The Middles Ages

CONTENT

Economic Overview Sir James Chapman ___________________________Pa
The Introduction of Feudalism___________________________________Pa
Social Structure _____________________________________________Pag
The Queen of Two Crowns____________________________________ Page
Technological Events _________________________________________ Pag
Rouge for Beauty Modern Lady _________________________________ Pag
The Moveable Printing Press ____________________________________Pag
Literacy of culture__________________________________________ Page 1
Integral Decorative__________________________________________Page
The development of our decorations ______________________________Pag
What's the trend____________________________________________Page

2 | THE RUSTIC MAGAZINE

age 2
age 3
ge 4-5
e 6-7
ge 8,9
ge 10
ge 11
12-13
14-15
ge 16
18-19

THE RUSTIC MAGAZINE | 3

Economic Overview
Sir JamewsitCh hapman

Written by
Walter Stringfellow
Published in 1251

Economist Sir James Chapman who has worked for the King for fifteen years has taken the time to sit
down with me quickly and map out the Rise and fall of the Economy over the last 600 years.
Beginning with the silk road which was established by 200 B.C.E this series of land and sea trade
routes that travel from China to the Mediterranean to the south of France which allowed access to
gold spices and plants as well as technologies ideas that would have been unattainable previously.
After the fall of Rome, many formerly thriving urban
centers were severely de-populated causing
long-distance trade routes to shrink to a shadow of
what they had been. As the economy was not thriving
it pushed people to go back to rural living before the
luxuries of the trade route had come along.
During the 10th and 11th centuries, urban life was
revived and was again seen as desirable. There had
been an upturn in agriculture, manufacturing of
goods, in trade, this allowed the major cities to
become lively centers again that attracted an
increased population. Now that these residents had
the opportunity to become more wealthy merchants
would often dress in styles worn by the nobility, this
was something that the king disapproved of.
As it was a pleasure to sit down
with Sir James
Chapman I feel as though the
economy will only
continue to increase its success
and enrich our lives to come.

2 | ELLE

The introduction of
Feudalism

Written by
Thomas Tait
Punlished in 912
As a society, we are considering the development of this idea of feudalism and I think we all have a few questions
about it like What is it? What are its benefits? I have had the opportunity to speak with a few Lords and Vassals and
understand the benefits that might come from the adaptation of feudalism.
First, what is it?
Feudalism: is going to be a political and economic system that will have a positive impact on the everyday lives of
all citizens
Benefits
“Feudalism will bring together two powerful groups: lords and vassals. The lords give vassals land in return for
military and other services.”
“Feudalism is going to help protect communities from the violence and warfare that has broken out after the fall of
Rome.”
“Feudalism will help restore trade. Lords repaired bridges and roads. knights will arrest bandits, enforce the law,
and make it safe to travel on roads.”
“Feudal ceremonies, oaths, and contracts will be required to ensure that lords and vassals are faithful and they ca-
rry out their duties to each other.”
“Feudalism will not allow one person or organization to become too powerful. Power will be shared among many
people and groups.”
Reading through all of the quotes provided by both Lords and Vassals they seem to have a positive approach to this
idea and although I am no expert in politics I am excited to see where we will go with the adaptation of this new
idea.

ELLE| 3

SOCIAL STRUCTURE

An Expose on Byzantine’s past Social Structure and the Feudal system
Sweeps Across Europe.

Written by:
Leontinus Akropolites
Last century we saw a turn of events as our social structure shifted and was reformed. In this article,
I will explain our previous and current social structure. I will also shed light on the horrific lives of the
poor.
Prior to the Feudal System our society had a four tier social structure. The emperor had all the power
and they ruled both the land and they were the head of the church. Empresses could rule the empire
alone or they could be a regent for their son if they were a minor. Below the Emperor was the civil
service and nobility. The civil service helped with all the administrative duties of the empire. For
example they collected taxes, administered justice, built armies and participated in warfare. The no-
bility and the civil service were considered wealthy. Education was important to them. They ensured
that their sons had the best education possible as they often hired many tutors for them.The nobility
also helped govern the empire and they assisted with the economics of the empire. The next tier of
people were merchants, farmers and craftsmen. The last tier consisted of peasants and slaves. Slaves
were either captives from other empires or they were citizens who sold themselves to survive.
It is important to note that one’s social status was not determined by bloodline instead it was de-
termined by wealth. Therefore, it was possible for people to climb the social ladder if they worked
hard. Furthermore, there were sumptuary laws, but people wore what they could afford. For exam-
ple, certain trims, embellishments and fabrics like silk were only accessible to the rich due to the
high price point. Below is a graphic of the various social classes between the periods of 330-900

4 | ELLE

Now, I will explain our current social system
which is known as the feudal system. The
feudal system is ideal because of its effective-
ness. All the land is owned by the king and it
makes for an organized government and flow
of assets. The feudal system was developed
in Byzantine for protection as the Carolingian
empire had collapsed in 900. In the same year,
France adopted the system from the Normans.
It was also introduced into England after the
attack of William I in 1066.The highest rank of
the feudal system is the feudal king. The king
is the supreme lord and owns all the land in
the kingdom. The king grants land called fiefs
to the feudal lords/Barons. The feudal lords
must take an oath of fealty to the king promi-
sing that they will take care of the land and
that they will provide armies for the king. In
order to keep their promise feudal lords grant
land to knights (considered vessels of the lords)
who promise to go to battle if need be. Lords
also give knights serfs who work the land and
provide food and services to knights. Serfs also
known as Villeins are people who have lost
their freedom because an ancestor surrendered
their freedom and their families for protection
from the lord. Below is an illustration of the
Feudal system.

