Supreme Report

Sexism within visual advertising in the
streetwear market has been since the
culture began, with accusations regarding
the poor perception of women within
the workplace of streetwear brands
also proving that sexism is embedded
within the market (McGarrigle, 2018).
Within their visual marketing, brands often
disregard women entirely or portray them
in an over-sexualised manner in order to
sell to the male consumer, disregarding the
increasing number of women consumers
who may want to see themselves accurately
represented by a brand. Imagery has been
gathered to show the conflicting perceptions
of men and women that are consistently
portrayed within the visual market. The
focus group conducted, as well as the survey,
gained qualitative information in regards
to how female gen-z consumers perceived
a range of different imagery within the
streetwear market. This assists in developing
a campaign strategy for a streetwear brand
by allowing the brand to see what type of
imagery is best received by the consumer.

44

45

This image belonged to a controversial campaign from the men’s fashion brand ‘I Love
Ugly’. The campaign, when it was launched in 2015, saw significant backlash due to the
over-sexualised nature of the imagery. When participants in primary research were asked
to describe this image, the most common answers were ‘sexual’ and ‘uncomfortable’. No
positive words were used in the description of this image. Participants noted that they felt
the advertisement was meant for men, but they felt ‘confused’ as to what the product was
trying to sell. One participant stated “this makes me uncomfortable, as a woman it makes me
feel like an accessory to men, I don’t want to see that”. Consumers felt this type of imagery
would discourage in supporting a brand, stating that “it made me (them) feel objectified”.

46

This image, whilst not directly used in a campaign by a streetwear brand, is one of few images
available that targets the topic of sexism within streetwear, making it interesting to analyse the
consumer perception to this image. When consumers were asked to describe this image, there was
an overwhelmingly positive response in comparison to the first image. Participants noted aspects
such as the colour and humour of the image, using words such as ‘happy’ and ‘cool’. Whilst
consumers noted that this type of imagery may not encourage them to purchase from a brand, it
would raise their attention to the brand and they would likely follow them via social media. One
participant from focus group A noted “it makes me feel understood within this market and I’ve never
felt a brand speak to me in that way before, I’d love to see more challenging imagery like this”.

47

This image is one of few Supreme campaigns
that features women. It was important to
use an image Supreme has previously used
featuring women in order to gauge how
the consumer responds to women within
their marketing, whether in a sexualised
manner or not. When asked to describe
this image, the most reoccurring responses
were ‘provocative’ and ‘sexualised’. There
were several positive responses towards this
image, describing it as ‘creative’ and ‘visually
appealing’ however the same respondents
stated that they found the image ‘confusing’.
One respondent stated “this one just confuses
me, if I saw this I wouldn’t know the brand,
I wouldn’t know what it was trying to sell”.
As Supreme campaigns are typically easily
identified due to the bold logo and strong
brand identity, the idea that consumers were
unable to understand the brand and what it
is trying to sell via this image identify that
this is a weak campaign for the brand which
is perceived negatively by female consumers.

48

overa
gs
ll findin

Overall, the findings from this research
have identified that female consumers
respond highly negatively to images of
women which have sexual connotations.
Widely, female consumers have stated
that this would discourage them from
supporting a brand. As Supreme’s use
of women in marketing is restricted
and consistently sexualised, it can be
suggested that they are excluding a large
proportion of potential consumers in using
this strategy. According to the Association
of National Advertisers US (2017),
“realistic portrayals of women in ads
increased purchase intent by 26% among
all consumers and 45% among women.

49

50

cha pter five

the proposal

51

strategy overview

The compilation of research into the streetwear market, the Supreme brand and the role
of women within advertising has allowed a comprehensive visual marketing campaign
plan to be formed. After analysis of the Supreme brand and their existing strategy, a
strong correlation between the brands identity and degree of brand loyalty amongst
existing consumers has been identified. Amongst their existing consumers, Supreme needs
to do little in regards to marketing and advertising due to the nature of the consumer
behaviour, where sell outs are often guaranteed. Nevertheless, a gap within Supreme’s
current strategy has been identified throughout this report – directly targeting female
consumers. Consequently, the campaign proposal will target female, gen-z consumers
through addressing the social issue of women’s equality, both within wider society and
the streetwear market. The marketing objectives of this campaign strategy are as follows:

1. To target new customers
2. To build brand awareness
3. To enhance existing customer relationships

52

Figure 8: Ansoffs Matrix, Authors existing products new
Own (2020)

marketsexisting new market development diversification
market penetration product development

In reference to Ansoff’s matrix, this is a ‘market development’ strategy. The focus
group identified that female gen-z consumers feel comfortable with the product
offering for women as streetwear products are widely viewed as unisex, meaning
that Supremes product offering is able to remain the same within the campaign.
Nevertheless, whilst a percentage of Supremes consumer base is female, they have
never directly targeted them through strategy, making this a new market for the
brand. Due to the degree of brand loyalty secured by Supreme, this visual market
development strategy is likely to be low risk as their existing consumers, with whom
the content does not directly target, are also likely to engage with the campaign.

53

dress for success

As research into the gen-z consumer identified,
authenticity is one of the most important factors for
these consumers in brand identity and relationships.
This was supported within the focus group, where
participants identified that if a brand were to
address a social issue, they would need to feel as
though the brand actively cared about the cause
– one participant stated “there’s been so many
cases where I felt they’ve (the brands) just done it
because it’s trendy, a good way to make money”.

As a result of these findings, in order to make the
campaign proposal have a more authentic meaning,
the strategy will be a collaborative visual campaign
with Supreme and charity ‘Dress For Success’. ‘Dress
For Success’ is a non-profit organisation founded in
1997 – since its start-up, the charity has assisted
1.2 million women to become self-sufficient, in
25 countries (Dress For Success, n.d.). The charity
provides low-income or unemployed women
with professional attire to wear to interviews in
order to increase their likelihoods of obtaining
secure employment, also providing training and
mentorship whilst creating connections and bonds
for these women with volunteers and peers.

