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Published by heather, 2020-02-14 14:17:49

Waterway Explorer Magazine 2020

Waterway Explorer Magazine 2020

Crowdfunding Starting a blog is another way
you can earn money on the side
Crowdfunding typically but just because you like to write
requires a large audience doesn’t mean you’ll get paid to do so.
before cashing in, but it You’ll need to optimize your website
truly does pay off. Sailing La with affiliate marketing, crowdfunding
Vagabonde and SV Delos are
great examples. They host and partnerships to help you earn
videos, websites and social money from that.
media and use Patreon
to attract memberships Freelancing Services
to different tiers in return
for creative content. This category opens up a load of
Many crowdfunding brands options for individuals who are
are for fundraising purposes traveling full-time. You can freelance
only but Patreon is great for special skills to compete with local
creators to provide something businesses or you can sign up for skill
back to patrons in return for share sites to help out with general
their hard-earned cash. tasks. I’ve met cruisers who are
working hairdressers, handymen working on other
Affiliate & Influencer Marketing people’s boats, dog walkers, graphic artists creating from afar
and even grocery delivery to locals. Depending on your skills,
Remember when I mentioned Airbnb? My affiliation with them you may be able to take it on the road and market your services.
allows me to provide incentives to others interested in their There are also plenty of websites that let you sign up and take
services. In return for mentioning them, I also get a reward advantage of their marketing platform to freelance online.
for spreading the word. It’s an easy way for brands to get
additional business and allows anyone the opportunity to be an Working Remotely
ambassador. Companies are looking for micro-influencers to
help expand their brands, and it’s a great business to be in that Having a job along the way is a great way to continue your
can earn you some serious cash. career and make money while living a nomadic lifestyle. It does
take some dedication, though, even if it’s part time. First, you’ll
Starting an Online Business need to get a job lined up with a company that will approve of
remote work capabilities.
This is something that may need some attention while you
are along your way, but in some cases it won’t need you at all. If your current job allows it, you’re all set. If you need to
An example of this would be through drop shipping or starting find a job yet, better start looking. While the job market is
an e-commerce business where you’re selling products while moving more towards a remote lifestyle, it’s very competitive.
third parties are fulfilling the orders. Another way of making When applying locally for a job, you might be competing with
an online business work for you is to buy an already existing a small pool of candidates, but remote work opens up an entire
e-commerce website with established business and manage country of candidates. Popular industries that allow remote
those efforts. This can be somewhat risky but could set you up work are programming, design, copy writing, customer support,
for making a good passive income. bookkeeping, sales, marketing and more.

Earning Money Underway For More Information

Another way you can compensate for the expense of the This article has hopefully helped get you in the right mindset.
cruising lifestyle is by earning money underway. It could be I’ve mentioned a lot of ways you can earn money but not a
through writing an article (such as this one) or freelancing lot of ways to find these opportunities. Think you have what
services you’re familiar with along the way. it takes to make money while traveling? Visit my website
(maryandtharon.com/pew) for a full list of ways you can earn
Writing Gigs money along your travels. My husband and I both do a mix
of PEW to fund our sailing adventures and have been working
Selling your writing is all about either being an enthusiast since day one of our travels. We may miss out on some fun
about a specific topic or willing to learn how to write technical activities at times due to work, but it’s given us freedom to make
articles about a certain topic. Regardless of which way you money while traveling. H
go, you’ll need to be able to sell your articles to magazines or Mary Rodriguez took her career and moved aboard a 36-foot
publications. The more you publish, the more you’ll be asked Nonsuch to set sail and travel full-time. She’s a digital nomad
to write as long as you fit the needs of the publisher and you (see zenomad.com) and loves writing for Waterway Guide!
stay on good terms.
WATERWAY EXPLORER 2020 51

Nav Alert:

Fairport Bridge Construction on Erie Canal

The iconic 106-year-old Fairport (Main St.) Lift Bridge corners, and no two angles are the same. Because it’s not level,
will be undergoing major repairs throughout the there is 9-foot vertical clearance at the south end and 6-foot
2020 season and will be closed to vehicular vertical clearance at the north end when in the down position.
traffic. During reconstruction it will remain in the When raised, the northern side has 16-foot vertical clearance
raised position, so no need to call the bridge and the south side has 19-foot vertical clearance. More than a
operator but expect some potential delays few boaters have misjudged its uneven height…and lost.
while work is ongoing.
Because it is a historic structure, the open clearance will
The bridge spans 139 feet and is the remain the same after construction, and boaters will once again
first lift bridge cruisers encounter when need to radio the operator to request an opening.
traveling west from Oswego on the
Erie Canal. The 343-ton bridge is The project, which began in September 2019, is estimated
a one of a kind, having been built to take 15 months and cost $9 million. Expect some traffic
on a bias, with the south end higher restrictions and potential delays while work is ongoing.
than the north and each corner at Check the NYS Canal Corp Notices to Mariners at canals.
a different height. It has no square ny.com for updates. H

To read more about the Fairport area refer to the 2020
Great Lakes Vol. 1 edition of Waterway Guide

52 WATERWAYGUIDE.COM

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WATERWAY EXPLORER 2020 53

FEATURES

Staying Up Past Bedtime:

Learning to Love Overnight Trips

Nighttime anchorage in Miami, Florida

For the past four years, my husband, Matt, and I Staying Out After Dark
have joined the legions of cruisers who travel I-95’s
watery cousin, the ICW. We point the bow of our For many boaters, their first overnight trip is a rite
38-foot sailboat south in the fall, seeking warmer of passage. At first consideration, it seems like a
climes. And then we crawl our way back north in bad idea. What about other boats moving around in
the spring to avoid summer hurricanes. the dark? What about those pesky aids to navigation
While the ICW is considered by many to be the (ATONS) that seem so helpful in the day but at night
highway that connects north and south, we like it for a become weapons of doom, waiting to hole the boat?
different reason–it presents options. On our boat, the What about loose containers that may have fallen
crew’s comfort is one of the most important factors off ships and are bobbing about? What if you are not
considered when planning trips. When the wind and able to sleep on your off shift? What if someone falls
seas are up, the weather is bitterly cold or everyone overboard? What if, what if…?
is a little tired, the ICW is the perfect leisure cruise.
But sometimes, hopping outside for a quick overnight Our first offshore overnight came about because we
is just what the skipper ordered. wanted to challenge ourselves and also for logistical
reasons. Based in North Palm Beach, we wanted to get
There are many reasons to choose an offshore to Miami for a Christmas vacation, but we didn’t want
nighttime trip. It can be an efficient way to make miles. to spend days of precious vacation time getting there.
It can help cruisers avoid bridge delays, sailors can Adding to the decision to make an offshore leap from
shake out their sails and save some diesel, and deep- Ft. Lauderdale to Miami was the fact that our mast
draft vessels can avoid shoaling trouble spots along the wouldn’t fit under the 55-foot vertical clearance Julia
ICW. Finally, traveling offshore at night is an achievable Tuttle Bridge. So, offshore and overnight it was.
challenge that can increase your confidence in yourself,
your boat and your crew. It’s also an excellent way to I was nervous. (Okay...terrified.) We went out of the
start prepping for even longer passages. inlet at sunset. Then it got dark…seriously, nighttime-
on-the-ocean dark. We weren’t even in the middle of
54 WATERWAYGUIDE.COM the ocean. We had the gleaming lights of the South

Florida shoreline the whole way. It was beautiful. landmarks for navigation. It can also help you navigate
Living in South Florida, I didn’t normally get to see through rain and fog and even dodge those pesky
stars at night. But just a few miles offshore, you could summer thunderstorms.
see stars. We completed our watches. We napped in
the salon. I listened to audiobooks. Chocolate was Extra safety considerations are especially important
consumed. I was surprised at how early the day at night. While it’s important to stay onboard the
began to dawn. Then the sun rose and we were in boat in daylight hours, it’s vital at night. If your crew
Miami. Just like that. is off watch and napping, they’re not going to notice
your departure from the boat. For this reason, wear a
It was the perfect first-time night sailing experience. lifejacket with reflective strips and a safety strobe at all
Nothing broke, and we didn’t hit anything. We were times, always use a tether when on deck and consider
able to sail while avoiding South Florida’s 34 bridges, investing in a personal locator beacon (PLB) or (PAB if
constant boat traffic and the chance of being dismasted your boat has AIS). These pocket-sized man overboard
by the Julia Tuttle Bridge. All good things! (MOB) transmitters will help rescuers (or your crew)
find you faster should the worst happen.
Equipment
Watchkeeping & Safety
We love having all the bells and whistles on board.
Because we’re full-time cruisers, our investment You’ll want to set some rules of the ship for your own
in both Automatic Identification System (AIS) and vessel and your crew. On our boat, no one goes on
radar has paid off. If you’re planning to do significant deck without first waking the off-watch crewmember.
cruising, both can be great sources of comfort. Everyone should have their vests and PLBs on and be
My night vision isn’t great, and I have a hard time tethered in at all times.
determining the distance of lights. AIS is a massive
help at night for monitoring big ship traffic. It shows You’ll want to customize a watch schedule that
vessel names, their sizes and the closest points of works for you. We are firm believers that someone
approach. If it looks concerning, you can call the vessel should be at the helm actively looking for trouble at all
by name and make arrangements for a safe passage. times. The actual length of time we spend on and off
(Calling “that huge ship near me” usually does watch varies considerably, depending on the time of
not get a response.) day, how long the trip is, what the weather is doing and
how each one of us is feeling. In general, our watches
If there’s one piece of equipment I wouldn’t are 3 to 4 hours long, but there have been times we
cruise without, it’s radar. It shows objects like have stayed on for longer (or shorter) lengths of time.
those 25-foot fishing boats that don’t have AIS and Most important is that you come up with a plan that
unlit buoys and pilings and can help you identify works for you and that ensures the crew is well rested.

