JHStyle Summer 22

Jackson Hole & the Teton Lifestyle

®

Summer • Fall 2022

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KARIN SIEBER / Associate Broker / 307.413.4674 / [email protected]
KURT HARLAND / Majority Owner, Managing Partner / 307.413.6887 / [email protected]
TIM HARLAND / Associate Broker / 307.690.8464 / [email protected]

No matter what brings you here,
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Contact The Team and
let the adventures begin.

307.690.8464 / [email protected] / 138 NORTH CACHE, JACKSON, WY / BHHSJACKSONHOLE.COM

©2021 BHH Affiliates, LLC. An independently owned and operated franchisee of BHH Affiliates, LLC. Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices and the Berkshire Hathaway
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Bob Kuhn (1920-2007), Screening the Big Bull (detail), 1995 Carl Rungius (1869-1959), Challenge (detail), 1905
acrylic on board, 12 x 20 inches, Estimate: $25,000-$35,000 oil on canvas, 18 x 24 inches, Estimate: $70,000-$100,000

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®

WHAT’S INSIDE

34 22 WELCOME
62
Publisher’s Note
44 About the Cover
Editor’s Note
66 JHStyle Team
50 JHStyle Contributors
Visitor’s Guidepost

34 MIGRATION—CALL OF THE MOUNTAINS

Remembering Jenny
Don’t Fence Me In
Nature’s Calendar

46 SUMMER TO-DOS

Music, Art, Food, Rodeo

50 INSPIRE

A Match Made in…Wyoming: Chris McBarnes
A Legacy in Conservation: Bill Rudd
The Call of the Elk: Frank Durbian
NatureScapes

6 2 HIGHSTYLE

Curiosity, Conviction, Conservation: Derek Craighead
Where the Wild Things Are: Aly Courtemanch
A Love Letter to Nature: Kathryn Mapes Turner

56

“For our First Republic team, serving nonprofits is more
than just a job. It’s a personal commitment.”

DANCERS’ WORKSHOP
Babs Case, Artistic Director

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WHAT’S INSIDE

68 68 MOUNTAINSTYLE LIVING
86
Seeking Refuge, Finding Paradise
82
88 The Inside Line on Real Estate & Design:
Jill Sassi & Kate Binger

Expanding Paradise: Tom Hedges

Sharing the Spirit of the West: Mekki Jaidi

82 BASECAMP

Always in Motion: Zahan Billimoria
The Path of the Pronghorn
Critical Connections
The Lakers: Maggie Gibson
Wildlife Warrior: Kristin Combs
Nature at Its Finest

96 DINING

The Jackson Hole Palate
An Elevated Experience:
The Restaurant at White Buffalo Club

104 NIGHTLIFE

Preserving a Piece of History

106 TETON VALLEY

Wydaho
360-Degrees of Beautiful: The Velvet Moose
Unique Treasures — Big & Small:
Mountain Home Treasures
Coming Home: Borbay

102 JHStyleCatalogue™

When you need a break from the endless
outdoor adventures found in Jackson
Hole, come explore and support the area’s
wonderful galleries and boutiques. Jackson and
the Tetons are home to 30 nationally acclaimed
galleries and endless interior shops, jewelry stores,
and boutiques. You can either swing by in-person
or hop online to see their full collection. It doesn’t
matter if you’re searching for that perfect piece of
jewelry, a painting of the Grand Teton, or top-of-
the-line bedding and home decor — Jackson Hole
has you covered.

Galleries & Jewelry
Pearls By Shari
Quent Cordair Fine Art
DanShelley Jewelers
Turner Fine Art
Hines Goldsmiths
Oden Watches & Jewelry
Patricia A Griffin — Gallery Wild
Borbay Studios & Gallery

Boutiques & Home
Terra
JW Bennett
Fighting Bear Antiques
Scandia Home
Farmhouse 208
Grand Teton Floor & Window Coverings
The Velvet Moose

ONLINE CATALOGUE

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EXCLUSIVE—JHSTYLE CATALOGUE®
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PUBLISHER’S NOTE

MOUNTAIN TOWN CULTURE Jackson Hole & the Teton Lifestyle

Embrace it, protect it ®

WIMAGE Mark Gocke Summer • Fall 2022
hen I first moved to the mountains in 1986, my goal was to find a Font is Moderne Rich Black
challenging ski mountain with the best steeps, tree skiing, and
bumps. It wasn’t long before I realized I had stumbled upon a ABOUT THE COVER
culture that went beyond making arcs in the snow: a mountain town.
David Yarrow is one of the bestselling photographers
Out-of-the-box thinking was the norm. Individual economic survival and a ‘60s in the world. Our cover image — titled “Face Off” —
counterculture shaped the ski culture of the ‘70s and ‘80s — and still does today. Every was captured by David in Alaska in 2016, but he often
decade since has introduced a new set of ideals and economic goals. The green movement, works in and around Jackson Hole. You’ll find one of
conscious consumption practices, wildlife protection acts, and environmental and his newer images, which showcases the majesty of the
sustainability initiatives have further defined our culture. Tetons, on page 35.
This decade, the landscape changed in a matter of 18 months. During what some are calling
the “Great Pandemic Migration,” people left cities to follow their dream of living in the David’s evocative and immersive photography of life
mountains, while tourism to mountain towns skyrocketed. on earth has earned him an ever-growing following
Today, the intersection of human and animal migration is at the forefront of our collective amongst art collectors. Since 2019, David’s work
ideation — as we look for solutions that will maintain our mountain culture and preserve the has raised over $8.8 million for philanthropic and
wildlife and landscapes that brought us here. conservation organizations.
I hope the stories ahead encourage you to protect and improve our community and the
surrounding natural landscape for future generations to come. He is represented in Jackson Hole by RARE Gallery,
JHStyle—Our Story IS Your Story. RareGalleryJacksonHole.com
— Jeff Bush