54

Figure 9: Illustration of Campaign Proposal, Authors Own (2020) The first phase implementation of this
strategy will be the posting of the
55 campaign imagery on social media. The
visual imagery used throughout the
campaign will imitate famous images of US
Presidents, replaced with women wearing
items from Supreme such as the standard
box logo t—shirts. An example of the type
of imagery which would be used in the
campaign has been drafted, showing a
woman sitting in the oval office, replicating
many images that have been taken of
Presidents over time. The woman appears
powerful, remaining the focal point of
the photo, posed strongly and dressed
in a suit in order to avoid any sexual
connotations which have been proven
to have a negative effect on consumer
attitude towards brands (Wirtz et al, 2017).

Replicating famous images of US presidents
with women in a non-sexualised manner
challengers gender norms that continue to
be enforced, particularly as there has never
been a female US president. Consequently,
this campaign is able to address and
confront the social issue of gender equality,
something which has been identified as of
great importance to gen-z consumers in
their modern relationships with brands,
and conflicts the traditional image of
women within streetwear marketing that
has been presented throughout this report.

The campaign will be posted across Supreme’s social media sites, in line with their
marketing strategy. Instagram is the main platform for engagement with the brand
meaning this will be the most important platform for the content to be posted.
Furthermore, in order to target more consumers who may not see the content on social
media, the imagery will be advertised on posters in key urban areas, such as London
SOHO. This means this strategy combines a selection of above-the-line and below-the-line
marketing techniques, reaching a wider capacity of existing and potential consumers.

Imagery will be released throughout the month of March 2021, with the first post on 1st
March 2021. This date is in line with women’s history month, again showing an alignment
between the interests of female gen-z consumers and the Supreme brand. The topic will be
relevant during this period, making awareness of the campaign spread further due to it
being a trending topic within the media. This will generate greater brand awareness and
allow Supreme to gain new consumers, meeting the marketing objectives that have been set.

For the second phase of this strategy, in order to show a degree of authenticity to the new
and existing Supreme consumer, for the period of the campaign (March 2021) Supreme
will dedicate to donating 10% of its profits to the Dress For Success charity. This shows
commitment to the cause from the Supreme brand to its new and existing consumers,
building on the authentic relationship that gen-z consumers seek. Whilst the objective
of the campaign is not directly profit, the focus group participants stated that they
would be highly encouraged to purchase a product from a brand if a proportion of the
profits went to a cause they felt passionate about. The survey supported this argument
with 51% of consumers being more likely to purchase an item for a charitable cause.

56

With the rise of ethical expectations by gen-z consumers in recent years, this campaign
will be able to meet the marketing objectives set out of targeting new consumers, building
brand awareness and enhancing existing relationships. The campaign targets social issues,
a factor which gen-z consumers feel brands have a responsibility of accommodating.
The strategy is able to feel authentic for the female gen-z consumer by engaging directly
with the social issue by donating a percentage of profits to a charity fighting the cause.
Figures have suggested that this strategy encourages consumers to make purchases from
the brand, making it a low risk strategy in terms of cost and profits as sales are likely to
increase. March is the central period of Supreme’s ‘drop season’, meaning sales in this
period are guaranteed due to the nature of their existing consumer behaviour which has
been analysed within this report, reducing the risk of this strategy to the brand even further.

57

Figure 10: Mock Image of Campaign Poster, Authors Own (2020) 58

ch apter six

conclusion

59

In conclusion, this report has given insight into the streetwear market and the Supreme
brand, investigating existing and potential consumer behaviour within the streetwear
market. The brand loyalty that is seen throughout the streetwear market means
streetwear brands often undertaken understated marketing strategies, as sales are
often guaranteed. Nevertheless, the report has identified a potential expansion route
for Supreme in order to better target female gen-z consumers, a growing market within
streetwear and a highly influential one within the wider fashion industry. The issue of
sexism within the streetwear market has been discussed at lengths within the media,
making it important for streetwear brands to address as gen-z consumers (with whom
make up the majority of the market) increasingly expect brands to use their positions
within society to address social and ethical issues. Consequently, the visual marketing
campaign that has been proposed is highly relevant to the Supreme brand, keeping in
line with its brand identity, and gives the brand capacity to strengthen is prime position
within the streetwear market by gaining recognition and respect within the wider market.

60

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Zidel, A., 2018. A$AP Rocky Returns With New Song “Sundress” [digital image]. Hot New Hip Hop. Available at: https://
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65

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Research Reports

Helmie, J., and Syafrudin, E., 2019. Semiotic Analysis Of Five Famous Streetwear Trademarks [online]. Available at: https://
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Macedo, M., 2015. The Newfound Reality Of Streetwear And Its Luxury-Like Management [online]. Bachelors, Catholic
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Journal Articles

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2020].
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(1), 95 – 97

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Wirtzs, J., Sparks, J., and Zimbres, T., 2017. The effect of exposure to sexual appeals in advertisements on memory, attitude,
and purchase intention: a meta-analytic review. International Journal Of Advertising [online], 37 (2), 169 – 198. Available via:
https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/02650487.2017.1334996 [Accessed 12 May 2020].

