but it’s a when the British were in charge). There’s
longer way than it looks – don’t try this if
it’s getting dark, as the walk can take up to also a quirky treasure hunt at the end lead­
ing tourists to the Jesselton Hotel. Guides
two hours. Near here are some shells of un­ speak English, Chinese and Bahasa Malaysia.
finshed building sites that were rumored to

41

Sunday Market MARKET

(Map p42;Jln Gaya; h7am-3pm Sun) On Sundays, FIND YOUR WAY IN KK
a lively Chinese street fair takes over the
entire length of Jln Gaya. It’s a pretty manic Downtown KK is a dense grid of con-
scene and a perfect spot for souvenir shop­ crete buildings nestled between the
ping, but animal lovers may want to avoid waterfront and a range of low, forested
some sections. hills to the east. It’s compact, walkable
and easy to navigate – most of the Sabah KS oigthatKsi&naAbcatliuvities
BEYOND THE CITY CENTRE restaurants, markets, accommoda-
Some of KK’s best attractions are located tion, tourist offices and tour operators
beyond the city centre, and it’s well worth are located here. Transport terminals
putting in the effort to check them out. bookend the city on either side.

Sabah Museum MUSEUM

(%253199; www.museum.sabah.gov.my; Jln Muz- hold of your admission ticket – it also allows
ium; admission RM20; h9am-5pm Sat-Thu; p) entry to Agnes Keith House in Sandakan.
Centred on a modern four-storey structure
inspired by the longhouses of the Rungus
and Murut tribes, this is the best place to Mari Mari Cultural Village MUSEUM

go in KK for an introduction to Sabah’s (%019-820 4921; www.traversetours.com/culturalvil
lage.php; Jln Kiansom; adult/child RM160/140; p)
ethnicities and environments. It’s slightly Mari Mari is an entertaining combination of
south of the city centre, on the hilly cor­ semi-corny and semi-educational. It’s sup­
ner of Jln Tunku Abdul Rahman and Jln posed to offer insight into the living cultures
Penampang. of Sabah via a three-hour show-tour (begin­
In the main building there are good per­ ning at 10am, 3pm and 7pm), which winds
manent collections of tribal and historical through the jungle passing various tribal
artefacts including ceramics and exhibits dwellings along the way. At each stop, tour­
of flora and fauna – some dusty, others well ists learn about indigenous folkways and can
presented (including a centrepiece whale try their hand at bamboo cooking, rice-wine
skeleton). The prehistory gallery has a rep­ making (and drinking!), fire starting, tattoo­
lica limestone cave, in case you don’t make ing, blowpipe shooting etc. A short dance re­
it to any of the real ones. In the gardens, cital and meal are included in the visit – the
the Heritage Village offers the chance to centre must be notified of any dietary restric­
wander round examples of traditional tribal tions in advance. A trip to the cultural village
dwellings, including Kadazan bamboo hous­ can be combined with a white-water rafting
es and a Chinese farmhouse, all nicely set on tour; contact Riverbug for more information.
a lily-pad lake. The village is a 20-minute to 30-minute drive
The adjoining Science & Education north of central KK, so most people visit it on
C­ entre has an informative exhibition on the a package tour, but if you come on your own
petroleum industry, from drilling to refining the admission is RM80/70 for adults/children.
and processing. The Sabah Art Gallery fea­ Rather than portraying living cultures,
tures regular shows and exhibitions by local Mari Mari sort of freezes local ethnic groups
artists. If you’re heading east after KK, keep into museum pieces. No one is dressing in

THE SOUTHSIDE CONNECTION

A paved road makes a frowning arc from KK to Tawau, passing Mt Kinabalu, Sepilok,
Sandakan, Lahad Datu and Semporna (the gateway to Sipadan) along the way. It takes
around 10 hours to complete the circuit.

Getting from KK to Tawau via the northern half of the island, via a big frown, is easy.
Doing the smile side of the loop (going back to KK through the south from Tawau): not
so much. The road here is not entirely paved, but there’s at least finely crushed gravel
the whole way through. A 2WD or even motorbike can make the drive, but drive carefully.
An infrastructure of public buses does not yet exist here; minivans occasionally ran this
stretch of road, but only when needed by logging camps. If you can get a lift to Keningau,
the rest of the journey to KK is a breeze.