Although the feudal system may benefit many for the poor, their lives
do not change. They are still at the bottom of the hierarchy and their
living conditions are poor. Below is an example of the homes the pea-
sants live in. As you can see their homes are very small. They hardly
have any furniture and they struggle to have the bare necessities of
life.I am glad that I do not have to sleep in this horrible house. Life
in the castle is much better. The castle walls are extremely thick and
they protect me. Although the castle is often buzzing with people it is
a much better environment to live in.
Women in our society have very little power. The feudal system does not benefit them in any way. Peasant women must
produce food and clothing for her family. She must also take care of her children. Even the ladies of the castles do not have
much power. They are the property of their fathers and husbands. However, they do have power over their female servants.
Hopefully you learned more about the progression of the social structure of our society, the feudal system and how it may
be popular in Europe, but it does not benefit all.

ELLE| 5

“The Queen of
Two Crowns”

An Interview with Eleanor of Aquitaine

Freedom at last for Eleanor of Aquitaine as her son,
Lionheart Richard, unties her shackles! We caught up
with Eleanor to discuss her adventurous life story and
discuss what is next for her.
I: Eleanor, let’s start at the beginning please tell us about your
upbringing.
E:Sure! I was born in 1122 and my father was Willian X, Duke
of Aquitaine. Growing up I had a good education. I always
loved reading and I enjoyed philosophy and learning different
languages. When I was fifteen years old my father fell ill and
unfortunately passed away.

I: That must have been devastating. How were you able to get through that?

E:Yes, it was. I really did not even have the time to process anything as I was shipped off to northern France to marry Louis
VII. I was only 17 years old when I married Louis and it was all such a shock.

I: How different was northern France compared to where you grew up?

E:Well it was definitely a lot colder. When the castle was getting remodeled I suggested we add some sort of heater so that I
could keep warm. We called it a fireplace and crazily my invention soon spread to many households in France.

I:Wow you are such a great inventor! What was life like with I: Did any good come out of your marriage to Louis?
Louis?
E: We were both quite young, our fathers had just died and we
E: It was definitely difficult at times. We were crowned king were both thrown onto the throne. He was respectful to me,
and queen only a year after we were married on Christmas but I think the timing of our marriage was not right. We have
Day in 1137. Ruling was not easy for Louis. He had many two lovely daughters together, Marie and Alix whom I love
tensions with the Pope in Rome at the time and he often dearly.
had disagreements with the Court Theobald of Champagne I: I heard that it was quite difficult for you to start a family.
(which were his own vessels). These eventually lead to con-
flict and the horrific massacre of Vitry town. E: Yes, we did not have children until 7 years after we were

I: That must have been hard. Did his responsibilities as king married. I was very worried and stressed. I had to meet with
affect your relationship with him? St. Bernard de Clairvaux who was the most highly regarded
man in the church at the time and I begged him for his inter-
E: Yes, absolutely! Louis wanted to redeem himself so he cession with God. Luckily all the prayers were answered and a
agreed to meet the pope for a crusade. He wanted to make year later I gave birth to Marie.
a wrong, right, but the long journey was horrendous. Louis
and I could not get along. We fought so much during that
trip and grew apart. That’s why I requested an annulment. I
was very worried it would get declined. I could not bear sta-
ying and living with him any longer. Luckily we received our
annulment in 1152 on the grounds of consanguinity, which
means we are closely related by blood.

