The Technique of the Professional Make Up Artist

288 The Technique of the Professional Make-up Artist

Clown white, 42 inlay, 40 Film
Clowns, 157 periodontics, 87 color negative, 17-19
Codi, Ray, 236 plaster, 165ff. early make-up, 158
Collagen, 82ff. spatulas, 36, 37 orthochromatic, 27
College pliers, 36, 37 stone, 166ff. panchromatic, 17-19, 27. 28
Collodion Dentistry, cosmetic, 8 6 8 7
Depilatory cremes, 81 Filters, 11, 15, 275
flexible, 39, 42 Dermabrasion, 78ff. Flat plate molds, 178, 180
non-flexible, 42 Dermatologists, 8Iff. Flexible impression materials. 167
Color Devils, 144, 146 Fluorescent lighting, 22-24
accent, 50, 61 Diffusion, 21 Foamed latex, 35, 39
charts, 50 Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, 142, 144 Fonda, Henry, 139
contouring, 50 Dolichocephalic head shape, 49 Footcandles, 13, 14
coordination, 49, 50, 61 Dolls and toys, 152, 156 Foreheads, 102, 106
correcting, 28, 70 Dracula make-up, 141, 143 Foundations or bases, 27-29, 32, 34, 39,
framing, 50 Dry rouge or blush, 32, 33, 41
highlights, 49, 50 Duplicating materials, 200, 203 41, 52, 54ff.
matching, 54 Dupuis, Steven, 224 cake, 27, 42
negative film, 17-19 creme, 41
perception, 29 Ears, 70, 72 RMG, or AF, 32, 34, 39, 188, 272, 277
aging, 99 stick, 41
pigments, 29, 33 Thinner, 32, 74, 120
principles, 49 Eastman Kodak Co., 5, 10, 15, 17-19, 21, tube, 41
quality, 5, 22 42 Frankenstein Monster, 39, 141, 142
rendering index (CRI), 23 Frontal bone, 58, 59
response, 50 Egyptians, ancient, 129-131 Fullerton, Carl, 197, 222, 223, 225
reversal film, 18, 19 Eighteenth century types, 134-138
sensation, 50 Elastin, 84 Gauze (silk), 118
shift, 16, 24 Electrolysis, 81 Gelatin, 11, 235
television, 12ff. Electronic flash, 14
temperature, 15, 22, 23 Elephant Man make-up, 143, 144 capsules, 38
Color Process, 29ff. Elliot, Peter, 150, 151 materials, 209, 2 10
Coloration Epicanthic fold, 120ff. Glycerin, 234
facial, 51 Eskimoes, 122 Grant, U.S., 139
latex, 188 Europeans, 122, 125 Gray scale, 10, 12, 17
Combs, 36, 248, 255 Eye or Eyes, 48, 49, 102, 103 Greasepaint, 4 1, 56
Contact lenses, 80 Greeks, ancient, 131, 132, 140
Contouring brow blocking, 123, 256 Greenberg, Dr. Jean Marie, 8 6 8 7 , 273
color, 52 brows, 52, 63, 64 Greenspoon, Dr. Martin, 80, 274
natural, 32, 52, 56ff. colors, 27, 33, 41, 42, 49, 50, 52, 54, 61, Guinness, Alec, 102
reflective, 52 Gypsum, 165ff.
Cosmetic 62
dentistry, 8 6 8 7 drops, 277 Hackle, 246, 248
lenses, 80 lashes, 34, 52, 65, 66, 75 Hair, 105-107, 244ff.
surgery, 58, 78ff. lines, 52ff.
Cosmetician, 4, 78, 79 shades, 12Off. angora goat, 244. 245
Cosmetique, 41 shadow, 33, 41 artificial, 247ff.
Cosmetologist, 4, 78, 79 sloe, 121 bleaching, 100, 107
Cotton balls, 61 Eyelash body, 256-257
Countershading, 27, 29, 32, 41, 52, 56, 59, adhesive, 39, 65, 66 color spray, 74, 107, 258
curlers, 37 colors, 48, 105
70-72 make-up, 52 crepe, real, 244, 245
Crepe hair, 244ff. Expressionism, 74, 75 crepe, wool, 244ff.
cut, 244
real, 244, 245 Face cast, 169ff. dressing, 41, 259
wool, 244ff. Facial facial, 250ff.
CRI, 23 goods, 27, 76, 244ff.
Cronyn, Hume, 109 anatomy, 4 7 4 9 horse, 244, 245
Crosby, Bing, 102 balance, 47, 48 human, 244ff.
Crowns or caps, 87 coloration, 51 kit, 27, 249
Curling irons, 248ff. contours, 52 line, 47
Cuts, 235 definitions, 52 men’s, 71-73
distortion, 91, 94 natural, 256
Dark Ages types, 133-134 lifts, 118 prepared, 246, 253ff.
Dawn, Jack, 143, 146, 154, 192 proportions, 47-49 racial types, 119, 120
De Carlo, Yvonne, 110, 116 shapes, 4 7 4 9 removal, 81
Dental Fadjo, Dr. Lawrence, 86 scissors, 36
Falls, 265ff. shades and forms, 120ff.
bonding, 87 False lashes, 52, 65, 66 shine, 41, 259
bridges, 87 Fantasy types, 151-152 spray, 39, 41, 74
caps or crowns, 87 Father Time make-up, 155 styles, 49, 259ff.
carding wax, 40 FDA, 78 tinting or coloring, 66, 121-122, 258
college pliers, 36, 37 Filing system, 91, 276