42

Kota Kinabalu e# 0 420 m
A 0
61 0.14 miles
6 6662 B C D

phens 47 þ#
Jln KK Bypass
9JSl4tn3e33Tp62uh3þ#1n#ú˜#e##ú82nFû#sua1d#ð#31ú#44ý#12ÿ#264F#ì##u91aA5í#d5#î5iÿ#r2S3ú#At#e8sì#3iÿ#a4í#ÿ#78514128570#ï0ÿ#ÿ#ÿ#ì#ABST1u6oao2suba1Ptrarrlidahslmia #æ South 29 ú# ‚ 1
China To City Mosque (5km); ‚
Sabah KS oigthatKsi&naAbcatliuvities Jln Tun
Pantai Sea Puh Toh Tze (5.7km);
Utara Bus Terminal (Inanam) (7.4km);
Jln
Immigration Office (9km);
Tuaran (33km)

46

Jln KK Bypass
See Enlargement

6 66626ÿ# Wisma Jln Haji Sam an
Merdeka
45 #þ ð# 27 ÿ# æ# 4 2
19 Signal
Jln Gaya 14 ú#30 39 #ÿ Hill
ÿ# #û
Kompleks
ÿ#Beach æ#5 P olis ÿ# 25 2 æ# Segama
St
666663 28 13 lai
ÿ# Jln Ba æ# 1 ò# Jln Bandaran
100 m ›#City Park Bus Station
0

Razak 3

3 (Buses to Airport)
Waterfront æ#
Esplanade Tun City ›# Padang Merdeka
#ÿ24 Park Bus Terminal
35 #ú Jln
SentJlonsa
66640ý#
44#þ Warisan
Square Jln Padang

23#ÿ SINSURAN #˜
Jln Pasar Baru
31 #ú Kompleks
Centre Sedco
Point
4 4
Api-Api666#ï
Centre
Tourism
Malaysia
Lebuh Raya Pantai Baru
Jln Tunku Abdul Rahman
5 Minibus & 33 KAMPUNG
Minivan #ú AIR
Station Wawasan
Plaza 6665
›#

Sabah Extra #íJlnñ#Kemajuan To Sabah State
Rent # 51 Museum/Museum of
A Car ISHQOstorulaacsetmhpeeiniditMcaEDClole(isizv2qVai.lu5biislekleaamt(th(2i)o1.;05nk.5(m1Jkklm)nm;T))u;UarTpaAolnifdCtSviCnheaegenFbntSiSateurohulredcieMsKi(sek4eht(ikdylo5lmsir.(c51Ma)k.;5lmokr)mal);
‚ 6666Parks 10 KK Times
ï# Ý# Square

42 #ý

7 # To Grace Point (1.5km); # Kompleks 6
Sutera Harbour (2km); 9 Sadong
Tanjung Aru (4km); ‚
Tanjung Aru Railway (4km); Jaya
Airport (4.5km);
Borneo Authentic (11km)

ABCD

loincloths and feathers in Sabah, except There is also a small waterfall – Kiansom
maybe in the very deepest, remote interior. Waterfall (admissionRM1;hdawn-dusk) – about
The Rungus and Murut may live in long­ 400m beyond the cultural village, which
houses, but many of those longhouses have is easily accessible by private transport
satellite television and air-con, and they or on foot. The area around the cas­
hunt with guns, not blowpipes. cade lends itself well to swimming and

43

Kota Kinabalu 31 Centre Point Basement Food Sabah SKoigthatKsi&nnaaAbbcaatlliuuvities
Court ....................................................B4
æ Sights
1 Atkinson Clock Tower ........................... B3 32 Chili Vanilla .............................................A2
2 Central Market....................................... C3 El Centro ....................................... (see 38)
3 Night Market .......................................... B3
4 Signal Hill................................................ D2 33 Grazie ......................................................B5
5 Sunday Market ...................................... A2 34 Kedai Kopi Fatt Kee................................A2
35 Kohinoor .................................................B4
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
6 Adventure Alternative Borneo.............. A2 Moon Bell ...................................... (see 38)
7 Borneo Adventure ................................. A6 Nagisa ............................................(see 19)
8 Borneo Divers .........................................B1 36 Wisma Merdeka Food Court ................. A1
9 Borneo Nature Tours ............................ B6 37 Ya Kee Bah Kut Teh ...............................B2
10 Downbelow Marine & Wildlife
Adventures.......................................... A6 û Drinking
11 GogoSabah .............................................A1 38 El Centro .................................................A2
Riverbug/Traverse Tours............ (see 12) Shamrock ..................................... (see 35)
Scuba Junkie/River Junkie........... (see 11) Shenanigan's ................................ (see 35)
12 Sutera Harbour.......................................A1 39 Upperstar................................................C2