8 | ELLE

I:From my understanding you remarried very recently after your
annulment to Louis VII.
E: Yes, I did. There was a lot of pressure on me to choose a French
nobleman to marry, but I married Plantagenet, Court of Anjou
and Duke of Normandy. Two years later I was crowned queen
once again, but this time I was queen of England.
I: There are rumours that you had an affair with King Henry’s
father. Would you like to speak to that?
E: No, I do not wish to comment on that. However, Henry and I
argued a lot. It is no secret that he had many infidelities. We
eventually separated in 1167.
I: You had 8 children with him correct?
E: Yes I did. William, Henry, Richard, Matilda,Geoffrey,Eleanor,-
Joanna and John. They are all wonderful!
I: What was your life like after the end of your second marriage?
E: Well, I went to Poitiers and was a mistress of my own land. I had learned my lesson to not jump into another marriage.
My daughter, Marie and I created a court. It was actually quite famous. I believe people called it the Court of Love. We
encouraged a culture of chivalry. Many artists and poets travelled to visit our court. It was really quite spectacular! I loved
interacting with all the visitors. We created our own subculture with new types of literature and art!
I: Wow that sounds like such a neat atmosphere! I wish I could have visited it.
E: Yes, I really do miss that place. Unfortunately, in 1173 my son Henry wanted to seize the crown from his father Henry.
He even travelled to France to plot against him. I was arrested and imprisoned for treason [starts to tear up]. They thought
I had put him up to it. I spent sixteen years travelling between various castles and strongholds. It was horrible!
I:I can only imagine the hardships you went through.
E:My son Henry died in 1183 and he begged for my release. In 1184 I was partially released as I was forced to join King
Henry’s household. I even had to resume my duties as queen. This was better than prison, but I was still not free.
I: It must have been hard having to live with your estranged husband.
E: It was at times, but as you know Henry II just died. My son Richard just took the throne and he has now restored my full
freedom. I am so grateful and overjoyed. I know Richard will leave a great legacy behind.
I: I understand that you are about to have great power.
E: Yes! I am glad to announce that I will be the regent for my son as he goes on a crusade. I know that I am prepared for
this position and I will make sure to do my very best!
I:That’s amazing! We are so happy for you. It looks like all your hardships are finally paying off. Here’s to a better future!
Editor's Note:
Shortly after this interview King Richard died during his crusade. Therefore, Elanore’s son (Richard’s younger brother) John
took the throne.

ELLE| 7

Technological Events

Written by Constantine Akropolites
Published in 695

The technological events that have happened throughout the 6th century have been quite sig-
nificant. The secrets of silk production are being smuggled out of China and into Byzantium.
Silk fabric production is a rather secretive process, which originated first in China and then la-
ter in Korea and Japan. The raw silk fibers are being transported through trade routes in short
supply. A pair of monks brought the sericulture secret to emperor Justinian of Byzantium with
the use of a hollowed-out bamboo pole. The monks smuggle the silkworm eggs out of China
in these bamboo poles, and learn how to breed, feed, and raise the silkworms. The Byzantines
now produce silk for the western world. The emperor charges very high prices for the silk, me-
aning only the wealthiest Europeans can afford this luxurious fabric.

8 | ELLE

Monks presenting the silk worms to Emperor Justinian

ELLE| 9



TheMoveablePrinngPress
AnInvenonbyJohannGutenberg

Literacy of Cu

The change of the begining

Emperor Constantine moved the capital of the Roman Empire to Byzantium, which they renamed Constantino-
ple, signaling the decline of Rome and the western portion of the empire.
The city of Constantinople was a center Greek and Roman culture.
Which meant writings and works of art were actively preserved. However, they were destroyed when the cru-
saders and the Turks sacked the city. Fortunately, other artifacts were saved or even carried away by raiders to
other places.
Holy Wisdom was constructed by the Emperor Justinian and represented the finest example of Byzantine
architecture.
I remember the interior was decorated with gold leaf, colored marble, glass, and colored mosaics, it was
beautiful.
Shoes with an open construction and cut out of either cloth silk or leather with decorations of stones, pearls,
enameled metal, embroidery, and cutwork were popular.

12 | ELLE

ulture

However, Rome was vulnerable to attack and was sac-
ked in 410 and several times later in the century.
Despite attacks, fortunately certain elements of Ro-
man civilization and culture survived.
The Christian church became the official state church
of the Roman Empire. Christianity became the official
state religion.
Monastery libraries preserved Christian and earlier
Greek and Roman classical literature, which otherwi-
se would have been lost forever.
With the decline in living standards and the decrease
in wealth, works of art were rarely
commissioned, except for those intended for the
church. Especially throughout the Byzantine Empire,
we thrived in part because it was based on an efficient
bureaucracy and sound economy. Although trade and
urban life almost ceased in the west, cities and com-
merce flourished in the Byzantine Empire.

ELLE| 13

Integral Decorative

Shoes with an open construction I wore shoes that were similar to those of men, most
and cut out of either cloth silk or women did. Women also wore open slippers with bands
leather with decorations of stones, across the ankle,
pearls, enameled metal, embroi- similar to those worn by some clergymen.
dery, and cutwork were popular. Clogs were wooden platforms that raised shoes out of
I also heard red apparently was a the water,
favored color for empresses and mud, or snow. These were placed over leather shoes.
their retinue. Later on, leg wrapping from strips of cloth perhaps
Most men seem to have worn taken from worn-out garments.
boots, which ended just below Shoes and boots, much like those of the previous cen-
the calf and some decorated styles tury continued in use. Just like the pointed shoes that
were worn by the wealthy. Military had been worn in the 10th century, and now some
figures from the early Byzantine upper-class men now adopted shoes with very long
Empire wore Roman-like, open-to- points.
ed boots then later they adopted
closed boots.
Hose were made of woven fabric,
cut and sewn to fit the leg, ending
either at the knee or thigh.
Leg bandages also called gaiters,
were strips of linen or wool wra-
pped around the leg to the knee
and worn either over the hose or
alone.

