Perming and neutralising techniques and problems - ITS

GH14Session 8

Perming and neutralising
techniques and problems

Trainer requirements to teach this lesson

For this session you will need the following:

• Handout GH14.8.1 (2 pages)

• Slide GH14.8.1

• Hairdressing block

• Hairdressing equipment for sectioning and winding

• Perm rods – short and long lengths

• End papers

• Water spray

• Handout GH14.8.2

• A wound block – Demonstration of development

test curls

• Handout GH14.8.3

• Handout GH14.8.4

• Slide GH14.8.4

• Activity GH14.8.4

• Learner Check Session 8

Trainer notes

This session will cover:

8.1 When to use the types of sectioning
techniques listed in the range

8.2 The factors that influence the use of
different sized perm rods and the method of
checking curl development

8.3 Methods of application of perming lotions
and neutralising agents

8.4 Types and causes of problems that can
occur during the perming and neutralising
processes and methods of resolving
perming problems

© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 1 - Unit GH14 - Session 8.

GH14Session 8

Perming and neutralising
techniques and problems

8.1 When to use the types of sectioning
techniques listed in the range

Explain to learners that there are many different
sectioning techniques used in the industry but for NVQ/
SVQ Level 2, three are required.

Ref: Slide GH14.8.1
Handout GH14.8.1
A hairdressing block

Show learners the overhead transparancies, describe
the three techniques illustrated and use the block to
demonstrate the techniques.

Directional Wind
Explain that this is used to perm the hair in a specific
direction to follow a style shape.

State that there are no hard and fast rules about
creating a directional wind.

Demonstrate How to take meshes for winding,
showing direction of wind.

Speak about using normal length and short rods to
avoid dragging hair into a rod.

Tell the learners that post-damping is usually done with
this sectioning method.

Nine Section Wind
Tell the learners that this technique is normally used
for a basic perm wind.

Explain that the main advantage of this wind is that it
helps hairdressers to work methodically because each
section is pinned up out of the way until it is being
wound.

Go on to explain that the main disadvantage is that the
hair is sectioned into definite sections and the
tramlines or channels can often be seen after the perm
is complete, especially if the hair is fine.

Page 2 - Unit GH14 - Session 8. © Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Page 2 - Unit GH14 - SESSION 8. © Copyright 2003 Consumer Services Industry Authority - all rights reserved.

GH14Session 8

Demonstrate Section the block into the 9
separate areas

• 3 in the lower back of the head
• 3 in the upper back of the head
• 1 at either side of the head above the ears
• 1 along the top of the head.

Explain that if a pre-damp technique is to be used,
then learners must wind the sections in the correct
order.

Tell them that the reason is that some parts of the
head will come into contact with the perm lotion much
sooner than others so they must first wind the areas
that will take longest to develop.

Go over the order in which each section is wound as is
shown on the slide.

Emphasise that if post-damping is to be done then it
doesn’t matter in which order they wind because the
perm lotion will be applied to the whole head all at one
time.

Brick Wind
Explain to learners that this technique is used to avoid
perming tramlines/channels into the hair.

Tell them to make each section at the time the hair is
to be wound. Talk about avoiding drag - they must
plan the position of each rod. Show them normal
length and shorter length rods, used to fit into small
spaces.

Demonstrate How to create a pattern that looks
like bricks in a wall.

8.2 The factors that influence the use of different
sized perm rods and the method of checking
curl development

Ref: Handout GH14.8.2

Explain to learners that the size of the rod determines
the size of the curl.

© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 3 - Unit GH14 - Session 8.

GH14Session 8

The strength of the perm lotion has nothing to do with
it, this affects the condition of the hair, not the size of
the curl.

Tell the learners that a good hairdresser can take
almost any perming chemicals and achieve any curl
result just by varying the size of the rods.

Remind them that long hair winds with more tension so
the curl result may be quite firm.

