A visual guide to sushi - making at home

1 tsp wasabi

2 tsp green nori powder

Hand water (see page 113)

11/2 cups/240 g sushi rice (see page 105) at body temperature,
covered with a damp kitchen towel

2 tsp peeled and very finely julienned fresh ginger

Place a bamboo sushi mat, shiny-side up, on your work surface, with
the bamboo sticks running horizontally. Cut a piece of plastic wrap
large enough to cover the mat loosely. Cover the mat with the plastic
wrap.

Carefully peel off the silver skin from each fillet. To ensure it comes up
easily, start from the thicker end and pull across the fillet. Score the
skinned side of each fillet on the diagonal in a 1/4-in/6-mm diamond
pattern. Place the fillets, flesh-side up and horizontally, on the
prepared mat, positioning them end to end and about one-third above
the edge of the mat closest to you. Smear the wasabi on the fillets and
then sprinkle the fillets with the nori powder.

Moisten the palm of one hand lightly with the hand water, then rub
your hands together to moisten them. Pick up the rice and shape it into
a rod the length of the fish, moistening your hands as needed to
prevent the rice from sticking to them. Place the rod of rice
horizontally on top of the fillet. Lift up the bottom and top edge of the
plastic wrap and bring them together to meet, creating a sling for the
fillet and rice and fusing the fillet and rice together. Lift the edge of the
sushi mat closest to you up and over to cover the fish and rice, then
start to roll away from you, pressing the mat tightly and pushing inward
at the same time to keep the roll uniform. Position the finished roll so
the rice is on the bottom and the fish is on the top. Using the sushi
mat, press the rod of rice and fish into a brick shape, then tighten the
mat. Let rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Set the bouzushi on a cutting board and unwrap from the plastic wrap.
Place the piece of plastic wrap over the top and sides of the bouzushi,
leaving the bottom uncovered and resting on the cutting board. Gently

leaving the bottom uncovered and resting on the cutting board. Gently
press the top and two sides with the sushi mat, then remove the mat
and cut the roll through the plastic wrap crosswise into slices 1 in/2.5
cm thick. The plastic wrap will help keep the fish and rice together as
you cut. Remove the plastic wrap and, with a kitchen torch, sear the
skin until it is light brown. Garnish each piece of sushi with julienned
ginger before serving.

Stuffed Sushi in a Soybean Pouch (Inari-zushi)

Hiro’s mother used to make inari-zushi (sushi rice in a soybean pouch)
for him and his brother for special occasions, and every time he eats
one, it brings back sweet memories. The sushi shares its name with
Inari, the Shinto god of rice, fertility, agriculture, and more, and with
the many shrines in Japan dedicated to the versatile divinity. We
recommend serving pickled vegetables, such as the turnip on page 158
or sunomono, alongside this sushi to complement its mild sweetness.

To make these stuffed pouches, you will need to purchase slices of
fried tofu, or aburagé, which are available frozen, in cans, and in the
fresh-food section of Japanese and other Asian markets and in well-
stocked supermarkets. If you can find only square aburagé, you can cut
them on the diagonal to make triangular pouches. Preseasoned
pouches are available, and if you are pressed for time, they work
perfectly. The seasoning, however, is a bit different from homemade
and is not as satisfying. Because the pouches are well seasoned, the
sushi does not require soy sauce or wasabi for serving.

MAKES 4 INARI

2 cups/480 ml water

2 slices fried tofu, about 4 by 3 in/10 by 7.5 cm

4 tsp soy sauce

2 tbsp sugar

1/2 cup/120 ml dashi (see page 114)

3/4 cup/120 g sushi rice (see page 105) at body temperature, covered
with a damp kitchen towel

In a medium-size saucepan, bring the water to a boil. Have ready a
medium-size bowl of cold water. Meanwhile, cut the tofu slices
crosswise to create four 2-by-3-in/5-by-7.5-cm pouches. Gently open
the pouches.

the pouches.

Slip the pouches into the boiling water and blanch for 3 seconds, then
drain, immerse in the bowl of cold water, and squeeze gently to
remove the excess oil.

In a small saucepan, stir together the soy sauce, sugar, and dashi, then
add the pouches. Place a lid, small plate, or disk of parchment paper
that fits just inside the pan on the surface of the liquid. This is to keep
the pouches submerged in the cooking liquid. Cook for 5 minutes,
rotating the pouches in the cooking liquid a couple of times as they
cook. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature in the
cooking liquid.

