Gemelli 88

Gemelli

Newsletter of Friends of Ravenna

Issue 88 January 2023

FROM THE CHAIRMAN terms of accommodation, food and wine! All
this … for us!
Looking forward ...
You’ll read about some
I expect others before of these experiences in
me have also felt very this edition. However,
moved by the gracious I’d like to take this
hospitality experienced opportunity to
during an exchange celebrate another very
visit. When others have important dimension
seemingly pulled out all of our visit. In a rather
the stops in order to grand Chamber, very
make one feel so welcome - rearranged busy much like our own Chamber at the Assembly
schedules, planned in spades so that things Rooms, the Mayor, S. Michele Pascale and the
work according to plan so as to give the best Assessore, Annagiulia Randi came to
possible trip - it’s very humbling. We welcome us to Ravenna. S. Pascale once again
discovered art treasures, learned about acknowledged with gratitude the part Britain
culture past, received superb hospitality in had played in freeing Italy during WW2. He
also, with a twinkle in his eye, acknowledged

FRIENDS OF RAVENNA Gemelli 88 - January 2023

PRESIDENT RAVENNA VISIT

The Right Worshipful the Mayor of Chichester In late September 2022, members of the
'Friends of Ravenna' were given the
Councillor Julian Joy opportunity to visit Ravenna in Italy and be
welcomed by the 'Amici di Chichester'. Here
VICE-PRESIDENT are reports by some of those who went on the
major parts of the programme.
The Very Reverend Nicholas Frayling
The National Museum of Ravenna
CHAIRMAN Jacky Storey 07743 484059
On our first morning and in bright sunshine, our
VICE-CHAIRMAN Liz Turner 371309 hosts introduced us to the fascinating history of
their World Heritage city with a bilingual
HON TREASURER Richard Roberts 538004 guided visit to the National Museum. It is
located in the ancient Benedictine Abbey, part of
HON SECRETARY Lynda Murray 788207 the complex of San Vitale, one of the city’s most
important architectural sites.
Alastair Alexander 532171
In 1797, with the suppression of religious orders,
Jane Bartholomew 776231 the treasures of the great abbeys became the
property of the City, notably the collection of
Mike Bonser 01903 784911 painted icons of the monks of Camaldoli of
Classe, the ancient Roman port of Ravenna on
Jennifer Bottomley 776810 the Adriatic Sea.

John-Henry Bowden 07504 846083 Add hundreds of artifacts recovered during
numerous excavations in the whole region and
Mike Evans 698113 you have many large conventual rooms
exhibiting precious bronzes, exquisite mosaics
Jennifer McNeill 07901 528397 and ceramics, intricate ivories, impressive
armours and weapons, as well as a few startling
Sarah Quail 776757 modern sculptures like the three life-like wolves
Anne Scicluna 789065 created in dark aluminium.
Frances Walker 07799 010929
Some of my lasting memories will be the
that whatever had played out politically in graceful Renaissance cloisters housing rare
recent years, we would always ‘belong’ in Classical sculptures, lace-like stone capitals,
Europe. Roman and early Christian funerary
monuments: the beautiful stone domed staircase
Such a warm affirmation! We all expressed and the wonderful views over tiled roofs of the
the wish to widen our links, still enjoying famous basilica.
family exchange visits but at the same time
exploring possibilities of wider engagement Our visit ended in the monastery refectory with
e.g. a cultural exchange involving a youth its 14C relocated church frescoes in Giotto’s
orchestra. tradition and a stunning exhibition of modern
mosaics creating landscapes and portraits in
Having missed out on celebrating our 25th subtly coloured tesserae.
anniversary, we’ve invited S. Pascale to
consider, schedule permitting, a visit to A rich museum which deserved so much more
Chichester in 2023 to celebrate belatedly the of our time – perhaps on another visit to
26th year of our twinning! Will he come?! Ravenna?

As I write, it’s Advent, a season of waiting! Genevieve Edynbry
We wait, celebrating and thankful for what
we’ve been given - fascinating monthly talks
and friendship linked to our shared
appreciation of all things Italian - whilst
waiting to see with hope and anticipation all
that may unfold for us in 2023!

Thank you for being part of the journey!

