Fine Gardening: ADAPTABLE PLANTS for spots with mixed conditions

REGIONAL REPORTS: Options That Take Sun and Shade Options That Take Sun and Shade Create a shady, eco-friendly backyard Tips for designing a garden in a tough location Add some summer sizzle with red-hot pokers ADAPTABLE PLANTS for spots with mixed conditions PLUS

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features On the cover See the story on p. 64. Photo: Jack Coyier 36 CONTENTS | July • August 2024 | 28 Perfect plants for slopes Use low-maintenance perennials, shrubs, and trees to add color and interest to your garden’s steepest spots by Catharine Cooke and Ian Gribble 36 Design an engaging, naturalistic garden in the shade This well-structured, ecologically friendly backyard is a wonderful place for creatures of all kinds to hang out by Jeff Epping 44 Make a statement with red-hot pokers Incandescent flowers, fine grasslike foliage, and surprising hardiness can give your beds and borders sizzle over a long season by Richard Hawke 52 Tougher than it looks Punishing winds, persistent pests, and lean soil don’t have to limit a landscape’s potential by Diana Koehm COVER STORY 64 Adaptable plants These versatile selections can take a range of different light or soil conditions, making them a perfect fit for a growing or changing garden by Ed Lyon

28 44 52 20 departments 6 Editor’s letter 8 FineGardening.com 10 Over the fence 12 Contributors 14 Readers’ tips 16 Garden shed 20 Super cool plants • ‘Ambassador’ allium • Mohr’s rosinweed • ‘Purring Tiger’ Siberian iris 24 Healthy garden 72 Plants that take sun and shade for your region • PACIFIC NORTHWEST • SOUTHWEST • MOUNTAIN WEST • MIDWEST • SOUTHEAST • MID-ATLANTIC • NORTHEAST 80 Show notes 82 Zone map 83 Captivating combination CONTENTS | July • August 2024 |

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Gardening against all odds DO ALL GARDENERS secretly think they’ve got it the worst? For instance, because I garden in New England, I feel like the glacial till (aka unbelievably rocky soil) and massively unpredictable spring weather make my gardening more of a challenge than, say, that of gardeners living in Seattle. But is that true? Probably not. Over the years I’ve heard lots of folks in horticulture refer to gardening as an act of resistance. To me, that has always seemed to have a negative connotation; I like to think about my hobby as an act of working within the bounds of nature to create something beautiful and beneficial. But after a recent stint of nine weeks without rain and the arrival of a vole army on my garden’s doorstep, I’m coming around to the whole idea of resistance—or more accurately, defiance. Perhaps that’s why I loved reading the interview on pages 52–63 with Susan Burke and Julie Jordin, who garden on the island of Nantucket off the coast of Massachusetts. What could be more idyllic than creating luscious beds and borders in that location? Turns out that it’s not so idyllic after all. Harsh winds, salt spray, storm erosion, herds of deer, and a rabbit population torn from the pages of Watership Down? No thanks. I’ll take my late frosts and voles any day over that scenario. Yet the landscape that Susan and Julie have crafted is a seaside masterpiece, filled with frothy cottagegarden vibes. It would be beautiful no matter where it was located, but the fact that it was created in a place so punishing to plants is remarkable. This, my friends, is gardening as an act of resistance. And I’m here for it. We’ll be marking the summer solstice soon, and I’m looking forward to moving away from my “working in the garden” phase and into my “enjoying the garden” phase. Ninety-degree weather makes mulching a dreadful task, and I’d much rather be sitting on the patio and enjoying the view of my act of resistance instead of actively resisting. But just as I went to flip the switch into summer mode, I noticed some daylilies with suspicious damage. The deer have moved off into deeper wooded areas by now, and these nibbles were aboveground, so I couldn’t blame Vinny the vole or his cohorts. A day or two later I spied the perpetrator from my kitchen window—a rabbit. And where there’s one, there are bound to be more. We haven’t hit Watership Down levels yet, but I’m already crafting an email to Susan and Julie to get some mitigation advice—or at least a pep talk about the value of continuing to resist. Photos: FG staff (left); Danielle Sherry (right) 6 FINE GARDENING | AUGUST 2024 EDITOR’S LETTER Danielle Sherry Executive Editor [email protected] Oh so cute, but oh so destructive. Here’s the latest challenge to my garden, as seen from the kitchen window.

8 FINE GARDENING | AUGUST 2024 Photos: Danielle Sherry FineGardening.com | CHECK OUT WHAT’S NEW ONLINE | LISTEN TO NEW INTERVIEWS ON THE Fine Gardening podcast Associate editor Carol Collins interviews Jay Sifford in this special episode of Let’s Argue About Plants. Jay is an award-winning landscape designer from North Carolina who specializes in immersive, naturalistic landscape designs that are based around four cornerstones: art, magic, story, and horticulture. Jay offers insights into the ways that these elements can be incorporated into a truly personal garden space. Find some inspiration by going to FineGardening.com/podcast. See some eco-friendly planting plans for shade Jeff Epping’s garden (pp. 36–43) is a master class in how to work with the landscape to create a naturalistic, attractive, and welcoming garden. See what plants Jeff used in his design, and learn how to create the same gorgeous combinations of color, texture, and form in your own backyard. Get the plant IDs now by going to FineGardening.com/web-extras. Visit the Gardening Answers forum Gain exclusive access to some of the most brilliant minds in horticulture and garden design! Our online forum is moderated by professionals who can answer your gardening questions with personalized and region-specifi c advice. Join the conversation at FineGardening.com/forum.

10 FINE GARDENING | AUGUST 2024 Photos: courtesy Proven Winners Color Choice (top); courtesy of Plants Nouveau (bottom) Clarifying a viburnum’s native range On page 54 of Karen Chapman’s article “Deer-Food Alternatives” (May/June 2024), the range of Viburnum dentatum is listed as “midwestern United States.” This plant is also native to the eastern part of the country, both north and south. My arrowwood viburnums here in New Jersey are magnets to pollinators when in bloom. Many birds also eat the fruit. —Marybeth Heffernan, Readington, New Jersey FG responds: Variations within the eastern North American species V. dentatum do occur. And localized geographic variants are often found (such as in the case of All That Glitters®, the V. dentatum var. deamii cultivar profiled in the article) over the range of the species, with leaf shape and size frequently more consistent on a local or regional level. We asked Paul Cappiello, executive director of Yew Dell Botanical Gardens in Crestwood, Kentucky, for more information, and here is what he shared: “What is considered mainline V. dentatum var. deamii (now more properly V. deamii) more or less falls into a stretch best described as the Ohio River Valley. Straight V. dentatum, depending on how you parse it all out, goes from Atlantic Canada to northern Florida and west to the Great Plains.” In the case of this plant, we chose to only highlight the localized native range of V. dentatum var. deamii. Not in my backyard—or my front yard While reading “Choice Plants for Challenging Conditions” in the September/October 2023 issue of your magazine, I was quite OVER THE FENCE | READER COMMENTS AND OPINIONS | Want your opinion heard? Email your comments to [email protected]. surprised to find gray dogwood listed as a good native shrub to plant. In my experience here in northwestern Ohio, gray dogwood is one of the most aggressive plants I have ever encountered. My son and I have been battling gray dogwood ever since he bought his property in 2004. It comes up everywhere, and it makes it very difficult to maintain the native prairies we have planted. I am not exaggerating when I say if he stopped mowing his yard, within two years it would be totally covered in gray dogwood. There are other native dogwoods that are much better behaved, including silky dogwood, which has the added benefit of pretty blue berries in the fall instead of white berries like other dogwoods. —Rebecca Cullen, Bowling Green, Ohio FG responds: Gray dogwood is a treasured native plant for many, but a thug for others. It can become aggressive in some habitats, especially in settings where consistently moist soil is present. Thanks for the inspiration I just loved Curtis Steiner’s article “Step Inside a Living Art Installation” about his “foliage first” garden in the March/April 2024 issue. His lessons about the use of contrasting shapes, colors, and textures in the creation of his enchanting garden are so inspiring. Thank you! —Deborah Bowen, West Stockbridge, Massachusetts This botanical name needs some sprucing up I am a long-time subscriber to Fine Gardening, and I always find something interesting in each issue. In “The Best New Plants for 2024” article in your May/June 2024 issue, however, a photo on page 26 shows a 7-foot-tall and 3-foot-wide conifer. The description says it’s a dwarf white spruce, yet the botanical name given is Pinus glauca ‘Kolmschagi’. (Pinus is the genus of pine.) The tree in the photo looks like a spruce, so I assume the botanical name is wrong. —Terry Sullivan, Seattle FG responds: Although some say “to-MAY-to” and others say “to-MAH-to,” this is not a case of that. You are indeed correct, and this dwarf white spruce should have been designated to the genus Picea, not Pinus. Thank you for the keen eye! So where are you from? The specific variety of All That Glitters® arrowwood viburnum has a more limited range than the straight species.