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JHStyleMagazine.com | SUMMER • FALL 2022



®

EXPERIENCE IT ALL. Publisher
STAY A WHILE. Jeffrey C. Bush

With world-class wildlife, magical national parks, Teton Village and Founder / CFO
the vibrant, cultural town of Jackson, you’ll need a little time to explore. Jill McGlashon

And with nearly 25 years in the business, and over 125 properties Creative Director
throughout the valley, our professional sta will help you Kristal Franklin

settle into the perfect basecamp for your mountain adventure. Editorial Director
LIVE LIKE A LOCAL. BOOK A SEASONAL STAY. Evie Carrick

Advertising Sales
Connie Tyler

Social Media
Heather Jarvis

Contributing Writers
Molly Absolon, Kat Bush,
Evie Carrick, Monica Fedrigo,
Emmie Gocke, Heather Jarvis,
Melissa Thomasma, Lexey Wauters

Contributing Photographers
David Bowers, Chris Figenshau, Mark Gocke,
Fredrik Marmsater, Keegan Rice, Lindley Rust,
Julie Shipman, Madison Webb, David Yarrow

J.C. Bush Creative Media, LLC
P.O. Box 684 • Wilson, WY 83014

(307) 699-5190
email: [email protected]
JHStyleMagazine.com

Award-Winning Publisher
Certificates of Excellence
Western Publications Association Maggie Awards
Best Overall Visitor’s Guide
Best New Consumer Publication

Best Table of Contents

Printed by Hudson Printing Company
Copyright© 2022. No part of this publication may be
reproduced without the written consent of the publisher.

Jackson Hole & the Teton Lifestyle
®

SUMMER/FALL 2014

The Art CERTIFICATE OF MERIT

of Jackson Hole JHStyle Magazine

rmrentals.com • (307) 739-9050 Explore, share, and connect with
JHStyleMagazine.com

24
JHStyleMagazine.com | SUMMER • FALL 2022

Coeur d’Alene
Art Auction

Fine Western & American Art

Best in the West – Coeur d’Alene Art The Auction is now accepting quality consignments for
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William Herbert Dunton (1878 – 1936), Crest of the Ridge, Grizzly, oil on board, 8 × 10 inches, Estimate: $ 200,000 – 300,000

EDITOR’S NOTE

“It has been educational, as well as humbling,
to read the stories of people whose ancestors migrated here
centuries ago and to learn about the organizations tasked with

keeping migration routes clear and local wildlife safe.”

MIGRATION

A novice gets an education in migration

TIMAGE Mark Gocke tasked with keeping migration routes clear and local McBarnes and Taylor Phillips, who have teamed up
o be completely honest, when we chose wildlife safe. to create Wildlife Tourism for Tomorrow, an initiative
that makes it easy for businesses that depend on
“Migration—Call of the Mountains” as the In this issue, we share the story of Jenny Leigh, the local wildlife to protect it. We even talked with advo-
Shoshone woman whom Jenny Lake is named for, cates like Derek Craighead of Craighead Beringia
theme for this issue, I was intimidated. and talk to people like Randy’L Teton, a member of South, Kristin Combs of Wyoming Wildlife Advocates,
the Shoshone-Bannock Tribes. and Bill Rudd, who followed a 30-year career with
I didn’t know much about the history of human Wyoming Game and Fish with the founding of the
movement in and out of the valley, or the nuances We also feature community members who are work- Wyoming Migration Initiative.
of local wildlife migration. Luckily, I was able to lean ing directly with some of the area’s most beloved
on my team of long-time writers and photographers fauna. People like Frank Durbian, who oversees the As you can imagine, for me, every story provided a
who are well versed in the area’s Indigenous heri- National Elk Refuge, and Aly Courtemanch, who is crash-course in human history and wildlife migration.
tage and have watched migratory animals come and working on a management plan for the Teton herd of And it also provided clues to the future. I hope you
go with the changing seasons for years. bighorn sheep. We also had the chance to talk with find this issue as interesting and eye opening as I did.
people behind some of the area’s biggest and most
It has been educational, as well as humbling, to read impactful wildlife organizations. Visionaries like Chris — Evie Carrick
the stories of people whose ancestors migrated here
centuries ago and to learn about the organizations

26
JHStyleMagazine.com | SUMMER • FALL 2022



® MEET THE TEAM

JEFF BUSH JILL MCGLASHON
Owner / Publisher Founder / CFO
Jeff co-founded his advertising and Jill’s adventurous and entrepreneurial
publishing company nearly three decades spirit has lead her to navigate over three
ago in Telluride, Colorado, while following decades of building successful businesses
his dream to live, work, and play in a in the mountain resort towns of Telluride,
mountain ski resort town. Skiing and Jackson Hole, Park City, Snowbird, and
mountain biking are his playtime passions Sun Valley. Jill shares her passion for the
along with exploring the desert country of outdoors, skiing, mountain biking, hiking,
the southwest with his wife, Jill. and adventure travel with her husband,
family, and friends whenever possible.

KRISTAL FRANKLIN EVIE CARRICK
Creative Director Editorial Director
Kristal studied graphic design in Arizona
before founding Kristal Graphics in 2004. Evie is a writer and editor who lives for
Kristal has been an integral part of J.C. cheap travel. She’s skied out of a camper
Bush Creative Media for more than 20 van in the Japanese Alps, overcome
years. She’s helped the company publish dengue fever in Indonesia, lived in a tent
numerous award-winning magazines and on a beach in Martinique, and studied
guides. When she isn’t making words and yoga in India — but she keeps coming
images harmonize on a page, Kristal and back to the American West. Evie studied
her husband, Jon, love traveling, golfing, journalism at the University of Denver
camping, and spending time with friends and publishing at New York University.
and family and her pups Sophie and Ruby. She also likes wooing neighborhood cats,
skiing, and trail running.