Just before you are ready to stuff the pouches, squeeze out the excess
—but not all—liquid from the pouches. The remaining liquid is part of
the seasoning of the sushi.

Following the directions for How to Make Sushi Rice Balls (page 108),
make 4 rice balls. Carefully place a rice ball in each pouch. (Work
slowly and gently, as the pouches tear easily). Close the open end by
simply folding the ends and sides over the rice. Place the pouch,
closed-side down, on a serving plate. This sushi will keep on the
counter for up to 6 hours before serving. Once refrigerated, it is
difficult to bring the pouches to room temperature, which is necessary
to return the rice to a good soft texture.

Variation: You can mix other ingredients into the sushi rice to make
your own style of inari-zushi. Among the possibilities are pickled ginger
(see page 120), peas, chives, small shrimp, or preserved dashi kombu
(see Note, page 114). Or, instead of closing the pouch, you can top the
rice in the pouch with your favorite ingredients, such as shrimp,
crabmeat, peas, or most vegetables, to make a Japanese-style open-
face sandwich. Use your imagination. Any pouches that contain fish or
shellfish should be eaten immediately, however, and not left on the
counter for serving later.

Note: The tofu pouches can be cooked and cooled up to 24 hours
ahead of time, refrigerated in their cooling liquid. Bring to room
temperature before using.

Sushi Rice–stuffed Monterey Squid (Ika) with Sea
Urchin (Uni)

This is a faux roll, or maybe a new version of formed sushi. Whichever
way you think about it, the presentation is beautiful and the dish is very
easy to make. The whiteness of the squid is particularly stunning paired
with the vivid orange of the sea urchin, but if you are just not an uni
person, the dish is still delicious without it. We prefer to buy whole
fresh Monterey squid, but they are seasonal and difficult to find. Most
fish markets carry uncleaned whole squid and cleaned whole squid.
Either can be used here, but make sure the squid is sushi grade before
you purchase it. Because it can be difficult to find the exact-size squid
needed for this recipe, you may need a little more or a little less rice
than called for here.

MAKES 8 BITE-SIZE PIECES

4 whole squid, each body about 4 in/10 cm long without the
tentacles

1/2 cup/80 g sushi rice (see page 105) at body temperature, covered
with a damp kitchen towel

1/4 tsp peeled and grated fresh ginger

8 tongues sea urchin roe, each about 11/2 in/4 cm long (see Note)

Soy sauce for serving

Following the directions for How to Break Down Squid (page 100),
clean the squid, reserving the whole bodies and the tentacles.

Heat a charcoal or gas grill or a stove-top grill pan to medium-high;
you should be able to hold your palm 4 in/10 cm above the heat for no
more than 5 seconds.

Following the directions for How to Make Sushi Rice Balls (page 108),
make 4 rice balls. Shape a rice ball into a log about 1/4 in/6 mm in
diameter and the length of the squid body. Stuff the rice into the squid
body. To close the squid body, weave a toothpick through the open
end of the body parallel to the opening. Repeat with the remaining rice
balls and squid bodies.

If using a grill, place a grill screen on the rack for the tentacles. Place
the stuffed squid and tentacles on the grill rack or pan and grill, turning
as necessary, until golden brown on all sides, about 3 minutes total.
You want the squid to get a little char and smokiness. Do not overcook
the squid or it will be chewy.

Remove the squid and tentacles from the grill or pan and let rest for
about 20 seconds, then cut each body in half crosswise. Remove the
toothpicks and arrange the bodies and tentacles attractively on a
serving plate. Place a dab of the ginger on top of each body portion,
and place the sea urchin on the top of the ginger. Serve with soy
sauce.

Note: If the sea urchin tongues are longer than 11/2 in/4 cm, cut each
one in half crosswise.



