E-Book-Buddha

Sanchi stupa

Madhya Pradesh

M known as Ujjaini. After was at its peak. because of the presence of all
adhya adopting Buddhism, Ashoka kinds of Buddhist architecture
Pradesh's history in constructed many stupas WORLD HERITAGE - stupas, chaityas, temples and
Buddhism can be traced back throughout his kingdom. Sanchi is a significant site monasteries. All the
to the times of the Mauryan Because of his keen interest in monuments date back from
Emperor Ashoka, who Buddhism the religion for Buddhists from around the third century BC to 12th
renounced violence and went flourished in the state. Though world though Lord Buddha century AD. The important
on to spread the principles presently the state has a himself never paid a visit to it. amongst these are the Four
and philosophies of this majority of Hindu population, Sanchi attracts tourists from Gateways, Great Stupa 1,
religion. Emperor Ashoka travellers can still witness the countries like Sri Lanka, Stupa 2 and 3, the Ashokan
began his career as a viceroy legacy of the glorious age Japan, Thailand, Korea and Pillar, and Temple No 18. Apart
of the western province of the here when Buddhism China among others. This from these, there are Buddhist
Mauryan Empire from Ujjain, destination is significant
which at that point of time was

October 2014 The Land of Buddha | 53

viharas and a museum. It is as one of the most rationally Stupa 1 was found schism in the Buddhist
interesting to note that Lord organised structures in Indian empty, while relics of community. Stupa 1 was found
Buddha is not represented in architecture. Though the the two disciples of empty, while relics of the two
figures but in symbols here. structure was small, it Buddha enshrined in disciples of Buddha enshrined
This indicates a tradition showcased all the principles the adjacent Stupa 3 in the adjacent Stupa 3 were
followed in early Buddhism which went into engineering an were carried away to carried away to England. The
Hinayana wherein Buddha is Indian temple in the early England. The nearby nearby modern temple has a
regarded as a human and not a medieval period. The Buddhas modern temple has a reliquary containing the
god. The Sanchi hill goes up in in the perambulatory reliquary containing remains of a Buddhist teacher
shelves with Stupa 2 situated surrounding Stupa 1 belong to the remains of a from another stupa outside
on a lower shelf, Stupa 1, Stupa the Gupta period in the mid Buddhist teacher Sanchi.
3, the fifth century Gupta fifth century AD. The from another stupa
Temple No 17 and the 17th monastery and the temple with outside Sanchi Located in the Satna district
century Temple No 18 are on tall pillars adjacent to Stupa 1 of Madhya Pradesh, Bharhut is
the intermediate shelf and a and the temple near the another famous Buddhist
monastery on the top shelf. monastery on the crowning destination. The reason being
The balustrade surrounding shelf illustrate the evolution of the presence of a stupa
Stupa 2, carved with aniconic the architectural form after constructed by Emperor
representations of Buddha, the fifth century Gupta temple. Ashoka in the third century
was added in the late second BC, which was renovated by a
century BC under the A Chunar sandstone pillar later Sunga ruler in the second
Satavahanas. fragment with Mauryan polish, century BC. This stupa also
lies near Stupa 1 and carries depicts Buddha in the form of
Sir John Marshall hailed the the famous edict of Ashoka symbols - Bodhi tree,
adjacent Gupta Temple No 17 wherein he is warning against footprints, empty seat and

54 | The Land of Buddha October 2014

HE WHO LOVES 50
PEOPLE HAS 50 WOES;
HE WHO LOVES NO
ONE, HAS NO WOES

October 2014 The Land of Buddha | 55

wheel of dharma. Deur Kothar carving of which foreshadows
in Rewa district is known for early Buddhist art, can be seen
Buddhist stupas excavated in on the railing posts of the
1982. These stupas are largest brick stupa, which rises
credited to Mauryan emperor to a height of nearly 30 feet.
Ashoka for preaching the Some of the other art forms
religion. This place was that are worthy of mention are
discovered by P K Mishra the stone pieces of the
along with Ajit Singh in 1982 Mauryan polished chattra (the
and in 1988 it was identified as multi-tiered umbrella at the
a place of national importance top of a stupa) with evidence of
by the Government of India radial ribs. To the west of the
and is being preserved and main stupa, a lump of iron ore,
conserved by the iron slag and white nodules of
Archaeological Survey of lime indicate the presence of
India, Bhopal. The complex an iron-smelting furnace
proudly houses four brick nearby.
stupas, the most ever found at
a site of this period. The bricks Dharmrajeshwar complex
used are of varied sizes like on Chandangiri hill features a
twirling lotus, conical lotus series of 14 rock cut Buddhist
bud, and a simple flower pot on caves with monasteries and
a three-tiered pedestal-the stupas belonging to the
seventh century. An equivalent

56 | The Land of Buddha October 2014



Dharmrajeshwar to the Ellora Caves in
complex was a well Maharashtra, the
planned monastery Dharmrajeshwar complex was
with more than 70 a well planned monastery with
living quarters, more than 70 living quarters,
pavilions, meditation pavilions, meditation halls,
halls, stupas and stupas and images of Lord
images of Lord Buddha and his disciples.
Buddha and his
disciples SONARI, SATDHARA, ANDHER
AND MURAL KHURD

The stupas and monasteries
of Sanchi were the hub of a
thriving community of
Buddhist monks from third
century BC onwards. Spread
over a 20 km radius, the other
Buddhist settlements in the
region were Andher and Mural
Khurd (northeast of Sanchi)
and Sonari and Satdhara
(southeast and southwest of
Sanchi respectively). Although

58 | The Land of Buddha October 2014

the stupas at these four sites India discovered 60 votive Sonari village is line leading to Stupa 1.
are not as grand as the inscriptions and some elephant located southeast of Sonari village is located
monuments of Sanchi, they are pillar capitals during Sanchi. Sonari might
evidence of the prosperity and excavations from 1993 to 2000 have derived its southeast of Sanchi. From this
growth of Buddhism under here. There is a monastery name from Suvarnari village, the stupas are a 3.5 km
Ashoka and succeeding rulers. near the stupa and the or the golden wheel undulating trek that involves
foundations of a ruined temple. which symbolises two hillocks and a rivulet.
Located at a distance of 17 Stupa 2 is 2.5 m high and Buddha as the Sonari might have derived its
km from Sanchi are the stands 70 m from Stupa 1. This Mahachakravarti name from Suvarnari or the
Satdhara stupas. The stupas stupa contains the relics of born into a royal golden wheel which symbolises
are present on a hill on the Sariputra and Maudgalyayana, house and bathed in Buddha as the
banks of Halali river. Stupa 1 is two of Buddha's renowned the waters of the Mahachakravarti born into a
the largest stupa at Satdhara disciples, whose relics are also four oceans royal house and bathed in the
and it was once almost as large found in Stupa 3 at Sanchi. waters of the four oceans.
as the Great Stupa at Sanchi. There are some ruins of Archeologists are of the theory
Presently, the stupa is 13 m apsidal temples near Stupa 2. that Sonari may have had a
long, though it was once 15 m Stupa 3 situated 500 m north golden wheel mounted on a
high. A small chamber carved of Stupa 1 reveals a number of pillar but no trace of any such
into the stupa's side reveals mud bowls. Stupa 7, which is treasure remains presently.
the original brick construction 2.7 m high, contains some Stupa 1 stands in a large
dating back to Ashokan times. unmarked and unidentifiable square court, each side
The brick was later layered relics. The small Stupas 5, 6 measuring 73 m. The stupa
with stone under the Sungas. and 8 are built along a straight dates back to the end of
The Archeological Survey of Emperor Ashoka's reign. No