Index 289

transplants, 81 pure gum, 39, 187ff. Plasticized Adhesive, 37, 42, 2 10-213,
types, 48, 120, 122 softeners, 189 254
whitening or graying, 39, 105, 108, 258 thickeners, 189
yak, 244, 245 LeClaire, Jackie, 157, 158 Matthau, Walter, 104
Halation, 51, 52, 101 Lee, Robert E., 139 Max Factor Co., 27, 28, 31, 59, 267
Haley, Jack, 154 Life mask, 169ff. McCorkindale, Simon, 153
Hancock, Mike, 236-238 Lifts, 110, 114, 118, 249 McDowall, Roddy, 92, 93, 153
Hand make-up, 72, 74, 107 Light, 10-16, 22-24, 75 Medical approaches, 79ff.
Hawkins, Jack, 104 primaries, 11, 12
Hayward, Louis, 142 Lighting ratio, 14 cell therapy, 79
Head, 102 Liners, 33, 41 holistic, 79, 80
forms, 248 Lines, 52 problems, 79
shapes, 119, 120 character, 97ff. Medieval types, 134
Hebrews, ancient, 131, 133 eye or lash, 52ff. Mediterranean types, 122
High definition, 21 lip, 53ff. Melanin, 84
High fashion make-up, 54ff. Lincoln, Abraham, 139 Melanoid, 84
Highlights, 41, 52, 101 Lip Men’s make-up, 70ff.
Historical characters, 129 colors, 27, 33, 41, 42, 49, 53, 54, 61, 66- Merrick, Jon, 143
Hoffman, Malvina, 128 Mesopotamians, ancient, 131, 132
Horror make-up, 141 69, 75 Metallic powders, 155
Hurt, John, 143, 144 glosses, 33, 42, 61 Mexicans, 121, 125
Hurt, William, 191 liners, 33 Mid-America Dental Co., 167ff.
Hydrocal, 166ff. pomades, 42 Middle age, 97ff.
shapes, 49, 66-68, 121ff. Milland, Raymond, 102
IATSE, 3, 43 Stae, or Stay, 42 Miller, David, 224
Image structure, 21 Lipstick, 41, 43 Mineral oil, 29, 5 1
Impression materials, 165ff. Lotito, Leo, 195, 246, 247 Mixers
Impressionism, 74, 75 Lugosi, Bela, 143 Hobart, 192. 197
Incident light, 13, 16 Sunbeam, 192ff.
Indians MacLane, Barton, 156 Modelling tools, 37, 172
Make-up Mold releases, 168, 169
American, 121-125 Molds
East, 125, 126 age with, 97ff. bald cap, 181ff.
Inflatable bladders, 191, 192 application sequence casting, 179ff.
Ironside, Michael, 214, 215, 218 duplicate, 167, 168
children, 73 eyes, 181, 182, 204
Jawlines, 102, 105, 12lff. men, 7Iff. flat plate, 178, 180
Jerome, Paul, 157 women, 52ff. noses, 179, 180, 185, 186, 201, 206
artist examinations, 279, 280 paint-in, 181
Kaolin, 37 ballet, 76 slush, 179, 183, 190
Karloff, Boris, 39, 142, 143 beauty, 5 Iff. teeth, 186, 208
Karo syrup, 235 body, 74 two-piece, 183ff.
Kaufman, Andy, 151, 156 character,
Kelly, Emmett, 157 screen, 89ff. foamed latex, 185, 186, 193, 194, 195, 206
Kelvin scale, 15, 22, 23 stage, 76 foamed urethane, 185, 198-203, 206
Keppler, Werner, 166, 186, 192, 198, 202 hand, 72, 74 press molding, 206
Kits, make-up, 27, 40, 43, 277-278 high fashion, 54ff. Molding
Kleenex tissue, 107 kits, 27, 40, 43, 277-278 PMA Material, 39, 204
Kramer, Sylvia, 33 lab, 163 PMA Press Material, 39, 205-207
license, 54
Lace, 248ff. men’s, 70ff. wax, 40, 42, 93, 232, 234
Lacquer, clear, 172, 180, 184, 185 production, 52ff. Mongoloid or Oriental, 29, 119ff.
Laden, Robert, 92, 93 racial change, 120ff. Monitors, 7, 9
Lahr, Bert, 147 records or charts, 24, 25, 93 Monochromatic (B&W) film & television,
Lanolin, 29 room, 22ff.
Laplanders, 122 seminars and schools, 274 12-19
LaPorte, Steven, 224 showgirl, 76 Moors, 127, 134
Lashes special effects, 94, 217ff. Morehead, Agnes, 114, 115
stage or theatrical, 26, 55ff. Mortician’s wax, 42
curlers, 37 styles, 53 Morton, Cavendish, 91, 94
eye, 34, 52, 65, 66, 75 women, 51ff. Moulage, 165, 167
false, 34, 75 Manson, Maurice, 94, 96, 155 Moustache wax, 42
Latex, 27, 39, 187ff. March, Frederic, 142, 144 Mozart Family, 138
appliances, 187ff. Mascara, 27, 34, 41, 52, 64, 65, 75, 105 Mummy make-up, 141, 143
caps, 212 remover pads, 34 Muni, Paul, 100
casting, 39, 187ff. Massey, Raymond, 139
coloration, 188, 189 Matte NABET, 3
eyejash adhesive, 39 Adhesive, 37, 42, 250ff. Nasolabial folds, 102, 104
fillers, 189 Adhesive #16, 38, 254ff. National types, 122ff.
foam, 35, 39, 112ff. Lace Adhesive, 37, 40, 42, 255 Naughton, David, 2 18-222
Plastic Sealer, 40, 42, 114, 211, 256 Neck

