NEEDLE FREE THE TECH ALTERNATIVES TO SURGERY ACID TEST EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT GLYCOLIC SALON OWNERS SHARE THEIR TIPS FOR REDUCING COSTS AND ENERGY USE cut Make the AT THE HEART OF THE SPA AND SALON BUSINESS November 2022 | professionalbeauty.co.uk
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5 professionalbeauty.co.uk CONTENTS IN THIS ISSUE 11 News MPs launch investigation into value of complementary therapies; how the Government’s budget will affect beauty businesses 29 Professionalbeauty.co.uk What the industry’s been talking about online 33 Insider Monthly stats to help salons and spas benchmark their businesses 39 Ward’s World Hellen Ward explains how to tackle price increases while keeping clients happy 43 Ask the experts Everything you need to know about azelaic acid, nail photography and more 78 Treatment news The latest treatment offerings and our verdict on two bespoke facials 82 New products Launches from Sothys, Dermalogica, Gellux and more 88 Q&A Aston and Fincher’s Claire Lebrun talks industry trends and the complete rebrand of Hara 54 Under the skin How technologies such as radiofrequency, microneedling and LED therapy can replicate the effects of invasive treatments – with minimal downtime 70 Save your salon money The experts share their top tips for cutting costs during the cost-of-living crisis, from marketing to getting your team involved 74 Spotlight on… glycolic acid The first instalment of our acids series explores how glycolic acid works, what skin concerns it can treat and how to use it in treatments Regulars Features 25 Take a chance Why you need to enter the Professional Beauty Awards 2023 49 Talking to… Millie Kendall The beauty industry leader discusses regulation and the latest trends 58 Tight fit Eight of the best radiofrequency devices for firm and rejuvenated skin 62 Does skin cycling work? Skin experts explain this TikTok trend’s benefits 64 Reuniting the industry Everything that happened at Professional Beauty North 2022 58 Top nail talent The winners of the PB North Nail Competition NEEDLE FREE THE TECH ALTERNATIVES TO SURGERY ACID TEST EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT GLYCOLIC SALON OWNERS SHARE THEIR TIPS FOR REDUCING COSTS AND ENERGY USE cut Make the AT THE HEART OF THE SPA AND SALON BUSINESS November 2022 | professionalbeauty.co.uk COVER: IMAGE FROM THE NEW DREAM INITIATIVE (SEE PAGE 18) On the cover
6 EDITOR’S COMMENT @Pro_Beauty01 @Pro_Beauty /ProfessionalBeautyUK /1ProBeauty With the cost of running a business still rising, there have been a few new measures introduced by the Government to help ease the strain (see page 12). However, almost all respondents to our beauty and spa Insider surveys said that the Government needs to do more to help our sector specifically. Read that and more exclusive industry statistics from page 33. While beauty and spa businesses undoubtedly have a higher level of energy consumption than most, there are still some measures that can be taken to cut costs during these challenging times. From negotiating with suppliers at all levels to swaps that allow you to save money without scrimping on luxuries, you can pick up some expert tips in our money-saving special feature on page 70. Of course, one way to counteract the effects of rising costs is to put your own prices up, a move that many salon owners find awkward to navigate. But as British Beauty Council chief executive Millie Kendall says in our interview on page 49, “We need to be very aware of not downgrading our pricing to the point of it being a detriment to our business, so know your worth.” It’s a sentiment that Hellen Ward echoes in her column on page 39, where she shares some tried-and-tested advice on how often to implement an increase, what percentage to go up by and how to communicate it to your clients. Some treatments that are easier to charge a little more for include advanced tech-led facials, and our feature on page 54 looks at how some of these technologies can come close to replicating the effects of more invasive treatments, allowing you to target a wider market. Staying on top of consumer trends can also help you access new clients and our TikTok Truths series continues this month with the expert take on skin cycling – how it works, when to advise against it, and why everyone’s been talking about it. Find out on page 62. Subscriptions enquiries: 01371 851875 [email protected] Editorial enquiries: 020 7351 0536 [email protected] Advertising enquiries: 020 7351 0536 Editor & head of editorial: Eve Oxberry [email protected] Deputy editor: Kezia Parkins [email protected] Content writers: Ellen Cummings [email protected] Lollie Hancock [email protected] Design and production: Steven Dando [email protected] Sales director: Steve James [email protected] 020 7349 4791 Account managers: Alaina Alger [email protected] 020 3841 7375 Peter Bishop [email protected] 020 3841 7364 Matt Crane [email protected] 020 3841 7367 Jack Diamond [email protected] 020 7349 4792 Nur Tanyeri [email protected] 020 7349 4796 Publisher: Mark Moloney [email protected] Head of marketing: Chloe Monina [email protected] Marketing executive: Camille Polge [email protected] INSURANCE Get Professional Beauty Direct insurance cover from just £52.50 a year or £72.25 a year with your subscription. Professional Nails Direct starts at just £39.50. You can now book and manage your insurance online at professional beautydirect.co.uk or call the team on 0345 605 8670 MEMBERSHIPS Membership benefits when you subscribe to the magazine Gold Membership UK: £37; Europe: £59; outside Europe: £67.50 To receive your copy of Professional Beauty every month call 01371 851875 or visit hairandbeauty.escosubs.co.uk To view full issues on your desktop, tablet or smartphone, see mag.professionalbeauty.co.uk Published by Trades Exhibitions Ltd The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser whose advertisement is published in Professional Beauty. Anyone dealing with advertisers must make their own enquiries. Professional Beauty Group, Allington House, 25 High Street, Wimbledon, London SW19 5DX Editor
11 professionalbeauty.co.uk NEWS A cross-party group of MPs has launched an investigation into the value of complementary therapies in supporting physical and mental health and wellbeing and taking pressure off the NHS. Co-chaired by Carolyn Harris MP and Judith Cummins MP, the All-Party Parliamentary Group on Beauty and Wellbeing (APPG BAW), will explore how complementary therapies can support both health and the economy. The Group has launched a call for written evidence to understand: • The value the sector brings to the UK’s economy and society • How complementary treatments can play a preventative role in supporting people’s health and wellbeing, or support those with existing health conditions • How the NHS can be better integrated with the sector • Skills gap facing the industry and how we can attract talent • How has the pandemic changed demand • How to ensure the long-term growth of the sector and ensure those that work in it are able to make a good wage. During summer and autumn, the APPG invited sector experts to give oral evidence. Having collected evidence, the MPs will present a call to action to Government with recommendations for how to support the sector’s future. The deadline for call for evidence submissions is midnight on November 11. Carolyn Harris MP and Judith Cummins MP said, “Great steps have been made to secure the beauty industry greater recognition in Parliament and Government; however, the value of complementary therapies in supporting everyone’s health is not being adequately recognised. “We look forward to receiving representations from across the industry as we seek to make recommendations to the Government.” Information on how to submit responses and eveidence is available at baw-appg.com MPs launch investigation to prove value of complementary therapies New research has revealed that just under two thirds (59%) of Brits don’t know whether their chosen beauty professional is insured, or even qualified. 