October 2014 The Land of Buddha | 59

relics have been found in its of having a railing and it is the Andher village is important place among the
chamber. Stupa 2 is set in a 50 only stupa to still have a located 17 km ancient cities of India since it
sq m enclosure and is 96 m terrace coping. northeast of Vidisha was an important trade centre
from Stupa 1. The relic and it sits atop a hill under the Sungas, Nagas,
chamber of this stupa revealed The railing encloses the that offers scenic Satvahanas and Guptas.
five caskets containing the stupa's base with an entrance views of the location. Emperor Ashoka was governor
relics of Gotiputra, Majhima, to the west and its pillars are The reason why of Vidisha and it finds mention
Kashyapagotra, Kosikiputra decorated with carvings of Andher's stupas have in Kalidasa's Meghdoot.
and Alabagira. There are two flowers and the emblem of survived for many
other smaller stupas here Dharma. Stupa 2 measures centuries is because FESTIVALS
while the ruins of a fifth are just over four m in height and of their location in a The Chethiyagiri Vihara
visible. There are also two contains a number of boxes secluded area,
monasteries here. including a casket inscribed as blending into the festival is a Buddhist festival
containing the relics of topography held at Sanchi at the end of
Andher village is located 17 emancipated Vachhi-putra. November. The festival is
km northeast of Vidisha and it The stupa also contains the attended by thousands of
sits atop a hill that offers relics of Mogalai-putra. Stupa Buddhists monks and pilgrims
scenic views of the location. 3 is only 3.6 m high and who attend the festival to view
The reason why Andher's contains the relics of the relics of Buddha's two
stupas have survived for many Hariti-putra, a famous initial disciples whose remains
centuries is because of their Buddhist teacher during were discovered in Stupa 3 in
location in a secluded area, Ashoka's reign. 1853. The two disciples were
blending into the topography. Sari Puttha and Maha
Stupa 1 has the rare distinction Vidisha is 10 km from Moggallana.
Sanchi, and occupies an

60 | The Land of Buddha October 2014



Dhamek stupa in Sarnath

Uttar Pradesh

K in Uttar Pradesh- Kapilvastu and Kushinagar (where he to have preached his last
nown as the (where Lord Buddha spent his attained Mahaparinirvana). sermon at Kushinagar in 543
first missionary of spirituality, early years), Sarnath (where BC, the city kept flourishing till
Buddha lived and preached in having attained enlightenment One of the most important about 12th century AD. It was
Uttar Pradesh and thus made he delivered his first sermon), Buddhist destinations in Uttar only in 1861 that extensive
the land the 'Cradle of Shravasti (where he spent 24 Pradesh is Kushinagar, which is excavations at the site led to the
Buddhism'. He went beyond monsoons), Kaushambhi (where located about 53 km from resurfacing of the main stupas
rituals, encouraging kings and he visited in the sixth and ninth Gorakhpur; this place is famous related to him. One of the main
the masses to look at their year after attaining for its association with Lord existing tourist attractions in
immortal identity, and to rise enlightenment), Sankisa (where Buddha who is believed to have and around the place is the
above the shackles of desire, he descended after giving attained ‘Mahaparinivana’ - the Ramabhar stupa. This large
longing, suffering and death. It sermon to his mother in heaven) highest stage of salvation. stupa, estimated to be about 50
is worth mentioning that he Although Lord Buddha is known
taught and travelled extensively

October 2014 The Land of Buddha | 63

feet tall, is the site where Lord dismantled form and was Kapilvastu is tourist attractions include:
Buddha was cremated. reassembled in Kushinagar. commonly referred Stupa complex: This is the
Also, UP has a Chinese temple to as Piprahawa.
Mahanirvana temple features which is another popularly Kapilvastu is a place main archaeological site which
a six m long statue of Buddha in frequented tourist destination. with immense was discovered during
a reclining position and the This temple has a historical excavations in 1973-74. It is here
statue is a representation of predominantly Chinese significance. The that old inscriptions were found
Buddha in his last hours. architectural style and is place was formerly with references to ‘Deoputra’
Mathakuar temple is located designed similar to temples the capital of the (Kanishka of the Kushana
about 400 yards from the found in China. Shakya dynasty dynasty), a great patron of
Nirvana stupa; this temple where Lord Buddha Buddhism who built the biggest
houses a black stone image of Kapilvastu is commonly was born vihara at Kapilvastu and
Buddha and has inscriptions referred to as Piprahawa. renovated the main stupa here.
dating back to 10th-11th century. Kapilvastu is a place with Additionally, this complex is an
Watt Thai temple is one of the immense historical significance. ASI protected monument.
most popular and visited tourist The place was formerly the
attractions in Kushinagar, the capital of the Shakya dynasty Palace site: Another
Watt Thai temple is modelled on where Lord Buddha was born. attraction of this place is the site
the Thai Buddhist architectural This place holds significant of a palace believed to be the
style. The Japanese temple value for Buddhist pilgrims and ruins of the palace of King
attracts tourists for, among has several stupas. The Shuddhodhan, the father of
other reasons, its 'Ashta Dhatu' archaeological excavations have Prince Gautam.
or 'Eight Metals' statue of Lord revealed stone caskets
Buddha. This statue was containing relics believed to be Sarnath is located 10 km from
initially brought from Japan in a that of Buddha. Main existing the holy town of Varanasi.
Sarnath is one of the most
important and revered places