14 | ELLE

Jewelry is an integral part of the dress.
Empresses wore wide, jeweled collars over the paluda-
mentum or at the neck of the dress.
Some other important items of jewelry included; pins,earrings, bracelets, rings, and other
types of necklaces.
Written records and a few visual depictions indicate wealthy women wore headbands
(circlets) of gold and neck bands of beads, bracelets, rings, and earrings. Jeweled belts
(often called girdles) are sometimes depicted in art.

ELLE| 15

The Development of
our Decorations

Accessories such as
headsets, footwear and
jewelry are a big part of

our lives!

Emperors also wore jeweled crowns, often with
suspended strings of pearls. He is bearded as well, unlike

earlier men who tended to be clean shaven.

Here is the space to add the description of the image you From the 4th to 10th centuries, men tended
place below/above bigger.Qui ad es id quunt endandebis to be clean shaven. However later on, men
most likely had beards as well. Men wore
“Phrygian”. “Phrygian” is like bonnet like
style; or even just a conical cap. They even
would wear a high hat with an upstanding
brim surrounding a high-crowned turban; a
smooth, close-fitting crown, or a soft crown
with a tassel at the back.

One of the popular styles is Phrygian bonnet
styles, they were the predominant styles
of head coverings. Hats with small, round
brims and peaked crowns were depicted on
Jewish men as early as the 11th century in
works of art.

On the other hand I was a Women, I wore
hair parted in the center, soft waves
framing the face, If hair was not covered,
I would always have my hair pulled to the
back or knotted on. However, when covering
hair we used to cover it with veils and tur-
ban like hats in the 4th to the 12th century.

For empresses set their royal crowns on top
of the hat or on top of their own hair. I be-
lieve the Royal crowns were heavily jeweled
diadems with pendant strings of pearls.

16 | ELLE

Young girls wore their hair loose and uncovered. Unlike older women who covered their
hair with a veil, which was pulled around the face under the chin, or was open, hanging close to the sides of
the face and ending about mid-chest. The rich upper class had silk or fine linen veils while people in the lower
classes used coarser linen or wool.
By the 12th century, most men were bearded and had moustaches. Hair varied in length but usually did not
fall below the shoulder. However, from my belief Clergymen railed against the hairstyles adopted by some
men who grew their hair long and had small, clipped, and pointed beards. Which led to the critics often
viewing these men as effeminate.
I saw multiple outdoor men who wore hoods or small round hats that had a small stem on the top. The coif
was popular for outdoor men; a cap that tied under the chin and was similar to a modern bonnet in shape.

Headset and hairstyles

ELLE| 17

Whats the Trend?

Frankish Noblewoman

She wears an embroidered
mantle over a bliaud, and chains

Nobleman

He is wearing a mantle over
an embroidered tunic, cross-
gartered stocking, and soft

leather shoes

Fashio
been be
possibly

Desig

Brides Look

A robe of brocaded silk, shot with gold
threads. The panel down the front has

metallic spangles and she carries a
bouquet of flowers.

18 | ELLE

THE BEST FASHIONS IN TOWN

Italian Lady

This lady wears an embroidered and
jeweled mande over her head and
shoulders. Her robe is brocaded silk
with gloves and embroidered silk

on has never
etter and could
never be better

gner Albert Rodcloth

Hunter Townswoman

He wears a short tunic with She is carrying a shoulder scarf
batwing sleeves. Bloused fabric she wears a belted bliaud with
at his waist covers a belt with dolman sleeves. Her headrail is

knitted stockings, low-cut wrapped like a nurban.
leather shoes, and a felt hat.
A wicker arrow quiver hangs ELLE| 19
from his waist and he holds a

longbow.



December The Legend o
1499
Robin
A Look Back at the Past Two Hood
Centeries 1300-1500 A.D

Statistics of the

Great Famine

& Black Plague

The 100 Years
War Recap �-

Social
Structure

1 Pound
Display Until January 1

9 771234 567003

CONTENT

Statistics of the Great Famine and the Black Plauge__________________Page
Goodman of Paris Advertisement _________________________________Pa
The 100 years war recap_________________________________________ P
Social Structure ______________________________________________Pag
Technological Events __________________________________________Pag
The Legend of Robin Hood____________________________________Page
Vaulables________________________________________________Pages 1
14th Century________________________________________________ Pag
15th Century________________________________________________ Pag

2 | THE RUSTIC MAGAZINE

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THE RUSTIC MAGAZINE | 3

Statistics of the Great F
and the Black Plag

THE GREAT FAMINE

Local famines began when the winter months
started to become unusually severe and rainy
summers began to cause issues with livestock
and crops. The grain failing to mature and the
flooding of fields lead to a particularly disas-
trous period in time. As well look back on this
period it should be understood the magnitude
that this has had on the European economy.
Deaths- 10% of Europe’s population
Duration- 1315-1317

