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Photography Gigi Gibowicz Styling Gigi Gibowicz Model Isabel Gibowicz Pg.59
the Art getting dressed of Isabel Gibowicz wearing Leopard print pantyhose tights, Red sandal pumps, Black leotard bodysuit. Isabel Gibowicz wearing Leopard print pantyhose tights, Red sandal pumps, Black leotard bodysuit, Black midi-length skirt, Purple long gloves. Isabel Gibowicz wearing Leopard print pantyhose tights, Red sandal pumps, Black leotard bodysuit, Black midi-length skirt, Purple long gloves, Gingham skirt, White button-down. 60
Isabel Gibowicz wearing Leopard print pantyhose tights, Red sandal pumps, Black leotard bodysuit, Black midi-length skirt, Purple long gloves, Gingham skirt, White button-down, Denim belt, Beaded necklace, Headband. Isabel Gibowicz wearing Leopard print pantyhose tights, Red sandal pumps, Black leotard bodysuit, Black midi-length skirt, Purple long gloves, Gingham skirt, White button-down, Denim belt, Beaded necklace, Headband, Leopard print cap, Brown boa scarf, Graffiti belt. Isabel Gibowicz wearing Leopard print pantyhose tights, Red sandal pumps, Black leotard bodysuit, Black midi-length skirt, Purple long gloves, Gingham skirt, White button-down, Denim belt, Beaded necklace, Headband, Leopard print cap, Brown boa scarf, Graffiti belt, Textured overcoat, Tommy Hilfiger bag. 61
The first lipstick shade was brownish-red and became wildly popular in the fashion industry as designers began incorporating the lip color into their collections. The lipstick itself was a success but the cause, being one that many felt passionate about, seemed to really drive the movement. As more designers popularized Viva Glam, M.A.C launched Viva Glam II, the second campaign in a beige-pink color with K.D. Lang, a lesbian woman, at the front of it. Queer culture was truly at the center of this campaign with Lang as the spokesperson. 1984 The fashion world has always held strong ties with the queer community. However, in the 1980s, the devastation that the AIDS crisis had on Seventh Avenue made it clear just how intertwined they were. With countless artists and designers lost in the epidemic, brands began to advocate for AIDS research and awareness. Makeup Art Cosmetics, better known as “M.A.C” was founded in 1984 by Frank Angelo and Frank Toskan, and in 1994 the pair created the M.A.C Viva Glam campaign, a lipstick in which 100% of the proceeds would be donated to the AIDS cause. 1994 1996 VIVA GLAMCAMPAIGN HISTORY 64
2004 Viva Glam continued to grow at a cultural front through the late 90s into the early 2000s as celebrities and other popular fashion figures partnered with the campaign. Chloë Sevigny was the face of the 2004 Viva Glam IV, marking the 10th anniversary of the organized effort. She has since been joined by Dita Von Teese, Fergie, Rhianna, Sia, Lady Gaga, Miley Cyrus, Ariana Grande, and many other top-tier artists and celebrities in the effort to fight against AIDS with M.A.C lipstick. 2021 In 2021, M.A.C launched the 27th Viva Glam campaign, a collaboration with the deceased queer street artist Keith Haring. Haring’s pop art promoted AIDS awareness and safe sex, so a partnering of his work with the M.A.C Viva Glam campaign makes perfect sense. Keith Haring was a New Yorker and much of his work was inspired by New York City and its culture. The Viva Glam collaboration includes three different lip colors named after Haring and New York locations; Red Haring, St. Marks Yellow, & Canal Blue. These primary colors were often used by Haring in his work and the lipstick colors speak to the fun playful nature of his art. M.A.C’s activism and their solidarity with the queer community were consistently present since the beginning of the Viva Glam campaign in 1994. The incorporation of queer artists’ work as a way to honor them and continue their work is a powerful performance of solidarity and creates a new level of inclusivity that is often absent in the fashion industry. The multiple-decade campaign is truly a refreshing take on fashion, art, and design within the LGBTQ+ community. c” In the nearly 28 years of M.A.C Viva Glam, Angelo and Toskan’s advocacy for change and awareness has amounted to more than $500,000,000 in sales, all going directly to charities. The campaign has since broadened its recipients to include funds for the LGBTQ+ community as a whole and women and girls as well as the original cause, AIDS research, and awareness. HISTORY “ 65
VIVA 27 “That’s SO New York.” GLAM Photography Gigi Gibowicz Models Esha Dudhewewala Ariel Moss Kelly Williams Pg.67
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Non-Binary fashion featuring Nicole Bartnikowski Pg. 85