FINEGARDENING.COM 11 EXECUTIVE EDITOR Danielle Sherry ASSOCIATE Jody Tramontina ART DIRECTOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR Carol Collins DIGITAL CONTENT Christine Alexander EDITOR ASSISTANT EDITOR Diana Koehm COPY/PRODUCTION Don Burgard EDITOR ADMINISTRATIVE Betsy Engel ASSISTANT EMERITUS EDITOR Stephanie Cohen CONTRIBUTING Stacie Crooks EDITORS William Cullina Kelly Dodson Jeff Gillman Richard Hawke Sue Milliken Andrew Pulte Jason Reeves Richie Steffen PUBLISHER, BOOKS Jennifer Dorsey GARDEN PUBLISHING GROUP EXECUTIVE EDITOR Kristin Beane Sullivan EXECUTIVE Eric Flynn ART DIRECTOR Fine Gardening (ISSN: 0896-6281) is published bimonthly by the Home Group of Active Interest Media HoldCo, Inc. The known office of publication is located at 2143 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, IA 50312. Periodicals postage paid at Des Moines, IA, and additional mailing offices. GST paid registration #123210981. SUBSCRIPTION RATES: U.S., $29.95 for one year, $49.95 for two years, $69.95 for three years. Canada, $31.95 for one year, $53.95 for two years, $75.95 for three years (GST included, payable in U.S. funds). Outside the U.S./Canada, $42.00 for one year, $72.00 for two years, $102.00 for three years (payable in U.S. funds). POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS (see DMM 707.4.12.5). Nonpostal and military facilities: Send address corrections to Fine Gardening, PO Box 198, Lincolnshire, IL 60069-9830. CANADA POST: Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to Fine Gardening, c/o Worldwide Mailers, Inc., 2835 Kew Drive, Windsor, ON N8T 3B7. PRIVACY STATEMENT: Active Interest Media HoldCo, Inc. is committed to protecting your privacy. For a full copy of your privacy statement, go to aimmedia.com/privacy-policy. Printed in the USA Fritillaria Sunset Hyacinth Aiolos Peony Sorbet Muscari Helena Blue Blend Landscape Daff odil Barrett Browning Tulip Lambada Allium New York 1-800-852-5243 bluestoneperennials.com Beautiful Spring Blooming Bulbs Let us help get your garden blooming with our distinctive spring blooming bulbs. We are pleased to off er the fi nest fl owering bulbs from Europe for fall planting. Visit our online Bulb Gallery today!

Photos: courtesy of the contributors 12 FINE GARDENING | AUGUST 2024 Ed Lyon has worked for over 20 years in nurseries and public gardens and is currently the director of Reiman Gardens at Iowa State University in Ames, Iowa. He has also taught public, student, and professional audiences through his business, Spellbound Garden Writing and Consultation. Ed is the author of Growing the Midwest Garden, published by Timber Press in 2015. He has also served on the executive board of the Perennial Plant Association. Throughout his roles in public garden administration and his hands-on experience in the green industry, he has proven to be just as passionate about education as he is about horticulture. Ian Gribble and Catharine Cooke met in New Zealand in 1987 while on hiatus from their jobs—he as a land manager for his family’s dairy farm in Kent, England, and she as the owner of a graphic arts studio in New York City. They decided to marry and settle in the United States, and to change careers. Both studied at New York Botanical Gardens; Ian graduated from the School of Professional Horticulture, and Catharine completed the Landscape Design Certificate Program. Together they started Spring Lake Garden Design in Connecticut and have never looked back. Their gardens will be on display July 27, 2024, through the Garden Conservancy Open Days. It’s amazing that Jeff Epping has time to garden for himself at all. In 2009 he founded Epping Design and Consulting with a mission to help others create beautiful, ecologically beneficial landscapes. He recently retired after almost three decades as director of horticulture at Olbrich Botanical Gardens in Madison, Wisconsin, where environmentally conscious gardening has always been central. In his “spare” time, you’ll find Jeff leading garden tours around the globe, often sharing his favorite private gardens with select groups of avid gardeners. How does he do it all? An active lifestyle that includes biking, kayaking, and trekking through mountainous regions of Costa Rica and other countries certainly helps! CONTRIBUTING THIS ISSUE Advertising Sales Michelle Kraemer Representative 715-318-0946 [email protected] Director, Consumer Marketing Matthew Ulland Senior Marketing Manager, Customer Acquisition Sara Springborn Marketing Manager Danielle Pendergast Senior VP, Content Rob Yagid Director, Sales Operations Heather Glynn Gniazdowski Chairman & CEO Andrew W. Clurman Chairman Emeritus Efrem Zimbalist III Chief Operating Officer Brian Van Heuverswyn Chief Financial Officer Adam Smith Chief Revenue Officer Gary DeSanctis Senior VP, Marketing Erica Moynihan VP, Marketing Amanda Phillips VP, Circulation Paige Nordmeyer VP, Sales Operations Christine Nilsen VP, Events Julie Zub VP, Digital Content Development Ashley MacDonald VP, Research & Strategy Kristina Swindell Director, Human Resources Scott Roeder Director, Production Phil Graham Director, Retail Sales Susan A. Rose Director, Information Technology Andrew Shattuck

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Photos, from top to bottom: courtesy of Stephanie Fried; Carol Collins; courtesy of Wendy Lagozzino. Illustration: Seamartini/dreamstime.com. 14 FINE GARDENING | AUGUST 2024 READERS’ TIPS | FROM ONE GARDENER TO ANOTHER | Prune ornamental grasses without making a mess Spring cleanup can be a real mess. If you cut your own ornamental grasses, that’s especially true if it’s a windy day and you’re dealing with taller grasses (e.g., Miscanthus, Panicum) blowing everywhere as they’re cut and fall over. To prevent this, I take a roll of jute twine to the garden on grass-cleanup day, along with my pruners. I cut an appropriate length of twine, fashioning a little lariat before segmenting a clump of grass into halves, thirds, or quarters (depending upon the girth of the plant). I run the twine end around the grass stems and through the loop, pulling it tight to create a lasso and then tying it off about halfway up the height of the plant. I then prune those stems and have a tidy intact sheaf to put to the side. When I’ve pruned the entire plant this way, the bundles are ready for the compost pile. —Tony Fulmer, Arlington Heights, Illinois Cut flowers are happiest after a hot bath Before cutting fresh flowers from the garden, I fill an insulated travel mug with very hot water. I bring the mug out to the garden. The wide base steadies the mug so I can set it down safely. While I explore the garden, the water stays hot and is ready for each cutting to be plunged in, immediately sealing the stem. If I’m only cutting a few flowers, I’ll keep the top on the mug and open its spout. After cutting all the flowers, I bring the mug inside and arrange the flowers in a pretty vase. My cut flowers remain fresh much longer. —Patty Regojo, Swarthmore, Pennsylvania Before you toss those old scallions in the compost . . . I planted some wilted grocery store scallions (with short roots attached) 3 inches deep and 2 inches apart in potting soil. I have Container liners from a fan palm My mother is in her eighties, though you would never know it. She is also an avid gardener, and my visits always consist of a garden tour followed by a tongue lashing (aka cussing out) of the squirrels terrorizing her yard. This fall she noticed they were taking the fallen husks off her fan palm for their nests. She started picking them up and sometimes stripping them off the tree herself. We now use these husks as coco-liner substitutes and screens at the bottom of pots to hold soil in. —Stephanie Fried, Covington, Louisiana watered them well, and the little plants have rewarded me with large, succulent onion leaves for the past 10 months. They have thrived in my southwest Florida garden with heavy rains and abundant sunshine. They are more reliable than chives, which hibernate during hot weather. —Mary Crum, Fort Myers, Florida If you can’t stand the heat, get out of the birdhouse I put up a large birdhouse for flickers that was immediately taken over by squirrels. Wanting to discourage this for the following year, I plugged the entry hole with a large branch stub. Squirrels have since returned yearly to gnaw at the wood to gain entry again. Trying to prevent this, I painted the areas they had chewed with a habanero-based sauce. To avoid having to climb a tall ladder to access the house, I taped a paintbrush to a long piece of lumber and made several applications of the hot sauce. Too bad I wasn’t around to see their reaction when they came back! But so far, it looks as if they have moved on to milder abodes. —Wendy Lagozzino, Seattle Tree-root removal An easy way to remove small tree roots is to use a reciprocating saw. The secret is to keep the blade away from submerged rocks. To do this, slide the blade and move it through the roots gradually. —John Dyster, Lewiston, New York SHARE YOUR TIPS WITH US If you have a gardening tip, send it to [email protected]. We pay $25 for each tip we publish. The prize for the winning tip is a one-year subscription to Fine Gardening. WINNING TIP