1,000 female beauty consumers were surveyed as part of the launch of Salon Rated, a new platform from the founder of tools brand Navy Professional, to help consumers in the UK find professional, qualified hair and beauty service providers. The survey also showed that most consumers use social media to find a new beauty professional, with 87% turning to Instagram and 48% relying on word of mouth. With the beauty industry lacking regulation, consumers should be doing some form of research before booking a treatment, but three fifths (60%) admitted they don’t know how to do a background check on salons before making appointments. A further 75% were not even aware that the beauty industry is currently unregulated. 63% also admitted to having no idea what products their beauty professionals use, and almost half (43%) have never received any type of aftercare advice from their salon. 59% of Brits don’t know whether their beauty therapist is qualified or insured
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12 professionalbeauty.co.uk NEWS Licensing for non-invasive cosmetic procedures: latest update While there is still no published timeline for when licences for cosmetic procedures will come in to force, the Joint Council for Cosmetic Procedures (JCCP) has said in a statement, “The consultation on which procedures are to be covered by the new licensing scheme is likely to begin in the early New Year.” It added, “It is anticipated that a further consultation will then follow on the licensing of premises later in 2023.” The statement said the new licensing scheme is likely to include highstreet cosmetic treatments which can cause serious harm when not carried out correctly or in a safe environment: “The scheme must at least cover injectable toxins, dermal fillers, vitamin infusions, platelet-rich plasma replacement therapy, cogs and threads, cryolipolysis, sclerotherapy, invasive chemical peels, a range of laser and light procedures and hair restoration surgery,” the update said. What the Government’s Energy Bill Relief Scheme and mini-budget mean for beauty businesses The Government’s new Energy Bill Relief Scheme and minibudget were both announced in late September, bringing changes for spa and beauty businesses. The Energy Bill Relief Scheme will compare estimated energy supplier bills against a baseline the Government has set, with businesses eligible for a discount on the difference. The Governmentsupported price has been set, for six months, at £211 per megawatt-hour (MWh) for electricity and £75 per MWh for gas. Meanwhile, changes announced in the mini-budget on September 23 will also affect the costs of running a business. The recent 1.25% rise in NI which was introduced in April will be reversed from November 6, and previously announced plans to increase Corporation Tax from 19% to 25% from April 2023 have been scrapped. From April 2023, the basic rate of Income Tax will be cut from 20% to 19%. It was initially announced that the 45% additional rate paid by people who earn over £150,000 would be abolished, but this plan was reversed in an update on October 3, following a backlash. Rules around Universal Credit will also be changed, meaning people’s benefits may be reduced if they don’t fulfil job search commitments. Elan Spa at Mallory Court Hotel has partnered with Temple Spa and is now offering the brand’s menu of face and body treatments. Temple Spa has also been named a sponsor of the Elan Spa Academy, the spa’s apprenticeship scheme for talented and aspiring beauty therapists. Labskin and the University of Bradford’s Centre for Skin Sciences have announced that the first commercially available lab-grown “pigmented” skin-equivalent has been developed. These new pigmented models mimic the skin’s microbiome, which allow skincare ingredients and formulations to be tested on a greater diversity of skin types. Sweet Squared was named as Nimue’s International Distributor of the Year at the 2022 Nimue Conference in South Africa. The event also saw Carol Macniver from Cmac Beauty Oban, Scotland, named as Nimue’s International Therapist of the Year 2022, following her win in the UK leg. Salon software business Phorest has launched its Autumn Collection, a mix of product updates and new features including PhorestPay Card Terminal, Online Store with options for in-store pick up, promotions, free shipping, Account Integration, Phorest Reports and new client self-check-in app PhorestGuest. Evolve Organic Beauty has committed to halve carbon emissions by 2030 and achieve net zero by 2050. The brand has already achieved COSMOS Organic and Natural, Certified Vegan, Certified Cruelty Free, Carbon Neural and Plastic Negative status, and is in discussions about creating an industry-wide ingredient sustainability database or standard. News in brief
16 professionalbeauty.co.uk NEWS Cost-of-living crisis driving financially inclusive beauty trend Consumers are demanding fairer pricing, greater product efficacy and more honest business models as the cost-of-living crisis continues, according to a new report from beauty buyers’ club Beauty Pie. The Beauty Futures 2025: Beauty, Beautility and the Rise of the ‘Question Everything’ Economy report, released in partnership with consultancy The Future Laboratory, found that a period of financial uncertainty, increased free time during the pandemic, and greater access to information has created a generation of hyper-knowledgeable consumers. These beauty consumers expect brands to provide more honesty about their products – from efficacy to supply chain. As consumers continue to re-evaluate their spending and become more knowledgeable about mark-ups, the report predics there will be demand for radical fairness across everything from price point to product efficacy. This will change associations of higher price being linked to quality, placing more pressure on brands to prioritise shared values and demonstrate fairness, the report found. Brands are also increasingly seeing consumers turn away from wanting to be “sold” products, instead turning to their peers for product recommendations. More salons and spas launch academies in a bid to tackle the recruitment crisis The Daniel Thwaites Spa Group and salon chain Mooeys have addressed the therapist recruitment crisis head on by launching their own academies. In September, Daniel Thwaites, which runs six hotel spas across the UK, launched The Spa Academy to give people the opportunity to work at a Daniel Thwaites spa while completing a Level 2 or 3 apprenticeship. Roles include wellbeing holistic therapists, leisure team members and personal trainers. Those taking part will be able to do training onsite, with