aging, 105, 111-117
age reversal on, 118

290 The Technique of the Professional Make-up Artist

Negroid, 29, 119ff. neutral, 34 Sephardim, 125
make-up, 30, 31, 55ff. puffs, 35, 43 Sequence of application, 52
translucent, 34, 41 Seventeenth century types, 133-136
Nestle-Lamaur Co., 39, 258 transparent “No-Color,” 34, 41, 61 Shading, 27-29, 32, 41, 52, 56, 60, 70, 101
Niehans, Dr. Paul, 79 Prehistoric types, 129-131 Shadows, 44, 52, 101
Nineteenth century types, 135-140 Press Molding Material, 39, 205-207 Shellac, 169, 172
Niven, David, 102 Printing flow charts, 18, 19 Shore durometer, 187, 202
Nordic types, 122 Production make-up, 5ff. Sideburns, 140, 244ff.
Norin, Gustaf, 166, 205 Prognathism, 121 Silicone Mold Release, 169, 205ff.
Nose putty, 42 Progressive older age make-up, 99, 116, Silk muslin, 93, 110, 118
Noses or nasal changes, 121
117 organza, 256
O’Bradovich, Robert, 93, 109, 146-147 Prominent ears, 70 Silver, Dr. Richard, 80, 274
Obsolete terms, 41, 42 Prosthetics, 27, 110, 165ff. Skin
Oceania types, 127
Old age make-up, 97ff. adhesives, 38, 42, 121, 2llff. astringents, 35
foundations. 39 care, 27, 35, 77ff.
stipple, 39, 100, 101, 107ff. cross section, 84
Older age, progressive, 99, 116, 117 Q-Tips, 35, 62, 67
Ophthalmologists, 80 dry, 34, 35
Oriental or Mongoloid, 29, 119ff. Racial types, 119ff. fresheners, 34, 41
Randall, Tony, 94 moisturizers, 34, 35, 41
make-up, 55ff. Ramus, Armando, 216 normal, 34
Orthochromatic film, 27 Razor blades, 33, 277
Orthodontics, 86 RCMA (The Research Council of Make-up oily, 34, 35
Otolaryngologists, 80ff. peels, 78ff.
Overpowders, 34 Artists Co.), 29, 35ff.. 270-272 tightener, 58
Oxyhemoglobin, 84 Reardon, Craig, 189 tones, 29, 49, 51
Records or make-up charts, 24, 25, 93 treatments, 79
Paint primaries, 10, 11 Reflectance, 16 types, 48
Painting-in molding, 179ff. Reflective contouring, 52 Skull make-up, 144-146
Pan-Cake make-up, 27, 42, 51, 56. 59, 60, Reflectors, 14
Reiner, Robert, 112 Slezak, Walter, 107, 135
74 Removal of make-up, 34 Sloe eyes, 121
Panchromatic film, 17-19, 27, 28 Renaissance period make-up, 133, 134 Slush molding, 179, 183, 190
R e d of Paris Co., 255 Smith, Dick, 43-44, 104, 112, 1 1 5 , 166,
make-up, 28 Research file system, 276
Pan-Stik make-up, 27, 59 Resolution, 21 172, 185, 188, 189, 191, 195-198, 205,