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16 FINE GARDENING | AUGUST 2024 | MULTIUSE TOOLS WITH A BIG BANG FOR THE BUCK | GARDEN SHED For direct links to purchase these tools, scan the QR code or go to FineGardening.com/web-extras. These versatile tubs can haul anything from weeds to water TESTED BY MARK DWYER The Gorilla Tubs from Red Gorilla are made of a thick rubberized plastic. They are high quality, durable, and seem to have limitless potential. I’ve used them for many years for a whole range of tasks, including hauling tools, weeds, mulch, and harvested veggies, and mixing soil with amendments. The large, flexible handles can be squeezed together easily, which also makes it possible to use the tubs as watering cans. Gorilla Tubs come in many sizes, colors, and styles, and they are easy to clean and stack. Red Gorilla also offers tubs that are made of 100% recycled plastic. Sizes range from 12.5 ounces to 19.8 gallons. PRICE: $2 to $39 SOURCE: redgorillausa.com Use this weeder to scrape roots, to plant, and to work soil TESTED BY MARK DWYER This lightweight hand tool is a favorite of mine. The CobraHead weeder and cultivator has a comfortable handle made out of recycled materials and a narrow, curved, tempered-steel blade that works exceptionally well in tight spaces. The precision, versatility, and sturdiness of this tool extend its value to a whole range of tasks. I use it for weeding between the cracks of my flagstone patio or in gravel paths; for digging up the deep, noxious roots of quack grass; for breaking up soil; and for planting smaller plugs and bulbs. While we use this tool frequently at the garden where I work, in my home garden I also use one that I’ve had for 18 years and is still going strong. PRICE: $30 SOURCE: cobrahead.com Take the strain off your body with this two-way kneeler TESTED BY MARK DWYER I’ve seen many gardeners become immediate fans of this garden kneeler that easily flips over to become a sturdy padded bench. Well balanced and very stable, it has an extra-thick, ¾-inch cushion that is larger than standard kneeling pads. Sturdy arms that are locked in place assist you when you are standing up from a bent-over position. These arms then become the legs of the comfortable bench when flipped. The heavy-duty, powder-coated steel frame can be folded for compact storage. While the bench supports up to 250 pounds, it only weighs 9 pounds, making it easy to transport. It’s also very simple to clean. PRICE: $60 SOURCE: gardeners.com Mark Dwyer is the garden manager for the Edgerton Hospital Healing Garden in Wisconsin, and he operates Landscape Prescriptions by MD.

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18 FINE GARDENING | AUGUST 2024 Photos: courtesy of the contributors This hose will help you water your garden and design new ones TESTED BY COURTNEY OLANDER I first came across the Nifty Grower expandable 50-foot hose at the home of a client who used it on her deck to water her numerous summer containers. I noticed how she could easily pull it from pot to pot without damaging the delicate flowers cascading down the sides. The expandable polyester material makes it lightweight, kink-free, and much less clunky than a traditional rubber hose. Once my client turned the water off, the hose quickly shrank in size, allowing it to be rolled up and set aside with ease. Purchasing one for myself was a no-brainer. However, I soon found another use for it. It’s the perfect tool for when I’m planning a garden and trying to figure out the shape of hardscaping or of a new garden bed. I simply lay the hose on the ground and move it around into the desired shape, which helps me to visualize the space. PRICE: $40 SOURCE: amazon.com A saw sharp enough to cut through plants thick or thin TESTED BY COURTNEY OLANDER I purchased my Felco 600 folding saw when I took my very first pruning class. More than 10 years later, it’s still with me. Not only is it durable, but the sharp steel blade with heattreated teeth and the lightweight, ergonomic pull design make it comfortable and painless to use. I’ve cut branches over 6 inches in diameter with no problems. After years of using this saw to cut through wood, I found that it’s also the perfect tool to cut back my ornamental grasses in the fall. It’s sharp enough to easily swipe through the bulk of the foliage one-handed while I hold the top of the grass with my other hand. The blade then folds to be put away safely. The bright red handle is a bonus. I don’t know about you, but I tend to lay my tools down in the middle of a project and forget where they are, but this one is easy to spot. PRICE: $30 SOURCE: felco.com Courtney Olander is a landscape designer based in Seattle. GARDEN SHED continued from page 16

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SUPER COOL PLANTS | FIND OUT WHAT THE EXPERTS ARE GROWING | 20 FINE GARDENING | AUGUST 2024 ‘Ambassador’ allium Allium ‘Ambassador’ ZONES: 4–8 CONDITIONS: Full sun; well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Central and southwestern Asia This towering beauty is just what your early summer garden is missing I have grown alliums for their stunning architectural form for years, but one is by far my favorite: ‘Ambassador’. Although its bulb is related to garlic, onions, and shallots, this ornamental garden variety is a show-stopper. There are many other allium cultivars out there, ranging in size, color, and form, but ‘Ambassador’ rises to the top of my list for a lot of reasons. Blooming for us in central North Carolina in late spring to early summer, ‘Ambassador’ adds an exclamation point to our beds and borders. It is known for its longer bloom time and upright, sturdy stems that hold high the 6- to 7-inch rounded clusters of deep purple starlike flowers. Extremely easy to grow, it thrives year after year in many different soil types, from clay-loam to sandy grit. Once established, this variety can tolerate drier conditions, but it does not like wet feet. Like all alliums, ‘Ambassador’ is great at attracting pollinators but isn’t favored by rabbits, deer, or rodents. At Sarah P. Duke Gardens at Duke University, we interplant ‘Ambassador’ with other perennials and annuals that offer color at the same bloom time. ‘Moonshine’ yarrow (Achillea ‘Moonshine’, Zones 3–9), giant silver mullein (Verbascum bombyciferum, Zones 4–8), and forms of foxglove (Digitalis purpurea and cvs., Zones 4–8) all brilliantly complement the bright purple globes that rise above all else. Visitors always ask about these stunning beauties. Some gardeners even grow ‘Ambassador’ as cut flowers, but in my beds I leave the inflorescences to fade to green. Then I cut the stalks so that the old flowers can hold their form as they dry and turn brown. Later they can be used in dried-flower arrangements and even lightly spray-painted for holiday décor. The key is to give thought to where ‘Ambassador’ allium would make the most impact in your garden, then buy dormant bulbs to plant in fall. The fist-size bulbs should be planted 6 to 8 inches deep. Do this when other perennials have begun dying down for winter, and then forget about them. Next year the strappy green leaves will expand through spring, and by early summer you will be blown away by purple spheres of color. Let the foliage die and leave the bulbs to perennialize. If you notice the flower clusters getting too small, dig and divide the bulbs, sharing the offsets with your friends. Jason Holmes is a curator and horticulturist at Sarah P. Duke Gardens at Duke University in Durham, North Carolina. 3 to 4 feet tall 1 foot wide Photo this page: Nancy J. Ondra. Illustrations: Elara Tanguy. | SOURCES | • John Scheepers, Bantam, CT; 860-567-0838; johnscheepers.com • White Flower Farm, Torrington, CT; 800-503-9624; whiteflowerfarm.com

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22 Photos this page: Danielle Sherry (top); courtesy of Walters Gardens Inc. (bottom) FINE GARDENING | AUGUST 2024 SUPER COOL PLANTS continued from page 20 | S O U R C E S | • Digging Dog Nursery, Albion, CA; 707-937-1235; diggingdog.com • Wood Thrush Natives, Floyd, VA; 215-272-1843; woodthrushnatives.com ‘Purring Tiger’ Siberian iris Iris sibirica ‘Purring Tiger’ ZONES: 3–9 SIZE: 18 inches tall and wide CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; consistently moist soil NATIVE RANGE: Europe, central Asia Siberian irises are known for filling the bloom gap between late spring and midsummer. They blossom after Japanese iris (I. ensata, Zones 4–9) but before bearded iris (I. germanica, Zones 3–9). This 2024 introduction sports a compact habit that allows it to hold the stems of heavy blooms aloft without fuss. Each flower has saffron-yellow signals (outer petals) highlighted by dusty purple-blue veins. The center is a solid amethyst hue. The interesting, tiger-like striping is certainly the cat’s meow. UP & COMER | S O U R C E | Vermont Wildflower Farm Hinesburg, VT; 855-846-9453 vermontwildflowerfarm.com It’s short, stout, and has truly unique coloring for an iris 2½ feet wide 5 feet tall Mohr’s rosinweed Silphium mohrii ZONES: 5–8 CONDITIONS: Full sun; well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Southeastern United States An impressive native pollinator plant with an undeniable presence I was first introduced to Mohr’s rosinweed on a botanizing trip to northern Alabama. It’s a true native stalwart and one of the many durable plants in the genus Silphium that are indigenous to prairies, meadows, and grasslands across the United States. These resilient members of the aster family are known to be both beautiful and extremely low maintenance in a garden setting. Mohr’s rosinweed has a definite architectural quality, with wiry stems that rise from the basal clump of hairy foliage. The daisy-like summer flowers are a soft sulfur yellow and are slightly fragrant. The 2-inch-wide blooms are borne atop stems reaching up to 5 feet tall. As with the many other members of this family, the center part of the blossom makes seeds that are adored by the American goldfinch. The foliage has large, lance-like leaves that are hard to ignore. This species is host to the silphium borer moth (Papaipema silphia), and its nectar supports butterflies, bees, and wasps, which makes it a valuable pollinator plant. It can grow in various soil types, including well-drained, rocky, and sandy, and it can even put up with clay. Once established, this relatively long-lived perennial requires little care to look good. It will also tolerate extreme summer heat and drought-like conditions once established. Although Mohr’s rosinweed is a taller plant, it can be placed in the middle or at the front of the garden because its bulky foliage is concentrated at the bottom. Because you’re able to look through its tall flowering stems to see the plants behind it, Mohr’s rosinweed has been called a “see-through plant.” It combines particularly well with native grasses, including switchgrasses (Panicum virgatum and cvs., Zones 5–9) and little bluestems (Schizachyrium scoparium and cvs., Zones 3–9). The common name of Mohr’s rosinweed was chosen by American botanist John Small in 1897. It honors Charles Mohr, an Alabama-based pharmacist and botanist whose field studies led to the publication of Plant Life of Alabama after his death. Andrew Bunting is vice president of horticulture at the Pennsylvania Horticulture Society.

