LUCKNOW

CONTEMPORARY DESIGNERS

MUZAFFAR ALI AND MEERA ALI
Kotwara, an international couture brand, crafted by filmmaker, painter, Muzaffar Ali – the Raja
of Kotwara, and his architect wife Meera Ali was established in 1990 to revive the traditional
craft of the region of Awadh, India, through sensitively understanding its ethos, upgrading
its design content and modern day universal relevance in its application. Innovations from
Kotwara are based on forms inspired by different craft techniques expressed in a variety of
different ways and silhouettes. Zarozi, mukaish badla work and Chikankari has been the forte
of Kotwara.
RITIKA MALHOTRA
Ritika Malhotra is a well known fashion designer based in New Delhi. she draws inspiration
from the world around her. Ritika Malhotra loves to create semi-formal evening wear, with a
strong focus on comfort and the use of high quality fabrics. Her western designs, are simple
and minimalistic, with no compromise on elegance. A reflection of what she would like to wear.
Keeping in sync with the simplicity, her Indian Collection draws inspiration from the styles of
the Mughal era to create regal Indian dresses with subtle embroideries using Mukaish badla
work, gold threads, Zaris, aarii, beads and stones.

51

GLOSSARY

Adda wooden frame, where 4 -5 people can sit together.
Araz width of fabric
Badla silver or golden metal wire.
Bel bootey Motifs and patterns
Bhakhiya herringbone stich.
Bhari kaam Intricate Work
chalu kaam fancy Work
Chapai printing
Charak starch
Chikankari herringbone embroidery
Cowrie shell
Daraz appliqué work in lucknow
Dukandaar Shopkeeper
Ghaghra Gathered skirt
Ghutai mixing
Gudai piercing
Hazara butti thousand small motifs
Kaamdani satin stitch done by wire
Karigars craftmens
Kaarkhana workshop
Kaarkhandaar workers
Kaarchob wooden frame
Kaudi shell
Khaka perforated stencil paper
Lachchi Bunch of wires
Madda Slack season

52

Meenakari detailing
Mukesh tiny small dot, done by metal wire
Naksha design on paper
Neel blue powder
Patta leaf
Phuchar printing
Putai paint
Quran religious book in muslim religeon.
Sahalak Busy season
Saandha Milana for continuous pattern
Safeda white chawlk powder.
Saree draped cloth.
Shamiana cloth shelter, for geathring.
Shore ka tezaab kerosine oil
Siyahi animal
Taar wire
Tukri ka kaam patch ka kaam
Turpai hemming
Basti slum area.
Bazaars market.
Sheermal sweet bread
Zamidaars Landlords

53

REFERNCES

WEBPAGE
http://www.utsavpedia.com/motifs-embroideries/mukesh-mukeish/
http://www.lucknow.org.uk/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucknow
http://www.tornosindia.com/lucknow-calligraphy/
http://www.dsource.in/resource/
http://awadh.in/category/history-of-awadh/
http://lucknowrevisited.blogspot.in/2007/02/lucknow-brief-look-into-past.html
BOOKS
Ranjan, Aditi and Ranjan (2007) Handmade in India, Mapin Publishing,
Reprint March 1,2014
Usha Shrikant (2005), Ethnic Embroidery of India - I. New Delhi, Om Books

54