Although Europe did not fully recover
until 1322
Caused From- Severe weather

1 | ELLE

Famine
gue
Written By
Beatrice Hurst
Published in 1430

THE BLACK PLAGUE

As the Black Plague ripped through the silk
road it terminated all man in its path creating
a devastating loss to the economy. As now the
plague is over it has been under control for a
while the final numbers have come in and we
are now able to see the damage this horrible
disease caused.
Deaths- 75,000,000 to 20,000,000
Location- Eurasia and North Africa, peaking in
Europe
Duration- 1347 to 1351
Caused From- the bacterium Yersinia pestis

ELLE| 27

ELLE| 3

The 100 Years War Recap

The Hundred Years’ War was fought between France and England during the late Middle Ages. It lasted from
1337 to 1453 making it 116 years. The war started with King Edward III believing that he had the right to the
French throne after King Charles IV of France died. As the French did not want King Edward to rule as he
was a foreigner resulting in Philip VI becoming king and the war starting over this disagreement.
At the beginning of the war, France dominated with 17 million people England had only 4 million as well
France had an alliance with Scotland leaving England to fend for itself. England was able to win both the
Battle of Sluys and the Battle of Crecy which prevented France from invading England keeping the War on
France territory.
As the black plague was a prominent issue during the war there was very little fighting as a result of the
plague. A battle resulting in the capturing of King John II of France eventually led to a truce giving England
one-quarter of France.
With the new king of France Charles V France became more successful as King III of England had become
old and unable to successfully fight. As France allied with Castile they were able to gain control of any French
towns that had been taken previously. A peace followed from 1389-1415.
King Henry the V of England invaded
France and was able to win the Battle of
Agincourt. King Charles VI of France had
become insane and unable to rule, as nearly
all his sons died young. After both Henry
V and Charles VI died at almost the same
time and the French believed Henry VI of
England was the new king of France.
Joan of Arc was able to lead the French army
to success at the Siege of Orleans and the
Battle of Patay in 1429. She was also able
to gain back many cities and bring King
Charles VII to his coronation. After she was
captured and killed the French continued to
regain territory slowly. France had a
diplomatic win in 1435 with the Treaty of
Arras with the war officially ended in 1453.

ELLE| 4

SOCIAL STRUCTURE

The shocking contrast between the lives of people in different socioecono-
mic situations

Written by:
Ralph Clarke

In today's society, we currently have a Nobility
three class social structure that consists Bourgeoisies
of the nobility, bourgeoisies and pea-
sants. The clergy is separate from the Peasents
state. In this article the lifestyles of the
three classes will be compared and con-
trasted.

At the top of the hierarchy is the nobility. I The bourgeoisie, also known as merchants are
am a part of this class and we live a life of the middle class. They have both the ability
entertainment. We ride, hunt, feast, talk, and resources to enjoy luxuries and can move
listen to music and dance. We also lead many up the social ladder. They live in furnished
wars. We often wear silk brocades and vel-
vets with fur trims. Our headwear is quite Emperorhomes, have linens and china. They do not lack
extreme. The Hennin which is a tall peaked
hat that is a yard high is currently in style any necessities. Wives do not do housework,
for women. Sumptuary laws regulate the
heights of this hat. For example, princesses Civil Service/but they supervise the home. They also do not
are allowed to wear Hennins that are a yard
high, but nobles are not allowed to wear dress very extravagantly. Their husbands some-
Hennins that are more than twenty four times dress lavishly as they like to intimidate
inches. It is often tradition that Kings, Dukes the nobility. Sumptuary laws are not always
and Feudal Lords present robes and clothing followed as people of lower classes would often
to people in their household which is called dress higher than their class to impress others.
livery. Typical garments that are passed down
are called Mi-Parti/Parti-coloured. These gar-
ments have heraldic devices/special motifs
that are associated with a noble/his family.
The garment consists of different coloured
fabrics that are sewn together. These could
represent marriages or even cities.

5 | ELLE

The lowest class are the peasants. Peasant husbands and wives work together. They plant, harvest and
shear sheep. Women make very simple food for their family. Their homes have two to three rooms with
tables, benches/stools, chests/cupboards and beds. Peasants wear plain clothing such as a homespun
tunic belted at the waist. In the winter, they wear stockings, a cloak and heavy boots. In the summer,
they wear hats and a light tunic. The poorest people wear clothes that are made out of very coarse cloth.
Some cloth is dyed with natural dye stuffs (blue/woad dye). For special occasions peasants dress up fas-
hionably. Sometimes their clothes even mimic the wealthy. Women peasants wear gowns that have fitted
bodices and skirts that are slightly full. Aprons are worn so that their clothes do not get dirty. They do not
wear long skirts as they would get in the way of field work.
Here is an excerpt from the poem Piers the Plowman written by William Langland describing the rechad

His Hood full of holes
With the hair sticking through,
His clumsy knobbed shoes cobbled over so thickly,
Through his toes started out as he trod on the
ground…
Two miserable mittens made out of old rags,...
He wading in mud almost up to his ankles,
And before him four oxen, so weary and feeble
One could reckon their ribs, so rueful were they.

