CHAPTER 5 MISE EN PLACE
MISE EN PLACE A simple but extremely important concept: A chef should have everything he or she needs to prepare and serve in an organized and efficient manner at the beginning of the process or meal period. 39
Assemble your tools. Assemble your ingredients. Wash, trim, cut, prepare, and measure your raw materials Prepare your equipment (Preheat oven, line baking sheets, etc.) 5.1 - Planning and Organizing Production Even on the simplest level, prepreparation is necessary. If you prepare only one short recipe, you must first: 40
There is far too much work to do in a kitchen to leave until the last minute, so some work must be done ahead. Most foods are at their best quality immediately after preparation, and they deteriorate as they are held. Break each menu item down into stages of production. Determine which stages may be done in advance. Determine which way to hold each item after pre-preparation. Determine how long it takes to prepare each stage of the recipe. Examine recipes to see if they might be revised for better efficiency and quality as served. The Problem Every food-service operation faces a basic conflict between two unavoidable facts: The Solution 41
All customers eat at one time. Often called quantity cooking because large batches are prepared in advance. Examples: school cafeterias, banquets, employee dining rooms. Customers eat at different times. Often called à la carte cooking because customers usually select items from a written menu (carte in French). Examples: restaurants, short-order counters. 5.2 - Adapting Preparation to Style of Service Mise en Place depends in large part on the style of meal service. Set Meal Service Extended Meal Service 42
Some ingredients that are used frequently should be stored throughout the kitchen and accessible to everyone, when needed. Consider these tasks as part of Mise en Place: Clarifying butter Toasting nuts and spices Making breadcrumbs Bouquet garni and sachet bag Marinades Rubs and Pastes Blanching foods 5.3 - Preparing Ingredients 43
A stone is the traditional tool for sharpening a chef’s knife. The best electric sharpeners do an excellent job of sharpening chef’s knives, but many models wear away too much of your expensive knife without making a good edge. Follow these guidelines: Hold the blade at a constant 20-degree angle to the stone, as shown in picture. 5.4 - Using the Knife The Sharpening Stone 1. 2. Make light, even strokes, the same number on each side of the blade. 3. Sharpen in one direction only to get a regular, uniform edge. 4. Do not over sharpen. 5. Finish with a few strokes on the steel (see next page), and then wipe the blade clean. The Sharpening Stone 44
As mentioned previously, today’s professional knives are made of an especially hard material that is more difficult to sharpen by traditional methods. Manual and power models of these sharpeners are available. This picture shows a manual sharpener in use. Other Knife Sharpeners Handheld Sharpener 45
This tool is used not to sharpen the edge but to true the edge (to perfect it, or to smooth out irregularities) and to maintain the edge (to keep it sharp as it is used). Observe these guidelines for using the steel: The Steel 1) Hold the blade at a constant 20-degree angle to the steel, just as when using the stone (Figure this picture) A smaller angle will be ineffective. A larger one will dull the edge. 2)Make light strokes. Do not grind the knife against the steel. 3)Make even, regular strokes. Alternate each stroke, first on one side of the blade, then on the other. 4)Use no more than five or six strokes on each side of the blade. Too much steeling can dull the blade. 5)Use the steel often. Then you will rarely have to sharpen the knife on the stone Sharpening Steel 46
A proper grip gives you maximum control over the knife, increases your cutting accuracy and speed, prevents slipping, and lessens the chance of an accident. The type of grip you use depends, in part, on the job you are doing and the size of the knife. The grip illustrated in Figure in this picture is one of the most frequently used for general cutting and slicing. Handling The Knife The Grip The Pinch Grip 47