CONNIE TYLER DAVID BOWERS
Sales Executive Photographer
Originally from Philadelphia, Connie made A 32-year Jackson Hole resident, David
her way to the Tetons via Kauai, Hawaii combines his skills as a professional
to be near family in Victor, Idaho. Connie photographer, mountain guide, and ski
has lived in the area over 10 years now patroller in order to maintain an active
and is an avid yogini, teaching yoga in outdoor lifestyle. In his spare time, he
Teton Valley. She enjoys spending time enjoys working with local nonprofits
with her family, gardening, traveling, and through education and photography, and
volunteering for local nonprofits including exploring lesser-known mountain regions.
the Grand Teton Music Festival and the
Valley of the Tetons Library.

HEATHER JARVIS MARK GOCKE
Social Media Photographer
Mark has called Wyoming home for the
Heather fell in love with mountain town past 30 years, with the last 25 of those
living after moving to Summit County, being in Jackson. He spends most of
Colorado, in 2010. With a journalism his time photographing most anything
background, she pioneered the digital outdoors, whether it be at his day
strategy for the Summit Daily News as a job with the Wyoming Game and Fish
digital engagement editor before pursuing Department or out on misadventures
a career in freelance. With her husband with friends and family.
and young son, she now bounces between
Colorado, and Utila, Honduras, an island
they consider their second home.

28
JHStyleMagazine.com | SUMMER • FALL 2022

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JHSTYLE CONTRIBUTORS

MEET THE CONTRIBUTORS

MOLLY ABSOLON KAT BUSH MONICA FEDRIGO CHRIS FIGENSHAU EMMIE GOCKE
Writer Writer Writer Photographer Writer
Molly has been supporting Kat was raised in the Monica spends her time Chris is most well known Emmie grew up in Jackson,
her outdoor habit by box canyon of Telluride, writing, skiing, and for his high-angle and quickly encountered
freelance writing since Colorado and the sacred traveling the world for mountain photography. A the powerful draw of the
2010. Like most people Tetons. She has always corporate events. She’s former hotshot firefighter mountains. She’s worked as
who make their home in had a deep appreciation most at home in the in Alaska and a longtime an EMT, ski coach, medical
the Tetons, Molly likes to for staggering mountain mountains and nature, Exum Mountain Guide assistant, and river guide
bike, hike, ski, climb, boat, ranges, the adventures and enjoys ski coaching in the Tetons, Chris has and enjoys writing about
and look at flowers, birds, that happen in them, at JHMR every winter. used a rare mix of grit and the role humans play within
and wildlife. She loves and the communities Monica shares stories of skill to capture images the local ecology. Her
working as a journalist surrounding them. Kat outdoor adventures on of mountain athletes like favorite ways to experience
because it allows her runs a painting business her award-winning blog, Jimmy Chin and Jeremy Jackson’s remarkable
to learn more about in Telluride and in her Mountain Monica. Jones in locations that ecosystem are through
the people, places, and free time, works on her include Greenland, the trail running, backcountry
businesses that make the off-grid homestead with Andes, Alaska, and the skiing, elk hunting, and
Tetons special. her partner, plays with Himalayas. floating the Snake with
her pups, rides her bike, friends and family.
and skis.

KEEGAN RICE MELISSA THOMASMA LEXEY WAUTERS
Photographer Writer / Copy Editor Writer
Keegan is a freelance A Jackson Hole native, Like many others, when
photographer with a Melissa is a freelance Lexey moved to Jackson
passion for creating writer with a focus on the right out of college, she
images of snowboarding, West. She holds degrees had no intention of being
surfing, and skating. He from the University of here 35 years later. And
strives to take photos that Chicago and University of yet — fast forward to one
are timeless and unique — Montana. When she’s not (happy) marriage, four
and worth a second take. scribbling stories onto dogs, four career shifts,
He loves reggae. blank pages, she enjoys and more river trips,
fly-fishing, camping, and powder days, and trail
cooking with her husband runs than you can count
and children, Hazel and — here we are. 
Arlen.

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JHStyleMagazine.com | SUMMER • FALL 2022

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VISITOR'S GUIDEPOST

WELCOME FACTS & STATS

Your guide to Jackson Hole & the Tetons GENERAL INFORMATION
• Time zone: MST (UTC-6)
HIMAGE Mark Gocke • Teton County seat: Jackson
iking and biking abound in Jackson Hole, but we’d argue • Jackson’s 2019 population: 10,559
what makes the destination stand out is the wildlife that call • Main industry: tourism
the valley home. From moose and bears to pronghorn and • Number of feature films shot in Jackson Hole: 15+
bison, Jackson Hole is the place to be for once-in-a-lifetime wildlife
experiences. And, of course, its location on the edge of Grand Teton GEOGRAPHY
National Park, near Yellowstone National Park, doesn’t hurt either. • Elevation in the town of Jackson: 6,237 feet
• Elevation in Jackson Hole Valley: 6,069-6,779 feet
32 • Elevation of Grand Teton: 13,775 feet
JHStyleMagazine.com | SUMMER • FALL 2022 • Percentage of publicly owned land in Teton County: 97
• Mammal species in Jackson Hole/Yellowstone: 60+
• Bird species in Jackson Hole/Yellowstone: 100+
• Active thermal features in Yellowstone: 10,000+

SKI RESORT FACTS
• Year Snow King Mountain Resort opened: 1939
• Year Jackson Hole Mountain Resort opened: 1965
• Year Grand Targhee Resort opened: 1969

NATIONAL PARK FACTS
• Yellowstone National Park established: 1872
• Yellowstone National Park size: 3,472 square miles
• Grand Teton National Park established: 1929
• Grand Teton National Park size: 485 square miles

