Amateur Gardening

TOP 10 FLOWERING CURRANTS Graham Rice lists plants that offer fruits and flowers GROWTREES AND SHRUBS FROM SEED Alan Toogood’s top tips for successful propagation PEAT-FREE COMPOST EXPLAINED Steve Bradley on the benefits and challenges ahead Sunflowers Here comethe Vibrant varieties to suit all needs LATE SPRING FUN! 29 APRIL 2023 Free seeds not available in ROI and NI Amateur ONLY £2.10 O Feed and top-dress bulbs O Potting on ‘leggy’ tomatoes O Pot up your small perennials O Prepare your lawn for summer FREE SEEDS WORTH £2.40 Peas: great varieties & top tips FREE SEEDS

29 APRIL 2023 AMATEUR GARDENING 3 Alamy Cover (pic: Alamy): Sunflower (Helianthus) Future Alamy Shutterstock 4“Here are my tasks for the week to get the garden in order,” says Ruth 32“My top flowering and fruiting currants to grow,” says Graham Jobs for this week 4 Important tasks to sort now 5 Nine jobs to get the garden in order 7 Restoring potted bulbs 9 Looking after garden wildlife 10 Potting on leggy tomatoes 12 Free seeds: Lobelia ‘Cascade Mixed’/What’s on near you Great garden ideas 24 Light & airy umbellifers: cottage style favourites, loved by florists 28 Hot sunflowers: A wide choice of options wih 13 different varieties 32 Top 10 ribes: our best selection of flowering and fruiting currants 48 Gardening solutions: best plants to use in small water features Gardening wisdom 14 Bob Flowerdew 16 Val Bourne Wildlife 19 Lucy Chamberlain’s Fruit and Veg 22 Steve Bradley’s peat-free comment 36 Ask John Negus: your questions 40 Raise & Save: trees and shrubs 45 A Gardener’s Miscellany 50 Advanced Skills: plant hormones 52 Anne Swithinbank’s Masterclass 55 Letters to Wendy: from AG readers 59 Toby Buckland “We have had a great response to our price guide (25 March issue) and thanks to those who have offered their bargain finds – see Letters on page 55). We found that you could save over £7 on a box of plant food, depending on where you bought it! In these tough financial times, that makes a huge difference. Our next price watch update will be in the 20 May issue. In the meantime, keep sending in details of any bargain products you come across, and remember each one published wins a free pair of Town & Country gardening gloves. A bargain in its own right!” Garry Coward-Williams, Editor Contact us: Subscriptions: 0330 333 1113 Editorial: 0330 3903732 Email: [email protected] Advertising: 0330 3906566 28“Nothing is cheerier than a sunflower and here are my top 13 varieties,” says Louise 139 years of practical advice 1884 TheWorld’s Oldest Gardening Magazine 2023 0330 333 1113 amateurgardening subs – .c s o e .u e k p /XAGMAY23 age 48 Subscribe Sp today. ec o ia ff l Spring er

MID-SPRING is such a time of promise that the temptation is to spend every spare hour out in the garden. There is so much to do, be it planting and propagating, sowing seeds, potting seedlings, that it’s hard to know where to start. In the excitement of getting the garden ready for the summer, make sure you don’t neglect your indoor plants. We have a small castor oil plant on a windowsill and one day I noticed it wasn’t looking healthy and some of its leaves had shrivelled and dropped. Closer inspection revealed an infestation of white, fluffy mealy bugs that had been feeding on the plant and covering its leaves with a revoltingly sticky substance called honeydew. This in turn attracts sooty mould, which covers the leaves in black particles, so it wasn’t surprising the plant didn’t look in tip-top health. I started its rehabilitation by wiping off as many mealy bugs as I could, then repotting the plant in multipurpose A compost. I finally treated the leaves with ll Future Ruth outlines some of this week’s most pressing tasks an organic pest spray that is safe for use around children and pets and put the plant somewhere light and warm, but away from other plants until I can be sure all the mealy bugs have been eliminated and the plant is healthy. It will hopefully recover, and I’ll be helping it by spraying it with water each week to increase humidity around the leaves, and feeding fortnightly with liquid plant food. I also repotted three small perennials that came from the local garden centre in early January, where they were being sold off for £1 apiece. There are two Russian sage (Perovskia) ‘Blue Spire’ and a hardy fuchsia ‘Hawkshead’, an upright variety with pretty white flowers. When I bought them they all looked so sad and stick-like I wondered whether they would ever do anything, but new leaves are starting to show among the old woody stems, so I have removed the old growth and potted them up in fresh compost. The plants will now stay in the cold frame until they are large enough to be added to the garden. Importanttasks to sort now 4 AMATEUR GARDENING 29 APRIL 2023 I am pruning back our winter jasmine that has just finished flowering New shoots on the ‘Hawkshead’ fuchsia with AG’s gardening expert Ruth Hayes Your GARDENING WEEK 1 Cut back winter jasmine, shortening stems to a healthy leaf bud. Prune it any later and you will remove flowering wood. 2Jasmine shoots may root when their ends reach the ground. When this happens, carefully cut free and dig up the rooted section. 3Pot up the rooted piece of jasmine, in seed and cuttings compost, keep it warm and watered and it will soon start to grow. 4Prune winter-flowering clematis to keep it in shape and remove dead flowers. It usually only needs a light trim followed by a feed. Shrub care Mealy bugs on a houseplant Prune jasmine and winter clematis

29 APRIL 2023 AMATEUR GARDENING 5 Perfect perennials: It’s the perfect time for planting and dividing perennials – find out more in next week’s AG. The jobs I’ll be doing in the coming days From sowing seeds to planting out and removing winter debris, there’s loads to do 5Pot up small perennials that are still too small to plant out. They will soon grow and can be hardened off in a cold frame and added to the garden in a few weeks. Remove any dead material. 4 Deal with houseplant pests using a damp cloth or an organic spray. Pot up anything that has outgrown its containers, using multipurpose compost enriched with fertiliser. 6 Clean moss and algae off the patio and use a sharp hoe to scrape away weeds and greenery. Now the weather is warmer it should be easier to keep the patio clean. 8Sow perennial seeds, and the plants will be large enough to pot on or even plant out in autumn. Plant mature perennials now as the soil is warming up (see next week’s AG). 7 Give your lawn some love. Remove moss and weeds, and edge around the borders to create a sharp, neat look. Reseed bare patches and sow some wild flowers. 9Keep up with garden hygiene. Weed regularly so that unwanted plants don’t take water and nutrients from young cultivated plants, and remove pests when you find them. 2Plant out broad beans that have been overwintering in the greenhouse and sow tender veggies such as courgettes, pumpkins, squash and runner beans. 1 Plant out any remaining spring bedding to fill gaps before summer’s plants come online. Keep deadheading and feeding spring bulbs as they die back, to feed them for next year’s blooms 3In most areas it will be warm enough to sow hardy annual seeds directly into the soil in a sunny, sheltered spot. Check plug plants are healthy and pinch out any flower buds.

29 APRIL 2023 AMATEUR GARDENING 7 Plant up small bulb offsets for more plants Restoring potted bulbs Feed and topdress for a summer of flowers, says Ruth All Future I F you haven’t already fed and topdressed any long-standing pots of summer bulbs, there is still time now. Done carefully it shouldn’t disturb the roots and new growth but will definitely help them give their best in the months ahead. This week I turned my attention to our potted lilies and agapanthus that have been in the same pots for three years now, so this will be their final season before I re-pot them or add them to the flower borders. Bulbs grow well in containers but if How to topdress potted bulbs 2 Carefully remove the top 2-3in (5- 7cm) of old compost from the top. 3Feed with Growmore or Vitax Q4 at the recommended amount. 1 Clear away any dead foliage and weeds on the top of the compost. 4 Cover with fresh compost, leaving a 1in (2.5cm) gap for watering. 5 Water the pot, raise on feet and shelter it until nighttime frosts pass. When the weather improves place the pots in a sunny sheltered spot and water when dry Step bystep with AG’s gardening expert Ruth Hayes Your GARDENING WEEK Q While topdressing the bulbs I found what I thought I might, but hoped to avoid – vine weevil grubs. Q These small, fat creamy larvae are often found deep among the compost of pots and planters. Q The dull brown adults nibble notches out of the edges of the leaves, but the real damage is done by the grubs that eat plant roots which, in bad infestations, will kill the plants. Q Although I only found a couple of grubs I suspect there will be more. Q In summer I would use parasitic nematodes to deal with the problem (available from  greengardener. co.uk), watering them on to the compost. But as it is still too cold I used Bug Clear Ultra Vine Weevil Killer. The grubs I found were added to the bird table, a small revenge! Grub them out Vine weevils are a potted pest Vine Weevil Killer will help keeps the bulbs safe A vine weevil grub Feed potted bulbs and then give them fresh compost Agapanthus shoots starting to appear you plan to leave them in the same pot for more than one season they need topdressing each spring so they don’t completely deplete their compost and run out of fuel. Remove the top few inches of compost, then add a granular fertiliser and cover it with fresh compost. As part of our peat-free experiment, I used Dalefoot Wool Compost for Potting, which is a rich blend of wool and comfrey with high levels of nutrients, making it ideal for pots where there are lots of plants vying for food.

29 APRIL 2023 AMATEUR GARDENING 9 Looking after garden wildlife Food, water and a place to hide are essential, says Ruth Future unless credited with AG’s gardening expert Ruth Hayes Your GARDENING WEEK Keep bird baths clean and filled with fresh water Clean bird tables to stop disease Nature-kind pest control CONTROLLING pests while keeping garden wildlife safe can be a hard balancing act. We all try to do our best to look after local wildlife and our insect populations, but this can sometimes clash with growing plants and crops. Although many gardeners are using organic sprays, these will still kill beneficial insects if used at the wrong time or in the wrong place. Our advice is never to use pest control spray on anything in flower because it will kill pollinating insects. Avoid spraying on windy days as the droplets will be blown where you don’t want them to go – this also applies to weedkillers that will devastate cultivated plants if blown onto them. If you are still using slug pellets, don’t leave them on the soil. Instead, put 3-4 under a tile near vulnerable plants. Slugs and snails will crawl under the tile, eat the pellets and die, and you can collect them up and dispose of them. Alternatively, put the skin of half an orange on the soil. Slugs and snails will collect under it and the whole thing can be disposed of. There are lots of ways you can control pests naturally. Garden birds will eat insect pests and collect them to feed their young and beetles, wasps and spiders will make short work of unwanted insects. In summer, look for the cocoons of the parasitic wasp Cotesia glomerata – their appearance means they have done for a cabbage white caterpillar, very satisfying! The cocoons of Cotesia glomerata wasps Put slug pellets under a tile to keep hedgehogs safe 1 Birds: keep feeding stations clean and well stocked with fresh food. Make sure they are positioned out of the reach of cats, or away from bushes where cats can lurk. Provide water for bathing and drinking. 2Insets: Add pollinator-friendly plants, such as perennial globe thistles, catmint and echinacea, plus annual calendula, poppies and cornflowers. Fill a saucer with pebbles and water to provide a drinking spot. 3 Mammals and amphibians: If you have a pond, ensure it has a shallow end or ramp so animals can get out. Encourage hedgehogs by putting out kitten biscuits or meaty pet food, and always make sure water is available. 4 General care: A log pile will give beneficial insects, frogs and invertebrates somewhere to hide and breed. If you are using netting to protect crops, make sure it is tight and tidy so animals don’t get trapped in it. Getty

10 AMATEUR GARDENING 29 APRIL 2023 Potting on leggy tomatoes Bury stems for good growth and strong rooting, says Ruth Future unless credited T HIS week has been about salvaging some ‘Tigerella’ tomato seedlings that had grown rather leggy and floppy on our living room windowsill. They had outgrown their modules and needed some stronger compost and more root room, and the solution was to re-pot them into larger containers so the depth of compost would give their stems better support and encourage them to root along their length. I did a similar thing last year, moving some extremely tall young plants directly into grow bags. It was later in the season and this year’s seedlings are still too young to go straight into the strong with AG’s gardening expert Ruth Hayes Your GARDENING WEEK 1 These seedlings had outgrown their modules and needed larger, deeper pots compost. 2Put some compost in the base of a deep pot and nestle the seedlings’ rootballs into it. 3Fill the pot with compost, burying the stems to encourage roots to form along their length. 4Water and place somewhere light and frost-free and the seedlings will enjoy healthy growth. How to plot on leggy seedlings Step bystep ‘Tigerella’ is an attractive, striped variety of tomato that is perfect for salads The seedlings already look stronger 2Tomato moth caterpillars eat the leaves and fruit. Spot them by following their trails of droppings, and remove them by hand. Tomato pests The ones to watch out for 1 Greenhouse pests include glasshouse red spider mites, pictured, and whitefly that suck sap and weaken plants. Combat the mites by watering regularly and keeping the atmosphere humid, and use parasitic wasps Encarsia formosa to remove the whitefly (available from  dragonfli.co.uk, call 01376 563322) Shutterstock compost of a grow bag So I have moved them into large pots of Sylvagrow multipurpose compost with added John Innes, three or four seedlings per pot, which will tide them through the next few weeks until they are large enough to go into grow bags. I’ve put them in the greenhouse, as the colder atmosphere will slow their growth but also toughen them up ready to go into the garden. Because the weather has been so unpredictable this year I’m keeping a roll of horticultural fleece close by to throw over them on nights should the temperature slump to below zero. Just a few days after repotting the tomatoes, they looked much stronger and healthier, so we are looking forward to a generous crop in a few months’ time. Getty