ÿ Sleeping ý Entertainment
13 Akinabalu Youth Hostel......................... A3 40 Bed ..........................................................B4
14 Borneo Backpackers............................. B2 41 Black World.............................................A2
15 Borneo Gaya Lodge............................... A2 Hunter's ........................................ (see 22)
16 Bunibon .................................................. B2 Suria Sabah .................................. (see 46)
17 Hotel Eden 54 .........................................B1 42 White Room ............................................A6
18 Hotel Sixty3.............................................B1
19 Hyatt Regency Kota Kinabalu............... C2 þ Shopping
20 Jesselton Hotel ...................................... B2 7-Eleven ........................................ (see 32)
21 Kinabalu Backpackers .......................... B2
22 Kinabalu Daya........................................ A2 43 Borneo Books.........................................A2
23 Klagan Hotel........................................... B4 44 Borneo Trading Post..............................B3
Le Hotel .........................................(see 23) 45 Milimewa Superstore.............................A2
24 Le Meridien Kota Kinabalu.................... B3 46 Suria Sabah Shopping Mall ................... D1
25 Lucy's Homestay................................... B2 47 Tong Hing Supermarket ........................ B1
Myne Hotel .................................... (see 23)
26 Rainforest Lodge ................................... A2 ï Information
27 Sarangnova Hotel.................................. A2 48 Australian Consulate ............................. B1
28 Summer Lodge ...................................... A3 49 British Consul .........................................A2
50 HSBC....................................................... B1
ú Eating 51 Indonesian Consulate ............................B6
29 Alu-Alu Cafe ............................................D1 52 Maybank ................................................. A1
30 Borneo 1945 Museum Kopitiam........... B2 53 Permai Polyclinic.................................... A1
54 Standard Chartered Bank ..................... B1

it’s a great place to cool off after a visit to ty of other animals as well, from tarsiers to
Mari Mari. Sumatran rhinos. Don’t miss the giant aviary
at the top of the hill, with its ominous warn­
Lok Kawi Wildlife Park ZOO ing sign ‘beware of attacking birds’.

(%765710; www.lokkawiwildlifepark.com; Jln Penam- It’s best to arrive by 9.50am at the latest –
pang; adult/child RM20/10; h9.30am-5.30pm, last feedings take place throughout the park at
entry at 4:30pm; p) If you’d like to check out 10am. After the various feedings, an inter­
the orangutans but won’t make it out to Sepi­ active show takes place at the stage around
lok or the Kinabatangan, a visit to this wild­ 11.15am everyday. After feeding time, most of
life park is highly recommended, especially the animals take their daily siesta – only the
for those with children in tow. There are plen­

44

humans are silly enough to stay out in the Che Sui Khor Moral
scorching midday sun.
Uplifting Society CHINESE TEMPLE
The 17B minibus goes to Lok Kawi (RM2).
Visitors with a private vehicle can access the (Jln Tuaran; p) About four minutes north of
park via the Papar–Penampang road or the KK, this complex is anchored by an 11-storey
Putatan–Papar road. Travel agents offer half- pagoda that shimmers in orange and green.
day tours, or you can hire a taxi, which will Tourists can’t enter the actual pagoda, but
cost around RM150, including a two-hour the friendly members of the society don’t
Sabah KS oigthatKsi&naAbcatliuvities wait. mind you poking around the rest of their li­
brary. The Society espouses believing in the
best Islam, Taoism, Buddhism and Christi­
Monsopiad Cultural Village MUSEUM anity have to offer. You can get here via the

(%774337; www.monsopiad.com; admission adult/ bus terminal at Wawasan Plaza going north
student/child RM75/50/free; h9am-5pm; p) On
the banks of Sungai Moyog, Monsopiad is on the Jln Tuaran route (RM3). To get home,
just stand outside the temple on the main
named after a legendary warrior and head- road and a minibus or regular bus will pick
hunter, whose direct descendants estab­
lished this private heritage centre in 1996. you up. A return taxi should cost around
RM20.
The highlight is the House of Skulls, which
supposedly contains the ancient crania of
Monsopiad’s unfortunate enemies, as well Puh Toh Tze