dedicated time to study and assessments taking place either onsite or remotely via a training supplier. Meanwhile, Mooeys has outlined plans to launch a Sponsorship Programme to recruit trainee beauty therapists and train them in house. During the 26-week intensive training programme, students will cover all treatments offered within the salon chain through the brand’s fully accredited Babtac and Beauty Guild training courses, including nails, waxing, brow lamination and lash lifting. CACI treated brides-to-be at the Bridal Beauty Festival, at the Rosewood London hotel, where attendees had access to skincare advice from CACI experts and were gifted Rejuvenating Hand Masks to get hands weddingring-ready. Complimentary Express Synergy facial treatments were available, with one bride-to-be winning a professional treatment at the brand’s Knightsbridge flagship. Everlasting Brows has launched a Pigmentology Master training course for permanent make-up artists. The course will train PMUAs in colour theory, skin tones and undertones , what is necessary for successful colour correction and more, with various assessments throughout. Lumenis has launched Aesthetic Aspire, a bi-annual customer magazine intended to shine a light on company news and educate on industry trends from the aesthetics world. The magazine will also spotlight Lumenis’s brand partners, key opinion leaders and the people behind the brand. Ragdale Hall Spa, Leicester, will now be retailing the full Medik8 product range within its beauty boutique. The spa is also offering professional Medik8 treatments, including the Platinum Face and Body Rejuvenating Ritual Treatment, which is exclusive to Ragdale Hall Spa. Sarah Deacon has been appointed 3D Aesthetics’ national sales manager within its cosmeceutical division for Lesielle UK. In her new role, Deacon will develop and deliver a growth plan for the new cosmeceutical division and build a sales team for the new brand. News in brief
18 professionalbeauty.co.uk NEWS Sephora launching into the UK with store and website Renowned beauty retailer Sephora is set to launch in the UK, taking over Feelunique’s website and opening a store in spring 2023. On October 17, 2022, the Feelunique website, which Sephora acquired a year ago,became sephora.co.uk. It will sell brands exclusive to Sephora UK, including Tarte Cosmetics, ILIA, Skinfix and its own Sephora Collection, alongside premium brands including Pat McGrath Labs and Fenty Beauty. The online launch will be followed by the opening of a store in London in spring 2023. To celebrate its UK launch, Sephora hosted an event in London on October 20 at One Marylebone. Chris de Lapuente, chairman and chief executive of Sephora, said, “We are delighted to bring Sephora to the UK [which] is home to a dynamic beauty and wellbeing market that Sephora will aim to surprise and delight through our trademark knowhow and creativity.” Only 17% of women believe racial beauty is accepted by society Just 17% of women think that racial beauty is truly accepted by society, according to new data. The report, titled Forces of Beauty, from Driving Racial Equality in Aesthetic Medicine (DREAM), surveyed 4,000 women, aged between 21 and 65, about what inclusive and representative beauty looks like today, with a focus on how Eurocentric ideals affect women of colour. The data found that just 17% of women felt that racial beauty is accepted by society, and one in four Black, Hispanic, and multi-racial women believe society’s standards of beauty are racist. Just over half (52%) agreed that “anyone can be beautiful,” despite only 11% saying that society makes them feel beautiful. The report will be brought to life through a video series produced by Shutterstock Studios, featuring four women sharing their stories and experiences. The DREAM Initiative also involves a royalty-free gallery of diverse images on shutterstock.com, which we have featured above and on this month’s cover. Dermalogica announced the launch of a “Sun Ageing Cream”, as part of its “SPF is for life not for Summer” campaign. The spoof product, marketed to help you age 24% faster, was “launched” to raise awareness about SPF damage after it was reported 3.7 million Brits don’t do anything to project their skin in strong sunlight. Finnish payment and booking service provider Book Salon is launching in the UK. The start-up offers payment terminals and a payment processing service, in addition to its website builder, online booking systems, and cash and accounting reports, and specialises in the hair, beauty and wellness sector. Renova, a new medical and aesthetic clinic in Poole, has made a 10-year dream a reality for owner Jim Westwood. The clinic, which Westwood began planning a decade ago, will offer a range of aesthetic services, from injectables to tech-based treatments. Strictly Come Dancing pro Nadiya Bychkova prepared for the opening show with a body-sculpting treatment from Endospheres. The treatment produces a vibration and pressure combination that performs “vascular gymnastics” on the body for muscle recovery and shaping. Suzanna Clayton, brand development manager for Louella Belle, attended Footlogix’s Train the Trainer class in Belgium with educators Metta Francis, Sharon Baker, Claire Harris and Clare Hoosen. The event saw the team joined by 75 others from 19 countries for two days of demonstrations, product training and networking. News in brief
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23 professionalbeauty.co.uk NEWS Cosmeditech has opened its second Experience Centre in Birchwood, Cheshire, with a showroom for its full product range and a training centre for existing and new customers. Following the opening of its first centre in Dublin in July, the company has opened the second to support its customer base in the north of the UK. Peter McGuinness, founder and managing director of Cosmeditech, said, “For most salons and clinics, technology is perhaps the largest investment they will make, so having this facility allows them to visit and try out any of our devices to reassure them that they are investing in the best equipment for their business. He added, “It represents a significant investment in our business and the support we can provide customers before and after their investment in new technology.” Cosmeditech opens second Experience Centre CACI’s new website and refresher training CACI has created a Refresher Training Course, to be held at its head office in Elstree. The course is for therapists previously trained and certified by CACI who need additional support. The half-day course will include hands-on practical and revision of the signature treatment with the support of CACI’s training team. Managing director Dean Nathanson said, “The refresher course is a great way for us to maintain treatment standards.” The brand’s website has also had an update, now incorporating the CACI brand story, award wins, treatments and technology menu, blog, clinic finder and shop. Salons can access the professional portal, including marketing and training materials. The site has been mobile optimised. Louella Belle and Duet Diabetes team up for diabetic awareness Louella Belle and Duet Diabetes have launched the Evergreen Diabetic Foot Awareness workshop, designed to help beauty and wellness therapists to understand the diabetic foot and feel confident about when to carry out treatment. Students will also learn what advice to give as well as when to encourage clients to seek care from a healthcare professional if they spot signs of foot problems. The session is pre-recorded by an experienced podiatrist from Duet Diabetes and available to view virtually on louellabelle.academy. The workshop is certified after completing and passing the course and exam. // November 6-7 Professional Beauty and HJ Ireland CityWest Dublin Discover new trends, pick up skills and network at Ireland’s leading show for beauty, spa and hair professionals. 