12 AMATEUR GARDENING 29 APRIL 2023 Sow cascades of colour Little lobelia seeds produce big results, says Ruth Future unless credited T HIS week’s free seeds have been sown in Sylvagrow with added John Innes, a peat-free formulation that is perfect for the first 4-6 weeks of a plant’s life. The packaging explains how to get the best results, including sieving the compost to remove larger ingredients that can hamper successful germination. This is advice we should always follow when sowing lobelia, because the seeds are fine as dust and can easily be swamped by compost particles and washed away by water. with AG’s gardening expert Ruth Hayes Your GARDENING WEEK How to sow tiny lobelia 3Tap or sprinkle the tiny seeds on the compost as thinly as possible. 1 Sieve the compost to remove larger particles that can block germination. 4Add a lid or seal the tray in a bag and place it somewhere light. 2Firm the compost and wet it with fresh tap water. Step bystep The lobelia promises a summer cascade of colour Debris caught by the sieve Alamy The drama of auriculas in Surrey on Sunday What’s On 29-30 April: Spring Gardening Weekend at RHS Garden Harlow Carr, Crag Lane, Beckwithshaw, Harrogate, North Yorkshire, HG3 1QB. 29 April: Rare Plant Fair at Admington Hall, Shipston-on-Stour, Warwickshire, West Midlands, CV26 4JN. 11am-4pm. 29 April-1 May: Hertfordshire Garden Show, Knebworth House, Old Knebworth Lane, Stevenage, Hertfordshire, SG1 2AX. 19 April: Alpine Garden Society East Lancashire Show, The Ashcroft, Whitworth Civic Hall, 661 Market Street, Whitworth, Lancashire, OL12 8DP. 11am-3.30pm. 29 April: National Auricula & Primula Society Southern Section 137th Auricula Show & Plant Sale, Main Hall, at Old Barn Hall, Church Road, Great Bookham, Surrey, KT23 3PQ. Public admittance 2.30-4pm. 30 April: Plant Fairs Roadshow, Hatfield Park & Gardens, Hatfield, Hertfordshire, AL9 5NB. 11am-3pm. 30: Clare Garden Festival, Ennis Showgrounds, Showgrounds Road, Ennis, Co. Clare, Ireland. 11am-5pm. 30 April-1 May: Plant Heritage Plant Sale, Eastcombe Village Hall, Chipping Campden, Gloucestershire, GL55 6XH. 9am-5pm. 30 April11 May: Weston Park Plant Hunters’ Fair, Weston-Under-Lizard, near Shifnal, Shropshire, TF11 8LE. 10am-4pm. 1 May: Hampshire Grand Plant Fair at Longstock, Longstock Park Nursery, Hampshire, SO20 6EH. 10am-4pm. Q Please send us details of your events, with photos if possible, six weeks in advance, to ruth.hayes@ futurenet.com Water the compost before sowing and don’t cover the seeds with anything other than a lid to keep the compost damp while they germinate. Make sowing very small seeds easier by mixing them with a little horticultural sand, then sprinkling them together. Alternatively, lift and tap the seeds off a dampened fingertip or matchstick. Lobelia ‘Cascade Mixed’ blooms in a pretty mass of colours, from dark purples to pale mauve and white. They are perfect for patio planters, windowboxes and hanging baskets. Both Press Restricted

14 AMATEUR GARDENING 29 APRIL 2023 1 Lure slugs onto slices of old carrot, potato, apple or orange peel hidden beside plants and then, every few days, tidy them up. All photographs TI Archive unless otherwise credited Bob’s top tips for the week 3 Make sure you are regularly watering every recently planted tree, bush and cane, as well as plants in containers, new sowings and bedding. 4Plastic jars or halved plastic bottles placed over strawberry flower trusses keep frosts at bay and force cleaner, sweeter fruits sooner. Main: Alamy Beware honeydew T HE first thing you’ll notice is stickiness underneath a plant. This is especially noticeable on polished or glossy surfaces as dust adheres. Alternatively, you’ll see lower leaves, stems and buds looking matt, dirty or muddied, almost as if they have been painted. This is an infection called honeydew – so called because, although it’s a bad sign on a plant, it’s sweet and irresistible to bees and other critters. This honeydew is the residue of sap stolen by one of several offenders. Being sweet, honeydew (by itself almost colourless) becomes food for bacteria and fungi, eventually turning into a blackish paint. At this stage, the loss of light and aeration to the leaves becomes serious. The most common culprits are Honeydew may sound like a harmless problem, but it can stunt and smother plants. Bob explains how to tackle it aphids. These may hide underneath leaves, in joints and among unfolding buds. You may spot minuscule bits of what seems to be crumpled tissue paper sprinkled over the honeydew, which are the discarded skins of the aphids. Harder to spot are scale insects. Their adults are small, though larger than aphids. Usually brown or black domes, these resemble buds (though in the ‘wrong’ places), while others describe them as helmet shaped. These become egg cases packed with thousands which, when mature, are released as powdery or fluffy masses. Most difficult to spot are red spider mites, which are neither red nor spiders, though certainly mite sized. Their other sign is leaves yellowing with thousands of tiny pin pricks and a fine cobwebbing over young shoots. In every case, the honeydew can be syringed off with soapy water. Do this multiple times – first to wet, then to wash off (possibly brushing as well) – and finally, rinse with clean water. This soapy wash treatment will help control these pests. However, you’ll probably need to repeat it to stop them returning. Yellowing and webbing of leaves are tell-tale signs of red spider mites Honeydew is the residue of sap-sucking insects; the signs of mealybug are visible as small white clumps on this lemon tree with Bob Flowerdew, AG’s organic gardening expert Your GARDENING WEEK “Honeydew can be syringed off with soapy water” 2 Rake the soil level and then place wet newspaper around strawberry plants before adding straw to make the cover better. This rhododendron has fallen foul of scale insects, with eggs within the fluffy masses Wipe muddied leaves with soapy water, then rinse with clean water Inset: Alamy Inset: Shutterstock

DO you remember the old adage, ‘April showers bring May flowers’? I don’t think it applies any more, because my garden is short of water more often than not. I found myself watering pots of bulbs in February this year, due to a lack of the wet stuff. I’m wondering whether or not we’ll get a stunning May. If we do, it will underpin the rest of summer, and I’m hoping for more rain than last year! May used to be a magical month in the garden. It came alive and was close to perfection. The famous gardener Edward Augustus Bowles (1865-1954) of Myddelton House, North London said:“If a fairy godmother or a talking fish offered me three wishes, I think one would be to have the clock stopped for six months on a fine morning towards the end of May. Then, perhaps, I might have time to enjoy the supreme moment of the garden.” The great man died in May. Although May can be glorious, flowers tend to be few and far between. Most of the spring-flowering bulbs and woodlanders have peaked, except for late tulips and camassias, while the summer-flowering perennials are waiting in the wings. So, it’s important to fill the May gap for our pollinators. The orange-tip butterfly (Anthocharis cardamines) is on the wing now and you may well have seen one already. They’re the size of small white cabbage butterflies. The males have orangetipped wings and they speed through the garden. The females have greyer wing tips and tend to be furtive in comparison, because their role is to lay a single spindle-shaped egg on the undersides of a suitable leaf. Once laid, the eggs turn bright-orange after a few days. Both sexes have beautifully mottled green underwings and rounded wing tips. Numbers of orange-tips fluctuate from year to year. The sunny, warm lockdown spring of 2020 produced bumper numbers of them. Their caterpillars eat brassicas, a plant family that includes wallflowers and stocks. These plants produce four-petalled flowers followed by slender seed pods. The orange-tip caterpillar’s preferred food plant is Cardamine pratensis, also known as lady’s smock, and you see this mauve flower in damp grass and meadows. It’s also called cuckoo flower, because it flowers in the last week of April, when cuckoos used to call. The butterfly’s species name, Cardamine, refers to lady’s smock. Lady’s smock needs plenty of spring rain, because the rosette of foliage needs to be extensive enough to sustain a hungry caterpillar. This versatile butterfly will also lay eggs on garlic mustard (Alliaria petiolata), a biennial also known as Jack-by-the-hedge. The heart-shaped leaves and white flowers can often be seen on roadside verges. Orange-tip females will also lay eggs on honesty (Lunaria annua), and dame’sviolet (Hesperis matronalis). Butterfly Conservation tells us that the slender green caterpillars do not thrive on these plants, although we have seen large orange-tip pupae on our sweet rocket in the garden. Butterfly expert Matthew Oates found several on one stem. Once the butterfly is ready to emerge in spring, you can actually see the male’s orange wing tips through the pupa case. The three plants that lift my garden in May are planted in a group. The frilly orange flowers of Geum ‘Totally Tangerine’ mingle among the starry slate-blue flowers of an amsonia. I believe it is Amsonia tabernaemontana var. salicifolia. The shoots emerge like sooty asparagus spears and this wonderful blue star has yellow autumn foliage and black seed pods. The third member of the trio is Dictamnus albus var. purpureus. Stiff stems bear a spire of veined rose-pink flowers with curled-up anthers. As a child I tried to ignite the burning bush, as it’s said to produce inflammable gases. “Flowers tend to be few and far between” All photographs Alamy unless otherwise credited 16 AMATEUR GARDENING 29 APRIL 2023 Dictamnus albus var. purpureus, the third plant that lifts Val’s May garden Orange-tip butterflies mating, showing their mottled green underwings Geum ‘Totally Tangerine’ and blue amsonia light up Val’s garden in May with Val Bourne, AG’s organic wildlife expert Your GARDENING WEEK TIPIf your garden’s short on May flowers, visit a local nursery or garden centre and look for single flowers with simple shapes. Fill the May gap with flowers for our pollinators, says Val Come whatMay Val Bourne Val Bourne

29 APRIL 2023 AMATEUR GARDENING 19 WHETHER you’re a shelling, mangetout or sugar-snap fan, there’s a pea pod out there with your name on it. But how do you get maximum yield from this stalwart crop? Let me explain: Growing underground When growing peas, one element is fundamental to success – and it’s all in the roots. The larger the root system, the bigger the crop. To get a decent network of roots you need an open, moist (but not waterlogged), warm (but not hot) soil. Sounds complicated? Trust me, it’s not – just sow sufficiently early in the spring (protect all sowings from mice). Cold soils are also a no-no, with seeds rotting off if sown below 12°C. So, the simple solution for super-early harvests is to sow into pots under cover – if sown Focus on... Growing peas If you know the secrets of soil care, watering and root growth, then you can harvest peas from June to October. Lucy explains how to pick the perfect pods All photographs Alamy unless otherwise credited Thompson-morgan.com “When growing peas, success lies in the roots” in a propagator in mid-February, these can be planted out under cloches now. A second maincrop batch can be sown directly outdoors now into a sunny spot with ample compost added, and if you choose a powdery mildew-resistant variety (see page 20) and irrigate regularly, a further batch can be sown in late May or early June (some vigorous varieties claim that July sowings are even possible). Watering essentials Once robust pea plants get going, they’ll quickly put on rapid leaf growth (support this with wire or peasticks). As days lengthen flower formation is triggered, and pods soon follow. If on a freedraining soil or experiencing a dry spell, please remember to irrigate during this stage. Otherwise, individual pea seeds or whole pods could be aborted – and nobody wants that! ‘Shiraz’ produces purple pods that are rich in antioxidants ‘Dorian’ is a reliable early maincrop with nine large peas per pod Choose dwarf options like ‘Bingo’ for container-based peas Leafless peas make good options for beginners as they are less prone to foliar disease, although yields are slightly lower with Lucy Chamberlain, AG’s fruit and veg expert Your GARDENING WEEK Marshallsgarden.com Thompson-morgan.com

