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Published by mutimedia 123, 2019-10-04 01:52:46

burp

your monthly dose of dishes

ISSUE 1, VOL 1, JUL 2019 RRss..119900

BURP.ISSUE1,VOL1,JUL2019

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Marco Pierre White

does the formidable chef live up
to his rock-star reputation?

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2

Letter from editor

Welcome to the latest issue of BURP.We’ve invited friends over for dinner
tonight, and I’m standing in the kitchen of an Airbnb in St. Helena,
California, surveying my temporary work space. The pockmarked nonstick
skillets here look like they lived their best lives in the late 1990s, around the
last time the knives were sharpened.
Cooking feels a bit ambitious. Why even sweat it? We could always order
pizza instead. Still, the grill works, and there’s a farmers market nearby, so
I go there, grab a taco, and walk the stalls for inspiration. A boneless leg of
lamb from a local producer looks good and can anchor the meal. Progress.
I grab some greens for sautéing, a bunch of purple torpedo onions, and the
last of the green garlic and garlic scapes, too. Okay, I think. We have a dinner
game plan.
Back in the kitchen, I find a blender that whirs just fast enough to puree the
green garlic, scapes, and tender rosemary and thyme with capers, anchovies,
Dijon mustard, and olive oil to make a pungent marinade for the lamb. Later
in the afternoon, I’ll sear the lamb on the grill, then lower the heat to slowly
roast it to medium-rare, and let it rest on a platter for 30 minutes once our
friends arrive. Finally, I sauté the greens with the onions, garlic, and chile
flakes softened in olive oil, and I stir in lemon juice and a can of drained
white beans.
On four plates I arrange grill-charred naan from the supermarket and slick
each piece with a store-bought garlicky almond spread (hummus or yogurt
would do, too). I lay rosy slices of lamb on each naan and spoon juices from
the platter over the top, then add mounds of the sautéed greens and beans.
We open local bottles of Napa Valley rosé and Syrah to go with the knife-
and-fork lamb tartines and take it all outside to the porch where the kids are
eating, well, pizza.
At this point on the summer clock, the abundance of fresh, seasonal
ingredients sometimes outweighs the willpower to cook them, especially
when we’re on vacation or stupefied by the heat and humidity. With that
in mind, we’ve engineered this issue to aid your late-summer cooking and
entertaining with dishes that deliver big flavor without a lot of fuss. Whether
you’re looking for an excellent new rib recipe, hearty dinner salads, or an idea
for what to do with all of that squash, we invite you to treat these pages like a
walk through the farmers market and pick what looks good to you.
Warmly,
Advaith Mahesh
Editor-in-chief

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CONTENTS

Pg.6 The things we love about Japanese Food
8Pg. (Cover Story)

Marco Pierre White: does the formidable chef live
up to his rock-star reputation?

15Pg.

Interview With JITIN JOSHI

20Pg.The Best Burgers In NYC
Pg. 25Notable Summer No-Cook Pasta of the month

5

6

7

Photo by David Wright

Things we love about
japanese food

Japanese food is refined and elegant, its
preparation and presentation honed over
the centuries so that its flavours are pure

and delicate. Like many of the world’s
highly developed cuisines, Japanese food

celebrates and highlights the flavours,
textures and colours of seasonal produce.

The first produce of the season is prized.

8

Indeed, the connection with than any other cuisine, the raw pro- of cooking techniques – a likely
nature is one of the defining duce is paramount. combination is a mix of raw food,
hallmarks of Japanese food. dressed food such as salads or cold
Where possible, food is eaten in as As well as exquisite flavour, dressed noodles known as aemo-
natural a state as possible, as fresh visual beauty is an essential ele- no, deep fried (agemono), steamed
as possible, as this is considered the ment; the type of plate or dish is as (mushimono), one-pot (nabemo-
ultimate way to eat. Fresh fish and important as what is on it. no), simmered (nimono), soups
shellfish are eaten raw (sashimi) (suimonoor shirumono), vinegared
or lightly pickled with vinegar or The Japanese have also perfect- (sunomono), glazed (teriyaki style)
salt. Likewise, produce is often only ed the concept of negative space; and pickled (tsukemono).
lightly cooked and what and how where the empty parts of a serv-
people cook is highly influenced by ing platter serve to emphasise the
the seasons. beauty of the food placed on it.The
health aspects of food are not to
To further enhance the puri- be underestimated; part of the
ty of the food, Japanese cooking attraction of buckwheat noodles,
rarely mixes different food types, for instance, is also the knowledge
and sauces are normally served in they have a beneficial effect on the
separate dishes as dipping condi- body. The main flavourings are
ments. This is in contrast to many dashi stock (made from seaweed in
other cuisines, where long slow the form of dried kelp called konbu
cooking and the addition of many and/or bonito fish in the form of
spices are common, so that the shavings of the smoked dried fish),
final dish becomes something quite shoyu or soy sauce, and miso made
removed from the raw ingredients. from soybeanpaste.
In Japanese cooking, perhaps more A full Japanese banquet aims to
tease the taste buds by using a range

Many devotees
of Japanese food
speak of the
importance of
clean flavours and
simplicity.