As you can tell the lives of the poor were horrific.
Our society certainly does not think about the poor
enough. Their basic needs are not being met. Per-
haps us nobles should find ways to help them. Is
our class system really all that efficient? Or perhaps
there are issues in our society that need to be ad-
dressed (such as poverty).

ELLE| 6

Technological Events

Written by Zoe Bardane
Published in 1440

The cannon and gunpowder was introduced at
the start of the 14th century.

7 | ELLE

“The Movable Printing Press made
books more readily available and ulti-
mately enabling more people to read.”

A page from the Gutenberg Bible.

Throughout the later years of the middle ages, we see more developments in technology
than previously recorded. For example, the introduction of gunpowder and the cannon
gave an even greater advantage to the soldiers over the armored knights on horseback.
These cannons were used in the early 14th century, guns, mortars, and explosive mines
soon followed. However, the most vital invention in the 14th century is the moveable
printing press, thanks to Johann Gutenburg. Given this new method of printing, we see
the cost of books going down substantially which made books more readily available and
ultimately enabling more people to read. This invention serves as a foundation for the
mass production of books, which increases the spread of fashion as well as other informa-
tion. Thanks to the moveable printing press, it ultimately contributed to a revival of classi-
cal learning that influenced every aspect of life.

ELLE| 8

The Legend of
Robin Hood

A Fighter of Change
Written By:
Eadwulf Holte

We have just received intel on the fascinating tale of the outlaw Robin Longstride. His story is one of loss,
love and bravery. He is this issue’s cover story. Here are all the juicy details about his story.

This tale starts in the 12th century. Robin was a skilled archer and he fought in the crusades with King Ri-
chard the Lionheart. He was an honest man, oftentimes too honest for his own good. It is said he was
punished by King Richard as he spoke out saying God would not approve of the crusades! King Richard even
put him in the stocks! During battle King Richard died therefore, Robin was released. He and his friends lea-
ve camp and decide to head home to England.

Here is a video of Robin Fighting alongside King Richard during the Crusades
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n75PgMSxAOw
This is an image of the typical As Robin was making his way
clothing Robin wore. His clothes home from the crusades he
are very plain. He wears leather encountered Sir Robert Loxley
because it keeps him warm during and a group of knights as they
the cold winter months. He wears were taking King Richards crown
an outer garment with an attached back to England. However, Sir
hood. This was a very popular trend Godfry and other French soldiers
in the 12th century. His long sleeve attacked them. Robin made a
tunic and trousers were most likely promise to a dying Sir Robert
made from wool as he was from a low Loxley to return his sword to his
social class and he did not have much father. Robin and his troop stole
money. Unlike in past years men’s the clothes of the dead English
fashion had shifted and they did not soldiers and headed to England to
always wear an undertunic. It is not return the King’s crown.

clear if Robin wore an undertunic or
not. His calf height leather boots
were very durable and they kept his
feet warm and dry during all his
adventures and journeys. Surprisingly,
Robin did not wear leg wrappings.
Leg wrappings were very fashionable.
9 | ELLE

Here is an image of Robin in the stolen Knight crusader armour. As you can see
Robin wore a form of chain mail armour. The sleeves of his armour were made
of hundreds of tiny interlocking iron rings. These rings were held together with
rivets which allowed the fabric to move with the body. Chain mail provided extra
protection for knights as they went into battle. The knight’s costume also con-
sists of a tunic (made of either wool or linen) that has the crusader crest em-
broidered on the chest. In the image, Robin is also wearing a long mantle.
Robin successfully delivered King Richard’s crown to Eleanor of Aquitaine (King
Richards mother). John, Elanore of Aquitaine’s younger son was crowned king.

Here is an image of King John on his throne.
As you can see his clothing was a lot more
elaborate, decorative and colourful compared
to Robin’s. He wore a silk demask under tunic
and outer tunic. This fabric/garment was very
expensive and only the wealthy could afford
it. Furthermore, King John’s belt was not plain
brown leather like Robin’s, instead his was
coloured turquoise and it had jewels on it. This
garment clearly showed King John’s high status
and wealth.

Here is an image of Eleanor of Aquitaine. Like her son,
John, she dressed very elaborate. In this image she wore
a gold embroidered mantle and gown. Even her gloves
were embroidered with the same matching pattern.
She also wore a very popular headdress. Her hair was
covered completely and it was wrapped in a veil very
closely so that only her face was seen. This was a form
of a barbette. Eleanor also wore a jeweled band on her
barbette.
Robin arrived at Loxley house where he met Lady Marion
(Robert’s wife). He told her about Robert's death and re-
turned the sword to Walter (Sir Robert Loxley’s father).
Walter requested that Robin stay and pretend to be
Robert as it would allow Lady Marion to keep her land.
Robin agreed even though Marion was not happy.