WEATHER
• Summer Average High: 78˙F / Average Low: 40˙F
• Spring/Fall: Average High: 68˙F / Average Low: 30˙F
• Winter: Average 0-30˙F
• Record High: 97˙F
• Record Low: -46˙F

USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS
• Emergency: 911
• Teton County Public Health Update Hotline: (307) 732-8628
• St. John’s Health Evaluation Hotline: (307) 739-4898
• St. John’s Health Hospital: (307) 733-3636
• Jackson Police: (307) 733-1430
• Teton County Sheriff: (307) 733-4052
• Road Conditions: (888) WYO-ROAD
• Jackson Hole Airport (JAC): (307) 733-7682
• START Bus: (307) 733-4521
• Central Reservations: (888) 838-6606
• Snow King Resort: (307) 733-5200
• Grand Targhee Resort: (307) 353-2300
• Jackson Hole Mountain Resort: (307) 733-2292
• Yellowstone National Park: (307) 344-7381
• Grand Teton National Park: (307) 739-3300
• Bridger-Teton National Forest: (307) 739-5500
• Jackson Hole Chamber of Commerce: (307) 733-3316
• Grand Teton Association: (307) 739-3606

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MIGRATION
A journey as old as time

MWORDS Evie Carrick | IMAGE David Yarrow
igration is defined as movement — whether by
choice or need — from one place to another. For
migratory animals, it’s a silent, unmistakable call
that coincides with the shifting of the seasons, letting
them know it is time to move on. Early humans, reliant on
migratory animals for food, shelter, and clothing, followed
suit. The first humans to arrive in Jackson Hole were
Indigenous peoples — the Crow, Gros Ventre, Blackfeet, Nez
Perce, Sheep Eaters, Bannock, and Shoshone tribes. They
came to hunt in the milder summer months, before packing
up and migrating to warmer weather.

These days, for most humans, migration is less of a need and more of a
choice. Instead of following food sources, we follow jobs and loved ones.
Some of us are drawn to this valley like magnets — pulled by the beauty
of the Tetons and the rugged adventure found among them. And still oth-
ers migrate here to fulfill a need, to find a new home, for change.

No matter your reason for being here, you are now part of the valley’s
migration story, a heritage that goes back to the beginning of time.

About this image: Grand Teton National Park is an imperial amphitheater deserving
not only our attention but also our respect. My strategy with this 2021 image,
titled “A River Runs Through It,” was to play with what we had and be authentic
in the additives. We threw around many ideas and then threw most out. The
most authentic suggestion was the idea of working with a Native American in a
19th-century canoe on Snake River. The concept was sound, but the execution was
hampered by the fact that the most scenic stretches of the river are 3 miles further
east from the mountains than I would like. On a standard lens, the peaks lose some
of their sense of enormity, but there is one stretch of water where the river runs
parallel to and closer to the mountain base.

The temperature that January day was low and I knew I was going to get wet and
cold as the camera needed to be on the river’s surface. The picture was all that
mattered in those 10 minutes, not my comfort. Haatepah in the canoe was also
game and did an extraordinary job.

—David Yarrow

35

JHStyleMagazine.com | SUMMER • FALL 2022

REMEMBERING JENNY

Early Indigenous peoples thrived in the Tetons, inseparable
from the rhythm of the landscape

Dean Fikar© istock.com MIGRATION—CALL OF THE MOUNTAINS

OWORDS Melissa Thomasma | IMAGES Courtesy Wikimedia Commons
ffering a perfect reflection of the jagged peaks
above, the tranquil, shimmering Jenny Lake is one of
Grand Teton National Park’s true gems. As one of the
park’s most popular destinations, it’s an iconic sight that
welcomes millions of visitors every year. This breathtaking
mountain lake, tucked into the folds of the glacially carved
moraine at the foot of the Tetons, was named for a young
woman: Jenny Leigh.

Richard Leigh, Jenny, and family

This 16-year-old Shoshone woman, whose Indigenous name has been lost
to history, married a 31-year-old English fur trapper named Richard “Beaver
Dick” Leigh. Based on Richard’s journals, it seems that their love for each
other was authentic. The couple arrived in the Tetons in 1863 and had six
children before an unthinkable tragedy struck: between Christmas Eve and
December 28, 1876, Jenny and all six children died of smallpox.
The lake bears her name, a remembrance of love, loss, and beauty in an
inimitable landscape.
Decades before Jenny and her young family perished, the shores of
this crystalline alpine lake were home to her ancestors. Descendants of
these first peoples — the Shoshone and Bannock bands — still reside in
the region and continue to hold the landscape in the highest regard.
“My ancestors chose the Grand Teton area, specifically the Jenny Lake
area, seasonally. We were in proximity to all we needed. The medicines,
the big game — it was all right there,” says Randy’L Teton, the public
affairs officer for the Shoshone-Bannock Tribes. “Of course, it wasn’t just
one place — we moved from area to area within it.”

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MIGRATION—CALL OF THE MOUNTAINS Shoshone War Chief’s tepee, from a photograph taken in
1861. The tepee is made of buffalo skins, and is possible
This movement, rooted deeply in the cyclical change the identical one in which the big council was held.
of seasons and corresponding plant growth and ani-
mal migration, provided Indigenous people with a Shoshone Indians Dancing.
bounty of resources. “This valley was used season-
ally,” explains Laine Thom, a member of the Shoshone Washakie (with hat in hand) and part of his Shoshone
tribe, who dedicated 42 years to working as a ranger tribe at South Pass, Wyoming in 1861.
in Grand Teton National Park. “Nobody was in the val-
ley during wintertime, but otherwise, there was good
hunting all year round here. They had to eat to live, and
if there wasn’t food, they’d starve.”

Randy’L’s Bannock ancestors followed a similar
rhythm. “We lived outside, in the landscape. We were
constantly hiking. Constantly fishing and hunting. We
were from the Mountain Area. That’s where we thrived.
We hunted, we gathered, and that was important to
our everyday lifestyle.”

