388 SECTION 4 CUISINES OF ASIA
*Sambar Masal Procedure
(continued)
1. In a sauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat; once the oil is hot,
1 Tbsp Moong Dal add the peppercorns, fenugreek, moong dal, and urad dal. Cook,
1 Tbsp Urad Dal stirring constantly, for 2–3 minutes.
1/2 Tbsp Cumin Seeds
1/4 cup Coriander Seeds 2. Add the coriander seeds, mustard, and cumin, and continue
1 Tbsp Mustard Seeds cooking and stirring for an additional 3–4 minutes (at which point
3 Tbsp Crushed Dried Chiles (such the spices should start to become fragrant).
as chili de arbol or japones; 3. Add the chiles and asafoetida, and continue to cook and stir until
about 6 each) the chiles begin to change color.
1/2 tsp Asafoetida
15 Curry Leaves 4. Once the chiles begin to change color, add the curry leaves and
1 tsp Salt continue to cook and stir for an additional 2 minutes. Remove the
pan from heat, and transfer the contents to another container to
cool.
5. Once cool, purée all of the ingredients in a spice grinder and store
them in a well-sealed container.
*Pol Sambol SRI LANKA Sambols are pastes made of fresh chiles and onions or shallots com-
(COCONUT SAMBOL) bined with other ingredients and served with breads or other foods as a
Ingredients condiment. This version is typical of Sri Lanka in that it has significant
heat (as long as the chiles do!) and adds coconut to make a flavorful
2 oz Fresh Red Chiles (such as blend.
cayenne or ripe serrano),
.5 oz stems removed and Yield: 1.5 cups
2 oz chopped (you can substitute
1 tsp .5 oz dried chiles, if Cooking Method: Blending/Puréeing
1 tsp necessary, with stems and
1 tsp seeds removed) Procedure
6 oz 1. In a mortar, combine the chiles, garlic, shallots, salt, and black
2 oz Garlic Cloves, chopped pepper; crush with the pestle until the mixture resembles coarse
2 oz paste.
Shallots, chopped 2. Add the sugar and grated coconut, and continue to grind together
until a coarse paste consistency is achieved.
Salt 3. Transfer the mixture to a blender and add lime juice. With the
blender running, slowly pour in the vegetable oil to make a
Black Peppercorns, crushed smoother paste (if you are not adding oil, simply add the lime juice
after step 2 to finish).
Sugar
Fresh Coconut, grated
Lime Juice
Vegetable Oil (optional; this
will make the sambol
smoother)
CHAPTER 15 CUISINES OF THE INDIAN SUBCONTINENT 389
*Raita INDIAN SUBCONTINENT Yogurt is a favorite condiment in the subcontinent and is often com-
(YOGURT RELISH)
Ingredients:
2 cups Yogurt, plain (see Chapter 2, bined with seasonings for different dishes. Making yogurt has long been
“Greek Cuisine,” for recipe) a way to preserve milk yielded from cows, and yogurt is commonly used
1 tsp Cumin, ground in preparations such as this raita, as well as in sauces. This recipe pro-
1 lb Cucumber, peeled and diced duces a very refreshing and cooling condiment that perfectly comple-
8 oz small ments spicy dishes.
Tomato, seeded and diced Yield: 4 cups
small
1 oz Green Chili, seeded and Cooking Method: Mixing and Infusing
minced (you can use
jalapeño, serrano, etc.) Procedure
1/4 cup Packed Mint Leaves, chopped 1. Combine all ingredients in a mixing bowl, and whisk them together
1/2 tsp Salt to combine thoroughly.
2. Check seasoning and adjust, if necessary. Refrigerate mixture and
allow infusing for at least 30 minutes before use.
*Ghee NORTHERN INDIA/PAKISTAN
(CLARIFIED AND CARAMELIZED BUTTER)
Ingredients Ghee is the preferred fat to cook with in much of northern India and
2 lbs Unsalted Butter Pakistan, and it is easy to make. The butter found in India has a different
taste than the butter found in the United States, but this recipe yields a
flavorful product that substitutes well for purchased ghee.
Yield: 1.5 pounds
Cooking Method: Modified Simmering
Procedure
1. Place the butter in a small, heavy-bottomed pot, and melt it gently
over a low flame.
2. Once the butter has melted, turn the heat up to a medium-low
flame, which should bring the mixture to a simmer (the water in
the butter will settle to the bottom and steam out through the fat).
3. Milk solids will gather at the surface of the mixture; as they do,
push them back into the solution as it simmers to form a somewhat
white-looking liquid (it should slightly resemble cream).
4. Continue step 3 until all of the water has evaporated (you will know
this has happened when the mixture becomes a clear butter color).
5. Once the water has evaporated, turn the heat down and slowly
allow the milk solids to caramelize and settle to the bottom of
the pot.
6. Remove the pot from heat and allow it to cool slightly before pouring
the ghee off of the caramelized solids on the bottom of the pot.
(continues)
390 SECTION 4 CUISINES OF ASIA
*Ghee
(continued)
Melted butter simmering to make Finished ghee; note the caramelized
ghee (clarified and caramelized specks on the bottom of the pan
butter); note the whitish color of the
butter from the emulsion maintained
by slow simmering
*Basmati NORTHERN INDIA The most common types of rice on the Indian subcontinent are long
(STEAMED BASMATI RICE) grain, and one of the most prized is the very fragrant basmati rice from
the Himalayan foothills. Rice is cooked in different ways, depending on
Ingredients who is cooking it and what they intend to do with it: it might be boiled/
3 cups Basmati Rice, rinsed in cold steamed, as in this recipe, or cooked in ample boiling water (like pasta)
water and drained well or a rice cooker.
4 cups Cold Water
Yield: 6 cups cooked
Cooking Method: Boiling/Steaming
Bands of basmati rice and tok dal (red lentils Procedure
with tamarind and lime) topped with pol
sambal (coconut spice paste) and limes 1. After rinsing the rice with cold water, place it in a
colander to drain off excess water.
2. Combine the rice with the water in a small pot, and allow
it to soak for at least 45 minutes before cooking it (this
allows the rice to start to absorb water, and it will cook
more evenly and quickly as a result).
3. Place the pot on the stove and bring the mixture to a boil
over high heat; once it comes to a boil, reduce the heat
to a low flame and cover the pot with a very tight-fitting
lid (use foil crimped on the rim of the pot if you don’t
have a good lid).
4. Cook covered and over a very low flame (the lid should
not be forced off by steam) for 12 minutes; turn the heat
off but leave the lid on.
5. Leave the pot covered for another 10 minutes, off of the
heat (this will allow the steam to finish cooking the rice),
and then uncover and fluff with a fork.
CHAPTER 15 CUISINES OF THE INDIAN SUBCONTINENT 391
*Tok Dal EASTERN INDIA/BANGLADESH
(RED LENTIL WITH TAMARIND AND LIME)
Ingredients This recipe, for one of the many types of dals that might be found in
For Cooking the Lentils India, includes the red lentils common in India and the sour tamarind
that is used in many parts of India and Bangladesh.
1 lb Red Lentils (also called
masoor dal) Yield: 3 pounds, or 8 portions (6 ounces/portion)
Cooking Method: Simmering and Tarka
2.5 qts Water
Procedure
For Making the Tarka For Cooking the Lentils
4 oz Vegetable Oil
2 tsp Cumin, ground
1 tsp Coriander, ground 1. Place the lentils and water in an appropriately sized pot, and bring
1.5 tsp Turmeric, ground the mixture to a boil over high heat.
1/2 tsp Fennel Seeds, ground
Cayenne Pepper, ground (or 2. Once the mixture has come to a boil, reduce the heat to simmer
1 tsp another ground chili) gently and skim any foam that rises to the top.
Garlic Cloves, minced
1 oz Yellow Onion, sliced very 3. Simmer the lentils until they just become tender (about
10 oz thin 15–18 minutes); remove them from the heat and set aside to
add the tarka and seasonings.
2 tsp Salt For Making the Tarka
For Final Seasoning and Garnish 1. Add the oil to a heavy-bottomed sauté pan, and heat over a
medium flame until hot.
1 oz Tamarind Pulp, soaked in
1/2 cup hot water and 2. Add the ground spices to the hot oil, and sauté/stir fry for a minute
pressed through a sieve to release the flavor of the spices.
2 oz Lime Juice 3. Add the minced garlic and sliced onions to the pan; lower the heat
to sweat the onions and garlic until they are tender and translucent
1/2 bunch Cilantro, leaves chopped (about 10 minutes).
Salt, to taste 4. Once they are tender and translucent, add the salt and transfer the
2 Limes, cut into 8 wedges
each
entire mixture to the cooked lentils; stir in.
For Final Seasoning and Garnish
1. After adding the tarka to the lentils, add the tamarind liquid
that has been pressed through a sieve (to remove any seeds
or skin) along with the lime juice and half of the chopped
cilantro.
2. Taste the red lentils and adjust seasoning with salt, if necessary.
Garnish with the lime wedges and cilantro.
392 SECTION 4 CUISINES OF ASIA
*Chane ki Dal Laukiwali WESTERN INDIA
(YELLOW SPLIT PEAS WITH SPICED TOMATO AND ZUCCHINI)
Ingredients This is another example of the use of the tarka method of toasting
For Cooking the Yellow Split Peas spices and then adding them to cooked ingredients, which is a com-
mon way to season foods in India.
1 qt Water
1 lb Yellow Split Peas (called Yield: 10 portions (5–6 ounces/portion)
toovar dal in India) Cooking Method (Split Peas): Simmering
2 tsp Ground Turmeric Cooking Method (Spices): Tarka
1 tsp Salt Cooking Method (Vegetables): Sautéing
For Making the Tarka and Procedure
Sautéing the Vegetables
2 oz Ghee (see recipe, this For Cooking the Yellow Split Peas
chapter, if necessary)
1. Combine the water, yellow split peas, turmeric, and salt in a small
1 tsp Cumin Seeds pot, and bring to a boil over a medium-high flame.
1 tsp Fennel Seeds
1/2 tsp Coriander Seeds 2. Once the split pea mixture has come to a boil, lower the heat to a
2 Small Dried Red Chiles (such gentle simmer and cover to cook the peas until they are tender
(about 20–25 minutes). (Add more water to the pot if the peas
as chili de arbol or japonese, become uncovered at any time during this process.)
or substitute 1 tsp red
pepper flakes) 3. Once the peas are tender, remove them from the heat and set the
.5 oz Garlic Cloves, minced pot aside until the vegetables and seasoning are done (these can be
1 oz Ginger, minced prepared as the split peas are cooking).
8 oz Yellow Onion, diced small
8 oz Zucchini, diced medium For Making the Tarka and Sautéing the Vegetables
10 oz Tomato Concassée or
Canned Diced Tomato 1. In a heavy-bottomed pan large enough to hold the vegetables and
1 Tbsp Garam Masala (see recipe, the split peas, heat the ghee over a medium flame until it is hot; add
this chapter) the whole spice seeds to make the tarka.
1 oz Lemon Juice
1/4 cup Packed Chopped Fresh 2. Once the spice seeds have become fragrant, add the whole dried
Cilantro (about 1/4 to 1/3 chiles; stir the spices and chiles in the ghee to prevent burning, and
bunch) cook in fat for 1–2 minutes to infuse the oil.
Salt, to taste
3. Add the minced garlic cloves and ginger; continue to stir to quickly
sauté the seasonings. Add the onion, lower the heat, and sweat the
onion until tender.
Chane ki dal laukiwali (yellow split peas) 4. Once the onion becomes tender, turn the heat back up and
served with chapatis (Indian flatbread) add the zucchini; sauté the zucchini until it just begins to
brown (about 4–5 minutes).
5. Once the zucchini begins to color, add the tomato and garam
masala; bring the entire mixture to a simmer over a medium-
high flame, and simmer for 5 minutes.
6. Once the mixture has simmered for 5 minutes, add the cooked
yellow split peas to the pot and stir them into the seasoned
vegetable mixture. Bring the entire mixture to a gentle
simmer over low heat.
7. Once hot, add the lemon juice and cilantro. Season with salt,
if necessary, and serve.
Copyright 2009 Cengage Learning, Inc. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part.
CHAPTER 15 CUISINES OF THE INDIAN SUBCONTINENT 393
*Masala Murgh NORTHERN INDIA
(MARINATED BRAISED CHICKEN IN SPICED TOMATO/YOGURT SAUCE)
Ingredients This recipe, from northern India, is seen often in the United States.
For Marinating the Chicken Masala murgh combines some of the classic seasonings and tech-
niques used in India with something from the Americas—tomatoes are
4 lbs Boneless/Skinless Chicken a significant part of this recipe’s sauce.
Breasts or Thighs
1/2 Tbsp Salt Yield: 20 portions (7 ounces/portion)
1/2 tsp Freshly Ground Black Pepper Cooking Method (Spices): Tarka
Cooking Method (Chicken): Braising
1 Tbsp Garam Masala (see recipe,
this chapter)
1 tsp Cumin Seeds, ground Procedure
1 tsp Fennel Seeds, ground For Marinating the Chicken
2 oz Lemon Juice
1/2 oz Garlic Cloves, minced (NOTE: This can be done up to a day ahead of time.)
1 oz Fresh Ginger, minced
1. Combine all ingredients in a nonreactive container, and mix
For Making the Tarka thoroughly; cover and store in the refrigerator.
4 oz Vegetable Oil 2. Allow mixture to marinate in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour
1 tsp Cardamom, whole before use.
1/4 tsp Fennel Seeds, whole For Making the Tarka
1/2 tsp Cumin Seeds, whole
Garam Masala 1. Heat the vegetable oil in a small sauté pan over a medium flame;
1 tsp when hot, add the whole cardamom and stir in pan for 2–3 minutes.
For Braising the Chicken 2. Add the whole fennel seeds and cumin seeds to the pan, and
continue to stir-fry in the oil until all of the seeds begin to become
Tarka Oil (see above) aromatic (be careful not to scorch them—lower the heat if the oil
Marinated Chicken gets too hot).
(see above)
1/2 cup Chickpea Flour (substitute (continues)
all-purpose flour or
cornstarch, if this is
unavailable)
1/2 cup Almonds, raw and ground Masala murgh (marinated and braised chicken in tomato/yogurt
fine in spice mill sauce) served with basmati rice and aloo paratha (potato-filled
flatbread)
1 lb Yellow Onion, diced small
2 lbs Tomato Concassée or
Canned Diced Tomato
1 pt Chicken Stock or Water
1 pt Drained Yogurt (you will
need about 1.5 pts to yield
1 pt drained)
Salt, to taste
394 SECTION 4 CUISINES OF ASIA
*Masala Murgh 3. Once the spices become aromatic, remove them from the oil with a
(continued) slotted spoon, leaving the oil behind in the pan.
4. Place the toasted spices in a paper towel to remove any excess
grease, and transfer the whole spices to a spice grinder; once cool,
grind them to a powder.
5. Return the spices to the pan with the oil, and add the garam
masala; cook over a medium-low flame to toast the spices
together.
6. Strain 2 oz of the resulting oil into a large sauté pan.
For Braising the Chicken
1. Preheat the oven to 325°F.
2. Heat the large sauté pan with the tarka oil over a medium-high
flame; once hot, add the marinated chicken to the pan (after lightly
coating chicken in chickpea flour).
3. Sauté the chicken in the oil until golden and then remove it from
the pan (use more of the tarka oil, if necessary, to brown all of the
chicken).
4. Once all of the chicken has been sautéed, add 1 oz of the tarka oil
to the pan and add the ground almond (if all of the tarka oil has
been used to sauté the chicken, use additional vegetable oil).
5. Briefly cook the ground almond in the fat (1–2 minutes), and then
add the yellow onion, the spices, and any remaining oil from
making the tarka.
6. Turn the heat down to low, and slowly sweat the onions until they
are tender and translucent.
7. Once the onions are cooked, add the tomato concassée and chicken
stock. Return the chicken to the pan.
8. Cover the pan and place it in the preheated oven; allow to cook
until chicken is done (about 20 minutes, depending on size).
9. Remove the pan from the oven and place it on the stove. Swirl the
yogurt into the sauce.
10. If the sauce is too thin, reduce it gently over a low flame.
11. Adjust seasoning with salt. Serve with naan or chapatis.
*Chapatis ALL OF SUBCONTINENT
(INDIAN FLATBREAD)
Ingredients Often called rotis in Pakistan and northern India, this style of bread is
2 tsp Salt very common throughout the subcontinent.
1 lb (16 oz) Warm Water Yield: 12 chapatis (3 ounces/each)
Mixing Method: Straight Dough Method
Cooking Method: Griddling/Panfrying
(continues)
CHAPTER 15 CUISINES OF THE INDIAN SUBCONTINENT 395
*Chapatis Procedure
(continued) 1. Preheat the griddle to 375°F (or a large sauté pan can be used).
1.25 lbs Atta Flour (substitute 1 lb 2. Combine the salt and water, and mix to dissolve the salt.
all-purpose flour and .25 lb
whole wheat flour, if this is 3. Add the flour to the mixing bowl of a mixer with a dough hook;
unavailable); more will be with the machine running, add all of the water/salt mixture.
needed for rolling the
dough, and perhaps more 4. Once the dough has formed, check its consistency. If it sticks to the
for the dough itself mixing bowl, add a little more flour (it should be soft but not sticky).