While one hand controls the knife, the other hand controls the product being cut. Proper positioning of the hand achieves three goals: The Guiding Hand 1)Hold the item being cut. In this picture, the item is held firmly so it will not slip. 2)Guide the knife. Note the knife blade slides against the fingers. The position of the hand controls the cut. 3)Protect the hand from cuts. Fingertips are curled under, out of the way of the blade. The Pinch Grip 48
Cutting food products into uniform shapes and sizes is important for two reasons: Basic Cuts and Shapes 1) It ensures even cooking. 2) It enhances the appearance of the product. Basic Cut And Shapes 49
(a) Tourné: 2 inches long × 3 ⁄4 inches in diameter, with 7 sides, and flat-ended (5 cm × 2 cm). Basic Cuts and shapes: (b) Large dice: 3 ⁄4 × 3 ⁄4 × 3 ⁄4 inch (2 × 2 × 2 cm). (c) Medium dice: 1 ⁄2 × 1 ⁄2 × 1 ⁄2 inch (12 × 12 × 12 mm). (d) Small dice: 1 ⁄4 × 1 ⁄4 × 1 ⁄4 inch (6 × 6 × 6 mm). 50
(e) Brunoise: 1 ⁄8 × 1 ⁄8 × 1 ⁄8 inch (3 × 3 × 3 mm). (f) Fine brunoise: 1 ⁄16 × 1 ⁄16 × 1 ⁄16 inch (1.5 × 1.5 × 1.5 mm). (g) Rondelle: round or bias-round cuts, varied diameter, or thickness. (h) Paysanne: 1 ⁄2 × 1 ⁄2 × 1 ⁄2 inch (12 × 12 × 3 mm; round, square, or rectangular). (i) Lozenge: 1 ⁄2 × 1 ⁄2 × 1 ⁄8 inch (12 × 12 × 3 mm; diamondshape). 51
(l) Julienne (or allumette potatoes): 1 ⁄8 × 1 ⁄8 × 1–2 inches (3 × 3 × 25–50 mm). (j) Fermière: irregular shape, varied diameter; thickness as needed. (k) Bâtonnet: 1 ⁄4 × 1 ⁄4 × 2–21 ⁄2 inches (6 × 6 × 5–6 cm). (m) Fine julienne: 2 × 1 ⁄16 × 1–2 inches (1.5 × 1.5 × 25–50 mm). 52
Although many slicing and dicing machines are available, none can match the skill of a chef with a sharp knife. Possessing good knife skills is an essential part of becoming a chef. Products can be prepared in a safe and efficient manner with proper knife skills. 5.5 - The Skill of the Knife To increase holding qualities. To save time. To remove undesired flavours. To enable the product to be processed further. 5.6 - Preliminary Cooking and Flavoring Blanching And Parcooking 53
To marinate means to soak a food product in a seasoned liquid to: Marinades have three categories of ingredients: Cooked Raw Instant Dry Marinating 1) Flavor the product. 2) Tenderize the product. 3) Control bacteria growth. 1) Oil. 2) Acid from vinegar, lemon juice, wine. 3) Flavorings - spices, herbs, vegetables. Kinds of Marinades 54
Most foods to be deep-fried, with the major exception of potatoes, are first given a protective coating of breading or batter. This coating serves four purposes: Breading means coating a product with breadcrumbs or other crumbs or meal before deep-frying, pan-frying, or sautéing. 5.7 - Preparation for Frying 1)It helps retain moisture and flavour in the product. 2)It protects the fat against the moisture and salt in the food, which would speed the deterioration of the frying fat. 3)It protects the food from absorbing too much fat. 4)It gives crispness, flavour, and good appearance to the product. Breading 55
Flour Egg wash Crumbs The Three Stages of The Standard Breading Procedure Batters are semiliquid mixtures containing flour or other starch. They are used in deep-frying to give a crisp, flavourful, golden-brown coating. There are many formulas and variations for batters. Baking powder. Beaten egg whites. Carbonation from beer or seltzer used in the batter. Batters 1)Many liquids are used, including milk, water, and beer. 2) Eggs may or may not be used. 3)Thicker batters make thicker coatings. Too thick a batter makes a heavy, unpalatable coating. 4)Leavenings are frequently used to give a lighter product. These may be: 56
Any product that has been partially or fully prepared by the manufacturer. Remember convenience foods are not a substitute for well prepared foods. They provide a way to extend menu offerings without increasing labour. You should make sure they are the quality you want for your customer base. 5.8 - Handling Convenience Foods 57
Handle the same way you would fresh, raw ingredients. Examine as soon as received. Store properly. Know the shelf life of the product. Defrost the foods properly. Know-how and to what extent the product have been prepared. Use proper cooking methods. Treat the foods as though you did the preparation. 5.9 - Guidelines for Handling Convenience Foods SCAN ME Chapter 5 Activity 58