WATERWAY EXPLORER 2020 55

But how do you stay awake during Overnight Options
your watch, and how do you sleep during
your off watch? To keep myself alert, I Where are best locations to try your first overnight passage?
like to listen to entertaining audiobooks Here are a few of our favorites along the ICW.
or podcasts while scanning for other
vessels. I continuously eat healthy Chesapeake Bay
snacks. There may also be a large stash
of chocolate involved (you know, for If you are in a hurry to head south (or north), an overnight
emergencies). To sleep, I keep my regular passage through the Bay can get you to the ICW quickly and
nighttime habits. I always change into without spending hours each day arriving to and departing from
my pajamas and brush my teeth. A lee anchorages in the tributaries along the Bay.
cloth can keep you secure in your bunk,
and an eye mask can block any ambient Cape Hatteras
light, sending your brain a signal that it’s
time to go to bed. With good weather, rounding the Cape is no big deal. There are
no suitable inlets between Norfolk and Beaufort/Morehead City,
If you’re prone to seasickness, it’s NC, so make sure you have a great weather window and give the
essential to try any medication before “Graveyard of the Atlantic” shoal areas a wide berth.
you’re in the middle of a passage.
While at sea is not the time to find out Onslow Bay
about an unknown allergy or have a
severe reaction to a new medication. When heading south, depart Beaufort, NC, for Masonboro Inlet at
When you’ve found something that Wrightsville Beach, NC. This is one of our favorite hops: It’s only 60
works for you, start taking it before your miles with easy inlets and you avoid several bridges, some shoaling
trip so that it can be in your system and the large Camp LeJeune restricted zone. Be sure to plan your
and effective during the trip, when you departure and arrival for favorable tides at the inlets, which will
really need it. Other things that can help often have swift currents!
avoid and mitigate seasickness include
focusing on the horizon, eating ginger Georgia
cookies and sticking with healthy foods.
Caffeine, alcohol and fatty foods tend to Unfortunately, the State of Georgia has a less than stellar
make seasickness symptoms worse. reputation among cruisers. Besides the recent discussions on
anchoring and boater restrictions, the state has enormous tides
Whatever your reason for wanting and troublesome shoaling spots. Luckily, if you’d like to make
to try an offshore nighttime passage, some miles, it’s an easy trip from either Charleston or Beaufort,
know that with the right equipment and SC, to St. Mary’s Inlet (the FL/GA state line).
planning, a careful eye on the weather, a
good audiobook (and maybe a stash of South Florida
chocolate), a successful overnight passage
is achievable. It may even turn out to be Between West Palm Beach and Miami, there are 34 bridges and
the highlight of your trip south. H nearly all have scheduled, restricted openings. Further, anyone with
Lucy Claiborne is a Senior Cruising a 55-foot or taller mast must go outside to avoid Miami’s fixed Julia
Editor for the Waterway Guide’s Tuttle Bridge (the lowest bridge on the entire ICW).
Bahamas edition. She and her husband,
Matt, travel and live aboard their 38- The Bahamas
foot Cabo Rico, Dulcinea, spending
winters in The Bahamas and summers There are several good overnight hops to be made as you make
exploring the East Coast. She has a your way east into the islands. Many choose to cross the Gulf
USCG 50 ton Master license and has Stream at night, mainly because crossing the Great Bahama
spent dozens of nights offshore between Bank is too time-consuming to complete in daylight hours.
the Chesapeake Bay and the Bahamas. This is described in detail in the Southern and Bahama editions
of Waterway Guide.

56 WATERWAYGUIDE.COM

Sunset in Miami, anchored off of Key Biscayne

WATERWAY EXPLORER 2020 57

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58 WATERWAYGUIDE.COM

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WATERWAY EXPLORER 2020 59

FEATURES

“YoUnuderstnandging

Cruisers”
Young Cruiser
/yəNG kroozər/
Noun
1. Individuals who have existed for only
a short time and have decided to live on a boat
or are cruising full-time before retirement.

W hat do you think the average age is for cruisers and liveaboards? 40? 50? My husband and I have been
60? It’s getting harder to judge so I put together a quick survey to get a cruising for four years now and also
better idea. This survey is by no means a cumulative total of boaters, but work full-time, completely remote.
it helps us all get a better idea. I’ll get to the results shortly. We’re by no means retired, which
After learning how to sail at 28 years old and then dreaming, planning and learning makes it tough to move around but
even more, I moved aboard full-time at 29 years old. In my opinion, I was late to allows us to keep our careers while
boating because so many people grow up learning with their family and friends. we adventure from Michigan to
Now that I’m living abroad and traveling full-time, I’ve learned that I am actually the Bahamas. We envy those with
considered a “young cruiser.” the freedom to enjoy an entire
60 WATERWAYGUIDE.COM day of sailing, island hopping and
sundowners, but it’s great to have
options and to be able to afford them!

In more and more ports and
harbors, we are meeting young,
like-minded individuals who have left
their land homes to live and travel
via boat. We’re excited to meet most
anyone along our travels but being
able to interact with others close to our
age has been exceptional. But young
cruisers (including us) are raising
questions and eyebrows of both land
lubbers and other boaters.

The Big Question: How Are
Young Cruisers Affording It?

I mentioned that I compiled a quick
survey to determine the median age for
cruisers and liveaboards. Aside from
the obvious age question, I asked what
line of work respondents are in and if
they are still working. The majority of
the 100 boaters surveyed mentioned

that they are working part-time to full- subjects of every kind. My personal but there are paid options. I personally
time while living on a boat. Half of favorite way to share our travels aboard recommend the $50/year membership
those boaters still working mentioned S/V Tipsy Gypsy is on Instagram. for the awesome perks and the
that although they are trying to get The point is that information is readily interactive app launching this year.
on the water as often as possible, they available for everyone and helps promote They also have great swag and the
are not actually cruising full-time yet. interest in boating more than in the past. burgee is really cool. My husband and I
Under 25 percent of boaters surveyed joined the association and are excited to
consider themselves retired and cruising The way we send and receive see more young cruisers involved.
full-time. Under information is also evolving. Snail mail
5 percent responded that they are setting has developed into emails with pictures, Are You a Young Cruiser?
themselves up to take an extended break while blogs are filled with personal
and travel full-time. (And in case you are anecdotes and stories. Social media The average age for boaters who took
curious, no one responded that they are allows constant sharing, and YouTube the survey I mentioned before was
independently wealthy.) channels give people the opportunity 51 years old. A young cruiser could
to share videos of everyday life as a be considered as someone under the
The typical answer for younger full-time boater. While there used to average age, but I believe the age is
cruisers showed they are taking work be only a couple of sailing channels somewhat relative. And in the end
alongside their travels on a part-time to that interested audiences, now there does it really matter? We’re all young
full-time status. This is also typical of are different kinds of boats that you adventurers at heart, right? H
most of the young cruisers we’ve met in may want to “follow,” personalities you
real life. Some are taking sabbaticals, but prefer to “like” and best practices you If you haven’t already done so,
many are figuring out how to work along may want to “share.” It’s fascinating and I encourage you to take our very
the way either through passive income or another way young cruisers have become short survey in regards to boating
working remotely. more prominent in the boating industry. to help us improve our data. Go to
maryandtharon.com/boat-survey.
Young Cruiser Networks Young Cruisers Association
(www.youngcruisers.org) To get a better idea of how young
The popularity of cruising has cruisers are paying for this lifestyle,
become more widespread due to There are many organizations and refer to the article “PEW: Passively
the increasing number of people associations involved with the boating Getting Income, Earning Money While
joining social networks and sharing world, including one dedicated to young Underway, and Working Remotely” also
real-life experiences in real time. cruisers. They host meetups, offer perks written by Waterway Guide Cruising
There are hundreds of sailing channels and pride themselves as salty vagabonds Editor Mary Rodriguez (shown in photo
on YouTube, countless groups and fan from around the world who have decided at left). Give it a read if you plan to
pages on Facebook, and a number of to get out and live life before retirement. keep working while cruising.
blogs that share information about What’s not to love? Membership is free,

WATERWAY EXPLORER 2020 61

Another Edition in our

Includes complimentary
Franko Maps Florida Keys
Adventure & Dive Map

Wildlife
Exploring Safely

Boat Ramps

Snorkeling & Diving
Hot Spots
The Right Gear
Kayaking & Paddleboarding
Tips & Regulations
Where to Paddle

All the coverage you expect from

THE
CRUISING
AUTHORITY

Waterway Guide Family

Sportfishing
Tackle & Gear
Fishing ID Charts & Regulations
Hiking, Biking & Birding

Trail Map
Tour Companies

Order online at waterwayguide.com/shipstore or call
our Book Sales department at 804-776-8999 Ext. 1.