64 | The Land of Buddha October 2014

BETTER THAN A
THOUSAND HOLLOW
WORDS, IS ONE WORD
THAT BRINGS PEACE

that form part of the Buddhist imposing conical structure, 28 houses some of the finest
circuit. It is believed that after m in diameter at the base and specimens of Buddhist art
attaining enlightenment in Bodh 43.6 m in height. The Dhamek adjacent to the site.
Gaya, Lord Buddha came to stupa signifies the place where
Sarnath to deliver his first Buddha delivered his first Ashoka Pillar: The pillar
sermon more than 2500 years teachings in the form of the Four with the Lion Capital at Sarnath
ago. Among the number of Noble Truths. The stupa was by Emperor Ashoka, circa 250
stupas that were erected here, constructed by Emperor BC, is also called the Ashoka
one of the more famous ones Ashoka. Column. Here, four lions are
was erected by Emperor seated back to back. At present
Ashoka between the third Mulagandha kuti vihar: A the column remains in the same
century BC and the 11th century modern temple erected by the place where the Lion Capital is
AD. Major sites include: Mahabodhi Society, the at the Sarnath Museum. This
Mulagandha kuti vihar is a Lion Capital of Ashoka from
Chaukhandi stupa: Believed modern version of the older Sarnath has been adopted as the
to have been originally temple that lies in ruins today. A National Emblem of India and
constructed during Emperor storehouse of Buddhist the wheel ‘Ashoka Chakra’ from
Ashoka’s reign, the stupa is the literature, the temple also has its base was placed onto the
first monument encountered frescoes by Kosetsu Nosu, centre of the National Flag of
after entering Sarnath. The Japan’s foremost painter. India.
stupa is primarily made of a
mound of bricks and an Sarnath museum: There are The town of Sankisa is
octagonal tower surrounds the numerous sculptures located about 47 km from
square edifice. comprising numerous Buddha Farrukhabad, and is a place of
and Bodhisattva images spread importance for Buddhists. It is
Dhamek stupa: It is an over Sarnath. The museum believed to be the place where

66 | The Land of Buddha October 2014

Buddha descended after giving Shravana (July-August) every The temple of Maya Devi is attraction of Sankisa. The
sermons to his mother in year. dedicated to the mother of uniqueness of the pillar is the
heaven. There are ruins of Gautam Buddha who is presence of elephants instead
many stupas and monasteries The Buddha temple has regarded as the goddess of of lions. The elephant is
here from ancient times. The become the most important fertility by the people here. believed to be symbolic of the
place is also known for an attraction of Sankisa, as it is The walls of the temple bear white elephant of which
excavated Ashokan elephant believed to be the spot where Buddhist sculptures dating the mother of Buddha had a
pillar. Lord Buddha was supposed to back to Mahayana age. vision at the time of the
have descended from heaven. conception of Siddhartha
A large fair is held at The temple houses a statue of The ruins of Ashokan (Lord Buddha).
Sankisa in the month of Buddha. Elephant Pillar is another

October 2014 The Land of Buddha | 67

Hemis monastery
in Ladakh

Jammu & Kashmir

B Ashoka, who made efforts to in Kashmir. was known to be a prosecutor
uddhism had spread Buddhism in Kashmir. Later, the Kushana period of Buddhists. He destroyed
its ancient roots in Shaivism and Buddhism many temples and monasteries
Kashmir, long before Emperor flourished together in the saw the resurgence of during his regime. Later when
Ashoka made it the popular region. Ashoka is believed to Buddhism, particularly under the old ruling dynasty of the
religion in the region. have appointed the much the rule of Kanishka. Kashmir region came to power, its king
Surrendra is believed to be the respected Buddhist teacher was the location for the fourth Meghavahana, who was
first Buddhist ruler of Madhyantika to spread Buddhist Council during his himself a Buddhist, propagated
Kashmir. He established many Buddhism here. According to regime. As per the texts of the religion and built many
viharas like Narendrabhavana local lore, Madhyantika was Hiuen Tsang, Buddhism stupas.
in Suru, beyond the Zoji Pass also instrumental in suffered its biggest setback
and Saurasa on the banks of introducing saffron cultivation under the Huns. The It was from Kashmir that
Anchar Lake. It was however Hephthalite ruler Mihirakula Buddhism spread to Ladakh,
the great Indian emperor,

October 2014 The Land of Buddha | 69

Central Asia and China. highest building. This palace is Leh is the base from the richest and largest
Almost half the population of structurally similar to the where visitors can monastery in Ladakh, and
Ladakh are Buddhists and this Potala Palace in Lhasa and is explore two Buddhist certainly the most important.
region has many important nine storeys high. From the circuits. While the This gompa is 45 km from Leh
monasteries or gompas located roof of the palace, visitors can first circuit includes and was founded in the 1630s
in spectacular natural settings. see the spectacular mountain places like Shey, during the regime of Sengye
These monasteries are home to ranges surrounding Leh. The Thiksey, Stakna, Namgyal. The monastery is the
Buddhist monks and nuns, and museum in the palace has an Matho, Chembray, site of the two-day annual
have a rich collection of interesting collection of Tak-Tok and Hemis, Hemis Festival, which in the
Thangka paintings, paintings, jewellery, the second circuit recent years emerged as an
manuscripts and artefacts. ceremonial dresses and other covers Spituk, important event for attracting
artefacts. Phyang, Likir, Alchi, tourists. The Hemis Festival
DISCOVERING LADAKH Ridzong and held in June/July every year is
Today it is Ladakh that is the Leh is the base from where Lamayuru the most important annual
visitors can explore two event in Ladakh. One of the
focal point of Buddhism in Buddhist circuits. While the highlights of the festival are
J&K. Leh, the capital of first circuit includes places like the dances performed by
Ladakh, is one of the coldest Shey, Thiksey, Stakna, Matho, monks wearing masks swaying
deserts in the world. It is Chembray, Tak-Tok and Hemis, to the rhythm of cymbals. The
located at a distance of 434 km the second circuit covers festival becomes a much bigger
from Srinagar and 474 km from Spituk, Phyang, Likir, Alchi, event every 12th year when its
Manali in Himachal Pradesh. Ridzong and Lamayuru. most priceless possession - a
Built by King Sengge Namgyal Thangka of Padmasambhava is
in the 17th century, the Leh While Hemis monastery is unfurled for the public. During
Palace was once the world’s not the most spectacular
looking one, it is undoubtedly

70 | The Land of Buddha October 2014

Thiksey monastery in Ladakh

the tourist season, visitors are While the gompa is outside the It is not without in the monastery is the chapel
allowed to stay at the common tourist circuit, reason that Thiksey of Tara with 21 sculpted images.
monastery and participate in primarily because of its monastery is The village of Alchi is about 70
the Hemis Spiritual Retreat location, it is well known for its considered one of km from Leh. In ancient times
run by the monks. The Hemis annual Oracle Matho Nagrang the most beautiful in Alchi was in fact on the main
National Park is not too far Festival in March. Ladakh. It is located trade route of central Asia.
from the monastery. 20 km southeast of
Two monks in the monastery Leh, just off the The main attraction in Alchi
It is not without reason that are chosen as oracles. In a state Leh-Manali highway. is the thousand year old Alchi
Thiksey monastery is of trance they perform The 12 storey monastery, which has been
considered one of the most acrobatic feats and make structure is situated regarded as an important
beautiful in Ladakh. It is located predictions. These famed on a hill and the Buddhist centre, despite the
20 km southeast of Leh, just off oracles of Matho attract visitors temple in the gompa fact that for the last 500 years
the Leh-Manali highway. The 12 from distant places. Until the has a 15 metre tall no religious practices have been
storey structure is situated on a initiation of the Matho Museum statue of Buddha - performed here. The activities
hill, the gompa in fact covers one Project (an international art the tallest in Ladakh were shifted to Likir monastery
side of the hill. The temple in the preservation project), the which is at a distance of 30 km.
gompa has a 15 metre tall statue gompa was known for its yearly Alchi Gompa has beautiful wall
of Buddha - the tallest in oracle festival. However now, paintings in the Choskor
Ladakh. This statue of Maitreya the monastery’s collection of temple, including those of
Buddha or the Future Buddha artefacts has also begun to miniature Buddha. The original
was built at the behest of the attract attention. The Likir monastery that was built
Dalai Lama when he had visited monastery has a rich repository in the 11th century was
the monastery. For tourists of artefacts dating back to the destroyed by a fire. The new
there is a souvenir shop and cafe ninth century, and are great structure came up in the 18th
on the premises. examples of Himalayan century. The highlights of the
Buddhist art. monastery include the three
The Matho Gompa near Leh clay images of Buddha in
is significant because of the fact At a distance of 18 km from 'Marme Zat' (past),
that it is the only one that Leh is the Spituk monastery. 'Sakyamuni' (present) and
belongs to the Sakya order of The word 'Spituk' means 'Maitreya' (future).
Tibetan Buddhism in Ladakh. exemplary. The main attraction