Index

A

Abalone, Butter-sautéed Monterey, Gunkan-maki with, 172
Albacore
breaking down, 75–77
Nigiri with Albacore, 129
slicing, for nigiri, 81–91
Amberjack
Nigiri with Kombu-cured Big Island Amberjack, 138
Scattered Sushi, 212
Avocados
California Roll, 9, 194–95
Gunkan-maki with Avocado and Charred Jalapeño, 178
Lobster Roll, 196–97
Nigiri with Soy-marinated Tuna, 132

B

Bamboo sushi mats, 35
Beefsteak plant, 34–35
Beer, 23
Bell Pepper, Dashi-marinated Roasted, Nigiri with, 165
Beverages, 20–24
Black Cod, Broiled Sake-marinated, Gunkan-maki with, 168
Bonito
breaking down, 75–77
dashi, 114
Nigiri with Seared Bonito, 139
seared (tataki), 78–79

shavings, dried, 26
slicing, for nigiri, 80
Bouzushi with Vinegar-cured Mackerel, 214

C

California Roll, 9, 194
Chiles
dried, 31
Gunkan-maki with Avocado and Charred Jalapeño, 178
Nigiri with Dashi-marinated Roasted Bell Pepper, 165
Nigiri with Soy-marinated Tuna, 132
Chirashi-zushi (scattered sushi)
about, 14
making, 212
Chives, 33
Chopsticks, 35
Clams
breaking down geoduck, 101
choosing, 42
Nigiri with Cherrystone Clams, 150
Nigiri with Geoduck Clam, 151
Cod Milt, Grilled, Gunkan-maki with, 175
Condiments, 31–35
Crab
California Roll, 9, 194–95
Scattered Sushi, 212
Cucumbers
California Roll, 9, 194–95
Hosomaki with Cucumber, 191
Hosomaki with Pickled Plum, Cucumber, and Shiso, 193
Japanese, 33
Cutting boards, 35

D

Daikon

Daikon
about, 31
Nigiri with Braised Daikon, 159
spicy grated, 35, 121
sprouts, 31
Dashi
Dashi-flavored Rolled Omelet, 116–17
nonvegetarian, 114
vegetarian, 115
Deep-frying equipment, 35, 37
Donburi, 37

E

Eel
breaking down, 99
choosing, 99
Nigiri with Conger Eel, 152–53
saltwater vs. freshwater, 99, 152
Eggplant, Grilled, Nigiri with, 163
Eggs
Dashi-flavored Rolled Omelet, 116–17
Nigiri with Dashi-flavored Rolled Omelet, 157
quail, 34
Scattered Sushi, 212
Sushi Bowl with Chopped Tuna and Green Onion, 206
Sushi Bowl with Sea Urchin and Salmon Roe, 211
Equipment, 35–38
Etiquette, 18–19

F

Fans, 37
Fish. See also individual fish
choosing, 17, 42
flatfish, breaking down, 43–50

flatfish, slicing, for nigiri, 51–53
flatfish roe, 52
round, breaking down, 54–63
round, slicing, for nigiri, 64–68
small, breaking down, 69–73
small, slicing, for nigiri, 74
sustainability and, 17
Fish scalers, 37
Fish tweezers, 37
Flying fish roe
Gunkan-maki with Horse Mackerel and Japanese Ginger, 169
Lobster Roll, 196–97
Temaki with Spicy Tuna, 202
Futomaki, 14

G

Gari, 34, 120
Garnishes, 31–35
Ginger
about, 33
Japanese, 33, 169
pickled, 34, 120
Gomoku-zushi, 14
Gourd strips, dried, 31, 33
Graters, 37
Green onions, 33
Green tea, 24
Grills, 37
Gunkan-maki (warship rolls)
about, 14
Gunkan-maki with Avocado and Charred Jalapeño, 178
Gunkan-maki with Broiled Sake-marinated Black Cod, 168
Gunkan-maki with Butter-sautéed Monterey Abalone, 172
Gunkan-maki with Grilled Cod Milt, 175

Gunkan-maki with Horse Mackerel and Japanese Ginger, 169
Gunkan-maki with Lightly Poached West Coast Oysters, 170
Gunkan-maki with Salmon Roe, 174
Gunkan-maki with Three Slimes, 177
Gunkan-maki with West Coast Sea Urchin, 173
making, 166–67
rice balls for, 108–10

H

Halibut
California vs. Alaskan, 134
Nigiri with California Halibut, 134
Nigiri with California Halibut Aspic, 136
Hand water, 113
Hangiri, 38
Herring Roe, Hosomaki with, 190
Hosomaki (skinny rolls)
about, 14
Hosomaki with Cucumber, 191
Hosomaki with Herring Roe, 190
Hosomaki with Pickled Plum, Cucumber, and Shiso, 193
Hosomaki with Squid and Natto, 188
Hosomaki with Tuna, 187
making, 182–86