Pasteur, Louis, 139 Reversal techniques, 110, 114, 118 210, 217, 219, 222, 224-229, 252, 253
Peck, Gregory, 139 Reynolds, Burt, 102 Smith, Kenneth, 2 10
Pencils, 27, 33, 52, 62-64, 71-73 Rhinoplasty, 82ff. Smith, Terry, 166, 195, 218
Rhytidoplasty, 83ff. Smooth-On Co., 168
sharpener, 33 Rigid impression materials, 165ff. SMPTE (Society of Motion Picture and
Perfumes, non-use, 29, 40 Robards, Jason, 110, 116 Television Engineers), 11, 27, 28
Period characters, 129 Romans, ancient, 131, 132, 133
Perlman, Ron, 130, 132 Rouge, 41 Soaps
Perma-Flex Co., 167, 168, 182 Ivory, 171
Perspiration, simulation of, 39 creme, 41, 59 Neutrogena, 34
Peters, Bernadette, 151, 156 dry cake or blush, 32, 33, 41, 59, 61
Petroleum jelly, 169, 206 lip, 41 Solvents, 237, 238
p H value, 33, 189 under or wet, 41, 59, 60 Sorolla, Joaquin, 99
Phantom of the Opera make-up, 141 Ruder, Dr. Robert, 81ff. South American types, 125
Philippe, Robert, 110 Spatulas, 172, 178
Phenol, 78, 85 Sagarin, Edward, 33 Special effects, 6, 7, 2 5 , 16lff.
Phosphor plate, 12 Santa Claus, 94, 155 Special historical characters, 138ff.
Pierce, Jack, 39, 141-143, 146, 217 Saracens, ancient, 134 Special materials, 27. 3 7 4 2 , 271
Pirates, 156, 157 Savini, Tom, 174-177, 208, 217, 222 Spirit gum, 37, 42
Plastalene, 165ff. Scalp Masque, 42
Plaster Scars, 234-236 Sponges, 35, 42, 43
Scar material, 39, 42, 91, 93, 204, 234-236 Stage make-up, 26ff.
casting, 165ff. Scissors, 36 Statuary effects, 152, 155
dental, 165ff. Schiffer, Robert, 155, 182 Stave, Jack, 142
Plastics, 27, 167ff., 187ff. Schwartzenegger. Arnold, 179 Stein’s Co., 38, 101, 244, 269, 270
bald cap material, 39, 203 Sculpture, clay, 172ff. Stipple
special, 209 Sealers, 27, 42, 169
tooth, 207-209 beard, 256
vinyl, 39 collodion, 27, 142 Old Age, 39, 97ff
Plastic Wax Molding Material, 40, 42, 93, Matte Lace, 40 sponges, 35
Matte Molding, 40 sunburn, 72
232, 234 Matte Plastic, 40, 42 Strange, Glenn, 143
Pleating machine, 248-249, 2 5 2 sealskin, 39 Stubble beards, 256
Polaroid photos, 21, 25 Seed oils, 5 1 Studio Brush Cleaner, 68
Popular types, 141ff. Separators, 168, 169 Studio Make-up Remover, 67
Potts,-Dr. Michael, 86-87, 273 Subtractive primaries, 12
Powder, 27, 29, 34, 41, 52, 61 Sunburn, 78, 101
Suntan effects, 101
AE, 34 Sydney, Basil, 213
Syrians, 125