72 | The Land of Buddha October 2014

The Shey Gompa and Shey lies at a distance of 120 km from ‘THREE THINGS
Palace are important Leh. It is a part of the Drikung CANNOT BE
landmarks. The palace used to Kagyu, a subsect of the Kagyu LONG HIDDEN:
be a summer retreat of the school. Considered as a holy THE SUN, THE
kings of Ladakh. The monastery site, it came to be known as MOON, AND
within the palace complex is 'Tharpa Ling', or the 'place of THE TRUTH’
famous for its 12 metre high freedom'.
statue of Buddha, made of
copper and gilded gold. This is ZANSKAR TRAILS
the second largest statue of In neighbouring Zanskar,
Buddha in Ladakh, after the one
in Thiksey monastery. Shey more than 95 per cent
monastery is the site of two population comprises of
annual festivals. The two-day Tibetan Buddhists. Padum is
Shey Doo Lhoo festival is the administrative
celebrated by the monks and headquarters, and is the base
villagers to mark the beginning from where tourists can start
of the sowing season in July / their treks to explore Zanskar's
August. One of the highlights of natural beauty and the
the festival is the visit by an monasteries in the region. Most
oracle reader who goes into a of the populace in Zanskar live
trance and gives prophecies. in small villages, which have its
The Shey Rupla festival is own local monasteries.
celebrated in the beginning of
the harvest season. The Rupla Encouraged by the
dance is performed in tiger emergence of Ladakh as a
costumes. Two soothsayers tourism destination, the state
make predictions during this government has made
festival. ambitious plans of restoring
existing monasteries, setting up
The Lamayuru monastery visitor centres, improving roads
and infrastructure network.

October 2014



Andhra Pradesh

A centre near Vijayapuri, the Buddhist sites among which Dharmakirthi and
ndhra Pradesh capital of the Ikshvaku kings. In Amaravati and Nagarjunakonda Buddharakshita. Andhra
and Telangana boast of a rich the royal stream, males tolerated are world famous Buddhist Pradesh Tourism had identified
history in Buddhist heritage, Buddhism without practicing it, centres. Holy relics of Lord the enormous potential of
which is among the most revered while women strictly preached Buddha were recovered from Buddhist heritage and taken
in the country. The Buddhist Buddhism in the region. Hence places like Amaravati, initiatives to develop Buddhist
settlements in here range Buddhism led to the creation of a Nagarjunakonda, Bhattiprolu sites and monuments as tourist
between the third century BC to large number of stupas, chaityas, and Bavikonda. The region is also attractions.
12th century AD. Various stupas caves and sculptures known for producing famous
and other Buddhist sites came representing the Buddhist spirit. Buddhist philosophers like Andhra Pradesh Tourism took
into existence during this period. Presently Andhra Pradesh and Acharya Nagarjuna, Aryadeva, up several developmental
Mahayana Buddhism was first Telangana have nearly 150 Bhavaviveka, Dinnaga, activities at the three Buddhist
founded by Acharya Nagarjuna, circuits i.e. Visakhapatnam,
who set up a Buddhist learning

October 2014 The Land of Buddha | 75

Vijayawada and Hyderabad. Buddhist monuments and other A new Buddhist site Nagarjunakonda is famous as an
Buddhist tourism is also an sites here. These sites contain was discovered on island museum where Buddhist
important segment of special monuments of various types like the banks of sculptures and artefacts have
interest tourism because of its stupas, monasteries and cave Gosthani river at been beautifully restored and
tremendous appeal to both complexes. New Buddhist sites Gudiwada village in preserved. Amaravati is one of
domestic and foreign tourists are being discovered even to this Vizianagaram the oldest Buddhist sites in India.
from East and South East Asia, day. For instance, a new Buddhist district. Among the Also called Dhanyakatak,
particularly Japan, China, site was discovered on the banks many Buddhist Amaravati is located on the banks
Thailand, Sri Lanka and of Gosthani river at Gudiwada circuits and places, of Krishna river, and has the
Singapore. The Buddhist sites village in Vizianagaram district. the leading ones are largest Buddhist stupa in the
and monuments located at Among the many Buddhist Nagarjunakonda, world. Amaravati attracts large
Nagarjunakonda, Amaravati, circuits and places, the leading Amaravati, number of travellers on the trail
Chandavaram, Guntupalli, ones are Nagarjunakonda, Thotlakonda, of Lord Buddha every year.
Sankaram, Salihundam, Amaravati, Thotlakonda, Bavikonda, Anupa
Ramathirtham, Dantapuram, Bavikonda, Anupa and Sankarm. and Sankarm Located at a distance of 16 km
Jaggayyapeta, Vaddamanu, from Vizag and atop a hill,
Bhattiprolu, Bavikonda, Nagarjunakonda is one of Thotlakonda is an important
Thotlakonda, Ghantasala and greatest centres for learning Buddhist destination since
Phanigiri are preserved and they Buddhism displaying ancient travellers can find Buddhist
attract huge number of tourists Buddhist art and architecture. stupas, chaitya grihas, viharas (10
every year. Nagarjunakonda gets its name with 72 cells), and a stone-pillared
from the renowned Buddhist congregation hall here.
KEY BUDDHIST SITES scholar and monk, Acharya Bavikonda, also located few km
There are around 150 Nagarjuna, the founder of the away from Vizag, boasts of a
Mahayana form of Buddhism. Buddhist site spread over 40

