BACKINGS - The Quilt Connection

41 Elsanne Street
Aspley Qld 4034
Tel: (07) 3862 8797

BACKINGS

***The backing must be at least 6-8” wider and 4-6” longer than the quilt top measurements***

Each side of a backing should be parallel with its opposite side with right-angled corners.

All machine quilters working with a machine quilting system require a larger size backing. I will explain why
during the initial consultation when my machine is on-hand.

My recommendations:

Fabric Type

- I recommend using only good quality 100% cotton patchwork fabric. Patchwork fabric is
manufactured specifically for that purpose minimising the likelihood of problems occurring such as
fabric shrinkage and the colour runs.

- I don’t recommend sheeting I especially don’t recommend the cotton/polyester blended sheeting.
Some cotton sheeting passes the test but most often sheeting has been woven too tight (high thread
count). When the weave is too tight it can resist the needle of multi-directional machine causing it to
deflect which in turn can cause tension problems.

- Batiks produce beautiful and colourful quilts, however, whilst some Batiks quilt beautifully without a
hitch others cause no end of problems.
I suggest you seek the retailers’ advise as to which Batiks they guarantee will quilt well.

I can happily recommend the wide Batiks sold by Widebacks Australia.

Wide Backings

 Again, I recommend using only good quality 100% cotton fabric. However, if you have picked up a
bargain too good to refuse and it feels very stiff and hard, a good soak and wash in cold water will
usually remove the excess amount of offending finishing product or dye.

 Each side of a backing needs to be parallel to the opposite side with four right-angled corners. The
most effective way to achieve a square or even backing is to tear the edges rather than rotary cut to
size, especially when the whole backing is over 2 metres in width or length.
Fabric will only tear on the straight grains (see Fabric Grains) whereas when the fabric is folded
crooked the cut will be crooked.

 To eliminate fabric waste, it is best to tear or rip a wide backing off the bolt or roll.

The full length of extra wide backing fabric is folded
once and then folded again before the
manufacturer’s machine wraps it onto a bolt or rolls
it onto a roll. The wrapping or rolling can become
crooked during this process and this can cause
distortion of the length. When a folded length is cut
from these rolls or bolts the cut edge will be
crooked. Trimming will be necessary to straighten
the fabric and so an allowance should be added to
the calculated length of backing required.



 I believe a stronger quilt will be achieved if the lengthwise grain of the backing fabric is vertically

aligned to the quilt top. (see Fabric Grains)

Seaming-up backings
1. Remove all selvages – selvages

are the tightly woven section found
at the side edge of all fabric.
Selvages are woven very tightly
and will shrink. Dressmakers are
taught to remove all selvages
before cutting out the garment. This
same rule applies for patchwork.

2. Tear the lengths of fabric with a
quick rip, to ensure they are
straight. If the tear has caused the
edge to stretch or flare, either
steam press it back into shape or
cut it off.

3. Pin before you sew. This is important when stitching long lengths of fabric together. Use the ‘halve
and quarter’ method to be sure the lengths are matched and sewn together evenly.

4. Match the thread colour to the darker coloured fabric.

5. Sew using slightly less than an average stitch length or a very small zigzag stitch. Make sure the
machine tension is set correctly. I recommend using a walking foot so that both fabrics feed through
the sewing machine evenly.

6. Either use a ½” seam allowance pressed open, or a ¼” seam allowance pressed to one side. I prefer
the ½” seam allowance when the quilt is to be reversed because less seam bulk will be visible.

7. If more than one full width of fabric is required I recommend spreading the seams away from the
centre of the backing. For example: if two lengths are required, rather than have a seam in the
middle of the backing cut one width lengthways and put one half on either side of the full width. This
will create a backing with two seams away from the centre of the backing. Not only is this a stronger
backing it will produce one that pleases the eye.

8. When planning the backing ensure that any seams are positioned a safe distance inside or outside
the parameter edge of the quilt. This will avoid having the extra bulk of a seam allowance fall on the
edge where the quilt is to be bound.

9. Consider the pattern of the fabric especially if the pattern is repeated in rows and you are piecing
long lengths of the fabric. Viewing a quilt from the base of a bed, a crooked pattern repeat will be
most obvious.

10. I guarantee the backing will be evenly positioned
in relation to the quilt. Please ensure all pieces or
strips of fabric are cut straight before piecing into
a quilt backing. Especially if a ‘strippy’ type
backing is planned using striped fabric or fabric
involving a pattern stripe.

11. Please also try as much as possible, to position
all fabric pieces are joined with the lengthwise
grain going in the same direction, preferably
vertical to the quilt top. This will ensure a strong
and stable backing.

FABRIC GRAIN

Do you know the difference between the lengthwise grain and crosswise grain of a fabric?

It is just as important to be aware of the differences between the grains of fabric when piecing a backing as it
is when piecing the patches of a quilt top.

Before explaining the difference between the grains of a fabric, I need to describe how fabric is
manufactured.

First, long threads called Warp threads are stretched and secured to a loom. These threads continue along
the full length of fabric and make the Lengthwise grain.

Other threads, known as Weft threads are then interwoven over and under these secured lengthwise threads
travelling from side to side on the loom and these threads become the Crosswise grain.
(It’s easy to remember which is the weft thread if you remember it rhymes with ‘left’ and goes from left to
right and right to left)

These Weft threads are very tightly woven for about ½” at the sides of the loom where they turn. This tightly
woven section stabilise the edges of the weave while the weaving takes place and it is this tightly woven ½”
that forms the fabric selvage.

The fabric Bias is found at a 45-degree angle to the straight grains.

Here’s a little experiment to help you realise the difference between the lengthwise grain and the crosswise
grain:

- Cut a small square of patchwork fabric. Grip this piece of fabric so that your hands are on opposite
sides and tug. Now do the same gripping test with the other two sides. You will have noticed a
difference.

When a fabric is tugged from side to side on the Crosswise grain there will be a slight stretch or ‘give’. When
tugged across the Lengthwise Grain there will be very little or no ‘give’ at all. This Lengthwise Grain is the
most stable and therefore the strongest grain in relation to a quilt backing.

For the overall stability of a quilt, I recommend positioning the backing so that the lengthwise grain is vertical
to the quilt top, especially if the backing is to be used on a wall quilt.

I make these recommendations because I want my clients to receive the best possible service for the best
possible price.
Happy quilt-making.

Barb Cowan
Tel: (07) 38628797