2 oz Ghee 5. Mix the dough until it becomes smooth and stretches easily without
tearing (about 10–12 minutes for most machines).
6. Once it has developed well, remove the dough from the mixer, cover
it with a clean cloth, and allow it to rest for 30 minutes.
7. Once the dough has rested, divide it into about 12 pieces; using a
rolling pin, roll out these pieces on a workbench until they are
approximately 1/4 inch thick.
8. Once the dough has been rolled out, place it on the preheated
griddle (after adding a small amount of ghee to the griddle).
9. Cook on one side for 1 minute, and the turn over and cook on the
second side for 2 minutes; turn back to first side.
10. Allow the dough to cook until done, which often can be determined
when air bubbles form in the dough as it cooks through (this is a
good characteristic of chapatis, so don’t pop the air bubbles!).
11. Once done, remove from the griddle and serve.
*Aloo Paratha WESTERN INDIA One of the many types of bread found in Western India and Pakistan,
(POTATO-FILLED FLATBREAD)
Ingredients
For Cooking the Potatoes this version included a spiced potato that is rolled into the paratha to
yield moist dough that makes a nice appetizer or accompaniment to
1.5 lbs Russet Potatoes an entrée.
2 qts Water
1 Tbsp Salt Yield: 12 portions (6 ounces/portion)
2 Tbsp Ghee (see recipe, this chapter) Cooking Method (Potatoes): Boiling
1/2 tsp Coriander Seeds, whole Cooking Method (Filling): Modified Sautéing
1 tsp Mustard Seeds, whole Mixing Method (Dough): Straight Dough
.5 oz Garlic, minced Cooking Method (Parathas): Griddle Frying/Panfrying
6 oz Yellow Onion, grated
1 oz Fresh Green Chili (such as Procedure
serrano or jalapeño), minced For Cooking the Potatoes
2 tsp Turmeric, ground
1/4 tsp Freshly Ground Black Pepper 1. Preheat the oven to 325°F.
1.5 tsp Salt
2. Combine the potatoes, water, and salt in a small pot, and bring to a
For Mixing the Dough boil over high heat. Boil the potatoes until they just become tender.
2 tsp Salt 3. Once cooked, drain the water and set the potatoes aside to cool
16 oz Warm Water until they can be handled, at which time they can be peeled. Once
peeled and cooled, cut the potatoes into 1/4-inch slices.
(continues)
396 SECTION 4 CUISINES OF ASIA
*Aloo Paratha 4. Place the potatoes in the preheated oven for 5 minutes to dry them
(continued) out slightly.
1.25 lbs Atta Flour (substitute 1 lb 5. In a sauté pan large enough to hold the potatoes, add the ghee and
all-purpose flour and .25 lb heat over a medium-low flame.
whole wheat flour, if this is
unavailable); more will be 6. Once the ghee is hot, add the coriander seeds and lightly fry in fat
needed for rolling the for 2 minutes.
dough, and perhaps more
for the dough itself 7. Add the mustard seeds, and continue to cook over a medium-low
flame until the seeds begin to pop.
3 oz Ghee
8. Once the mustard seeds have begun to pop, add the minced garlic,
For Griddle Frying/Panfrying grated onion (and its liquid), and minced chili; continue to cook
the Paratha over a medium-low flame until all of the vegetables are very tender.
4 oz Ghee 9. Once the vegetables are tender, add the turmeric and black pepper,
Rolled Filled Dough and and turn the heat up to a medium-high flame. Cook over high heat
Potatoes (see above) for 3–4 minutes.
Salt, to taste
10. Add the potatoes and salt, and mix well with all of the ingredients.
Don’t worry if you break up the potatoes (you’re going to crush
them later, anyway!).
For Mixing the Dough
1. Combine the salt and water, and mix thoroughly to dissolve the water.
2. Add the flour to the mixing bowl of a mixer with a dough hook;
with the machine running, add all of the water/salt mixture.
3. Once the dough has formed, check its consistency. If it sticks to the
mixing bowl, add a little more flour until it forms a soft dough.
4. Mix the dough until it becomes smooth and stretches easily without
tearing (about 10–12 minutes for most machines).
5. Once it has developed well, remove the dough from the mixer, cover
it with a clean cloth, and allow it to rest for 30 minutes.
6. Once the dough has rested, divide it into about 12 pieces; using a
rolling pin, roll out these pieces on a workbench until they are
approximately 1/4 inch thick.
7. To assemble the parathas, place 2 oz of the cooled potato mixture
on one half of each of the 12 pieces of dough. Fold the uncovered
half on top of the potato-covered half, and seal the edges by
pressing them with a fork.
8. Roll out the half-moon-shaped filled dough with a rolling pin until
it is slightly thicker than it was before you added the filling.
9. Fold the dough over again, in half, and roll out the dough until it is
close to its original 1/4 inch thickness (some of the potato mixture
may squeeze out during this process, which is normal).
10. Once the dough has been rolled twice, it is ready to be cooked.
For Griddle Frying/Panfrying the Parathas
1. If you are using a griddle, preheat it to 375°F. Otherwise, preheat a
large, flat sauté pan over a medium flame.
2. Place enough ghee on the griddle or sauté pan to coat the cooking
area well, and then add as many dough pieces as will fit without
dropping the temperature much. Cook on one side until golden
brown.
(continues)
CHAPTER 15 CUISINES OF THE INDIAN SUBCONTINENT 397
*Aloo Paratha 3. Turn the parathas over, and cook on the second side until both
(continued) sides are golden and the dough is cooked through.
4. Remove parathas from the griddle or pan, and season with salt.
5. Repeat steps 2–4 until all of the dough has been cooked.
*Gosht Pulao PAKISTAN/NORTHWESTERN INDIA
(SPICED STEWED LAMB AND BASMATI)
Ingredients Puloas have a clear Moghul (via Persia) influence and are found in what
was once a stronghold of the Moghul Empire. The use of cardamom,
For Soaking the Rice cinnamon, and cloves is a hallmark of this cuisine and can be found in
this recipe.
1.5 lbs Basmati Rice
2 qts Water
For Marinating the Lamb Yield: 20 portions (7 ounces/portion)
3 lbs Lamb Stew Meat, cleaned of Cooking Method: Stewing
connective tissue
Procedure
1 Tbsp Salt For Soaking the Rice
2 tsp Freshly Ground Black Pepper
2 tsp Cumin, ground 1. Rinse rice in a china cap under cool running water until the water
1 tsp Cayenne Pepper runs clear.
1.5 tsp Turmeric, ground
2. Transfer rice to a mixing bowl or another container large enough
For Making the Stew to hold the rice and water. Combine the rice with 2 qts of water,
and allow the rice to soak for at least 1 hour before proceeding with
4 oz Ghee (see recipe, this chapter) the recipe. (This step is important for the rice to cook properly; if it
is skipped, this recipe will not have enough liquid.)
1 Cinnamon Stick
For Marinating the Lamb
1 Tbsp Cardamom, whole (about
a dozen) 1. Combine the lamb and all of the spices in a mixing bowl, and mix
thoroughly to coat the lamb evenly with the seasoning.
1/2 tsp Cloves, whole (about
a dozen) 2. Place the lamb in the refrigerator, and allow it to marinate for
1 hour before proceeding.
1.5 lbs Yellow Onion, sliced thin
For Making the Stew
2 oz Garlic Cloves, minced or
grated 1. Preheat the oven to 300°F.
2. In an appropriately sized heavy-bottomed pot, heat the ghee over a
2 oz Ginger, minced or grated
medium flame; add the cinnamon stick, cardamom, and cloves, and
1/4 tsp Nutmeg, ground stir to “toast” the spices and draw out flavor for 1 minute.
3. Add the sliced onions, garlic, and ginger; lower the heat and sweat
1/2 tsp Freshly Ground Black Pepper the ingredients until the onions are very tender and translucent
(approximately 15–20 minutes).
1 Tbsp Coriander, ground 4. Add the dry ground spices, and turn the heat up to a medium-high
flame. Continue to cook until the pot begins to look dry and the
Marinated Lamb (see above) spices are very fragrant.
5. Add the marinated lamb to the pot, and turn the heat up to a high
1 lb Diced Tomatoes (concassée flame. Continually stir to brown the lamb while making sure not to
if tomatoes are ripe, or burn the bottom of the pot.
canned if tomatoes are not)
3 Bay Leaves
Basmati Rice (see above),
drained
1 qt Water
Salt and Pepper, to taste
1/2 bunch Cilantro, chopped (for
garnish)
(continues)
398 SECTION 4 CUISINES OF ASIA
*Gosht Pulao 6. Once the lamb is caramelized, add the diced tomatoes, bay leaves,
(continued) soaked rice, and water; bring the entire mixture to a simmer.
7. Once the mixture comes to a boil, cover the pot with aluminum foil,
making sure to crimp the ends to prevent moisture from leaving the
pot; place a lid on top of the pot to hold the foil in place.
8. Place the covered pot in the preheated oven, and bake for 1 hour.
9. Remove from the oven and check seasoning; serve.
Gosht pulao (spiced
stewed lamb with
basmati rice)
*Am Kulfi NORTHERN INDIA Ice cream in India is thought to have originated from the Moghuls of
(INDIAN MANGO ICE CREAM) central Asia and was being made in India as early as 1590 for the Moghul
Ingredients emperor Akbar. Traditionally, it is made by placing the mixture in conical
earthenware containers that are sealed with dough and packed into ice-
3 cups Condensed Milk filled containers. The result is somewhat granular but delicious!
2 cups Whole Milk Yield: 2.5 quarts
1 tsp Cardamom, ground Cooking Method: Poaching/Infusing
2 oz Sugar, granulated or Freezing Method: Set Freezing or Alternative Method of Turned Freezing
superfine
Procedure
3 oz Pistachios, ground (optional) 1. In a small saucepan, combine the condensed milk, whole milk,
ground cardamom, sugar, and pistachios; bring mixture to a gentle
2 cups Sweetened Condensed Milk simmer over a low flame.
1.5 lbs Mango Purée (preferably
fresh ripe mangoes or, if
those are unavailable, frozen
mangoes)
2. Once simmering gently, continue to cook over a very low flame for
5 minutes to infuse flavors into the mixture.
3. Remove the pan from the heat, and allow it to cool completely by
stirring over an ice bath to prevent the formation of a film.
4. Once cooled, add the sweetened condensed milk and mango purée.
(continues)
CHAPTER 15 CUISINES OF THE INDIAN SUBCONTINENT 399
*Am Kulfi 5. Taste the mixture for mango flavor, which should be pronounced; if it
(continued) isn’t, add more mango (the ripeness of the mangoes will affect this).
6. Place the mixture in a metal container and store in the freezer until
solidified.
An alternate method is to place it in an ice cream–making machine
and freeze according to instructions, which will result in a smoother ice
cream that is more similar to the European style commonly found in the
United States.
Am kulfi (mango ice cream)
SUMMARY REVIEW QUESTIONS
The cuisine of the Indian subcontinent is one of spices 1. What is the dominant religion in India, and
and vegetarianism, and it includes a wide variety of how does the religion influence the dietary
starchy ingredients that are commonly combined with habits of the population?
vegetables and legumes. The Indian subcontinent
includes India, the Muslim country Pakistan, Nepal, 2. Which part of the subcontinent is known for
Bangladesh, and Sri Lanka. These countries share the using a lot of chiles and making the food quite
common use of spices in everyday cooking but vary spicy?
notably in the level of spice used and also in the typical
foods eaten. Indian cuisine is known for its many veg- 3. In which part of India did the tandoor oven
etables and starches, partly because so many residents originate?
are vegetarians as a result of their Hindu, Buddhist, or
Jain religious beliefs. When animal foods are eaten, it is 4. What Indian word is the root of the term curry,
most often fish, goat, lamb, or poultry; the cow is con- and how has this name changed in meaning
sidered sacred in India, so beef is not eaten. Butter is over time?
highly prized, however, because it is considered a puri-
fying food. Butter is most commonly processed into a COMMON TERMS, FOODS,
clarified form called ghee that is often used as a cooking
fat. The toasting of spices in oil or ghee—and adding AND INGREDIENTS
this seasoning to cooked foods—is one of the unique
characteristics of this cuisine, as are the many types of The cuisine of the Indian subcontinent is an ancient
flatbreads that are common throughout this region. cuisine with many traditional foods and recipes. For
additional information regarding legumes and pulses,
see the “Unique Components” section of this chapter.
The following guide will help to navigate the terms that
are encountered when learning about this cuisine.
400 SECTION 4 CUISINES OF ASIA
ᩬIngredients and Foods pepper, ginger, chili, and sometimes pomegranate
powder (anardana) and mint
adrak – Ginger root
aloo – Potato dhansak masala – Spice blend common in the western
am – Mango coastal region of India, where Persian peoples landed
am choor – Green mango powder; sour powder used to add and influenced the cuisine. This blend would typically
tartness to dishes (also called khatai) contain cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, cumin, black
asafoetida – Dried sap of large fennel-like plant common to pepper, coriander, nutmeg, star anise, fenugreek
Indian subcontinent; used extensively in the cuisine, leaves, ginger, and chiles
especially in dals and bean dishes that are broken down by
components in the asafoetida that aid in digestion. This has garam masala – Common spice blend of northern
a very pungent smell that mellows when cooked and India that contains coriander, cumin, black pepper,
should be used sparingly. cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, bay leaves,
badam – Almond and often a small amount of chili and fennel seeds
basmati – Fragrant rice with elongated thin grains; grown
in the Himalayan foothills tandoori masala – Common spice blend of Punjab made
besan – Chickpea flour (also called gram flour) of cumin, coriander, cloves, turmeric, cinnamon,
bindi – Okra cayenne, mace, and ginger, and usually colored with
brinja – Eggplant red food coloring
chaawal – Rice (uncooked)
channa – Chickpea tikka masala – Tikka actually means “little pieces,” but
dal – Split pulses or legumes (lentils, beans, peas, etc.) the marinated and skewered pieces of meat made in
dhania – Coriander (called cilantro when the leaves are used) this fashion have come to refer to foods coated with a
dhoodh – Milk typical spice mix that includes garam masala, cumin,
elaichi – Cardamom and coriander and often is served with yogurt and
gayka – Beef (only common in non-Hindu areas such as tomato sauce
Pakistan)
ghee – Clarified and caramelized butter, made by caramel- vindaloo masala – This type of spice mixture is a wet
izing the milk solids during the clarification process blend and is heavily influenced by the Portuguese,
gehun – Wheat who once colonized the area of Goa in southwestern
gosht – Lamb or goat (sometimes used as the word meat India. This paste would typically contain vinegar,
would be used in the United States) garlic, chiles, and various additional spices.
gur – Jaggary; unrefined sugar
hari mirch – Red chiles masoor dal – Red-orange lentil
hing – Asefoetida
huldi – Turmeric mattar – Green peas (often called English peas)
imli – Tamarind
jamikand – Yam meetha neem – Curry leaves; unrelated to the term curry or
jeera – Cumin seeds to spice blends, these are leaves from a plant that provide a
kaju – Cashew musky, slightly bitter and aromatic quality to foods
kamel – Lotus root
karakkan – Millet meetha-toray – Sponge gourd
karela – Bitter gourd
lal mirch – Green chiles methi – Fenugreek
masala – Spice mixture
mirch – Peppercorns
chaat masala – Tart spice blend made from green
mango powder, cumin, black salt, asafoetida, black murgh – Chicken
nariyal – Coconuts
paneer – Cow’s milk cheese common in India
piyas – Onion
posto – Poppy seeds
psi hui – Cayenne chili introduced by the Portuguese
ria – Mustard seeds
rajma – Kidney beans
rosematta – Red rice grown in southern India
ruh gulab – Rosewater
saag – Spinach
sambhar – Dried spice mixture made from mustard, cumin,
fenugreek, black peppercorns, coriander, curry leaves,
turmeric, chiles, and asafoetida; common in southern India
CHAPTER 15 CUISINES OF THE INDIAN SUBCONTINENT 401
til – Sesame laddos – Sweets made from chickpea flour and sugar, and
coated with sesame seeds
tindora – Small squash that resembles a cucumber
naan – Leavened flatbread cooked inside a tandoori oven;
yakni – Mutton this bread is common in the northern region of India
ᩬCommon Prepared Foods paneer – Pressed curd cheese
achar – Pickled vegetables paratha – Flatbread that often includes other ingredients by
having them rolled into the dough and then cooked on a
biryanis – Rice and meat dishes common throughout the tava (flat griddle-like pan) with ghee
subcontinent, which are made by layering partially cooked
rice and marinated (and sometimes cooked) meats, and pulao – Rice dish of Persian influence made by coating and
then cooking them together in a sealed earthenware vessel cooking the rice in ghee before it is cooked in a broth or
over a flame until done. These are usually made on festive other liquid. Pulao is often mixed with nuts and seasoned
occasions and are considered the pinnacle of rice cookery with spices.