FEATURES

A Special Force Endures:

The U.S. Coast
Guard Auxiliary

Waterway Guide Media’s publisher, Jeff Jones, and editor-in-chief, Ed Tillett, attended the United States Coast Guard Auxiliary’s National
Convention in 2019 in Orlando, FL, and came away with a newfound understanding of the organization’s goals and significance of its work.
While at the convention we spent time with Auxiliary leadership and forged a partnership intended to advance our company’s dedication
to, and the Auxiliary’s mission of, promoting safe boating. Through this shared vision and effort we are working together on targeted
communications, access to training materials and other assets. The breadth and depth of the USCG Auxiliary mission and its importance to
boaters and communities across the U.S. is worth exploring as the organization enters its 81st year.
64 WATERWAYGUIDE.COM

What started in 1939 as
a response to threats
from events unfolding
in Europe has persevered as
an integral component of the
U.S. Coast Guard, the nation’s
maritime first responder. This is
a unique and compelling story of
volunteerism, citizen soldiers and
commitment carried out today by
over 26,000 men and women of
the USCG Auxiliary.
Auxiliarists are a force
U.S. merchant ship aflame after being torpedoed by a German submarine off the American Coast, 1941-1945.
multiplier for active duty USCG Courtesy Coast Guard Historian’s Office.
personnel. We’ve seen them in
their vessels, waved at them while underway and invited are conducted. As the uniformed volunteer branch of the
them aboard for courtesy inspections for that coveted sticker Coast Guard, members train to USCG standards and serve
that says, “My boat is squared away.” They give their time, in every mission except law enforcement. These efforts
represent immeasurable savings to U.S. taxpayers.”
talents and resources to promote and improve recreational The years leading up to WWII were a different time
boating safety (RBS) and support Coast Guard operational,
administrative and logistical requirements. But what else are for this country and the world. The Nazi U-Boat threat
Auxiliarists working toward? along the Atlantic Coast was real and the Coast Guard’s
Commandant saw war on the horizon. He knew the active
Here are some numbers provided by Vincent Pica, duty component needed expanding, so in September
a Commodore from the First District, Southern Region
(D1SR), USCG Auxiliary. He said, “We don’t get paid. 1939 Congress passed the Coast Guard Reserve Act.
Every hour we do something that active duty can do we free The result was that over 50,000 Auxiliary members served
up their time and resources for other missions. Every day in the Volunteer Reserve during WWII. That tradition
continues today with trained volunteers serving alongside
over 10,800 hours are logged by Auxiliary volunteers military personnel.
performing on-water boating safety patrol, while 11
distressed boaters are saved and 548 vessel safety checks

Adm. Russell R. Waesche (center), commandant of the Coast Guard during WWII, who was instrumental in establishing the Auxiliary.
Courtesy Coast Guard Historian’s Office.

WATERWAY EXPLORER 2020 65

The USCG Auxiliary cannot undertake any action that From the mid-1990s to the present the operational tempo of
requires a weapon or law enforcement authority. However, seven the USCG has increased dramatically due to drug enforcement,
of the eleven congressionally mandated tasks of the USCG can security and associated tasks. The USCG continues to depend
be performed, which frees active duty to pursue higher content on the work of the Auxiliary with 26,000 volunteers supporting
tasks. Auxiliary conducts search and rescue, maritime and 56,000+ active, reserve and civilian personnel across all approved
aviation observation missions, non-regulatory vessel examinations areas of responsibility.
and boating safety education, among others. Pica said that attracting new volunteers to the Auxiliary is
Pica explained, “Auxiliary patrols including air and sea, and vital to the effectiveness of the USCG. “Many of us have an
often with active duty USCG aboard, saves the Coast Guard urge to serve. Whatever you may call it, there are forces at work
important fuel budget resources, as well as increasing the number aimed at destroying our way of life. The opportunity for me
of 'eyes on' than otherwise possible. We also put cooks on is that I can serve the United States on my own terms. I get to
USCG ships, which frees up active duty personnel to conduct contribute to the effectiveness of the USCG’s missions and from
other important tasks, and assist We’ve been described that I enjoy personal growth. My sense
in our private sector areas of of satisfaction is real. Auxiliarists don’t
expertise when needed.” need to be boaters. There are 16
The Auxiliary has evolved as the minutemen of categories of duties.”
with membership and As one of eight uniformed services
participation adjusting to the the USCG conducts on an average
times. When asked what the the 21st century... day 45 search and rescue missions,
greatest challenges are today for saves 10 lives, seizes over 800 pounds
the Auxiliary, Pica said, “ We’ve of illegal drugs, investigates 35
been described as the minutemen pollution incidents and facilitates the
of the 21st century. That’s a hard task to live up to for young movement of $8.7B worth of goods and commodities. In many
persons who have other duties versus older personnel who have instances, Auxiliarists are alongside their active duty counterparts
more discretionary options. We are adapting our tasking to make performing their role as defined in the organization’s mission
it easier for younger members to feel that their efforts are worthy. statement as, “The best trained most valued maritime volunteer
I came into the Auxiliary following the September 11, 2001 organization in the world – highly effective during normal
attacks. As we move away from 9/11 some patriotic motivation operations and ready for emergencies.” H
has waned. Our leadership is always focused on retention
and recruitment.”

Coast Guard Reserve vessels en route to Tennessee River Dams to conduct security patrols. When initially
established in 1939, the Auxiliary was identified by Congress as the United States Coast Guard Reserve
(CGR). On February 19, 1941, the organization was re-designated as the United States Coast Guard Auxiliary.
Photo courtesy St. Louis History Division, National Department of Public Affairs, U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary.

66 WATERWAYGUIDE.COM

Renowned news anchor Walter Cronkite accepting post as Honorary National Commodore Interesting Facts
of the Auxiliary in 1977. An avid sailor, he joined Waterway Guide the following year as
Editorial Consultant and remained with the company for 18 years. • The number one cause of boating
accidents is alcohol.
Waterway Guide Media has joined with the Coast Guard Auxiliary
Association to provide financial support in support of the • D rowning from a boating accident is
Association’s goals. AuxA was formed in 1957 and is a national caused by not wearing a lifejacket.
nonprofit organization established to support Coast Guard Auxiliary When 16 people go overboard with
activities. AuxA conducts fiscal and business management a lifejacket on, 15 come out alive.
responsibilities including capital programs, partnerships and When 16 go overboard without a
donations that enable America’s Volunteer Lifesavers to accomplish lifejacket, 15 die.
their primary mission responsibility: recreational boating safety.
• Your paddlecraft (SUP, canoe or kayak)
should have a label on it,“If Found
Call ______.” Because if it floats
away from a dock unattended during
high wind or water, unnecessary
search and rescue might be initiated.
The call number will assist in confirming
the owner’s status.

•T raining requirements for Auxiliarists
include 10 to 11 courses every 5 years.

• U SCG personnel and Auxiliarists operate
under the Department of Homeland
Security during peacetime but may be
transferred to the U.S. Navy if necessary.

WATERWAY EXPLORER 2020 67

EXPLORE

THE HEART OF CHARM CITY

Lighthouse Point

BaltimoreLighthousePointMarina.com

Lighthouse Point is a must stop destination for the best food, shopping,
and activities in town. Located in Canton, we give you access to one of

Baltimore’s most prominent neighborhoods in the downtown area.

Services vessels up to 300ft.
500 boats slips available
Restaurants and Pool Bar

Inner Harbor Marina
BaltimoreInnerHarborMarina.com

Located across from the National Aquarium and minutes from
Camden Yards, there are a plethora of activities surrounding our

marina. Inner Harbor Marina is walking distance to popular
attractions, and amazing food.
Services vessels up to 300ft.
High Speed Diesel Fuel

Restaurants, Shopping, and Museums

Inner Harbor WEST Marina

This is an exclusive marina that o ers annual and seasonal slips for rent,
with great amenities including a pool and fitness center.

Book Now with

Inner Harbor Marina Lighthouse Point

Inner Harbor West Marina

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68 WATERWAYGUIDE.COM

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WATERWAY EXPLORER 2020 69

DESTINATIONS

Cruising Adventure:

1. BIMINI W hat cruiser doesn’t enjoy the sense of
accomplishment that comes from crossing their
2. B ERRY  9. T HE   own wake? Cruisers love loops. It’s an efficient
ISLANDS ABACO  way to see the most stuff and adds gravitas to your itinerary.
When cruising various parts of the ICW and the East Coast,
CAYS there are all sorts of loops. There’s the Down East Loop
and the Albemarle Loop. You can loop your way around
3. N ASSAU Chesapeake Bay or try the Triangle Loop in New York.
And, of course, there is the ultimate loop: The Great Loop.
8. ELEUTHERA
Great Loopers will often add The Bahamas as a
destination along the way. But I propose a more radical
plan: a Bahamas Loop.

When my wife Lucy and I first headed to The Bahamas
on our sailboat, we heard so many great things about so
many places that we wanted to see it all. (Foreshadowing:
We still haven’t succeeded!) Applying our time-tested looping
strategy, we plotted a route to cover a lot of ground in a
limited amount of time. We hit all of the major cruising
spots, and we didn’t have to backtrack even once.