Jacky Storey

Mausoleo Di Galla Placidia and Gemelli 88 - January 2023
Basilica Di San Vitale
ground and the marks on the columns indicated
One of the most exciting activities of our stay the ground levels of the past.
in Ravenna was visiting a number of UNESCO
Early Christian monuments which took place A masterpiece of Byzantine architecture, with
on a Friday morning. It was a rather cloudy elements of Eastern and Western art merging
day but we were all looking forward to our with each other. I spent most of the time there
guided tour. The photograph of the group on admiring the two imperial mosaic panels with
the front page, taken at the entrance of the Theodora and Justinian and their Courts, which
Basilica di San Vitale courtyard, reflects our for some reason, seemed very familiar to me. I
excitement. then realised that the images of these panels
were included in the history books of my
The first monument, to the right hand of the childhood.
entrance, was the 'Mausoleo di Galla Placidia'
one of the most fascinating buildings of late Eleni Zikou
antiquity. The austerity of the exterior was in
complete contrast to the interior, which was Dante Readings
decorated with mosaics completed between
425 and 450 AD. The colour palettes, the It’s Friday, approaching 6pm in Ravenna, and a
various shapes, the figures, the scenes small group of people have gathered in front of
inspired by the Bible, and the extent of the Dante’s tomb, despite the inclement weather,
decoration were astonishing. I found the blue although the rain is mercifully holding off for the
meadow of flowers, at the entrance vault, moment. An even smaller group is standing
extraodinary. inside the tomb, nervously waiting to read Canto
XI from Purgatorio, the second volume of
An interesting fact was that the three marble Dante’s Divine Comedy.
sarcophagi (for Galla Placidia and her
children) inside the mausoleum were empty. It At last, the bells of the Basilica San Francesco
appears that the death of Galla Placidia ring out, followed by 13 chimes of the Dante bell
happened in Rome and her remains never (Dante died in Ravenna on the 13th of
rested in Ravenna. September, 1321), and our reading begins. The
first few lines are read in Italian by one of their
Still impressed by the architecture and the city councillors, then we take over in English:
mosaic art of the mausoleum, we then headed Jacky first, then Tony, followed by Andrea,
to the Basilica of San Vitale, just across Alastair and Liz, and finally Franca, from the
courtyard, an octagonal structure topped by an Amici di Chichester, reads the last few lines in
ascending cupola, built between 525 and 547 Italian. At the end, the bell chimes 13 times
AD. The signs of sinking were evident as the again, maintaining the solemn atmosphere,
whole building was lower than the external although by now we can hear a little ripple of
applause (thank you, audience!)

The readings are a recent tradition; they started
on the 14th of September, 2020 and take place

Gemelli 88 - January 2023

every day of the year, except Christmas Day, at local speciality of pasta from Emilia-Romagna.
6pm. Anyone can request to take part. It is Afterwards we were shown a presentation from
Ravenna’s way of honouring Italy’s greatest a young member of the local Photographic Club
writer, whose 700th anniversary was celebrated of her recent trip to Vietnam. No evening in
in 2021. Italy is complete without music and dancing, so
we were entertained to music from the 60’s and
When I was asked, before the trip, to take part 70’s and some of us joined in the dancing with
in the reading, little did I know that it was going our hosts. Another unusual and thoroughly
to be recorded! The video can be seen via enjoyable evening.
the following website: www.vivadante.it;
select Lettura perpetua and there are links Alastair Alexander
to Facebook and YouTube.
Comacchio and Lagoon Boat Trip
Andrea Hill
Saturday saw us on a day trip to the town of
Ravenna Evenings Comachio about 40kms north of Ravenna. This
was the site of Etruscan and Roman settlements
Our hosts entertained us on the Thursday and two thousand years ago and is often referred to
Friday evenings to some most unusual and as ‘Little Venice’ due to the system of small
charming events. canals on which it is built. By coincidence it was
also the day of the local Festival of Anguille
On the Thursday evening we were taken to Ivan (Eels) which meant the town was bustling with
and Patrizia Bianchetti‘s fishing hut on one of stalls selling this delicacy as well as bands and
the canals in the Classe area just outside street entertainment.
Ravenna. Each hut has an enormous rectangular
fishing net which is lowered into the water and We were impressed by the three-way bridge,
then raised, hopefully (but not usually) holding the Trepponti, and by the delightful waterfront
a worthwhile catch, but not for us. However, streets. After much needed coffee we had a tour
Ivan had been fishing previously and provided of the Delta Antico Museum housing
us with deep fried shrimps and small fish prior magnificent treasures both Roman and Etruscan
to our eating at tables where our hosts provided and including an incredible display of a Roman
copious quantities of typically local home- 5th Century boat which had been raised from
cooked dishes, with added quantities of local the river much like the Mary Rose. It contained
wine. After the meal we were all invited, firstly, many items from cooking pots to
to sing our National Anthems and then join in shoes! Nearby is the lagoon filling the Valli di
the singing accompanied by Ivan‘s accordion to Comachio and we had an excellent fish lunch,
well-known favourites such as O Sole Mio. It some of the braver of us trying the local
was the most charming gathering and everyone delicacy. I can report eel is not for the faint-
joined in the singing. hearted!