in the cuisines of the subcontinent.
puri – Deep-fried unleavened bread
chapati – Flat, round bread made from wheat flour and
cooked in oil or ghee on a tava (flat griddle-like pan); raita – Yogurt-based sauce served as a condiment that may
common in the northern part of the Indian subcontinent contain many types of seasonings, such as cucumber and
mint
chhana – Curds made from boiled milk with a souring
agent; used in Bengali sweets roti – Flat, unleavened bread made from atta wheat flour
and cooked on a tava (flat griddle-like pan)
chutney – Relish made from various ingredients; often
sweet and spicy sambar – Southern Indian dish traditionally made with
toovar dal and vegetables, and seasoned with tamarind
curry – Generic English term for foods with a spiced sauce
from the period in which the British colonized India. The sambol – Condiment made from fresh chiles, onions, and
term is thought to have derived from the Tamil kari, which other flavorful ingredients
denoted a dish made with black pepper and which would
typically have a spicy sauce. Curry powder is an English samosa – Meat- or vegetable-filled fried dough, usually
invention and has little in common with the many spice highly seasoned and often served with chutney
blends in India (most are called masala in India).
sandesh – Bengali sweet made from paneer that is sweetened
dahi – Yogurt and flavored with cardamom and mixed with nuts
dal – General term for cooked dishes with pulses or legumes shingara – Bengali name for vegetable-filled samosa
dosa – Thin flatbread made from rice and lentil flour; also ᩬCooking Terms and Equipment
called dosai
baghar – Term for toasting spices in ghee to heighten their
ghee – Clarified and caramelized butter, made by caramel- flavor (also called tarka)
izing the milk solids in butter as it is clarified.
balchao – Pickling
halvas – Sweets made from various grains, fruits or
vegetables, sugar, milk or cream, ghee, and often spices; batta – Stone pounding tool used for sil batta (like a mortar
very common snacks or offerings on the Indian subconti- and pestle)
nent. Halvas are often made from semolina wheat.
dum – Slow-cooking or braising foods in a sealed pot; this
idlis – Steamed rice bread was traditionally done in pots whose lids were sealed with
dough to prevent moisture from escaping
kachoris – Deep-fried breads with various fillings
sil – Large stone with a bowl shape; used to pound foods to
kari – Tamil name for “sauce”; probably the source of the a paste (such as when making spice pastes) using a batta (a
term curry. This term is used to describe a spice sauce in stone pounding tool)
which meat or vegetables are cooked (or the generic yellow
spice powder found in stores). tandoor – Clay oven used in northern India and Pakistan to
cook naan and other foods
kichiri – Dish of lentils and rice
tarka – Term that describes the toasting of spices in ghee or
koya – Reduced milk used to make many of the sweet oil before starting a dish, or to be added to a dish after it is
preparations in India done (also called baghar)
kulcha – Wheat bread common in Hyderabad tava – Flat griddle-like pan used to cook many of the
flatbreads common throughout the subcontinent
kulfi – Indian ice cream (pistachio, mango, and vanilla are
traditional flavors) made from condensed milk (called koya tikka – Literally translates to “small pieces”; used to
in India) describe foods that are cut up, marinated, skewered, and
grilled, or baked in a tandoori
chapter 16
85˚ 90˚ 95˚ 100˚ 105˚ 110˚ 115˚ 120˚ 125˚
NEPAL BHUTAN Irrawaddy River Mekong River CHINA
BANGLADESH
25˚ VIETNAM 25˚
TAIWAN 20˚
INDIA Hanoi 15˚
BURMA 10˚
(MYANMAR) LAOS
20˚ Irrawaddy River CHAINEVientiane
BAY OF BENGAL
Rangoon THAILAND A N N A M I T IMQeUkoEng River SOUTH CHINA SEA
Chao Phraya River GTUHLAFILOAFND
15˚ MOUNTAINS
Bangkok
CAMBODIA
Phnom Penh
PHILIPPINES
Ho Chi Minh
10˚ ANDAMAN SEA
STRMAAITLAOCFCA
5˚ 5˚
MALAYSIA BRUNEI
Kuala Lumpur
MALAYSIA
Singapore
0˚ 0˚
N INDONESIA 5˚
10˚
WE
5˚ 0 250 500 km
S
towns and cities
capital city
river
10˚
international boundary
mountains
402
85˚ 90˚ 95˚ 100˚ 105˚ 110˚ 115˚ 120˚ 125˚
Southeast Asian Cuisine
OBJECTIVES
Upon completion of this chapter, you will be able to
● identify the countries that constitute Southeast Asia.
● identify ingredients that are indigenous to Southeast Asia.
● discuss what makes Southeast Asian cuisine unique.
● prepare some recipes common to Southeast Asia.
● list some of the major ingredients that are the foundation of Southeast
Asian cuisine.
● define the terms listed at the conclusion of the chapter.
INTRODUCTION
Southeast Asia encompasses the countries of Burma (also called Myanmar),
SLaos, Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia, and part of Malaysia, which make up the
mainland of the southern part of Asia, separating the Bay of Bengal and the
South China Sea. These countries are home to a rich culinary tradition that is
known for its flavorful and healthy characteristics. For Americans, the most well
known of these cuisines is probably Thai cuisine, which has become quite popu-
lar since the Vietnam War, after which many Thai and Vietnamese people immi-
grated to the United States. Although the other cuisines are less known, they will
seem familiar to anyone who patronizes Thai or Vietnamese restaurants in the
United States.
Much of Southeast Asia has a tropical climate and thus is home to many
tropical crops. The river systems throughout the countries are vital to the liveli-
hood of much of the population, who rely on the rivers to supply water to the vast
rice paddies found in nearly all of the valleys as well as aiding travel via boat.
Southeast Asia is home to the largest exporter of rice in Thailand and has access
to the rich waters of the Gulf of Thailand, the South China Sea, and the Bay of
Bengal. Not surprisingly, fish and sea products play a major role in the cuisines of
most of the countries encompassed by this area.
The people of Southeast Asia have immigrated to this area from a variety of
other regions, with the largest groups from China, the islands of Indonesia, and
India. Many of the eastern and central populations can trace their heritage back
to China, because periods of historic unrest or brutal leadership drove ethnic
groups and families from western China into Southeast Asia. Many groups also
came from the islands of Indonesia and moved primarily into Malaysia, southern
Thailand, and Cambodia. The northwest (particularly Burma) experienced sig-
nificant influence from India, as well as a long history of immigration from the
Mongols, of whom many Burmese are descendants.
403
404 SECTION 4 CUISINES OF ASIA
The countries in Southeast Asia have experi- with them their customs and cooking habits. Many of
enced their fair share of conflicts and external influ- the ethnic groups of Southeast Asia can be traced
ences throughout their history. Some of the significant back to parts of southern China and, not surprisingly,
influences were periods of rule by the Chinese in some numerous techniques and common cooking habits
parts of Southeast Asia, the effects of trade routes are evident in both cultures. Stir-frying and steaming
going through much of Southeast Asia, and the colo- are common techniques in much of Southeast Asia
nization of all of the countries but Thailand by Euro- and most likely were part of the customs of those who
pean powers. Throughout these periods of unrest, the migrated from China to this area. In addition, the
people and the cultures have adapted and thrived, cre- techniques of making pickled foods, rice noodles, and
ating what has become one of the most sought-after wheat noodles are also believed to have been intro-
cuisines in the world. duced to the Southeast Asian region by the Chinese.
Other important introductions from China include
SIGNIFICANT CULINARY INFLUENCES soy sauce, star anise, fermented bean sauce, bean
curd, the wok (Malaysia and Thailand), and chop-
The cuisines of Southeast Asia are unique among the sticks (Thailand and Vietnam).
cuisines of the world for their reliance on highly fla-
vored aromatic ingredients in making many of the Indian
common foods to accompany rice. Although the cui-
sine is unique, its influences are also quite evident and It is believed that areas of Southeast Asia were at
can be traced mainly to India and China (along with times either part of the Indian Empire or under the
some influences from the periods of European domi- rule of the leaders of India; as a result, a number of
nation in this region in more recent times). These Indian methods and techniques are found in much of
influences are examined in the following section. Southeast Asia’s cuisine. The areas of Southeast Asia
that have been most affected by the Indian influence
Early Peoples and Traditions are those more easily accessed from the west. Indian
spices flowed into this region and became a major
A number of ethnic groups are thought to have been part of the cuisine of this area as a result of the trade
the early inhabitants of the Southeast Asian region, and interaction between the people of India and
including Mon (in present-day Burma),Thai (through- Southeast Asia. Some of the Indian spices and vege-
out all of present day Southeast Asia, especially Laos tables that are common in Southeast Asian cuisine
and Thailand), Khmer (present-day Cambodia), and include tamarind, turmeric, ginger, gourds, onions,
Hmong (hills of Southeast Asia), as well as Malay and garlic. One of India’s major contributions to the
(present-day Malaysia) and Han (China and through- cuisine of Southeast Asia was the practice of making
out present-day Southeast Asia). The diets of these spice blends—in particular, wet spice blends—that
groups featured numerous differences, because they are often referred to as curries by Westerners. In many
lived in different areas, but they also had some simi- parts of Southeast Asia, the freshly made spice blends
larities. One similarity was the reliance on rice as the lend much of the aromatic flavor to the dishes that
main component of their diet, something that has make them so distinct. Although many of the ingre-
persisted in this area to this day. Many also made a dients used to make these dishes may not come from
sauce out of nam pla (fermented fish) or a paste out of India, such as galangal and kaffir lime, the technique
fermented shrimp; both of these preparations still for making and using them does. The isolated areas
exist in the cuisine of Southeast Asia today. In addi- of Laos and parts of Vietnam are less influenced by
tion to the rice and sauces, these early people also Indian techniques and the use of spice blends is less
were known to use galangal, lemongrass, limes, and prevalent in the cooking.
coconuts in their cooking—all ingredients that pro-
vide much of the character of Southeast Asian food. Portuguese
Chinese The Portuguese traders of the sixteenth century set
up posts in Malaysia and Indonesia to the south, and
Over the centuries, the Chinese have migrated into the flow of ingredients from Europe and eventually
the countries of Southeast Asia and have brought the Americas thus increased. As in other parts of the
CHAPTER 16 SOUTHEAST ASIAN CUISINE 405
world, the introduction of foods from the Americas Vietnamese restaurants are common in most cities,
changed the cuisine of this region forever. Chiles were and the foods that are attracting people highlight
quickly adopted and are now one of the dominant some of the components that make these cuisines so
seasonings throughout much of Southeast Asia. popular. The following section examines some of the
Other important crop foods from the Americas that aspects that make these cuisines stand out.
were introduced by the Portuguese include corn,
beans, peanuts, cashews, papaya, cassava, tomatoes, Rice
and potatoes. Many of these have become major crops
throughout Southeast Asia: papayas are commonly Rice is a basis of the diet throughout Southeast Asia
used in salads, peanuts are used for oil or making and in the daily lives of the many ethnic groups
sauces (and to give crunch and flavor to salads), beans found in this part of the world. Although the meth-
are a common vegetable, cassava is used to make flour, ods used to cook rice may differ, and in some cases
and tomatoes are added to stews and salads. Of all of the types of rice used may vary, the reliance on rice
the foods introduced at this time, the chili is most sig- as the basis of a meal remains constant throughout
nificant, because it provides a distinct characteristic much of this region. Most of the countries of South-
to the cuisines of Southeast Asia, particularly Malay- east Asia utilize the longer grains of rice, with the
sia and Thailand. Chiles are prized for their fiery heat exception of Laos and parts of northern Thailand,
and cooling effect on the body. where short-grain sticky rice is used regularly. This
likely explains why Laotian food differs from the
French Colonization other cuisines; Laotian food is often drier and
includes little sauce (otherwise, it would be difficult
The French sought to gain a foothold in the spice trade to eat, because hands are often used to eat the rice
and with other traded goods from Asia that began in and it would fall apart if not for the sticky rice). In
earnest with the Portuguese in the sixteenth century. much of Southeast Asia rice is cooked by the absorp-
After repeated failed attempts to establish a colony in tion method and most often is cooked plain and
Southeast Asia, the French were successful in the late unseasoned, to be served with other flavorful foods.
nineteenth century and eventually gained control of Foods with flavorful sauces complement the rice per-
present-day Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam. There are fectly. Rice cooked by the absorption method is fluffy
remnants of the French colonial period in all of these and readily takes on the flavors of sauces.
areas, although the culinary influences are mostly
minimal, with Vietnam being the most heavily influ- Rice is also consumed in the form of rice noo-
ences of the three countries. In Vietnam, sandwiches dles, which are very common throughout this region.
are common and are made with baguettes that reveal Broths filled with rice noodles and surrounded by
the French influence; the famous northern Vietnam- garnishments and condiments are a regular dish in
ese soup called pho is also believed to be strongly influ- many parts of Southeast Asia. In Vietnam, pho (pro-
enced by the French penchant for making stocks. The nounced “pha”) is the daily fare for most of the pop-
French introduced coffee into Southeast Asia, and ulation; in Thailand and Cambodia, the same type
this has also been adapted into the culture of the of preparation is made but with different names, and
Vietnamese. Although the French influence isn’t a there are numerous examples of stir-fry dishes and
major part of the cuisine of Southeast Asia, it does salads made with rice noodles. Rice is a fundamental
provide another unique layer. part of Southeast Asian cuisines, and any discussion
of the traditional foods of this region should start
UNIQUE COMPONENTS with rice.
The cuisines of Southeast Asia are unique for their Lemongrass, Ginger, Kaffir Lime
aromatic qualities, their expert use of fresh ingredi- Leaves, Coconuts, and Other Flavor
ents, and their choice of dishes to complement rice, Powerhouses
which provides the basis of nourishment in the diet.
Southeast Asian cuisines are currently experiencing The cuisines of Southeast Asia are very distinctive in
great popularity in the United States. Thai and large part because of the aromatic ingredients that
are a central part of the cooking. Similar to the way
garlic and basil provide a distinct Italian flavor to
406 SECTION 4 CUISINES OF ASIA
foods, the use of lemongrass, ginger, kaffir lime leaves, and aromatic qualities to it. These aspects are regu-
fish sauce, and other highly aromatic components in larly found if one looks more closely at the ingredi-
the cooking of Southeast Asia makes it easily identifi- ents that are common throughout the region. Chiles,
able and distinct. ginger, garlic, and peppercorns all provide spicy
characteristics to the foods they are used in; limes
Lemongrass has a distinct aroma reminiscent of and tamarind are commonly used to provide the sour
lemon/citrus that it lends to soups, stews, and curries component; sweetness comes from coconut milk,
and that cannot be duplicated. Ginger and galangal palm sugar, and jaggary (unrefined sugar); the salty
(also called kha or laos) are other intensely fragrant character is found in fish sauce; and bitterness is pro-
ingredients that are commonly used in many of the vided by the many greens and herbs that are used.
same types of applications as lemongrass. All are very Add to this the aromatic qualities of kaffir lime
woody and will not soften from cooking; they are best leaves, lemongrass, ginger, and galangal, and you
used in a sachet—minced or microplained very fine— have a complex composition that—when blended
or, in the case of lemongrass, smashed with a mallet properly—creates the magic that is instantly recog-
and then removed before serving. In traditional South- nizable as a dish from this region of the world. This
east Asian cooking, lemongrass, ginger, and galangal balance is something that is achieved through tast-
are all typically sliced thin and used as whole slices in ing one’s way to a properly seasoned food, knowing
soups and stews. Americans are often surprised to which ingredients provides which aspect, and adjust-
find hard pieces in their soups and stews; thus, pro- ing the final product with whatever is needed to
cessing these ingredients differently may be the best bring the whole food into the desired harmony.
approach (however, leaving these ingredients in soups Although this may sound daunting, it is precisely
and stews helps to release more of their flavors into the skill that every chef needs to master if he or she
the foods). These aromatics are also used in the curry wants to cook great food every time; ingredients
pastes made by crushing these ingredients (along don’t remain static, and the ability to recognize and
with others). adjust a recipe to bring about the proper balance of
flavors should be the goal of anyone who creates
Kaffir lime leaves are another distinct aromatic great food.
ingredient used in Southeast Asian cookery. These are
also commonly added to soups and stews and some- Curry Pastes
times ground into curry pastes. Kaffir lime is a specific
variety of citrus that is indigenous to Southeast Asia One of the components that distinguishes the cui-
and is now being grown in the United States as well sines of Southeast Asia is the many pastes that are
(where fresh leaves are available in Asian specialty common here, particularly in Thailand. These pastes
stores). are called curry pastes here in the United States and
can be made from a variety of ingredients and differ
Because Southeast Asia is a tropical region, a strongly from the curries of the Indian subcontinent
number of tropical crops are used extensively in the in that they contain more fresh ingredients and sig-
cuisines. Coconuts, for example, are used for their nificantly fewer dried spices. The word curry is Indian
coconut milk, which provides a rich character to in origin; it was derived from a Tamil (Indian lan-
many of the typical curries and soups found in this guage) word that described spiced foods served with
region. rice. The term is now widely used to describe the
spiced foods as well as the pastes used to make them
Balance of Flavors and Aromas in Southeast Asian cuisine. In Thailand, the word
gaeng (phonetic spelling) is used for curry and, like
One constant in the cuisine of Southeast Asia is the the Tamil use of the word, refers to a sauce served
use of many highly flavored components that have with food.
strong flavor character and often can dominate a
dish (such as those discussed in the previous sec- Most of the curries in Southeast Asian cui-
tion). Although these ingredients are highly aro- sine use either a water base or a coconut milk base for
matic and flavorful, the chefs and population in the liquid part of the sauce. The ingredients used in
general of these countries are experts at balancing these sauces are quite varied and include some of the
these aspects in recipes. A dish that is created well
will have a balance of sour, sweet, salty, bitter, spicy,
CHAPTER 16 SOUTHEAST ASIAN CUISINE 407
more fragrant flavors available. Some common com- the indigenous groups, colonization history, and
ponents of the curry pastes are lemongrass, red or geographic and agricultural differences. The follow-
green chiles, shallots, ginger, galangal, shrimp paste, ing guide explores these variations, as well as the
kaffir lime leaves, coriander root (the roots of the ingredients used in the each of the countries that
cilantro plant), and other dried spices. These ingredi- make up Southeast Asia. The guide is organized from
ents are combined in various quantities; adding or west to east and then from north to south.
omitting these or other ingredients yields a diverse
collection of highly flavored pastes that are used to Burma (Myanmar)
make the sauces of this region.