ender identity is inherently tied to how we as humans present ourselves. We dress our bodies in a way that reflects how we identify. Female-born individuals have been expected to present themselves as feminine and male-born individuals have been expected to appear masculine. As more queer people are open about their identities due to cultural and political changes, gendered fashion has become less significant. Gender-neutral fashion is not a new concept contrary to popular opinion. Gender non-conforming individuals have been dressing against societal norms since as early as 400 B.C.E. when Hijras, people in India, identified as a “third gender”; neither female nor male (Abram). Now, there is much more variety in terms of gender identity, and the way that non-binary people dress themselves is much more complex. Nicole Bartnikowski, a first-year student in the dual-degree program at The New School in New York City, identifies as non-binary and reflects this lack of conformity through fashion. Nicole describes their gender as fluid and uses the term ‘non-binary’ when identifying themself. Nicole combines both masculine and feminine clothing pieces that convey a style that they described as “Farmer’s market lesbian, earth-toned cowboy, vintage Disney channel, early 2000s y2k babysitter M.I.L.F.” Nicole wants the expansive and eclectic style they described to come off as gender-neutral. “I want to give the impression of how a gay G man looks when he dresses feminine”, Nicole says. “I want to give the impression of how a gay man looks when he dresses feminine”. In the past, Nicole has struggled with how non-binary people are “supposed” to dress. “I’ve always thought that if you were born a girl, you dress masculine and if you were born a boy, you dress feminine”, they explained, outlining how they formerly perceived non-binary fashion. Recently, Nicole has met individuals that were born female and still choose to dress in a feminine way while identifying as non-binary. There is no specific way that gender non-conforming people, or anyone for that matter, are supposed to dress. “It’s a new concept for me,” they admit. It’s difficult to present oneself in a way that is completely separate from patriarchal gendered norms, but in reality, there are no boundaries when it comes to gender and fashion. Gender is a spectrum and it can be reflected beautifully through fashion. 86
man looks when he dresses feminine”, Nicole says. “I want to give the impression of how a gay man looks when he dresses feminine”. In the past, Nicole has struggled with how non-binary people are “supposed” to dress. “I’ve always thought that if you were born a girl, you dress masculine and if you were born a boy, you dress feminine”, they explained, outlining how they formerly perceived non-binary fashion. Recently, Nicole has met individuals that were born female and still choose to dress in a feminine way while identifying as non-binary. There is no specific way that gender non-conforming people, or anyone for that matter, are supposed to dress. “It’s a new concept for me,” they admit. It’s difficult to present oneself in a way that is completely separate from patriarchal gendered norms, but in reality, there are no boundaries when it comes to gender and fashion. Gender is a spectrum and it can be reflected beautifully through fashion. 87
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RADICAL The Gay Liberation Movement Celebrating Queerness and its Existence in Nature I n 1979, John Burnside, Harry Hay, Mitch Walker, and Don Kilhefner held a spiritual conference in the southwestern United States. These founders of the Radical Faeries were previously part of the gay liberation movement. Acceptance of the queer community was the goal of the liberation movement, but many individuals soon realized that gay culture was being incorporated into mainstream society, forcing their differences to be naturalized and denied. In response, the Radical Faeries were created, marking a new stage in gay liberation. Historically, both the queer and pagan communities have been cast out from mainstream society, especially by the hegemonic values of Christianity. In a sense, the Radical Faeries combined these two communities, incorporating pagan inspired rituals and nature-based religion into sexuality. Queer people were allowed to feel sexually empowered by following this form of spirituality. The creation of the Faeries was a direct FAE R Photography Gigi Gibowicz Pages 95-97 92
response to the hegemony. By calling these conferences, Burnside, Hay, Walker and Kilhefner created a beautiful and unique subculture that rejected gendered socity. Susan Stryker, gender and sexuality theorist, describes gender as, “porous, permeable, and open-ended”. The Radical Faeries truly embodied her vision for an idealized future. Gender is, “porous, permeable, and open-ended”. - Susan Stryker The term “faerie” was once a negative stigmatized label. However, the Radical Faerie movement allowed queer people to reclaim this term. self-realization in fact. They preached the godliness of being queer, essentially worshipping gay love and I The Faeries were all about reclamation and ES sexuality. By doing so, they created fabulous and strange fashion that reflected their various gender expressions and sexualities. Costumes were central to the Faeries’ celebrations. In 2011, the Radical Faeries honord Saint Brigid and the spring season with a New Orleans ball in which members dressed according to the theme, “Legends of the Woods”. The subculture’s strong ties with the natural world was truly reflected in their fashion choices. In addition to whimsical, eclectic, drag-like clothing pieces, the Faeries also incorporated feathers and flowers as a fashionable bricolage. Their costumes were, and still are, truly remarkable. The group stands out from the mainstream with their bright colors and beautifully constructed outfits that resemble the likes of a true faerie while also abolishing gendered fashion and the assimilation of queer culture. Author Gigi Gibowicz 93
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curtain closet by gigi Unique one of a kind pieces made from sustainably sourced and recycled materials. 10% off select styles now
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