Buddhist Temple CHINESE TEMPLE

as artefacts illustrating native rituals from (Jln Tuaran; p) Also spelled ‘Poh Toh Tse’, this
the time when the bobolian (priest) was the temple is 20 minutes north of KK, at Mile
most important figure in the community. (Batu) 5.5. It’s quite impressive: a stone
Many tour companies include Monsopiad staircase-pavilion flanked by 10 Chinese dei­
on local itineraries. To get here independ­ ties leads up to a main temple complex dom­
ently, take a bus from central KK to Dong­ inated by Kwan Yin, Goddess of Mercy. A
gongon (RM1.50), where you can catch a Chinese-style reclining Buddha rests inside.
minivan to the cultural village (RM1). You You can to enter and wander around. The
can also take a taxi or charter a minivan di­ temple is on a small hill west of the main
rect from KK for around RM40. highway junction north; you can get here
by taking the Jln Tuaran bus again or, more
SKota Kinabalu easily, hire a taxi; a round-trip shouldn’t be
more than RM36.
Wetland Centre MUSEUM

(%246955; www.sabahwetlands.org; Jln Bukit Bendera Museum of Islamic Civilisation MUSEUM
Upper; adult/child RM10/5; h8am-6pm Tue-Sun; p) (%538234; admission incl in Sabah Museum ticket;
This spot encompasses the last 24 hectares of h9am-5pm Sat-Thu; p) This museum consists
a mangrove swamp that once stretched across of six galleries devoted to Muslim culture
what is now KK. A series of wooden walkways and history in Malaysia and beyond. The
leads into a wetland rife with fiddler crabs, five domes represent the holy Five Pillars of
mangrove crabs, mud lobsters, mudskippers, Islam. It’s in need of a facelift and an update,
skinks, turtles, water monitors and the ador­ but can fill up an hour or two of a boring
ably turd-like mangrove slug, among other afternoon.
swamp fauna (sadly, there are also plastic bot­
tles). For many, the big attraction is a stunning To get to the museum complex, catch a bus
variety of migra­tory birds, some from as far (RM1) along Jln Tunku Abdul Rahman and
away as Siberia. The walkway ends at a spot get off just before the mosque. Be warned:
that looks out over a flat marshscape that it’s a short but steep walk uphill to the mu­
would feel virgin were it not for the high rise seum. Bus 13 also goes right round past the
buildings behind it. Staff are cheerful but not Queen Elizabeth Hospital and stops near Jln
always that helpful. Muzium (look for the Sacred Heart Church).
To get here, head north on Jln Fuad Taxi fare will run between RM10 and RM15.

Stephens (the main road north out of town; City Mosque MOSQUE
in town it’s also called Jln KK Bypass) and
follow it as it curves around the coast. You’ll (off Jln Tun Fuad Stephens) Overlooking the
South China Sea, this mosque is built in clas­
then turn right at Jln Istidat and follow that sical style, and is far more attractive than
for about 1km; signs for the Wetland Centre the State Mosque in terms of setting and
will be on your right. design. Completed in 2000, it can hold up
to 12,000 worshippers. It can be entered by

45

non-Muslims outside regular prayer times, a great job of booking just about anything, Sabah KTotuarsK inabalu
but dress modestly (long trousers and arms anywhere in Sabah. It’s especially excellent
covered is a good rule of thumb, although for motorbike rentals – staff will help map
you may get away with just shoulders cov­ out some of the choicest areas for explora­
ered) and remove your shoes before enter­ tion in Sabah. It also offers car rentals and
ing. To get here, take bus 5A from Wawasan a serviced apartment, too. It’s a good go-to
Plaza going toward UMS (RM1.50). Just ask organisation for package tours, but can also
the conductor to drop you off outside the City help independent travellers out with logis­
Mosque after the Tanjung Lipat roundabout. tics, itineraries and information.