Burma is bordered by India to the northwest, China to
Some of the more common pastes are as the northeast, Laos and Thailand to the southeast,
follows: and the Bay of Bengal to the southwest. Burma has a
central valley that is surrounded by very rugged high-
gaeng kiew wahn – Green curry paste; this paste is lands, and the climate throughout is tropical (with
made from unripe chiles, which provide much of the monsoon seasons that differ in the southwest and
green color, and may also include herbs as part of the northeast). The original inhabitants of Burma immi-
blend. This curry is often used with poultry dishes. grated from present-day Mongolia and China and
were descendants of the Mon peoples. In addition to
gaeng leuang – Yellow curry paste; this paste con- these original inhabitants, people from the Khan
tains turmeric, which gives it a rich yellow color. It is armies (China), Tibet, Southeast Asia, and India have
usually used with poultry. become significant ethnic groups. The major religion
of Burma is Buddhism, with a small but significant
gaeng mussaman – Mussaman curry paste; influ- amount of Christian as well.
enced by India, this paste contains dried coriander
and cumin as part of the blend and typically adds lem- Burma is a major producer of rice, and the fer-
ongrass and garlic or shallots, as well as some chiles. tile central valley—fed by the Irrawaddy River—
produces the long-grain varieties that are commonly
gaeng panang – Panang curry paste; roasted and used in Burma. Burma was the world’s leading rice
ground peanuts are added to this paste. producer until relatively recently, because political
turmoil has impacted the country’s economy. The
gaeng peht – Red curry paste; this paste uses either Burmese are unique in that they cook their rice with
dried or fresh red, ripe chiles along with galangal and salt, which most other Southeast Asians do not.
lemongrass. It is used in a variety of coconut milk–
based dishes. Burma has been an independent country since
1948, when it won its independence from England
gaeng som – Orange curry paste; this has a higher and officially changed its name to Myanmar in 1989
proportion of shrimp and is typically used in seafood (although it is still commonly called Burma). The
dishes. English influenced this region to some degree during
their colonization of India and Burma, although not
Although these are Thai curry pastes, the same styles as significantly as in India. Some of the ingredients
are found in other sections of Southeast Asia, where that are commonly used in the Burmese kitchen are
they are known by different names but often follow cilantro, garlic, ginger, chili, water spinach, turmeric,
very similar techniques and use similar ingredients. cumin, coriander seed, cinnamon, coconut milk, fish
This type of sauce making is certainly one of the sauce, long-grain rice, legumes and fish. The cuisine
strong characteristics of the cuisines of Southeast of Burma reflects the trading relationship that has
Asia, and it is one of the reasons for the growing pop- existed between Burma and India for centuries; as a
ularity of this region’s culinary traditions. result, there are many examples of foods similar to
those found in India, particularly eastern India (see
SIGNIFICANT SUBREGIONS Chapter 15, “Cuisines of the Indian Subcontinent,”
for more information). Although the cuisine of Burma
The cuisines of Southeast Asia all share a generally is clearly influenced by Indian cuisine, it is more simi-
familiar theme but feature important variances from lar to the other cuisines of Southeast Asia: rice is the
one location to the next, largely due to the history of
408 SECTION 4 CUISINES OF ASIA
main ingredient and is often served with foods cooked hua khar (galangal), bai si khai (lemongrass), mark
in spiced sauces. Fish and shellfish are also common karm (tamarind), and rau ngo (cilantro), to name just
in the cuisine and are found on the tables of those a few.
who do not practice a strict interpretation of
Buddhism. Laotian cuisine has many foods in common
with neighboring Thailand; although the food is less
Laos spicy than typical Thai creations, it is still common
to see many curries that resemble those of Thailand.
Laos is a landlocked country that is mainly bordered Some of the other prepared foods found here include
by Vietnam to the east and Thailand to the west. It is kaeng jeuud kalampi (pork and cabbage soup with
also bordered by China to the north and Cambodia to egg), kaeng som pa (fish soup seasoned with lemon-
the south. Laos may be landlocked, but its people and grass, fish sauce, lime juice, and cilantro), kalee ped
cuisine are dependent on the water—in this case, (curried duck with potatoes), kai yad sai (braised
the Mekong River that runs through the lowlands chicken stuffed with chiles, cilantro, shallots, and
of the country. Most of the population of Laos lives garlic), and laap (a well-known salad made from
near the banks of the Mekong. Because this is a poor pounded meat or fish seasoned with mint, lime juice,
country, the culinary traditions are primarily based fish sauce, and chiles, and topped with roasted rice
on subsistence, with rice, vegetables, and freshwater powder).
fish appearing regularly in the everyday meals. Like
the other countries in Southeast Asia, the climate is Vietnam
tropical and the waterways are vital for both food and
transportation. Vietnam is a long country situated north to south
along the South China Sea; its northern neighbor is
The majority of Laotians are Buddhist, although China, and Laos and Cambodia border it to the west.
a significant portion of the population lives in the The original inhabitants of Vietnam came from
dense forests and hills that surround the lowlands as China, which occupied and ruled over this area until
part of tribes that have no affiliation to the major reli- the tenth century. As a result, there are numerous
gions. Although many are Buddhist, much of the examples of China’s influence on the cuisine, includ-
Laotian population eats pork when it is available, as ing the use of hoisin sauce and oyster sauce and
well as fish and vegetables. seasonings like star anise and cloves. Some of the
traits leftover from this time include the use of chop-
Laos was part of the Khmer Empire (the main sticks to eat as well as the preponderance of stir-fried
population was centered in Cambodia) prior to an foods. Although Vietnamese cuisine often reveals
influx of Lao people from China in the thirteenth cen- Chinese influences, it is also quite distinct in a num-
tury. In more recent years, Laos was ruled by the ber of ways. There is little fat used in Vietnamese
Siamese (Thai) prior to a period of colonization by the cooking, most vegetables are eaten raw, and fish
French as part of Indochina. There are many similari- sauce is the major condiment used (rather than soy
ties between Laotian cuisine and Thai cuisine, as well sauce). Vietnam also has been greatly influenced by
as numerous examples of French influence, such as its period of French occupation—beginning in the
baguettes, dressed salads, and cakes. late sixteenth century, followed by eventual rule
from 1883 to 1954, when Vietnam was a French
The preferred rice in Laos is short-grain gluti- protectorate—and the daily sight of baguettes in
nous rice that is steamed in bamboo baskets to yield the streets and pâté in the restaurants attests to this
very sticky rice, which is used as a utensil to eat the period.
food accompanying it. The sticky rice that is found at
nearly every meal is normally served with vegetables Most Vietnamese do not affiliate themselves
and (most often) freshwater fish, if a protein is eaten. with any religion. Of those who do, about half are
The most common seasonings used are fish sauce, Buddhists; the next largest group is Christians.
galangal or ginger, lemongrass, chiles, Thai basil,
mint, and cilantro. Vietnam is blessed with fertile land and a long
coast with plentiful seafood. The northern part of the
Some of the ingredients common to this coun- country is colder and has a smaller variety of produce
try’s cuisine are nam pa (fish sauce), padek (fermented available than the warmer, southern portion of the
fish pieces), khao niao (sticky rice), khao khoua (roasted country. Both areas are bordered by the sea, and thus
rice), ped (duck), sommu (spiced pickled pork sausage),
CHAPTER 16 SOUTHEAST ASIAN CUISINE 409
seafood plays a central role across all of Vietnam. Thailand
Vietnamese cuisine is often divided into three sections:
the north, where living is more difficult and the food Thailand is a country shaped like an elephant head;
often is used for subsistence; the central portion of the it encompasses much of the heart of mainland
country, which has a history of a more sophisticated Southeast Asia and stretches down toward the
cuisine; and the south, which has the most diverse islands of Malaysia and the Gulf of Thailand.
cultural influences and access to ingredients. The Thailand is bordered by Burma to the north and
majority of the people spend their days working out- west, Laos and Cambodia to the east, and Malaysia
side, and markets and street vendors are a big part of to the south. The vast majority of Thai residents are
the daily scene in Vietnam. The street vendors sell Buddhists, and all Thai men spend a period of time in
snack foods that the public are always eager to sam- one of the many monasteries through the country.
ple. Many foods are wrapped in banana leaves, formed Although it is a predominantly Buddhist country,
into cakes, or used as fillings for thin pancakes similar vegetarianism is not a major dietary pattern in
to crepes (from the French influence) and sold by Thailand. The original inhabitants of present-day
vendors. Thailand are thought to have migrated from China
during the rule of the Mongols; as a result, Chinese
The Vietnamese prefer long-grain rice; it is culinary customs are apparent in Thailand. Thai-
cooked without salt and instead is seasoned by the land has never come under the control of a European
sauces that accompany it. Much of the cooking at power, although the colonization of countries sur-
home in Vietnam is done over a fire, whether it is rounding it has influenced the cuisine and eating
grilling foods or cooking in a wok that is heated by habits of the Thai people.
the fire. Most foods are served with fresh ingredients
that can be added to the dish by the person eating at A number of culinary practices show the influ-
his or her will. It is very common for foods to be ence of Chinese ancestral roots, such as the use of a
assembled at the table so that those eating it also take wok and the context of the five flavors (salty, sour,
part in making it. bitter, sweet, and spicy). Indian influence can be
found as well, particularly in the curries, but—like
Some of the ingredients (besides rice) that are Vietnam—Thai cuisine differs from these other cui-
common to this country’s cuisine include nuoc mam sines in many ways. Thai cuisine is considered the
(fish sauce), bac ha (mint), banh trang (rice paper or spiciest in Southeast Asia, and the spiciness often
wrapper), ca de (Japanese eggplant), dau dua (long comes from the pastes that are commonly used to
beans), gia (bean sprout), ca rot (carrot), cu cai trang make the many curries found in this country. In
(daikon radish), dau phong (peanut), gung (ginger addition, the cuisine of Thailand differs from those
root), chanh vo xanh (lime), rau muong (water of the other countries thanks to a long tradition of
spinach), and ngo gai (saw leaf; a type of herb). The restaurants in Thailand. Although other countries
specialty products and recipes from this country have restaurants today, in Thailand restaurants have
include many examples of street food such as banh been part of the everyday life for decades, and this
(savory or sweet cakes or buns, often filled with other has pushed Thai cuisine to a higher level when it
ingredients), pho (broth with rice noodles and various comes to variations and presentations of the foods
ingredients), and cha gio (fried spring rolls). In that are made here. As with all of the other South-
addition to the many street foods, the meals created east Asian countries, rice is the focal point of all
at home center around steamed rice and likely include meals, and foods are generally served all at once—
a number of dishes chosen from the freshest ingredi- family style—to be chosen by guests as desired to
ents found at the market that day (unlike kitchens in accompany their rice.
the United States, most Vietnamese homes have no
refrigerator and thus the people shop daily for food). Rice cookery in Thailand differs greatly in the
A typical meal to accompany the rice would include a north, where short-grain glutinous rice is steamed in
meat or fish dish with a flavorful sauce, as well as a bamboo baskets and often used as a utensil for eating.
couple of preparations with vegetables (often includ- In the south, long-grain rice is boiled and then steamed
ing some that are uncooked), and all served with rice until done, and thus cooked by the absorption
and dipping sauces (always nouc cham). method.
410 SECTION 4 CUISINES OF ASIA
Some of the ingredients common to this coun- this ethnic diversity, it is not surprising that the cui-
try’s cuisine are khao hom ma-ree (jasmine rice), khao sine of Malaysia reflects many cultures.
kate (basmati rice), kwaytiow (rice noodles), makheua
muang (eggplant), prik kii noo (Thai chiles), naw mai This region is predominantly Muslim, and the
(bamboo shoots), ga lum phee (cabbage), puck whan next largest religious population is Hindu; as such,
(water spinach), ma-kham (tamarind), magroot (kaf- the cuisine reflects the foods that are accepted by
fir lime), gape (shrimp paste), nahm ga-ti (coconut these faiths. Muslims do not eat pork and Hindus do
milk), nam pla (fish sauce), takrai (lemongrass), and not eat beef, so the dominant protein eaten here is
kha (galangal). Specialty products and recipes fish. Vegetables and rice are daily components of the
include miang khum (lettuce with chiles, peanuts, Malaysian diet. The climate here is tropical, and the
limes, and sauce), phat thai (noodle dish with savory terrain includes coastal plains that rise to dense
sweet-and-sour sauce), tom kha gai (aromatic soup forests and mountains to the north. The cuisine
with chicken and coconut milk), som thum (green shows strong influences from both China and India,
papaya salad with lime and chili dressing); gaeng because both of these areas have been involved in
kiew wahn (green curry paste), gaeng leuang (yellow trade with the people of the coastal areas of Indone-
curry paste), and gaeng peht (red curry paste) are sia and mainland Southeast Asia and have left their
used extensively to make the many examples of imprint on the foods that are eaten here. Soy sauce,
curry dishes that are typical of a meal found in Thai spice blends, and tamarind are a few of the ingredi-
restaurants. ents from China and India that are common in the
cuisine.
Cambodia
Some of the ingredients in this country’s cui-
Cambodia is located in the southern part of the main- sine that reflect the Chinese influence are kicap (soy
land. It is bordered to the west and south by southern sauce), daging (meat), babi (pork; commonly eaten by
Vietnam, to the north by Laos and Thailand, and it sits nonreligious peoples), sos tarim (oyster sauce), sos
on the shores of the Gulf of Thailand. Cambodia has a plam (plum sauce), hoisin sauce, and spices like star
tumultuous history, having been ruled by Indian, anise and cloves used to make serbuk rempah (five-
Khmer, Thai, Vietnamese, and French populations spice powder). In addition, the Indian influence is
prior to gaining independence in 1953, when the evident in the dry spice blends called rempah, the use
French rule of Indochina ended. The Khmer Rouge of asam jawa and minyak sapi (ghee), and baji sawi
eventually regained power, with horrific results: (mustard seeds). These influences, combined with
between 1975 and 1979, approximately 30 percent the more common Southeast Asian ingredients of
of the Cambodian population was killed. All of these blacan (shrimp paste), kelapa (coconut), budu (fish
periods have left their impact on Cambodia, and there sauce), daun (fresh herbs), pandan (screwpine), san-
are clear examples of Indian, Thai, Vietnamese, and tan (coconut milk), and serai (lemongrass), hint at
French influences in the cuisine. Like neighboring the complexity that is found as one moves south
southern Thailand, the rice eaten here daily is the toward Indonesia. Specialty products and recipes
long-grain variety, and fish sauce, coconut milk, from this country include sambals (chili pastes), nasi
chiles, lemongrass, and galangal are common flavor- goreng (fried rice), rendang (meat cooked with coco-
ing ingredients. nut milk and spiced until dry), satays (skewered and
grilled or griddled meats), and ketupat (rice dump-
Malaysia ling), as well as a number of Indian-inspired foods
such as many of the flatbreads found in India (roti,
Malaysia makes up the southernmost portion of naan, etc.) and Thai-inspired curries with coconut
mainland Southeast Asia and is included within the milk.
area of islands known as Indonesia. The people who
settled this area are mostly ethnic Malay (who can RECIPES
trace their lineage back to China or Taiwan), Chinese,
or Indian/Pakistani, with smaller Thai and Javanese The following recipes provide an overview of some of
(from Indonesia) populations as well. As a result of the many foods that are found in Southeast Asian
cuisine.
CHAPTER 16 SOUTHEAST ASIAN CUISINE 411
*Gaeng Leuang THAILAND This is one of the curries regularly eaten in Thailand; it is influenced by
(YELLOW CURRY PASTE)
Ingredients
1 Tbsp Coriander Seeds nearby India and the use of spices in the dry curries there.
1 tsp Cumin Seeds Yield: 2 cups
1/2 oz Dried Red Thai Chiles Preparation Method: Grinding in Mortar and Pestle
4 oz Lemongrass Stalks, chopped Procedure
(weigh after removing the 1. In a dry sauté pan set over a medium-low flame, toast the coriander
dead outer blades, top and cumin (while moving the pan around to prevent them from
1/3, and root end) burning) until the spices become noticeably more fragrant and
darken slightly.