Trout and whitefish from the rivers and lakes, plenty
of big game — bison, elk, deer, moose, antelope —
and smaller animals, were supplemented with camas,
wild onion, wild carrot, berries, and more. The land-
scape offered much more than a place to stay, it pro-
vided life itself.

When the cold set in and the snow began to fall, the
ice growing thicker on the frigid water, many animals
traveled south. Tribes like the Shoshone and Bannock
followed. And when spring returned, they did, too.

This rhythmic, deliberate existence was abruptly shat-
tered when the U.S. government began the brutal pro-
cess of forcing Indigenous people onto reservations.
Those who called these lands home were forced to
choose between the Wind River Reservation to the
northeast or the Fort Hall Reservation to the south-
west. Randy’L’s ancestors chose Fort Hall in Idaho —
with its proximity to the railroad, it seemed to offer
more opportunity.

Each family was given 150 acres on which they were
expected to homestead, Randy’L explains. “A lot of our
people didn’t understand this concept. We always felt
like the landscape was everybody’s — not just ‘mine,
mine, mine.’ It was a collective understanding that it
was our landscape, our Mother Earth.”

Her grandparents survived the imposed schooling
and held tight to Bannock, their native language. “They
were forced to go to a white school, their hair was
cut. They were told to speak English as citizens of the
United States. Become good standard citizens,” Randy’L
explains. “Despite them going through that school, they
retained their language. When I was younger, they were
always speaking in our traditional tongue.”

Now, she says, the number of people who are fluent
in Bannock is dwindling. In collaboration with other
tribal members, Randy’L works tirelessly to protect
and share the rich traditions and history of her com-
munity. What hasn’t faded, however, is the profound
sense of connection and love for the landscape that
Shoshone-Bannock peoples carry. Laine agrees that
the relationship between Indigenous people and the
landscape — historically and in the present day — is

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“This inseverable bond, this NAMES NOT LOST
wellspring of inspiration and hope,
the intertwining heartbeats of life Many landmarks around Jackson Hole bear the names of explorers,
itself is still alive.” settlers, and other pioneers. Plenty of places pay homage to trap-
pers Davey Jackson and John Colter, while the Teton Range com-
not one of domination or ownership, but rather one that has memorates painter Thomas Moran, explorer William Owen, and a gaggle of
embraced both the practical and the spiritual. “Everywhere Frenchmen who hadn’t seen women in quite some time. There are, how-
is spiritual,” he says. “There is no separation between nature ever, a few names around the valley that harken back to the Indigenous
and spirituality.” people who first called this place home.

This inseverable bond, this wellspring of inspiration and hope, Teewinot Mountain
the intertwining heartbeats of life itself is still alive. Indigenous
peoples, their knowledge, and their wisdom must not be ban- The Shoshone band referred to the Tetons as “Teewinot,” a word that trans-
ished to history books and sensationalized campfire stories. lates to “many pinnacles.” One of the peaks is still known as Teewinot, and
it’s a moniker you’ll see around the area.
Stories like those of Jenny Leigh, Randy’L Teton, and Laine
Thom call us to deepen our understanding of the first people Togwotee Pass
to call this place home. As Randy’L summarizes: “We’re the
original inhabitants of this landscape. We were here before it Togwotee Pass is named for Chief Togwotee, the Tukudika (Sheep Eater)
had borders.” guide for President Chester A. Arthur’s tour of Yellowstone in 1883.

When you make your pilgrimage to Grand Teton National Park, Seeds-kee-dee-agie (Green River)
stand on the shore of Jenny Lake, and gaze across the resplen-
dent surface that reflects the towering pinnacles above, let it What we now call the Green River, south of Jackson Hole, was known to
resonate as more than an “Insta-worthy” view. Let it welcome Indigenous tribes as Seeds-kee-dee-agie, which translates to “prairie hen
you into an understanding that this place, in all its power and river” — a reference to the sage grouse that are abundant in the region.
abundance, has always been sacred. And always will be. Offer a
moment of silence in honor of Jenny’s memory. Snake River

As we move throughout this landscape — whether as resi- The Snake River comes not from a Shoshone word, but rather a misin-
dents or visitors — remember that there were many footprints terpretation of one. The hand signal for Shoshone (which were known as
on this swath of earth before ours. n the “people of the grass lodge”) appeared to early trappers to look less like
swaying grass, and more like, well… a snake. Hopefully that gives you some
peace of mind should you get the chance to go for a dip!

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DON’T FENCE ME IN
Humans aren’t the only ones aching for land

WWORDS Melissa Thomasma | IMAGES Mark Gocke and Julie Shipman
hat’s more iconic to this area than a herd of bison serenely grazing in a grassy mountain meadow? Or
a strand of elk, silhouetted in the waning light, silently traversing a ridgeline? We know on a primal,
gut level that this is where these animals belong. That’s partially why it stings to see a deer carcass
sloughed on the side of the road, reduced to a buffet for magpies and ravens. Driven by intuition — an intimate
understanding of the landscape that transcends human understanding — animals like deer, elk, and pronghorn
migrate from one place to another. It’s a rhythm that is essential to their existence — and it’s becoming more
difficult and dangerous than ever.