Blogs

Association of National Advertisers US., 2018. Reality Check: New Equality Measure Targets Gender Bias in Ads and Media.
ANA [online blog], 20 March. Available at: https://www.ana.net/content/show/id/43814 [Accessed 12 May 2020].
Benigson, M., 2017. The Drop: A Lesson In Artificial Scarcity And Cool. The MBS Group [online blog], 17 March. Available at:
https://www.thembsgroup.co.uk/internal/the-drop-a-lesson-in-artificial-scarcity-and-cool/ [Accessed 12 May 2020].
Bukolovska, J., 2018. Streetwear is the new luxury. Knitting Industry [online blog], 03 December. Available at: https://www.
knittingindustry.com/streetwear-is-the-new-luxury/ [Accessed 12 May 2020].
Gadimova, R., 2020. Marketing To Gen Z, Come For The Authenticity, Stay For The Experiences. Marketo [online blog].
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[Accessed 12 May 2020].
Kasasa, 2020. Boomers, Gen X, Gen Y, and Gen Z Explained. Kasasa [online blog], 12 May. Available at: https://www.
kasasa.com/articles/generations/gen-x-gen-y-gen-z [Accessed 12 May 2020].
Lee, J., 2018. How Supreme Became One Of The Biggest Brands On The Planet. Streetwear Jobs [online blog], 03 September.
Available at: https://blog.streetwearjobs.com/history-of-supreme [Accessed 05 May 2020].
McKinnon, T., 2019. The Brilliant Strategy Behind Supreme’s Success. Indigo 9 Digital [online blog], 28 May. Available at:
https://www.indigo9digital.com/blog/the-brilliant-strategy-behind-supremes-success [Accessed 12 May 2020].
Muriuki, W., 2020. Supreme Net Worth 2020. Wealthy Persons [online blog], 07 May. Available at: https://www.
wealthypersons.com/supreme-net-worth-2020-2021/ [Accessed 08 May 2020].
Netzer, J., 2019. 5 Generation Z Statistics on Spending Habits That Marketers Need to Know. Khoros [online blog], 11 June.
Available at: https://khoros.com/blog/5-stats-generation-z-buying-habits# [Accessed 11 May 2020].
Schirtzinger, W., 2018. Four Characteristics of Early Adopters That Will Help, and Then Later Hurt, Your CleanTech Business.
Medium [online blog], 16 February. Available at: https://medium.com/@CustomerAlignment/four-characteristics-of-early-
adopters-that-will-help-and-then-later-hurt-your-cleantech-business-5a58a91c40a9 [Accessed 11 May 2020].
Sellers, M., 2019. Supreme Founder James Jebbia Explains His Strategy For Streetwear Success. Anorak [online blog], 19
April. Available at: http://anorak.co/supreme-founder-james-jebbia-explains-strategy-streetwear-success/ [Accessed 10 May
2020].
Thrifted, 2019. What Is The Difference Between Fake & Bootleg? Thrifted [online blog], 10 November. Available at: https://
www.thrifted.com/blogs/the-edit/what-is-the-difference-between-fake-bootleg [13 May 2020].
United Nations, 2020. Almost 90% Of Men/Women Globally Are Biased Against Women. United Nations Development
Programme [online blog], 05 March. Available at: https://www.undp.org/content/undp/en/home/newscentre/news/2020/
Gender_Social_Norms_Index_2020.html [Accessed 11 May 2020]

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Unknown, 2018. Supreme: Guerilla Advertising & Marketing. JMA419 [online blog], 24 January. Available at: http://jma419.
blogspot.com/2018/01/supreme-guerilla-advertising-marketing.html [Accessed 09 May 2020].
Velasquez, A., 2019. Streetwear Consumers Just Want Cool And Comfortable Products. Sourcing Journal [online blog], 24
May. Available at: https://sourcingjournal.com/denim/denim-business/streetwear-consumers-just-want-cool-and-comfortable-
products-153545/ [Accessed 09 May 2020].
Wolf, C., 2017. Louis Vuitton Goes From Lawyering Up Against Supreme to Collabing With Them, Maybe. Racked [online blog],
03 January. Available at: https://www.racked.com/2017/1/3/14157674/louis-vuitton-supreme-collab-rumor [Accessed 08
May 2020].
Yu, N., 2018. Sexism In Street Fashion. Alt Magazine [online blog], 20 March. Available at: https://www.altmagazine.org/
blog-post/sexism-in-street-fashion [Accessed 09 May 2020].

Books

Bennett, A., 2005. Culture And Everyday Life. 1st ed. London: Sage.
Hundreds, B., 2019. This Is Not A T-shirt. 1st ed. New York : MCD
Kawamura, Y., 2016. Sneakers: Fashion, Gender, and Subculture. 1st ed. London : Bloomsbury Academic.

Misc

Arvanitidou, Z. and Gasouka, M., 2011. Fashion, Gender and Social Identity [online]. London : Fashion Colloquia. Available at:
https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/6322/fashiongender-and-social-identity [Accessed 11 May 2020].
Dress For Success., N.D. About Us. Dress For Success [online]. Available at: https://dressforsuccess.org/about-us/ [Accessed 12
May 2020].
Oxford Dictionary., N.D. Definition Of Supreme. Oxford Learners Dictionaries [online]. Available at: https://www.
oxfordlearnersdictionaries.com/definition/english/supreme [Accessed 12 May 2020].

Imagery

032C, N.D. Supreme Consumer Collage [digital image]. 032C. Available at: https://032c.com/supreme/ [Accessed 20 May
2020].
Araki, N., 2017. Supreme X Araki [digital image]. Instagram. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/p/BMOt7xlhxqH/
[Accessed 19 May 2020].
Araki, N., 2017. Supreme X Araki [digital image]. NSS Magazine. Available at: https://www.nssmag.com/en/fashion/9290/
nobuyoshi-araki-x-supreme [Accessed 20 May 2020].
Aziz, Y., 2019. Soho, New York [digital image]. Unsplash. Available at: https://unsplash.com/photos/6nG3oejRxbU [Accessed
20 May 2020].