20 AMATEUR GARDENING 29 APRIL 2023 with Lucy Chamberlain, AG’s fruit and veg expert Your GARDENING WEEK 5 quick jobs quick jobs 1 Harvest spring-maturing cauliflowers (like ‘Jerome’) as soon as the curds develop sufficiently. 2If flea beetles are peppering your brassica seedlings with tiny holes, run a greased piece of card over the row – as the beetles sense the shadow, they jump… and stick! 3If you’ve not yet laid a mulch of compost or rotted manure around fruit trees, canes and bushes, step to it! If the soil is already dry, be sure to water it thoroughly before laying the mulch. 4Don’t pack away the cloches and fleece just yet. Late chilly spells are always possible, so be patient. 5While seed sowing is inexpensive, are you tempted to splash out on grafted vegetable plants? They offer improved vigour and yield, so perhaps it’s worth a little dabble.  3 perfect pea varieties for you to try 1 ‘Terrain’: A shelling pea with outstanding resistance to powdery and downy mildews. Can be sown directly into the soil now, with successional sowings made well into July in cooler summers. RHS AGM winner. Lucy ’s tips Grow mouth-poppingly moreish peas ■ Pea seeds remain viable for a good three years, but after this germination rates quickly decline. ■ Choose dwarf peas for pot culture. Taller heritage peas crop over a much longer period, so can also be useful. ■ Leafless peas are less prone to WE’RE all familiar with basil, tomatoes and olive oil as a classic Mediterranean threesome, but have you given Thai basil (Ocimum basilicum) a try? It’s just as easy to grow and bears an altogether spicier flavour. While basil (technically called ‘sweet basil’) is great for pesto and pizza, Thai basil is best suited to Asian cuisine. You could try tossing some Thai basil leaves into an aromatic aubergine curry, or even a hot-andsour tom yum soup. The purple-tinged leaves taste of liquorice and aniseed. If you’ve grown sweet basil before, then good news! Thai basil needs just the same treatment. Sow now into well-watered pots of seed compost (‘Siam Queen’ is the most widely sold Thai variety). Place in a propagator set at 20ºC and, once seedlings are large enough, transfer three or four to a three-litre pot. Grow on in full sun, harvesting leaves as and when needed. 2‘Snow Wind’: A mangetout pea that has good disease resistance and, if the pods are picked before the seeds form, yields are prolific. It’s a semi-leafless variety so it’s less vulnerable to mildew. Awarded an RHS AGM in 2000. 3‘Sugar Lace’: A lowmaintenance sugar-snap pea. Dwarf, with masses of tendrils rather than large leaves. Plants are selfsupporting. Good mildew resistance, RHS AGM. foliar disease, though yields are slightly lower and weed competition is weaker. ■ Pea roots ‘fix’ nitrogen from the soil, so leave these to rot down once the crop has finished. ■ Pea flowers self-pollinate while still closed. Collect your own seed as very little cross-pollination occurs. ■ Once mature, sugars turn to starch very quickly so taste test and pick as soon as they’re ready. Thompson-morgan.com Pea flowers like these of ‘Cascadia’ self-pollinate while shut Broaden your basil horizons with ‘Siam Queen’ Top tip Don’t forget! Marshallsgarden.com

29 APRIL 2023 AMATEUR GARDENING 21 SPRING is now well underway, and I’ve been eagerly watching first the peach, apricot and nectarine, then the pears, plums, cherries and finally the apples, blooming. It is a spectacular display! Bear in mind, though, that while these fruit trees themselves are hardy, their flowers can be damaged (and even killed) by a late frost. Such freezing cold snaps can cause, at best, any developing fruitlets to become disfigured and, at worst, a total harvest failure. So, if you have a fruit tree in full blossom on your plot, and Jack Frost is due a night-time visit, temporarily cover Fruit tree protection and pollinators your tree as best you can with blankets, hessian sacking or thick-grade garden fleece. Ideally, hold this insulating material away from the flowers using canes, as otherwise the cold can transfer through the covers onto any blooms it touches. Let me give a timely word about pesticides, too. Hopefully the message not to spray trees while they’re in bloom has firmly struck home now. Doing so could harm valuable pollinators, so please don’t. We’re increasingly relying on organic controls such as insect-proof meshes and pheromone traps to control Earthing up your potatoes 1 In ridges: This is the traditional way that potatoes are grown, and they appreciate regular ‘earthing up’ as they grow – simply draw the surrounding soil over the ridge using a rake. This covers the tubers with an ever-increasing depth of soil as they grow. 2In tubs: Large containers are increasingly being used for potato cultivation, as they sit nicely on hard surfaces such as patios. Periodically add a few handfuls of multi-purpose compost to the tub as the potatoes grow, until just beneath the pot’s rim. 3 On the flat: Potatoes don’t need to be ridged up and can be grown in beds just like any other vegetable. To stop tubers being exposed to light, either cover the bed with plastic sheet (pull the foliage through) or periodically top up with compost. Most of us have some of these tubers growing somewhere on our plot, and exactly where determines how we treat them as they develop: FANCY a fuss-free perennial evergreen to liven up spring and early summer salads? Let me introduce you to salad burnet (Sanguisorba minor). The plant is frequently grown as a meadowland plant, and it does indeed prefer impoverished, light soils as opposed to heavily enriched ones. The gently toothed, elongated leaves have a flavour somewhat similar to cucumber, and this is best appreciated while the foliage is soft, lush and non-flowering. Shearing plants back in midsummer encourages a fresh flush of palatable growth. If allowed to flower, you’ll be treated to cheerful little tufts of wine-red domes, which are attractive to all manner of beneficial insects. The leaves at this point will, though, become more bitter. Plants are easily raised from seed, and being hardy and perennial, will be with you for many years. While you can lift and divide tired clumps in autumn, it’s easier to raise fresh stock from seed when needed. circles are also traditional for small numbers of plants; extend these to wigwam rows for large quantities. I’ve also tried an ‘X’-shaped row of canes so pods dangle as they grow, with good effect. With poles, ensure they’re 1in/2.5cm diameter or less, otherwise the beans struggle to climb. You can build a cane and twine ‘dreamcatcher-style’ structure – just ensure that it’s sturdy! IF you’ve not sown climbing French and/ or runner bean seeds yet, you can start them now! These tender crops can be planted outside once the risk of frost has past, but now is a great time to prepare their bed. Climbing beans are hungry and thirsty – it takes a lot to sustain such an abundance of stems and leaves, so work generous amounts of organic matter into the bed. When it comes to supports, we’re steering away from plastic mesh netting, but you can buy a biodegradable jute twine version; simply erect this between two 6ft/1.8m high posts. Bamboo cane Salad burnet TI Archive TI Archive Climbing bean supports Future Covering dwarf fruits like ‘Nectarella’ with a fleece will protect from cold snaps Flowering Sanguisorba minor fruit pests, or winter washes while trees are dormant. Bees need all the help they can get. Whichever shape you choose, make sure it’s sturdy Step bystep Next week: Focus on broad beans, plant dwarf/tumbling tomatoes, check for pests under glass, give bees access to cloched flowers, and intercropping. Why nottry..? Avoid spraying flowers of fruiting trees with pesticides

AG’s Steve Bradley explains the current situation and offers his thoughts on the benefits and challenges of finding an alternative that satisfies the needs of gardeners Alternative compost challenge 22 AMATEUR GARDENING 29 APRIL 2023 F ROM the end of next year, gardeners in England will no longer be able to get any peatbased compost (it will still be in use in Europe). They are being banned due to peat extraction causing alleged damage to the environment, mainly through releasing long-stored CO₂. One-sided debate The debate has been somewhat onesided, with strong lobbying from environmental and wildlife groups claiming that although British gardens cover over 4 million hectares of land, the impact of using peat is too high a price to pay. These groups usually speak as if all the peat for compost is being extracted from pristine peat bogs, rather than ones which have been drained and worked by humans over centuries for agriculture and habitation. The alternative view might be that the lowest CO₂-emitting activity that could be carried out on such degraded lowland bogs is actually peat extraction — lower than forestry, agriculture, grazing, urban development or even leaving the land unused. Research into alternatives Peat composts were many years in development, at research stations in the UK. These establishments have almost all been closed down, so compost manufacturing companies have to conduct research themselves. For many years, they have been testing various materials, with differing results. Some companies have made complete and dramatic changes, while others have been gradually reducing the percentage of peat in their existing brands as they waited to see if a complete peat ban would be implemented and tried to adapt their feeding and watering advice. Many early attempts at alternatives to peat, using green waste, ended in disaster for the home grower, with losses of all plants from seeds to established shrubs. Lobby groups force early change Gradual changes do not seem to suit the lobby groups, who would rather see an immediate total ban, regardless of consequences for gardeners and growers. These huge changes to how we can grow our plants have been funded almost entirely by the companies manufacturing composts or a limited number of organisations who have commissioned research. As an industry, UK Horticulture has been very quiet over these changes, regardless of the damage it will do to growers of acid-loving plants, mushroom crops and various specialist species, like some orchids. To the best of my Alamy Steve Bradley PEAT-FREE COMMENT Compost with peat is the perfect growing formula, but going forward we will have to learn to use other options

29 APRIL 2023 AMATEUR GARDENING 23 Steve Bradley MA MHort (RHS) has written (or co-written) over 40 gardening books, including Propagation Basics, The Pruner’s Bible, The Ground Force Workbook and What’s Wrong With My Plant? He is resident expert on BBC Radio Kent, Sussex and Surrey, and he has built medalwinning gardens at both Chelsea and Hampton Court Palace. You can listen to Steve on alternate Sundays 10am-2pm on BBC Radio Kent’s Sunday Gardening (BBC Local) knowledge, no lobbying organisations have offered to help fund research into peat alternatives. The testing is continuous A wide range of materials have been trialled and continue to be tested, with varying degrees of success. Many lack consistency, meaning the compost will vary from batch to batch throughout the season and from year to year. This can be due to manufacturers continuing to fine-tune their products, or the availability and cost of the ingredients. What material options are there? Materials being trialled include; animal waste (manure), bark (shredded or milled), coconut waste (coir), chopped straw, green waste, loam (sterilised), sand and wood waste (chipped, fibres or shredded). Some are composted - and the longer the composting process, the better it is for most materials, such as green waste. However, this does little to reduce the effects of chemical contamination. Conifer bark needs to be composted to reduce the effects of chemical compounds that can be harmful to plant roots. Other organic materials such as coir need to be washed to remove salt residues before being transported vast distances across the world, so hardly an environmentally sound arrangement. Possible benefits of peat-free composts for gardeners Once the best materials are found, there may be benefits to using peat-free aside from environmental ones. There may be improved control of root diseases: peatfree mixes can provide more oxygen around the root system and are less able to become waterlogged. These open, free-draining composts often encourage a better root structure. The open nature of some composts can provide more oxygen, which can improve biological activity, such as mycorrhizal growth. That said, it can be disconcerting to see fungal structures emerging on the compost surface. „ AG’s gardening Editor Ruth Hayes is currently trialling two different peat-free brands, the wool-based Dalefoot and the bark-based Sylvagrow. She will update readers on her progress in her weekly practical pages Problems with peat free for camellias and rhododendrons The danger is that peat-free compost mixes that look just like peat. but behave very differently and, if you treat this compost like peat, you will have problems. Unlike peat, some of the key ingredients of peat-free mixes have a relatively high pH, which makes growing some plants more difficult, particularly popular lime-haters such as Camellias and Rhododendrons. Challenge for seed propagation Some mixes have registered very high saline levels, resulting in poor germination and plant establishment. This is particularly important where composts have been stored, even for short periods. Many of these blended mixtures can be quite coarse and are not suitable for propagation, especially seed sowing and young plant raising. The watering regime may be quite different to any you are familiar with. Where the compost has an open structure, it will need more frequent watering and higher levels of fertiliser on a more frequent basis, as it washes through more quickly. Surface capping, where a hardened crust forms on the surface of the compost and obstructs water penetration, can lead to the upper layer of the compost looking dry, but the layers underneath may be saturated. These are the challenges we will face when the ban comes into force. Fungus appearing in samples of peat-free compost “Some mixes have registered very high saline levels” Future

Loved by gardeners, florists and pollinators, umbellifers are the frothy favourites that add a natural feel to borders and bouquets. Camilla Phelps reveals the best to try I NSPIRED by hazy childhood memories of running through drifts of cow parsley in early summer, I have a lifelong passion for umbellifers. Probably the first plant name I ever learned, cow parsley (also known, rather more charmingly, as Queen Anne’s lace) is officially a weed. Nevertheless, it epitomises the charms of umbelliferous plants: tall and airy, with finely cut foliage and flower heads made up of many tiny blooms. Umbels are hugely fashionable right now, their appeal driven by a combination of natural good looks and the fact that they attract pollinating insects. There are many varieties available for growing in your garden, such as annuals, which can be sown now, as well as perennials and biennials. Many flower in early summer, but some appear later in the season. The frothy blooms of umbellifers make great fillers in mixed borders; use them as part of a meadow-style planting scheme or wildlife border. And they are a must if you have a cutting patch – umbellifers look perfect in a homegrown, country-style arrangement. Even if you are strapped for space you can include shorter umbellifers in summer containers to create a living bouquet in a pot. Unlikely relations Previously, these plants were collectively known as Umbelliferae, but now they are botanically members of the Apiaceae family. Looking at this vast family tree, you find a few surprise relatives, including the humble carrot. Explore beneath the soil, however, and the connection becomes more obvious as many umbelliferous plants have strong tap roots (and if you’ve ever let a carrot or parsnip go to seed, you’ll know that the flowers have similar characteristics to more sophisticated species such as Orlaya). Other members of the Apiaceae family include herbs (chervil, dill, fennel), which are grown more for their feathery, aromatic foliage than their flowers. Aside from the ornamental carrot (Daucus carota), which is very attractive in its own right, there are many fantastic cultivated umbellifers. These cousins won’t run amok like unruly cow parsley; nor are they as easily mistaken for the toxic hemlock plant Cicuta virosa. Favoured by garden designers at Chelsea, umbelliferous plants have also been popularised by florists. In particular, Ammi majus and A. visagna have become firm favourites, with new varieties bred to last longer in the vase. In the garden or cut for the house, umbellifers are a true delight – and very easy to grow from seed. They are definitely worth making space for. The frothy blooms of Ammi majus are ideal for naturalistic schemes and cottage gardens, while Eryngium giganteum (Miss Willmott’s Ghost, inset) has a spiky, architectural appeal 24 AMATEUR GARDENING 29 APRIL 2023 Light and airyUmbellifers Where to buy* Chiltern seeds  chilternseeds.co.uk 01491 824675 Hardy’s Cottage Garden Plants  hardysplants.co.uk 01256 896533 Kings Seeds  kingsseeds.com 01376 570000 Nicky’s Nursery  nickys-nursery.co.uk 01843 600972 Sarah Raven  sarahraven.com 0345 092 0283 (calls as per 01/02 numbers) *Note: not all retailers will stock all varieties, you may have to contact more than one of the above-mentioned.