Like any big trip, you’ll need a timeline. We completed
this itinerary between January and June. If you want to
make the entire loop as described below, plan on at least
four to six months of leisurely cruising. If you have less time,
reduce destinations. Each region in The Bahamas is unique,
with slightly different landscapes and slightly different
vibes. The Bahamas Loop is the perfect introduction to the
flavors of each island.

4.  E XUMA 
CAYS

7. C AT 
ISLAND

5. G EORGE 
TOWN

6. L ONG 
ISLAND

70 WATERWAYGUIDE.COM

The Bahamas Loop

1. BIMINI 4. EXUMA CAYS

Bimini is only about 50 miles east of Miami, so it makes a The water in the Exumas is the stuff of postcards.
natural landfall point. The first boom came to Bimini with the “Gin-clear” barely describes it. You can drop your anchor in
arrival of bootleggers in the 1920s, and the fishing was made 20 feet of water and watch the sand settle around it as if
famous by Ernest Hemingway. Today, new resorts and casinos looking through glass. It’s very likely that if you keep watching
are popping up, and the island is experiencing another boom. it settle to the bottom, then you’ll see a nurse shark or sea turtle
If the weather is calm, there are some great snorkeling sites and swim over to check it out. Headed south, you’ll want to plan
beaches to explore. We find the anchorage options a bit limited time to explore the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. There are
around Bimini, so we prefer the marinas here, especially for our no services here...no groceries, fuel, docks and even the cell
initial check-in. service is spotty. But it’s an absolute paradise. You’ve likely
heard of other noteworthy spots in the Exumas such as Staniel
2. BERRY ISLANDS Cay, Black Point and Little Farmers. All are small-town Family
Islands that many cruisers return to year after year. In between,
The Berries don’t appear on many itineraries, which is precisely you will find miles and miles of sandbars, pristine beaches and
why we made it a point to check them out. This quiet chain of crystal-clear water.
islands has some of the most beautiful beaches that we’ve found
anywhere in the islands. Many of these islands are privately 5. GEORGE TOWN
owned by individuals or cruise ship companies. The waters in
between are gorgeous and Great Harbour Cay is a beautiful Before my first visit to George Town, I had heard stories
stopover. Don’t miss hiking to the blue hole on Hoffmans Cay about the poker games, beach volleyball, the Chat ‘n Chill
or visiting Flo’s for some island grub! and the various other nightly happy hours. So I was surprised
to discover quiet anchorages, secluded beaches, hiking trails,
3. NASSAU snorkeling and dolphins. George Town is also a great base for
exploring the southern Bahamas. Places like the Jumento Cays
After so many days away from civilization, brace for some have few protected anchorages or marinas, but you can base
culture shock upon arrival at Nassau. Once dubbed the out of George Town and hop back and forth when the weather
“Pirate’s Republic,” Nassau is no longer quite that rowdy. But it allows until you’re ready to head north.
is the biggest city The Bahamas has to offer, and it still hosts lots
of colonial history to explore. Inside Nassau Harbour, you’ll
find a plethora of marina choices. The harbor is protected to
the north by Paradise Island, which hosts the massive Atlantis
Resort and Casino.

WATERWAY EXPLORER 2020 71

6. LONG ISLAND Tragically, this is the part of The Bahamas that was
hit by Hurricane Dorian in 2019. The Category 5 storm
Two spots along the west coast of Long Island are came ashore at Elbow Cay with wind gusts over 200
strategically placed for exploring–Salt Pond and mph and more than 20 feet of storm surge, making it
Calabash Bay. Salt Pond, on the shores of Thompson tied for the strongest landfalling Atlantic hurricane on
Bay, is George Town on a micro-scale. The community record. Be sure to check waterwayguide.com for up-to-
boasts a lovely grocery, a well-stocked hardware date information on fuel, marinas and facilities here
store and Tiny’s Hurricane Hole, a beachside cruiser since the entire area is still in the process of rebuilding.
hangout on the shore of Thompson Bay. Calabash Bay,
on the north end of the island, is ringed by one of And there you have it. In one big loop, you can cover
the most beautiful beaches in The Bahamas, which is all the top cruising destinations in The Bahamas.
protected by coral reefs. Did you see it all and do it all? Not even close.
There are a lot of islands out there, and they’re just
7. CAT ISLAND waiting for your visit.

If you thought Long Island was relaxed, wait until you Side note: Travel through the islands is often
pull into tranquil and beautiful Cat Island. Spend a day limited by the weather, especially in the winter.
in New Bight and hike up The Bahama’s highest hill, Cold fronts blow through and make passages rough
Mount Alva, to the Hermitage. This tiny monastery and inlets impassible. You will occasionally wind up
was built by the famed Father Jerome, who toured The stuck somewhere, waiting on the weather to improve.
Bahamas building churches. Everyone does. But can you imagine a better place to
be “stuck?” I can’t. H
8. ELEUTHERA
Capt. Matt Claiborne is a Senior Cruising Editor
Long and skinny Eleuthera is a world-class getaway for the Bahamas edition of Waterway Guide.
destination. The most popular spot is Harbour Island. He and his wife, Lucy, live aboard a 38-foot Cabo
It’s located on the east coast and is a bit of a challenge Rico, Dulcinea, and winter in The Bahamas.
to get to by boat. Local pilots are available to help you He’s spent over a year in The Bahamas over the
navigate the treacherous reefs here. Headed north last four cruising seasons.
along the west coast, you’ll pass several settlements
that beg to be explored. Don’t miss Rock Sound, To read more about the Bahamas refer to the 2020
Governors Harbour, Hatchett Bay or Spanish Wells. Bahamas edition of Waterway Guide

9. THE ABACO CAYS

A day-long passage across deep water will bring you to
Little Harbour on the southern end of the Abaco Cays.
The Abacos are one of the world’s true cruising gems.
Many small outer cays, each with beautiful and unique
communities, amazing beaches and coral reefs, lie just
a few miles off of the central hub of Marsh Harbour
on Great Abaco Island. In between is the protected
Sea of Abaco, which is calm and welcoming in nearly
all conditions. You can island hop here to your heart’s
content, and everything is just a few hours sail away
from somewhere completely different.

72 WATERWAYGUIDE.COM



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519 Deagles Rd
Deltaville, VA 23043
Phone: (804) 776-6800
Fax: (804) 776-8835
[email protected]

On the beautiful deep waters of Fishing Bay at the mouth of the
Piankatank River, Fishing Bay Marina is located in Deltaville,
Virginia. The marina offers slip holders and transients a secure,
comfortable and amenity-filled facility, with easy access to

the Chesapeake Bay and the Piankatank River. It is nicely
sheltered by Stove Point Neck.

• Transient Slips accommodating • Olympic size swimming pool
vessels larger than 200ft. • Clean, air-conditioned bathhouses
• Laundry washer and dryer
• Approach/Dockside Depth: 18 / 15 ft. • Captain’s Lounge
• Tide Range: 1.5 ft. • Ice, Grills, and Bicycles
• Fuel Dock with ValvTect Marine Fuel – • FREE WiFi High-Speed Internet
• Courtesy Car
gas and diesel (including high-speed) • Horseshoe Pits & Volleyball Court
• Pump-out and water services • Close proximity to town
• Virginia Clean Marina
• Full service boatyard adjacent to our

marina: ChesapeakeBoatWorks.com

804-776-6800 • www.fishingbay.com

DESTINATIONS

Landing in Hampton,VA DPERSETFINERARTEIODN

Locals refer to Hampton, Virginia as “a city with an Hampton University Museum
old soul and a youthful enthusiasm.” This coastal
Virginia Preferred Destination welcomes visitors with We could spend an entire day exploring the oldest African
the most breathtaking span of historic attractions we American museum in the country, filled with more than
have ever seen–from the 400th-year commemoration of the 9,000 pieces, including African American, African and Native
1619 arrival of the first Africans to the “hidden figures” of American art and artifacts. The museum is located on the
NASA. Located in the middle of the Hampton Roads region campus of Hampton University (757-727-5308) and is an easy
and the heart of the Mid-Atlantic, Hampton is a worthy walk across a footbridge from Customs House Marina and the
destination of discovery. Downtown Hampton Public Piers.

Your First Landing

Two of our favorite landing pads for a stop-over are Hampton
Public Piers (757-727-1276) and Bluewater Yachting Center
(757-723-6774). Both are located up the Hampton River, a
short jaunt off the main Hampton Roads channels. You will
find deep, protected floating docks and stout piers. The public
piers host the Snowbird Rendezvous in October with special
rates and seminars for the nautical minded among us.
Call ahead for details.

Virginia Air and Space Center

Hampton rocketed to national attention with the film “Hidden
Figures,” which featured three African American women
who hand-calculated the complex equations that allowed the
successful launching of John Glenn into orbit. The Virginia Air
and Space Center is the official Visitor Center for Hampton’s
NASA Langley Research Center (600 Settlers Landing Rd.,
757-727-0900). Located a short walk from the Hampton Public
Piers and the Customs House Marina, it’s the only location
where visitors can see all four generations of NASA capsules
and is home to Apollo XII. Admission includes the 3-D IMAX
Theater. On your way out, stop by the Hampton Carousel next
door for a $1 whirl. The 1920 wooden carousel is a rare and
beautiful example of American folk art.