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Chadwick, T., 2018. Supreme X Hysteric Glamour [digital image]. XOXOCO. Available at: https://xoxoco.co/supreme-hysteric/
[Accessed 20 May 2020].
Coleagles,. N.D. Supreme x LV [digital image]. Pinterest. Available at: https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/617908011348944376/
[Accessed 19 May 2020].
Dahlgren, P., 2019. The Global Streetwear Report [digital image]. NSS Magazine. Available at: https://www.nssmag.com/en/
fashion/18643/global-streetwear-report [Accessed 20 May 2020].
Dean Kauman, N.D. Supreme Store [digital image]. Arch Daily. Available at: https://www.archdaily.com/895209/supreme-
store-neil-logan-architect/5b088e6df197cca964000046-supreme-store-neil-logan-architect-photo [Accessed 19 May 2020].
Dress For Success,. 2018. Community Lending Shelf – Dress For Success [digital image]. CKFM. Available at: https://www.ckfm.
ca/news/local-news/community-lending-shelf-dress-for-success1/ [Accessed 20 May 2020].
Estrop, 2017. Christopher Shannon’s Lovers Direct T-shirt, on the catwalk this year [digital image]. Getty Images. Available at:
https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2017/dec/30/bootleg-logos-designers-copyright-fashion [Accessed 19 May 2020].
Genius, 2019. Tyler, The Creator Igor [digital image]. Genius. Available at: https://genius.com/albums/Tyler-the-creator/Igor
[Accessed 20 May 2020].
Grossman, A., 2020. The Best Streetwear Brands To Keep Watching In 2020 [digital image]. Esquire. Available at: https://
www.esquire.com/style/mens-fashion/g31190365/best-streetwear-brands/ [Accessed 19 May 2020].
Herbert, C., 2007. Kanye West’s Graduation [digital image]. Conor Herbert. Available at: https://conorherbert.com/
musarticles/class-of-2007-the-story-of-kanye-wests-graduation [Accessed 20 May 2020].
I Love Ugly., 2015. Jewellery Ring Campaign [digital image]. Daily Mail. Available at: https://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/
article-3344050/New-Zealand-clothing-company-Love-Ugly-fire-jewellery-campaign-showing-man-s-hands-covering-naked-
woman-s-private-parts.html [Accessed 20 May 2020].
Kelly-Sinclair, P., N.D. Supreme x Kate Moss Poster [digital image]. Pinterest. Available at: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/
pin/389983648966614108/ [Accessed 20 May 2020].
Klekt,. N.D. Image of customers outside Supreme storefront in the 90’s [digital image]. Klekt. Available at: https://www.klekt.
com/blog/a-history-of-supreme-from-independent-skate-shop-to-global-powerhouse_i1045 [Accessed 19 May 2020].
Lavenia, C., 2019. Guests In Supreme [digital image]. Getty. Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/
zoewong1/2019/07/31/heres-how-brands-are-using-the-streetwear-trend-to-attract-gen-z/#476b92061664 [Accessed 19
May 2020].
Lee, J, 2018. The History Of Supreme With a NYC Skate Crew Of The 90s [digital image]. Streetwear Jobs. Available at:
https://blog.streetwearjobs.com/history-of-supreme [Accessed 19 May 2020].
Lee, J, 2018. The History Of Supreme With An Original Supreme Print Advert [digital image]. Streetwear Jobs. Available at:
https://blog.streetwearjobs.com/history-of-supreme [Accessed 19 May 2020].
McKinsey., 2018. The Search For The Truth Is At The Root Of All Generation Z’s behaviour [digital image]. McKinsey. Available
at: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/true-gen-generation-z-and-its-implications-
for-companies [Accessed 20 May 2020.
Melton, M., 2017. Two young women stopped to hoist their signs over their head during the women’s march as on lookers
with cameras took pictures, myself included. It was one of many moments that felt joyous during the march [digital image].
Unsplash. Available at: https://unsplash.com/photos/sLwkS2P-Ryw [Accessed 19 May 2020].

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Mendoza, C., 2017. Skater Girl [digital image]. Pinterest. Available at: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/
pin/354165958187428799/ [Accessed 20 May 2020].
Richardson, T., 2011. Lady Gaga For Supreme [digital image]. Grailed. Available at: https://www.grailed.com/drycleanonly/
matthew-williams-28-1 [Accessed 20 May 2020].
Riot, R., 2018. When The Reseller Assumes You Only Want The Pink Colourway [digital image]. Hypebeast. Available at:
https://hypebeast.com/2018/3/sexism-streetwear-women-boys-club [Accessed 20 May 2020].
Salamone, L., 2020. Is this new Crewneck from Supreme a Box Logo or not? [digital image]. NSS Magazine. Available at:
https://www.nssmag.com/en/fashion/22151/supreme-cutout-logo [Accessed 19 May 2020].
Sibley, E., 2019. Proposed Consumer Demographic [digital image]. Blogspot. Available at: http://fmcelisesibley.blogspot.
com/2019/01/moodboard-proposed-consumer-demographic.html [Accessed 20 May 2020].
Supreme, 2020. Supreme Oreo Cookie [digital image]. Instagram. Available at: https://www.cosmopolitan.com/food-
cocktails/a31041248/supreme-oreos-resell-price-ebay/ [Accessed 19 May 2020].
The Kit, 2018. Karrueche Trran [digital image]. The Kit. Available at: https://thekit.ca/style/celebrity-style/celeb-
streetwear-2018/ [Accessed 19 May 2020].
Wollens, H., 2020. Bella Hadid For Vogue Italia [digital image]. Vogue. Available at: https://www.repulostailors.com/post/
fashion-during-quarantine [Accessed 19 May 2020].
Zidel, A., 2018. A$AP Rocky Returns With New Song “Sundress” [digital image]. Hot New Hip Hop. Available at: https://
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ap p e ndic e s

Appendices 1.0: PESTLE

Political

The influence of political events, such as Brexit and the upcoming 2020 US election, is yet unknown due to the uncertainty of
such a political climate. The most likely outcome in the long run is the increase in the cost of importing goods – an issue for UK
markets as in 2018 “approximately 20 billion British pounds worth of apparel and clothing accessories were imported into
the UK” (Sabanoglu, 2020). For fashion brands, they will see an increase in their production costs which will have consequent
impacts on their profits in the cases where such an increase is not passed onto the consumer. As a result, brands may be
forced to make decisions to cut budgets in areas such as visual marketing, which may result in fewer campaigns throughout
the year, or newer methods of marketing such as sponsorships.
For streetwear brands, such as Supreme, where the main method of marketing is that of guerrilla marketing with minimalistic
campaigns throughout the year, marketing budgets are already likely to be low meaning that strategies in these areas may
not be influenced on the same scale as typical high-street or luxury brands.

Economic

The coronavirus pandemic of 2020 is to have economic impacts globally, likely to affect every industry on the planet in some
form. Within the US, GDP is predicted to fall at an annualized 30% within its next quarter (Rushe, 2020), with the UK GDP
also expected to fall by 14% over the next year (Thorpe, 2020). Consequently, a global recession is to be expected, forecast
to cost the global fashion industry 27-30% in year-on-years revenues (McKinsey, 2020). Due to the uncertainty of the situation
regarding COVID-19, the legitimacy of forecasts and predictions can be faulted, with the outcome for fashion brands to be
largely dependent on factors such as their price and accessibility to markets. Whilst streetwear brands may struggle in the
long term, the immediate impact has seen booms for sub-markets within streetwear – the market for facemasks, a product
which has been imitated by streetwear brands for sometime before the pandemic arose, has expanded massively, so much to
the extent that masks by brands such as Off-White are being sold on re-sell sites such as StockX for up to $350 (Hine, 2020).
This suggests that consumer behaviour within the streetwear market is remaining consistent, a positive sign for streetwear
brands in terms of their existing strategies.