29 APRIL 2023 AMATEUR GARDENING 25 All photographs Shutterstock unless otherwise credited 9 umbellifers to plant Orlaya grandiflora AGM A hardy annual producing masses of pure white umbels. Good for cutting and easy to grow from seed – sow in March or April for a summer showing, or in August for the following year. HxS: 1½ftx22in (45x55cm). Ammi majus ‘Snowflake’ Easy from seed; sow directly in spring or get ahead in autumn for bigger plants and a longer flowering season. Bred to be tall and robust, the strong stems make this a useful addition to vases. HxS: 4ftx16in (1.2mx40cm). Anthriscus sylvestris ‘Ravenswing’ The delicate white umbels are set off beautifully by dark-purplish stems and leaves. Plants will thrive in sun or part shade in most soils, but they are shortlived and won’t come true from seed. HxS: 2½x2ft (75x60cm). Pimpinella major ‘Rosea’ Pink-flushed flowerheads are carried on strong stems in early to midsummer, giving an effect very similar to cow parsley. Great for cutting and arranging. Sow direct in autumn, or indoors at any time. HxS: 24inx2ft (80x60cm). Bupleurum rotundifolium ‘Griffithii’ Similar to alchemilla or euphorbia, this variety of our native hare’s ear has yellowish-green flowers – tiny umbels surrounded by petal-like bracts. Sow fresh seed in April, for flowers in July and August. HxS: 2x1ft (60x30cm). Angelica gigas Very dramatic globe-shaped, ruby-red flowers on tall, dark-red stems. Biennial; produces foliage the first year, then flowers and sets seed in the second. Pollinated by wasps, so plant away from seating areas. HxS: 4x2ft (1.2mx60cm). Astrantia major ‘Ruby Giant’ Combines striking ruby-red ‘pincushion’ flowers with dark-green leaves. A reliable and long-flowering perennial that is very popular – and deservedly so. Good for clay soils and semi-shady locations. HxS: 2ftx20in (60x50cm). Chilternseeds.co.uk Didiscus caeruleus The blue lace flower, also known as Trachymene coerulea, produces brightblue, slightly scented umbels on long stems in summer. Good in a naturalistic scheme and ideal for cutting. Sow direct in April-May. H&S: 2ft (60cm). Classics Unexpected Eryngium giganteum AGM Surprised to find this thistle among umbelliferous plants? A member of the Apiaceae family, it has white flowerheads in summer and, in the right conditions, will self-seed. Try ‘Silver Ghost’ (pictured). HxS: 2ftx16in (60x40cm). Alamy Alamy Alamy

26 AMATEUR GARDENING 29 APRIL 2023 Plant umbellifers with... Planting and growing Many umbelliferous plants are annuals and are easy to grow from seed: simply sow directly into warm soil in April. Alternatively, you can get a head start with autumn-sown plants that will be ready to plant out in spring. Cut back after flowering, or allow plants to self-seed. More robust types can be left as striking winter silhouettes. Eryngiums look arresting in the colder months The best planting companions have contrasting shapes and textures, both in the flowers and foliage, as well as flowering times that will precede or follow on from those lovely lacy blooms Paeonia lactiflora ‘Duchesse de Nemours’ AGM An all-white combination always makes a chic, elegant statement and this double-flowered peony looks gorgeous growing in a mixed border alongside Orlaya grandiflora. HxS: 32inx2ft (80x60cm). Delphinium King Arthur Group Statuesque spires of darkblue blooms with white centres are a colourful companion for tall but airy Ammi Majus – an ideal partnership for a cottage garden. The delphiniums will need slug protection. HxS: 4ftx39in (1.2x1m). Papaver rhoeas ‘Pandora’ There are many poppies that will complement umbellifers. Try long-flowering purple-flushed ‘Pandora’ in a mixed border with Anthriscus sylvestris ‘Ravenswing’ and Astrantia major. HxS: 2x1ft (60x30cm). Centaurea montana ‘Purple Heart’ With a long flowering season, this striking perennial cornflower would be a great addition to a cottage-gardenstyle mix that also features Astrantia major and Eryngium giganteum. HxS: 1½x2ft (45x60cm). Kingsseeds.com Lupinus ‘The Chatelaine’ For contrasting shape and texture with a complementary pastel palette, combine tall, ice-creampink lupins with frothy Pimpinella major ‘Rosea’ The romantic result will look wonderful in early summer. HxS: 3x2½ft (90x75cm). Alamy Alamy Alamy Alamy

The sea carrot (Daucus carota subsp. gummifer) has pink buds that open into light and airy white umbels

28 AMATEUR GARDENING 29 APRIL 2023 I F you’re looking for a cheery shot of summer colour, annual sunflowers (Helianthus annuus) take some beating. They’re also easy to grow from seed, which makes the very tall, single-stemmed varieties such as ‘Russian Giant’ and ‘Kong’ – with their huge flower heads in sunshine yellow – firm favourites with children aiming to grow a record-breaker. But there’s a lot more to this plant than cultivating giants. You can get dwarf sunflowers (perfect for container growing or planting at the front of a border), midheight types that look good mixed in among perennials, and taller varieties that are ideal for the back of a border. While classic sunflowers have a single ring of bright-yellow petals around a central disc, there are a surprising number of different flower types, too, from semi-doubles with a few extra layers of petals to doubles with huge, frilly blooms. And when it comes to colours, it’s not all yellow. Options range from dark reds, rusty oranges and pale yellows to creamy white, either singly or in vibrant two-tone mixes. Multi-stemmed types Anyone aiming to grow a giant should go for a single-stemmed variety – it will put all its energy into producing one solitary bloom atop a colossal stalk. But for a mass of flowers all summer long, choose from the multi-stemmed, branching sunflower varieties. Some helianthus have been bred to be pollen-free; this can be a useful characteristic if you want to cut them for flower arranging, as the pollen has a tendency to drop once the flowers are picked, making a mess. However, sterile flowers are a controversial topic because breeding plants to be pollenfree makes them less useful sources of food for bees. Double flowers are also problematic as their many layers of petals make it difficult (in some cases, impossible) for bees and butterflies to access the pollen and nectar. And remember: it’s not just gardeners who love sunflowers. In late autumn and winter, the seedheads can be a vital food source for hungry birds. Leave the spent flowerheads on the Helianthus flowers come in a variety of shades, but for a mood-lifting hit of instant sunshine you can’t beat the classic yellow Cheerful and charming Sunflowers From skyscraping stems to container-friendly options – all in a range of warm colours – it’s little wonder that helianthus are hot favourites for late summer, says Louise Curley

29 APRIL 2023 AMATEUR GARDENING 29 6 cracking sunflowers ‘Velvet Queen’ An opulent sunflower with rays of petals in a coppery-bronze or deep, rich red, plus dark-brown centres that are speckled with golden pollen. Produces multiple branches and medium-sized flowerheads. HxS: 5ftx20in (1½mx50cm). ‘Vanilla Ice’ A bushy plant covered in masses of creamy-white flowers throughout summer and into autumn. With slender stems and small flower heads, ‘Vanilla Ice’ is another excellent option for cutting. HxS: 4x1½ft (1.2mx45cm). ‘Double Dandy’ This eye-catching recent introduction has peachy-coloured petals burnished with coppery tones. Some flowers feature an extra ring of smaller petals; others a shaggy ruff around the centre. Multi-branched. HxS: 2x1½ft (60x45cm). ‘Ms Mars’ Purple-tinged foliage, stems and flower buds combine in this striking option. A single ring of dark-pink petals, fading to pale pink or cream at the tips, encircles a dark-red middle. Vigorous and floriferous. HxS: 2x1ft (60x30cm). ‘Magic Roundabout’ Tall and airy; long, narrow stems are topped with bicoloured blooms in a range of coffee and cream tones. The dainty feel and pollen-free flowers make this variety great for adding to indoor arrangements. HxS: 6x1½ft (1.8mx45cm). All photographs Alamy unless otherwise credited Thompson-morgan.com ‘Valentine’ AGM Delicate and lovely, with pretty primroseyellow petals surrounding a black centre. A good choice for cut flowers (or for planting in a mixed border), thanks to its multi-branched, slender stems. HxS: 5ftx18in (1½mx45cm). plant so the seeds can ripen, then let the birds help themselves. Or, if you prefer a less messy approach, once ripe, remove the seedheads from the stalks and suspend them from the branches of a tree. You can also lay them on your bird table. Where to buy* Chiltern Seeds  chilternseeds.co.uk 01491 824675 Nicky’s Nursery  nickys-nursery.co.uk 01843 600972 Sarah Raven  sarahraven.com 0345 092 0283 (costs as per 01/02 numbers) Unwins  unwins.co.uk 0844 573 8400 (calls cost 7p per minute) Shutterstock Sarahraven.com *Note: not all retailers will stock all varieties, you may have to contact more than one of the above-mentioned. Suttons.co.uk Mr-Fothergills.co.uk

‘Teddy Bear’ AGM Features unusual pompom-like flowerheads that are packed with thousands of golden-yellow petals. Its short stature is ideal for containers, but the double flowers mean it’s not a good choice for bees. HxS: 20inx1ft (50x30cm). More surprising sunflowers Harlequin Mixed Two-tone flowers in a vibrant and unusual selection of pinks, oranges and yellows, held on branching stems. Pollen-free, the blooms are good for cutting; less so for attracting and feeding pollinating insects. HxS: 4ftx16in (1.2mx40cm). ‘Dwarf Yellow Spray’ Golden-yellow petals form a ring around a copperyellow middle. Short and compact enough for growing in containers, or suitable for a low hedge. A good choice for gardens where wind is an issue. HxS: 2x1½ft (60x45cm). Compact choices for containers ‘Firecracker’ Flame-like petals in tones of rusty-orange fading to golden-yellow, on compact, low-growing, well-branched plants – just the thing for brightening up a sunny patio. The pollen-free blooms will appear over a long period. HxS: 2x1ft (60x30cm). ‘Choco Sun’ A fast-growing, very small sunflower with classic single blooms in bright-yellow with dark centres. Grow in pots, or try planted as a low, flowering hedge. Multi-branched, it will keep on flowering over a long period. H&S: 1ft (30cm). ‘Santa Lucia’ Fantastic flowering ability, the dazzling flowers on branching stems keep on coming from June to October. Perfect for dramatic container display, this variety is available as plants. HxS: 2x2ft (60x60cm) 30 AMATEUR GARDENING 29 APRIL 2023 Thompson-morgan.com Shutterstock

‘Sun Fill Green’ A dramatic green sunflower that has been bred for the cut-flower trade. The small green blooms, 3-4in (8-10cm) in diameter, are made up of green spiky sepals rather than petals, and are held on single stems. Very striking. HxS: 5ftx16in (1½mx40cm). Seed sowing and aftercare Slugs and snails love young plants, so it’s wise to start sunflowers off in 3½in (9cm) pots of multi-purpose compost rather than to sow direct. Sow two seeds per pot; water and label. If both germinate, remove the weaker one. Harden off before planting out. Medium-to-tall varieties need staking – use stout bamboo canes or hazel beanpoles; tie in with twine. Combinations to try A medium-branching sunflower like ‘Valentine’ looks lovely with the feathery foliage of bronze fennel and the tall stems of Verbena bonariensis. Fill a container with a dwarf sunflower such as ‘Solar Flash’, and blue-and-white lobelia. Dahlias are great with sunflowers. The dark colours of ‘Velvet Queen’ look particularly good with vibrant-orange dahlias (try ‘David Howard’) and the red and rusty colours of crocosmias and heleniums. TI Archive IN recent years, an increasing number of sunflower varieties have been bred to be pollen-free. These can be divisive, and there are reasons both for and against growing them: For: They’re great for cutting as there’s no pollen to make a mess of furniture and floors, and they have a longer vase life. Harden off before planting out 29 APRIL 2023 AMATEUR GARDENING 31 Pollen-free: the pros and cons For: It has been suggested that these sunflowers are good for allergy sufferers; however, tree and grass pollen are the main culprits of hay fever. Against: They produce fewer seeds so are less bird-friendly than non-sterile options. Against: Pollen is essential for bees as it’s their main source of protein. ‘Solar Flash’ partners well with lobelia in a pot Shutterstock