2 oz Ginger
2. Place the toasted spices in a spice grinder (or a coffee grinder),
1 Tbsp Salt along with the dried chiles, and grind to a powder; set the powder
aside.
2 oz Shallots, minced
3. Using a large mortar and pestle, crush the lemongrass and ginger
1 oz Garlic Cloves, minced together to form a rough paste.
1 Tbsp Dried Turmeric, ground
2 tsp Shrimp Paste
4. Add the salt to the mortar, and continue grinding to work in the salt.
5. Add the shallots and garlic to the mortar, and grind all of the
ingredients together to form a paste (it will not be completely
smooth, like something made in a food processor).
6. Remove the mixture from the mortar. Mix the shrimp paste,
turmeric, and ground spices from step 2 into the curry to finish.
Three curry pastes;
from top to bottom:
gaeng leuang (yellow
curry), gaeng peht
(red curry), and gaeng
kiew wahn (green
curry)
412 SECTION 4 CUISINES OF ASIA
*Gaeng Peht THAILAND Another of the regular curry pastes used in Thai cuisine, this one relies
(RED CURRY PASTE) on the developed taste of ripe chiles for some of its complexity.
Ingredients
Yield: 2 cups
2 Tbsp Coriander Seeds
Preparation Method: Grinding in Mortar and Pestle
1 tsp Cumin Seeds
Procedure
1 tsp Whole Black Peppercorns 1. In a dry sauté pan set over a medium-low flame, toast the corian-
der, cumin, and black peppercorns (while moving the pan around
2 oz Dried Red Thai Chiles to prevent them from burning) until the spices become noticeably
more fragrant and darken slightly.
4 oz Lemongrass Stalks, chopped
(weigh after removing the 2. Place the toasted spices in a spice grinder (or a coffee grinder), along
dead outer blades, top with the dried chiles, and grind to a powder; set the powder aside.
1/3, and root end)
3. Using a large mortar and pestle, crush the lemongrass, cilantro
2 oz Cilantro Roots, cleaned (if roots, galangal, and kaffir lime leaves together to form a rough
unavailable, substitute paste.
1/4 bunch whole cilantro)
4. Add the salt to the mortar, and continue grinding to work in the salt.
2 oz Galangal, chopped (if
unavailable, substitute 5. Add the shallots and garlic to the mortar, and grind all of the
ginger) ingredients together to form a paste (it will not be completely
smooth, like something made in a food processor).
1 Tbsp Kaffir Lime Leaves, minced
6. Remove the mixture from the mortar. Mix the shrimp paste, spice,
1 Tbsp Salt and chili powder into the curry to finish.
2 oz Shallots, minced
1/2 oz Garlic Cloves, minced
2 tsp Shrimp Paste
*Gaeng Kiew Wahn THAILAND
(GREEN CURRY PASTE)
Ingredients Although many people think that red curry is the hottest of the Thai
2 Tbsp Coriander Seeds curry pastes, green curry is usually the spiciest. It is green because it is
1 tsp Cumin Seeds made with unripe chiles—they may be unripe, but they’re still hot!
1 tsp Whole Black Peppercorns Yield: 2.5 cups
4 oz Lemongrass Stalks, chopped Preparation Method: Grinding in Mortar and Pestle
(weigh after removing the
dead outer blades, top Procedure
1/3, and root end) 1. In a dry sauté pan set over a medium-low flame, toast the corian-
der, cumin, and black peppercorns (while moving the pan around
2 oz Cilantro Roots, cleaned to prevent them from burning) until the spices become noticeably
(if unavailable, substitute more fragrant and darken slightly.
1/4 bunch whole cilantro)
2. Place the toasted spices in a spice grinder (or a coffee grinder) and
2 oz Galangal, chopped (if grind to a powder; set the powder aside.
unavailable, substitute
ginger) 3. Using a large mortar and pestle, crush the lemongrass, cilantro
roots, galangal, and kaffir lime leaves together to form a rough
1 Tbsp Kaffir Lime Leaves, minced paste.
1 Tbsp Salt
2 oz Shallots, minced
(continues)
CHAPTER 16 SOUTHEAST ASIAN CUISINE 413
*Gaeng Kiew Wahn 4. Add the salt to the mortar, and continue grinding to work in
(continued) the salt.
1/2 oz Garlic Cloves, minced 5. Add the shallots, garlic, and green chiles to the mortar, and
4 oz Green Thai Chiles, chopped grind all of the ingredients together to form a paste (it will
2 tsp Shrimp Paste not be completely smooth, like something made in a food
processor).
6. Remove the mixture from the mortar. Mix the shrimp paste
and dried spice powder into the curry to finish.
*Gaeng Ped Hoi Mang Phu THAILAND
(THAI MUSSELS WITH COCONUT RED CURRY SAUCE)
Ingredients This is a good representation of a coconut curry that would be served with
14 oz Coconut Milk rice in Thailand. Although in Thailand this may be made with a variety of
2 oz ingredients other than mussels, the mussels work well to highlight how
1 oz Lime Juice seafood can be paired with a strong but balanced sauce such as this.
1 oz Red Curry Paste (see recipe, Yield: 8 portions (8 ounces/portion, including mussel shells; appetizer size)
this chapter) Cooking Method (Sauce): Simmering
Galangal, minced (if
unavailable, substitute ginger)
1 Tbsp Thai Fish Sauce Cooking Method (Mussels): Steaming
1 Tbsp Palm Sugar (if unavailable, Procedure
substitute brown sugar)
1. In a pot large enough to hold all of the mussels, combine the
3 lbs Mussels, debearded and coconut milk, lime juice, red curry paste, galangal, fish sauce, and
scrubbed palm sugar; heat over a medium-low flame to bring the mixture to
a gentle simmer.
1/2 cup Cilantro, minced (about
1/4 bunch) 2. Allow the mixture to simmer for 10 minutes to develop flavor.
Salt, to taste 3. Add the mussels to the pot, and cover; turn heat up to boil/steam
mussels (this should only take a couple of minutes).
2 Limes, cut into wedges
4. As soon as the mussels have opened, remove them from the heat.
Add the cilantro and season with salt.
5. Serve with garnish of lime wedges.
Bowl of gaeng ped
hoi mang phu
(mussels with
coconut curry
sauce)
414 SECTION 4 CUISINES OF ASIA
*Tom Kha Gai THAILAND One of the classic Thai soups served in virtually every Thai restaurant,
(THAI COCONUT CHICKEN SOUP) tom kha gai is full of flavor and quite addictive.
Ingredients
Yield: 1 gallon
2 oz Vegetable Oil Cooking Method: Simmering
1 lb Yellow Onion, diced medium Procedure
1. Heat an appropriately sized pot over a medium flame; add oil,
1 lb Red Bell Peppers, diced and sweat the onions, bell peppers, and mushrooms until
medium soft.
2. Add all of the remaining ingredients—except the chicken and
12 oz Mushrooms, quartered coconut milk—and gently simmer for 1–1.5 hours to develop
flavor.
3 qts Light Chicken Stock (or 3. Add the chicken breast and coconut milk, and bring the mixture
2 qts ϩ 1 qt water, if back to a light simmer. Continue to simmer until the chicken is
dense stock) cooked (5 minutes).
4. Check seasoning and adjust with salt; serve.
10 Kaffir Lime Leaves
Bowl of tom kha gai (Thai coconut chicken soup)
5 Lemongrass Stalks (about
8 oz before trimming), wilted
blades removed, cut into
12-inch sections, smashed
with a mallet, and tied
together with butcher’s twine
5 oz Galangal (if unavailable,
substitute ginger), peeled
and sliced thin
4 oz Fish Sauce
3 oz Lemon Juice
2 Tbsp Dried Thai Chiles, minced
1.5 lbs Chicken Breast, diced
medium
16 fl oz Coconut Milk
CHAPTER 16 SOUTHEAST ASIAN CUISINE 415
*Nam Jim Tua THAILAND This is a very common condiment used in Thailand to accompany
(SPICY/SWEET CUCUMBER RELISH) satays and deep-fried foods. Pickled foods are quite common in South-
Ingredients east Asia because they can be preserved in the humid climate. Pickled
foods also provide a refreshing break from many of the spicy foods
10 oz Rice Wine Vinegar eaten here.
6 oz Palm Sugar Yield: 1 pound
1 oz Tamarind Paste Preparation Method: Pickling with Vinegar
2 tsp Salt Procedure
1. In a small saucepan, combine the rice wine vinegar, palm sugar,
1/2 oz Thai Chiles, minced (if tamarind paste, salt, and chiles. Heat over a low flame until the
unavailable, substitute sugar is dissolved into the vinegar.
2 oz jalapeño) 2. Once the sugar has dissolved into the vinegar, remove the pan from
heat and allow the contents to cool completely before proceeding to
3 oz Shallots, shaved the next step.
3. Combine the cooled sugar/vinegar mixture with the shaved
1 lb English Cucumber, peeled shallots, sliced cucumber, and cilantro; mix thoroughly.
and seeded and then sliced 4. Set mixture in the refrigerator for at least 45 minutes before use
thin (it will keep in the refrigerator for 4–5 days).
1/4 cup packed Cilantro Leaves,
minced
*Phat Thai This is without a doubt the most common Thai recipe found in the
(THAI FRIED NOODLE WITH SHRIMP) United States, although it may be spelled differently on menus (it is
Ingredients often called pad thai). In Thailand, street vendors make phat thai to
order in woks and gain loyal customers if they make it well.
1 lb Rice Noodles, thin (sen lek)
1/2 tsp Ground Thai Chili Yield: 6 portions (8 ounces/portion)
Palm Sugar
2 oz Fish Sauce Cooking Method: Stir Frying
1.5 oz Chicken Stock
Lime Juice Procedure
2 oz Peanut Oil 1. Soften the rice noodles by soaking them in 1 gallon of hot water for
1.5 oz Garlic Cloves, minced at least 15 minutes before starting the recipe.
Shallots, minced 2. Combine the ground Thai chili, palm sugar, fish sauce, chicken
2 oz Chicken Breast, cut into stock, and lime juice in a small mixing bowl; mix and set aside.
1/2 oz 1/4-inch strips 3. In a wok or large sauté pan, heat peanut oil over a high flame. Add
Shrimp (16–20), peeled and the garlic and shallots once the oil is very hot (and be prepared to
1 oz deveined add the next ingredients almost immediately).
4 oz Large Eggs 4. As soon as the garlic and shallots start to color (this will happen
Firm Tofu, cut into almost instantly), add the slices of chicken. Stir to fry them in the
8 oz 1/4-inch strips oil until the chicken is almost cooked (about 1–2 minutes).
Bean Sprouts
2
4 oz
4 oz
(continues)
416 SECTION 4 CUISINES OF ASIA
*Phat Thai 5. Add the shrimp and stir-fry for 30 seconds; add the egg, while
(continued) mixing constantly to cook.
2 oz Unsalted Roasted Peanuts, 6. Once the egg is cooked, add the tofu and soaked rice noodles.
crushed coarsely Toss everything to mix the ingredients and break the egg into
smaller pieces.
1 Lime, cut into wedges
for garnish 7. Add the combined liquids and continue to toss all of the ingredients
together, scraping the sides of the pan to pull off any bits that may
3 oz Green Cabbage, sliced very have gotten stuck.
thin
8. Add the bean sprouts to the pan, and toss to mix. Transfer the
contents to serving dishes, and garnish with lime wedges and
sliced cabbage.
Phat thai (Thai fried noodle with shrimp)
*Som Thum THAILAND This salad is found in Thailand as well as in other Southeast Asian coun-
(GREEN PAPAYA SALAD) tries. It combines the sweetness of palm sugar, the tartness of limes,
and the heat of chiles to make a very flavorful salad. Ingredients from
Ingredients the Americas—chiles, peanuts, tomatoes, and papayas—are all fea-
10 oz Green Papaya (unripened), tured in this recipe.
peeled and cut julienne Yield: 4 portions (4 ounces/portion)
2 Limes, juiced
1 Thai Chili, minced (add more, Preparation Method: Marinating of Fruit with Savory Ingredients
(continues)
if you desire more spice)
2 Tbsp Ginger, minced
CHAPTER 16 SOUTHEAST ASIAN CUISINE 417
*Som Thum Procedure
(continued)
1. Combine the papaya, lime juice, chiles, ginger, palm sugar,
2 tsp Palm Sugar peanut oil, and salt in a mixing bowl, and mix thoroughly to
1 Tbsp Peanut Oil coat the papaya with dressing. Allow the mixture to sit at
1/8 tsp Salt room temperature for 30 minutes to 1 hour to “marinate”
3 oz Cherry Tomatoes, cut in half the papaya.
2 Tbsp Cilantro, minced
2 oz Peanuts, roasted and 2. Add cherry tomatoes and cilantro to the above mixture, and
mix just before serving.
crushed
3. Top salad with crushed peanuts.
Som thum (green papaya salad)
418 SECTION 4 CUISINES OF ASIA
*Pho Bo VIETNAM
(RICE NOODLES IN BROTH WITH GARNISHES)
Ingredients This is a very popular dish, served in areas of the United States in which
For Making the Broth there are Vietnamese or other Southeast Asian populations. There are
many variations of the broth and noodle combination, but the garnishes
6 oz Ginger virtually always stay the same.
2 lbs Onions
1 Thai Chili Yield: 15 portions (12 ounces/portion)
8 Star Anise Cooking Method (Onions, Ginger, and Chiles): Charring over
5 Cloves
1 tsp Black Peppercorns High Heat
5 lbs Oxtails Cooking Method (Dry Spices): Dry Toasting
2 lbs Beef Chuck Cooking Method (Broth): Simmering
2 oz Fish Sauce Procedure
2 oz Sugar
2 gal Water 1. Either directly over a flame or on a grill, char the onion, ginger, and
1 Tbsp Salt Thai chili until blackened on their surfaces. Once all of the onion,
ginger, and chiles have been blackened, peel off the outer skin (that
For Assembling the Pho has been charred) and discard; chop the remaining sections into
1 lb Thin Rice Noodles (bun 1/2-inch pieces, and set aside.
or pho)
2. In a small sauté pan, toast the star anise, cloves, and peppercorns
2 qts Hot Water over a medium-low flame to heighten the flavor (be careful not to
burn them!). Once done, set aside.
(continues)
Bowl of pho bo (rice
noodles in broth) with
garnishes
CHAPTER 16 SOUTHEAST ASIAN CUISINE 419
*Pho Bo 3. Place the oxtails and beef in a stockpot large enough to hold them.
(continued) Cover them with water and bring to a boil.
8 oz Lean Beef, frozen and then 4. Once the water has come to a boil, turn the heat off and remove the
sliced paper thin meat from the pot; discard the liquid.
Broth (see above)
5. Place the blanched oxtails and beef, toasted spices, fire-roasted
For the Garnish onion, chili, ginger, fish sauce, sugar, and water in a stockpot, and
bring to a simmer over a medium-high flame.
8 oz Yellow Onion, shaved
1/2 bunch Scallions, sliced thin 6. Once the mixture reaches a simmer, skim the film developing on
the surface and turn the heat to a gentle simmer.
on a bias
1 bunch Thai Basil 7. After the broth has gently simmered for 1.5 hours, remove the beef
1/2 bunch Cilantro chuck and set it aside to cool.
2 Limes, wedged
2 oz Thai Chiles, minced 8. Once the chuck has cooled, slice it thin and set aside.
9. After the broth has gently simmered for a total of 2 hours, place
the dried rice noodles in a container with 2 qts of hot water to
hydrate.
10. After the broth has gently simmered for a total of 2.5 hours, strain
the broth and keep it hot.
11. To serve, place a small pile of the hydrated rice noodles in a
bowl, along with a couple slices of the beef chuck, and top
with a couple slices of paper-thin raw beef; ladle 8 oz of broth
over this.
12. Serve with a small amount of each of the garnishes, to be added to
the soup by the diner at his or her discretion.
*Nuoc Cham VIETNAM This condiment is used in Vietnam like salt and pepper are used in the
(TABLE SAUCE) United States. It can be found on every table and is used to season
almost anything.
Ingredients
Yield: 1.5 cups
4 fl oz Lime Juice, fresh Preparation Method: Infusing Flavors
4 fl oz Water
1 fl oz Rice Wine Vinegar Procedure
3 fl oz Fish Sauce (good quality) 1. Combine all ingredients in a mixing bowl or a storage container
1 oz Sugar with a tight-fitting lid, and mix thoroughly.
1 Tbsp Garlic Cloves, minced 2. Set in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours before use.
2 Tbsp Thai Chili, minced
1/4 tsp Salt
420 SECTION 4 CUISINES OF ASIA
*Goi Cuon VIETNAM AND CAMBODIA
(RICE WRAP WITH SHRIMP)
Ingredients This is a very healthy recipe that uses only fresh ingredients, cooked
2 qts Water shrimp, and noodles. This would typically be served with nuoc cham.