Here is an image of Lady Marion. She wore both an outer
and an under tunic. Her under tunic was lilac and had fitted
long sleeves. Her outer tunic was very form fitting. She also
wore a long flowing dark brown skirt. Notice how her clo-
thes were very pale and plain compared to Eleanor of Aqui-
taine. This shows that she was of a lower class.
Marian and Robin met with Friar Tuck. They were angry as
the church was refusing to give them grain. Later that night
Robin and Friar Tuck stole the grain by pretending to be
robbers. They then planted the grain in the fields of Nottin-
gham.

ELLE| 10

Here is an image of Friar Tuck. His garments were very plain. Friar’s
are the lowest rank in the Cathloic church. He wore a robe with a
matching outer garment. His outer garment is similar to the leather
hood Robin wore, but Friar tuck’s was most likely made out of wool.
Godfrey and his men attacked villages who refused to pay their taxes. He left
the villages in complete disarray. Isabella, King John's new wife, was a paid
agent of France. She told King John that Godfry was attacking villages so that
the Northern Barons would get angry and they would uprise and attack the
throne. This would then make it easier for the French to invade England.
Here is an image of Isabella. The garments she wore were very
luxurious, similar to Elanore of Aquitaine. She wore both an
under and an outer tunic. The undertunic’s sleeves and neckline
were slightly longer than the outer tunic, therefore they were
visible. This was a popular trend. Her garments were embroi-
dered and jeweled. This showed her high status and wealth.
She also wore lavish accessories such as gold rings, necklaces,
earrings and a jeweled headpiece. She also wore a lavish fur
mantle as fur was a very popular textile amongst the wealthy to
keep them warm.

Here is an image of Godry in his armour. It is very similar to
the armour that Robin wore to disguise himself as a knight.
The main difference between the two armours (other than
colour) is that Godfry wore chain mail trousers and had a
chain mail helmet/hood. Therefore, his armour was more
protective as he was the leader of the army.

11 | ELLE

Here is a video of a village dance. Notice how the garments of the villagers are very plain compared to the royal-
ty.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wcpJ9miUHRA
At the village dance Walter told Robin that his dad was a visionary and a philosopher. Walter showed Robin the
charter of rights his father wrote. Robin remembered that he witnessed his father's execution.
All the Barons of the North met with King John. King John told the Barons about Godfrey and the French’s plan.
He insisted that he had no part in the invasion of the towns. When Robin arrived at the meeting point he gave a
heartfelt speech. He demanded that all men deserve power. He suggested that his father’s charter be implemen-
ted. King John agreed to the proposition and all the Barons agreed to go to war with him.
Watch Robin’s speech below: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_zks9fmDjc
While Robin was away, Godfrey and his men invaded Nottingham (Robin’s home). Godfrey killed Walter and
the messenger tried to rape Marion. Luckily she was able to kill him and escape. Robin arrived and attacked
Godfrey’s men.
Robin headed to the coast to prepare for the French invasion. Marion dressed as a man and assisted in the battle.
Godfrey fled the battle as the French were losing, but Robin fired an arrow and killed him. The English won the
battle and everyone cheered for Robin.

King John felt threatened by Robin as he was very popular with the people. Therefore, he refused to sign the
magna carta and he declared Robin an outlaw.
Here is a video of King John declaring Robin Hood an Outlaw: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A01l_
p2xnPE
No one knows what happened to Robin Hood. There were rumors that he went to live in the forest with Ma-
rion, but no one ever saw him. What do you think happened to him?

ELLE| 12

Valuables

Hair was cut moderately short,
below the ears. As well as
men’s faces were most often
clean shaven.

Hat styles grew more varied;
such as decorative brocades,
colored hat bands, and trim-
mings of plumes ornamented
hats. I believe the chaperones
were transformed into turban
by varying the way they were
worn. For the head coverings
it is widened rather than high.
It visible, hair was plaited, and
either coiled around the ears.

Unmarried girls, brides, and Hair was worn in a style frequently d
queens at their coronations by costume historians as the bowl cr
could bare their heads and appearance of an inverted bowl arou
show their hair. For me as an of the head.
adult woman, I had to have a Below the cut hair the neck was shav
cove over the head. As well ter mid-century the shortness of the
as a high, smooth foreheads, modified after 1465 by longer styles,
achieved through plucking out a pageboy cut.
the hair which led to no hair.

13 | ELLE

s Here is the space to add the description of the
image you place below/above bigger.

described The headdress was Some very popular Jewelry and accessories
rop; the padded and could
und the top resemble double were; In addition to belts such
ved, Af- horns. However, the as those worn with the
e cut was headdress grew taller Necklaces cote-hardie, some belts
, similar to and more fanciful. Its Bracelets had suspended daggers
size and shape ranged Earrings or pouches for carrying
from a flat-topped to Rings valuables.
high-crowned. Which
was an enormous decorative brooches
cone-shaped, peaked
hat that was as much jeweled belts
as a yard high. Howe-
ver, this latter style Buttons
was limited in use to
France and Burgundy clasps for mantles

Wealthy women also wore gloves

ELLE| 14

Members of all classes now
wore gloves
Belts were one of his most
important possessions, and
depriving a man of his belt
was a symbol of humilia-
tion. I believe that really
affected men. In the second
half of the century belts
became a less essential part
of the costume.