Graham Rice lists his top ten currants and gooseberries CURRANTS, both flowering and fruiting, are sometimes described as idiot-proof. I’m not sure I’d go quite that far, but both kinds really are easy to grow, the closely related gooseberries, too. In most gardens you’ll get colourful spring flowers and summer berries bursting with flavour, all with little special care. Even the varieties that are not quite top notch, or that have been around for decades, will bring you bright colours or prolific crops. However, as ever, you cannot go wrong choosing varieties that have the accolade of the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit. Awarded after the RHS has grown all available varieties side-by-side, and assessed them over a number of years, look for the RHS cup symbol. Botanically, they’re all ribes There are about 200 different species of currants and gooseberries, gathered under the scientific name of Ribes. Four species are British natives, some grow wild in other parts of Europe or Asia, many more are North American natives and some grow naturally in South America. All mature into small or medium-sized, mostly deciduous shrubs, all flower in the spring and develop berries in the summer – to gardeners, the big difference is that the flowering currants are showy when in bloom, with pendulous clusters of red, pink or white flowers, while fruiting currants are not. Conversely, fruiting currants tend to be unremarkable in flower, but the crop of juicy berries weighs down the branches. Both flowering and fruiting currants not only share these basic qualities, but also share the need for a sunny site. Flowering currants Although all currants share the same basic flower structure, superficially they can look very different. The most widely grown flowering currant is Ribes sanguineum, and when flowering currants are discussed this usually the one people have in mind. In April, its pendulous clusters of flowers in red or pink, plus white, open at about the same time as the foliage, lining the branches and turning to stand upright as they develop. The black berries that follow are 6mm in diameter. Others grown for their flowers include R. speciosum with flowers like those of fuchsias, R. odoratum with clusters of golden flowers, and R. x beatonii with red buds opening to yellow flowers. Fruiting currants Blackcurrants (R. nigrum), redcurrants (R. rubrum), whitecurrants (a whiteberried form of redcurrant) and gooseberries (R. uva-crispa) are all fruiting currants. Gooseberries are set apart by the long, sharp spine that develops at each leaf joint and which infuriates gardeners at harvest time. While birds are attracted to the fruits of flowering currants, and will spread the seeds, the larger fruits of fruiting varieties, and of gooseberries (in spite of the thorns) are more popular and the harvest can be ruined by hungry birds. The flowering currant is a charming, low-maintenance shrub that forms hanging clusters of trumpet flowers in spring. Ribes sanguineum ‘Koja’ has pinky-red flowers Flowering and fruiting currants and gooseberries Top Ten 32 AMATEUR GARDENING 29 APRIL 2023 Whitecurrant ‘White Versailles’ produces a heavy crop from July

6 flowering currants All photographs Alamy unless otherwise credited 29 APRIL 2023 AMATEUR GARDENING 33 What’s good about currants Q Tough flowering shrubs and fruit bushes that are adaptable and easy to grow. Q Will bloom well even if never pruned. Q Dependable flower clusters in red, pink, white or gold. Q Fruiting varieties are prolific. Q The berries have many uses in the kitchen and for summer drinks, and are full of vitamins and other nutrients. Q Careful variety choice brings a long cropping season. Q All can be kept to a comfortable size by pruning. Where to buy* Ashbridge Nurseries  ashridgetrees.co.uk 01963 359445 Ashwood Nurseries  ashwoodnurseries.com 01384 401996 Crocus  crocus.co.uk 01344 578 000 James Mcintyre  james-mcintyre.co.uk 01250 873135 Pomona Fruits  pomonafruits.co.uk 01255 440410 Ribes sanguineum ‘Poky’s Pink’ AGM Assessed to be the best pink-flowered variety by the RHS, the blushed flowers are a very pretty soft shade and packed into colourful clusters. Less vigorous than most and noticeably upright in growth. Good for: Pretty pastel spring display. Good with: Pale-yellow daffodils. Hardiness: RHS H6. Height: 5ft 3in-6ft (1.6-1.8m). Also try: ‘Albidum’ is blushed white, and earlier flowering ‘Lombartsii’ has large, rose-pink, white-eyed flowers. Ribes odoratum Richly scented of cloves, the partially pendulous clusters of striking goldenyellow flowers open in April. These are followed by small black berries and by fine autumn foliage colour. Along with R. sanguineum, this species leads the way in impact. Good for: Colourful flowers in an unexpected colour. Good with: Silver-leaved brunneras around the base. Hardiness: RHS H6. Height: 6ft (1.8m). Also known as: Ribes aureum. Ribes speciosum AGM The fuchsia-flowered currant has red pendulous flowers that swing in clusters of up to five in April and May. The whole plant, including the 12mm red berries, is covered in bristles. Less hardy than most. Good for: A sunny wall, pruned after flowering to show off the flowers. Good with: Dark-leaved euphorbias such as Blackbird (‘Nothowlee’). Hardiness: RHS H4. Height: 3ft 3in (1m). Also try: Nothing else like it. *Note: not all retailers will stock all varieties, you may have to contact more than one of the above-mentioned. Ribes x beatonii This intriguing, very cold-tolerant hybrid has red and yellow flowers opening from deep-red buds and taking on some almost peachy tones in between. Both flowers and foliage are aromatic. Developed from R. sanguineum and R. odoratum. Good for: The very coldest parts of the country. Good as: Host for bees and other pollinators. Hardiness: RHS H6. Height: 5ft (1.5m). Also known as: Ribes x gordonianum. Ribes sanguineum ‘King Edward VII’ Vigorous bushy plants carry strings of intense crimson-red flowers in late March and April. A little shorter than most varieties, so better suited to small spaces. Good for: Dramatic spring flowering display. Good with: Forsythia – makes an eye-watering combination. Hardiness: RHS H6. Height: 6ft (1.8m). Also try: ‘Koja’ is similar but shorter still. ‘Pulborough Scarlet’ is stronger growing, both with similar dark red flowers. Ribes sanguineum White Icicle AGM Also called ‘Ubric’, the white flowers with no hint of pink open earlier than most varieties on upright growth. Vigorous, sometimes producing long, strong growth, but responds well to pruning. Good for: A snowfall-in-spring flowering effect. Good with: A blue-flowered Clematis alpina that flowers at about the same time. Hardiness: RHS H6. Height: 2.0-2.5m. Also try: ‘Elkington’s White’ is similar but bushier and less prolific.

Q What is big bud? BIG bud is a two-problems-in-one issue. A microscopic insect, a mite, eats its way into a bud and then munches through the embryonic leaves within, causing the bud to appear swollen. Sometimes most of the buds on a shoot will be infected resulting in the loss of most of the crop. The mites also cause another problem – they carry a virus-like mycoplasma disease known as reversion. This weakens plants, often resulting in greatly reduced fruit yields. There is no treatment for big bud, so it pays to prune out any branches with unusually fat, round buds as soon as they are spotted. A resistant variety is ‘Ben Hope’. 34 AMATEUR GARDENING 29 APRIL 2023 TI Archive Frequently asked questions 4 fruiting currants and gooseberries Gooseberry ‘Invicta’ AGM This green-fruited gooseberry crops heavier than others, with excellent mildew resistance. Can be eaten fresh from the plant when ripe. Grows well on wires. Good for: Impressive crops, disease resistance. Hardiness: RHS H6. Height: 5ft (1.5m). Also try: Thornless ‘Captivator’, ‘Pax’ or ‘Xenia’. Redcurrant ‘Jonkheer van Tets’ AGM The first redcurrant variety to ripen, the bright glistening fruits come in huge clusters and have a fine flavour. Crops surprisingly well in a little shade. Good for: Early and reliable cropping, and ideal when grown as a cordon. Hardiness: RHS H6. Height: 4ft (1.2m). Also try: Other RHS Award of Garden Merit-winning varieties ‘Red Lake’, ‘Rovada’ and ‘Stanza’. Blackcurrant ‘Ben Connan’ AGM An early variety with clusters of large fruits in great numbers. Early to ripen, and the heaviest cropper, growth is neater than some older varieties and disease resistance is good. Good for: Heavy crops, pest and disease resistance. Hardiness: RHS H6. Height: 4ft (1.2m). Also try: Pest-resistant ‘Ben Hope’. Whitecurrant ‘Blanka’ AGM Heavier cropping, earlier to ripen, with a better flavour than other whitecurrants, and less acid than redcurrants so can be eaten fresh from the bush as well as cooked. Becoming recognised as the standard whitecurrant and prized for its dual use. Good for: Flavour, heavy crop. Hardiness: RHS H6. Height: 5ft (1.5m). Also try: ‘White Grape’, ‘White Versailles’. Buds affected with a mite appear swollen Growing currants Q Grow all currants in full sun, in fertile, well-drained soil. Q Both flowering and fruiting currants will also grow in a little shade but may be less prolific. Q Avoid planting fruiting varieties in frosty corners as the flowers may be damaged and the crop reduced. Q Prune flowering varieties straight after flowering, and prune fruiting varieties promptly after picking. Q Use netting, or a fruit cage, to prevent birds stealing the fruit crop. Q Feed in late winter with a general fertiliser. Q Mulch in spring, after feeding. Q Make more currants by taking hardwood cuttings in winter. Prune fruiting currants after picking Shutterstock TI Archive Q Are currants fragrant? WELL, yes and no. A few varieties have a rich fragrance, while in some the scent is less appealing. The best fragrance comes from R. odoratum, sometimes known as the buffalo currant and sold as R. aureum, with powerful, sweetly clove-like pungence. The widely grown flowering currant, R. sanguineum has a powerful smell although ‘fragrant’ is not really the word. In fact it smells of cats – but that is not as bad as it sounds. Grow R. sanguineum on a fence, or at the back of the border, and the smell will not be apparent. Blackcurrants, and R. odoratum, have foliage with a blackcurrant aroma when crushed. Ribes odoratum is a worthy choice for scent and impact

Reliable redcurrant ‘Stanza’ AGM crops heavily and grows well in any aspect

36 AMATEUR GARDENING 29 APRIL 2023 Ask JOHN NEGUS John will reply personally to all your gardening questions QCan I use Roundup gel to get rid of bluebells that are starting to take over my garden. If not, what else can I use? Valarie Dunne (via email) The best way to beat bluebells QI have an old mahonia that needs pruning. How and when should I do this? Peter Levick (via email) A Mahonias are best pruned in spring after flowering so now is the right time to do it. They tolerate hard pruning, so if you were thinking of something drastic your plant should take it well, though I would advise caution if this is the first time drastic pruning has been undertaken. The advice given by the RHS is that ‘old plants usually respond slowly, but satisfactorily, when cut back to a low framework 12-24in (30-60cm) from ground level’, so this is quite feasible. However, if you can spread the process over two years it might take away any risk of the plant struggling to recover. Aim to prune away no more than onethird to one-half of the plant in the first How and when do I prune my mahonia? Aprettyarrival Pink purslane is an attractive carpeting flower Grape concerns AI am sorry that bluebells are becoming a nuisance. As weedkillers have no effect upon this plant, the best way to clear them is to dig them up. However, as bulbs are often 6in (15cm) or more deep, it requires effort and patience to remove them. I suggest that you use a border or digging fork to achieve this. If you merely break off stems, bulbs will regrow. Alternatively, cover plants with a weed-proof membrane and keep it in place for at least a year. No light means no growth. Though bluebells are resistant to herbicides, you might find that Roundup Gel may answer your need to eradicate them. Simply dab stems and leaves with this. All photographs Alamy unless otherwise credited QThis pretty plant is growing in a shady corner of the garden. Can you tell me what it is? Pat Austin (via email) AThe wildflower that has appeared in your garden is pink purslane (Montia sibirica). Introduced from North America and north-east Asia, it has become naturalised in Britain. A very pretty plant and a questing carpetter, it favours sandy, acid soil and romps in light shade. I urge you to keep it and enjoy it. Gall mites can attack the leaves of grape vines QEvery year the leaves on my ‘Black Hamburg’ grape vine develop blisters. Is there something I can spray it with or is it fine to leave them? Shirley Fielden, Dorset A Unfortunately, your grape vine has been attacked by a gall mite specific to this plant. Thankfully, it has no adverse effect upon vigour or cropping. There are no chemical or nonchemical controls for this microscopic pest. All you can do is cut off and bin or burn affected foliage. I suggest that you cut off only the worst affected foliage. Prune mahonias in spring when they have finished flowering year. This could be taking some of the older stems back to 12-24in (30-60cm) above ground level, leaving the remaining stems unpruned, or it could be taking height off right across the plant. Or it could be a mixture – perhaps taking one or two stems right back, some back to a point where younger growth has developed lower down, and some taking the tops out of the stems. The advice I was given as a student was ‘look twice, cut once’, so take a bit of time to imagine how the plant will look with stems removed or reduced and try to keep a picture of the whole plant in mind when making decisions. Having pruned the shrub, it will benefit from feeding with a general-purpose fertiliser. Bluebells can be invasive if you’re not careful