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HEALTHY GARDEN | SCIENCE-BASED INSIGHT FROM SOURCES YOU CAN TRUST | 24 FINE GARDENING | AUGUST 2024 UNDERSTANDING LIGHT CONDITIONS There is little you can do to control how much shade or sunlight a garden bed gets. Sure, you can cut down a tree to let in more sun or build a pergola for shade, but you can’t adjust the tilt of the earth. To find plants that will thrive in your garden, you need to get a handle on how much sunlight reaches each bed throughout the day and in all four seasons. Fortunately, with good observation skills and perhaps a new app on your phone, you can gather all the information you need to choose plants that will grow well in your garden’s brightest sun, deepest shade, and all the partially shaded places in between. GET FAMILIAR WITH THE TERMS Home gardeners and horticulture professionals define sun and shade conditions using a few broad categories that should be very familiar to most gardeners. But even if you have a general idea of the amount of sun or shade your garden gets, you may be surprised to discover how much of a difference a few extra hours of light or shade can make for some plants. Full sun is best for species and cultivars that are adapted to grow in open habitats. These plants typically require at least six hours of direct sunlight per day and include most food crops selected for their delicious fruit, roots, stems, seeds, or leaves. As a general rule, the more light these plants get, the larger and better they will grow, though every plant has an upper limit beyond which its health will begin to decline. A spot in full sun with reflected heat and light will be too bright for all but the most sun-loving plants. Full shade, at the other end of the spectrum, is ideal for species that grow and thrive with less than two hours of direct sunlight per day. These plants often have slower growth rates and larger leaves for intercepting filtered or reflected sunlight. There are some truly amazing plants that are adapted to grow under dense forest canopies, below mountain cliffs, and in other places where the sun doesn’t shine. In the home landscape, they might be quite content growing in deep shade under a deck, with only occasional slivers of sunlight slipping between the boards above. Deciduous shade can shift from being mostly full sun in MIDDAY SUN AFTERNOON SUN MORNING SUN FULL SUN FULL SHADE PARTIAL AFTERNOON SHADE AFTERNOON SHADE MORNING SUN AFTERNOON SHADE MORNING SHADE MORNING SHADE AFTERNOON SUN PARTIAL MORNING SHADE DAPPLED SHADE All gardens need light. In most landscapes, shadows cast by buildings and trees determine how much light reaches plants, and at what time of the day. PARTIAL SHADE BY JARED BARNES Illustrations: Gary Williamson

FINEGARDENING.COM 25 winter and early spring to being full shade in summer through fall. Certain woodland plants have adaptations that help them deal with this abundance of spring sunlight, such as producing anthocyanins that give new leaves a purplish color or going dormant after the canopy closes. Partial shade is best for plants that become stressed when grown in full sun but also don’t do very well in full shade. Our native flowering dogwood (Cornus florida and cvs., Zones 5–9), which originated in the dappled understories and edges of deciduous forests, is a good example of a “Goldilocks” plant that grows best in partial shade. When planting, keep in mind that the quality of partial light can vary based on the time of day when it hits the plant. Having full sun in the morning followed by afternoon shade is less stressful for most plants than having a shaded morning followed by blazing afternoon sun. Dappled shade, where light is filtered through overhead leaves throughout the day, is another version of partial shade where many plants thrive. DAY LENGTH AND LIGHT DIRECTION CHANGE WITH THE SEASONS As you have likely observed, the amount of light that reaches a garden bed is not constant throughout the year. Light levels change seasonally based on the sun’s track through the sky. Here in Texas we are bombarded by about three times as much light at the summer solstice as we are at the beginning of winter. This increase is partly because the days are longer, which translates to more hours of sunlight shining on our gardens. The summer sun is also more directly overhead, so the path its light takes through the earth’s atmosphere is shorter, and its light looks and feels more intense. Winter days are shorter, and because the winter sunlight passes through the atmosphere at an angle, the light that reaches the earth’s surface is more spread out. When sunlight is blocked by tall objects such as buildings and trees, the shadows cast by these objects also change with the seasons. Note how the directions of shadows change from season to season in the illustrations on this page. SUMMER NORTH WEST SOUTH EAST WINTER NORTH WEST SOUTH EAST In summer the sun is more directly overhead. This means morning shadows fall to the southwest and afternoon shadows to the southeast. In winter the sun’s track appears lower in the sky. This means morning shadows fall to the northwest and afternoon shadows to the northeast.

26 Photos: Carol Collins (top left); Jack Coyier (top right) Jared Barnes, Ph.D., is an associate professor of horticulture at Stephen F. Austin State University in Nacogdoches, Texas. Try the Sun Seeker app. It shows the sun’s path during the current season as a yellow line, its winter solstice path in blue, and its summer solstice path in red. HEALTHY GARDEN continued from page 25 WHAT KIND OF LIGHT DOES YOUR GARDEN GET? To determine how much sunlight a section of your garden gets, it is helpful to take pictures and record your observations at different times of the day over the course of a year. Note the time of day when the sun starts hitting a garden bed, and the time when it is shaded. Pay attention to how the sun interacts with the space around the winter and summer solstices, the two extremes of the solar calendar. To keep track of your images, tag them #light. Of course, you can also use modern technology to better understand your garden’s light conditions. My favorite application for this purpose is Sun Seeker ($9.99 from Apple’s App Store or Google Play). In 3D mode, this app uses augmented reality to show the sun’s arc through the sky superimposed over the view from your phone’s camera. Hours are marked out along the sun’s path, allowing you to quickly estimate how many hours of sunlight your garden will receive in the current season and at the summer and winter solstices. MATCHING PLANTS TO LIGHT CONDITIONS Once you have a good idea of how sunny or shady each part of your garden is, it will be much easier to find plants that grow well in every lighting situation. Here are a few key ideas to keep in mind. Research before buying. Garden centers usually sort plants based on their sun and shade requirements. Read labels, talk to nursery staff, and visit websites and online forums before buying the plants that catch your fancy. Take advantage of microclimates. A bed on the north side of the house that gets very little sun can be an ideal spot for growing unique, shade-loving species. Play off the light. There are some plants that look particularly beautiful when backlit by low-angle sunlight. Find a spot with great morning or afternoon light for plants such as canna (Canna × generalis, Zones 8–11), pink muhly grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris, Zones 5–9), and witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana and cvs., Zones 3–9). Keep an eye on new additions. Plants that get too much sunlight may wilt or develop scorched, bleached, or yellowing foliage. If a plant needs more light, it may become weak and leggy, or it may flower poorly. Most plants will bounce back quickly after being moved to a spot with better light conditions, so don’t be afraid to transplant if you make a mistake. Yellowing or burning is a sure sign. Damage like this to foliage is often an indication that a shade-loving plant is getting too much sunlight. There are plenty of plants for partial shade. This spot gets full shade in the morning but enough sun in the afternoon to keep a wide array of perennials and shrubs healthy and happy. FINE GARDENING | AUGUST 2024

Photo: 28 FINE GARDENING | DATE 20XX Use low-maintenance perennials, shrubs, and trees to add color and interest to your garden’s steepest spots BY CATHARINE COOKE AND IAN GRIBBLE PLANTS PERFECT FOR LOOK TO ADAPTABLE, LOW-MAINTENANCE PLANTS. Certain ground covers, perennials, trees, and shrubs are perfect for tying areas with steeper grades into a cohesive design.