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Social

In recent years, society has seen a significant rise in social, ethical awareness – this has created an ‘age of acceptance’
(Wardle, 2016), accompanied by a protest culture amongst youths. According to one survey, around 25% of gen-z members
have participated in some sort of protest and are identified as being the most liberal generation in regards to social issues,
such as same-sex marriage, to date (Padmanabhan, 2019).

For brands, it becomes important to be aware of these social issues, such as LGBT, gender and ethnic rights, as consumers
will hold brands accountable if they act immorally through the method of boycott, 69% of gen-z consumers are more likely to
contribute to a brand that contributes to social causes, with 33% refusing to purchase from brands that work for causes with
which they do not support (Dugan, 2019).

Visually, this allows brands to be creative in portraying a message of support to gen-z consumers. Brands may take measures
to create new objectives through their visual marketing in these circumstances, such as increasing brand awareness or
increasing brand loyalty, as opposed to increasing profit, in order to create an authentic relationship with their consumers.

Technological

The COVID-19 pandemic has seen an increase in the use of technology both globally and within the fashion industry, meaning
it becomes more important for fashion brands to utilise their use of technology. Events such as Shanghai fashion week have
already been conducted online, attended by 2.5 million people (Mallon, 2020), suggesting that global fashion events will
move to the digital world in the near future in order to combat the coronavirus. Events such as trade shows are also forecast
to shift to digital, a strategy which also helps to combat the climate effect of the fashion industry.
For brands, this means they have to develop new, innovative measures to sell their message to consumers, particularly if
social distancing measures remain in place creating restrictions on marketing capabilities. Fashion photography is predicted
to see significant changes, with the rise of the use of zoom and facetime photoshoots, a new visual trend which has emerged
from the coronavirus pandemic (Milner, 2020).

Legal

Bootleg culture? Laws surrounding this? Apply to visual marketing

The streetwear market has a solid history of legal issues and battles. The use of bootlegs is very prominent within the

streetwear market – defined as the “creative appropriation of brands, mimicking the original but making it the designers own,

resulting in a unique looking product” (Thrifted, 2019). The laws behind the extent to which brands can conduct this behaviour

are complex and open to interpretation, however cases where brands simply use the visual design of another brand and

exclude the name are able to avoid trademark infringement cases (Leach, 2018).

Supreme are one of the larger brands accused of doing this, though it has seen lawsuits against them from brands such as

Louis Vuitton. Nevertheless, the use of bootleg designs within visual marketing can be a clever tactic by brands as the designs

already have existing connotations to consumers meaning a message is easily portrayed. Furthermore, as debate around

the use of bootlegs appears to be on the rise, brands often capitalise on the controversy caused by such actions in order to

generate brand awareness. 74

Environmental

The state of the environment and climate change has become a hot topic in recent years. 41% of gen-z consumers have cited
climate change as the most important issue currently facing the world (Barbiroglio, 2019). Consequently, fashion brands have a
responsibility to check their sustainability measures, as the fashion industry produces 10% of all humanity’s carbon emissions
(McFall-Johnsen, 2019). 90% of consumers agree that brands have a responsibility to take care of the planet, with 83% citing
that they would “always pick the brand that has a better record of sustainability” (Warc, 2018). Streetwear brands are not
to be excluding from these figures, often seeing huge growth over minimum time which can result in huge climate footprints
despite producing fewer garments than typical fast fashion brands (Rosmarin, 2020).

Appendices 2.0 Focus Group A

Focus Group Transcript: 01/05/2020
Group A
Location: Cambridge, UK via Zoom
Group Leader: Josie Taylor (Student at NTU) [J]
Participants: 5 UK Females Aged 19 – 23 [P1 – P5]
J: Hi everyone, I just wanted to start by thanking you all for participating in this focus group today, especially under the current
circumstances we are facing – I hope you’re all doing okay. The purpose of todays focus group is to discuss your experiences
as female consumers within the streetwear market and your perception of the representation of women in the market through
visual marketing. Clearly I know you’re all big fans of streetwear so I’m looking forward to hearing what you have to say.
This shouldn’t last too long, and I just wanted to make sure you’re all aware of your rights as participants within this group.
Obviously you’ve all received and sent back to me the consent form, but just to remind you that anything you say within this
discussion today will remain anonymous and confidential, used only for the purpose of my dissertation. You have the right at any
time to remove yourself from the discussion, and if you feel uncomfortable about anything we have discussed you can contact me
through the email I’ve provided you. Is that okay with everyone? Any questions?
P1 – 4: Yes that’s fine
P5: That is fine thank you, I have no questions either
J: Okay great. So to start I’d like to know a little bit about your history as streetwear consumers, how did you become interested
in streetwear, were there any particular people who influenced you?
P1: I’m not sure I can pinpoint an exact time I became interested, I think its always been my kind of style. I grew up listening to
a lot of R&B and hip hop, you know Kanye West and the sort, so I think that where I largely got the style from, I guess you could
say those artists were a big influence on me as well, not today as much