1 Tbsp Salt Yield: 30 wraps (approximately 3 ounces/wrap)
Cooking Method (Shrimp): Poaching
15 Skewers (approximately Preparation Method (Rice Noodles
6 inches or longer) and Rice Paper): Absorbing/Hydrating
1.25 lbs Shrimp (26–30) (30 shrimp
are needed for 30 wraps)
8 oz Rice Noodles, thin (sen lek) Procedure
8 oz Dau Chua (see recipe, 1. Place the water and salt in a pot that will allow room for the
this chapter) skewers, and set over a medium flame to bring to a poaching
temperature.
6 oz Bean Sprouts
2. Skewer the shrimp by running the skewer right under the shell on
1 bunch Scallions, cut into 3-inch the leg side of the shrimp, all the way out through the tail; place
sections two shrimp on each skewer.
4 oz Cucumber, peeled, seeded,
and sliced julienne
1/2 bunch Fresh Mint 3. Poach the shrimp in the salted water until they just turn pink
(about 2–3 minutes); remove them and set aside to cool.
1/2 bunch Fresh Cilantro
4. Once all of the shrimp have been poached, bring the water to a boil
5 Thai Chiles, minced over high heat; pour the water into a container with the rice
(optional) noodles, and set aside.
30 Rice Paper Wrappers 5. Once the shrimp have cooled, peel and devein them. Then cut them
(8 inches in diameter)
in half the long way, and place them in a container.
6. Drain the noodles and cut them into 4-inch lengths; set them in a
container.
7. Chop the fresh herbs coarsely and mix them with the chiles (if you
are using chiles). Set these in a container and place it near your
work area.
8. Organize your work area by placing all of the fillings in containers
near your cutting board.
9. Place a container that is large enough to immerse the rice paper in
near your work area, and fill it halfway with warm water.
10. To assemble, place the rice paper in the warm water and allow it to
soften (this will happen within a minute); remove the rice paper
and place it on a clean, damp cloth on your work surface.
11. Put about 20 pieces of the rice noodle on the rice paper wrap, along
with approximately 1 Tbsp of the dau chua, a couple pieces of
scallion, a couple pieces of cucumber, and approximately 1 Tbsp of
the herb/chili mixture.
12. Roll the wrap partially by folding up the bottom section and folding
in both sides; then fold the wrap over.
13. Place two pieces of the shrimp (that were cut in half) on the
remaining flap of unwrapped rice paper, and then fold over the last
of the wrap to seal it.
14. Once wrapped, cut the roll in half on a bias and serve it with
dipping sauce (you can use peanut sauce or nuoc cham)
CHAPTER 16 SOUTHEAST ASIAN CUISINE 421
*Goi Ga VIETNAM Salads are a common part of the diet of Southeast Asians, but the sal-
(CHICKEN AND CABBAGE SALAD) ads are often different from what most of us might imagine. It is very
Ingredients common to dress all sorts of foods with a highly flavored mixture that
contains sweet, sour, salty, and spicy tastes. The dressing used in this
For Making the Dressing salad could be adapted to many other salads as well.
5 oz Lime Juice Yield: 20 portions (6 ounces/portion)
3 oz Fish Sauce Preparation Method: Infusing Flavor for Dressing
3 oz Palm Sugar, granulated
1 oz Garlic Cloves, minced Procedure
5 Thai Chiles, minced (if For Making the Dressing
unavailable, substitute
1 tsp 2 serrano chiles) 1. In a small bowl, combine all of the ingredients for the dressing—
4 oz Salt except the peanut oil—and whisk together to combine well.
Peanut Oil
2. Whisk in the peanut oil, and set the dressing aside to allow it to
For Making the Salad infuse.
3 lbs Green Cabbage or Napa For Making the Salad
Cabbage, shredded thin 1. Combine all of the ingredients—except the dressing and peanuts—
in a mixing bowl, and mix thoroughly.
2 lbs Poached Chicken, torn 2. Dress the salad with just enough dressing to coat all of the ingredi-
into shreds ents just before serving, and then place on a plate topped with the
roasted and crushed peanuts.
8 oz Carrots, cut julienne
8 oz Cucumber, peeled, seeded, Goi ga (chicken and cabbage salad)
and cut julienne
1 bunch (about 3/4 cup packed
leaves) Mint, chiffonade
1/2 bunch (about 1/4 cup packed
leaves) Cilantro, minced
Dressing (see above),
as needed
8 oz Dry Roasted Peanuts,
crushed
422 SECTION 4 CUISINES OF ASIA
*Miang Kham LAOS AND NORTHERN THAILAND
(LETTUCE SNACK WITH SPICED FILLING)
Ingredients This appetizer is packed with flavor and makes an excellent buffet
For Making the Sauce starter; it can be completely assembled and refrigerated beforehand,
and simply unwrapped and served when needed. In Laos or Thailand,
1 oz Shallots, minced this would be eaten as a snack and the wrapping may be any number
1 oz Galangal, grated of leafy greens.
5 oz Palm Sugar
1 tsp Thai Chili, minced Yield: 20 appetizers (2 ounces each)
1 Tbsp Fish Sauce Preparations Method: Making Emulsified Sauce
2 oz Coconut, grated
1 tsp Shrimp Paste Procedure
2 oz Lime Juice, freshly squeezed For Making the Sauce
1 Tbsp Tamarind Paste 1. Combine all of the ingredients—except the water—in a food
processor. With the processor running, add water until the
4 oz Water (you may need to mixture has a runny but still slightly viscous consistency.
adjust amount for
consistency, depending on 2. Set the mixture aside while prepping ingredients for
how dry the ingredients are) filling.
For Prepping and Assembling
2 heads Butter Lettuce, cleaned, For Prepping and Assembling
spun dry, and then torn into
pieces about 3 inches in 1. Once the lettuce has been cleaned, spun dry, and torn into 3-inch
diameter pieces, set it in a container next to your work area.
2 Limes, cut into small wedges 2. In a small mixing bowl, combine the remaining ingredients; toss
(with peel left on) gently to mix thoroughly.
4 oz Dry Roasted Peanuts, 3. To assemble, place a few pieces of the lettuce on top of one another.
1 oz unsalted and crushed Top them with approximately 1 oz (about 2 Tbsp) of the coconut/
coarsely peanut/chili mixture, followed by approximately 1 Tbsp of the
sauce.
Thai Chiles (or 2 jalapeño or
serrano chiles), minced
4 oz Coconut, grated
1 oz Dried Shrimp, chopped
1/4 bunch Cilantro, chopped
Miang kham (lettuce
appetizer with spiced
filling)
CHAPTER 16 SOUTHEAST ASIAN CUISINE 423
*Poat Dot CAMBODIA
(GRILLED FRESH CORN WITH SWEET ONION OIL)
Ingredients This common Cambodian street food combines corn from the Americas
10 ears Fresh Yellow or White Corn, with the fish sauce and palm sugar used throughout Southeast Asia.
husks removed Yield: 10 portions (1 ear of corn/portion)
2 Tbsp Vegetable Oil (for brushing Procedure
the corn)
2 oz Fish Sauce (good quality, 1. Preheat the grill.
such as Three Crabs or
Tiparos) 2. Lightly coat the corn with the 2 Tbsp of oil, and cook on the cooler
part of the grill; turn the corn frequently to yield a lightly caramel-
2 oz Palm Sugar ized surface (about 8–10 minutes, turning often). Once the corn is
done, remove it from the grill and set it aside (keep it warm, if the
3 oz Water next step is not yet completed).
1/2 bunch Green Onions, minced
(about 8 onions)
1 Small Thai Chili, minced 3. In a small pot or saucepan, combine the fish sauce, palm sugar,
(optional) water, green onions, Thai chili (if you are using it), and salt.
1.5 tsp Salt Over a very low flame, heat for 5 minutes to infuse flavors and
2 oz Vegetable Oil dissolve sugar and salt (you should have nearly the same amount
of liquid left at the end by keeping the flame very low; if not, add
more water).
4. In a separate saucepot large enough to hold the infusing sauce and
the 2 oz of oil, add the oil and heat over a medium flame until hot.
Add the onion/fish sauce mixture (be careful—it will spit a bit of oil
at first), and cook together until the mixture becomes slightly thick
(about 3 minutes); remove from heat.
5. Once the sauce is ready, coat the corn with the sauce by pouring it
over the cobs or brushing it on with a pastry brush; serve
immediately.
SUMMARY liquid with the curry pastes, resulting in foods that
are rich and full of flavor.
The cuisines of Southeast Asia are some of the most
intensely flavored in the world, and these cuisines REVIEW QUESTIONS
blend techniques from China, India, and other
regions with native ingredients and traditions to 1. What is the climate of Southeast Asia, and
make unique rice-based cuisines of their own. South- how does this impact the availability of
east Asia is primarily a tropical region, which allows ingredients?
for the growing of many fruits and vegetables that
require warmer climates. Rice is the main ingredient 2. Describe a curry of Southeast Asia, and list
throughout Southeast Asia, and the most common some of the typical ingredients that might be
type is long grain cooked by the absorption method. found in one.
Rice is also processed into dough to make dried noo-
dles and sheets for use in different applications. Built 3. What type of rice is most commonly eaten in
around this foundation of rice are many very flavor- Southeast Asia? In which country is this not
ful preparations that often rely on curry pastes for the case?
their flavor. Coconut milk is also used as a cooking
4. What other forms of rice are commonly used in
the cuisine of Southeast Asia?
424 SECTION 4 CUISINES OF ASIA
COMMON TERMS, FOODS, budu – Fish sauce
daging – Meat
AND INGREDIENTS daun – Fresh herbs (leaves)
kelapa – Coconut
Southeast Asian cuisines have experienced tremen- ketupat – Rice wrapped in palm leaves and steamed or
dous growth in the United States in recent years, and boiled to yield a dense rice dumpling
this trend doesn’t appear to be slowing. As a result, it kicap – Soy sauce
is important for students to be familiar with some of kicap manis – Thick, sweet soy sauce
the foods and ingredients that constitute the back- minyah sapi – Ghee (clarified butter)
bone of these cuisines. The following guide explains nasi goreng – Fried rice
some of the more commonly used terms (for informa- pandan – Screwpine (a distinct seasoning)
tion on Thai curries, see the list in the “Unique rempah – Spice paste or spice blend
Components” section of this chapter). rendang – Meat curry made by cooking spiced meat with
coconut milk until the liquid from the coconut milk is
ᩬ Foods and Ingredients from virtually gone
sambal – Chili paste
Specific Countries santan – Coconut milk
satay – Skewered and grilled or griddled meats served as a
Laos snack by street vendors
bai si khai – Lemongrass serbuk rempah – Five-spice powder
hua khar – Galangal seria – Lemongrass
kaeng jeuud kalampi – Pork and cabbage soup with egg sos plam – Plum sauce
kaeng som pa – Fish soup with lemongrass, lime juice, fish sos tarim – Oyster sauce
sauce, and cilantro
kai yad sai – Braised chicken stuffed with chiles, shallots, Thailand
garlic, and cilantro ba mii – Wheat noodle
kalee ped – Curried duck with potatoes ga lum phee – Cabbage
khao khoua – Roasted rice powder gape – Shrimp paste
khao niao – Sticky rice kha – Galangal
laap – Salad made from pounded meat or fish seasoned khanom jiin – Rice noodle made from forcing dough
with mint, lime juice, fish sauce, and chiles and topped through a sieve
with toasted rice powder khao – Rice
mark karm – Tamarind khao hom ma-ree – Jasmine rice
miang kham – Snack common in Laos and northern khao kate – Basmati rice
Thailand in which chiles, limes, peanuts, and coconut are khing – Ginger
wrapped in a leaf and eaten with a sweet sauce kuaytiaw – Flat rice noodle
nam pa – Fish sauce kwaytiow – Rice noodle
padek – Fermented fish and fish sauce with pieces of the fish magroot – Kaffir lime
still in it. This is commonly used to season other foods, with ma kham – Tamarind
the fermented fish pieces often pounded and added to makheua muang – Eggplant
dishes. miang khum – Snack made from wrapping chopped limes,
ped – Duck peanuts, coconut, and chiles in lettuce leaves with sweet
rau ngo – Cilantro sauce
sommu – Spicy pickled pork sausage nahm go fi – Coconut milk
nam jim tua – Pickled and spiced cucumber
Malaysia
asam jawa – Tamarind
babi – Pork
baji sawi – Mustard seed
blancan – Shrimp paste
CHAPTER 16 SOUTHEAST ASIAN CUISINE 425
nam pla – Fish sauce nuoc cham – Condiment sauce made from fish sauce, lime
naw mai – Bamboo shoot juice, chiles, and garlic
phat Thai – Also called pad Thai; dish of rice noodles with
bean sprouts, green onions, and fried egg with sweet-and- nuoc mam – Fish sauce
sour sauce
prik – Chili ot – Chili pepper
prik kii noo – Thai chili
puck whan – Water spinach pho – Flavorful broth served with noodles and various other
som thum – Green papaya salad seasoned with chiles, lime, ingredients
and fish sauce
takrai – Lemongrass pho bo – Beef pho with noodles and garnishes
tom kha gai – Chicken soup with coconut milk, galangal,
lemongrass, fish sauce, and vegetables in flavorful broth rau muong – Water spinach (not related to spinach but used
in a similar manner)
Vietnam
bac ha – Mint toi – Garlic
bang trang – Rice paper or rice wrapper
ca de – Japanese eggplant xi dau – Soy sauce
ca rot – Carrot
chanh vo xanh – Lime ᩬ Southeast Asian Ingredients Found
cu cai trang – Daikon radish
dau dua – Long beans; also called yard-long beans in the United States
dau hao – Oyster sauce galangal – Rhizome related to ginger, with similar uses and
ga – Chicken aroma, but with a slightly stronger flavor and lighter-
gao – Rice colored skin; can be found in the produce section of Asian
gia – Bean sprout specialty stores
goi cuon – Rice wrap with shrimp
goi ga – Chicken and cabbage salad ginger – Rhizome commonly found in supermarkets; has an
gung – Ginger root aromatic quality and a fibrous interior. Ginger can be used
ngo gai – Saw leaf (a type of herb) as a substitute for galangal; it has a slightly different flavor
but works well when galangal is unavailable.
kaffir lime – Type of citrus found in Southeast Asia, the
leaves of which are often used in cooking. The leaves are
very aromatic and contribute their distinct aroma to many
dishes; these can be found in the produce section of Asian
specialty stores
lesser ginger – The name often listed on packages of fresh
turmeric
nam pla – Fish sauce; many varieties are available and
may be found under different names (such as nouc
mam)
chapter 17
75˚ 80˚ 85˚ 90˚ 95˚ 100˚ 105˚ 110˚ 115˚ 120˚ 125˚ 130˚ 135˚
70˚
towns and cities N RUSSIA 70˚
65˚ capital city WE 65˚
river 60˚
60˚ region boundary S
sub-region boundary 0 250 500 km
international boundary
mountains
55˚ 55˚
50˚ MONGOLIA HEILONGJIANG 50˚
Shanshi 45˚
KAZAKHSTAN
JILAN
45˚
KYRGYZSTAN LIAONING SEA
OF
40˚ H Beijing NORTH JAPAN 40˚
g He River KOREA
TAJIKISTAN CHI NA HOPEI GUBLOFHOAFI
SOUTH
uan N o rHtRuhaeneggHaeisRotivneer rSnHANGTUNYGELLOW KOREA JAPAN
35˚ SICHUAN HONON 35˚
Chengtu ANHUI
XIZANG RJIiAvNeGrSU SEA
(TIBET)
I
H Yangtze River angtze
PAKISTAN
ral
M PLATEAU OF TIBET SICHUAN Shanghai
A PENDI
30˚ L A Y A NNEPAL Chungking Y EAST t 30˚
CHEKIANG CHINA
n
M Western Inland HUNAN Ce SEA
on
O
U N T BHUTAN Region tReergni
A I NS
KWEICHOW Foochow
s PACIFIC
OCEAN
25˚ YUNNAN a FUKIEN 25˚
INDIA BANGLADESH Southern E
R e g i o n GUANGDONG TAIWAN
Canton
BURMA GUANGXI Macao Hong Kong
(MYANMAR)
VIETNAM
20˚ BAY GULF OFLAOS SOUTH 20˚
TONGKING CHINA
426 OF PHILIPPINES
BENGAL THAILAND SEA
75˚ 80˚ 85˚ 90˚ 95˚ 100˚ 105˚ 110˚ 115˚ 120˚ 125˚ 130˚ 135˚
Chinese Cuisine
OBJECTIVES
Upon completion of this chapter, you will be able to
● explain what makes Chinese cuisine unique.
● discuss the influence Chinese cuisine has had on other Asian
cuisines.
● recognize the common cooking methods used in Chinese cuisine.
● recognize the recipes commonly found in Chinese cuisine.
● produce a variety of recipes common to Chinese cuisine.
● define the terms listed at the conclusion of the chapter.
INTRODUCTION
When the introductory greeting in a culture translates to “Have you eaten yet?”