FINEGARDENING.COM 29 Photos: courtesy of Spring Lake Garden Design (p. 28 and p. 29, bottom); Michelle Gervais (p. 29, top) Pennsylvania sedge softens a shaded slope Carex pensylvanica ZONES: 3–8 SIZE: 6 to 12 inches tall and wide CONDITIONS: Partial to full shade; average to dry, well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Eastern North America Slopes make everyday maintenance more difficult. If you are tired of mowing treacherously steep territory, an easy and economical solution is using a no-mow seed mix to establish a plant community that requires much less maintenance. Here are a few things to keep in mind. • Seek out a mix that will work with your hillside’s unique climate, light conditions, and soil. We use Prairie Nursery’s No-Mow Lawn Seed Mix, a combination of cool-season fescues. Site preparation is roughly the same as it would be for a traditional turf lawn. • Once the plants are firmly established, which usually takes about two years, the only maintenance needed is string trimming once or twice a season to keep saplings and other weeds from taking hold. • If you are in the mood, no-mow turf can also be raked or de-thatched once in a while. It has a lovely pillow-like effect, and the mix we use can handle both sun and shade. It works well as an underplanting for trees and spring-flowering bulbs, covering exposed tree roots and spent bulb foliage in style. | BEST PRACTICES | Sow no-mow turf as a planet-friendly lawn alternative We design gardens in northwestern Connecticut’s Litchfield Hills, and many of our clients’ properties have sections that are rocky and steep. Embracing the unique contours of each site, we have built rock gardens, terraces, and plantings that flow downhill. We see each hillside as an opportunity to put together a satisfying plant palette that is easy to maintain and beautiful to behold. A bonus with slopes is that they provide good drainage by their very nature. The first thing to consider when developing a planting plan is the direction the slope faces and the kind of sun exposure it has. Soil conditions and water availability will also help you decide what to plant. We are big proponents of working with what nature has provided. If there is ledge present, let it serve as your garden’s bones, and expose more ledge where you can instead of trying to cover it up. Starting from the ground up, we’ve assembled a list of some of our favorite tenacious stunners that will beautify almost any hillside. PERENNIALS COVER STEEP TERRAIN WITH TEMPTING TEXTURES Shade-loving Pennsylvania sedge is excellent when planted en masse, especially in areas where erosion control is needed. It has fine, arching, semi-evergreen foliage that can serve as a cloudlike lawn alternative in spots that are too shady for turfgrass and too steep to mow. It loves arid, well-drained soil, which makes it an ideal ground cover for dry shade. On a slope, plugs of Pennsylvania sedge can be placed 12 inches apart on center; the plants will quickly fill in to form a lush, dense carpet (photo facing page). For a similar look, sowing a no-mow seed mix (see below) is a budget-friendly alternative worth considering.

Photos this page: Nancy J. Ondra (top and bottom left); courtesy of Spring Lake Garden Design (bottom right). Photos facing page: Michelle Gervais (top); Jennifer Benner (bottom). 30 FINE GARDENING | AUGUST 2024 ‘Bevan’s Variety’ bigroot geranium is easy to propagate Geranium macrorrhizum ‘Bevan’s Variety’ ZONES: 4–8 SIZE: 9 to 12 inches tall and 18 to 24 inches wide CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; average to dry, well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Southern Europe ‘Immortality’ bearded iris looks lovely alone or in groups Iris germanica ‘Immortality’ ZONES: 3–9 SIZE: 24 to 30 inches tall and 12 to 24 inches wide CONDITIONS: Full sun; well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Southern Europe ‘Sulphureum’ epimedium is as charming as it is resilient Epimedium × versicolor‘Sulphureum’ ZONES: 5–9 SIZE: 9 to 12 inches tall and 9 to 18 inches wide CONDITIONS: Partial to full shade; average to dry, well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Hybrid

FINEGARDENING.COM 31 ‘Streibs Findling’ bearberry cotoneaster stays very low to the ground Cotoneaster dammeri ‘Streibs Findling’ ZONES: 5–8 SIZE: 1 foot tall and 6 feet wide CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Central and southern China ‘Sulphureum’ epimedium is another tough, deciduous ground cover that handles dry shade without complaint. It blooms in early spring, so we like to cut back the old growth in late winter and carefully apply a layer of fine, dark-colored mulch to enhance the exuberant, sulphur-yellow floral display. The heart-shaped leaves emerge with red tints, maturing to form lovely green mounds that flush red again in autumn. It is a great companion plant for spring-blooming bulbs and other ephemerals that die back in summer. By then, ‘Sulphureum’ will step in to fill the space with neat masses of foliage. If you are looking for a fast-growing ground cover for a dry, sunny spot, ‘Bevan’s Variety’ bigroot geranium could be just the plant you need. Its thick rhizomes make it quite drought tolerant and helpful for stabilizing steep grades. The roots and stems spread gradually outward to form a 2-footwide mat. To help the plants spread even more quickly, we break off stems in spring and scratch them right into the soil in a new location. These cuttings will need to be kept moist until they root, but once they are established they will take care of themselves. ‘Bevan’s Variety’ has deep magenta flowers and nicely scented foliage that can be semi-evergreen in milder winter climates. ‘Immortality’ bearded iris is a reliable rebloomer that delivers bountiful clear white flowers with pale yellow throats in both spring and fall. Masses of the crisp, fresh blooms look stunning standing tall on a hillside, and a single plant exudes regal elegance when set against a rock or surrounded by a clean green carpet of ground cover. Pair it with a silver-leaved companion for a frosty color effect. ‘Little Spire’ Russian sage offers a welcome dose of late summer blue for any well-drained spot with full sun. This cultivar has the same silvery foliage and airy texture as the straight species, just delivered in a smaller, tidier package. While masses of Russian sage do look quite charming sprawling over each other on an embankment, if you are looking for a more managed, vertical rock garden element, ‘Little Spire’ is your best bet. LOW, SPREADING SHRUBS ARE EXCELLENT FOR EROSION CONTROL ‘Streibs Findling’ bearberry cotoneaster is a tiny, densely branched evergreen that is perfect for erosion control in a sloped rock garden. Layers of small, glossy, blue-green leaves create a flowing ground cover that inhibits the growth of weeds. Branches are adorned with abundant star-shaped white flowers in spring and bright red berries in fall. The habit is very low and nicely spreading, with individual plants reaching up to 6 feet in width. Adaptable to either full sun or partial shade, ‘Streibs Findling’ is somewhat deer resistant and definitely worth a try. ‘Little Spire’ Russian sage does not flop Salvia yangii ‘Little Spire’ ZONES: 5–9 SIZE: 24 to 30 inches tall and 18 to 24 inches wide CONDITIONS: Full sun; dry to average, well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Southwestern and central Asia

32 FINE GARDENING | AUGUST 2024 Southern bush honeysuckle has strong roots that will hold an embankment in place Diervilla sessilifolia ZONES: 5–8 SIZE: 3 to 6 feet tall and wide CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; average to dry, well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Southeastern United States

FINEGARDENING.COM 33 Photos facing page: Nancy J. Ondra. Photo this page: Daryl Beyers. Illustration: Elara Tanguy. 1 Vertical trees and shrubs create engaging visual dynamics. For focal points that draw attention and create movement on a steep grade, fastigiate plants will not disappoint. 2 Use weeping trees for a cascading effect. Trailing branches that gently draw the eye downward combined with the verticality of a slope create a lively visual tension. 3 Create tapestries of texture and color. Combine low-growing shrubs and perennials that love the good drainage a slope provides. Heaths (Erica spp. and cvs., Zones 5–8) and heathers (Calluna vulgaris and cvs., Zones 5–8) thrive in these conditions. 4 Consider terracing. If you need to access the slope, a series of terraces with steps in between can make a hill feel less high. With each terrace comes another opportunity for garden beds that are relatively flat. Retaining walls help with erosion and make the slope even more accessible. 5 For a refined look, try planting in drifts. An uninterrupted swathe of no-mow grass, low-growing shrubs, or any other minimalistic ground cover will help the slope blend in quietly. ‘Nikko’ slender deutzia smothers itself in summer blossoms Deutzia gracilis ‘Nikko’ ZONES: 5–8 SIZE: 1 to 2 feet tall and 2 to 5 feet wide CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; average to moderately moist, well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Japan ‘Nikko’ slender deutzia is a slow-growing, broadly mounded shrub with an abundance of elegant, clear white flowers in early summer. This plant is ideal for siting next to a rock or low wall to soften and settle it. We also like growing it under paper birch trees (Betula papyrifera and cvs., Zones 2–7); in summer the crisp blooms heighten the effect of the trees’ white bark, and in fall ‘Nikko’ has deep purple foliage that contrasts nicely with the birches’ golden leaves. Southern bush honeysuckle, which is native to the southern Appalachian Mountains, is another excellent shrub for stabilizing slopes. Although it spreads by underground rhizomes, it is not unruly or intrusive. This adaptable shrub sports fragrant, trumpet-shaped summer flowers that attract hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees over a long period from June to August. The only maintenance it needs is a little general shaping and a light cutback of old stems after it finishes flowering. | DESIGN IDEAS | Use plant architecture to make a slope more interesting Hillside plantings should be easy to maintain, but they don’t need to be monotonous. Here are a few tips for enhancing the effect of a sloping site. 5 1 2 3 4