After the Friday evening readings of Dante’s It was also Liz Turner’s birthday and the Amici
Divine Comedy we were taken to a Social had arranged a delicious cake for us to serenade
Centre where we were given a simple but Liz!
delicious meal of cappeletti (little bonnets), a
After lunch we had a

boat trip on the

lagoon, home to

thousands of

flamingos. We tried

to spot the elusive

and somewhat

distanced birds and

visited a small fishing

museum to learn how

to catch eels if ever we

feel the need. It was very quiet and rather Gemelli 88 - January 2023
beautiful.
Recent Events
Nigel Murray
Traditionally, at our first meeting of the
From AMICI DI new season we start with presentations
from our own members and we were able
CHICHESTER to enjoy two excellent presentations this
year.
An Earthquake in Ravenna
Thursday 22nd September 2022
At 7 o'clock the alarm rings, a habit that
continues even if I could sleep for longer, plus it Travels in Umbria
was a restless night for dinner last night. But I
still stay to laze in the heat, with Petunia that by Jacky Storey
stays on my feet and continues to doze after she
has already had her first breakfast of the day. Our new Chairman, Jacky Storey, gave a short
Suddenly the numbness dissolves, everything talk on her visit, in the summer, to Umbria, ‘’the
begins to shake, Petunia perks up her ears and green heart of Italy’’. Her descriptions of this
runs on my chest alarmed. Fortunately - or vast and breathtaking area, with its beautifully
unfortunately, I don't know - it is not the first preserved hilltop villages, certainly inspired a
time I live this experience: the shaking continues number of the audience seriously to consider
the same for many seconds, “how long will it future holidays in the region!
last this time?”; a few seconds of rest, and then
again for much less time. I look at the clock: In June, Jacky and her sister travelled to Lake
7.07 . Petunia and I calm each other. Trasimeno in what is called ‘’the country of
Where was the epicenter? who would have had sunsets’’ and spent some time on Isola Maggiore,
to run away from home in a hurry? What will be one of three islands on the lake. The shores of
the magnitude this time? the lake had seen violence (Hannibal), prayer (St
After so many years of shaking I have learned Francis) and it had been a place of sanctuary
that today's one, here by us will not have caused (villagers seeking refuge to the island to escape
serious damage to things, and especially to the Nazis).
people, but I still have the anxiety to know, to be
able to reassure myself. Then, in September, Jacky and 3 others began
The network is timely: magnitude 5.7, epicenter walking part of St Francis’ Way – through Assisi,
more than 100 km from here, off the coast of Spello and the Umbrian countryside to the
Fano, in the Marche region – a region heavily villages of Trevi and Poreta before arriving in
affected even a few years ago, but it is likely that Spoleto, their destination. Jacky outlined the life
even there the damage is slight. of St Francis, said to be ‘’one of those men of
The tension eases. whom humanity will always be proud’’, before
describing the beautiful basilicas they saw in
Valeria Fortibuoni Assisi. These included La Basilica di Francesco
with Giotto’s Crucifixion and his 28 frescoes of
the life of San Francesco. In Spoleto the cathedral
there contains a Lippi painting, frescoes by
Pinturicchio and a beautiful floor of mosaics.