74 WATERWAYGUIDE.COM

NEW! Fort Monroe Delicious Dining Ample Events
Visitor And Education
Center Fantastic fresh fish to fuel your And speaking of snowbirds…Fall is an
explorations? Yes, please! We recommend excellent time to visit Hampton. One of
Given the Waterway Guide staff’s the Deadrise (757-788-7190) located in our favorite fall events is the Hampton
passion for history, we were happy to Old Point Comfort Marina at historic Fort Cup Regatta, North America’s oldest
hear about the new Fort Monroe Visitor Monroe National Monument. They offer continuously run hydroplane regatta,
and Education Center, which opened in fresh seafood and have deck seating which is held in September on Mill
late 2019. Exhibits related to Old Point with an unbeatable view of Hampton Creek and includes land activities such
Comfort and Fort Monroe are featured, Roads Harbor. Also not to be missed: as a children’s area, food vendors and
including the 1619 landing of the first the Surf Rider at Bluewater Yachting environmental exhibits. Another favorite
Africans in English North America and Center (757-723-9366); Venture Kitchen is the Crawlin’ Crab Half Marathon held
the 1861 Contraband Decision that & Bar (757-325-8868), with brick oven in October, which starts at Hampton
enabled people escaping enslavement to pizza and creative cocktails; and Bull Coliseum and winds its way through
find refuge at Fort Monroe. The nearby Island Brewing Co. (757-884-8884), downtown Hampton and along the
Casemate Museum houses 400 years of Hampton’s oldest (and only) waterfront harbor before finishing near the Hampton
military history. The museum is self- brewery, located adjacent to Downtown Coliseum with a Craft Beer Fest.
guided and free with tours available for Hampton Public Piers. In the summertime, we like to take in
a small fee (757-788-3391). If you’re the Bay Concert Series at Fort Monroe’s
anchored in Mill Creek, take the dinghy Continental Park, which runs most
or make the easy walk from Old Point Thursdays, June through August, and
Comfort Marina (757-788-4308). features free concerts by military bands.

Now that you know why Hampton
is a favorite Waterway Guide Preferred
Destination, check it out for yourself. H

To read more about the Hampton
area refer to the Chesapeake Bay
edition of Waterway Guide

WATERWAY EXPLORER 2020 75

Yes, you can have it all...only in Fort Lauderdale!

Las Olas Marina

Three Great Locations in One Great City! Cooley’s Landing
New River Downtown Docks
The. City ofFort Lauderdale's Las Olas Marina and New River Downtown Docks offer secure dockage and
ample power for all sizes including megayachts, while Cooley's Landing caters to vessels up to 50 feet.

LAS OLAS MARINA is located just two blocks from the City's world-famous guarded beaches, which
are lined with restaurants, hotels and clubs offering something for everyone. The only mooring field in
the City is also managed fromthe marina. TheSun Trolley connects marina patrons with all of Las Olas
Boulevard and other downtown stops including Port Everglades, the Broward Convention Center, the
Galleria Mall and the 17'" Street Causeway.

THE DOWNTOWN DOCKS are located on the New River in the heart of the City. Renowned
Las Olas Boulevard offers upscale shopping, boutiques, restaurants, galleries, and clubs that are just one
block away from the north side of the New River. Groceries are just two blocks away.

COOLEY'S LANDING is a quaint park tucked away in the City's historic Sailboat Bend District and
offers tree-lined walks along the New River to the Museum of Discovery and Science, restaurants, clubs,
and the Broward Center for the Performing Arts/Florida Grand Opera.

All of the City's marinas have very competitive rates and offer discounts for BoatU.S. and West Marine
Advantage Gold Card holders. Annual, seasonal, monthly and daily rates are available.

AMENITIES INCLUDE: • Showers City of Fort Lauderdale Marine Facilities
• Laundry 2 South New River Drive East
• Pumpout at all three locations • Security Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301
• Courteous and Prompt Staff
• • Florida Clean Marinas 954-828-5423 • VHF Channels 9 & 16
• Lounge www.fortlauderdale.gov/marinas
• BoatU.S Participating Marina [email protected]

Las Olas Marina • Levend Ekendiz, Dockmaster • 954-828-7200 I New River Downtown & Cooley's Landing • Matt Domke, Dockmaster • 954-828-5423

FUN FOR THE ENTIRE FAMILY

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============== RESORT AMENITIES ===============

NEW Fuel Dock • Fixed and Floating Slips 24-70FT • Newly Renovated Bathhouse

T. Lift Slips Available • Secured Access • Pool • Clubhouse • Playground/Picnic Areas

At-slip Pump Out • Repair Service • 10T Forklift, 30T & 40T Travel Lifts

=============================================

Bowleys Marina is an Affordable, Upscale Resort-Style,
Family-Friendly Marina located on Middle River Minutes from the Bay

410.335.3553 • BowleysMarina.com

SKIPPER Just a few blocks from
BOB the world famous
Daytona Beach!
PUBLICATIONS

ATLANTIC AND GULF ICW GUIDES

• Anchorages Along The Intracoastal Waterway

• Marinas Along The Intracoastal Waterway

• Cruising the Gulf Coast

CANAL AND INLAND RIVER GUIDES (386)756-2180

• Cruising the New York Canal System Gas and Diesel
• Cruising the Rideau and Richelieu Canals Waterfront Dining
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and North Channel AdventureYachtHarbor.com • MM #837

• Cruising From Chicago to Mobile

PLANNING GUIDES MarinasAlong the Intracoastal Waterway

• Cruising Comfortably On a Budget 21st Edition

• Cruising America's Great Loop

• Bahamas Bound

Published by (1) Champlain
WaterwayGuide.com (2) Erie
(3) Oswego
(4) Chenango
(5) Genesee
(6) Seneca
(7) Crooked Lake
(8) Dansville Branch
(9) Chemung
(10) Delaware & Hudson
(11) Cayuga
(12) Black River

The Oswego Canal (3) connected the Erie Canal at Syracuse with Oswego on Lake Ontario. Started
n 1819 and completed in 1829 this important branch of the Erie Canal was 38 miles long at that time

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see our interactive charts

MARINAS SERVICES ANCHORAGES FDROECEK BRIDGES LOCKS NAV ALERTS FUEL
FREE DOCK

waterwayguide.com

DESTINATIONS

Anglers Hooked on Martin County
Martin County encompasses the diverse waterways
surrounding Port Salerno, Stuart, Palm City, Jensen Saltwater Life List: Catch 70 different specified
Beach, Indiantown, Jupiter Island, Hobe Sound and species of saltwater fish (which would be impossible to
Hutchinson Island. It is home to 100 artificial reef systems and complete during a visit).
over 800 species of fish and is famous in the Florida fishing S altwater Grand Slam: Catch three specified
community. (They don’t call Stuart “Sailfish Capital of the fish species in a 24-hour period in one of nine
World” for nothing!) categories (e.g., blue water, reefs & rubble,
shoreline, bay & estuary).
The Martin County Office of Tourism and Marketing S altwater Reel Big Fish: Recognizes anglers for
has partnered with the Florida Fish Wildlife Conservation extraordinarily sized catches of 30 different specified
Commission (FWC) to reel in anglers with the Catch a Florida saltwater species. Examples include a 36-inch pompano
Memory program. This program recognizes saltwater anglers or a 45-inch cobia. Photo must include the fish, the
for their fishing skills and promotes the targeting of multiple angler and a qualifying measuring device.
species, decreasing fishing pressure on the most commonly See complete rules and submit a photo of you and your
sought-after species. Anglers of all ages and skills can earn catch at catchafloridamemory.com. FWC promotes responsible
prizes and bragging rights while supporting marine fisheries angling, including proper catch and release techniques.
conservation. Successful participants will also have a chance to Anglers do not have to harvest their fish to be eligible for the
win monthly raffle prizes, such as rods, reels, fish mounts, filet program and are, in fact, encouraged to release their catch
knives and landing nets. after documentation. H

To qualify, submit a photo of in one of the three
challenges. (Or successfully participate in all three to join the
Triple Threat Club.)

DPERSETFINERARTEIODN

To read more about Martin County refer to the 2020
Southern edition of Waterway Guide

Owen Kenney of Rio, FL, shows off his prize catch. Snook caught in Martin County waters can reach 40 pounds. Courtesy of Martin County.
78 WATERWAYGUIDE.COM

MUNICIPAL MARINA

Latitude 27N 46’ 12.36” Longitude 82W 37’ 47.38”

http://www.stpete.org/parks_and_recreation/marina/

Tampa BayIn beautiful When cruising the warm blue
waters of the Gulf of Mexico be
sure to chart your course into
Tampa Bay and our beautiful
Municipal Marina! Located on
the western side of Tampa Bay,
on the point of Demens Landing,
you will dock in the heart of St.
Petersburg’s beautiful downtown
waterfront district.

(727) 893-7329

or Toll Free at

1-800-782-8350

2018 St. Petersburg Municipal_7x4.875.indd 1 Subscription1/4/18 8:59PM

THE
CRUISING
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reports

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WATERWAY EXPLORER 2020 79

Northeastern Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence River:
prepared regardless of water levels. Raised docks, accessible

downtowns and scenic cruising.