Photos this page: millettephotomedia.com (top left and bottom right); courtesy of Spring Lake Garden Design (top right). Photo facing page: millettephotomedia.com. 34 FINE GARDENING | AUGUST 2024 ‘Taylor’ eastern red cedar has a narrow, vertical form Juniperus virginiana ‘Taylor’ ZONES: 4–9 SIZE: 15 to 20 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide CONDITIONS: Full sun; average to moist, well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Eastern North America Heritage® river birch is stunning in every season Betula nigra ‘Cully’ ZONES: 4–9 SIZE: 40 to 70 feet tall and 40 to 60 feet wide CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; average to wet soil NATIVE RANGE: Eastern North America ‘Daub’s Frosted’ juniper is a great evergreen with bluegreen needles that are frosted with pale-gold new growth at the branch tips. Some sources say it only grows 2 feet tall and 5 feet wide, but we have a beauty on our hillside that has grown well beyond those dimensions. Photos of this plant do not do it justice; it is truly best appreciated in person. Its arching branches grow in layers, with each one a bit longer than the one above, giving it an exceptionally graceful appearance descending down a slope. Our specimen looks great every month of the year, and the deer have not touched it. TREES CREATE VERTICAL ACCENTS AND SERVE UP SEASONAL COLOR Heritage® river birch is a fast-growing cultivar of a beloved native species with good disease and pest resistance. The exfoliating bark adds year-round interest, especially in winter. Although river birch is often found along stream banks and flood plains in the wild, we have successfully grown several specimens on high, dry, sunny hillsides. It actually prefers lean soil; if the soil is too rich, the wood becomes weak over time. The glossy leaves flutter beautifully in the wind, and the tree has a soft gentleness that could enhance almost any design. ‘Taylor’ eastern red cedar has a narrow, columnar habit that is quite useful for creating a strong vertical accent on a hill. If you like the appearance of Italian cypress (Cupressus sempervirens, Zones 7–10), this is a cold-hardy alternative that could be used to achieve a similar effect in a sunny spot with good air circulation. The silvery blue–green foliage is evergreen, providing good year-round garden structure, and is also very deer resistant. ‘Daub’s Frosted’ juniper has new growth that glows Juniperus × pfitzeriana ‘Daub’s Frosted’ ZONES: 4–9 SIZE: 1 to 2 feet tall and 3 to 6 feet wide CONDITIONS: Full sun; well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Hybrid

FINEGARDENING.COM 35 | SOURCES | The following mail-order sellers offer many of the plants featured here: • American Meadows, Shelburne, VT; 802-227-7200 americanmeadows.com • Bluestone Perennials, Madison, OH; 800-852-5243 bluestoneperennials.com • Dancing Oaks Nursery, Monmouth, OR; 503-838-6058 dancingoaks.com • Forestfarm, Williams, OR; 541-846-7269 forestfarm.com • Midwest Groundcovers, St. Charles, IL; 847-742-1790 midwestgroundcovers ‘Pendula Rosea’ weeping cherry adds movement to a hillside design Prunus pendula ‘Pendula Rosea’ ZONES: 5–8 SIZE: 15 to 25 feet tall and wide CONDITIONS: Full sun to partial shade; moist, fertile, well-drained soil NATIVE RANGE: Japan ‘Pendula Rosea’ weeping cherry is a splendid cultivar with classic, single pink flowers that are a welcome sight in spring. It is frequently top-grafted onto hardy rootstock that provides the height needed for this tree to properly display its weeping habit. The branches trail over each other in stacked layers that gracefully descend one upon the other, creating a sloped appearance. Be sure to watch for graft reversions, and promptly prune out any nonweeping suckers that emerge. For a gardener who is creatively inclined, a sloping site can be full of potential. Choose your plants with care, and you can create a hillside combination that lifts your spirits each time you see it. Catharine Cooke and Ian Gribble are the principal designers and owners of Spring Lake Garden Design in Sherman, Connecticut.

Photo: 36 FINE GARDENING | DATE 20XX IT IS POSSIBLE TO HAVE A GARDEN THAT’S ATTRACTIVE TO HUMANS AND BUGS ALIKE. This shady, suburban lot is hopping with activity from visitors of all kinds. The textural array of native and nonnative plants keeps both the gardener and the local wildlife happy year-round.

DESIGN AN ENGAGING, NATURALISTIC GARDEN IN THE shade This well-structured, ecologically friendly backyard is a wonderful place for creatures of all kinds to hang out BY JEFF EPPING

Photos, except where noted: Danielle Sherry. Photo this page, bottom: courtesy of Jeff Epping. 38 FINE GARDENING | AUGUST 2024 T wenty-five years ago when my wife Kathy and I started searching for a new home for our growing family, she focused on all the qualities one looks for in a new house. I, of course, looked at what every gardener considers imperative—the lot. Thanks to Kathy, we ended up with a wonderful new place. And much to my delight, the property had one particularly important feature—good soil. The other nice bonus was that the backyard bordered a small city park, with lots of open space for the kids to play, so my garden design did not have to include an area for kicking a soccer ball. Plant-wise, however, there wasn’t much other than invasive shrubs and trees. So after removing all the nasty invasives, I had a clean slate to work with. Starting a new garden from scratch can be daunting, but it’s also a fantastic opportunity to create exactly what you want. My vision was based on the many small English gardens that I was lucky enough to visit in previous years—not the gardens with impeccably maintained lawns and neatly clipped hedges, but those that had plants spilling out of every nook and cranny. Our landscape has been slowly undergoing a transformation over the past decade, from a traditional shade garden to a more naturalistic one that embraces an ecology-first mindset (photo top). This evolution, however, hasn’t sacrificed the original intention of my dream garden—that it be a visually appealing space with plenty of activity. FROM A TYPICAL SUBURBAN LOT TO AN ECOLOGICAL OASIS. Over two decades ago, this quarter-acre backyard was filled with turf and invasive species and had open access to a public park (above). Today it has more privacy and is a shady haven for the homeowners and local wildlife (top).

FINEGARDENING.COM 39 BUILD A STRONG A CONNECTION BETWEEN THE HOUSE AND THE GARDEN I was more than a little excited to start working on the new landscape, but adding some much-needed living space to the residence was a more urgent task. We built a new kitchen and living area off the back of the house, but we stressed to our architect that bringing the garden into our home was a big priority. The new back wall of the addition included a double set of French doors and kitchen windows that would allow us beautiful views of the soon-to-be-built garden (photo above, bottom right). The lot sloped away from the house, so we had to deal with a 6-foot drop from the door thresholds to ground level. The easiest and cheapest solution would have been to build a raised deck, but that would have required view-blocking railings and put us high above the garden rather than enabling us to feel like we were in it. Instead, we designed an elevated patio with three steps down to the entertaining area (centered on one set of the French doors), which then has only two steps to the garden, putting us in the garden instead of on top of it (photo above, top right). Once the construction project was complete, I began to work on the paths and plantings with what little money was left in the budget. I built a central stepping-stone path centered on the staircase that guides the eye from the house and patio out to the park, taking full advantage of the borrowed view (photo above, left). On the back lot line, I constructed a short wall out of the same rustic blocks that the patio walls are built of, tying together the two spaces with similar materials, yet separating the garden from the park. CREATE A FULLY INTEGRATED LANDSCAPE. The back patio was built so it could be completely immersed in the garden. There are only a few steps leading down to the main park path (left) and up from the driveway entrance (top). The back doors allow a perfect view into the outdoor expanse (bottom).

40 FINE GARDENING | AUGUST 2024 A MORE RELAXED PLANTING PLAN PROVIDES VISUAL AND ECOLOGICAL IMPACT Structural plants were the focus after the hardscape was complete. I chose ‘Whitespire’ gray birch (Betula populifolia ‘Whitespire’, Zones 3–6) first for a few reasons. Its upright habit would obscure the utility lines but not interfere with them too severely. It has beautiful bark that would be even more visible if lower limbs were removed, and doing so would allow nice views into the park (photo above, bottom right). And it was a tribute to my professor and mentor who introduced the cultivar. Several other trees were then added to provide height and beauty and to eventually create the shade that would make the backyard more enjoyable for people. A triad of Canadian hemlock (Tsuga canadensis, Zones 3–7) helped hide a utility pole at the back of the lot (photo facing page). We couldn’t get shade quick enough next to the seating area on the patio, so the fast-growing trembling aspen (Populus tremuloides, Zones 2–8) was chosen not only for its rapid growth but for its pleasing taupe bark and lovely quaking leaves. I knew these aspens wouldn’t last forever due to their aggressive suckering nature, but they provided shade while a slower-growing ‘White Tigress’ maple (Acer ‘White Tigress’, Zones 4–9) sized up (photo top). Shrubs and herbaceous plants were next on the list. At first the garden exposure was full sun, so I designed mixed borders that were chock-full of sun-loving perennials. As the structural trees grew larger and produced more shade, these initial plantings were no longer happy, nor was the once-lush Kentucky bluegrass lawn that occupied the center area. The garden, as MIX WOODIES AND HERBACEOUS PLANTS FOR MAXIMUM APPEAL. A choice maple provides needed shade to the main outdoor living space (top), while birches offer yearround interest at the rear of the garden (far right). Native perennials fill in the bulk of the square footage, with species such as northern maidenhair fern (Adiantum pedatum, Zones 3–8) and hairy alumroot providing great texture (near right).