Wyou know you are in a country that values cuisine. The Chinese are indeed a
cuisine-focused culture and have one of the oldest civilized, continuous cultures
in the world—one that places emphasis on the importance of what is eaten.
Chinese philosophers, royalty, and even those in the medical profession have all
turned their attention to the types of foods being eaten, the techniques used, and
the quality of the foods and ingredients in their analysis of a healthy population.
Food is intricately intertwined with one’s personal well-being in the minds of
most Chinese-born people, a mentality that cannot be overstated with regard to
Chinese cuisine.
China’s written records go back nearly 5,000 years, to a time when the
Chinese were already cultivating crops, diverting water, and fermenting grains.
Over the centuries, the Chinese developed a complicated and impressive repertoire
of culinary artistry that has now influenced many other cultures throughout the
world. The following chapter examines some of this amazing cuisine by exploring
the regions of China, the influences on the cuisine’s development, and the ele-
ments that make Chinese cuisine different from others.
Chinese cuisine can be intimidating to the Western cook because of the
many unfamiliar ingredients, the seemingly complex methods employed, and the
sheer volume of recipes. Although it is certainly understandable to feel a bit over-
whelmed by this cuisine, cooks should not avoid it—embracing Chinese cuisine
opens the palate, the senses, and the mind to flavors and techniques that are
simply too good and have too much potential to be overlooked.
This chapter should be considered only an introduction because, in reality,
this cuisine is much more deep, varied, and complex than can ever be conveyed in
a single chapter.
427
428 SECTION 4 CUISINES OF ASIA
HISTORIC CULINARY INFLUENCES Persian Influences
China is often thought of in terms of the influences its Another early influence on Chinese cuisine came from
culture has had on other cuisines; although this is the culture that took root in what is now known as the
certainly true, China’s cuisine has also been influ- Middle East, the Persian Empire. The beginning of
enced by others. The following section reviews some what became known as the Silk Road is attributed to a
of the more significant influences on Chinese cuisine. Chinese general named Zhang Qian, who marked this
route; this eventually brought several products and
Early Chinese Culture methods to the northern Chinese from India, the Mid-
dle East, and beyond. From the Middle East came egg-
China is home to one of the oldest settled civilizations plant, spinach, figs, sugar beets, pomegranates, garlic,
in the world, one that has made significant advances walnuts, sesame seeds, and oil. General Qian also
in the areas of agriculture, food preservation, and introduce the mill, which was used to grind the north-
early cooking that rival those of the Middle East and ern grains and eventually led to the ability to make
the Americas (and greatly influenced other Asian noodles and other preparations using flour.
communities). The Chinese have cultivated rice, mil-
let, sorghum, and other crops for many millennia, and Mongols
they established the sophisticated preservation tech-
niques of salting and fermenting many vegetables, Invading tribes from Mongolia ruled part of present-
seafood, and grains to preserve them. Many of these day northern China in the thirteenth century AD
techniques are still part of the Chinese culinary reper- and introduced more of a focus on meat, particularly
toire, and sauces (soy sauce, oyster sauce, black bean lamb and mutton. This influence is still seen, mostly
sauce, etc.) and other condiments often are produced in the northern inland parts of China, although the
using these methods today. Mongols did set up posts in other areas as well—
notably in the area that is discussed in this chapter
Some of the ingredients that were cultivated as the western region (south of Sichuan). The tech-
and eaten in early China include mung bean sprouts, niques that were introduced by the Mongols and are
water chestnuts, bean sprouts, bamboo shoots, lotus still seen in some parts of China include grilling over
root, soybeans, rice, millet, and sorghum. In addition open flames on skewers (as with kebabs) and the pro-
to these crops, the people of early Chinese civilization duction of fermented milk products. It should be
also hunted pigs and fished for many species of fish noted that most of these influences are confined to
that are still found in the waters of the Pacific Ocean populations with heritages that can be traced to the
and in the rivers and streams of China. The strong nomadic Mongolian peoples. Many of these practices
legacy of the people and food of China had an early were specifically avoided by the main Chinese popu-
beginning, and this long history has resulted in a lation, who viewed the Mongols unfavorably after
remarkably diverse cuisine. having been invaded and ruled by Mongol peoples
for a period.
Influences from India
European Colonists and Traders
During the early periods of trading via the Silk Road
(from 200 BC onward), which enabled trading During the age of exploration and colonization by the
between the East and West, a number of foods, prepa- European powers in the beginning of the sixteenth
ration methods, and religious influences flowed into century, China was introduced to the Western world
China from India. Buddhism as a Chinese religion can directly rather than through the spice trade. This
be traced to this time period and provided one of the period saw a number of European powers set up trade
most significant influences on Chinese cuisine: the ports in China and resulted in the flow of more ingre-
belief in the sanctity of all living animals, and thus dients and techniques from Europe. The most impor-
vegetarianism. Although Buddhism is no longer fol- tant of these, with respect to impact on China, came
lowed by rulers of a Chinese dynasty, the traditions from America.
remain, particularly in western China. Some ingredi-
ents and methods that India is thought to have intro- The Portuguese arrived and set up a port in the
duced to the Chinese are sugarcane, coriander, and southern city of Macao in 1514, and they soon intro-
the tradition of blending dry spices, which was prob- duced the ingredients of the Americas to China. Chiles
ably the impetus for the Chinese five-spice powder. were introduced at this point, originally on the coast
CHAPTER 17 CHINESE CUISINE 429
(in Macao, where the Portuguese set up their trading the ground, along with food; and the drying of
post). Most likely as a result of the region’s culinary fish all were introduced by the Chinese to
styles and habits, chiles never caught on in the south- others.
ern region of China, but they did in Sichuan. Sichuan
cuisine already had a tradition of using pungent Although China has certainly adopted tech-
ingredients like ginger and the numbing Sichuan pep- niques and foods from other parts of the world, Chi-
per, so the inclusion of chiles was a natural one. A nese cuisine clearly has had a large outward impact
number of other ingredients from the Americas that on the development of world cuisines. Not only has
were introduced by the Portuguese or other European the cuisine of China influenced the countries that
traders also became very important in various regions surround it, such as Korea, Japan, all of Southeast
of China, including sweet potatoes, potatoes, corn, Asia, Mongolia, and Russia, but through these
and tomatoes. Some of these European influences countries it has also seen its culinary techniques
have had a long history in China; the Portuguese only and ingredients spread to most other parts of the
recently relinquished authority of this area to China, world.
just as the British recently left Hong Kong.
UNIQUE COMPONENTS
Outward Influences
Chinese cuisine is often misunderstood in the United
It is hard to examine the influences on Chinese cuisine States, because the exposure to Chinese cuisine is
without mentioning the profound effect that Chinese often limited to restaurants that have adapted local
cuisine has had on other cultures. Consider some of ingredients and customs to the foods of China. Chinese
the traditions that are believed to have started in cuisine is far more varied and venturesome, and typi-
China: cally contains far less meat than its versions in the
United States. The following guide explores some of
1. Irrigation and Cultivation of Rice: Rice is one the aspects of Chinese cuisine that make it different
of the most common grains in the world (along from others of the world.
with wheat and corn) and is the major energy
source for virtually all southern Asian Chinese Philosophy and Food
countries.
Food is more closely associated with health in China
2. Noodle Making: The making of dough that was than in many other parts of the world, particularly in
pulled thin and dried (and later cooked) is contrast to Western philosophy in this area. Whereas
believed to have originated in China. Marco the typical American who feels ill immediately thinks
Polo visited eastern China and is thought to about medicine or seeing a doctor, in China someone
have brought this technique back to Italy, and who feels ill immediately thinks about diet or seeing
much of the tradition of pasta making in Italy an herbalist. Traditional Chinese medicine is often
evolved from this introduction (there is also food, and included in the education of an individual
evidence that pasta was already being made in growing up in China are the principles of yin and
Italy prior to Marco Polo’s trek, but clearly the yang, and the proper balance of these fundamental
technique was developed in China earlier than components of life in the daily diet. It cannot be
anywhere else in the world). overstated how ingrained this idea is in the Chinese
food culture, and thus in the cuisine of the typical
3. Soy Products: Soy sauce, bean curd, tofu, and Chinese person.
black bean sauce/paste (actually fermented soy
beans) all originated in China and spread into The following are foods that are considered yin,
Japan, Korea, and other cultures. yang, or neutral:
4. Preservation: Many preservation techniques Yin Foods – Almond, apple, asparagus, bamboo,
were developed in China and spread to sur- banana, barley, bean curd, bean sprout, beer, broccoli,
rounding communities. The process of fer- cabbage, celery, clam, corn, crab, cucumber, duck, eel,
menting grain (originally millet and sorghum) fish, grape, honey, ice cream, lemon, mussel, orange,
to yield a preserved liquid; the process of oyster, peppermint tea, pineapple, salt, shrimp, spinach,
pickling first with salt and then with vinegar; strawberry, soy bean, white sugar, tofu, tomato, water,
the process of refrigeration by cutting large watercress
blocks of ice and storing them in huge holes in
430 SECTION 4 CUISINES OF ASIA
Yang Foods – Beef, black pepper, brown sugar, butter, indigenous plant, and similar edibles are often prized
cheese, chicken liver and fat, chiles, chocolate, coffee, in China. The cuisine served in U.S. Chinese restau-
egg, smoked fish, garlic, glutinous rice, ginger, green rants does not even begin to cover the diversity of
pepper, goose, ham, kidney bean, leek, onion, peanut foods that are part of the typical diet in China. Many
butter, roasted peanut, potato, rabbit, turkey, walnut, of these foods would likely be shunned by the typical
whiskey, and wine American, but many more that might be enjoyed
aren’t readily available because of a lack of local pro-
Neutral Foods – Bread, carrot, cauliflower, cherry, duction or the difficulty of transporting them.
lean chicken meat, date, milk, peach, pea, pigeon
(squab), plum, raisin, brown rice, and steamed white The methods used to prepare these foods are
rice often quite efficient; the traditional methods of cook-
ery in China are limited by fuel sources that typically
Food is not viewed primarily as a source of are organic (dried manure and wood or other dried
pleasure and satisfaction, as it is in the United States plant material). Preparing foods by quickly stir frying
(although it has these attributes in China as well). It or steaming are common in Chinese cookery, and
is viewed first and foremost as a component of a bal- these enable the efficient use of a heat source, which
anced well-being that should be attended to in order can then be extinguished for later use (as opposed to
to ensure that the balance is maintained. With this methods that cook for a long time and use more energy
focus on food and its connection to one’s well-being, in the process).
it should not be surprising that the Chinese place a
great deal of importance on the balance of these The high utilization of available products and
components in their diets. This philosophy has many the methods of cooking those products quickly allow
similarities to the Indian or Hindu philosophy of the Chinese to employ efficient cookery. As a result of
balance in the diet; as in India, the diet of the Chi- the recent strengthening of the Chinese economy,
nese has evolved to both nourish and provide a some changes in the Chinese diet are taking place.
balance. Many people in China can now afford to purchase
stoves and other cooking equipment, which could
Efficiency result in changes to Chinese cookery in the future.
No other traditional cuisine can claim the efficiency Cooking Methods
of Chinese cuisine, which as a rule utilizes every part
of a food source and each as quickly as possible, and The methods used in Chinese cuisine differ in a
in the most fuel-efficient manner. The Chinese have number of ways from those used in Western and
become masters of efficiency over the centuries, even many Eastern cuisines. There are said to be
because it has the world’s largest population (about more than 40 cooking methods in Sichuan, with
2 billion people) and a relatively small amount of many of these employing multiple individual meth-
arable (farmable) land (10%, compared to nearly ods as steps. The seemingly greater quantities of
20% in the United States). The terraced hillsides cooking methods taught in Chinese cuisine often
that are found throughout the country are one exam- comprise either these combined methods or specific
ple of such efficiency, as is the centuries-old practice differences in the steps of a particular method. For
of sowing multiple crops in one year (rice in much of example, if a sauce is added when stir frying and is
southern China, and rotating crops of wheat, millet, allowed to reduce until it is almost dry, this is con-
and sorghum in the north). sidered a different cooking method from an identical
recipe that is made without reducing the sauce but
Not only do the Chinese cultivate virtually every thickening it with a starch. In this way, the methods
available piece of land; they are also well known used in Chinese cuisine are often more precise than
for their willingness to eat a wide variety of foods. many that are learned in Western culinary arts.
Many plants and animals that are not considered Much of this precision can be attributed to a more
food sources in the United States and even in Europe developed culinary vocabulary than is common in
are not only eaten but often are considered delica- the cuisines of European influence. The unique
cies in China. Snakes, turtles, small birds, insects, methods employed in Chinese cuisine include chao
larvae, various fungi other than mushrooms, nests of (stir frying), hong shao (red cooking), and many
certain birds, shark fins, nearly every nonpoisonous combination methods.
CHAPTER 17 CHINESE CUISINE 431
Chao, or stir frying, is a technique developed in It should be noted that China has suffered
China that is often compared to sautéing, but in real- through some of the worst natural disasters in his-
ity it differs in some important ways. Stir frying tory, including horrible famines; it is a country with a
requires the constant motion of food; sautéing typi- long history of control by imperial dynasties; it has a
cally is done with periods of constant contact with the population of more than 1 billion people; and it has
pan. Stir frying requires that the food be cut into small developed a communist system that focuses on com-
pieces, but this is not always the case with sautéing. munity, not the individual. As a result of these factors
Stir frying is often begun using strong aromatics such (and others), food is primarily a source of health and
as ginger, garlic, or chiles; when sautéing, these types nourishment, and everything that comes with that
of ingredients may be added after the main ingredi- nourishment (i.e., rice, noodles, and dumplings) is
ents, such as chicken or pork. Stir frying is ideally seen as a luxury to be enjoyed to the fullest.
executed at heats higher than sautéing and results in
vegetables being cooked less. SIGNIFICANT SUBREGIONS
Combination cooking methods are common in China is a large country, slightly larger in size than
Chinese cuisine—in particular, boiling, deep frying, the United States, and some distinct regional varia-
or steaming, followed by another method. The tech- tions can be found in cuisines throughout the land.
nique of deep frying and then stir frying is a common Although Chinese cuisine could certainly be reviewed
combination method that can be seen in a couple of using in-depth analysis, it is commonly perceived—in
the recipes in this chapter. The cooking method called a regional sense—as four main areas of distinct cui-
hong shao, or red cooking, is also unique in that it sines. The following guide examines these four regions
relies on some specific ingredients (soy sauce, rice to help provide an overall picture of the variations
wine, sugar, and aromatics) to break down and simul- that, when brought together, compose this wonderful
taneously glaze the foods that are cooked. (Again, cuisine. The regions are presented from north to south
there is a recipe that employs this method in this chap- and then from east to west.
ter.) The refinement of the cooking methods is cer-
tainly one of the reasons that Chinese cuisine is as Northeastern Region: Hopei/Shangtung/
varied and well respected as it is. Shanshi/Honon/Jilan and Liaoning
Provinces (Major City: Peking/Beijing)
Fan: The Focal Point of the Meal
The cuisine of the northeastern region of China is
One aspect of Chinese cuisine that is often hard for quite different from what many Americans may think
those raised in a European-based culture to grasp is of as Chinese cuisine. This is a cold and mostly arid
the focus that is placed on side dishes. In the United region that has traditionally been a producer and
States, as well as in most European cultures, the focus consumer of wheat, millet, and sorghum—and not
of a meal is the meat, which would be considered the of rice, probably the first ingredient people think of as
main entrée; in China, the focal point is the starch Chinese. Other cold crops, such as potatoes, cabbage,
(the generic term is fan). Ch’in fan translates roughly and onions, are also significant in this region and are
as “to have a meal” or “to eat rice” (or another cooked used extensively in the local cooking (often flavored
grain), and this Chinese saying sums up their with garlic). Although rice is certainly not uncom-
approach to food. The accompaniments to the starch, mon in this region, the other grains are much more
or fan, might include meat, sauces, and vegetables, common still, and significant amounts of wheat-
but the rice is the main component. The mentality based dishes remain the main sources of starch in
toward food and eating is quite different in China— this region today. Noodles, dumplings, steamed buns,
the idea of eating large amounts of a specific food, pancakes, and even some varieties of breads are com-
such as someone eating a steak, would be viewed as mon to this region because of its historic reliance on
selfish and insulting to others. Food is meant to be these grains.
eaten communally, and each person is to enjoy a
small amount of the accompaniments to the rice, Although this region lies right on the ocean,
noodles, or other starch. Thus, everyone is expected and the Yellow River slices through it, fishing is not
to be conservative with regard to the amount of nearly as significant as it is in the more southerly
accompaniments they eat. areas. The little seafood or fish that is eaten is most
432 SECTION 4 CUISINES OF ASIA
often the giant shrimp from the Gulf of Bohai and or used in a hong shao dish, a cooking method that is
carp from the Yellow River. Meat is the protein eaten believed to have originated here. Some of the fine sea-
most often in this region, and the famous Peking duck food that might be found here includes four gilled
is but one technique used to prepare the abundant carp, catfish, shrimp, hairy crab, and other crabs, and
poultry found here. The most common cooking meth- these are often included in some of the region’s soups.
ods in this region are roasting, steaming, and prepar- The most common meat eaten here is pork, such as in
ing soups and stews. the preparation of shi ji tau (“lion’s head”; large pork
meatballs), and pork fat is often used as a cooking fat;
The Mongols descended from the north and chicken and duck are also commonly used.
ruled this part of China, leaving their imprint on the
culinary habits of the local peoples. In this region, one The cooking of this region includes many uses
is more likely to be served lamb, mutton, and the hot of rice dough, including the well-known wor tip (pot
pot, all results of the periods of rule by their northerly sticker) that has become common in the United States,
neighbors. as well as xiaolongbao (soupy pork-filled steamed
buns), which have devout followers throughout
Beijing (formerly known as Peking) has been the Shanghai, where they are eaten with a ginger-infused
capital of China since the 1300s, and as such has had vinegar. Many of the dishes from this region tend to be
a long culinary history as the home of imperial cui- sweeter than in other parts of China, such as those
sine, or what is often referred to as court cuisine. Gen- that are red cooked and other dishes that include rock
erally, this cuisine was dramatically different from sugar. A number of sweet pastries are common to this
what the local people would enjoy; it often was very region as well, including many that are steamed and a
elaborate and included many foods found in other few that are fried.
parts of China that were brought in especially for
those in the ruling dynasty. As a result, the cuisine of Southern Region: Guangdong/Guangxi
this region is a mix of peasant foods—upon which the Provinces (Major Cities: Canton and
majority of the population relies—and the court cui- Hong Kong)
sine and regional cuisine found in the capital.