It’s all here in the paradise known as the 1000 Islands.

#DedicatedtoBoating

ATHLE BIEFSTEDATYSILMASTE .

The Boat Club at Basin Harbor is an amazing
tradition, whether you stop for a bite or stay the

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LAT: 44*28’37.30 N LON: 73*13’21.42 W

Luxury Accommodations
River Views

Casual & Fine Dining
Outdoor Patios & Fire Pits
Indoor Pool with Hot Tub

Extraordinary Service

315.686.1100 1000IslandsHarborHotel.com
200 Riverside Drive, Clayton, New York 13624

Sail through history

Discover Parks Canada historic canals!
pc.gc.ca/canals

Naviguez à travers
l’histoire

Découvrez les canaux historiques de
Parcs Canada!
pc.gc.ca/canaux

Sail through history

Discover Parks Canada historic canals!
pc.gc.ca/canals

Naviguez à travers

10733 N. Bay Shore Drive
Sister Bay, WI 54234

With its small town charm and big city happenings, Sister Bay and the Sister
Bay Marina pride themselves as the destination of choice for the Door County
Peninsula. One visit and you will understand why this is not your ordinary
drive through town. Likewise a one night stay at the marina is simply not
enough time to enjoy all the offerings of this tasteful and trendy destination.

With a sprawling 150 slip marina, boat rentals, sail tours and the finest
customer service on the Great Lakes, the staff will go above and beyond any
expectations you may have to make your stay most memorable. The marina
offers 40 transient slips comfortably accommodating up to an 80 foot boat,
with newly remodeled bath and shower rooms, laundry, WIFI, gas grills and
an epic sunset. Just steps from your dock, marina guests will enjoy legendary
restaurants, beautiful parks and landscape along with a plethora and variety of
stores for the ultimate shopping experience. If we still haven’t convinced you
that Sister Bay and the Sister Bay Marina is the destination of Door County, let
us entice you with one of our many festivals and big events.

920-854-4457 • [email protected]

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DESTINATIONS

Exploring

the St. Lawrence River

Bang! Splash! Crash! It’s never good to be awakened by It felt like Newfoundland was testing us. Perhaps it
hitting the ceiling of your cabin berth… wanted to see if we were worthy to make landfall on this
I quickly struggled out of bed and made my way remote island province. It took another 6 hours to travel the
to the companionway. My stalwart partner and spouse remaining 15 miles, but we eventually made it. And so ended
was struggling with the helm as yet another frothy wave our journey down one of the world’s great waterways–the
crashed over us. St. Lawrence River.

“Everything OK?” I somewhat foolishly asked/yelled. From its headwaters at the eastern edge of Lake Ontario,
“Yes! Perfectly fine! Go back to bed,” hollered Ann through down to the expanse of the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the
gritted teeth. Needless to say, all was not fine. Atlantic Ocean, the river runs a length of nearly 650 nautical
miles (approximately 1,200 km or 750 statute miles). It passes by
We had just sailed 40 hours across the Gulf of St. some of North America’s most historic communities and busiest
Lawrence and were within sight of Newfoundland’s western waterways. There are tides that can reach 20 feet in places, as
shore. But a major front that was supposed to be 12 hours well as very fast and shifting tidal currents, all of which demand
away had sped up and caught us, and we were in for a careful planning and constant awareness.
very rough ride.
84 WATERWAYGUIDE.COM

It is not a journey to be taken lightly, or
quickly. This is why relatively few boaters
choose this route when traveling to (or from)
the Atlantic. But for those with the time and the
desire to travel a little off the beaten path, the St.
Lawrence loudly beckons.

We left Lake Ontario in early summer in
2017, riding a higher-than-normal downstream
current that added 1 to 3 knots to our typical
slow cruising speed. We quickly passed
through the Thousand Islands area, sailing
by the many smaller historic communities of
Ontario and New York State that straddle the
slowly widening river.

The commercial traffic in this section of
the river can be challenging, especially in the
approaches to the locks. There are seven large
locks between Lake Ontario and Montréal, which
help create the St. Lawrence Seaway, one of the
busiest shipping routes in the world. These locks
lower/raise a vessel approximately 240 feet from
the height of Lake Ontario to sea level.

Five of the locks are
located in Canada,
while two are in the
U.S. The Canadian
locks provide long
lines tied to dock
cleats, while the two
American locks use a floating bollard system. The lock
staff are very helpful and accommodating. If you purchase
your lock tickets ahead of time over the Internet, you’ll
save money ($5 off per lock) and avoid the hassle of
buying lock tickets on site.
Montréal is the first major city along this route. It is
well worth a stop but beware of the ferocious currents
as you exit the last lock. Boats with small engines (like
ours) will find the approaches challenging. As it was, we
bypassed the city in favor of a slightly more secluded
anchorage not far downstream.
From here, the river continues to widen and begins to
take on a slightly wilder, more remote feeling. We sailed
past the small Québec city of Sorel-Tracy, which sits at the
confluence of the St. Lawrence and Richelieu Rivers and
is detailed in the Triangle Loop section of Waterway Guide’s
Great Lakes edition.
A short hop from Sorel took us to the city of Trois-
Rivières and the beginning of tides and tidal currents.
As Great Lakes sailors, we had little experience dealing
with these things called tides. So we anchored up a branch
of the Saint-Maurice River (the three branches are the
“trois” part of the city’s name) and took a few days to re-
learn how to read tide tables and to plan our next steps.
This section of the river is dominated by large tides of
up to 20 feet and the related tidal currents that can run
WATERWAY EXPLORER 2020 85

to nearly 10 knots in places. We quickly no dock to be had. We sailed past, taking Maritimes or further south will want to
learned there was no point fighting in the incredible sights of this ancient follow the south shore.
Mother Nature with our sails or little city from the water and enjoying the
auxiliary engine. We had to time our nearly 40 tall ships docked all around. After a side trip exploring parts of
hops to ride the wave down on the the Saguenay Ffjord, which is famous
ebb tide, and then make sure we could As the river passes Québec, it begins for incredible vistas and beluga whales,
stop once it turned back towards us to widen dramatically. By the time you we continued downstream to the port
in the flood tide. reach the Saguenay River, it stretches of Baie-Comeau and then Sept-Îles.
over 12 nautical miles across. From here, From there we sailed overnight under
Québec City is one of those most boaters choose to follow one side a full display of the northern lights,
iconic places to visit along this route. or the other. We chose to travel the stopping in Mingan National Park north
Unfortunately, our arrival coincided with north shore as our final destination was of Anticosti Island. Mingan features
a festival of tall ships, meaning there was Newfoundland. Those heading to the shoreline monoliths reminiscent of
the Bay of Fundy, plus a puffin colony
and plenty of whales, dolphins, seals
and other wildlife.

From Mingan we pointed our
bow southeast and spent the next 46
hours sailing across the Gulf of St.
Lawrence towards Corner Brook, NL.
As mentioned at the start, the first 40
hours were glorious…but we made it. H
Michael OReilly has been messing
around with boats in remote areas
of Canada for most of his life.
Progressing from canoes and kayaks, he
now spends his days living and cruising
the Great Lakes, the St. Lawrence River,
and Newfoundland. While most of his
articles have been in the sciences, he’s
now spending more time writing about
the cruising life, and the places he visits.

To read more about the
St. Lawrence River refer to the
2020 Great Lakes Vol. 1 edition
of Waterway Guide

86 WATERWAYGUIDE.COM

Nearby & On-Site Attractions: COMPLETE MARINE FACILITIES

• Historic City of Cape May Located in Cape May Harbor on the south side of the Cape May Canal,
• MAC for the Arts we are a 300 slip, family owned & operated marina. Since 1951, an Utsch
• Cape May Point Lighthouse family member is always on hand to greet you. Ernie III or Charles and
• Charter Boat Fleet staff will do their best to make your stay a memorable experience.
• Cape May Whale Watch & Research
Center WE MONITOR CHANNEL 16 VHF
• East Coast Parasailing–Jet Boat–Jet Discounts Available for Volume Fuel Purchases
Skis
• Adjacent to Lobster House UTSCH’S MARINA
Restaurant
SHIP’S STORE–BAIT & TACKLE SHOP
•Bait & Tackle Shop BROKERAGE–STORAGE–SERVICE & REPAIRS
•Ship’s Store
•Transient & Seasonal Slips (609) 884-2051
• Deluxe Showers, Restrooms &
Lounges www.capemayharbor.com
• Laundry Facilities [email protected]
• Wireless Internet Access
• Picnic tables & Gazebos LOCATED BETWEEN CANAL AND SCHELLENGER’S LANDING
• Bike Rentals
• 25 & 55 ton open end Travel lifts
• Engine Franchises:

Atlantic Highlands Atlantic Highlands is a small
MUNICIPAL HARBOR Victorian town on the New
732-291-1670 • ahnj.com/ahnj/Harbor/ Jersey shore overlooking
lower New York Bay, with
Manhattan in the distance.
Its hills include the highest
point on the eastern seaboard
south of Maine. Come see why
we are a favorite destination
for cruising boaters, where
everything you need is just
steps from your stern.