76 | The Land of Buddha October 2014

acres. Bavikonda hosts the This site is unique as all the three WHAT WE
remains of an entire Buddhist forms of Buddhism-Hinayana, THINK, WE
complex with 26 structures Mahayana, and Vajrayan -seem BECOME
comprising of the three to have been practiced here.
Buddhism phases. A piece of
bone kept in an urn, said to be the Apart from these popular
remains of the Buddha is housed Buddhist sites, there are also
here. Moreover, the Hinayana several other heritage
form of Buddhism was widely destinations where travellers can
practiced between the third witness a glimpse of the rich
century BC and the third century Buddhist heritage in India. For
AD at Bavikonda. instance, Chandavaram is an
ancient Buddhist heritage site
Anupa is another famous where one can witness
Buddhist site. Here travellers can Mahastupa built on terraced
find the ruins of a Buddhist platform, Chaityagriha votive
university and a stadium. These stupas, drum slabs and Brahmi
also include sacred stupas, label inscriptions. Known as
viharas, monasteries and an altar. Pratipalapura during the ancient
The stadium has amazing times, Bhattiprolu flourished as a
acoustics considering the time Buddhist town during the rule of
and age it was built. Sankaram is Sala kingdom in present day
a famous Buddhist heritage site Guntur district. Revered for its
and pilgrimage destination ancient Buddha stupa, the site
located 40 km away from Vizag. also justifies the linguistic

October 2014

evidence that Telugu, derives its Salihundam is the village The recently Evidences suggest that this site
origins from the Brahmi script. famous for being a Buddhist excavated Phanigiri served as a cultural and religious
Lingalametta features hundreds remnant site featuring a number village showcases a exchange zone for Buddhism.
of rock cut monolithic stupas in of Buddhist stupas and a huge massive Buddhist The excavation relics at
rows, spread throughout the hill. monastery complex. Located on a complex featuring a Pavuralakonda have exposed the
Other Buddhist attractions here hillock amidst scenic large stupa, two proof of hosting a major ancient
include relic casket, three chaitya surroundings, Salihundam apsidal halls with Buddhist settlement and human
halls, votive platforms, stupas houses Chaityagriha, structural stupas in it, three habitation. Also 16 rock-cut
and Vajrayana sculptures. The temples and a number of viharas as dwelling cisterns used for rainwater
Undavalli caves near Vijayawada sculptures showcasing the relics of monks. The preservation also adorn the
are the one of the finest rock cut of three different Buddhism remains of this hillock and provide a view of the
architecture caves in India. phases - Theravada, Mahayana complex stand on the coastline.
Carved out of solid sandstone on and Vajrayana. Nelakondapalli in top of a table hill
a hillside, the main cave section Khammam district is a remnant shaped as a snake Located on the hill top, the
includes primitive rock example of a Buddhist site hood recently excavated Phanigiri
monastery cells along with other belonging to Ikshvakus - village showcases a massive
caves featuring deities like Vishnukundin times. This site is Buddhist complex featuring a
Vishnu, Shiva and Brahma. believed to have served as a link large stupa, two apsidal halls with
between coastal and Telangana stupas in it, three viharas as
Ghantasala town serves as a areas for traders and also to dwelling of monks. The remains
rare and important centre for Buddhist monks. of this complex stand on the top
Buddhist sculptures. The site has of a table hill shaped as a snake
its own museum containing The Buddhist connection with hood, through which the site got
important Buddhist stupas and Dantapuram site is evident its name - Phanigiri. Likewise,
sculptural slabs found during the through the extracted recently excavated relics of
recent excavations. Gudiwada excavations. The site has Gopalapatnam present the entire
town near Vijayawada also hosts revealed four brick votive stupas Buddhist village which dwelled
relics based on Buddhist and Jain along with various antiquities like on the Budhikonda hill range. The
beliefs. Around 99 low mounds beads of terracotta, semi entire village is dotted with stone
with remnants of Buddhist precious stones, ornaments and veneered, brick built and votive
stupas were excavated here. different coloured potteries. stupas, viharas and other

78 | The Land of Buddha October 2014

Buddhist imprints. the capital city has different Buddha statue at Hussain Sagar lake hotels, budget hotels and state
Bojjannakonda near accommodation facilities ranging tourism guest houses.
from an extensive choice of
Visakhapatnam is a 2000 year luxury to budget hotels. Andhra The Visakhapatnam circuit
old Buddhist heritage spot Pradesh Tourism organises includes Sankaram, 40 km from
famous for a rock cut Lord conducted tours and Visakhapatnam – Bavikonda, 16
Buddha statue. The site is also accommodation is available at km from Visakhapatnam –
known to have yielded ancient tourist guest houses at Salihundam, 116 km from
statues of Buddha in various Nagarjunasagar and Hyderabad. Visakhapatnam. Visakhapatnam
postures, stupas and other Also the state transport plies is well linked by rail, road and air
Buddhism related structures like frequent bus services from to all parts of the country. The
meeting halls. Even different Hyderabad to all identified city is a an hour’s flight away from
varieties of bricks used in the Buddhist sites. A boat ride takes Hyderabad. Buddhist sites
construction during the Buddhist one to the towering 18 m high, 350 around Visakhapatnam are
period were discovered from this ton monolith statue of the accessible by road. Means of
site. The black hill - Durga Konda Buddha, located mid-lake on transport available include
near Ramatheertham in Hussain Sagar. private taxis and state transport
Vizianagaram features remains buses. Visakhapatnam offers
of a Buddhist monastic complex The Vijayawada circuit tourists luxury and budget
and rock-cut caves. includes Amaravati, 65 km from friendly hotels.
Vijayawada – Chandavaram, 150
THE THREE CIRCUITS km from Vijayawada - Guntupalli, FESTIVALS
There are three major 120 km from Vijayawada – The three day Lumbini festival
Adurru, 250 km from Vijayawada
Buddhist circuits in the region. and 50 km from Rajahmundry – is a perfect representation of
The Hyderabad circuit includes Bhattiprolu, 50 km from Buddhist culture and attracts
Nagarjunakonda, 150 km from Vijayawada – Ghantasala, 75 km millions of visitors every year.
Hyderabad – Anupa, four km from Vijayawada. The festival is named Lumbini,
from Nagarjunasagar – Accommodation to suit different because that was the place where
Dhulikatta, 200 km from budgets and requirement is easily Gautam Buddha was born. This
Hyderabad –Nelakondapalli, 150 available. There are three star festival is conducted every year in
km from Hyderabad. For tourists, December.