Choosing the rod size

Emphasise to learners that they must choose the right
sized rod if they are to achieve the required result.

Tell learners that there are three main factors to
consider when making a choice:

• the degree of curl required – a small curl needs a
small rod, a loose curl needs a larger rod

• the length of the hair – the more turns the rod
makes when the hair is wound, the softer the curl
will become. Explain that on long hair, if hair is
wound from ends to roots, the curl will be tighter on
the ends than it is at the roots

• if the hair is to be cut after the perm – the curl at
the very ends will always be slightly curlier than the
curl at the roots. This is because as the rod is
wound, the diameter becomes larger with each
turn, due to the hair being wrapped around it.
Cutting hair after the perm will soften the curl, so a
smaller rod may be used.

Checking curl development

Some perms are self-timing. Time
accurately then follow manufacturer’s instructions.
Recap on the development test curls at GH14.5.2.

Page 4 - Unit GH14 - Session 8. Demonstrate Using a block that has previously
been wound, show learners how
to check the curl development.
Explain the need to test at
various parts of the head.

© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.

GH14Session 8

Explain to learners that they must found out how
easily the S forms feel by pushing the hair and
coaxing the ‘S’ into shape.

State that they cannot tell just by looking if the curl
development is complete. Stress that if they need to
leave it for another few minutes to develop further,
they must remember that a perm can over process in
a very short time. Tell learners to check every 3 – 5
minutes.

Discuss the need to practise taking development tests
to become proficient.

Ask learners how they can stop the
action of perm lotion.

The action will be stopped when the Page 5 - Unit GH14 - Session 8.
rods are rinsed. Remind learners of the
importance of thorough rinsing. Stress that
long thick hair may have to be rinsed for
up to 15 minutes to ensure all perm
chemicals are removed.

8.3 Methods of application of perming lotions
and neutralising agents

Most manufacturers of modern perms recommend
post-damping.

Tell the learners that the exception is if the hair is
long. Explain that perm lotion may not soak through
the wound layers of hair to the points so some
manufacturers advise pre-damping.

Ref: Handout GH14.8.3

Explain that for a post-damp application:

• the hair is fully wound before perm lotion is
applied

• wear PPE and apply barrier cream to the full
hairline before the application starts

© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.

GH14Session 8

• any cotton wool placed around the hairline must be
thoroughly wet and squeezed out but leaving the
strip still quite damp; this dilutes any perm lotion
that it soaks up.

Tell learners to start the application in the nape so that
no perm lotion trickles onto the face when the head is
tilted forward to do the back. Emphasise that the
reason is not because the nape is the slowest area to
develop (the other areas will receive perm lotion
within a minute or two) but for the client’s comfort and
safety.

Stress that perms must be applied slowly, ensuring full
coverage for an even curl result. Tell them to apply
the lotion slowly enough for the hair to absorb it or
chemical burns can result if it lies on the scalp.
Explain the need to change cotton wool if perm lotion
is absorbed and to check that none is on the towel or
gown. If so, they must change it.

Pre-damp application

Stress that this method is usually only used on long
hair, or if instructed by the manufacturer.

• start in the nape (slowest to develop) and end
at the top (fastest to develop)

• apply to mid lengths and ends of each mesh of
hair immediately before winding

• wind very quickly to reduce the risk of over
processing of the first parts wound

• wear PPE throughout the process and protect
the client’s skin with barrier cream

• saturate the wind but do not allow perm lotion
to lie on the scalp.

Application of neutralisers

Explain to learners that neutralisers are applied in
different ways:

• applied straight from the applicator bottle
• foamed up on the head using a sponge
• foamed up in a bowl prior to the application
• instant neutralisers are sprayed forcefully onto

the hair from a special container.

Page 6 - Unit GH14 - Session 8. © Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.

GH14Session 8

Tell learners to follow manufacturer’s instructions for
the recommended application method. State that the
first application normally uses about 2/3 of the product.