0844 586 8195 professionalbeauty.ie // January 26–28, 2022 IMACS Annual World Congress Palais des Congres International expo covering aesthetic procedures. +33 (0) 140 738 282 imacs.com/en // February 20–21 Professional Beauty Dubai Festival Arena, Dubai The biggest industry event in Dubai includes live stages, workshops and competitions. +971 (0) 4375 7300 professionalbauty.ae // March 5 Professional Beauty and World Spa & Wellness Awards 2023 The Brewery, London The biggest and most established awards for the industry returns. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/awards // March 5–6 Professional Beauty London 2023 ExCeL London PB London returns with stellar education, competitions networking opportunities and some of the biggest brands. 0344 443 4411 professionalbeauty.co.uk/london // March 5–6 World Spa and Wellness Convention 2023 ExCeL London Global networking event for both independently run and group spas and hotels, taking place at PB London. 0344 443 4411 professionalbeauty.co.uk/wswlondon Diary dates
25 professionalbeauty.co.uk PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY AWARDS t’s your last chance to make your mark on the beauty, spa and nails industry by entering the Professional Beauty Awards 2023. Entries close on Wednesday, November 23, so don’t miss the opportunity to set yourself apart from the competition and be recognised as the best in the UK. Professional Beauty Awards categories • Skin Clinic of the Year – sponsored by Million Dollar Facial • Spa/Salon Team of the Year – sponsored by NHBF • Large Spa of the Year • Boutique Spa of the Year • Employer of the Year • Nail Salon of the Year • Large Salon of the Year • Boutique Salon of the Year • Therapist of the Year • Mobile/Home-based Beauty Business of the Year • Educator of the Year Judging Entries are scored by a panel of independent industry experts to decide on the shortlist. Finalists go through to second-round judging, which varies depending on category, but involves videos, interviews and trade tests. Why should you enter? Winning a Professional Beauty Award puts your business on the map. Here are just four reasons why: 1. Great press coverage: get featured in Professional Beauty magazine and be discovered by other national and local media with support from our team. 2. Stand out from competitors: when a potential client or investor is sizing you up, a business award could give you the edge. 3. Motivate and attract good staff: being an awardwinning business gives your team pride in what they do, it can also attract the high-quality new staff you need to grow. 4. Get valuable feedback: if you reach the finals, we can provide judging feedback to help you identify strengths and weaknesses and plan for success. The big night The winners will be announced during a gala awards dinner on Sunday, March 5, at historic Grade II listed venue The Brewery in London. The night begins with a champagne reception followed by dinner, entertainment, awards ceremony and dancing. Entry is free and quick to do via the Professional Beauty Awards website at: professionalbeautyawardsuk.co.uk Thank you to our sponsors chance Take a Entries for the PB Awards 2023 close on November 23, 2022. Don’t miss your opportunity for recognition and success
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29 professionalbeauty.co.uk DIGITAL professionalbeauty.co.uk We take a look inside PB’s digital world MPs launch investigation into value of complementary therapies This month we asked you… Has the cost-of-living crisis caused you to make changes in your business? Hot Topic Sephora to relaunch into UK with website and London store Sam Blake, founder and owner at The Safer Salon Geek: “Sephora was in Merry Hill Shopping Centre in my teens – one of my first beauty experiences.” Lucy Smith, international sales director, Stylpro: “Great news! The UK market will be good as they’ll get it right this time.” How the September mini-budget will affect beauty businesses Veronica Shepherd, owner, Veronica Beauty and Laser Clinic, Howden: “It is reassuring we are having some support in our industry after having gone through the past few lockdowns. We all need reassurance in these unprecedented times.” Hot Topic A cross-party group of MPs has launched an investigation into the value of complementary therapies in supporting physical and mental health, as well as reducing pressure on the NHS. Here’s what you had to say: Maxine Bridges, sales manager, Affinity Therapy Division: “Complementary therapies can offer relief from so many conditions. Social prescribing is on the rise, and quite rightly so. GP time is hard pushed so anything that helps to relieve the burden has to be a good thing.” Geraldine Spensley, owner, Escape Cosmetic Therapy, Bridgend: “We are an integral part of the community, helping people with their everyday struggles. Whether it be looking after a diabetic’s feet because they can no longer reach them or reducing a person’s stress levels through massage and reducing anxiety and overall tension levels as a result. Before the pandemic we did a reasonable amount of massage. After the pandemic our massage is second most popular treatment with a huge shift towards people’s mental wellbeing as the reason they have sought it.” Kathleen Birch, owner, Kathleen Birch, Chiswick: “I agree completely with other comments about complementary therapies helping achieve good health. But pay, training and qualifications are not a high enough standard. This needs to be addressed.” Join the conversation… @pro_beauty01 The team @eveoxberry @nailoccultist @ellen_cummings @lollie.hancock /ProfessionalBeautyUK professionalbeauty @pro_beauty 1ProBeauty @professionalbeauty01 Yes No Not yet, but considering it 58% 15% 27%
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33 professionalbeauty.co.uk BUSINESS TRENDS Our exclusive monthly benchmarking stats for each sector of the market JOE BROWNS Both treatment and retail business was worse than this time last year for the majority of beauty salons and average treatment room occupancy was a little lower than we’ve seen in recent months too. With energy bills and other supplier costs on the increase, it’s not surprising that 100% of respondents to this month’s Insider beauy survey believe that the Government needs to do more to financially support the industry. Some salons will be making changes to cope with the current cost-ofliving crisis – don’t miss our experts’ top money saving tips on page 70. In some good news from the Government, MPs have launched an investigation into the value of complementary therapies in supporting physical health, mental health and wellbeing and taking pressure off the NHS – read more about this on page 11. Want to have your say on the beauty industry? Take part in our Insider feature. Sign up at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/insider Take part in our Insider feature 63% average treatment room occupancy in September How did treatment business in September 2022 compare with September 2021? How did retail business in September 2022 compare with September 2021? worse 51% worse 66% same 22% same 19% better 27% better 15% 100% think the Government needs to do more to financially support the beauty industry What do you think is the most important aspect of a client’s treatment experience? 1. The therapist (92%) 2. Product brand used (4%) 3. Technologies or ingredients used (4%)