I

Inari-zushi
about, 14
making, 216–17
rice balls for, 108–10

K

Kampyō, 31, 33
Kanzuri, 33

Karashi, 33
Kelp, 26
Kinome, 33, 168
Kitchen torches, 37
Knives, 37–38
Kombu, 26
Kyūri, 33

L

Lemons, 34
Limes, 34
Lobster
choosing, 42
Lobster Roll, 196–97

M

Mackerel
Bouzushi with Vinegar-cured Mackerel, 214
Gunkan-maki with Horse Mackerel and Japanese Ginger, 169
Nigiri with Vinegar-cured Mackerel, 143
types of, 169
Vinegar-cured Mackerel, 104
Maki-zushi (sushi rolls). See also Hosomaki; Temaki
about, 14
California Roll, 9, 194–95
Lobster Roll, 196–97
Mirin, 31
Miso, 26
Momiji oroshi, 35, 121
Mountain yams
about, 34
Gunkan-maki with Three Slimes, 177
Murasaki, 30
Mushrooms

Nigiri with Grilled King Trumpet Mushrooms and Mountain
Caviar, 162
Nigiri with Grilled Shiitake Mushrooms, 160
Mustard, Japanese, 33
Myōga, 33, 169

N

Natto
about, 33
Gunkan-maki with Three Slimes, 177
Hosomaki with Squid and Natto, 188
Nigiri-zushi (hand-formed sushi)
about, 14
bonito, slicing for, 80
flatfish fillet, slicing for, 51–53
making, 124–28
Nigiri with Albacore, 129
Nigiri with Braised Daikon, 159
Nigiri with California Halibut, 134
Nigiri with California Halibut Aspic, 136
Nigiri with Cherrystone Clams, 150
Nigiri with Conger Eel, 152–53
Nigiri with Dashi-flavored Rolled Omelet, 157
Nigiri with Dashi-marinated Roasted Bell Pepper, 165
Nigiri with Geoduck Clam, 151
Nigiri with Grilled Eggplant, 163
Nigiri with Grilled King Trumpet Mushrooms and Mountain
Caviar, 162
Nigiri with Grilled Shiitake Mushrooms, 160
Nigiri with Kombu-cured Big Island Amberjack, 138
Nigiri with Octopus, 155
Nigiri with Olive Oil–marinated Sardines, 142
Nigiri with Pickled Turnip, 158
Nigiri with Poached Shrimp, 144–45

Nigiri with Santa Barbara Spot Prawns, 146
Nigiri with Sea Bass, 137
Nigiri with Seared Bonito, 139
Nigiri with Sea Scallops, 147–49
Nigiri with Soy-marinated Tuna, 132
Nigiri with True Snapper, 140
Nigiri with Tuna, 131
Nigiri with Vinegar-cured Mackerel, 143
Nigiri with West Coast King Salmon, 133
octopus, slicing for, 103
round fish fillet, slicing for, 64–68
small fish, slicing for, 74
tuna, slicing for, 80–91
Nori
about, 26–27
toasting, 112

O

Octopus
body of, 103
breaking down and cooking, 102
Nigiri with Octopus, 155
slicing, for nigiri, 103
Okra
Gunkan-maki with Three Slimes, 177
Omelet pans, 38
Oshi-zushi (pressed sushi), 14
Oysters, Lightly Poached West Coast, Gunkan-maki with, 170

P

Pepper, Japanese, 33
Perilla, 34–35
Plum, pickled. See Uméboshi
Ponzu sauce, 119

Prawns, Santa Barbara Spot, Nigiri with, 146

R

Rice
about, 27
balls, 108–10
making sushi, 105–7
Rice bowls, wooden, 38
Rice cookers, 38
Rice paddles, wooden, 38
Rice vinegar. See Vinegar
Rice wine, sweet, 31