Index 291

Tattoos, 236-238 Ultracal, 166ff. Bud, 110, 114-1 16
Taylor, Vaughn, 112 Undertone value, 29, 54ff. White henna, 66
Technicolor, 78 Urethane Wig Cement, 42
Tears and Perspiration, 124
Teledyne Getz Co., 167ff. elastomer, 202ff. Wigmaker's knot, 253-255
Theatrical or stage make-up, 26, 51ff. foam, 198ff. Wigmaker's needles, 253-255
Thickeners, 189, 239 U S . Gypsum Co., 166ff. Wigs, 257ff.
Tracy, Spencer, 141 cleaning, 255
Trichloroacetic acid, 85 Vaseline, 169, 206 Wilcox, R. Turner, 131
Tools, 27, 35-37 Vegetable oil, 5 1 William Tuttle Co., 29, 31-34, 55, 62, 71,
Velcro, 38
sculpture, 172, 173 Ventilating, 253, 255 93, 101, 125, 267, 268
Tooth Vistanex, 170 Winchell, Paul, 93, 95
Vitalite (Luxor Co.), 23-25 Winston, Stan, 110, 112, 113, 116, 150-
enamel, 42
molds, 186, 208 Wardrobe and make-up, 16, 50 154, 179, 217, 218, 231-234
plastics, 207-209 Waxes Winters, Jonathan, 155
Toupees, 255ff. Witches, 110, 144-147
Toys, make-up, 152, 156 dental 40, 42, 234 Wolfman make-up, 143, 146
Tucker, Christopher, 130, 131, 143, 192 molding, 40, 42, 93, 232, 234 Women's make-up, 5 Iff.
Turks, 125 moustache, 42 Wool crepe hair, 244ff.
Turner, Josephine, 254, 259 Waxman, Al, 224-228
Twentieth century types, 138 Westmore Bros., 47, 137 Yak hair, 244, 245
Tyson, Cicely, 110, 113

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