34 professionalbeauty.co.uk BUSINESS TRENDS 96% think the Government needs to do more to financially support the spa industry With the continuing cost-of-living crisis, spas are having to do more to attract and keep clients. An important part of being found by new clients is your spa’s online presence and marketing. When we asked which search terms you use to market your spa online, “rejuvenate” was the most popular, with 54% of respondents using it in their marketing. This was closely followed by “refresh” (46%) and “mindful” (33%). Of course, once clients have chosen to visit your spa it’s key to give them the best possible experience in order to keep them coming back. There are many factors that contribute to a client’s treatment experience, but a huge 73% of you believe that the therapist coonnection and skill is the most important aspect – showing that human touch is still very much integral to the spa industry. 56% average treatment room occupancy in September What do you think is the most important aspect of a client’s treatment experience? 1. The therapist (73%) 2. Spa location (14%) 3. Value for money (9%) 4. Treatment room interior (5%) How did treatment business in September 2022 compare with September 2021? How did retail business in September 2022 compare with September 2021? worse 37% same 17% better 46% worse 49% same 17% better 34% Which key words do you use to market your spa offerings online? 1. Rejuvenate (54%) 2. Refresh (46%) 3. Mindful (35%) 4. Spa deals (33%) 5. Afternoon tea (28%) 6. Serenity (24%) 7. Relaxation (7%) 8. Thermal (5%) 9. Wellbeing (4%) ASPIGA
36 professionalbeauty.co.uk BUSINESS TRENDS LITTLE MISTRESS The change in season from autumn to winter often sees clients move to more festive nail shades as we approach Christmas – and that’s no different this year. Red and glitter are expected to be the most popular winter nail shades by 57% and 50% of you respectively, although the French tip – one of summer 2022’s most popular revival trends – still makes an appearance at 14%. One of the great things about being a nail tech is the huge variety of work you can do, and training in new skills is a great way to stay interested in the profession. When we asked which area you were most interested in training in next, 35% of you said gel nails, with the next most popular answer nail art (32%), then e-filing (19%). Only 38% currently offer nail art, suggesting that there could be a niche in the market for nail techs looking to expand into this area. To get your work noticed, read how to take the best nail pictures on page 44. METHODOLOGY Insider is compiled from a monthly survey of spas and beauty salons. The people who participated represent a cross-section of the industry and were polled by email from October 3 to October 10, regarding business for the month to September 30. Nail business for the Insider Nails page was calculated from data provided by salons that offer nail services among other treatments. The figures given represent the average score for each answer. Brands are ranked when mentioned by several respondents. 75 nail treatments performed on average per week in September How did nail retail business in September 2022 compare with September 2021? How did nail treatment business in September 2022 compare with September 2021? 45% worse 8% better 47% same 28% 1% better same 71% worse 38% offer nail art Which nail shades do you think will be most popular with clients this winter? 1. Reds (57%) 2. Glitter (50%) 3. Black (32%) 4. Purples (29%) 5. Metallic (21%) Which area of nail skills are you most interested in training in next? 1. Gel nails (35%) 2. Nail art (32%) 3. E-file (19%) 4. Builder gel (9%) 5. Full cover tips (3%) 6. Sculpting with acrylic (2%) 6. Browns (21%) 7. French (14%) 8. Greens (12%) 9. Blues (7%)
37 professionalbeauty.co.uk PROMOTIONAL FEATURE ark Alexander, founder and owner of Natural Balance Therapies, set up his spa with the goal of becoming a centre of excellence for massage and osteopathy. 15 years on and the business has expanded to acupuncture, beauty treatments and more. Alexander is something of a veteran when it comes to wellness and beauty. With over a decade and a half of experience as owner of Natural Balance Therapies, he is also a member of the Institute for Soft Tissue Therapists and has lectured on the University of Brighton’s Complementary Healthcare course. Pioneering even in its early days, Natural Balance Therapies was one of the first massage businesses to have a bespoke booking software – but as business grew, so did its requirements. “During the lockdown I wanted to change the system, and Fresha really stood out because it was mobile-friendly. The functionality is fantastic across all devices, which was a really big consideration for us.” Managing a growing business Natural Balance Therapies has come a long way since opening; having changed locations, built a team of 14 therapists and grown its client base to over 1,000 people. Having an easy-to-use booking software has been a major factor in its recent growth. “All of my therapists have the Fresha partner app, so they can manage their diaries and reschedule clients. I wouldn’t be able to manage a team of 14 without Fresha helping me,” says Alexander. Fresha’s fully integrated payment system means business owners like Alexander can keep everything easily organised. They were able to take card payments on a previous system, but without the integration provided by Fresha, things weren’t always straightforward. “There would often be discrepancies as the card machines we used didn’t keep a record of payments, so it created a lot of administration. Fresha’s integrated payment system is fantastic, you can’t get it wrong.” With Fresha’s reporting feature, Alexander is able to check on his business when and where he wants. “Reports have made everything much more streamlined, I use it to do all my accounts and finance, and I can look at them from anywhere, even 5000 miles away on holiday. I love the reporting on Fresha,” he says. Promoting business While Natural Balance Therapies has been around for a while, it isn’t a high-street business and its location is rather hidden away. This means Alexander depends on a web presence to bring in business – and Fresha’s marketing tools help him stay connected to his clients. With Fresha’s blast campaign feature, he is able to reach out with targeted messages via email, text message and in-app notifications – a great way to promote products and services, helping you stay in your clients’ thoughts. “We use Fresha blast campaigns for our monthly newsletter, but we also sent out a blast message by text with a 10% offer when bookings were a little slow. We targeted 1,400 of our clients, and when you send them out they work extremely well,” he says. Simple solution While Fresha comes with a range of great features, for Alexander the main benefit is that it’s simple for everyone who needs to use it, giving all his staff the ability to manage their bookings, calendars, and payments. “It allows our clients to make or amend bookings without having to phone us. I’d definitely recommend Fresha to other businesses, it’s given me freedom,” says Alexander. Manage your business to success like Natural Balance Therapies by joining Fresha free at fresha.com/for-business During the pandemic, Mark Alexander chose to change the software used at his business, Natural Balance Therapies. Since, the business has grown to a “centre of excellence” with the help of Fresha grow your beauty business