S

Sake, 20–23, 30
Salmon
Nigiri with West Coast King Salmon, 133
raw, 133
slicing, for nigiri, 68
Sushi Bowl with Wild Salmon and Salmon Roe, 209
Temaki with Salmon Skin, 201
Salmon roe
Gunkan-maki with Salmon Roe, 174
Scattered Sushi, 212
Sushi Bowl with Sea Urchin and Salmon Roe, 211
Sushi Bowl with Wild Salmon and Salmon Roe, 209
Temaki with Salmon Skin, 201
Salt, 30
Sanshō, 33
Sardines
breaking down, 93–98
Nigiri with Olive Oil–marinated Sardines, 142
Sashimi, 14–16, 18
Scallops

himo, 149
Nigiri with Sea Scallops, 147–49
roe, 149
Scattered Sushi, 212
Sea Bass, Nigiri with, 137
Sea urchin
Gunkan-maki with West Coast Sea Urchin, 173
Scattered Sushi, 212
Sushi Bowl with Sea Urchin and Salmon Roe, 211
Sushi Rice–stuffed Monterey Squid with Sea Urchin, 218
Sesame seeds, 34
Seven-spice pepper blend, 34
Shamoji, 38
Shari, 105–7
Shichimi tōgarashi, 34
Shime saba, 104
Shiso, 34–35
Shōchū, 23
Shōyu, 30
Shrimp, Poached, Nigiri with, 144–45
Snapper, True, Nigiri with, 140
Soybeans, fermented. See Natto
Soy glaze, 118
Soy sauce, 30
Squid
breaking down, 100
choosing, 42
Hosomaki with Squid and Natto, 188
ink, 100
Sushi Rice–stuffed Monterey Squid with Sea Urchin, 218
Stuffed Sushi in a Soybean Pouch, 216–17
Sudachi, 35
Sugar, 30
Sushi. See also individual styles

beverages with, 20–24
choosing fish and shellfish for, 17
condiments and garnishes for, 31–35
creativity and, 9–10
eating guidelines for, 18–19
etiquette, 18–19
history of, 11
ingredients for, 26–31
in other countries, 9
popularity of, 8
styles of, 14
tools and equipment for, 35–38
in the United States, 8–9
Sushi bowls (sushi don)
Sushi Bowl with Chopped Tuna and Green Onion, 206
Sushi Bowl with Sea Urchin and Salmon Roe, 211
Sushi Bowl with Soy-marinated Tuna, 208
Sushi Bowl with Wild Salmon and Salmon Roe, 209
Sushi-meshi, 105–7
Sushi rolls. See Maki-zushi
Sushi-zu, 30, 111

T

Tamari, 30
Tea, green, 24
Temaki (hand rolls)
about, 14
making, 198–200
Temaki with Salmon Skin, 201
Temaki with Spicy Tuna, 202
Temari-zushi (ball sushi), 14
Tezu, 113
Tofu
Stuffed Sushi in a Soybean Pouch, 216–17

Tonburi, 162
Tools, 35–38
Trout, ocean, slicing, for nigiri, 68
Tsume, 118
Tuna. See also Albacore
breaking down, 75–77
choosing, 81
Hosomaki with Tuna, 187
Nigiri with Soy-marinated Tuna, 132
Nigiri with Tuna, 131
Scattered Sushi, 212
scraping, 92
slicing, for nigiri, 80–91
Sushi Bowl with Chopped Tuna and Green Onion, 206
Sushi Bowl with Soy-marinated Tuna, 208
Temaki with Spicy Tuna, 202
Turnips
Nigiri with Pickled Turnip, 158
Temaki with Salmon Skin, 201

U

Uméboshi (pickled plum)
about, 34
Hosomaki with Pickled Plum, Cucumber, and Shiso, 193
Uramaki, 14

V

Vinegar
about, 27
sushi, 30, 111
Vinegar-cured Mackerel, 104

W

Warship rolls. See Gunkan-maki

Wasabi, 31
Wine
as beverage, 23
for cooking, 31

Y

Yuzu
about, 35
with pepper, 35



ANTONIS ACHILLEOS

Hiro Sone (right) is the Japanese-born and James Beard Award–winning
chef and co-owner of Ame Restaurant and Terra Restaurant in the San
Francisco Bay Area.
Lissa Doumani (left) is the co-owner of Ame restaurant and Terra
restaurant.
Antonis Achilleos is a New York—based food and lifestyle photographer.
His work for Chronicle Books includes Fish and Roots.