MIGRATION—CALL OF THE MOUNTAINS

Since 1990, the population of Teton County has more than doubled — the
latest data puts the local Homo sapien population just shy of 25,000.
And that’s not counting the 3.9 million people who visited Grand Teton
National Park last year alone. In other words, humans are migrating to
Jackson Hole (permanently or temporarily) in record-shattering num-
bers. This influx has a profound impact on the ways that the animals
move within and through the landscape.
What was once millions of miles of untamed forest, rivers, sage flats, and
hard-scrabble steppes has now been fragmented in ways that interrupt
the paths of native wildlife. In addition to the development of new neigh-
borhoods that infringe on once-wild habitats, migration thoroughfares
have been severed by fences and roads. The ever-increasing number
of interruptions to wildlife movement means that not only do more ani-
mals die, but those that manage to navigate the barriers must expend
precious energy moving through these hazards quickly or find lengthy
detours around them.
Wyoming is home to eight species of migratory ungulates: mule and
white-tailed deer, bighorn sheep, moose, bison, pronghorn antelope, elk,
and mountain goats. “We as humans like to build roads along canyons,
creeks, and rivers. But that’s also where all the wildlife is,” explains Renee
Seidler, executive director of the Jackson Hole Wildlife Foundation. “Ani-
mals spend most of their time in riparian areas to access the resources
that they need. As drivers, we need to be exceptionally aware around
those spaces.”
Lieutenant Matthew Brackin, a 20-year veteran of the Wyoming Highway
Patrol, says that unfortunately, vehicle-animal collisions are frequent.
“The biggest thing is that it’s easy to get distracted — cell phones, looking
at the scenery. Maintain focus on what’s in front of you. Things can come
up pretty quick,” he says. He also encourages drivers to pay extra atten-
tion during dawn and dusk when the visibility diminishes and animals are
moving around.

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“Humans are migrating to Jackson Hole PERMEABLE
(permanently or temporarily) in record-shattering numbers. BARRIERS
This influx has a profound impact on the ways that the animals
Many old-fashioned fences — think mul-
move within and through the landscape.” tiple strands of rusty barbed wire or
metal grating — are particularly hazard-
Also key? Obey the speed limit. Slower speeds pro- incidents can quickly prove fatal. Pronghorn, the ous for wildlife. Animals that try to leap over
vide extra reaction time if an animal crosses unex- fastest mammal in North America, aren’t fans of these fences can get their legs, hooves, or
pectedly. Renee explains that many ungulates are jumping fences at all — they prefer to squeeze antlers entangled, or be caught just enough to
herd animals or have their young at their side, so underneath. That means that the thousands of stumble when they land, causing a potentially
“If you see one animal, expect more.” miles of fencing that traverse the state are virtu- fatal injury. Smaller animals, like yearlings and
ally impassable for them. babies, can get fully tangled if they try to wrig-
She adds that collisions aren’t the only challenge gle through because they’re too small to jump
wildlife face when it comes to roads. “Traffic is the The good news is that there’s lots we can do to over. Pronghorn won’t even try to go over a
issue, but not only because of collisions. If you get reverse the damage we’ve done. In addition to fence, and they’ll often get snagged in the wire
enough vehicles moving down a road, the vehicles driving as safely as possible, we can commit to as they attempt to squeeze under.
themselves become the barrier for wildlife.” A con- removing what fencing is no longer needed and
stant flow of traffic means that safe opportunities replace old fencing with more wildlife-friendly The bottom line? Fences are a real challenge
to cross are extremely limited. solutions. On a community and state level, we for migrating animals. The Jackson Hole Wild-
can invest in wildlife crossings on particularly life Foundation shared some tips for making
Like roads, fences make seamless migration dif- problematic stretches of road. We can make sure sure your property is migration friendly:
ficult. If animals attempt to leap over or shimmy that those bison, elk, and all their ungulate cous-
through a fence, they face a high risk of entan- ins can get where they need to go safely — and • R emove any fencing that’s no longer needed.
glement in the wire, or even broken bones from a we can, too. n Want help? They’ll bring a team of volunteers
snagged hoof or uneven landing. Either of these to remove it. (They’ve already taken down
over 230 miles of fencing in the area.)
42
• M ake sure the top of your fencing is a
JHStyleMagazine.com | SUMMER • FALL 2022 smooth wire or a solid rail — they’re less likely
to snag a hoof!

• Keep your fence 42-inches tall (or less) so
wildlife can jump over safely.

• T he bottom of the fence should have a
smooth wire, too. Ensure that it’s 18-inches
off the ground for animals that prefer to slide
under.

• If you have gates, leave them open during
migration season. Save the animals some
precious energy!

MAY 14 - AUGUST 23, 2022 Thomas Moran, Hot Springs of
Gardiner's River, Yellowstone Park—
detail, 1871. On loan from the Yellowstone

Heritage and Research Center.

WILDLIFEART.ORG

Photo by Savannah Rose©

BE A PART
OF THE
SOLUTION

Jackson Hole Bear Solutions reduces human-bear conflict by facilitating
the distribution and use of bear-resistant trash cans and other resources.

We aspire to empower all residents to adhere to local regulations as well
as take responsibility for their part in living alongside bears.

Coexist so bears can live

• Use bear-resistant trash cans and be sure they latch
• Remove overflow trash—leave no trace
• Store grain inside a hard-sided structure
• No bird feeders from March through December
• Electrify fences around compost piles, chicken coops, and beehives

Do not give a bear a reason to stop on your property and they won’t.

Donate, volunteer or sign up for a bear-resistant trash can now at JHBearSolutions.org

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NATURE’S CALENDAR Jay Petersen© istock.com
A changing of the seasons through the eyes of
Jackson Hole’s migrators

IWORDS Emmie Gocke | IMAGE David Bowers
t’s one of the first warm days of March. The sun is clinging to its post longer with each sunrise and dissipating the
winter chill like fog on a misty morning. The warm Chinook breeze, the excited chattering of birds, the scents of
exposed mulch and rotting grass, all raise together in a chorus that says: it’s time to awaken, stretch, and move.
I lace up my dusty running shoes and hit the gravel-sprayed bike path behind my house.