October 2014 The Land of Buddha | 79

Sirpur

Chhattisgarh

S Dalai Lama in March 2013. Sirpur installed inside the vihar. make her feel the pain of other
irpur, the is known for its Buddha vihars. Sirpur is also famous for its mothers. The incidence changed
city in Chhattisgarh, which was The most famous is Anand her and she became a Buddhist
once the capital of the Prabhu Kuti Vihar constructed sites with remains of 100 Buddha monk. The statue of Haritika also
Sarbhapuriya and Somvanshi by Bhikshu Anand Prabhu, a viharas, four Jain viharas, 200 reflects the popularity of the
Kings of Dakshin (south) Kosala, follower of Buddha, during the mounds and more than 100 Shiva female cult in early India. The
was an important centre of period of Mahashivgupt Balarjun. temples. Built by Mahashivgupt modern day Sirpur, has remains
Buddhism since the sixth to 10th The vihar had 14 rooms and the Balarjun, the Buddhist of the ancient and medieval
century AD. The destination was main entrance had the Dwarapal monastery also has a statue of a Buddhist era, which is said to be
visited by Hiuen Tsang, the carved in stone pillars on either Buddhist female monk believed one of the most treasured places
seventh century Chinese pilgrim side. A six feet tall statue of to be that of Haritika, who used to for Buddhists and historians. It is
and scholar. And in recent times, Buddha touching the earth is abduct and kill infants. It is said believed that due to a devastating
Sirpur has been visited by the that the Buddha stole her child to
presence of His Holiness the

October 2014 The Land of Buddha | 81

earthquake the city got buried live. Mahashivgupt Balarjun The modern day and other historic monuments
under mud in the 12th century. was himself a follower of Sirpur, has remains are the main attractions here for
‘shaiva’ yet he patronised of the ancient and the visitors.
The archaeological remains Buddha vihar because of his medieval Buddhist
in Sirpur are considerably generosity. era, which is said to PLACES OF INTEREST
eroded now. However, whatever be one of the most Sirpur is known for its
little is left, is still a pride for Sirpur remained a well-known treasured places for
this region. The first traces of centre of study and art due to its Buddhists and Buddha vihar built through
ancient Sirpur were found in political stability and religious historians. It is historic remains. The
the copper inscriptions of tolerance. After Mahashivgupt believed that due to excavation also unearthed the
Sharabhpurya, Emperors Balarjun, the political and a devastating remains made-up of bricks,
Pravar Raj and Mahesudeo Raj, cultural significance of Sirpur earthquake the city having underground rooms.
which divulged that they had started diminishing and the got buried under They have a tone blend of Gupt
donated the land of Shripur. golden era of south Kosala was mud in the 12th dynasty temple and residential
Since then, this place was soon over. Over the ages, the century building. There are mainly
established as a significant natural calamity took a heavy toll residential rooms, meditation
historic, cultural and political and most of the historic temples rooms and study rooms. The
centre. During the 57 year long and vihars were devastated place is also known as the
rule of Mahashivgupt Balarjun, reducing them to heaps of clay meeting point of Awlokite
a number of temples, Buddha and stone. The archaeological Shwar and Makarwahini Gange.
vihars, ponds and gardens were splendour of Sirpur, Mahanadi The inscription on these vihars
constructed. There were 100 and its green surroundings have had been built by one follower of
Sangharams at the time in also contributed tremendously. Buddha Bhikshu Anandprabhu
which some 10,000 followers of The Laxman temple Anand during the period of
Mahayan community used to Prabhu, Kuti vihar, Swastik vihar Mahashivgupt Buddha

82 | The Land of Buddha October 2014

Balarjun. The shelter of Anand- Buddhist devotees. The temple ‘NO ONE SAVES
Prabhu was also built near the of Pragyagiri sits on the hills at US BUT
vihar, as the inscription reveals. a height of 650 m above the OURSELVES. NO
Another vihar also came into ground level. The temple has a ONE CAN AND
light through excavation. This Buddha statue which is 30 ft NO ONE MAY.
vihar is known as Swastik vihar, high. Reaching the temple is WE OURSELVES
which is believed to be used for tedious as one has to climb 225 MUST WALK
meditation and study purpose steps to reach the temple. THE PATH’
by Buddha Bhikshus. The
Buddha idol, touching the earth Last year, His Holiness the
is installed here also apart from Dalai Lama meditated for 20
the stone-carved statues. minutes at the 'Chanda Dai'
Related to Buddhism, there caves, near Sirpur on the hills of
were metal idols also collected Singhdhurva in Mahasamund
during the excavation. district. These hills are located
around 17 km from the town of
Another important Buddhist Sirpur and house more than 15
destination is Dongargarh, a caves. According to archeological
small city in Rajnandgaon experts, Nagarjuna, who is
district in Chhattisgarh. The considered to be one of the most
word Dongargarh comes from prominent Buddhist
two words: 'Dongarh' means philosophers after Lord Buddha
Mountain and 'Garh' meaning has meditated in these caves
Fort. Pragyagiri is one of the between the first and second
most important place for centuries.

October 2014

Peace pagoda in Darjeeling

West Bengal

A Buddhist colleges and is the Ghoom monastery. The Mag-Dhog Yolmowa
ncient Bengal universities. attractions in this monastery monastery, also known as
was the seat of Buddhism. include the statue of seated 'Aloobari', is another
During the Mauryan period, DARJEELING & KALIMPONG Buddha, old murals and rare interesting Buddhist site for
northern Bengal, was the seat Darjeeling boasts of an preserve of Buddhist tourists. The monastery was
of culture and political manuscripts. The Bhutia Busty built under the supervision of
activities; and in third century interesting cultural and monastery is dedicated to red Sri Sangay Lama, a revered
BC both Buddhism and religious diversity. After sect lamas in Darjeeling. The religious head of Yolmowa - a
Jainism were prevalent in Hinduism, Buddhism is the Japanese Peace Pagoda is one small ethnic group hailing
northern Bengal. Buddhist most popular religion here. of the 70 pagodas built by the from north-east of Nepal and
traditions continued for Hence, travellers can find Japanese Buddhist, Nipponzan who later settled in Darjeeling.
centuries up to the end of the many monasteries in this Myohoji around the world. The monastery contains
Pala period which was marked district. Popular amongst them
by the establishment of some

October 2014 The Land of Buddha | 85

several idols of Lord Buddha the year 1975. Zang Dhok Palri Nepal and Bhutan. At the
and Padmasambhava and Zang Dhok Palri Phodang is Phodang is a request of the Tibetan
varied paintings on the wall. Buddhist monastery merchants and some
The monastery also preserves a Buddhist monastery in in Kalimpong. The Bhutanese leaders living in
several ancient Buddhist Kalimpong. The monastery is monastery is located Kalimpong to establish a
manuscripts. located atop Durpin hill, one of atop Durpin Hill, one monastery there,
the two hills of the town. It was of the two hills of the Kalsang instituted this
The Dali monastery in consecrated in 1976 by the town. It was monastery.
Darjeeling was founded by visiting Dalai Lama. consecrated in 1976
Kyabje Thuksey Rinpoche, a by the visiting Dalai OTHER FINDINGS
disciple of Drukchen Tenzin The monastery houses many Lama Moghalmari is a village and
Khenrab Gelek Wangpo, the rare scriptures that were
great monk of Drukpa Kargyud brought into India after the an archaeological excavation
lineage. In 1993, at the invasion of Tibet in 1959. It also site in the West Medinipur
inauguration of the houses the 108 volumes of district of West Bengal. The
monastery's new building, Kangyur. Another monastery excavation of the site which
Dalai Lama - His Holy situated in Kalimpong is the began in 2002-03, led by
Highness - gave a three day Gaden Tharpa Choling Professor Asok Datta of
religious preaching there. monastery. This monastery Calcutta University revealed
Yiga-Choling Buddhist was founded by Domo Geshe the presence of a Buddhist
monastery, located in Ghoom, Rinpoche Ngawang Kalsang in monastery dated between
belongs to the yellow sect of 1912. History says that Kalsang sixth to 12th century. A
Buddhism, which worships lived in Kalimpong in 1906 detailed excavation of the site
'Maitreya Buddha'. This when he came to India for started in November 2013 by
monastery was constructed in pilgrimage and to collect the State Archaeological
medicinal plants from India,