I’m in despair over ground elder QI have a bed with hostas and spring bulbs that are about to flower, but the soil is full of ground elder. What can I do about it? Michael Frost, Reading, Berkshire AI am sorry that your hostas and late spring bulbs are entangled with ground elder – not a happy prospect. For the moment, I urge you to eradicate the weed by spot-treating it with Weedol Rootkill Plus. Based on glyphosate, a systemic herbicide that doesn’t contaminate the soil and is translocated in the vascular system to all parts of the plant, results can be seen within a day or so. Then, in November, when your hostas and bulbs have died back for winter, lift them carefully and tease out ground elder roots from the root systems of your hostas and bulbs, and replant them. It is also an opportunity to replant any tall varieties of bulbs elsewhere in the garden where they can grow to full height without crowding out, and being crowded by, the hostas. Reversion is a common problem in variegated plants Why is my variegated acer turning green? Q We have a variegated acer and in the past couple of years one branch has started to produce plain green leaves. What is going on? Trevor Morris (via email) AThe plain-green leaves are a reversion back to the parentage of the plant. Variegated leaves are not ‘normal’ and the variegation has been maintained by vegetative propagation (cuttings or grafting rather than seed). Sometimes part of a variegated plant will throw up growth more like one or other of its parents. It is not known exactly why but it is often in response to some environmental or other influence and is basically a mutation. Most mutations are random and are a result of a change within the cells of the plant, but cold weather, temperature fluctuations, insect damage, UV light, radiation and some chemicals can sometimes trigger mutations. It is a good idea to remove the reverted stem back to its origin because it will be much more vigorous than the rest of the tree, due to having larger leaves and more chlorophyll. If it is a very young stem (this year’s growth) you might be able to remove it by pulling it away from the branch from which it has grown – this would be ideal as it is most likely to get rid of all the cells associated with the mutation. However, an older stem will need to be 29 APRIL 2023 AMATEUR GARDENING 37 Future QCan you identify this scented honeysuckle, please? Vic and Lynda Clare (via email) AIt appears to be a hybrid – Lonicera x italica. Resulting from a cross between L. caprifolium and L. etrusca, it was first recorded around 1730. Famed for its vigour and scent, it was honoured with an RHS Award of Garden Merit in 1937. Quickquestions &answers QCan I use last year’s growbag compost in this year’s pots? Andy Sherwood, Kettering, Northants AIt is best not to use the old compost, as last year’s plants will have drained it of nutrients and it may contain pests, such as vine weevil grubs, and diseases. However, you can lay it on your borders to add extra goodness. Q What are these white things on my euonymus leaves? Dave McDougal (via email) AYour plant is infested with scale insects, a debilitating sap-feeding pest. The best way to control them is to spray with Bug Clear Ultra, a systemic insecticide that protects growth from attack for about three weeks. Contact John Negus by email address below Email: [email protected] cut away, as close to its base as physically possible. Remove other signs of reverted growth as quickly as possible. Ground elder is a pernicious weed that needs digging up and removing Future

38 AMATEUR GARDENING 29 APRIL 2023 Ask JOHN NEGUS John will reply personally to all your gardening questions QI have a new garden and want to grow plants for bees and butterflies. What are the best varieties to choose? Peter Browne (via email) AIt is always lovely to create a wildlife sanctuary. Small, accommodating and fetching perennial food plants for bees are: crocus, sage, lungwort (pulmonaria), lavender ‘Munstead’, alyssum, chives, thyme, lupin, bluebell, dwarf Michaelmas daisies and rock rose. Colourful summer-bedding annuals include cornflower, clarkia, godetia, candytuft, French marigold, larkspur, lobelia, nasturtium and coreopsis. If you are also keen to encourage butterflies into your garden, choice nectar-rich food plants for winged adults are as follows: Michaelmas daises, candytuft, verbena, forget-menot, lilac, scabious, petunia, heliotrope, mignonette, pinks and thyme. Which plants are bestfor insects? QI have been given a ginger lily that is currently in my conservatory. It is tall and looks healthy, but how should I look after it? Pauline Lyons, Doncaster, South Yorks A Hedychium should be grown in fertile compost such as John Innes No3. It is recommended that they be kept at a minimum of 7ºC (45ºF) during the winter but in a sheltered spot they do survive short periods of cold weather outside. When growth first appears in March they should be watered sparingly, increasing the amount as growth progresses. They will appreciate liquid feeding every 10-14 days during spring and summer. In late autumn and winter plants should be kept barely moist. At this point the top growth will die away and the plant will overwinter by its tuberous roots. The natural flowering period for Hedychium is late summer, so I’m afraid you have a bit longer to wait yet. However, the fact that the stems have grown tall is good as it means the plant is healthy and doing what it is supposed to. As it grows, you might consider potting it into a larger pot, or if this would make it too heavy to move around then you could plunge the whole pot into the ground for the summer, somewhere slightly sheltered from the wind, and with plenty of sunshine. You could then dig it up to bring indoors when the cool weather arrives in the autumn. Advice for growing healthy ginger lilies Eggs for tomatoes Calcium helps prevent blossom end rot in tomatoes Lemon destroyer Getty QIs it true that crushed eggshells added to compost help to grow healthier tomatoes? Bernice Taylor (via email) AIt’s a new one to use, but it is true that eggshells contain calcium, which benefits healthy plant growth. A lack of calcium can cause blossom end rot in tomatoes, so eggshells may help reduce it. You can also help your tomatoes by watering evenly so nutrients are smoothly carried around the plants. Caterpillars will often munch lemon leaves QOur lemon plant survived winter in our lean-to, but can you tell me what is eating its leaves? Ed Davis (via email) AI fear that caterpillars are nibbling your lemon plant leaves. It is not unusual for them to elude discovery. I suggest that you control them with Py Bug Killer. Be aware that there is a seven-day interval between applying the insecticide and harvesting fruits. Additionally, because your plant will have been weakened by the attack, boost its vigour by dosing it with a highpotash liquid tomato fertiliser, weekly, from now until September. Ginger lilies like a warm spot and can go outside in summer Pulmonaria will attract a number of insects, including bees Future Future Future

29 APRIL 2023 AMATEUR GARDENING 39 Q My compost heap is full but everything in it is really sloppy and wet – is this because we had so much rain over the winter? John Coles, Sheffield Why is my compost heap sloppy? AThe best compost comes from a mix of nitrogen-rich materials (grass clippings, raw vegetables, green leafy shoots) and carbon-rich materials (cardboard, woody stems, vegetable stalks, autumn leaves). Ideally, these need to be mixed together and it helps if you can chop up material before adding it to the heap. This is less important with nitrogen-rich material, but with anything tough the smaller you chop it up, the greater the surface area for the organisms that are essential to decomposition to work on. A good mix of ‘green’ and ‘brown’ materials makes the best compost QI love sweetcorn but don’t have much space so can I grow it in the same place as last year? Alice Davies (via email) AThough sweetcorn is best followed by root crops, you should still get a good crop if you sow it again in the same place. Provided you fortify the soil with composted manure and fertilise the crop at three-weekly intervals with a plant food, such as Vitax Q4, when it is growing strongly, it should reward you with an abundance of cobs. Sweetcorn is most successful in long hot summers, though many modern cultivars are better suited to our cooler climate. Sow indoors from now until early May in modules or deep pots – different varieties crop at different times, so if you sow several you will get a longer harvest. You can also sow outdoors in late spring once the soil is above 10ºC (50ºF). It will do best in a sunny, sheltered spot in soil that has been supplemented by lots of well-rotted manure or compost. Grow it in blocks, rather than rows, to ensure better wind pollination. Growing sweetcorn successfully Getty If you have a lot of one type of material, try to mix it with another to keep the air and moisture levels suitable. It is also beneficial to mix up the whole heap (once you have filled the bin) at least twice during the composting period. If the bin has a lid it will prevent the heap becoming too wet, but it may also cause the contents to dry out. Leave the lid off occasionally to allow rain in. Siting the compost bin on the soil is an excellent way for worms and other organisms (woodlice, beetles and so on) to move in to get the process started. Contact John Negus by email address below Email: [email protected] Mythicalbeauty Yellow asphodel is an attractive plant that can survive drought Tall pelargoniums Q What are these plants, please? Mark Broughton, Wem, Shropshire AThese are yellow asphodel (Asphodelus lutea). A native of the Balkan Peninsula and Aegean, it is mentioned in Greek mythology. A splendid drought resister, it performs best in organically rich soil in full sun. ‘Gelbkerse’, also known as ‘Yellow Candle’, is a seed-raised selection with longer flower spikes. Pinch out tall pelargoniums so they become bushy QSome of my pelargoniums are tall but flowering. Isn’t this a bit early? Andy Burrows, North Wales AYes, it is early, so sacrifice this flush of flowers and cut them back now, to help produce bushy plants with plenty of new flower buds. If you leave them tall they will soon become straggly and give a disappointing display in summer. Make sure that your plants are growing in a well-lit position, and encourage flowering by applying a high-potash fertiliser, such as tomato feed. If you refresh the soil, sweetcorn can be grown in the same place Getty

40 AMATEUR GARDENING 29 APRIL 2023 Trees and shrubs from seed Alan Toogood looks at propagating from seed, particularly trees and shrubs that can be raised under glass and in the open garden Alamy AG’s guide on how to save money by propagating plants RAISE & SAVE Propagating trees, shrubs, climbers and conifers by collecting and sowing seeds is one of the most satisfying ways of raising plants

29 APRIL 2023 AMATEUR GARDENING 41 S O far in this series I have been discussing vegetative methods of propagation: let us now look at raising plants from seeds. Trees, shrubs, alpines, hardy perennials, bulbs, half-hardy annuals and perennials, greenhouse and house plants, hardy annuals, biennials and vegetables can all be easily increased by this method. It is worth collecting seed of any true species plants in your garden because species come true to type from seed – the offspring will resemble their parents in every respect. It is not usual for gardeners to save seed of highly bred plants – hybrids, varieties and strains – as these do not come true to type from seed. With some plants, the offspring will be very different from their parents in habit or growth, shape of flower and so on, while others may, for instance, simply have differently coloured flowers. Many hardy and half-hardy annuals and perennials, biennials and vegetables are hybrids or strains with a very complex parentage and will not come true from home-saved seed. It is not necessary to provide artificial heat to raise all seeds – many kinds are sown outdoors. The table (see page 43) gives an idea of the wide range of trees, shrubs and conifers that can be raised from seed. Many species set large crops of seed, so this is a cheap method of acquiring new plants. Often seedlings grow into sizable plants, but subjects such as rhododendrons may take three or four years to reach flowering size. Q Collecting Most seed from trees and shrubs is ready in late summer and autumn. Collect seed only when it is ripe, just before the plants start shedding it. You can tell when the seed of berrying and fruiting trees and shrubs is ready for harvesting because the berries or fruits turn red, pink, yellow or whatever the natural colour is. Other subjects produce their seed in capsules or pods, and generally the seed is ready when these turn brown. Examples of plants that form capsules and pods are cytisus (brooms), colutea, laburnums, rhododendrons and hypericums. Often capsules and pods burst open when ripe and the seed is ejected over a wide area, so try to collect it before this occurs! The acers (maples), fraxinus (ash) and conifers such as pines produce winged seeds. With conifers the seeds are enclosed in a cone. Winged seeds generally turn brown before dispersal. Clematis produce plumed or feathery seed and the plumes turn silver when the seed is ripe. Try to collect seed when it is dry, on a warm sunny day. The seedheads and berries can be plucked or cut off and placed in paper or polythene bags. If you are collecting conifer seed, remove the entire cones. Q Drying The seed of some trees and shrubs, such those in dry capsules and pods, and plumed or winged seed, will need drying before it is stored. Lay the seedheads and pods on sheets of paper in a warm, sunny, well-ventilated place, such as a greenhouse bench or a windowsill indoors. In these conditions the seed will dry and finish ripening. Q Cleaning Once the seed is dry, the capsules and pods can be crushed or rubbed with the hands to release the seed. The seed must then be separated from other fragments (chaff) by sifting it through sieves with the appropriate sized mesh; it is possible to buy special seed sieves in a range of mesh sizes. Alternatively, the seed can be spread out on paper and the chaff blown away. Conifer seeds will not be released until the scales of the cones have fully opened. Often the scales will open if the cones are placed in a warm room for a few days, but some types of cones need to be placed in an oven at a temperature of 40-60°C for a few hours. When the scales are open, the seeds can be easily shaken out. With winged seeds, the wings may be removed when cleaning, provided you do not damage the seed, or they may be left intact. Q Storing After cleaning, the seeds are stored until sowing time in spring. They can be placed in envelopes, paper seed packets or linen bags for large quantities. Label containers with the This extract from AG 21 June 1975 is the seventh of a 12-part series on how to propagate a wide selection of indoor and outdoor plants. Note: peat will often be mentioned in these articles, and while many new peat-free alternatives are available, peat composts are still on sale for those who choose not to use peat-free. If using peat-free, please note that details of watering and nutrients will vary. Collected seed requires specific sowing treatments – broom (cytisus) are sown into pots of compost and given protection All photographs TI Archive unless otherwise credited Alamy