State Mosque MOSQUE oSticky Rice TOURS

(Jln Tunku Abdul Rahman) Sabah’s state mosque (%250588; www.stickyricetravel.com) The Sticky
is a perfect example of contemporary Ma­
lay Muslim architecture: all modernist fa­ Rice guys are extremely helpful, knowledg­
able about Borneo, and committed to natu­
cade and geometric angles. The building is ral immersion, community engagement and
south of the city centre past the Kampung
Air stilt village, not far from the Sabah Mu­ independent travel.

seum; you’ll see the striped minaret and oAdventure
chevronned dome on your way to or from
the airport. Non-Muslim visitors are allowed Alternative Borneo NATURE

inside, but dress appropriately. (Map p42; %019-802 0549; www.adventurealt
ernativeborneo.com; 97 Jln Gaya) Adventure Al­
ternative specialises in getting Sabah visi­
Tanjung Aru BEACH tors off the beaten/package tour path, and is

This pretty sweep of sand begins around an excellent resource for independent trav­
the Shangri-La’s Tanjung Aru Resort and
stretches south to the airport. Tanjung Aru is ellers, especially those who are interested in
sustainable and responsible tourism.
a locals’ beach, full of picnic spots, swoony-
eyed couples and much familial goodwill.
Food stalls are plentiful, most closing up a Bike Borneo BICYCLE RENTAL

bit after dark, which reminds us: sunsets (%484734; www.bikeborneo.com; City Mall,Jln Lin-
tas, Kota Kinabalu; 1-day tours from RM245) Our
here are pretty perfect. We would advise favourite means of getting around Sabah on
against swimming here; the water may look two wheels (with no motor) is mountain bik­
nice, and some locals may tell you it’s fine, ing, and the guys at Fieldskills Adventures,
but others claim it’s tainted by run-off from who run Bike Borneo, are the experts on
KK and nearby water villages. the topic. They run their mountain biking
activities largely out of Tuaran; packages in­
Orchid De Villa FARM clude a day ride in the vicinity of town that

(%380611;www.orchid-de-villa.com.my;JlnKiansom; crosses three (count ‘em) swinging bridges
h8am-5pm; p) If you’re just as crazy about
flora as fauna, head to this farm, about 3 km and a four-day cycling adventure across the
foothills of Mt Kinabalu.
from central KK, along the road to Penam­
pang. The farm specialises in rare Bornean Riverbug/Traverse Tours SIGHTS

orchids, hybrid orchids, cacti and herbal (Map p42; %260501; www.traversetours.com; Lot
227, Wisma Sabah, Jln Tun Fuad Stephens) An ex­
plants. cellent and forward-thinking operator that

T Tours has a wide variety of tours across Sabah. It
makes admirable efforts to engage in sus­
KK has a huge number of tour companies, tainable travel practices.
enough to suit every taste and budget.
Head to Wisma Sabah – this office build­ Fieldskills Adventures ADVENTURE TOUR
ing is full of agents and operators. We have
highlighted three companies that specialise (%484734; fieldskills.com.my; City Mall, Jln Lintas)
in off-the-beaten-track and/or ecotourism If you’re into outdoor activities and ad­
activities. venture, get in touch with these guys. This
outfit leads well-regarded cycling, rock
climbing, trekking and diving trips across
oGogoSabah Sabah.
SIGHTS

(Map p42; %316385, 317385; www.gogosabah.com; Borneo Adventure ADVENTURE TOUR
Lot G-4, ground fl, Wisma Sabah, Jln Tun Razak)
Gogo is a fantastic tour company that does (Map p42; %486800; www.borneoadventure.com;
Block E-27-3A, Signature Office, KK Times Square)

46

Award-winning Sarawak-based company ­southwest Sabah aimed at the Western
with very professional staff, imaginative back­packer (and flashpacker) crowd.
sightseeing and activity itineraries and a
genuine interest in local people and the Sutera Harbour CLIMBING
environment.
(Sutera Sanctuary Lodges; Map p42; %308914/5;
www.suteraharbour.com; ground fl, Lot G15, Wisma
Sabah, Jln Haji Saman) Sutera runs a lot of the
Borneo Authentic BOAT TOUR tourism activities in Sabah, and has a mo­
nopoly on accommodation within the Mt
Sabah KS oleteapKiinngabalu (%773066; www.borneo-authentic.com; Lot 3, 1st fl, Kinabalu ark. Make this your first stop in
Putatan Point, Jln JKR) A friendly operation of­ KK if you’re planning to climb Kinabalu and
fering a variety of package tours including didn’t book your bed in advance.
day-trip cruises on the Sungai Klias.
4 Sleeping
Equator Adventure Tours CULTURAL TOUR
Check out the SabahBackpackerOper­ators
(%766351, 013-889 9535; http://equator-adventure. Association (SBA; www.sabahbackpackers.com)
com) Offers plenty of nature and adventure which was set up in an effort to help shoe­
tours, as well as the Hajah Halimah Tradi­ string travellers in the region. Check out its
tional cooking course (RM135), one of the website for discount deals on accommoda­
few cooking courses currently offered in tion and tours. KK’s midrange options seem
Sabah. Participants check out the local fresh to be sliding towards either end of the budget
and wet markets and prepare a meal in a spectrum. Although backpacker hangouts
Malaysian kitchen with an English-speaking and top-end treats are in great proliferation,
guide. Its head office is in Putatan, 9km east there are still several spots around town suit­
of the city centre. ing those Goldilockses out there.