• Fine Dining and Boutique Shops
• Transient Slips Available
• Fixed and Floating Docks to 140 ft.
• 480 Slips and 172 Moorings
• Gas and Diesel Fuel
• Clean Restrooms and Showers
• 24-Hour Security, Friendly Staff
• Easy Access to the Hudson Trail
• Basketball Courts and Tennis Courts

2017 Atlantic Highlands_7x4.875.indd 1 11/15/17 12:15 PM

88 WATERWAYGUIDE.COM

Full service yard for yacht storage, • Heated Pool • Courtesy Cars • Free Wi-Fi
maintenance, repairs, dockage & moorings • Cable TV • 10 minutes to Downtown Portsmouth
• Concierge Services • Gift Shop • Ice & Bait • Night Security
H Easily accessible from the Cape Cod Canal • Heads/Showers/Laundry • Tennis Courts • Launch Service
H Launch Service H Shower Facilities
• Accommodations for Vessels 200 ft plus
H Full Marine Store H Gas & Diesel H Ice • ValvTect Marine Fuel • Fuel-Volume Discounts
H Sunset Dining Nearby
• Power up to 100 amp-Single & Triple Phase
H Seasonal and Transient Moorings H • Pumpout Station & Boat • Wet Winter Storage
and Slips Available

68 Red Brook Harbor Road
Cataumet, MA 02534

508.563.9366 H VHF Channel 69
www.parkersboatyard.com

The PorT of New Bedford

...a perfect mix of history and vibrant cultures

www.PoPeIslaNdMarINa.coM
(508) 979-1456

6Marinas Services Anchorages Bridges & Locks Nav Alerts Fuel modes
Waterway Explorer has
different modes that overlay Marinas
Services
on the base maps Anchorages & Free Docks
Bridges & Locks
Nav Alerts
Fuel - Diesel
Fuel - Gas

Fuel pumps WATERWAY EXPLORER 2020 89
and prices
for gas and
diesel

Plan your time on the water with Explorer

DESTINATIONS

Daytrips Around
Buzzards Bay

1. Cuttyhunk (21 miles SW)

Cuttyhunk Island is a place to do a whole lot of nothing. Situated at the very end of the Elizabeth
Island chain, about 20 miles south west of Red Brook Harbor and 12 miles south of New Bedford,
Cuttyhunk is a favorite destination for fishing and relaxing. There is a small beach, a great
harbor, good fishing, a few dozen houses, some great ice cream (!) and many beautiful hiking
trails. Cuttyhunk does not have discos, bars, malls, a singles scene, a party life, video games,
parking lots, traffic or much action. What Cuttyhunk does have is a quiet, isolated, beautiful
ocean environment, perfect for getting in touch with yourself and your family, or just catching up
with your reading!

2. Hadley Harbor (13 miles SSW)
Hadley Harbor is located on the western entrance to Woods Hole Passage. It is regarded

by many as one of the most picturesque, serene, and well-protected harbors 10

in southern New England. Many cruising sailors make a point to stop for
the night at Hadley. (It’s that nice.) It’s also a place where sailors can

stop for a few hours while they wait for favorable currents in the 5 5 Onset
channel for Woods Hole. The harbor is ringed with islands: Bull,
Uncatena and Naushon. All are owned by the Forbes family, Marion Marion

which has kept the area pristine and beautiful. There is an
island to walk on (Bull), and a never-ending parade of

boats coming through the anchorage. Drop a hook 99
MattapoiseMttattapoisett
in the outer harbor (space is limited inside) and

take a dinghy to explore the backwaters of 7 7
this quintessential New England harbor. New Bedford

New Bedford 6

Black Beach

4

Bay 2 Quiss2ett
Hadley HarHbaodrley HaHrbaorbr or

Buzzards und

1 1 Vineyard So
CuttyhunkCuttyhunk

90 WATERWAYGUIDE.COM

3. The Cape Cod Canal (5 miles N) 8 8

The widest canal in the world is worth visPitrinogvbiny claentdown
or sea. The canal is approximately 7 miles long and Provincetown
follows tidal rivers that were widened and deepened Cap

into a ship channel. Service roads on both sides of

the canal provide access for fishing, skating, walking e Cod Bay

and biking. Several parking areas are maintained at
access points. People often just sit and watch ships

and boats transiting the canal. The Cape Cod Canal

Visitor Center at the east end of the canal introduces

visitors to the history, features and operation of the 4. Quisett Harbor(12 miles SSW)
canal. Features include a retired 41-foot U.S. Army Corps
of Engineers patrol boat, a 46-seat theater showing The last harbor to port as you approach the Buzzards
continuous DVD presentations on canal history, diverse Bay entrance to Woods Hole Passage looks as if
flora and fauna, real-time radar and camera images you had painted an image of the ideal New England
of the waterway, as well as a variety of interactive harbor from your imagination. A pastoral setting is
exhibits. The Visitor Center is open seasonally from bordered by tall hills, beautiful homes and teaming
May to October. Admission is free. It is located on with pleasure boats. Quissett Harbor offers a calm
Moffitt Drive in Sandwich and is accessible by boat from anchorage to the right of the channel as you enter the
the Sandwich Marina. harbor. Further in there’s little room to anchor, but
private moorings are available to rent from Quissett

Harbor Boatyard (508-548-0506 or VHF Channel 09).

The Boatyard also maintains a dock for short visits,

3 as well as a dinghy tie-up area. Once ashore take a
short, easy hike to The Knob, which offers magnificent

Cape Cod COannaslet views of Quissett Harbor and Buzzards Bay. The Knob
is open to the public from dawn to dusk for bird
watching, strolling, beachcombing and swimming.

There are no restaurants in Quissett, so you will have

to be creative in your own galley.

5. Marion (5 miles W)

If a variety of restaurants and quaint shops suits
your mood, then a short boat ride to Marion on
Sippican Harbor will be just the thing. A quiet,
seaside community loaded with historical charm and
nautical tradition, Marion offers easy access to town
for visiting boaters. The venerable Beverly Yacht Club
has a prime location and guest moorings for visiting
yachtsmen with reciprocal privileges. Their dinghy
dock is a perfect spot for coming ashore to pretty and
quiet Marion. Stroll the leafy streets, take in a play
at the Marion Art Center, or sample local fare at any
of the restaurants located within walking distance of
the harbor. In the village you’ll also find the Marion
General Store, museums and interesting shops.
Marion is perhaps most famous among boaters as
the site of the Marion Bermuda Race, the Buzzards
Bay Regatta, multiple single class championships
and various other sailing events. Other smaller
regattas and fun events bring this waterfront to
life all summer long.

WATERWAY EXPLORER 2020 91

6. B lack Beach (7 miles SSW) 8. Provincetown (37 miles NE)

One of our favorite boating beach destinations, If sightseeing, people watching, shopping and good
Black Beach sits at the mouth of Great Sippewisset food are on the agenda, head for the most visited town
Creek, just south of West Falmouth Harbor, and on Cape Cod. Provincetown is billed as the oldest art
offers a unique beach experience. Drop the hook colony in America and a day trip to its safe, deep-water
right off the beach when the wind is not blowing harbor is a must for art lovers. Stroll Commercial
hard out of the southwest and wade ashore to find St. and experience the town’s beautiful gardens and
powdered-sugar sand and intriguing tidal pools and houses. Plenty of cool boutiques, restaurants and
rock formations. Best of all, you can wade or float galleries give this town a fun and funky vibe. It’s an
into the huge marshland behind the beach, where exceptionally LGBT-friendly destination as well.
you’ll find literally miles of tributary streams and When it’s time to escape the hustle and bustle of
an ecosystem unlike any you may have experienced downtown, head to the beach. Almost three-quarters
before. Migratory shorebirds, fish, crabs and a of Provincetown is preserved in its wilderness state
variety of marsh grasses are all there–up close as part of the Cape Cod National Seashore Park.
and personal. Take care on your approach by boat The Park provides visitors access to magnificent ocean
from the north to note the private marker that beaches, nature bike and walking trails and exhibits.
indicates Great Sippewisset Rock about 0.25 mile Moorings and slips are available via the two marinas
northwest of the beach. (Flyers and Provincetown Marina) along with launch
service and dinghy docks. Be sure to call ahead for
7. New Bedford (14 miles WSW) reservations. Transient boaters can also anchor inside
the protected arm of Long Point, where they’ll find
The world’s most famous whaling era seaport and the good holding ground.
number one fishing port in America is just a short boat
ride away. New Bedford’s working waterfront is home 9. Mattapoisett (8 miles WSW)
to fishing vessels, cruise ships, ferries, water taxis,
excursion boats and all kinds of recreational boating. Mattapoisett provides a bit of a Nantucket feel, with
There is so much to see and do, from visiting the its narrow streets, white picket fences, beautiful
world’s largest whaling museum to eating the world’s gardens and weathered shingled homes. This little
freshest seafood. (Be sure to try their famous scallops!) town boasts a large, natural harbor and features a
Attractions, galleries, restaurants, pubs and shops are series of grand stone wharves dating back to the 1800s
all within walking distance of the harbor. Dinghy docks with pump-out service, visitor tie-up and a dinghy
are at Coast Guard Park. Launch services from
the mooring fields will take you to the Waterfront
Visitors’ Center in the charming Wharfinger Building.
New Bedford is an impressive place to visit by water
and was named one of the Top 50 Ports in America by
Yachting magazine.