86 | The Land of Buddha October 2014

JUST AS A CANDLE CANNOT
BURN WITHOUT FIRE, MEN
CANNOT LIVE WITHOUT A
SPIRITUAL LIFE

October 2014 The Land of Buddha | 87

88 | The Land of Buddha In an effort to attract
foreign tourists into
the state, the West
Bengal government
had initiated steps to
develop a Buddhist
trail covering places
of interest like West
Bengal, Bihar,
Jharkhand, Uttar
Pradesh and Sikkim

October 2014

Tharpa Choling Monastery in Kalimpong

Directorate led to the to 1974 revealed a Buddhist of interest like West Bengal, BUDDHIST CELEBRATIONS
discovery of several artefacts monastic complex at Bihar, Jharkhand, Uttar Buddha Jayanti, the birth
and six tablets. Jagjivanpur in Bharatpur. Pradesh and Sikkim. The
Malda district is the proposal also included a 10 day anniversary of Lord Buddha, is
excavation site of a Buddhist In an effort to attract foreign trip to cover this circuit by a celebrated in West
monastery, Nandadirghika- tourists into the state, the state-of-the-art train like Bengal in the month of May at
Udranga Mahavihara. Also West Bengal government had ‘Palace on Wheels’ twice a various Buddhist monasteries
Burdwan’s excavations in 1972 initiated steps to develop a month. in Kalimpong and
Buddhist trail covering places Darjeeling.

October 2014 The Land of Buddha | 89

Tawang Monastery

Arunachal Pradesh

I SEAT OF MAHAYANA BUDDHISM night.' It is the largest gompa of three storied assembly hall and a
n Arunachal Tawang is as famous for its its kind in the country and the massive gilded statue of Lord
Pradesh, almost 13 per cent of the second largest monastery in Asia, Buddha.
population practice Mahayana natural beauty as its world which oversees the religious
and Hinayana (Theravada) famous monastery. Tawang is an functioning of 17 monasteries in The monastery
Buddhism. While the Mahayana important seat of Mahayana the district and adjoining areas. accommodates more than 500
sect includes tribes like Monpas Buddhism famous for Tawang The monastery stands 10,000 ft lamas. The inhabitants of the
and Sherdukpens (West Kameng monastery founded by Mera above sea level and is situated area mostly belong to the Monpa
and Tawang); Khambas and Lama Lodre Gyaltso during the atop a hill. It is a must visit tribe and the monastery is the
Membas (West Siang and Upper 17th century. The monastery is destination for tourists going to centre of all their social and
Siang), the Hinayana also known in Tibet as Galden Arunachal Pradesh. The religious matters. The monastery
practitioners are primarily Namgey Lhatse, which means highlight of the attraction is a is a fortified complex that covers
Khamptis, Singphos and Tikhak 'celestial paradise in a clear an area of 135 sq metres. Within
(Lohit, Namsai and Changlang).

October 2014 The Land of Buddha | 91

the complex are 65 residential gompa is of particular To improve tourism the 12th reincarnate of the Tsona
buildings and 10 other structures. significance because it is where in Buddhist areas, a Gontse Rinpoche. It is the
The library contains a valuable the sixth Dalai Lama, Thangyang passenger ropeway birthplace of the 12th Dalai Lama.
collection of scriptures, some Gyatso, was born in 1683. There is has been The monastery that follows the
dating back to the 17th century. a stone slab inscribed with the constructed to Mahayana school of Buddhism
There is also a Center for words ‘Lama Kheno’ meaning connect Tawang celebrates many important
Buddhist Cultural Studies where ‘God knows’. It is believed that Gompa and Ani Buddhist festivals. Losar being
young monks learn about these words were written by the Gompa (nunneries) the most important festival,
monastic traditions. sixth Dalai Lama when he was a with the financial marking the beginning of the new
young boy just before he left for support of the year. The festival is celebrated for
To improve tourism in Tibet. The monastery was Government of India. 15 days. Another important
Buddhist areas, a passenger rope destroyed by Mongol invaders in Ani Gompa is run by festival is the Saka Dawa,
way has been constructed to 1714. Its prized possessions were nuns marking the occasion of Buddha's
connect Tawang Gompa and Ani however transferred to Tawang enlightenment. Torgya festival
Gompa (nunneries) with the monastery before the marks the celebration of good
financial support of the destruction. There is a temple at over evil while Dukpa Tse-Shi is
Government of India. Ani Gompa the site today. in honour of the first sermon
is run by nuns. These are among delivered by Buddha.
the oldest in the country. The Bomdila, located in the west
festivals celebrated in Tawang Kameng district of Arunachal One of oldest Buddhist
annually include Losar, Choskar, Pradesh, is famous for its three monasteries in Arunachal,
and Torgya. The Dungyur festival Tibetan monasteries. The Samtem Yongcha of Mahayana
is celebrated every three years. Bomdila monastery is known as sect, is situated on a hill top
the Gentse Gaden Rabgyel Lling overlooking the valley in
Just five km south of Tawang monastery. It was established by Mechuka, a sub-divisional
is the Urgelling monastery. This

92 | The Land of Buddha October 2014

headquarter. grounds of the temple. IT IS BETTER
On August 15, 2014, Namsai TO TRAVEL
EVOLVING TRADITIONS WELL THAN
The ‘Pemako Zone’ of Tibetan became the 18th district of TO ARRIVE
Arunachal Pradesh. Namsai is
Buddhism is found in Gelling- also well known for its many The Land of Buddha | 93
Tuting-Singa in upper Siang Buddhist viharas, and is being
district. It comprises of small promoted as an educational
hamlets in beautiful natural hub by the government. There
surroundings. Many gompas, is also a Mahabodhi College
Buddhist shrines and traditional here. Namsai and Manmao are
artefacts can be found here. major centres of Theravada
Tuting is a place from where sect.
adventure enthusiasts can go on
treks. The China border is visible Namsai Buddha vihar is well
from here. known for its Buddha Purnima
celebrations every year, along
The Buddhist Temple in with thrice blessed day festival
Itanagar, the capital of marking the birth, attainment
Arunachal Pradesh, is a more of enlightenment and Nirvana
recently built structure. The of Buddha. Villagers and
temple’s centre of attraction is devotees from different
a tree that was planted by the communities take out a
Dalai Lama. Located on a hill, procession with a big statue of
visitors can get a good view of Buddha in a vehicle decorated
Itanagar town from the with prayer flags.