Emphasise the need for complete coverage of the
wound hair to achieve even results.

• any missed parts will straighten
• maintain tension on the rods during development –

loose areas will drop
• time the development accurately
• carefully remove the rods and apply the remaining

1/3 of the neutraliser to the points
• allow full development before rinsing.

8.4 Types and causes of problems that can
occur during the perming and neutralising
processes and methods of resolving perming
problems

Ref: Slide GH14.8.4

Show learners the main types of problems, the most
likely causes and possible methods of resolving them.

Ref: Handout GH14.8.4

Discuss with the learners the need to avoid the
problems as shown. Explain that, if they carry out a
thorough consultation, conduct all necessary tests and
make decisions based on the results of those tests
they will be less likely to be faced with the problems.

Emphasise that, if the learners are in any doubt about
anything to do with the perm or neutralising they
should seek help and advice from a more experienced
member of staff rather than go ahead and perhaps
create a problem to be resolved.

Ref: Activity GH14.8.4

Issue Activity GH14.8.4, to the learners Ask them to
complete it. This can be done individually, in small

groups in the session or in private study time.

© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 7 - Unit GH14 - Session 8.

GH14Session 8

Now complete the Learner Check for
Session 8 to check the
understanding of the learners.

Page 8 - Unit GH14 - Session 8. © Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.

Perm and neutralise hair GH14Session 8
Learner Check
1 A directional wind can be done in
Session 8 almost any pattern, a brick wind is
done in the pattern of a brick wall.
1 What is the difference between a
directional wind and a brick wind? 2 The first part to be wound would
be the nape area and the last part
2 If you are using a pre-damp would be the top of the head.
application would you wind any
particular area of the hair first? 3 It prevents ‘tramlines’ being
If so, specify the first area to be permed into the hair.
wound and the last area to be
wound. 4 The result will be soft.

3 What is the main benefit of using 5 Rinse the perm to stop any further
a brick sectioning method? development.

4 If a large rod is used to wind short 6 Until the manufacturer’s
hair will the result be firm or soft? instructions say to rinse and
neutralise it.
5 If the curl development test shows
the formation of a definite ‘S’ 7 By looking and checking the
shape what should you do? strength of the ‘S’ formation.

6 If a perm is self-timing how long 8 Gloves and apron.
should you let it process?
9 Yes – neutraliser is a chemical.
7 What is the best way to check the
curl development – by looking at 10 Usually 2/3 of the product.
the S shape or by looking and
feeling how strong the ‘S’
formation is?

8 What PPE would you wear while
making a post-damp application?

9 Is it necessary to wear PPE when
applying neutraliser?

10 How much of the neutraliser is
applied at the first application?

© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 9 - Unit GH14 - Session 8.

GH14Session 8

Page 10 - Unit GH14 - Session 8. © Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.

GH14Session 8

Perming and neutralising
techniques and problems

Trainer summary

8.1 When to use the types of sectioning
techniques listed in the range

Remind learners of the demonstration to show:

• directional sectioning technique
• nine section method
• brick sectioning.

8.2 The factors that influence the use of
different sized perm rods and the method of
checking curl development

• c hoosing the rod size – degree of curl required,
length of the hair, if it is to be cut

• c hecking curl development – self-timing perms,
S formation.

8.3 Methods of application of perming lotions
and neutralising agents

• p ost-damping
• pre-damping
• a pplication of neutralisers.

8.4 Types and causes of problems that can
occur during the perming and neutralising
processes and methods of resolving
perming problems

Recap on:
• fish hooks
• s kin and scalp irritation
• straight pieces
• frizz
• hair breakage.

© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 11 - Unit GH14 - Session 8.

GH14Session 8

Perming and neutralising
techniques and problems

Key/Core Skill Opportunities

There will be an opportunity to promote discussion
when covering:

• GH14.8.2 the necessity for practising development
tests to reach competence

Page 12 - Unit GH14 - Session 8. © Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.