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39 professionalbeauty.co.uk WARD’S WORLD How often should you increase your treatment and retail prices, and with the cost of living escalating, how will clients react to rises now? Hellen Ward shares her tried-and-tested advice henever I am out and about at industry events, the topic I get quizzed about the most is the issue of price increases, especially since the pandemic. It’s a problem we all face in the sector and opinions on how to handle it vary. How often they should happen (if at all?) and by how much? More importantly – just how should you go about it? I wrote about this issue in my column some years ago, but thought it would be a good time to revisit it now the cost-of-living crisis is biting. I’m sure many salons will be thinking about instigating a price rise in the new year, if they haven’t done so already, so it’s timely to share what I think is best practice on such a thorny issue. So, here are my thoughts and advice, for what it’s worth: 1. Little and often or go big? I find it works much better to be able to explain a price rise if a decent amount of time has elapsed since the last one. Having carried out research on our client base, we were told in no uncertain terms that they preferred a bigger increase less often than constant little regular price hikes that they would notice each visit (it’s futile to think they won’t – they do). So, we adopted a policy of doing a more substantial rise every 18 months. In general terms it’s around 5-10% on our services (but see point 4!). Being able to say that your business has swallowed rising costs but you haven’t put your prices up for a year and a half certainly makes customers more sympathetic. 2. Should you treat retail and services differently? Retail tends to be a bit different, as supplier costs are rising constantly – our main supplier used to do one annual price rise, but in 2022 did a mid-year hike, too. Customer psychology-wise, adapting and amending the price of retail products is more accepted because we are all buying goods all the time and seeing the prices rise constantly, so there is a greater consensus of understanding that product prices will change. If a product is costing you more to buy in, it’s unlikely you’ll make enough margin if you don’t adapt your retail price, whereas even product-heavy services are more personal and involve the operator’s time, so are viewed by clients as more flexible. 3. Shout it out or hide it? We place a discreet sign at reception informing clients just before we instigate a rise – the date of the rise clearly displayed – and leave it in place for a good three months so people who don’t come as regularly can see that we did notify people beforehand. We also post on social media explaining why we are raising some prices, and letting people know how long it’s been since the last rise. It’s worth mentioning it at the point of booking – but only if handled correctly – a The price is right
40 professionalbeauty.co.uk WARD’S WORLD subtle, “Just so you’re aware, and you might have seen from our social media and on our website, please note that we’ve had a slight price increase on some of our services.” Finish by reminding the client how long it was since the last one, too. 4. Be prepared to go down as well as up Okay, it may not happen often, but sometimes we adjust prices and decrease them because the general market value of the service has declined not risen (think microwaves or digital fitness trackers). For us, manicures have become normalised and more widely available so the price point of nail services is a real case in point; we charge less now than we did 10 years ago. It’s always worth pointing out when this happens as it makes clients understand you are being fair and bothering to research the market and your competition – and that can mean price adjustments either way. 5. Be flexible and adaptable Tell your staff that they can negotiate. Empower them to understand that retaining the client has to be the priority, so if they feel they might lose someone, keep them at the old rate for an agreed period of time. To do this, however, make sure you make full use of your computer software and write detailed notes so nobody is shouting out “But I don’t pay that” in front of people who do! Also, this should be treated as an exception, not a rule, so encourage your team to treat it as such. What you don’t want is everybody paying different prices – just a headache. 6. Protect your “rack rate” at all costs Perhaps the most important tip is to remember that your online price point should be your highest. Think hotels that have deals with corporate companies – they might discount their room rate for valued customers privately by separate arrangement but the price as advertised digitally is the acknowledged rate. The price you market publicly can just be used as the price point for new clients, and you can deal with existing clients specifically by offering them time-limited price fixes if you feel the need. Remember, you can always go down, but it’s far harder to go up, so make sure your digital presence gives you the leeway to do just that. Your website price is also a good indicator for those clients who are paying old prices – they can see just how much discount they are getting. 7. Try adding value Try a different approach and make the service more valuable. For instance, for your senior team members (who should be charging more for their expertise) add in a freebie. We use conditioning treatments, goody bags, and other tools to do this. In the Metrospa, we’ve just started burning a branded candle during face or body treatments then giving it to the client at the end as a gift. Adding value is always better than damaging the price point. It’s never going to be easy to judge client behaviour and how they might react to an increase, especially if they are loyal and regular spenders, so being flexible is key. We are all facing inflation at a rate we haven’t seen for decades, and the resulting cost-of-living crisis means we are all feeling the pinch. For those reluctant to risk losing business by increasing their prices, it’s a call you have to make, having studied the numbers and your history of price rises. You may have no option, but using my guide and being flexible should help retain business. One thing is certain – failing to do your market analysis and study the competition’s pricing is a mistake we cannot afford to make, especially in the current climate. Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London and a beauty ambassador for the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF).