Jacky described all they saw and did with great
enthusiasm, illustrating everything with lovely
photos of her travels and ended by saying that
‘’the landscape, the spirituality, the history, the
art, the food and wine – these would draw me
back to Umbria anytime! And soon I hope!’’

Betty Smith

Guglielmo Marconi Gemelli 88 - January 2023

By Peter Turner Atlantic coast where in 1903 President Theodore
Roosevelt sent the first telegraph message to
Peter Turner then gave us a fascinating talk on King Edward VII in Cornwall. The cliffs above
the life of Guglielmo Marconi, the Nobel prize the sea are still unspoiled, remote and beautiful.
winning founder of wireless telegraphy. Marconi
came from a wealthy family near Bologna but his Jennifer and Howard Bottomley
Irish born mother Anne Jameson (of the whiskey
family) instilled in him an acute business brain. Wednesday 26th October 2022
Educated for a while at Bedford School in
England, he returned to Bologna where he The White War
became interested in electricity and became by Dr Mark Thompson
aware of the work of Heinrich Hertz, the leading
scientist on electro-magnetic waves. He At our meeting on 24th October Dr Mark
conducted experiments at home on sending a Thompson gave us a fascinating insight into the
signal over a few miles but it was when he struggle between the Italians and the Austrians
returned to England and came under the during the First World War. Italy had been
influence of Sir William Preece at the Post Office loosely tied into a treaty with Germany and
that his experiments on sending signals expanded Austria/Hungary but, encouraged by a secret
over greater and greater distance across Southern promise of extra territory to the north, Italy
England including the Isle of Wight. The key to joined Britain, France and Russia and declared
his commercial success was the recognition of the war on Austria/Hungary in May 1915.
value of being able to transmit ship-to-shore and The Italian Chief of Staff and ferocious
eventually not just morse but voice too. Peter disciplinarian, Luigi Cadorna, led an offensive
described how this was used to enable the to the north of Trieste. This caused the
capture of Dr. Crippen travelling on board ship to Austrians to pull back onto higher ground up
America after murdering his wife, though the the Isonzo valley, leaving the Italians vulnerable
signals from the Marconi signal room on board in the valley below and incurring heavy
the Titanic were, of course, sadly ignored with casualties.
only one of his two operators surviving. After much fighting, in November 1917, the
Germans and Austrians poured down the
He created the Vatican Radio station which mountains and routed the Italians at Caporetto.
broadcast throughout the world and in his day he Large numbers of Italians were killed,
was considered something of a hero in Italy, wounded, captured or they fled. However, on
being awarded a state funeral on his death in the first anniversary of that defeat, the Italians
1937. Even today, Bologna Airport is named after beat a depleted and demoralised Austrian army
him though his personal reputation has become at Vittorio Veneto and the humiliation of
somewhat tarnished after his death with his Caporetto was reversed.
support of Mussolini and fascism. Italy gained land the size of Wales in Trentino/
Alto Adige (South Tirol), where fighting in the
Peter had clearly spent many hours in putting snows of the Dolomites had taken place. But
together his detailed and well-illustrated talk. His that was deemed insufficient after so much
hard work was greatly appreciated by all present. bloodshed. Military success turned to

Alastair Alexander

Marconi in the USA

Following the inspiring talk on Marconi by Peter

Turner, we took the opportunity of a family visit
to Cape Cod to see the actual spot on the wild

resentment and a wish to rectify the injustice, Gemelli 88 - January 2023
which led to the rise of Fascism.
It is hardly surprising that today most galleries
Mark’s very informative talk had taken us on a and art collections in Britain have on display
journey through a little-known part of the First works painted by Italian artists of the 18th
World War. His vast knowledge, informal century
style and eye for unusual detail had given us a
most enjoyable evening. His book “The White Fiona Lewis
War” was the product of his extensive
research. Tuesday 13th December