Photo by Evgen Turchin
9

Marco Pierre White: does the
formidable chef live up to his
rock-star reputation?

written by Lee Winston

Following the launch of Mr White’s
English Chophouse in Whitechapel,
Luxury London speaks to Britain’s
original rockstar super chef about
game-changing gastronomy and the
legacy of White Heat.

10

Photo by Violet Lang
11

Sitting in Marco Pierre I’m almost disappointed. I wanted
White’s plush country to meet the man of legend, not
hotel, the Rudloe Arms, this reflective, courteous person
I wonder if the chef sitting before me. “The truth
can sense my unease. is I rarely venture out in public

Not because he’s particularly unless I’m working,” he says.

intimidating – that expectation Today he abstains from tobacco,

proves totally unfounded – but alcohol and most other worldly

because it has all been said before. pleasures – White reborn as a

White’s arrival with £7.36 in his virtuous agoraphobe? That may

pocket at gastronomic legend be overstating the case, although

Le Gavroche (he was 16), training White rarely eats out for pleasure

under Pierre Koffman at La Tante and “won’t be seen at your local

Claire, winning three Michelin stars theatre or cinema,” he points out.

at the age of 33, and then giving

them back when he hung up his We could go on like this all day, but

chef’s whites in 1999 to become I’m keen to return to the glory days

a restaurateur – how one can of the first edition of White Heat,

possibly broach new territory with and running some of London’s most

someone who has already been celebrated eateries – including his

cross-examined so many times? eponymous restaurant, first at the

Hyde Park Hotel, then at the Oak

White, however, makes it Room at Le Meridien Piccadilly.

surprisingly easy. His opening Does he regret his decision to give it

speech presents a reality that is all up in 1999?

at stark odds with the ingrained

media image of the bad-boy chef, “Not for one second,” comes

aggressively ejecting patrons the quick reply. “I was sick of

from his restaurants and prone to being judged by people with

hammy tantrums. Marco Pierre less knowledge than me, it was

White, it seems, is here to set the ludicrous. And, the truth is that

record straight. winning three stars is intensely

exciting, but maintaining them is the

“This popular image of the enfant most boring thing in the world.”

terrible chef is entertaining, but

inaccurate,” says White. “I’m actually He remembers with great fondness,

quite a boring person. Moreover, however, Michael Lawson of the

do you think I could have survived Box Tree in Ilkley, West Yorkshire,

in this business for so long if I was whom he cites as having the most

that unstable and tempestuous?” important influence on his culinary

Ironically, he blames his seminal style. Initially opened as a tea room

cookbook and memoir, White Heat, in 1962, the Box Tree went on to

for keeping the myth alive. become one of the first four British

restaurants to win two Michelin

Nevertheless, White admits he did stars in 1977, when Lawson was

eject patrons on occasion, “but only head chef. Surely White misses

because they were either being some aspects of those days? After

obnoxious to the staff or other all, at the height of his gastronomic

diners.” Which is quite reasonable. career, Oak Room Marco Pierre

As for the legendary incident White was considered London’s

involving cutting the jacket and best restaurant. “It doesn’t mean

trousers of a young chef who had much to me,” he says. “It’s not

complained about the heat in the important. It’s a part of my life that’s

kitchen, White retorts: “Yes, that been and gone.”

happened, but after all these years

the person in question still works for I’m hoping for more, though.

me. So it clearly wasn’t as traumatic Particularly after White concedes

for him as people like to believe.” that he was “monstrously unhappy”