October 2014

Shanti stupa at Dhauli

Odisha

T tooth relic of Buddha was also (monasteries) and images found beauty of the state. It is because
he visit of the brought into the state. Scholars across the state stand as of destinations such as Lalitgiri,
Chinese traveller Hiuen Tsang to believe that between the eight- testimony to its long heritage. Ratnagiri and Udaygiri hills
Odisha (Orissa) is said to be at 10th century, Buddhism was the located 90 km from
the time when Buddhism in this state religion under the Buddhist tourism in Odisha Bhubaneshwar and 60 km north
state began to flourish. Even Bhaumakaras and this period has observed the opening up of east of Cuttack, that Odisha
though Buddha never visited the also saw the evolution of the some new vistas by recent attracts many Buddhist tourists
state, Buddhism has been known tantric form of Mahayana findings from excavations. each year.
since its inception there. Buddhism. The influence and Despite the fact that many
According to Buddhist impact of Buddhism continued in Buddhist monuments already The Ratnagiri hill is known to
chronicles, Buddha’s Kesa Asthi Odisha until the 15th century. The exist in Odisha, these newly have the most extensive ruins
(hair relic) was brought in by two innumerable stupas, viharas identified sites with Buddhist and is famous for housing the
rich traders, and in the remains have also added to the monastery of 'Pushpagiri'
subsequent period the nail and

October 2014 The Land of Buddha | 95

reported by Tsang. Most of the such rock edicts still surviving in There are 15 caves in the state, which established a
sculptures found date back to the state. The inscriptions are carved in the mark in the history of Buddhism
eight and ninth centuries. The public injunctions where Khandagiri hill. It is in the ancient and medieval era. A
Lalitgiri hills also serve to be a Emperor Ashoka asks his believed that most of home to rock-cut Buddhist
historical site of importance. An administrators and the general these caves were stupas and numerous early
ancient stupa containing relics public to live peacefully and carved out as medieval Buddhist shrines,
preserved in caskets of stone is follow the lessons that Buddhism residential blocks for Langudi has a well preserved
one of the recent and spectacular has to offer. Jain monks during place in all the major sects of
discoveries. Dhauli is famous for the reign of King Buddhism - Theravada,
its Buddhist monuments. It is The Peace Pagoda (Vishwa Kharavela. Udaygiri Mahayana and Vajrayana or
also the place where the bloodiest Shanti Stupa), built in 1972 by the means 'Sunrise Hill' Tantrayana. The Khandagiri and
of battles was fought and was Kalinga Nippon Buddha Sangha, and has 18 caves Udaygiri caves suggest the
won by Emperor Ashoka. It is is another Buddhist destination while Khandagiri has influence of Buddhism and
also the moment that marked his in Odisha. A monastery named 15 caves Jainism in Odisha, which dates
transformation from an Saddharma Vihar Lalitgiri was back to the second century BC.
ambitious king of a prospering also constructed here, thus, There are 15 caves carved in the
kingdom to a follower of Buddha making it the earliest Buddhist Khandagiri hill. It is believed that
and his teachings. The evidence complex of the first century AD. most of these caves were carved
of this transformation can be Langudi, a lower hilly region out as residential blocks for Jain
seen at Dhauli, eight km from running from north to south in monks during the reign of King
Bhubaneswar, in the form of a the plains of the Mahanadi delta Kharavela. Udaygiri means
rock edict marked by the image of in Jajpur district and situated at a 'Sunrise Hill' and has 18 caves
an elephant sculpted from the distance of 90 km from while Khandagiri has 15 caves.
overhanging rock. There are two Bhubaneshwar, the capital of The caves of Udaygiri and
Odisha, is one of those few places

96 | The Land of Buddha October 2014

Khandagiri, called lena in the concentration of Buddhist THE FOOT
inscriptions, were dug out mostly remains which can be found at FEELS THE
during the reign of Kharavela for three sites - Ratnagiri, Udaygiri, FOOT WHEN IT
the abode of Jain ascetics. The and Lalitgiri - referred to as the FEELS THE
most important of this group is ‘Diamond Triangle’. These sites GROUND
Ranigumpha in Udaygiri which is consist of a series of monasteries,
a double storeyed monastery. temples, shrines, stupas, and The Land of Buddha | 97
artistic sculptures of Buddhist
More than 200 Buddhist sites images. The state tourism
are scattered across the length department has in the last few
and breadth of the state, which years been developing tourist
have been revealed through facilities to these important
recent excavations. These recent Buddhist destinations.
findings show the prominence of
Buddhism in the state from the Ratnagiri, ‘Hill of Jewels’, has
sixth century BC to at least 16th the most extensive Buddhist
century AD. Apart from these, ruins in Odisha and is of great
Buddhist monuments are importance as a Buddhist site -
scattered throughout the state both for its magnificent
still awaiting further excavation sculptures and as a centre for
and study. Cuttack, Sambalpur, Buddhist teachings. One of the
Balasore, Ganjam and Phulbani first Buddhist universities in the
are some, to name a few. world, is the renowned one at
Nalanda (in Bihar state), which is
However having said that, the believed to have been located at
highlight is the largest

October 2014

Ratnagiri. The Buddhist site in The monastery known as second century BC to the 13th
Ratnagiri dates back to the sixth Monastery 1, constructed in century AD. The ruins while not
century AD. It appears that eighth/ninth century AD, is the being as extensive as those at
Buddhism flourished unhindered largest excavated monastery in Ratnagiri and Udaygiri, are
there until the 12th century AD. Odisha. Its elaborately carved notably said to be one of the
In the beginning, it was a centre green doorway leads to 24 brick oldest Buddhist settlements in
for Mahayana Buddhist. During cells. There is also an imposing Odisha.
the eight and ninth centuries seated Buddha sculpture, flanked
AD, it became a significant centre by Padmapani and Vajrapani, in Undoubtedly, the most
for Tantic Buddhism. the central sanctum. exciting discovery has been the
Subsequently, it played a notable three relic caskets (two
role in the emergence of Udaygiri, also known as containing small pieces of
Kalachakra Tantra. ‘Sunrise Hill’, is home to another charred bone) inside the stupa at
large Buddhist complex in Lalitgiri. Buddhist literature
The Ratnagiri site was Odisha. It consists of a brick states that after the death of
discovered in 1905. Excavations stupa, two brick monasteries, a Buddha, his corporal remains
carried out between 1958 to 1961 stepped stone well with were distributed amongst his
revealed a massive stupa, two inscriptions on it, and numerous disciples to be placed within
monasteries, shrines, numerous rock-cut Buddhist sculptures. stupas. Hence, the remains are
votive stupas, a large number of The Udaygiri site has been dated presumed to have belonged to the
terracotta and stone sculptures, back to first-13th century AD. Buddha himself, or one of his
architectural fragments, and Major excavations carried out at prominent disciples. The Odisha
Buddhist antiquities including Lalitgiri from 1985 to 1992 government intends to display
bronze, copper and brass objects unearthed evidence of it being the relic caskets in a museum at
(some with images of Buddha). continuously occupied from the Lalitgiri in the future.

98 | The Land of Buddha October 2014