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42 professionalbeauty.co.uk PROMOTIONAL FEATURE Find out more at app.beuapp.com/get-software. Use code PB20 to save 20%, and upgrade your business today. t probably comes as no surprise that beauty salons are one of the biggest energy users out of any small business. Due to this, they are also particularly susceptible to the rising costs of energy prices, and may rightfully be nervous with the forecasted cost-of-energy increase this coming winter. However, there are a few steps that can be taken to reduce your monthly overheads and possibly even improve the experience for your staff and customers in the process. Upfront costs If you have been following the news recently, we are sure you have heard advice from Government ministers to drop the subscriptions to your favourite TV and music streaming services to save money that can be put towards your heating bill. Now, we’re not telling you to sacrifice your enjoyment, but we think a similar approach can be taken with saving on your beauty salon overheads by looking at the price you are paying for your software. Often, software is designed to attract you with a free trial or a freemium version, which, once you are stuck in the system, seems to sting you with a plethora of different commissions for online bookings, offline booking payments and necessary features. At Beu, we like to do things a little differently. Our software was built with direct feedback from salons and beauty therapists, for salons and beauty therapists. Consequently, our business model is not designed to move clients between different premises and collect commissions. We have a straightforward pricing structure, starting from just £25 a month, with all the features you need to run a successful business. Salon software with a difference Beu is designed for salons with both employed and self-employed teams, and allows those with a mix of staff types to work seamlessly together. Available on both web and mobile devices, Beu allows your staff to manage appointments with complete point-of-sale functionality, available from any device. Not only does this save time for any front-of-house staff, it makes the entire salon more efficient. Creating the best possible experience for your clients starts with creating the perfect working environment where the salon staff are happy and motivated. Beu software is designed to do just that. As well as facilitating online bookings and providing your clients with an app to manage their appointments, Beu also provides great features to the business to make it as successful and happy as possible. Beu works with self-employed and employed staff, allowing commissions to be set independently and automatically calculated. The diary features allow you to maximise the number of bookings you can take in a day, and are flexible enough to work for all salons. Set deposits, take payment in advance, manage all your staff, process payments and much more from just £25 a month. Cut your With winter approaching and energy bills on the rise, could you cut costs elsewhere in your business? The team at Beu explains how overheads
43 professionalbeauty.co.uk BUSINESS TIPS Is it possible to use sheet masks in a sustainable way? The simple answer is yes. Do not be fooled into thinking all sheet masks are the same, or that just because they are a single-use product, they’re all a bad environmental choice – that is not necessarily true. There are brands out there which have put a huge amount of research and resources into ensuring their sheet masks and packaging are both ethically sourced and sustainable. For example, suppliers could be asked if they have organic certification or if they use ecological farming methods. Salon owners need to do their own research into whether a sheet mask brand can actually provide proof of its sustainability programme. A good way to gauge what is available in the industry is to stay in the loop with professional news. Use the resources available to you, such as trade press, professional trade shows and professional sites on the internet. There is nothing wrong with also contacting the brand directly and asking them for their sustainability credentials if they are not readily available. Trade shows and trade press are also great ways to keep up to date with trends, new formulas and what brands are doing to protect the environment. Things to look for include valid certifications and logos, so check your supplier’s sustainability credentials. Examples would be The Vegan Society’s logo, being certified cruelty-free by PETA, or the Forest Stewardship Council logo which confirms that the paper, wood and card packaging being used come from a forest source that is being managed in a way that preserves biological diversity and benefits the lives of local people and workers, while ensuring it sustains economic viability. To add these official logos or certification credentials to their product packaging, a brand must apply and register with the association to authenticate the product or packaging. At +maskology, our sustainability initiatives are really important to us. For example, our sheet masks are constructed from a sustainable source of bamboo fibres, meaning they are 100% natural and biodegradable so, after use, rather than placing them in the waste bin, they can be added to a garden compost bin to biodegrade within a matter of weeks. Our sheet mask sachets can be returned to us where we recycle them into plastic pellets, which are then used to manufacture playground equipment and park benches. In terms of formulas to look out for, ask your sheet mask supplier if theirs are plant-based, whether the ingredients are ethically sourced, and whether the formulas are also water free – which is another huge factor when looking at sustainable options. Deborah Carrington is a national trainer for +maskology with over 30 years’ experience in the industry as a salon owner and beauty educator. Our beauty experts answer your questions about every aspect of running a salon or spa business
44 professionalbeauty.co.uk BUSINESS TIPS Suzanne Clayton is a nail tech and beauty therapist with over 20 years’ experience. Clayton is the founder of support group Nail Tech Awareness and the brand development manager at Louella Belle. How can I take the best nail photographs to showcase my skills? 4. Hand pose: one of the most controversial topics of discussion around great nail shots is the hand pose. There are lots of hand poses on social media, but my advice is to choose a few that are easy for your clients to pose for, and ones that show as many of the nails as possible. Clients want to see what colours or nail art looks like on a whole hand, and both hands if possible, rather than just one or two fingers. They want to be able to imagine it on their own hands to judge if the colour is too bright or the design is too much. Your social media will look far neater if you have consistency in your images, and this means using the same poses for a few posts at a time or every other post, for example. 5. Props: last but not least, try to take photos with at least some of the products used in the hand as a prop or in the background because it will often catch people’s attention and generate interest in what you’ve used. Product bottles are also the perfect size to fit in clients’ hands so they work well for hand poses. Getting the right nail photo for social media is never easy and you’ll always take far more pictures than you use, but there are some things you can focus on to help you get the money shot. 1. Camera settings: first, you need to look at your phone’s camera and understand the different settings. Depending on the phone, there may be different settings for “vivid warm” and “vivid cool”, for example, which could help you take more realisticlooking photos of colours. Warm or cool colours, as well as glitters, foils or other nail art, will photograph differently and need adjusted settings. 2. Lighting: using a daylight bulb will give a more natural glow and take away the yellowness that can appear, and it will also help with shadows in the background. 3. Background: this is crucial because a messy background can take away from the nails, while a patterned one can look too busy. I use sample wallpapers so that I can change the background according to the colour I’m trying to capture, or just use them as different backgrounds to change up my Instagram grid, or when creating product shots or flat lays. I love a brick wall wallpaper because it gives texture without detracting, but I also love taking pictures outside with natural lighting and plants as a background.
45 professionalbeauty.co.uk BUSINESS TIPS Laura Morgans heads up the UK training team at Noon Aesthetics and is the commercial manager at distributor Advanced Esthetics Solutions. Azelaic acid is also useful for neutralising and preventing oxidative damage due to active oxygen species such as superoxide anion radical (-2) and hydroxyl radical (-OH). There are also reports of antiviral and antifungal actions. It can be used in the treatment of ingrowing hairs, folliculitis and keratosis pilaris. It works well alongside vitamin C to treat pigmentation and in its antioxidant approach. Niacinamide is a calming ingredient which also works well with azelaic acid to alleviate inflammation. Since azelaic acid works so well with other ingredients, at Noon Aesthetics we have created multitasking products. For postinflammatory hyperpigmentation and dark spots there is Double White, which combines 20% azelaic acid with 5% alpha arbutin – an ingredient that helps to lighten pigmentation, as well as 11% stabilised vitamin C. The Azelaic Forte 25 product is the highest concentration that doesn’t require a prescription, and it also contains 5% alpha arbutin. It is safe to use on all skin types due to our DermShield technology. You would not use azelaic acid in combination with device-led treatments. However, as a supporting ingredient alongside courses such as laser, IPL, peels, needling and waxing, it helps prevent posttreatment pigmentation, boost healing and restore skin function to reduce downtime. Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid that can be derived from grains like barley, wheat and rye. However, the lab-engineered form is typically used in skincare formulas because of its greater stability and effectiveness. The ingredient is typically well tolerated by all skin types, even by those with sensitive skin. Azelaic acid is a great treatment for an array of skin problems, including: • Acne: concentrations of azelaic acid above 10% are useful for the treatment of the acne-causing bacteria propionibacterium acnes and staphylococcus. A study showed that the use of azelaic acid for three months led to remission in 64% of acne patients. If the treatment continues for six months, the acidic efficacy becomes similar to the effect of an antibiotic, benzoyl peroxide and tretinoin, as well as to the influence of tetracycline in daily doses of 0.5-1g/g. • Rosacea: in one study, the relative efficacy of a 15-week treatment with azelaic acid was compared with the usual treatment regimen used against rosacea. The results indicated that azelaic acid was much more efficient in treating inflammatory response, but less effective in treating erythema. However, participants in this study reported greater satisfaction with the results of treatment with azelaic acid. • Pigmentation: azelaic acid selectively works on hyperactive melanocytes and does not affect normal pigment, making it a great choice for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma. It is clinically proven that azelaic acid in concentrations over 20% inhibits tyrosinase. What is azelaic acid and how can I use it in my treatments?