12

during his younger days, still “Pain, though, can But if all this sounds just a bit
mourning the death of his Italian also be a source of too anodyne for the UK’s most
mother, Maria-Rosa Gallina, who strength. All great charismatic chef, don’t worry. White
died of a brain hemorrhage when he artists – chefs, may play down the enfant terrible
was six. “When I see those pictures musicians, painters persona, but he clearly hasn’t
[in White Heat], I just see that I was – are idealists, and lost his infamous bite. On Gordon
very unhappy and in great pain. idealists usually Ramsay, who studied under White
That’s the only emotional impact carry great pain and whom he once made cry:
it has on me today. Work was a around with them. But “Technically accomplished cooking
painkiller; it was where I hid.” properly managed, that lacks any soul. He’s the Darcey
that pain can lead to Bussell of the culinary world.”
He continues: great things.” White’s take on the Michelin
guide: “In my day you had to prove
Today, multiple ventures place consistency, whereas today
demands on his time – restaurateur, chefs are awarded stars almost
ambassador for Knorr stock, author, immediately after the restaurant
television personality, White is opens. Singapore, for example, has
also a familiar face on the P&O far too many Michelin stars – I’ve
cruise line. “My work for P&O is lost all respect for the guide.”
actually something I look forward
to the most,” he says. “It allows me White also upset members
to interact with people who are of England’s wine community
genuinely interested in learning recently when he opined
more about food, in the most that English sparkling wine is
pleasant of settings.” ridiculously overpriced, adding

photo Archive Pegi

13

“Family, music and that he couldn’t justify selling “I guess photos can be intrusive,”
my work give me it at his restaurants, especially he concedes thoughtfully. “In the
all the satisfaction when the quality doesn’t end, it’s all about context. Does your
I crave now. All rival that of champagne. behaviour adversely affect other
else is window diners? If that happens, then, yes,
dressing.” Time passes all too quickly during any restaurant owner should take
our conversation, but I snatch a final action.” This dilemma is largely
14 question before we wrap things irrelevant to White, who rarely
up – what does he think about the ventures into any restaurant, never
Roux family’s decision to ban diners mind Michelin-starred venues, for
taking from taking photographs fun.
at the three-Michelin-starred
Waterside Inn? “Contemporary Michelin food is a
conveyor belt of bite-size courses,
“Dining out should not be like going usually served cold,”
to church. If people are celebrating
a special occasion, to deny them
a photograph is ludicrous – I think
Michel’s going to have to rethink
this one.” But if you feel so liberal
about phone usage in public spaces,
Marco, why do you continue to resist
the allure of a smartphone? White
still proudly owns an ancient Nokia.
And he admits that he threw people
out of his own restaurant for what he
felt was “rude behaviour”.

photo by albert j morrison

“Work was a
painkiller; it was

where I hid


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Interview With Sajjid Mitha: Was food always
your passion or did you start
JITIN JOSHI off with something else and
became a chef by accident?
Executive Chef At Taj dubai Jitin Joshi: As a child, I always
wanted to be a doctor. The first book
During our stay at Taj Dubai, the that I ever bought was a first-aid
hotel’s Executive Chef, Jitin Joshi book in 1984. I loved biology so
and I had a brief conversation. much that it was all I ever studied.
Here are excerpts from our chat. But since I neglected other subjects,
I couldn’t get through any of the
entrance exams.
I was devastated and had lost
all motivation. Then one thing
led to another, and I ended up at
ITM, Ahmedabad. After studying
hospitality for 3 years, I got a job at
OCLD, Oberoi School where I was
trained in various aspects of cuisine.
After graduating in 1999, I was
posted at Rajvilas. It’s a beautiful

17

property. And from your blog, I know After a year at Maze, I joined Atul on what Chef Morimoto
you’ve been there. When I read your Kocchar. Back then, he had just prepares at Wasabi. We felt
blog, it brought back many memories started a new restaurant, Banaras. that it was even better than
as that’s where I met my wife. I went on-board with him in the one we had at Wasabi.
Soon after, I got a lead to work in a 2006 and a year later, we got the Jitin: Yes, he is a very talented
2-Michelin-starred restaurant in Michelin star! We built a great bond boy. You made my day by
London under a French chef called because of it and even opened a comparing my apprentice with
Eric Chavot. There was a lot pressure restaurant together in a vineyard someone like Sir Morimoto.
as everything had to be perfect and I in South England. It was my dream Sajjid: So, how many
was the only Indian in the brigade. restaurant – a stunning location, restaurants do you look over
Thereafter, I worked as Head Pastry using local produce, fifty-seater and at the Taj Dubai?
Chef at a French restaurant in very high-end. Jitin: I am managing three
London – Maze by Gordon Ramsey. I Then a year and a half ago, I got restaurants, two lounges, a night
worked closely with Jason Atherton an opportunity with Taj. This is venue, in-room dining, banquet,
w ho is now a global phenomenon. my first role as an Executive Chef and the poolside restaurant.
Sajjid: Have you worked with with a globally renowned brand. Some of our finest restaurants are
Gordon Ramsey? I didn’t want to miss this golden Tesoro, Bombay Brasserie, and
Jitin: No doubt, it is he who is the opportunity. Eloquent Elephant.
one who is world famous but he Sajjid: Laveena and I were Sajjid: So, do you have any
wouldn’t come into the kitchen as very impressed with the plans for the future? Maybe
often as Jason would. But I did have food Chef Nilesh prepared. I set up a standalone Michelin
the privilege of interacting with him believe he has trained under star restaurant of your own?
once every week or so. you. We had the black cod
yesterday, which had a twist