42 AMATEUR GARDENING 29 APRIL 2023 RAISE & SAVE Q Sowing under glass The seed of some trees and shrubs is sown in containers and germinated in a heated greenhouse or frame. Very fine or small seed, such as that of rhododendrons and hypericums, is best treated in this way. Other seed germinates better in warmer conditions, particularly that of camellia. Use pots or seed boxes, depending on the amount of seed to be sown. Place a layer of crocks (broken clay pots) in the bottom to assist drainage, and cover with a layer of roughage such as coarse peat. John Innes seed compost can be used for many subjects, but for ericaceous species like rhododendrons, azaleas, ericas and camellias, use pure moist sphagnum peat. To ensure you sow dust-like seed thinly and evenly, mix it with an equal amount of fine dry silver sand. Sow a light scattering of the seed/sand mixture on the surface of the compost and you should have a thin, even distribution of seed. Large seeds, such as those of cytisus, can be spaced out evenly by hand, about ½-3⁄4in (1-1.5cm) apart each way. Very fine seed like that of rhododendron should not be covered with compost as this will inhibit germination. Larger seeds should be covered with a layer of compost equal to the diameter of the seed. Stand the sown containers in water until the surface becomes moist, drain and stand on a bench in a greenhouse or frame. The containers may be covered with glass and paper. Turn the glass each day to prevent condensation dripping onto the compost, but keep the compost moist. Once the seed has germinated, remove the glass and paper and give maximum light. As soon as the seedlings are large whole lot in a tin of water for a few days. The pulp and light non-viable seeds will float; the viable heavy seeds will sink to the bottom. The water and pulp can then be drained off. The seeds (or seeds and pulp) are then mixed with one to three times their own volume of moist sand, and the mixture placed in tins with drainage holes in the base, or in pots. A 1in (2.5cm) layer of sand can be placed on top. Alternatively, single layers of seed can be placed between 1in (2.5cm) layers of moist sand in containers, finishing with a layer of sand on top. Label the container. Place the containers of seed in a cold, preferably northern, aspect outside to subject them to alternative freezing and thawing. Protect from birds and rodents. This stratification process will soften the hard seed coats and may last 6-18 months, depending on the species (see table opposite). After stratification, the seeds and sand are sown together. Q Direct sowing Seeds of some species, such as horse chestnut, oak and sweet chestnut, are best sown immediately after harvesting in autumn. However, most tree and shrub seeds can be sown outdoors in March or April. Prepare the seed beds beforehand by digging over the soil to the depth of a fork. If the ground is not well drained, make raised beds, about 3in (7.5cm) high. This will ensure better drainage. The surface of the bed should be firmed by treading and raked to produce a fine tilth. It helps to rake a general-purpose fertiliser at 105g per sq m (3oz per sq yd). Sow thinly in drills across the bed, spaced 6in (15cm) apart. Drills can be ¼-1⁄2in (0.5-1cm) deep, according to the size of the seed – small seeds should be sown less deeply than large ones. After sowing, cover the seed with fine soil or, preferably, with a layer of pea shingle as this prevents the surface of the bed drying out quickly in warm weather. Keep the seed bed moist and shade the seedlings from hot sun. The seedlings should remain in their beds until October or November, when they can be lifted with a fork. Then they can either be lined out 12in (30cm) apart in nursery beds to grow on, or you can plant them in their final positions in the garden. name of the plant and the date of collection. Store in a cool, dry, airy place but do not subject seed to frost. Seeds can also be stored in a refrigerator at a temperature of 1-5°C but must not freeze. I find that the seed of acers (maples), fraxinus (ash) and fagus (beech) keeps better if it is mixed with slightly moist peat, placed in polythene bags and stored in a fridge at 1-5°C. This method prevents the seeds drying out. Q Stratification Fleshy fruits and berries, such as those of cotoneaster, berberis, holly, sorbus (mountain ash), malus (crab apples) and prunus (ornamental cherries etc) need to be stored by a method known as stratification. This softens the hard seed coats and results in quicker and better germination when the seeds are sown. When you have gathered berries and fruits, macerate them to expose the seeds – spread them out on a bench or table and crush with a block of wood. It does not matter whether or not you separate the seeds from the pulp, but if you do want to separate them, place the To separate seed and pulp of fleshy fruits and berries, soak in water, and the viable heavy seeds will sink to the bottom Maple, ash and beech seed keeps better in plastic bags of moist peat stored just above freezing point Tree seeds can be sown direct in a well-drained seed bed, and covered with grit or shingle

29 APRIL 2023 AMATEUR GARDENING 43 Trees and shrubs that can be raised from seed Botanical Common Type Conditions Where name name for seed to sow „ In part 8 (AG 13 May) we look at raising hardy annuals, hardy biennials and easily grown vegetables from seed Abies Silverfirs C Cool, dry, airy place OSB Acer Maples T Mix with moist OSB peat, store in fridge at1-5°C Aesculus Horse chestnut T Sow straight after harvesting in autumn OSB Arbutus unedo Strawberry tree T Stratify for 6 months HGF Araucaria araucana Monkey puzzle C Cool, dry, airy place HGF Berberis Barberries S Stratify for 6 months OSB Camellia S Sow straight after harvesting HGF Castanea sativa Sweet chestnut T Sow straight after harvesting OSB Cedrus Cedars C Cool, dry, airy place OSB Chamaecyparis False cypress C Cool, dry, airy place OSB Clematis Cl Cool, dry, airy place Cold frame (slow germination) Colutea arborescens Bladder senna S Cool, dry, airy place HGF Cotoneaster S Stratify for 6 months OSB Crataegus Hawthorn T Stratify for18 months OSB Cupressus Cypresses C Cool, dry, airy place OSB Cytisus Brooms S Cool, dry, airy place HGF Erica Heaths S Cool, dry, airy place HGF Euonymus alatus, Spindle trees S Stratify for 6 months OSB europaeus&latifolius Fagus sylvatica Beech T Mix with moist peat, OSB store in fridge 1-5°C Fraxinus Ash T As above OSB Genista Brooms S Cool, dry, airy place HGF Hypericum St John’s wort S Cool, dry, airy place HGF Ilex Holly S/T Stratify for18 months OSB Juniperus Junipers C Stratify for 6 months OSB Laburnum T Cool, dry, airy place OSB Magnolia S/T Sow once harvested. Pots in Keep in cold frame heated for18 months propagated to start germination Mahonia S Stratify for 6 months HGF Malus Flowering T Stratify for 6 months OSB crab apple Picea Spruces C Cool, dry, airy place OSB Pinus Pines C Cool, dry, airy place OSB Prunus Ornamental T/S Stratify for 6 months OSB cherries, almonds, peaches, laurels Pyracantha Firethorns S Stratify for 6 months OSB Quercus Oaks T Sow after harvesting OSB in autumn Rhododendron S Cool, dry, airy place HGF (inc azalea) Robinia False acacias T Cool, dry, airy place HGF Rosa Roses S Stratify for18 months OSB Skimmia S Stratify for 6 months OSB Sorbus Mountain ash/ T Stratify for 6 months OSB whitebeam Symphoricarpos Snowberry S Stratify for 6 months OSB Taxus Yew C Stratify for 6 months OSB Thuja Arbor-vitae C Cool, dry, airy place OSB Viburnum Guelderrose, S Stratify for 6 months HGF snowball trees Key: C = conifer, Cl = climber, T = tree, OSB = outdoor seed bed, HGF = heated greenhouse or frame enough to handle, prick out into boxes to give them room to develop. Some seedlings can be potted individually into 31⁄2in (9cm) pots, particularly those that resent root disturbance, such as cytisus (brooms), genistas and Spartium junceum. Use John Innes No1 or a lime-free type for lime haters. Keep seedlings in a greenhouse until established, after which they can be gradually hardened off in cold frames and then placed outdoors. Remember to shade from hot sun. Potted plants can eventually be planted in their final positions in the garden. Those that were pricked out can either be potted on when they have outgrown their boxes, or grown on in nursery beds until large enough for the garden. October-November or MarchApril are suitable times for planting out young trees and shrubs. Sow a light scattering of the seed on the surface of the compost and top with John Innes seed compost. Then cover and keep the compost moist As soon as seedlings are large enough to handle, prick out into 3½in (9cm) pots and place in a greenhouse or cold frame before hardening off

29 APRIL 2023 AMATEUR GARDENING 45 DESPITE all parts of the foxglove plant being extremely toxic – to humans and animals – infusions of the leaves were commonly used in herbal medicine for the treatment of various complaints. It was as long ago as 1785 that extracts of D. purpurea, containing cardiac glycosides, were first used for the treatment of heart conditions – they helped to regulate the heartbeat. Soon after this, digitalis was employed for a variety of purposes, including the treatment of epilepsy and other seizure disorders (now considered inappropriate treatments). The two active ingredients found in digitalis – digoxin and digitoxin – are still the most widely used in the treatment of heart disease, although they are now mostly manufactured synthetically. 5good garden perennial foxglove species Sceptre foxglove (Digitalis sceptrum) Medicinal foxgloves We look at a popular, colourful cottage-garden favourite This week it’s: YOU would be hard-pressed to find anyone who couldn’t recognise a foxglove – the Latin name of which is Digitalis purpurea. Its familiar tall spikes of pinky-purple tubular flowers are a common sight in gardens everywhere as spring turns to summer. I bet there are some growing not far from you, wherever you live in the UK. These are flowers commonly thought of as archetypal cottage-garden blooms, but in the past couple of decades so much breeding work has taken place, as well as, I have to say, a large amount of marketing, that today they are key features of many modern and contemporary gardens, and to great effect. Let’s look at some foxglove stories. Rusty foxglove (Digitalis ferruginea) Canary Island foxglove (Digitalis canariensis) Large yellow foxglove (Digitalis grandiflora) All photographs Alamy unless otherwise credited THE digitalis genus contains 24 species of biennial and perennial plants. The most commonly seen form, D. purpurea, is a native of Western Europe, and usually behaves as a biennial, in that the seeds germinate immediately after they have set. This requires the germinated plants to overwinter, as rosettes of coarsely hairy leaves. These then flower the following year, and usually die once they themselves have set seed. Several times in my gardening life, and in different gardens, I have turned over patches of soil, only to bring foxglove seeds to the surface, resulting in a glorious display of colour a year or so afterwards. Biennial foxgloves MOST foxglove species are, actually, perennial, reflowering every year for three or four years. Some last even longer. Most like an open sunny site. They tend to flower later in summer than the biennials, and they have smaller and less showy flowers. Also, the colours are somewhat understated which, for me anyway, makes them fit more subtly into the herbaceous border. Actually, the key with these perennials is to make sure you encourage self-seeding; most of the seedlings will be true to the parent, giving you identical habit and flower colour. Never deadhead the plants before they set seed, and then keep a beady eye out for their seedlings from late summer onwards. Perennial foxgloves Grecian Spanish foxglove (Digitalis lanata) Foxgloves in alltheir glory Foxgloves are a common sight Digitalis purpurea The perennial Digitalis ‘Glory of Roundway’ A gardener’s MISCELLANY Gardening’s king of trivia and brain-teasers, Graham Clarke Digoxin is found in foxgloves

A gardener’s MISCELLANY 46 AMATEUR GARDENING 29 APRIL 2023 FOXGLOVES are great for attracting bumblebees, which feed on the nectar. If you are planting specifically for the wildlife, make sure you stick to species foxgloves rather than the more highly bred garden varieties, as the latter aren’t as useful as a food source for bees. Two types of garden moth – the foxglove pug and the lesser yellow underwing – rely on foxgloves to survive. The first feeds on the flowers, and the second feeds on the leaves. ON this day, in Eastbourne, East Sussex, TV weatherman Michael Fish was born. In 2004, when he retired from regular appearances on TV, he had achieved the accolade of ‘longest serving weather presenter on British television’ – his first bulletin was broadcast in 1974. However, he will be remembered for one particular event – that of failing to predict the worst storm to hit southeast England since 1703. On the evening of 15 October 1987, he said on TV that a hurricane “wasn’t coming” so “don’t worry” – but the effects were the same as if there had been one! The overnight storms brought down 15 million trees (including six of the seven eponymous oaks in Sevenoaks, Kent). Historic specimens in Kew Gardens, Wakehurst Place and Hyde Park in London came down, as well as most of the trees making up Chanctonbury Ring on the South Downs in West Sussex. Michael is a very keen gardener himself. However, he once said:“My job gives me ‘inside knowledge’. I will phone my wife Sue with warnings like not to water the garden. She also never puts the bedding plants in until she’s got the all-clear from me that the frosts have finished!” L S E I R I A F L L F A C R I P I A A E O T I D I N I N N G X R A N G N I S O E G A K E N C E E I N L E R E I E C E T D O H I D B A R D A H V B E R A T C E N T E M E L B M U B P O S I L A T I G I D M This week’s keyword is .......................................................................................... Name ........................................................................................................................ Address .................................................................................................................... ................................................................................................................................... Postcode .................................................................................................................. Email......................................................................................................................... Tel no ........................................................................................................................ Future plc, publisher of Amateur Gardening, will collect your personal information solely to process your competition entry. HOW TO ENTER: Enter this week’s keyword on the entry form, and send it to AG Word Search No 669, Amateur Gardening, Future Publishing Limited, Unit 415, Winnersh Triangle, Eskdale Road, Winnersh, RG41 5TP, to arrive by Wednesday 10 May 2023. The first correct entry chosen at random will win our £30 cash prize. No: Word search 669 This word search comprises words associated with foxgloves! They are listed below; in the grid they may be read across, backwards, up, down or diagonally. Letters may be shared between words. Erroneous or duplicate words may appear in the grid, but there is only one correct solution. After the listed words are found there are seven letters remaining; arrange these to make this week’s KEYWORD. FOXGLOVES BIENNIAL PERENNIAL MEDICINAL BUMBLE BEES DIGITALIS FAIRIES FINGER HEART LEGEND MOTH NATIONAL NECTAR PINK SEED Foxgloves for wildlife JUST FOR FUN AG’s Garden Wall It’s time for our just-for-fun puzzle – AG’s Garden Wall. This wall comprises 12 bricks in three courses. Each brick has a different word, or phrase on it. The first brick in each course, with BLOCK capitals, is cemented in place and cannot be moved. Just rearrange all the other bricks, so that the four words in each course of bricks are linked. There are three different connections to look for, one for each course. You may find that some words have more than one connection to other courses, but there is just one correct answer. You’ll either find this puzzle fiendishly difficult, or incredibly easy! Answers below. Hint: In one of the courses, the bricks are all linked to foxgloves! STING Leadwort Rusty Gooseberry STRAWBERRY Joe Swift Canary Island Brassica LARKSPUR Smooth Ironic Robinia No. 111 STING STRAWBERRY LARKSPUR WIN £30 The foxglove pug moth feeds on foxglove flowers Michael Fish, pictured in 2010 JUST FOR FUN JUST FOR FUN JUST FOR FUN Historical gardening event of = YRREB WARTS;)l at e mf osepyt gni ni at noc sdr owll a( ) nori( ci norI ,) ssar b( aci ssar B,) dael( tr owdaeL =) nit( GNI TS: sr e wsnA the week: 27April 1944 RUPSKRAL;) sil ati gi dsei cepsf ose man no mmoc eht eka mot’ evol gxof‘ yb dewoll of ebya mll a( ht oo mS, dnal sI yr anaC, yt suR .) dri bf osepyt gni ni at noc sdr owll a( ) ni bor( ai ni boR,)tfi ws( tfi wSeoJ,) esoog( yrr ebesooG=) kr al(