FINEGARDENING.COM 41 all gardens do, evolved over the years—as did my philosophy on gardening. When I started, I cared most about making the landscape beautiful for me and the other people who spent time in it and didn’t devote much time worrying about the creatures that lived—or could have lived—there. Around this time, by good fortune, I spoke at a gardening conference with renowned entomologist and author Doug Tallamy. After I heard his lecture on the importance of using more natives in our gardens, I was all in. Though I utilized a decent number of native plants in my initial design, I certainly could have used more. So I killed off what was left of the lawn and “plugged in” three native species—rosy sedge (Carex rosea, Zones 4–8), Pennsylvania sedge (C. pensylvanica, Zones 3–8), and eastern star sedge (C. radiata, Zones 4–8). In the years following, I have added many other Carex species to create a tapestry of soothing green shades (photo top). Among the sedges, I planted a multitude of forbs that give the garden color throughout the seasons. For spring interest and to provide nectar for early emerging bees, I planted an array of native spring ephemerals. Plants adding later-season drama include bugbanes (Actaea spp. and cvs., Zones 4–8), which offer some height, and meadow rues (Thalictrum spp. and cvs., Zones 4–7), which—much to my delight—reseed freely. White wood aster (Eurybia divaricata, Zones 3–8) also helps brighten up the shade with its brilliant white flowers. Among several fall bloomers are tall Joe Pye weed (Eupatorium fistulosum, Zones 4–9) and hairy alumroot (Heuchera villosa, Zones 4–9). And there are tons of wonderful ferns that all thrive in this shady spot. These beautiful native species form the foundation of my garden now and are infused with 25 to 30 percent nonnatives. Select exotic species bridge floral gaps when the native species aren’t blooming. A MATRIX OF SEDGES PROVIDES A STAGE FOR OTHER NATIVE PLANTS TO SHINE. The base of the back garden is an array of Carex species that provide the illusion of turf but are more eco-friendly. Popping up through those are groupings of other native plants, both flowering and not. The result is a textural tapestry backed by a block of Canadian hemlocks that screen an ugly utility pole. While sitting in the rustic chairs at the center, you‘re able to witness the constant show put on by the resident population of pollinators and songbirds.

Photo facing page, bottom left: courtesy of Jeff Epping 42 FINE GARDENING | AUGUST 2024 | PLANTING TIP | Don’t be afraid of self-sowers Plants that freely reseed, such as meadow rue, are the true workhorses of my garden. They fill holes and nudge out unwanted weed seedlings, adding beauty in the process. In spring they are easily removed or transplanted if they aren’t growing where you want them. Or you can leave them to fill gaps between slower-growing perennials and then pluck them out later if they’ve grown too big for their neighbors. ENSURE THAT ONGOING MAINTENANCE AND SUBSTITUTIONS ARE ALL ECO-FRIENDLY With good planning, I’ve been able to have a garden that has something in bloom every month during the growing season. After all, we gardeners are most drawn to colorful blossoms in the landscape. At the same time, with “right plant, right place” in mind, it’s important to choose eco-friendly plants welladapted to a site’s conditions so they can live well on what Mother Nature provides, which is more important than ever given our changing climate. Over the years the plants in my garden have taught me to become a lighter-handed gardener and to work with them instead of against them. These days I find myself acting more like a manager or referee than a “maintainer” that methodically mulches, weeds, and waters. When something dies off, I select a replacement based on the conditions of the space, what I think will play well with neighboring plants, and what contributes to the whole of the garden and the environment. I try to choose plants that help support insects, birds, and other creatures without the input of supplemental water, fertilizers, fuel, and other chemicals. The needy, noncontributing “look at me” plants that I used to grow mainly to impress those that visited my garden have fallen by the wayside. Some exceptions are in a few pots and planters on the patio, but even those are selected to help support hungry hummingbirds and bees. I have heard many a gardener lament that they are “forced” to garden in shade, but I am not one of those; I love my little shade garden and all the plants and animals it supports. Jeff Epping is the principal designer at Epping Design and Consulting and the former director of horticulture at Olbrich Botanical Gardens in Madison, Wisconsin. WHAT DO OAKS AND PATIO POTS HAVE IN COMMON? In this space they both serve an ecological purpose. When one of the original trees died, it was replaced with a white oak (Quercus alba, Zones 3–8), a native keystone plant (top). Patio pots are filled with native species and hummingbird favorites (above), all of which will be transplanted into the garden later.

Photo: FINEGARDENING.COM 43 | DESIGN IDEAS | Steps for creating a more eco-friendly garden For years I’ve heard the same refrain: You can’t have a good-looking garden that is also eco-friendly. It seems that many folks think native plants are too wild looking and that taking a lighter approach to garden cleanup or care will lead to a messy, unkempt landscape. I argue that there are small steps everyone can take to encourage greater biodiversity in their space, all while keeping it attractive. To see some plant IDs for this garden, scan the QR code or go to FineGardening.com/web-extras. PROVIDE ORDERLY FRAMES. This step is less about being eco-friendly and more about reining in the wild look that sometimes comes with naturalistic gardens. Simple sculptures, stone pathways, a two-chair seating area (photo p. 41), and neatly pruned evergreens such as the boxwood (Buxus cv., Zones 4–9) shown here are all important “cues of care,” to use a term coined by landscape architect Joan Nassauer. They are essential elements in letting others know that the look of the garden is deliberate and helping them accept the unconventional “messiness” of an ecofriendly garden. MAKE YOUR CONTAINERS WORK HARDER. The pots and planters on my deck are not only for ornamental purposes; they also contain plants that provide food for bees, butterflies, and rubythroated hummingbirds. In addition, I use the patio as a nursery of sorts. I often purchase small perennials that I plan to enjoy in pots for the season and then plant in the garden in fall. This reduces the number of energy-consumptive and expendable annuals I use. LEAVE THE LEAVES. I utilize the whole leaves that fall from the trees within my garden for mulching, and I even add some leaves from neighbors’ trees that they rake to the curb. I’ve never had a problem with plants being unable to emerge in spring or being “smothered” to death by this naturalistic mulch approach. BUILD SOME POLLINATOR HOUSES AND LOG WALLS. You can supply all the pollen and nectar on the planet, but unless you provide a place for pollinators to shelter and overwinter, they won’t make your garden a home. I use commercially available reusable wooden trays and fill bricks with small cardboard tubes and hollow stems from garden perennials such as meadow rue or Joe Pye weed to create pollinator houses. I also create artistic wooden log walls in areas of the garden for the same purpose. CREATE A BIRD SANCTUARY. Native plants provide food for insects, and in turn those insects provide food for birds. Tucking garden debris behind plants at the perimeter of the garden provides habitat for many species of beetles, wasps, and other bird food sources. The numerous trees and shrubs within the landscape function as shelter to winged visitors, while birdhouses are key for cavity nesters. Tube feeders in winter and an open water source also encourage a healthy bird population. FINEGARDENING.COM 43

Photo: 44 FINE GARDENING | DATE 20XX MAKE A STATEMENT WITH Incandescent flowers, fine grasslike foliage, and surprising hardiness can give your beds and borders sizzle over a long season BY RICHARD HAWKE ‘Orange Blaze’ RED-HOT POKERS P L A N T T R I A L R E S U LT S

FINEGARDENING.COM 45 Photos, except where noted: Carol Collins. Illustration: Jessica Daigle. L ike many northern gardeners, I had red-hot poker envy for many years but ruled out growing them because of their iffy chances of surviving winter in my region. However, I am very excited about some of the newer Kniphofia introductions we are growing at the Chicago Botanic Garden. Being able to overwinter a South African plant in the Midwest is pretty cool, right? This isn’t our first time experiencing the thrill and agony of cultivating Kniphofia. Thirty years ago we installed a trial of 20 red-hot pokers on a slope with full sun, well-drained soil, and a wooden fence to block the prevailing winds. Every plant survived the winter, grew vigorously, and simply glowed that second summer. I crowed about our success, perhaps a bit too smugly and certainly too soon, because all of the plants died the following winter. Complete failure is soul sucking, so I picked at the edges for years before it felt like the breeding was promising enough to warrant another large trial. Some success a few years ago with Terra Nova’s Popsicle™ series as well as new breeding from just across Lake Michigan at Walters Gardens emboldened me to try again. Growing these plants successfully in northern gardens is not just about their ability to survive cold temperatures. Soil moisture is the great equalizer in any climate; survival and overall longevity are both greatly reduced in wet soil. In 2023 we duplicated the current trial in a new evaluation garden with free-draining, sandy loam that we hope will be just right for making red-hot poker magic. ROBUST HABITS AND REFINED BLOOMS ARE A GREAT FIT FOR ALMOST ANY GARDEN SCHEME Exotic common names like red-hot poker and torch lily befit these natives of the southern hemisphere whose flowers are often in scorching tones of red, orange, and yellow. The pendant flowers are densely clustered in terminal spikes. Occasionally, secondary spikes arise from the main stems, as on ‘Hot and Cold’ and ‘Poker Face’. Flowers open from the bottom upward, and blooms that have opened are often of a lighter hue or a different color than the buds above them. Cultivars such as ‘Glowstick’ and ‘Redhot Popsicle’ have sublimely monochromatic flowers and buds. AT A GLANCE ▾ Kniphofia spp. and cvs. ZONES: 5b–9 CONDITIONS: Full sun; moist, welldrained soil. Wet soil may be tolerated during the growing season, but poor drainage is detrimental in winter. NATIVE RANGE: South Africa CARE AND PROPAGATION: With good soil drainage, red-hot pokers are usually trouble free. Plants do not typically need division, but they may be divided in spring if desired. PESTS AND DISEASES: Alternaria leaf spot (aka black ink-spot disease) was a recurring problem on plants in our trial. CULTURE TIPS: Tying the leaves together in winter helps direct water away from the plant’s crown and may improve the odds of survival. Mulch around the plants—not over them—for added winter protection in Zones 5–6. Removing spent flower stems gives plants a cleaner look and reduces the chances of reseeding. NARROW, TAPERING FOLIAGE THICK RHIZOME FIBROUS, FLESHY ROOTS FLOWER SPIKE Small, individual, tubular blooms open from the bottom of the flower spike to the top.