Howard Bottomley Christmas Concert

Tuesday 15th November 2022 By Keziah Thomas

The Italian Artist in 18th Century Two years ago we were
England fortunate to have Keziah
present a Christmas concert
by Hilly Sloan on Zoom so it was
particularly delightful to
Hilly Sloan gave us a fascinating insight into welcome her back in person
the growth of interest in Italian painting in 18th when her talent and the
century England, illustrating her talk with warmth of her personality
works painted by Italian artists, many of whom really shone through.
are not well known today.
She opened with three Italianate items, a 14th C.
It all started in the late 17th century when dance to which she incorporated Ding Dong
members of the English nobility and landed Merrily on High, then Vivaldi’s Winter from The
gentry began to travel abroad to discover the Four Seasons plus a harp variation from Bellini’s
cultural wonders of Europe. The 14th Earl of Norma. The first half was drawn to a close with
Arundel with his guide Inigo Jones was one of Elgar’s Nimrod.
the first to embark upon this journey. Italy
with its art and architecture was a key After the interval, Keziah gave us a most
destination and was much loved by the 14th interesting background talk about the
Earl. These early travellers would bring home construction of harps and the seven pedals that
works painted by one of the many Italian harpists have to negotiate, plus details of a
artists of the period and display them in their famous blind Welsh harpist from the 17th
country homes as a means of showing off their Century who played the challenging instrument
wealth. It was equally important to have their with three rows of strings.
portraits painted to enhance their prestige at
home. An extract from Swan Lake was followed by a
timely Ukrainian carol and completed with
Interest in acquiring Italian works of art spread Vaughan Williams’s Fantasia on Greensleeves.
and by the early 18th century patrons were
bringing the artists themselves to England The catering team had beautifully decorated the
where they could produce paintings of London tables at which we sat and during the interval we
and portraits of the patron. Other artists such enjoyed the delicious savoury and sweet biscuits
as Canaletto flocked here to satisfy the demand accompanied by prosecco, plus of course
which continued to grow and often stayed for panettone. Thanks to Astrid Davies, we were also
many years forming networks which able to enjoy both a delicious Christmas cake plus
influenced the development of a flourishing art a birthday cake to celebrate our 26 years of
market. The backlash from disgruntled British twinning.
artists did nothing to reduce this obsession
which had spread downwards from the Alastair Alexander
aristocracy to the aspiring middle classes.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS Gemelli 88 - January 2023

Thursday 19th January 2023 Italian Language
The Venice Tidal Barrier and Climate CLASSES and GROUPS
Change
Practise speaking Italian and enjoy the
An Illustrated Talk on Zoom company of others of similar ability .
By Dr Warren Cairns The lessons are fee-paying but there is
no charge for the conversation groups.
Wednesday 15th February 2023 LANGUAGE CLASSES
Stanley Spencer and the Influence of We are very fortunate to have the help of
Giotto and the Italian Primitives Cristina Taylor, a native speaker and teacher
of Italian. Cristina is offering classes at three
An Illustrated Talk levels, each with conversation, grammar,
By Simon Martin reading and some home study. This year
classes will take place at Cristina’s home in
Thursday 16th March 2023 Chichester.
Naples as a centre of learning Advanced—Tuesdays 10.00 -11.30
Intermediate/Advanced— Tuesdays 2.30—
An Illustrated Talk 4.00
By Dr Lorenza Gianfrancesco Intermediate—Wednesdays 10.00-11.30
Intermediate/ Advanced — Wednesdays
Wednesday 26th April 2023 2.30-4.00
Andrea Palladio and Palladianism: Intermediate—Thursdays 10.00—10.30
Four Centuries of a Style Intermediate/Advanced—Thursdays 12.00-
1.00 pm
An Illustrated Talk Cristina has spaces in some of these classes
By Charles Hind and anyone wishing to join one of them
should contact Cristina directly on 01243
May 2023 (date to be advised) 788804 or [email protected]
A Spring Social Event
We are fortunate to have the services of Andrea
Hill, an experienced teacher of languages, who
runs Beginners and Year 2 classes. This year,
the classes are as follows:
Beginners— Tuesdays 4.00– 5.00
Year 2 class—Thursdays, 9.30 to 10.30.
Anyone interested in joining either of these
classes should contact her directly on 07801
988257, or by email at
[email protected] .
CONVERSATION GROUPS
In addition to the classes, there are two groups
who meet informally once a month for Italian
conversation.
The Advanced Group meets on the second
Thursday of the month from 5.30— 7.00
Intermediate Group on the third Thursday of the
month from 5.30— 6.45
Anyone interested in joining one of these
groups should contact Andrea on the above
number or email.