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P2: It’s partly the same with me, at least from the music perspective but I was a lot older. When Kanye released ‘The Life Of
Pablo’ I got really into his music and then eventually I guess the style influenced filtered down, it was never an intentional
decision to start investing in streetwear products. The whole ‘yes’ hype was what really opened my eyes up to it.
P3: See I would say I’ve only really been interested in streetwear for the last year or two, and I’m talking the whole
hypebeast culture here. I saw a lot of Jordans popping up on my Instagram feed, became obsessed with the look of them and
it sort of just went from there. There’s a girl called Sally Sneakers on Instagram who really inspired me into it, but then guys
like Leo Mandella were really inspirational to me as well.
P4: My interest in streetwear is definitely pretty recent as well, within the last few years. I came across PAQ on YouTube and it
was them guys who really got me into it.
P2: Oh PAQ are so great! They influence me a lot.
P5: For me, my brother and his mates were always really into it, and I think growing up around them I was just sort of in the
culture before I even realised what streetwear was. It’s hard not to be when you grow up listening to people like Kanye and
Tyler (The Creator), their influence spreads so much further than just their music.
Josie: That’s really interesting, so most of you found your inspiration from guys within the industry, I didn’t hear many girls
names there, just the one I believe. Are there any women in the industry who have inspired you?
P2: Honestly, not really. I mean there’s definitely been an increase of visible women within the industry since I would’ve
classed myself a consumer, but like I say that’s recent and I’ve developed my individual style within it now.
P3: I agree, there is the odd one, like I mentioned Sally, but for the most part men are really leading the way in the industry
and have since the beginning.
P1: 100%, and there’s no pressure in the industry for you know, your body to look a certain way, most the clothes are baggy
and shapeless, so it doesn’t matter to me if I’m looking at a guy or a girl for inspiration, look at Billie Eillish for example.
P4: I was going to say her! I think she’s got a lot more people into the community, but I agree I think anyone who’s been
interested in the style for even just a couple years will mainly be influenced by guys. It’s only become trendy for girls in the
recent.
Josie: My next question I was going to ask how you would define the industry, you know is it unisex, male dominated,
gender neutral? We’ve sort of started that discussion but if there’s anything you would like to add. Have you ever felt any
discrimination being a women in the streetwear community?
P5: I wouldn’t say I’ve felt any direct discrimination, nothing I’d report or you know speak out about. Overall I think women
are viewed a lot more seriously by you know brands and males, I guess that’s maybe a more indirect type of discrimination?
P2: I completely agree. For men I feel streetwear is seen as this culture which is embedded in their personalities and it goes
further than clothing. Sometimes I’m made to feel really insecure by people, like I only want, I don’t know, the newest
Jordans because it’s an Instagram opportunity. That’s not the case at all, it’s just as deep for me as for any guy.
P3: Completely agree. People look at women wearing streetwear and think its just about the aesthetic, it’s much more. I’ve
made friends from this community, it determines my music taste, the day to day activities I do, my job, everything. It’s more
than fashion.
Josie: Okay there’s some really interesting points there, thank you. So going onto streetwear from a more visual business
perspective, do you think visual marketing impacts your purchasing decisions when it comes to streetwear products?
P1: Erm, I can’t think of any circumstance where I’ve looked at a campaign and straight away gone and made a purchase, at
least not with streetwear, I do all the time with highstreet clothing. I’ve definitely seen campaigns from streetwear, typically
smaller ones, and followed them on Instagram or the sort. That might have encouraged me to make a purchase, I’m not sure.

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P4: It’s a lot more about the hype and the history about the product when it comes to streetwear, isn’t it? I agree, I might see
a photoshoot I like and that will encourage me to follow the social media of a company.
P5: I would have to say I’m the same, but it’s not something that I’m against. Like has been mentioned I do that a lot with fast
fashion companies, Miss Guided you know, so there’s nothing to say I wouldn’t do the same for a streetwear brand if they did
a campaign which really impressed me, I guess its just not happened yet, not to say there hasn’t been some great visuals.
Josie: Okay, I understand that. As consumers do you think you would be more likely to purchase from a brand that addresses
social issues such as gender? Or does this not have much affect over your decisions?
P2: Yeah, at least for me it would definitely encourage me to, hm, maybe not make a purchase straight away, unless it was
for a charity or fundraiser, but I would definitely research the brand or follow them.
P3: That’s a good point about the charity, you know if a set amount of proceeds goes to a cause then I would really be
encouraged to buy something from a company.
P5: For me, it would need to feel authentic. Obviously I’m all for brands supporting causes like that, but there’s been so many
cases where I felt they’ve just done it because it’s trendy, a good way to make money. So yeah, I would need to feel like the
company was doing it because they actually care, and then I would probably engage with them, maybe buy something if it
supported the cause.
P4: Yeah I’m completely with you on that. I’m hesitant to call it a fad because obviously it’s an important cause and I think
most people are genuine, but it’s like when companies started printing feminist all over their tops. It just seemed a bit cliché
and like it was to make them look better and to not better the actual cause. I’d have to see more dedication from the brand
than just a visual marketing campaign.
P1: I agree. A good example that comes to mind, I know its not gender, but when Lacoste did that campaign with the
endangered animals embroidered onto their shirts. That one really picked up popularity but it seemed authentic from the
brand, I think brands need to pick into something like that, otherwise it just seems fake.
Josie: That’s all really helpful thanks guys. For this next section I’m going to share my screen with you and show you a few
images used in marketing campaigns by streetwear brands, and just asking you a few questions about your reactions to the
images. Is that okay with everyone?
P1 – 5: Yes.
Josie: Okay great, just give me two seconds. Can everybody see the screen that I’m sharing okay?
P1 – 5: Yes.
First Image: Supreme
Josie: Okay so this is image one. Firstly could you just describe this image to me? What you see and your first impressions.
P2: This just makes me super uncomfortable straight away. Like, don’t get me wrong she looks good, but it just seems
unnecessary and inappropriate.
P3: I agree. I can’t imagine seeing this image anywhere for a brand, its too inappropriate and I feel like parents will just kick
off about it?
P5: I mean, personally I like the image, from a creativity and photography point of view. It does make me uncomfortable, but
sometimes I think branding should. Maybe not in this way though, I guess she doesn’t need to be sexualised like that.
P1: It’s too sexual for me, just trying to sell to men with the provocative outfit. There’s no deep message to it, it seems
superficial.
P4: I Agree
Josie: So how does this make you feel towards a brand? Does it affect how your perceive the brand or change your purchase

77intentions?

P1: I don’t understand what it’s trying to sell at all, I mean its selling sex but no-one wants that in this day and age. If I saw

images like this all over a brand I’d be really put off the company.

P2: Same. This just confuses me, if I saw this I wouldn’t know the brand, I wouldn’t know what it was trying to sell.