46 professionalbeauty.co.uk BUSINESS TIPS with soil health in mind, it could trap all the annual CO2 emissions produced by humans and then some. The situation becomes more dire when you consider the research on the opposite end of the spectrum; previous studies have found that if we don’t make this transition, most of the world’s topsoil will be depleted within the next 60 years. Although current organic certification doesn’t cover every aspect of regenerative farming, it is still a real improvement on commercial farming, which is why at Evolve Organic Beauty we choose to purchase organic ingredients wherever possible, and we have certified our products to the COSMOS organic standard. Research shows that greenhouse gases could be reduced by 40-50% by 2050 by following organic principles, and organic soil is 25% more effective at storing carbon long term than non-organic. Although it is currently hard to track and measure the true extent of how regenerative ingredients are, at Evolve we are committed to purchasing as many regenerative and organic ingredients as we can find, and also to tracking and measuring how regenerative our current ingredients portfolio is and improving it year on year. Regenerative is a concept that goes beyond sustainability. Rather than “less bad”, regenerative is actually positive: restorative for the planet and restorative for the body and mind. To be positive for both the planet and for humankind, regenerative means we need to put back more than we take out. This could be measured in several ways, such as improving the health of life on the land and in the sea by focusing on biodiversity and soil health. One of the main ways a beauty brand can be regenerative is to use organic and regeneratively grown ingredients. Regenerative organic agriculture is a holistic, sustainable approach to farming that aims to restore the nutrient content of the soil during the farming process – as well as sustaining the world around it with conservation and rehabilitation measures. One very important part of that ecosystem is the microorganisms in the soil. There are more organisms in a handful of soil than humans who have ever lived, and they all help to sequester carbon from the atmosphere and trap it in the ground. By reducing their diversity, we risk losing this benefit. Large-scale commercial farming is characterised by large monocrop fields, over-tilling, and the use of pesticides, herbicides, and synthetic fertilisers. These efforts deplete the soil, resulting in eroded land, a significantly depleted planet biome, and reduced quality of output. This has a severe environmental impact on a broad scale. In fact, a report by the Rodale Institute, an organic agriculture research non-profit, suggests that if all our land capable of being farmed or ranched was managed Laura Rudoe is the founder and chief executive of ethical skincare brand Evolve Organic Beauty. What is regenerative beauty and how can you tell if a brand is really trying to make a difference? DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to [email protected]
47 professionalbeauty.co.uk PROMOTIONAL FEATURE Join the NHBF before the end of December and quote PBN25 to get £25 off your membership fee. Visit nhbf.co.uk/join he festive season means more than dragging out last year’s Christmas tree and hanging some tinsel over your mirrors. Christmas is a gift for beauty salons, so don’t waste this once-a-year opportunity to give your business a serious boost. Salon window displays One of the biggest things to focus on is making your salon window as eye-catching as possible. Be really focused on catching footfall and bringing new passing trade into the salon. You will be surprised how many salons don’t make an effort with their window at Christmas. You can try a theme such as “winter wonderland” or “party time” and include some of your Christmas merchandise. Make a special effort inside your salon too. Everyone loves the colour and sparkle of festive decorations – give your clients that special “Christmassy” glow as they walk through your door. Festive events Always plan a Christmas client event for the end of November or beginning of December, where the local community are invited to browse and purchase products while sipping on bubbly. The event could include makeover consultations, nails, hair-up, and everything to prepare for that Christmas night out or party. It gives you an opportunity to highlight the services you have on offer over Christmas so that clients will know well in advance. Gift vouchers Your business probably retails gift cards all year round, but Christmas sees a massive spike in gift card sales so, this year, have a Christmas-designed gift card package to help boost sales further. Also, don’t forget to encourage your staff to mention gift cards while clients are in the chair, promote them in salon with an eye-catching display, and spread the word via your website, social media and email marketing. Social media Don’t forget to work on your social media channels and website. Share pictures of your window display and festive decorations, as well as Christmas pressie suggestions, style ideas, and any last-minute appointments you might be able to squeeze in. Encourage your clients to take selfies of their special Christmas makeovers and share them on your social media channels. Don’t forget your staff Make things fun for your staff too. Make sure you schedule at least one Christmas party for everyone to attend and involve everyone in your Christmas plans. Have a Christmas brainstorm and ask everyone for their ideas on making the most of the festive season. A gift from the NHBF Not a member yet? The National Hair and Beauty Federation (NHBF) is the UK’s largest trade body for businesses in the hair, beauty and barbering industries. Members’ benefits include: • Members’ helpline for everyday business support • Award-winning membership magazine • Ready-made employment contracts • Exclusive members podcast • And much more Are you making the most of Christmas? Check out the NHBF’s tips for a fantastic festive season in your salon PLAN A Christmas cracker
For more than 150 years, the Hair and Beauty Charity has helped those in our industry who have fallen on hard times. We provide practical and financial support to those who need us and their families, to make their lives a little easier. Many of our beneficiaries have given a lifetime of service to the hair and beauty industry, changing the lives of millions of people. It is our duty to see them through in their time of need. @HBCHARITYUK HELPING HAIR AND BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS THROUGH TIMES OF HARDSHIP SUPPORT, FUNDRAISE, SPONSOR or DONATE HAIRANDBEAUTYCHARITY.ORG