At first, I think it’s a trick of the light — a streak of blue too brilliant and quick
to be true — but then I see it again: a mountain bluebird diving playfully in
the golden sunlight. They are the first of the great migrators to hear the uni-
versal call for movement and make their way back to Jackson Hole. Carved
into the dark mud bordering the path are the hoof prints of elk, pointed for
the hills. They have heard the call too, and slowly begin to trickle from the
flat lowlands to their calving grounds in the greening meadows.
The great wildlife migrators of Jackson Hole are once again on the move.
As spring marches toward summer, the birds in the area begin to multi-
ply. Sandhill cranes arrive in early April, their throaty calls reverberating
across lowland marshes. Most continue north to Yellowstone and beyond,
but some settle down in Jackson Hole, returning to their nesting grounds
with the same mates year after year. Great blue herons are also return-
ing to their rookeries, enormous nests bunched together in cottonwood
groves. And the haunting call of the common loon may be heard drifting
across recently defrosted lakes.
Meanwhile, the elk continue their trek north across Antelope Flats to the
high country of the Gros Ventre or along the Snake River corridor to Grand
Teton and Yellowstone National Parks. Bison also undertake migrations from
their winter ranges to the calving meadows of Grand Teton National Park.
With the shift from April to May, pronghorn begin to arrive in Grand Teton
National Park after completing the 150-mile trek from the sagebrush lands
near Big Piney. Their white-and-orange pelts can be seen threading across
the brilliant red soil and emerging green plant life of the Gros Ventre.
Mule deer are also great long-distance migrators. They pour into the
Jackson Hole high country from the south, north, and east, following the
receding snow line. In their migration, mule deer cover huge swaths of

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MIGRATION—CALL OF THE MOUNTAINS

“These species have followed the well-worn paths in and out of Jackson Hole for centuries.
They hear and heed the universal call for movement.”

Wyoming, traveling from the Red Desert to the August brings the arrival of one of the most ungulates rub the velvet from their fully-grown
Hoback Basin and from the plains south of Kem- important migratory insect species to the eco- antlers as bugles begin to split the air. Big-game
merer to the northern Wyoming Range. In the system. Army cutworm moths travel hundreds males and females gather for the final flourish
spring of 2016, University of Wyoming research- of miles from the great plains and settle by the of summer: the rut. When the mating draws to a
ers were astounded by the 242-mile trek of a sin- thousands in the crevices of talus slopes above close, they flow back along the migration corri-
gle doe mule deer across western Wyoming. the Jackson Hole valley. Grizzly bears travel great dors toward their winter range.
distances to gorge themselves on the protein-rich
The large predators of Jackson Hole are hot on the insects as they begin packing on fat for winter. These species have followed the well-worn paths
heels of the migrating ungulates, looking for food to in and out of Jackson Hole for centuries. They
feed their family. The year’s wolf pups are old enough After a season of plenty, the days grow shorter hear and heed the universal call for movement. As
to leave the den and move with the pack in pursuit of and early-morning frost begins to form on the animals begin to populate the lowlands, where
migrating elk and deer. Grizzlies and mountain lions high-elevation plants. The call to move is sound- we make our homes, we know it’s time to slow
may push upward to higher ground pursuing the ing again, and the great migrants are stirring. The down and settle in for winter. n
herds and evading the coming summer heat.
THE PARTICULARS OF MIGRATION
Summer has truly arrived in the valley when the
first western tanagers appear in early June. These • M igration corridors are incredibly multidimensional, often spanning vastly different localities,
migratory songbirds add bright splashes of color ecosystems, and elevations. Most of Jackson Hole’s large ungulates — elk, bison, moose, bighorn
to the landscape with their brilliant yellow plumage sheep, mule deer, and white-tailed deer — move almost 4,000 feet in elevation, finding haven from
and the males’ red heads. When the Snake Riv- the winter snow in the 6,200-foot valley and summering between 8,000 and 10,000 feet.
er’s flow peaks in mid-June, cutthroat trout will be
making their annual migration to spawn in the small • The local pronghorn winter and summer at nearly identical elevations — the milder sagebrush flat-
spring creeks feeding the Snake’s tributaries. They’ll lands in winter and the sweeping meadows of Grand Teton National Park in the summer.
remain in the clear “small water” until runoff dips
back down. • There are pockets within populations that don’t migrate, such as the Teton Range bighorn sheep
herd, which remains above 8,000 feet year-round, and some moose that spend the entire year in
Meanwhile, the big-game migrators are settled the valley.
into their high-country summer ranges, where
food is plentiful and vast forests offer an escape • T he dusky grouse employs a different strategy altogether, migrating to higher elevations in the
from heat, insects, and pursuing predators. Elk, winter to burrow beneath the snow to hide from predators.
moose, deer, and bighorn sheep mothers have
found sweeping meadows to nurture their new-
born calves, fawns, and lambs.

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SUMMER TO-DOS

MUSIC, ART, FOOD, RODEO

9 events happening in the Tetons this summer

WORDS Evie Carrick

1Art Fair Jackson Hole Courtesy New Thought Media© 2Plein Air Fest
Center for the Arts National Museum of Wildlife Art
June 17-19, August 5-7 June 18
For the 57th year, the Art Fair Jackson Hole will bring a wide range of fine art What’s more picturesque than watching Jackson Hole’s most talented art-
and crafts — including pottery, jewelry, furniture, photography, and unique ists create new masterpieces beneath the towering Teton Range? The Plein
Teton-made gifts — to the lawn of the Center for the Arts. During the fair in Air Fest is an event for anyone who appreciates art, or is just curious about
June and August, this is the place to go for unique pieces of art and clever watching the magic unfold on the canvas. And it all goes down en plein air
crafts, many of which are made by local artists. All proceeds benefit the Art (outside). Bidding and a silent auction follow, with proceeds benefiting the
Association’s educational and outreach programs. National Museum of Wildlife Art.