People also wore footed hose with leather
soles instead of shoes. Shoes covered the
foot entirely or were cut away. Wearing of
the poulaine which are exaggeratedly poin-
ted-toed shoe, resumed toward the end of
the century
Although the toes of all shoes of this period
were pointed, only nobles and the rich wore
the extreme forms.

Poulaines were out of fashion, but the style returned later in
the century.

15 | ELLE Both fitted and loose styles of boots ranged from ankle
length to calf length, or extended to the thighs for riding.
Working-class men wore clogs when weather made streets
muddy.

Hose were either in colors that contrasted with the rest
of the costume or in a different color for each leg,covered
the legs. Joined hose made with leather soles were worn
both indoors and out. Often dyed to bright colors many
was parti-colored. Most men preferred to cover their legs
with hose
Lower class men wore stockings that reached to the knee
just below the calf.
Although womens shoes resembled mens, the toes of
womens shoes were never elongated to the same extent
and were mostly hidden underneath the long dresses.

ELLE| 16

14th Century Garments

Different styles and variations of the houppelande. As a man living in the 14th century, I would typi-
cally be seen wearing a pourpoint. It is a slee-
Woman in green wears a houppelande with ermine lined veless garment with a padded front, originating
sleeves while others wear cote-hardies with lined sleeves. from military dress. There is a sleeved iteration
of the pourpoint we began to wear more often
38 | ELLE as it was seen as civilian dress. The pourpoint
features set-in sleeves, making movement far
easier and advantageous in both battle and life.
The pourpoint I wore would typically be layered
with other garments, and usually belted. For
example, the cote-hardie, which was shaped
closely to the body and short in length, was worn
over my pourpoint. A common finishing technique
for garments was called dagging. It is essentially
when the edges of the garments, sleeve flaps and
hats were cut into a pointed or, squared scallops.
Another garment that I would traditionally wear
over my pourpoint was a houppelande, which was
a housecoat. There was also a mid-calf version
which was called the houppelande à mi-jambe.
This iteration features a high standing collar that
encircles the neck. My friends who enjoyed spen-
ding time outdoors would wear garments such as
the garnache or herigaut, as well as various capes
and cloaks. The new fashions that appear towards
the end of the 14th century include the houce
which can be described as wide skirted overcoat.

My wife would wear multiple layers of clothing,
which was common for women of the 14th
century. Her outfit would usually start off with a
linen undergarment, then a fitted gown, and over
that was a second fitted gown. On top of all of
this my wife completed the look with a cloak or
mantle. Similar to that of men’s garments, styles
would go on to change throughout the century.
The traditional form of a French royal queen
or princess features a gown, surcote, skirt and
decorative brooches. In the colder months, gar-
ments such as cloaks are lined with fur to provide
warmth. Ermine was a popular choice, as well as
lettice that was reserved for women of nobility.
The lower-class women however would use fur
from foxes, otters and small rodents.

15th Century Garments

Women wearing the traditional full gowns.

15th Century houppelande front and back view During the 15th century the doublet was a common fashion for us men. It was
showing the pleating and open hanging sleeves. placed over our undershirts and beneath our jackets. Short in length, barely
reaching the thighs this garment sometimes extended below the waist. Sleeves
have become detachable and the hose that cover the lower part of the garment
are now constructed in a new form. Another new component in garments is the
codpiece which can be found in the crotch area of the hose, it is sewn in to
accommodate the genitals. The codpiece is tied shut with laces. The cote-har-
die would soon be replaced by the shorter houppelande or an alternative style
called a jacket. The 15th century jacket was in ways similar in function that of
modern suit jacket. The upper-class men also favoured the huke, which origi-
nated as a covering for armour. Throughout the 15th century, women chose to
wear an undergarment called the chemise. My wife traditionally wore a houppe
lande that was long and slightly belted above her waistline. It features natural
shoulder lines and shared similarities to the men’s iteration of that garment. Th
collar style of the houppelande was typically high-standing and usually opens at
the front or flat, V-shaped, or turned down collars. Gown styles were always a
popular fashion for women in our time and would evolve throughout the centur
Soft gathers with fullness would replace rigid, tube shaped pleats. The bodice
features a deep V, sometimes extending all the way to the waist. Edges of the V
would be turned back into revers which were essentially lapels that are turned
back to show the underside. Another style of the gown was the roc. It was loose
fitting and not worn as commonly as other gowns. The bodice was cut with a
rounded neckline and featured pleats or gathers at the centre. When bad wea-
ther arose, cloaks were often worn to protect ourselves from the rain.

ELLE| 18



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2 | ELLE

Social Structure
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14th Century Garments
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15th Century Garments
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Page 167 Figure 6.22 (Photographs by Vincent R. Tortora)
Page 169 Figure 6.25 (The Pierpont Morgan Library, Art Resource NY)

ELLE| 3