Bottom photo this page and photo facing page: courtesy of Walters Gardens Inc. 46 FINE GARDENING | AUGUST 2024 The Chicago Botanic Garden has been evaluating 28 red-hot pokers since 2020. HOW LONG: Minimum four years ZONE: 6 CONDITIONS: Full sun; well-drained, alkaline, clay-loam soil CARE: We provided minimal care, allowing the plants to thrive or fail under natural conditions. In addition to observing their ornamental traits, we monitored the plants to see how well they grew and adapted to environmental and soil conditions. We also kept a close eye on any disease or pest problems and assessed plant injuries or losses over winter. ‘Joker’s Wild’ ‘Gold Rush’ P L A N T T R I A L R E S U LT S TRIAL PARAMETERS ▾

FINEGARDENING.COM 47 Flowering usually starts near the summer solstice, with a remontant bloom later in the summer or early autumn. The trumpetlike flowers are typically an inch long, give or take a smidge, and about a quarter inch wide, while the conelike flower heads range from 4 to 7 inches tall. Inflorescences were measured early in the plant’s bloom time, when there were a mix of open flowers—maybe a few spent ones too—and buds. Small flower clusters at the tips of stretched stems later in the season are still satisfying, although I’m not keen on any shaggy dead flowers hanging on below. Red-hot pokers have clump-forming habits and stout floral stems; I have not yet witnessed a floppy stalk. The spiky, linear leaves are vertical or arched, but sometimes bent and untidy. Growth is typically vigorous, and new plants come on strong the first year in the garden. Plants can quickly gain significant girth; the most robust mounds in the trial have reached 4 feet wide. By the third summer seedlings were popping up, and when they bloomed we discovered that some seedlings had replaced original plants that had died out. Longevity in our garden is still an unknown, but seeing how well this group has done thus far makes me hopeful. TOP PERFORMERS BOAST A RANGE OF BEGUILING BLOSSOM COLORS Deep orange ‘Joker’s Wild’ is a one-color beauty that is a bit of a tease. At first glance, the open flowers look light yellow below the ballooning buds, but the soft buttery halo comes instead from protruding stamens. The deep orange color stays vibrant throughout as flowers open and fade. Bold, cone-shaped flower heads top 36-inch stems and are set amid leaves that are mainly upright and slightly arching at the tips. The trial specimens had uniformly bushy habits for the first three years, but plant size and vigor were inconsistent the fourth summer. The pure yellow brightness of ‘Gold Rush’ blazes in the summer garden. The monochromatic simplicity of the flowers is deceiving; a close-up view is needed to see if its buds have opened. The plump inflorescences, measuring about 6 inches long and 2 inches wide, are freely produced on sturdy stems up to 48 inches tall starting in early summer. Distinctly arching leaves give it a broad, fountain-like habit. ‘Gold Rush’, like the other top performers, has survived three winters already. A perk of planting a new trial is snatching some leftovers for my own garden. I had just enough sun for one plant, and after a contentious internal debate I chose ‘Lady Luck’. The bloom color is a fresh and sophisticated composite of green, chartreuse, and creamy white that completely captivated me. Add in a fruitful bounty of 7-inch flower heads on 52-inch-tall stalks and gracefully arching leaves, and ‘Lady Luck’ ticked all the boxes. Back home, I planted it next to pure white ‘Casa Blanca’ lilies (Lilium ‘Casa Blanca’, Zones 4–9) before either plant was in bloom. After some initial uncertainty about the ‘Lady Luck’

Photo: | DESIGN IDEAS | Embrace eye-catching hues and standout forms Perhaps you’ve shied away from planting red-hot pokers because they are so bold, but in the right setting their distinctive architecture and vibrant colors are valuable assets. As long as you have enough sun and enough space, you can create a stunning seasonal focal point that will be the envy of the neighborhood. Ready to add some red-hot style to your garden? Here are a few fun ideas from the display beds at Walters Gardens. PAIR WITH A COMPLEMENTARY HUE The lemon-yellow buds of ‘Flash Point’ contrast strikingly with the violet-blue spikes of nearby ‘Denim ‘n Lace’ Russian sage (Salvia yangii ‘Denim ‘n Lace’, Zones 4–9) MIX AND MATCH The two-tone blooms of ‘Backdraft’ pick up the warm, citrusy glow of ‘Orange Blaze’, creating a casual, playful effect. CREATE A FIERY FOIL ‘Joker’s Wild’ provides a bold counterpoint to moody ‘Mission to Mars’ mangave (Mangave ‘Mission to Mars’, Zones 8–11) set high upon a pedestal. GO FOR A MONOCHROMATIC PALETTE ‘Solar Flare’ and ‘Firefly Sunshine’ yarrow (Achillea ‘Firefly Sunshine’, Zones 3–8) share a soothing, sunny yellow hue. 1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4 P L A N T T R I A L R E S U LT S 48 FINE GARDENING | AUGUST 2024

FINEGARDENING.COM 49 Photos this page, from top to bottom: courtesy of Terra Nova Nurseries Inc.; courtesy of Walters Gardens Inc.; Danielle Sherry combo, I decided that the shapes, color echo, and chartreuse vibes of both flowers looked quite good together. At the start, I wondered whether I would be biased against short cultivars because the soaring rocket-like flowers on tall cultivars are so emblematic. ‘Orange Blaze’ quashed that notion. At just over 2 feet tall, ‘Orange Blaze’ has more in common with the compact Poco™ or Popsicle™ series than with its taller cohorts in the Pyromania® collection. Vivid orange flowers in dense spikes are produced freely above tidy clumps of upright leaves. Flowers pop in early July here, with rebloom continuing into autumn. Bees were gregarious companions, while hummingbirds were more reclusive visitors. Minor leaf spotting in 2021 and 2022 was noticeable but easy to overlook because of the excellent quality of the flowers. The red-orange buds of ‘Sunset’ open a lighter shade of orange, creating a pretty bicolored effect. Chubby inflorescences top stout stalks, which are common in the Poco™ series. The early summer profusion of flowers gives the impression of a bigger plant, even though it is quite compact. Most red-hot pokers were stunning in their first year because they bloomed right up to hard frost in mid-November. That first winter I had flashbacks of our disastrous trial and braced myself for a raft of losses in spring. Happily, ‘Sunset’ came through its first winter unscathed, as did most of the other cultivars. The vivid two-toned flowers of ‘Rocket’s Red Glare’ are attention-grabbing favorites of our visitors and staff. I usually prefer subtler, ombré-like color blends, but its sharp contrast between flamboyant red buds and peachy yellow flowers feels particularly tropical and evocative. The flowers are generously produced, rising rigidly above prominently upright leaves. The ‘Sunset’ ‘Orange Blaze’ ‘Rocket’s Red Glare’

Photo: courtesy of Walters Gardens Inc. 50 FINE GARDENING | AUGUST 2024 narrow verticality of ‘Rocket’s Red Glare’ is more refined than the bushier habits or strongly arching foliage of other cultivars. ‘Red Roulette’ was new to the trial in 2023, and it excelled the first summer. This is an up-and-comer that may be worth a gamble. Deep red-orange buds open to creamy yellow flowers; it bloomed in late July last year. The color combination is more understated than that of ‘Rocket’s Red Glare’. Its inflorescences were on the small side but, like the plants themselves, will likely be larger in coming years. The narrow leaves are mainly | SOURCES | • Sooner Plant Farm, Park Hill, OK; 918-453-0771; soonerplantfarm.com • Bluestone Perennials, Madison, Ohio; 800-852-5243; bluestoneperennials.com • Wilson Bros Gardens, McDonough, GA; 770-573-1778; wilsonbrosgardens.com vertical, keeping a neat appearance all season. Plants grew just over 2 feet tall and wide but are expected to reach 42 inches tall and 32 inches wide. ‘Red Roulette’ is planted in our new trial garden, where it gets a bit of shade at midday. That might be why its flower production was not as strong as that of cultivars growing in full sun. P L A N T T R I A L R E S U LT S ‘Red Roulette’ Contributing editor Richard Hawke is the director of ornamental plant research at the Chicago Botanic Garden in Glencoe, Illinois. To hear Richard dishing the dirt about plant evaluation, scan the QR code or visit FineGardening.com/podcast.