P5: I can’t see myself in it, so I probably wouldn’t be encouraged to buy for that reason.

P3: I wouldn’t want to support a brand that represents women in this way, it makes me uncomfortable.

Image Two: Hypebeast

Josie: Okay thanks guys. Picture two now and the same questions, could you just describe your initial impression of this

picture to me?

P4: This is funny. The first thing I noticed was the colours and retro vibe of it all, but the caption made me laugh, its very

relatable.

P3: So relatable. I agree the colours caught my eye, they’re really on trend. The caption is great, I think it’s the first time I’ve

seen an image like this, but I like it.

P5: I love this. It’s so unique, I’ve never seen anything like this, the colours alone make me feel happy but the caption makes

me feel like an instant connection to the girl in the picture, like we have the same experiences

P1: That’s so true! I’m like ‘yes girl I feel you’, its light hearted but relevant and topical, it makes me feel good

P2: Yeah this is great, I do feel like there’s a lot going on, though. I sort of don’t know where to look first, but I love the

message.

Josie: Great. How would you feel towards a brand that used this type of imagery?

P4: It’s really personal, so I’d feel quite connected to a brand. It’s like they understand our perspective of things.

P5: Yeah 100%. I’ve never seen a brand use this sort of marketing but I love it, I feel like I really want to engage with it and

see what else the brand has to offer.

P3: Definitely, this is the kind of thing I would screenshot and show to my friends as well because I know they’ll relate. Its

clever.

P1: It makes me feel understood within this market and I’ve never felt a brand speak to me in that way before, I’d love to see

more challenging imagery like this

P2: Its fun and light hearted, it gives off a good energy that I imagine the brand replicates so it makes me really interested to

learn more about this brand.

Image Three: I love Ugly

Josie: Thanks guys. Just one more picture now, so how would you describe this one? First impressions?

P5: I hate this. It’s such a stark contrast to the last one. It’s in your face but not in a good way, I feel uncomfortable looking at

it.

P2: I agree, I think I get the message? Actually no I don’t, its just unnecessarily sexual

P3: To me this is like, this makes me uncomfortable, as a woman it makes me feel like an accessory to men, I don’t want to

see that.

P4: Same here. I feel objectified and I don’t like it.

Josie: So how would this make you feel towards this brand?

P1: I wouldn’t want to associate with this brand, who would?

P3: I wouldn’t. I don’t know what its trying to sell, jewellery I guess? But that’s definitely not the first thing I look at. I feel

like this would get a lot of backlash in the press.

P5: Yeah, if this was a brand I shopped at regularly I’d probably second guess myself. I don’t like the message, they don’t

seem to have edited it which I guess is nice but like, there’s better ways to portray that message. I don’t like it. 78

P2: I would probably turn my nose up at the campaign but long term, I’m not sure it would stop me purchasing from them. It
definitely doesn’t encourage me to purchase from them though.
Josie: Okay thanks guys, so that’s all the questions I have for you today. Has anyone got any questions or anything they’d
like to add?
P1 – P5: No
Josie: Okay great, thank you so much for your help today you’ve given me some really interesting points. If any issues come
up you’ve got my email so feel free to get in touch! Thanks guys, have a nice day!

Appendices 2.1 Focus Group B

Focus Group Transcript: 01/05/2020
Group B
Location: Cambridge, UK via Zoom
Group Leader: Josie Taylor (Student at NTU) [J]
Participants: 4 UK Females Aged 18 – 21 [P1 – P4]
J: Hi everyone, I just wanted to start by thanking you all for participating in this focus group today, especially under the current
circumstances. So the purpose of todays focus group is to discuss your experiences as female consumers within the streetwear
market and your perception of the representation of women in the market through visual marketing. I know you’re all big
fans of streetwear so I’m looking forward to hearing what you have to say. This shouldn’t last too long, and I just wanted to
make sure you’re all aware of your rights as participants within this group. You’ve all received and sent back to me the consent
form, but just to remind you that anything you say within this discussion today will remain anonymous and confidential, used
only for the purpose of my dissertation. You have the right at any time to remove yourself from the discussion, and if you feel
uncomfortable about anything we have discussed you can contact me through the email I’ve provided you. Is that okay with
everyone? Any questions?
P1 – 4: No problems
J: Okay great. So to start I’d like to know a little bit about your history as streetwear consumers, how did you become interested
in streetwear?
P1: I’ll be honest, I got into the whole streetwear vibe really recently. I saw a lot of bits on depop and then my friend told me
about the basement group. I’ve always been aware of the products cos of like Kanye and Travis, but yeah only started buying
stuff for myself in the last few months.
P2: My guy mates really got me into it. When I came to Uni my flatmates were typical hypebeast boys, so it was kind of hard to
ignore the whole idea of it and I slowly became really invested in the style.
P3: My friends were a big influence for me as well, that and music but they’ve both already been mentioned. I guess its that way
for a lot of people as traditionally the big streetwear influences were music artists, they’re connected I guess.
P4: Music for sure. It started that way at least but I think as its become more mainstream there’s tons of people who influence me
now. Leo Mandella is paving the way I think.
Josie: It’s interesting to hear just how much music influences everyone in their style, obviously there’s traditional links between
the two but its quite nice to see that originitality still existing today. Would you say there’s any female influencers who inspire
you?