29 APRIL 2023 AMATEUR GARDENING 47 ...just forfun! ACROSS 1 Places to live – on waterlily foliage perhaps! (4) 3The ivy genus (6) 6‘Beth’, ‘Concorde’ and ‘Doyenné duComice’ are all varieties of this (4) 7 Trunk of a tree (4) 8The central, protruding vein of a 17 across! (3) 11Common name for a kniphofia (3,3,5) 15and 19across Animal…(3) 17 The main (flattened) organ of photosynthesis and transpiration in green plants (4) 18Stylish, as in the tulip cultivars ‘Holland ____’ and ‘Très ____’ (4) 19…handwear – the subjects of this week’s Miscellany! (6) 20The small decorative Dahlia ‘____’ and Primula auricula ‘____ One’ share this work of music (4) DOWN 1 Sweet or bell fruiting vegetable (6) 2 Priorto ‘heading’ – the removal of faded flowers! (4) 3Several plants of the cherry pie genus (11) 4This variety of strawberry and ornamental onion is also the ancient Greek god of love (4) 5The highest point of, say, a garden shed or a greenhouse (4) 9Timid with people, as in the funfair coconuts! (3) 10Bean seeds are found in this (3) 12 Genus of the butcher’s broom shrub (6) 13A____ plant is a small seedling, usually in a small ____ of soil! (4) 14____ blight is a bacterial disease of bean plants, causing small brown spots with a lightcoloured edge on the leaves (4) 16Small piece of potato in oil, and small piece of bark on soil! (4) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 11 12 9 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 KEYWORD TO WORD SEARCH 664 (25 March): CONICAL AND THE WINNER IS: KATRINA DENTON, DARLINGTON SINCE 1994, the holder of the National Collection of Digitalis has been The Botanic Nursery, Melksham, Wiltshire, run by Terry and Mary Baker. Each year they even hold Foxglove Weeks, around the end of May, where the vast majority of the plants in the collection will be in flower. Visit  thebotanicnursery.co.uk for more information. National Collection thebotanicnursery.co.uk THE botanical name digitalis comes from the word digitus, meaning finger. The first reference of the plant being related to the finger was in 1542, when botanist Leonhart Fuchs (after whom the fuchsia is named) brought out a book, and used the digitalis name. It derived from the German vernacular name for the plant Fingerhut, which translates literally as ‘finger hat’, but actually means ‘thimble’. Individually, the flowers are the size and shape of a thimble! But what about foxglove? No one knows for sure how this arose, but the most likely explanation is this: the ‘fox’ part came about because these plants tend to grow in disturbed soil, such as that around foxes’ earths. The ‘glove’ part comes from the fact that the blooms could be said to look like the fingers of a glove. It’s a reasonably credible derivation. There are several folklore versions of how the foxglove got its name, including: Fairies gave foxes the flowers to wear on their paws, so they wouldn’t be heard when stalking their prey! Mmm, two questions on this: i) Who put the fairies in charge? and ii) What stopped the foxes from just taking the blooms anyway? The foxglove name Foxgloves are in the Plantaginaceae plant family, and among their relatives are snapdragons (antirrhinum), toadflaxes (linaria) and hebes. Around 15 years ago, seed firm Thompson & Morgan introduced the foxglove cultivar ‘Candy Mountain’. In the description, T&M says the plant earned the nickname ‘Viagra’ in breeding, thanks to its unusually upward-facing flowers. Too much information! Wow! I didn’t know that... Are fairies behind the foxglove name? Foxglove ‘Candy Mountain’ Crossword The Botanic Nursery website DROWSSORCEVOBA OT SRE WSNA xoF 51 r ekopt oh deR11 bi R 8 el oB7r aeP 6ar edeH3sdaP1 SSORCA sup O02sevol G91 ci hC81f aeL 71 doP 01 yhS 9xepA5sor E 4seport oil eH3 daeD2r eppeP1 N WOD pi hC61 ol a H41 gul P31 sucsuR 21

48 AMATEUR GARDENING 29 APRIL 2023 Alamy Got a small garden and want a water feature along with the plants that will bring it to life? Not a problem, says Martyn Cox, as he lists the ideal plants for a compact pond I N an ideal world, my pond would be home to dense stands of flag irises, giant pickerel weed and waterlilies boasting huge flowers and pads, while Gunnera manicata, Darmera peltata and clumps of ligularia, with their 3ft (90cm)-tall stems of yellow flowers, would flourish in the damp soil around the outside. Alas, my wish list of watery wonders will remain a pipe dream for the time being. Like most other garden owners in the country, I am strapped for space – I will never be able to squeeze in a water feature that is deep enough or large enough to accommodate some of my favourite aquatics. Of course, just because you have a small garden doesn’t mean you can’t have a water feature, plus plants to bring it to life. Take my garden, for example. I’ve got a 3ft 3 (90cm3 ) raised pond with six different plants, all of which are appropriate to the size and depth of the feature. Nestled in a corner is a large mesh container that’s been planted with a combination of dwarf bulrush (Typha minima), corkscrew rush (Juncus effusus f. spiralis) and an umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), an exotic-looking plant from Africa with 3ft (90cm)-tall stems topped with slender green bracts. A container set on the bottom of the pond holds a dwarf waterlily, whose tiny flowers bob on the surface from mid-summer onwards, while the spiky rosettes of water soldiers (Stratiotes aloides)* remain under water for much of the year before rising to the top in summer. Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum) remains submerged, helping to oxygenate the water. A healthy pond Aquatic plants fall roughly into six groups – bog plants, marginals, free floaters, waterlilies, deep-water plants and submerged oxygenators. If you want an attractive display of plants and a pond that stays healthy throughout the year, include as many of the different groups as you can. This is even more important if you want fish in your pond or hope to attract wildlife, such as frogs and dragonflies. Fish enjoy darting through foliage underwater, while creatures will only visit or use a pond as a habitat if there are places for them to rest, hide or lay their eggs. Aim to cover at least one-third of the surface of your pond or water feature with foliage. This is not just for aesthetic reasons – plant life helps to keep the water cool, which prevents algae from flourishing in warm, light conditions. Marginal plants are probably the most valuable because they provide colour and interest all year round. They include damp-loving perennials that are happy with their roots in wet mud or in 1in (2½cm) or so of water, although most will put up with their crowns being submerged by as much as 6in (15cm). For an eye-catching show, select flowering species like sagittaria, ranunculus and marsh marigolds (white Caltha palustris var. alba and yellow Caltha palustris ‘Marilyn’). Grow these alongside foliage plants, such as acorus grasses, golden spear (Baumea rubiginosa ‘Variegata’) and juncus rushes. Waterlilies are the ‘glamour girls’ of the aquatic world. Most are rampant beasts that require very deep water otherwise they will swamp a small pond with their large pads in the blink of an eye. Fortunately, there are a number of compact waterlilies with smaller pads that thrive in much shallower water. Among the best for tiny ponds and water features that are from 6-18in (15-45cm) deep are pink Nymphaea Waterywonders A plastic container plunged into the ground serves as a miniature pond for aquatic plants with Martyn Cox Your GARDENING SOLUTIONS

29 APRIL 2023 AMATEUR GARDENING 49 6compact aquatic plants Planting up a mixed aquatic container Nymphaea ‘Pygmaea Helvola’ AGM This compact waterlily has 2in (5cm)-wide slightly scented yellow flowers that emerge in summer above 5in (12cm) green leaves mottled with red. Ranunculus flammula This buttercup forms a 12in (30cm)-tall mound of foliage that is covered with yellow flowers in summer. It’s ideal for underplanting in mixed marginal containers. Stratiotes aloides* Water soldiers are free-floating plants with spiky leaves plus white flowers in mid-summer. Plants sink to the bottom in autumn and rise again in summer. Cyperus involucratus AGM The umbrella plant is an architectural wonder that will add a tropical touch to ponds, forming clumps of 2ft (60cm)-tall stems terminating with leaf bracts. Equisetum hyemale This evergreen has 30in (75cm) green stems with distinctive bands. It has a tendency to spread, so make sure this marginal is restrained in a pot. Juncus effusus f. spiralis The corkscrew rush is grown for its crazy, curling, tubular leaves. This marginal plant grows to around 12in (30cm) high and produces small brown flowers in summer. A GREAT way of saving space in a small pond is to plant up a mixed container, rather than trying to find space for lots of plants in individual pots. Unlike solid-sided containers, those created for ponds have mesh sides to enable the free movement of water and to allow gases to escape. Sometimes described as ‘planting baskets’, mesh-sided containers come in many shapes and sizes, and selection depends on the scale of your pond. In my small pond I have a 12in (30cm)-square basket that provides enough room for three plants to flourish. Start by lining the container to stop compost from escaping into the water. Place a square of hessian or horticultural fleece inside, making sure it fits snugly and all the mesh sides are covered (remove any excess from the top once the container has been planted up). Partially fill the container with aquatic compost. Decant aquatics from pots, remove any weeds from the top and arrange in the container. Fill gaps with compost and firm plants in well. Spread a thick layer of washed grit over the surface to prevent compost from being stirred up by moving water. Lower containers slowly into the pond, allowing air bubbles to rise as the compost fills with water. Don’t sink it in too quickly otherwise gravel will be washed off the top. Those containing marginal plants will need to stand on bricks so the crown is just a few inches below the surface. tetragona ‘Johann Pring’, white N. tetragona and N. ‘Paul Hariot’, whose spiky orange-red flowers appear through 5in (13cm) green leaves with dark markings. ‘Aurora’ has cup-shaped flowers that age from orange to red. Deep-water aquatics with floating leaves or flowers are not really an option when you have a small pond. Instead, go for free-floating plants, like water soldiers, native frogbit (Hydrocharis morsus-ranae) and water lettuce (Pistia stratiotes), whose succulent rosettes look like floating heads of baby gem lettuce. Well-behaved aquatic plants will enhance the beauty of ponds and water features, and ensure they earn their keep in gardens all year round. However, don’t get carried away, as too many different plants will give the pond a haphazard look. Alamy *Note: Stratiotes aloides (water soldier) is listed on Schedule 9 of The Wildlife (Northern Ireland) Order (1985), as amended, as an invasive non-native species. While this does not prevent it from being sold or being grown in gardens in Northern Ireland, the RHS encourages those who do grow it to take care with managing it and with disposing of unwanted material. Shutterstock unless credited

Steve and Val explain the role of plant hormones in growth and dormancy Understanding plant hormones 50 AMATEUR GARDENING 29 APRIL 2023 YOU might not associate hormones with plants – with people, yes, but not plants. They have them, though, and these hormones govern many of the processes that keep plants growing, or keep them dormant. Plant hormones are involved in cell production and repair, causing callus formation over wounds and root initiation where it is needed. They also promote and balance growth between roots and shoots, which is why root pruning a plant will cause a slowdown in top growth until the balance is restored. Chemical messengers There is a group of five main phytohormones comprising gibberellin, ethylene, cytokinins, auxin and abscisic acid. Auxins are a family of plant hormones found mostly in the tips of the growing stems and roots (the ‘apical meristems’) and they control growth by boosting cell division and causing existing cells to lengthen, making roots and shoots longer. They are also involved with growth towards a light source (phototropism), downward root growth (geotropism), flower formation, fruit set/growth and apical dominance (when the top bud on a stem suppresses the buds below it). Gibberellins improve fruit set and size, help break seed dormancy and can speed germination. Growers can use them as a natural way to trick plants into growing fruit without seeds (false fruit) that are much bigger than average. Cytokinins are found in both plants and animals, unlike other plant hormones. They stimulate cell division and can be used to delay ageing. Ethylene (ethene) is unique in that it is only found in gaseous form. It induces ripening, causes leaves to droop (epinasty) and drop (abscission). Plants can increase ethylene production in response to stress and an increase is part of the reason for leaf fall in autumn. It is used to ripen fruit, such as green tomatoes or bananas, and it can be used to prevent buds developing in potatoes, extending their shelf life Abscisic acid is a general plantgrowth inhibitor. It induces dormancy, prevents seeds from germinating and A closes leaf pores to reduce water loss in ll photographs by Chris Bradley, copyright Future PLC, unless otherwise credited Steve & Val’s ADVANCED SKILLS Hormones help to promote callus, the first healing cells that form over the plant’s cut surface When taking pelargonium or geranium cuttings, there is no need to use hormone-rooting powder as the plants already have a high concentration of natural hormones in the stem and adding more will burn the cells Always tip hormone-rooting powder into a separate receptacle – never dip the cutting straight into the whole pot of powder Alamy Alamy