The southern region of China is semitropical and very
Eastern Central Region: Kiangsu/Anhui/ fertile, resulting in a distinctly different cuisine from
Chekiang/Fukien Provinces (Major Cities: that of the more northern areas. The cuisine of the
Shanghai and Foochow) south is praised all over China, as this is the home of
many of the country’s great culinary traditions and
The eastern region’s major geological feature is water. dishes.
Whether it takes the form of marshes, rivers, ponds, or
the Yellow Sea (Huang Hai), water is both a lifeline and Southern China lies on the South China Sea
a curse in this region. This region is mostly flat and and, at its most southerly point, the Gulf of Tonkin,
drains the highlands of western China through various both areas with abundant sea life that is a big part of
rivers, including the mighty Yangtze River. Most of the the local cuisine. Because this area has a tropical cli-
agricultural products of this region depend on a good mate, many ingredients can be grown here, and the
supply of water, and floods historically have brought variety and quality of produce are unmatched any-
misery to this region—often in the form of failed crops. where else in China.
This region includes the major city port of Shanghai.
The cooking style of this region is often less intru-
The reliance on foods yielded from water has sive than in other regions, and stir frying and steaming
resulted in a nickname for this area—“the land of fish are the most common methods used. In the south, the
and rice”—and these two foods often form the back- cooks and chefs tend to cook the foods less, so that veg-
bone of the local cuisine. Another central component etables are crunchy and meats and fish retain their
of the local cuisine is made in the region: shao-xing inherent tenderness and moisture. Perhaps the most
(rice wine) is used extensively in marinades, sauces, common element of the south’s cuisine that is gaining
and even to finish some dishes. popularity in the United States is dim sum. With the
dizzying array of bao (steamed wheat buns), gok (dump-
In contrast to the cuisine of the northern region, lings), cheung fun (steamed rice rolls), and go (fried
this region’s cuisine features rice instead of wheat or cakes) that is eaten as part of the dim sum tradition, it
millet, and rice is in fact central to nearly every meal. is no wonder that its popularity is spreading.
Often rice is combined with some of the local seafood
CHAPTER 17 CHINESE CUISINE 433
This is the region that had the most interaction vegetarian dishes, use of tofu, and many cooking tech-
with the Europeans when the first direct contact niques. In China, Sichuan cuisine is appreciated for its
occurred between Europe and China, and as such complexity of flavors, with many components typi-
many of the products of the New World were intro- cally included in a single dish: sweet and sour; spicy
duced (mostly by the Portuguese) to Chinese cuisine and sour; sweet, spicy, and sour. All of these combina-
here. The inclusion of chiles, tomatoes, corn, peanuts, tions and more can be found in Sichuan’s cuisine.
potatoes, and sweet potatoes in the Chinese diet all
began in this region. Perhaps the Portuguese knew Combined cooking methods are used often here.
that they had landed among people who were willing It is very common to see vegetables first deep-fried and
to try new foods when they arrived in Macao, as this is then stir-fried with a sauce, or to first deep-fry pieces
the land of variety. There is a saying in this land—if it of meat before braising it. These methods provide
walks with its spine facing the heavens, it’s edible— richness to the final recipe as well as different textures
and the people of this region eat just about everything and intense flavors that identify the cuisine.
but other humans, and it turns out they know how to
cook everything as well. The region’s reputation for spicy food is well
earned. In years past, the spiciness came from Sichuan
Some of the ingredients that are particularly peppers, ginger, and betel nuts; then, black and white
common in this region are tiger prawns, pork, and cit- peppercorns were introduced from India (other Indian
rus; seasonings include oyster sauce, scallions, ginger, influences include Buddhism and thus vegetarian-
garlic, soy sauce, and fermented soybeans. The cli- ism). Finally, in the nineteenth century, chiles were
mate is conducive to growing many fruits and vegeta- adopted after being introduced by the Portuguese
bles, such as coconut, lychees, papaya, mangoes, and along the southeastern coast in the sixteenth century.
oranges, all of which are found in the local cuisine. Chiles quickly became a significant ingredient in this
land of humidity, because they provided some of the
Western Inland Region: Hunan/Kweichow/ same cooling effect as the previous sources of heat,
Sichuan/Yunnan Provinces (Major Cities: and they grew abundantly in the local climate. Inter-
Chengtu and Chungking) estingly, chiles are known as hai jiao in Sichuan, which
means “sea peppers”—their point of origin from the
The cuisine of the western region is dominated by Chinese perspective.
that of the valley of Sichuan, the land of spice.
Sichuan is located in western China in what can only The western region comprises many ethnicities,
be described as a hidden valley among towering because this region has been home to a number of
mountain ranges. The Sichuan area is surrounded cultures over the centuries, many of which are still
by hills and mountains, with the Plateau of Tibet represented in significant numbers here, including
bordering the western portion, the Qin Ling Moun- descendants of Thai, Vietnamese, Mongolian, Hakka
tains to the north, and the uplands of the Yun Gui (originally from northern China), and Burmese peo-
Gaoyuan bordering the south and east. This geogra- ples, to name a few. All of these cultures have contrib-
phy has made Sichuan a humid and fertile valley uted to the development of the local cuisine.
that has provided a long history of crop cultivation
and the crops’ subsequent inclusion in the local cui- Some dishes that hail from this region are gong
sine. Some of the crops that are particularly impor- bao (kung pao chicken), tang cu li ji (sweet and sour
tant to the local cuisine include rice, the well-known pork), gan bian si ji dou (spicy stir-fried green beans),
Sichuan pepper (no relation to the black or white and suan la rou si tang (hot and sour soup).
pepper), ginger, bamboo shoots, soybeans, mush-
rooms from the surrounding mountains, water RECIPES
spinach, pork, mandarins, and now chiles.
The following recipes provide an introduction to
Sichuan is one of the schools of Chinese cuisine Chinese cuisine by revealing commonly used ingre-
that is most common in the United States (the other is dients and some of the unique methods employed in
Canton). The cuisine is well known for its liberal use of the Chinese kitchen. Hopefully this introduction
spices; although that is a significant component of the inspires a closer look at this varied and complex
local cuisine, it certainly isn’t the only one. Sichuan cuisine (many texts explore this in greater depth,
cuisine is also known throughout China for its some of which are listed in the References section of
this book).
434 SECTION 4 CUISINES OF ASIA
*Fan CHINA As the main ingredient of Chinese cuisine, rice has been a symbol of
(PLAIN COOKED RICE) food and eating for centuries. Rice is commonly eaten at each meal and
Ingredients is thought to be a neutral component of any meal, thus helping to pro-
3 cups Long-Grain Rice (soak the vide balance to one’s diet.
rice for the directed time, or
the water amount will not Yield: About 6–7 cups, or 8–10 portions (.75 cup/portion)
be correct)
3 cups Water Cooking Method: Boiling/Steaming
Rinsing and rubbing rice for making fan Procedure
(steamed rice) 1. Rinse the rice by placing it in a pot filled with cold water and
rubbing the grains between your fingers.
Soaking rice for making fan
2. Discard the cold water and repeat this procedure one or two more
times, until the water is almost clear when it is emptied from the pot.
3. Once the grains have been rinsed, place the rice in the pot and
cover it with cool water; allow the rice to rest for 45 minutes (it will
absorb some water during this period, so this must be done for the
water ratio to be correct. Also be sure that the rice is covered by a
couple inches of water, as the rice will swell a bit).
4. Once the rice has soaked for 45 minutes, remove it from the pot and
place it in a strainer to drain out the water it soaked in.
5. Transfer the drained rice to a pot, and add 3 cups of water.
6. Turn the heat to a high flame and bring the mixture to a boil,
uncovered (do not leave it, because it will need to be covered as
soon as it reaches a boil).
7. Once it boils, turn the heat down to a low flame and cover the pot
tightly with a lid (if a tight-fitting lid is not available, use foil and
place a lid on top of the foil to hold it down).
8. Cook the rice over a low flame for 5 minutes (you should not see
water coming out of the pot—if you do, the heat is too high). Turn
the heat off and allow the pot to sit for another 10 minutes (to
allow the rice to finish by steaming).
9. Remove the lid and fluff the rice using a fork or chopsticks; serve
immediately, or cover tightly with plastic wrap if you are not
serving right away.
Cooked fan; note
the pockets on
the surface of
this properly
cooked rice
CHAPTER 17 CHINESE CUISINE 435
*Yangzhou Chau Fan EASTERN CHINA
(STIR-FRIED RICE IN THE STYLE OF YANGZHOU)
Ingredients Fried rice is one of the well-known preparations in Chinese cooking,
4 oz Lard (you can substitute and many variations exist. This recipe is in the style of Yangzhou.
peanut oil, if desired) Depending on the size and thickness of your wok, this recipe may be
6 oz Shrimp, peeled, deveined, best prepared by dividing it in half and making it in two batches to
and cut into 1/4-inch pieces ensure that the ingredients are stir-fried and do not stick to the bottom
5 Large Eggs, beaten of the wok.
1/4 tsp Salt
Soy Sauce Yield: 15 portions (5 ounces/portion)
1 oz
2 oz Rice Wine Cooking Method: Stir Frying
1 oz Oyster Sauce Procedure
1 Tbsp Sesame Oil 1. Place a wok over a wok ring on a burner and turn the heat to a
high flame; add 1/2 of the lard to the wok.
1 tsp Sugar
2. Once the lard just begins to wisp smoke, add the shrimp and stir-fry
1 tsp Salt for about 30 seconds or until all of the shrimp pieces turn pink.
Remove the wok from heat; remove the shrimp and set them aside.
1 oz Fresh Ginger, minced
3. Pour off any excess fat in the wok, set it aside, and return the wok
1/2 oz Garlic Cloves, minced to the heat.
6 oz Cantonese Roasted Pork 4. Combine the beaten eggs and the salt; once the wok is hot, add the
(called Char Sui—you can eggs and quickly stir-fry them until they are just cooked. Once
substitute another roasted again, remove them from the wok and set them aside. Cut the eggs
pork, if this is unavailable; into small strips.
the char sui recipe is
included in this chapter, 5. Combine the soy sauce, rice wine, oyster sauce, sesame oil, salt, and
if needed) sugar, and set aside.
1 recipe of Cooked Rice 6. Return the wok to the wok circle, and add the remaining lard to the
(called Fan; see recipe, this wok; place over a high flame to heat.
chapter), cooled to room
temperature
1 bunch Scallions, sliced thin
on a bias
7. Once the wok begins to release wisps of
smoke again, add the ginger and stir-fry for
5 seconds. Next, add the garlic; stir-fry for
5 seconds before adding the pork.
8. Once the pork has stir-fried for a minute or so,
add the shrimp, the rice, the cut eggs, and the
sauce, all while stir frying to keep the ingredi-
ents from sticking to the bottom.
Yangzhou chau 9. Add the scallions and any lard that was
fan (stir-fried poured off from stir frying the shrimp; serve
rice) immediately.
436 SECTION 4 CUISINES OF ASIA
*Qiang Huang Qua WESTERN CHINA
(SPICY CUCUMBER)
Ingredients This recipe—a great example of the simplicity and efficiency of using a
1.5 lb Cucumbers, peeled, wok—takes just seconds once the ingredients are prepared, and it
deseeded, and cut into packs the punch of those most Sichuan of flavors: chiles and Sichuan
batonnet pieces peppers. This dish is most definitely fiery, so if a tamer taste is desired,
reduce the amount of chiles and Sichuan peppers in the recipe.
1.5 Tbsp Salt
Yield: 6 portions (4 ounces/portion)
1 oz Peanut Oil
Cooking Method: Stir Frying
10 Dried Red Chiles (about
2 inches in length), stems Procedure
and seeds removed, and 1. Combine the cucumber slices and the salt, tossing the two together
cut in half in a mixing bowl to combine well; set the cucumber aside to allow
the salt to draw out moisture for 30 minutes.
2 tsp Sichuan Peppercorns, 2. Once the cucumber has sat for 30 minutes, transfer it to a colander
crushed with the back of a and rinse the cucumber off with cold water; pat dry with a clean
cleaver cloth or paper towels.
1.5 oz Sesame Oil
3. Once the cucumber is dry, add the peanut oil to a wok and set over
a high flame to heat.
4. Once the oil is hot (the oil should just begin to release wisps of
smoke), add the chiles and Sichuan peppers. Remove the wok from
the heat immediately, while simultaneously moving the chiles and
Sichuan peppers around in the wok.
5. Add the cucumber slices to the pan, and toss to coat them well with
the chiles and oil.
6. Transfer the seasoned cucumbers to a container and allow them to
cool completely before adding the sesame oil; serve.
*Bang Bang Ji Si WESTERN CHINA
(CHICKEN WITH BANG BANG SAUCE)
Ingredients This dish is from Leshan, a town in the Sichuan region that is well known
For Making the Sauce for its quality chicken. This dish is said to have received its name from
cooks who used a wooden instrument (called a bang) to smash the
1/4 cup Sesame Seeds, white back of a cleaver over the cooked chicken meat to break the fibers so
2 oz Soy Sauce that the chicken would shred easily (which is how this dish is tradition-
ally served). The sauce can be made ahead of time as a great way to
1.5 oz Sugar utilize leftover cooked chicken.
2 oz Black Chinese Vinegar
(Chinkiang)
1 tsp Sichuan Peppers, ground Yield: 8 portions (6 ounces/portion)
1 oz Sesame Oil Cooking Method: None (the chicken should be precooked)
2 oz Chili Oil
For Assembling the Plates Procedure
2 lbs Cooked Chicken Breast, For Making the Sauce
cooled, smashed with the
side of a cleaver, and pulled 1. Using a medium-size sauté pan or wok, set the pan over a low
into strips flame and dry toast the sesame seeds until they turn brown and
become fragrant.
(continues)
CHAPTER 17 CHINESE CUISINE 437
*Bang Bang Ji Si 2. Using a mortar and pestle, crush the toasted sesame seeds into a
(continued) paste, and then set them aside.
2 bunches Scallions, the white 3. In a mixing bowl, combine the soy sauce, black vinegar, and
parts cut into 2-inch Sichuan peppers, and mix to combine; add the ground sesame
sections, split in quarters paste while stirring constantly.
lengthwise (use the green
part in other recipes) 4. Once the sesame paste has been added, slowly drizzle in the oils,
Dressing (see above) whisking all the while to form an emulsified dressing.
2 Tbsp Sesame Seeds, black or 5. Set the dressing aside to prepare to assemble the plates.
toasted white
For Assembling the Plates
1. Place approximately 4 oz of the shredded chicken meat on each
plate, and top it with a small amount of the sliced scallions.
2. Pour 1.5 oz of the dressing over the scallions and chicken, and
garnish with the black sesame seeds or toasted white sesame seeds.
Bang bang ji si (bang bang
chicken), with rice in the
center of the plate and
qiang huang qua (spicy
cucumber) on both ends
of the plate
*Wor Tip EASTERN CHINA/SHANGHAI
(POT STICKERS)
Ingredients These Chinese dumplings are well known in the United States, yet these
For Blanching the Bok Choy are simply one example from a family of filled-dough dumplings that are
found throughout China. The dough used to make these is now widely
8 oz Bok Choy available frozen, although it is often made with eggs, which the tradi-
1.5 qts water tional dough did not contain. There are a few varieties of eggless wonton
Salt skins, or the dough can be made fresh.
2 tsp
Yield: Forty 1-oz pot stickers ϩ sauce
Cooking Method (Bok Choy): Blanching by Boiling
Cooking Method (Pot Stickers): Quick Braising
(continues)
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