Borneo Divers DIVING

(Map p42; %222226; www.borneodivers.net; 9th fl,
Menara Jubili, 53 Jln Gaya) This is the longest-
established Borneo dive outfit; it can ar­ oSarangnova Hotel HOTEL $$
range courses and dives just about anywhere (Map p42; %233750; www.sarangnova.com; 98 Jln
and has its own dive shop. It’s possible to get Gaya; s/d from RM120/170) It’s hard not to miss
discounted rates as a walk-in. this fascinating hotel; there’s a conceptual,
woodsy slat fixture attached to the front.
Downbelow Marine & The rooms are just as distinctive as the exte­

Wildlife Adventures DIVING rior, seeing as they’re themed after Borneo’s

(Map p42; %012-866 1935; www.divedownbelow. birds. No, no feathers on the walls or any­
com; Lot 67 & 68, 5th fl, KK Time Square Block)
A well-respected dive outfit with a PADI thing, but the attractively minimalist decor
is offset by gallery-style portraits of local
Centre on Pulau Gaya that can arrange all avian life; this includes some picture com­
kinds of travel packages across Borneo.
positions that are downright Warhol-ian.
For being a little different, and still offering
Borneo Eco Tours SIGHTS superlative service in all the ways that count

(%438300; www.borneoecotours.com; Pusat Perin- (helpful staff, central location), we give the
dustrian Kolombong Jaya, Mile 5.5 Jln Kolombong)
This is a place with a good reputation, ar­ Sarangnova two beaks up.

ranging tours throughout Malaysian Borneo, Hotel Eden 54 BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
including travel to the Kinabatangan area.
(Map p42; %266054; www.eden54.com; 54 Jln Gaya;
r RM119-179; aW) This smart choice would
Borneo Nature Tours NATURE likely cost five times what it does were it

(Map p42; %267637; www.borneonaturetours.com; plopped in the West. Fortunately this Eden’s
Block D, Lot 10, Kompleks Sadong Jaya, Ikan Juara 4)
A professional and knowledgeable operation contrasting solid dark and light colours, geo­
metric design sensibility and immaculate
that manages bookings for Danum Valley’s furniture have turned up in Kota Kinabalu.
Borneo Rainforest Lodge. Its office building
is on the corner near a canal. A fine choice for flashpackers, couples, even
families. One warning: the cheapest rooms
Scuba Junkie/River Junkie DIVING, RAFTING are windowless and should be avoided.
(Map p42; %255816; www.scuba-junkie.com;
ground fl, Lot G7, Wisma Sabah, Jln Haji Saman) Rainforest Lodge HOTEL $$
Runs diving trips in the Semporna Archi­ (Map p42; %258228; www.rainforestlodgekk.com;
pelago and white-water rafting trips in Jln Pantai; dm/s/d/ste from RM40/115/135/165;

47

aiW) Located in the swinging centre of Jesselton Hotel HOTEL $$$
the ‘Beach Street’ complex, the Rainforest is (Map p42; %223333; www.jesseltonhotel.com; 69
all of a stairward stumble from some of KK’s Jln Gaya; r/ste from RM180/450; aW) The old­
best nightlife. Rooms are refreshingly chic, a est hotel in KK doesn’t need to manufacture
nice mix of modern and Sabah-tribal style, character – it fairly drips it, in a dignified
and many have cool balconies that look onto if dated way. Mock-colonial wood and mar­
the Beach St parade below. Just be warned: ble make you want to don black-tie formal
it gets loud at night. clothes, and the single suite even has its Sabah KS oleteapKiinngabalu
own fishpond. There’s also a very good res­
Hotel Sixty3 HOTEL $$ taurant, coffee shop, business centre and red
(Map p42; %212663; www.hotelsixty3.com; Jln
Gaya 63; r from RM190; aW) This smart hotel London cab to shuttle you to the airport.