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Krzysztof Wiktor© adobestock.com

Carrie Patterson©
3Jackson Hole Food &
Wine Summer Festival 132 North Cache • In the Log Cabin • Jackson Hole, Wyoming
Various locations 307.733.5933 • jcjewelers.com
June 23-25
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Boasting an experience that is both unique and JHStyleMagazine.com | SUMMER • FALL 2022
intimate, the Jackson Hole Food & Wine Summer
Festival celebrates all things culinary with a week-
end of food and drink at various locations around
Jackson Hole. Live music, a tasting event, and a
lineup of featured chefs round out the weekend.

SUMMER TO-DOS

4Music on Main 5PAWS Pet Gala 6Grand Teton Music Festival Courtesy GTMF©
Victor City Park Center for the Arts Various locations
Thursdays, June 23-August 11 July 1 July 3-August 27
For a boot-stomping good time that remains Pull your tux out of storage and fluff up your pooch For the 61st year, the sounds of the Grand Teton
completely free, head over the pass to Victor. for this annual fundraiser, which includes a red car- Music Festival will reverberate around the Tetons.
For the past 16 years, locals and visitors have pet entrance, a plated diner, and an auction, followed The eight-week festival of performances kicks off
gathered for the town’s Thursday summer con- by dancing. All proceeds benefit PAWS of Jackson on July 3 with a free evening of music for the whole
cert series, a family-friendly show that rivals the Hole, a nonprofit that provides essential pet services family. An exceptional series of chamber music, jazz,
offerings in Jackson Hole. to local pets and their people. and orchestra performances follow.

7Music in the Mountains Courtesy Absaroka Ranch© 8Teton County Fair 9Jackson Hole Rodeo Timothy S. Allen© shutterstock.com
Absaroka Ranch Teton County Fairgrounds YETI Finals
July 15 July 23-31 Jackson Hole Rodeo Grounds
August 31, September 3
An hour-and-a-half drive east of Jackson is the For a hearty dose of Jackson’s Western heritage, After a summer of rodeo, there’s nothing like
town of Dubois, home to Absaroka Ranch. The drop by the annual Teton County Fair, which is catching the season’s culminating event: the YETI
ranch typically boasts a level of quiet and solitude proudly celebrating its 66th year. The week of Finals. Watch cowboys and cowgirls do their thing
that draws visitors from across the country — but events includes everything from live music and while enjoying a hot dog and a beer and catching
on July 15, that all changes. For the second time, rodeo to a carnival. some sun.
the ranch will host Music in the Mountains, a one-
day event that will showcase country singer John
King and opener Martin and Kelly.

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CELEBRATING ART IN THE TETONS

38TH ANNUAL
SEPTEMBER 7 – 18, 2022

307.733.3316 + jacksonholechamber.com

INSPIRE

AINM…AWTCYHOMMIANDGE
Business and conservation find common ground
through Wildlife Tourism for Tomorrow

EWORDS Lexey Wauters | IMAGES David Bowers and Mark Gocke
ntrepreneurism and conservation don’t often share an office. However, if The WYldlife Fund (the Fund)
and its initiative, Wildlife Tourism for Tomorrow (WTFT), are any example, they should. Thanks to the
wildlife-supporting duo of Chris McBarnes and Taylor Phillips, the marriage of business savvy and
conservation has proven wildly successful.

Chris, who is president at the Fund, joined the organization in Chris has overseen the Fund’s flagship initiative, WTFT, alongside
2020, one year after it was launched by the Wyoming Game and Taylor Phillips, a local business owner with a definitive interest in a
Fish Department. The goal? To provide a conduit for private thriving wildlife presence (he owns Jackson Hole EcoTour Adven-
donations and businesses who want to support local wildlife. tures, a wildlife touring company). For Taylor, it’s easy to see the
Though the Wyoming Game and Fish Department’s conserva- responsibility the tourism industry has in sustaining a healthy wildlife
tion efforts were traditionally funded by anglers, hunters, and population. And with 43 percent of Wyoming visitors identifying wild-
outfitters, they recognized that the tourism industry relied life viewing as one of the area’s top draws, according to the Wyoming
heavily on the presence of wildlife but had no way to show its Office of Tourism’s 2018 visitor profile, Taylor knew he wasn’t alone.
financial support.
Though Taylor had been donating to conservation organizations
The job was the perfect fit for Chris, who grew up camping, fish- for years, he suspected that there had to be a way for his dollars
ing, and hunting with his grandfather and father. to go further and do more Historically, wildlife conservation efforts
have been funded by hunters and anglers, but Taylor wanted to
“It isn’t so much about catching a fish or harvesting an animal any- evolve that model to include businesses like his, businesses that
more, it is about the process — being out there, being one with have a stake in healthy wildlife.
nature,” says Chris. He recalls being out with his dad in a blind
before sunrise, watching a bobcat walk by as the forest awoke. It To date, Chris and Taylor have put together a roster of over 50
is a fond memory, and one he holds close as he considers his own Wyoming businesses — including outfitters, tour companies,
young son, Lincoln. hotels, eateries, and realtors — that are passionate about support-
ing the efforts of the Fund and WTFT.
Chris, a native of Indiana with a lot of ambition, was elected
mayor of his hometown of Frankfort at age 23. Limited by a small The private-public partnership model that WTFT employs has dis-
budget, he learned early-on the power of using private-public tinct advantages for both the Fund and business owners. Direct
partnerships to fund and accomplish projects. When the oppor- donations — like those to the Fund through WTFT — can be fun-
tunity to work for the Fund and move to Wyoming, “the mecca neled toward certain projects, allowing the business owner to
of wildlife,” came along, Chris saw it as the perfect way to use specify what project they want their donation to go toward. Funds
his knack for creating productive partnerships while feeding his can also be used to match grants that public agencies award. And
passion for the outdoors. He and his wife “packed up the wagon” finally, the donations are tax exempt and undiluted: 100 percent of
and headed west. the donation goes to on-the-ground efforts.

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