“Sharing

is Caring”

18

Jitin: I am completely committed and tomato and add crushed Jitin: I would advise every chef to
to the Taj. However, as a chef coriander seeds to them, the do their homework and understand
who’s gone through the Michelin result is an Indian kadai sauce. their customers. If a chef has to
madness, it’s my dream to own a If I blanche the tomatoes, de- choose between authenticity and
Michelin star restaurant one day. seed them, use a bit of olive oil, popularity, I feel that popularity
It’s exactly how an Olympian would crushed coriander seeds, lemon takes priority. Your food may be
feel about winning a gold medal. juice, parsley, salt and pepper, authentic but if it doesn’t attract
Everyone loves to see a full dining then that’s French. customers then you’ll go out of
room, happy customers and get If I puree the tomatoes and cook business. However, if your food is
good reviews. But a Michelin star is them with some oregano and popular but not authentic, people
beyond all that. I’d get a tattoo if I garlic paste, what you get is pasta will still visit your restaurant. I’d
get a Michelin star and take it to the sauce Italian. suggest working on establishing
ground when I die! That’s how I feel Using the same three basic your name first and then innovate
about it. ingredients, I can make different your food. Being creative with your
Sajjid: With the worldwide cuisines. So, when you ask me what food is good, but there’s no point if
experience you have and your my specialty is, I’d say that I know it isn’t popular.
repertoire of cooking, which my ingredients, and what to do with
cuisine do you feel you are them is up to me.
best at Jitin? Sajjid: What would you
Jitin: I have used this example advise young chefs who are
a couple of times:Tomato, garlic passionate about getting into
and chilly are three ingredients. the business of cooking?
If I cook the chilly, garlic

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The Best Burgers In NYC

The best burgers in NYC, according to us.

Written by
Bryan Kim, Katherine Lewin, Hillary Reinsberg, & Matt Tervooren

This wasn’t an easy list to make. Whole days were spent in conference
rooms with no food or water and no one going in or out until rankings
were decided upon. And while some of that might be an exaggeration,
you should know that we have eaten a lot of burgers and we are, in fact,
burger experts. Trust us when we say that you’ll want to know what

1every single one of these tastes like.
Emily We can’t tell you what’s actually on
Emily’s burger (without re-reading
Burger Pizza in Brooklyn, our review, but that would be
Clinton Hill cheating). And that’s because you
don’t experience the Emmy Burger
22 as ingredients.

Diner 2

American in The best thing here is the one thing
Williamsburg that never changes: the burger. It’s
a thick but not too-thick piece of
meat with sharp cheese, a soft bun,
and thick, crispy fries. You could
split it with someone,
but please don’t.

23

3

charles prime rib Au Cheval makes the best burger
in Chicago, and one of the best
American, Burgers, Steaks in in the country. The same people
West Village are making a similar burger at
4 Charles Prime Rib in the West
24 Village. It has two patties, tons of
cheese, a bunch of sauce, and a bun
that soaks it all up.

4emmy squared
American, Burgers,Pizza in
Williamsburg
Le Big Matt Burger at Emmy
Squared is the fraternal twin to
the Emmy Burger at Emily. It has
two thinner patties instead of one
big one, American cheese instead
of cheddar, pickles, and spicy sauce
- all on that insanely good pretzel
bun you only find at the Emily
establishments.

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Notable
Summer
No-Cook
Pasta of
the month

Spaghetti with Tuna, Tomatoes, and Olives

This fresh take on tuna pasta salad is just as good warm as it
is straight out of the refrigerator.

Yields 6 servings

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Ingredients

1 pint cherry tomatoes Preparation
(preferably Sun Gold), halved

6 ounces olive oil-packed Italian
or Spanish tuna, drained.

1/2 cup black olives,
pitted, torn
(about 2 ounces)

1/2 cup chopped
fresh parsley

1 teaspoon freshly
ground black pepper

3 tablespoons
extra-virgin olive oil,
plus more to taste

1 teaspoon kosher salt,plus
more to taste

1 pound thin spaghetti

1 tablespoon fresh
lemon juice

Combine tomatoes, tuna, olives, parsley, pepper, 3 Tbsp.
oil, and 1 tsp. salt in a large bowl.
Cook spaghetti in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring
occasionally, until al dente.
Drain and add to tomato mixture. Stir vigorously and add
more oil as needed to fully coat. Season with salt.
Transfer pasta to a serving bowl or platter. Drizzle with lemon j
uice and serve.

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