offers business-class standard accommo­ Kinabalu Daya HOTEL $$
(Map p42; %240000; www.kkdayahotel.com; Lot
dation, with chilly air-con, flat-screen TVs 3-4, Block 9, Jln Pantai; r/ste incl breakfast from
and big soft beds, all in the heart of KK.
The rooms, with their clean white lines and RM140/270; aW) Oddly angled hallways and
geometric accents, are popular with families strangely placed lifts give Kinabalu Daya
and travellers needing a little pampering. a certain ‘10-year-old’s-Lego-project’ vibe.
Nevertheless, tons of tourists swear by this
Le Meridien Kota Kinabalu HOTEL $$$ midrange stalwart – and justifiably so – it’s
(Map p42; %322222; www.starwoodhotels.com; Jln
Tun Fuad Stephens; r from RM300; paWs) ‘If in the centre of the action, the Best Western
branding ensures a certain amount of famil­
you can’t undercut ‘em, outclass ‘em’ seems iar comfort, and many rooms actually exude
to be the motto at KK’s most central five-star
venture, which just reeks of luxury, from the a stylish, boutique chic.

incredible views from the pool deck to the Akinabalu Youth Hostel HOSTEL $
(Map p42; %272188; www.akinabaluyh.com/; Lot
flat-screen TVs and DVD players. The eye- 133, Jln Gaya; dm/r incl breakfast from RM22/60;
watering prices come down a little in low
season, and may even get as low as RM200 aW) Friendly staff, fuchsia accent walls and
if you catch the right discounts. trickling Zen fountains make this a solid op­
tion among KK’s hostels, particularly if you
Klagan Hotel HOTEL $$ find a quiet time to take advantage of the
(Map p42; %488908; www.theklagan.com/; Block
D, Warisan Square, Jln Tun Fuad Stephens; r RM180- gratis internet and DVDs. Accommodation
is mostly in basic four-bed rooms, with win­
260; aW) Funky molded recliners and bright dows facing an interior hallway.
yellows and reds in the superior rooms
make this midrange option a cut above the
Lucy’s Homestay HOSTEL $
(Backpacker’s Lodge; Map p42; %261495; lucyhome
competition. stay.go-2.net; Lot 25, Lg Dewan, Australia Pl; dm/s/d

Le Hotel HOTEL $$ incl breakfast RM28/45/50; W) Lucy’s is one of
(Map p42; %319696; www.lehotel.com.my; Block B,
3rd fl, Warisan Sq, Jln Tun Fuad Stephens; r RM120- the oldest of the old school hostels in Aus­
tralia Pl. There’s loads of charm, with wooden
198; aW) Rooms at the Le are a little small- walls smothered in stickers, business cards
ish, but there’s a cool blue colour scheme
and midrange amenities, plus nice views of and crinkled photographs. It may not suit if
you’re a party person or want cushy extras,
the waterfront at the higher end of the price and we get the sense Lucy is a bit more moth­
scale.
erly to women than male guests.

Summer Lodge HOSTEL $ Hyatt Regency Kota Kinabalu HOTEL $$$
(Map p42; %244499; www.summerlodge.com.my; (Map p42; %221234; http://kinabalu.regency.
Lot 120, Jln Gaya; dm/d RM28/70; aW) Summer hyatt.com; Jln Datuk Salleh Sulong; r from RM350;
Lodge feels like a bed factory, but it’s got paWs) Located in the city centre, this
that social vibe backpackers adore – ‘How branch of the Hyatt chain is all corporate
long have you been travelling? Where did glitz – a good spot to take a businessman for
you come from/where are you going? Isn’t lunch while enjoying impressive views out
it funny when foreigners do that thing they of a top-storey suite. Rooms are done up in
do? Fancy a drink?’ The answer to the last warm earth tones and packed with ameni­
question is easily solved – the Beach St bar ties, including quite possibly the best selec­
complex is just below. tion of cable-TV channels in the city.