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P2: Erm, I’ll need a minute to think, I can’t think of any that stand out
P1: I’m having a hard time as well, there’s definitely some in the market but not that directly influence me. You know Billie
Eillish is doing bits for the market, I think a lot of typical Instagram influencers are jumping on the hype a little as well.
P3: I feel like the image of streetwear is a lot more relaxed for women than it is for men. That doesn’t make much sense, but
when I think of streetwear on guys I think Supreme, Stussy. For women, I don’t think its as much about the brands, there’s not
the pressure on it at least.
P4: I understand what you mean. I personally care about the brands, but guys typically generally do a lot more. I can’t
imagine any of my girl mates queuing out for a drop but tons of my guys do it all the time and I don’t blink an eye. So yeah
for me its more just general Instagram influencers that inspire my style.
Josie: Okay thanks guys, some interesting points there. From a more practical perspective, as consumers do you feel
influenced by visual marketing when it comes to making purchase decisions?
P3: Absolutely. It’s like every aspect of the fashion industry and for me I get so invested by what brands do creatively. I’m
always looking for a brand that’s doing something innovative visual wise.
P4: I enjoy it, a lot, but I don’t know if it makes me purchase an item or not. Maybe, but I don’t realise it at the time, a lot of it
is supposed to be subliminal isn’t it?
P1: I agree I think a lot of it is subliminal, I rarely see an advert and then go and buy something, but it might trigger it off in
my mind and then later on I will go and buy it.
P2: Same here. If I find something interest or creative I will definitely look into the brand, whether I buy something or not is
more down to my personal necessity and preference, although that could be influenced by marketing I guess.
Josie: I understand. So as consumers do you think you would be more likely to purchase from a brand that addresses social
issues such as gender?
P1: 100%. It’s so important in this day and age for brands to take some responsibility. It’s such a big issue and they have the
ability to speak on behalf of us all so if a brand is going to take that action, I feel like I need to encourage it, you know?
P4: Definitely. There’s a lot of debate anyway surrounding the inequality of all these brands with so much money, so for them
to turn a blind eye I think is just asking for a negative response from consumers.
P2: It would definitely encourage me to support the brand, why would I not support a good cause? I do feel like a lot of
brands are doing it now so it would need to be something I really cared about as I don’t have all the money in the world
unfortunately.
P3: Same here. I might not buy something but I will support the brand at the very least, it needs to seem like the brand
though, they can’t just pick a cause out of no where and then abandon it when it’s not trendy anymore, I’ll really pick up on
that and it will put me off supporting them.
Josie: Okay thanks for that guys. For this next section I’m going to share my screen and show a few images used in
campaigns by streetwear brands, and just ask you a few questions about your reactions to the images. Is that okay?
P1 – 4: Yes.
Josie: Okay one second. Can everybody see the screen?
P1 – 5: Yes.
First Image: Supreme
Josie Great so this is the first image. Could you just describe this image to me? What is your first impression?
P4: The first thing I think is woah, like it’s a lot. Photography wise I guess its good but in terms of a brand I’m not sure, it
seems overly sexual with no real meaning, it doesn’t sell me anything.

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P2: Yeah my main feeling from this is just confusion. The picture itself is provocative, and it’s a nice picture but I agree it’s not
selling me anything, other than a woman’s body, which I don’t want.
P1: I agree, I’d describe it as sexual, provocative and minimalistic, I guess? I agree I don’t know what its trying to sell, this
just looks like a standard picture I would see, not like a brand photograph, I don’t even know the brand? Who is it?
Josie: The brand is actually Supreme. How does knowing that make you feel?
P3: That shocks me. Firstly I just expect to see the Supreme logo and I don’t. But nothing in this image says Supreme, there’s
no identity here. The whole position just seems unnecessary, I kinda feel disappointed in them, imagine if they posed a guy in
this way.
P4: They would never pose a guy in this way, that’s the whole issue. This puts me off, like I know Supreme is this big brand
and don’t get me wrong its not going to stop me from buying anything in the future, but seeing the image anonymously, not
knowing the brand, changes my perspective. I didn’t realise I was so bias I guess.
P2: Yeah I’m shocked as well although I guess I shouldn’t be. I feel like this is the typical way we see women within our
market.
Image Two: Hypebeast
Josie: Okay onto picture two . Could you just describe your initial impression of this picture to me?
P1: Wow this is bold, I love the colour palette, that’s the first thing my eyes are drawn to, it feels warm.
P2: That caption is really funny and accurate, I like that a lot. I think we can all relate to that.
P4: Yeah this is good, it’s a bit cringe but its funny and relevant. The colours are great, they give off that retro feel which is
trendy at the moment. The girl looks great as well.
P3: This made me chuckle, even though its talking about a negative topic it makes me feel positive and understood, I like it.
Josie: And how would you feel towards a brand that used imagery within this context?
P1: I’d be intrigued, mainly. I’ve never seen a take on it like this. Again like earlier, I still don’t really know what exactly the
product being sold is, but I feel understood by the brand and like they cater to me so I would definitely check them out.
P4: I agree, its so refreshing to see content like this, I can make jokes amongst my friends but seeing a brand target it is new.
It’s nice to have your voice heard, especially in this market where men are still the main feature.
P2: Same here, I’d definitely be following a brand on Instagram if they did something like this. Its eye-catching and topical in
a cheeky way, like I feel like I’m friends with the girl in that image, like the brand is talking directly to me and gets me.
Image Three: I love Ugly
Josie: Okay onto the last picture guys. How would you describe this one?
P3: My first thought is yikes. It’s a bit domineering isn’t it? She looks great but why is this necessary? Again it is sexual for no
reason.
P4: I’d describe this as sexualised, over-protective, almost toxic? They’re trying to sell a male product, I presume, and using
the women as a side piece to it. It makes me feel cheap.
P2: My first impression is uncomfort. I feel like its disrespectful towards the woman in this image, I’m not sure that was their
intention, I understand what they were trying to do, I just think the close up and position of the hands really throws it off.
Josie: How does this make you feel towards this brand?
P4: Disappointed, mainly. Like what is the need to sexualise women like this? It doesn’t sell to women, and I know men might
enjoy looking at it but they’ll probably look at it for 30 seconds and move on without giving the brand a second thought. It
isn’t selling the product well at all.
P1: I agree the product isn’t being sold right. This would encourage me to go elsewhere if I was considering buying an item

81from this brand. Maybe I need more information on the campaign and the brand, but as a poster I’d see walking down the

P2: I would probably turn my nose up at the campaign but long term, I’m not sure it would stop me purchasing from them. It
definitely doesn’t encourage me to purchase from them though.
Josie: Okay thanks guys, so that’s all the questions I have for you today. Has anyone got any questions or anything they’d
like to add?
P1 – P5: No
Josie: Okay great, thank you so much for your help today you’ve given me some really interesting points. If any issues come
up you’ve got my email so feel free to get in touch! Thanks guys, have a nice day!

Appendices3.0 Survey Results

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Appendices 4.0: Consent Forms

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