92 WATERWAYGUIDE.COM

dock. Mattapoisett is peppered with Victorian ship To read more about Buzzards Bay
captains’ homes and is centered on a well-groomed refer to the 2020 Northern edition
waterfront park where concerts, dances and other of Waterway Guide
events are held throughout summer. Just across the
street from the harbor is the Inn at Shipyard Park, inns, cafes, ice cream shops, antiques and a beautiful
a good place for a drink or some good food. A short beach that draws thousands of visitors every day
walk will bring you to the commercial center of town, during the summer. It’s also a favorite lunchtime
home to Panino’s restaurant, a great spot for breakfast, destination for Kingman boaters who enjoy the
lunch and prepared meals to take with you on the Victorian charm and low-key. Take a sharp left out
boat, plus a variety of shops. This is a perfect day trip of the Cape Cod Canal channel just after Hog Island
from Red Brook Harbor. It won’t take long to discover and follow the channel to the town pier where you can
why “Mattapoisett” means “the resting place” in the tie up for a nominal fee. From there it’s a short walk
language of the Wampanoag Indians. across the waterfront park to Mark Anthony’s for some
of the best pizza and cheese steak subs around. H
10. Onset (4 miles N)
Article compliments of Kingman Yacht Center
Onset is a historic Victorian waterfront community
built in the 1800s as a self-sufficient resort community. WATERWAY EXPLORER 2020 93
Most of the original storefronts and gingerbread
cottages remain, allowing it to retain the Victorian
charm of that era. Onset is a thriving summer resort
with a downtown village shopping area, restaurants,

Family owned for 150 years
on historic Boston Harbor.

We are just a few steps from Quincy Market, New England
Aquarium, and countless world class restaurants. Charm
and spectacular views punctuate this quiet and safe marina.
As the city’s oldest continually operating yachting facility,
Boston Waterboat Marina prides itself on offering small town

hospitality with big city convenience.

Closest marina to downtown Boston High-speed in-slip fueling
Floating slips and moorings to 200’ Newly remodeled bath house

Mega-yacht power available Gated entrance

waterboatmarina.com • 617-523-1027

PICCOZZI’S
DERING
HARBOR
MARINA

In the Heart of Downtown
Shelter Island

• Transients & Pets Welcome
• Walk to Restaurants, Groceries, Shops, Inns, Art
Galleries & More • Berths & Moorings to 160 Feet

• Fresh Water & 15-100 amp Electric
• Gas, Diesel & Propane • Showers & Restrooms

• Bicycle Rentals • Golf & Tennis Nearby
• Bike or Walk to North Ferry to Greenport
• Shuttle Service to South Ferry to Hamptons

631-749-0045

Bridge Street In Shelter Island Heights, NY 11965

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WATERWAY EXPLORER 2020 95

DESTINATIONS

A Side Trip
to Rochester

s Yogi Berra once famously said, “When you come to Heading Upriver
a fork in the road, take it.” This is good advice for Erie
Passing under the Elmwood Ave. Bridge, the University of
ACanal cruisers coming to the Genesee River junction Rochester takes shape on the eastern shore. Just ahead to port
is Brooks Landing, a free city dock complete with power and
near Rochester, NY. You should add it to your itinerary, if just water. Or stay at the at Staybridge Suites hotel if you like and
for a short side trip loop. The less than 6-mile round trip is enjoy its many amenities, including a great breakfast buffet
well worth the diversion just for the history and the scenery. (1000 Genesee St., 585-527-9110).
Have time to stay for lunch or to dock overnight? Even better.
A short Uber ride from Brooks Landing will bring you across
The junction of the Erie Canal and the Genesee River is the river to College Town, offering ample choices for food,
easy to miss, as it is virtually unmarked. (As a point of interest, shopping and entertainment. Carnivores will particularly enjoy
the junction of the Erie Canal and the Genesee River is named
“Curtis Point” in honor Texas de Brazil steakhouse
of Ted Curtis, a visionary (22 Celebration Dr.,
585-473-2013). Take time
Just after passing under the abandonedand early ambassador for to explore the nearby
Mt. Hope Cemetery,
“railroad bridge, the treed horizon line slidesRochester’s waterways the resting place for civil
rights champions Susan
and founder of Corn B. Anthony and Frederick
Douglass. Founded in 1836, it is the first municipal cemetery
open like a theater curtain to reveal theHill Navigation.) in the U.S., covering 196 acres with 350,000 graves, boasting a
downtown skyline of RochesterGenesee Valley Park larger population than the City of Rochester!
Heading north from Brooks Landing, the quiet river is
to port at the junction lined with trees and wildlife. It’s is hard to imagine you are just
a few miles from New York’s third largest city, which comes
”is a pastoral setting interrupted only by the kayaks on the

Genesee Valley River Trail. The park was designed by the
famed landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted, who was
also responsible for designing the grounds of New York City’s
Central Park, the U.S. Capitol in Washington, the Biltmore
Estate in North Carolina and the 1893 World’s Columbian
Exposition in Chicago.

96 WATERWAYGUIDE.COM

Corn Hill Landing, downtown Rochester

into view in a cinematic way. Just after Goin’ Ashore showers. If you choose to stay, take a
passing under the abandoned railroad stroll around the restored mansions of
bridge, the treed horizon line slides Passing under the Ford St. Bridge brings the Corn Hill neighborhood. Tony D’s
open like a theater curtain to reveal you to Corn Hill Landing. This is as at 288 Exchange Blvd. (585-413-3640)
the downtown skyline of Rochester. far as you can go; the Ford St. Dam is is the place to go for coal-fired pizza.
Have your camera ready! just ahead and High Falls another 0.5 Dinosaur BBQ at 90 Court St. (585-325-
mile to the north. Docking is free at 7090) is less than a 0.5-mile walk from
Corn Hill Landing with water and Corn Hill Landing across the Court St.
power, but there are no restrooms or Bridge, providing a close-up view of the
Genesee Aqueduct.
Penguin at Corn Hill Landing, Rochester
Just west of Corn Hill Landing is
the original Nick Tahou Hots (320 W.
Main St., 585-436-0184), home of
the famous “Garbage Plate,” a mash-
up of meats, fries, salads and sauces.
The Susan B. Anthony Museum and
House is nearby at 17 Madison St. (585-
235-6124) with artifacts displayed in the
former house of the famous Suffragette.

North of High Falls, the Genesee
Brewery is housed in an old packing
center and features a museum, gift shop,
pilot brewery and pub-style restaurant
(25 Cataract St., 585-263-9200).
Sample craft beers (such as Genny
Cream Ale) and enjoy a spectacular
view of the High Falls, one of the largest
waterfalls in NY State.

WATERWAY EXPLORER 2020 97

Rochester High Falls from Ponte de Rennes pedestrian bridge

Navigation Tips Interesting Facts

For a day trip, figure on a 2-hour round trip back to the Erie Canal • The Genesee River wasn’t part of
junction. Timing is important if heading east because you will need the original Erie Canal, which cut
another 2 hours to navigate Locks 33 and 32 en route to the Village of through downtown Rochester over an
Pittsford. If heading west, it’s less than 2 hours to Spencerport, where there 800-foot-long aqueduct. Today that
is plenty of free docking east of the Union St. Lift Bridge. structure stands as the base of the
Broad St. Bridge. When the N.Y.
A couple of cautions. If the river is rain swollen, the current can run State Barge Canal was completed in
fairly fast. Driftwood is abundant in flood time and some navigation 1918 and routed around the city, this
buoys may be off station. Be aware of shoaling on the northeast corner section of the river connected the city
when turning north on the Genesee River at the Erie Canal junction. with the new canal route. The Ford
The channel here runs closer to the west shore. Stay in the channel and St. Dam maintains the water level on
depths should be nominally 10 feet. You may see Canal Corp tugs and a this canalized river section.
dredge stationed there, a sure sign of deep water. There has been very little
attention to dredging at the Corn Hill Landing wall so deep-draft vessels • Famous professional jumper and
should be aware and approach with caution. Depths as low as 3 feet MLW daredevil Sam Patch met his fate at
have been reported dockside. High Falls on Friday, November 13,
1829, when attempting his second
Whether you just take a short side trip or stay over, this section of the High Falls jump. Patch had just
Erie Canal offers a lot to see, do and learn. Heed Mr. Berra’s advice and successfully jumped at Niagara Falls
take the fork. You will be glad you did. H when he set his sights on the High
Capt. John “JJ” Johnston is our Cruising Editor for the Erie Canal and Falls. The second jump was touted as
NY Sate Canal System. He’s navigated all 4 canals, 524 miles, 57 locks his “last jump of the season” but it
and visited many of the 200 communities along the way. You may see proved to be his last jump ever.
him on his 29 C Dory, Penguin, or at his home port in Fairport, NY.
He’s happy to share information and meet new friends.

To read more about the Rochester area refer to the
2020 Great Lakes Vol. 1 edition of Waterway Guide

98 WATERWAYGUIDE.COM


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