48

Shangri-La’s Tanjung Aru to the suburbs if you’re looking for some
truly unique local fare.
Resort & Spa RESORT $$$
(STAR; %327888; www.shangri-la.com/kotakinaba
lu/tanjungaruresort; Tanjung Aru; r from RM550; CITY CENTRE

paWs) The Shangri-La is a good choice for oMoon Bell CHINESE $$
those who want to combine the attractions of
Kota Kinabalu with the features of a tropical (Map p42; %019-861 1605; 33 Jln Haji Saman;
mains RM15-35; h11am-9pm, closed Mon; a)
Sabah KE aotianKginabalu resort. It’s a sprawling complex, dotted with Never had Xinjiang cuisine? This is the food
swaying palms and metal gongs, located in
the Tanjung Aru area about 3km south of of China’s northwest frontier: spicy, rich
and meaty, and damned delicious anytime
the city centre. Dozens of uniformed staff are of day. Moon Bell, run by a superlatively
constantly on hand to respond to your every
whim. friendly Chinese granny, blows us away with
spicy eggplant fried in a sweet, caramelized
laquer of dark sauce, gamey roast lamb,
Borneo Gaya Lodge HOSTEL $ crispy-skinned duck and hearty clay hotpots.
(Map p42; %242477; www.borneogayalodge.com;
78 Jln Gaya; dm/d from RM25/65; aW) A typi­ It’s best to come here with a big group and
eat family-style, just as all the locals do.
cal high-volume hostel. Staff are a peach,
and will help organise nearly anything, and
you’re as centrally located in KK as can be. oAlu-Alu Cafe SEAFOOD $$
(Map p42; Jesselton Point; mains from RM10-30;
Myne Hotel HOTEL $$$ h10:30am-2:30pm & 6:30am-10pm; a) Techni­
(Map p42; %448787; http://hotel.myne.com.my; cally part of the Gayana Eco Resort, Alu-Alu
Lot 21, Warisan Sq; r/ste from RM270/430; aW) is a delicious restaurant that sources its
It might be located within a mall, but the ­ingredients from Borneo Eco-Fish, an or­
Myne, with its deep red and gold accents ganisation dedicated to harvesting and dis­
and brass fixtures, feels as gaudy as a tributing seafood from sustainable sources –
chandelier. As high-end spots go, this is an no shark fin here. Besides having a bit of a
executive-class kind of place, lacking the m­ oral mission, Alu-Alu is legitimately deli­
space of a resort but making up for it with a cious. It takes the Chinese seafood concept
more central location. to new levels – lightly breading fish chunks
and serving them drowned in a mouth-­
Borneo Backpackers HOSTEL $ watering buttermilk sauce, or simmering
(Map p42; %234009; www.borneobackpackers. amid diced chilies. Even the vegetables, sim­
com; 24 Lg Dewan, Australia Pl; dm/s/d incl break- ply steamed with a side of pungent garlic,
fast from RM20/40/60; aW) This long-running are a main event as opposed to an after­
backpackers is a bit cramped, but it’s very thought.
popular, especially with younger travellers.

Bunibon HOSTEL $ Ya Kee Bah Kut Teh CHINESE $
(Map p42; %221192; 74 Jln Gaya; mains from RM5;
(Map p42; %210801; www.bunibonlodge.com/; h4pm-11pm) Kosher and halal readers need
Lot 21, Lorong Dewan; dm/s/d from RM25/50/68;
aW) An attractive, friendly hostel with a not apply because this spot is all about the
pork. Pork, pork, pork, in herbal soup form
social vibe and surprisingly nice private (ie Bah Kut The). Fatty pork. Pork ribs. Pork
doubles.
belly. Pork with ginger and chillies. Pork
offal. With all apologies to Babe, we gotta
Kinabalu Backpackers HOSTEL $ highly recommend this delicious option.
(Map p42; %253385; www.kinabalubackpackers.
com; Lot 4,Lorong Dewan; dm/s/d from RM25/55/68;
aW) A bit bare, but cheap, cheerful and Grazie ITALIAN $$
(Map p42; %019-821 6936; ground fl, Wawasan
clean. It can organise onward travel and tours. Plaza; mains from RM17; hnoon-3pm Fri-Sun, noon-

5 Eating 6pm Mon-Thu; a) KK is chock-full of Italian
places, but Grazie, run by Italian expat Sal­
KK is one of the few cities in Borneo with an vatore Marcello, tops them all handily. Many
eating scene diverse enough to refresh the ingredients are imported (including a fine
noodle-jaded palate. Besides the ubiquitous shot of grappa we finished our meal with);
Chinese kedai kopi (coffee shops) and Malay the pizza is thin crust and divine; the pasta
halal restaurants, you’ll find plenty of inter­ and other mains sent from on high. Grazie,
esting options around the city centre – head grazie indeed.


Click to View FlipBook Version