CHAPTER 6 SALAD AND SALAD DRESSING
Permanent Emulsions mixture of oil and vinegar, but the two liquids do not contains egg yolk,which is a strong emulsifie separate. Temporary Emulsions. Simple mixture of oil, vinegar, and seasonings Two liquids always separate after being shaken or beaten together. The ratio of basic vinaigrette is 3 parts oil to 1 part vinegar Basic salad dressings Salad Dressings Salad dressings are liquids or semiliquids used to flavor salads Oil and vinegar dressings Mayonnaise based dressings Cooked dressings more tart flavor made with little or no oil and with starch thickener. How to make mayonnaise How to make o basic vinegerate dressing 59
Vinegar Corn oil Olive oil Peanut oil Walnut oil salad dressing ingredients Oils Lemon Juice Yolk Seasonings and flavouring salad dressing recipe 5 vinaigrette dressing recipe Classic Creamy Italian Salad Dressing Caesar salad dressing 60
Accompaniment salads Main-course salads Salads Types of Salads Appetizer Salads Should stimulate the appetite. Contain cheese, ham, salami, shrimp, and crabmeat, Must balance and harmonize with the rest of the meal large enough as a full meal and contain a substantial portion of protein Separate-Course Salads light and in no way fillinG Dessert Salads Sweet Contain items such as fruits, sweetened gelatin, and nuts 61
The Structure of a Salad Base Body Dressing Garnish Main part of the salad Edible decorative item added to a salad for eye appeal Salad Ingredient SCAN ME Salad ingredient flashcards Activity SCAN ME Salad and salad dressing exercise 62
CHAPTER 7 STOCK AND SAUCES
7.1 STOCK what you need to know? The important of stock in the kitchen is indicated by the French word for stock: fond, meaning “foundation” or “base.” In classical cuisine, the ability to prepare good stocks is the most basic of all skills because so much of the work of the entire kitchen depends on them. A good stock is the foundation of soups, sauces, and most braised foods and stews. Think liquid soluble ingredients derived from meat, poultry, fish, and their bones as well as vegetables and seasonings combine the right ingredients with the right technique. 63
1. Prepare basic mirepoix 2. How to cutting mirepoix for stock 3. Prepare white veal or beef stock, chicken stock, fish stock, and brown stock. 4. Flavour liquids using a sachet d’épices, or spice bag. 5. Prepare white, blond, and brown roux, and use them to thicken liquids. 6. Prepare and use beurre manié. 7. Prepare and use egg yolk and cream liaison 8. Prepare the five mother sauces: béchamel, velouté, brown sauce or espagnole, tomato, and hollandaise 9. Prepare pan gravies. 10. Prepare miscellaneous hot and cold sauces 7.1.1 After reading this chapter, you should be able 64
Beef, Veal, Chicken, Lamb, Pork, Fish Ham and Game 7.1.2 The Ingredient of Stock Vegetable Stocks, An Exception, Draw Their Flavour Entirely from Vegetable 7.1.3 The kinds of bones used determine the kind of stock. Chicken stock White stock Brown stock Fish stock Made from chicken bones. Made from beef or veal bones Chicken bones or even pork bones. Made from beef or veal bones have been browned in an oven. Made from fish bones and trimmings left over after filleting. 65
7.2 MIREPOIX Aromatic vegetables are the second most important contributors of flavour to stocks. (In the case of vegetable stocks, they are the most important.) 7.2.1 Mirepoix (meer-pwah) A combination of onions, carrots, and celery. It is a basic flavouring preparation used in all areas of cooking. It’s also for sauces, soups, meats, poultry, fish, and vegetables. 66
The size depends on how long the mirepoix will cook. 7.2.2Cutting Mirepoix Table 7.1 Mirepoix To Make 1 Pond 400gm Onions Celery Carrot 8 Oz 4oz 4oz 200g 100g 100g As for beef stock, cut the vegetables into large pieces (1 to 2 inches [3 to 5 cm]). Cutting into small pieces is necessary for releasing flavour in a short time Chop the vegetables coarsely into pieces of Relatively uniform size. 67
7.2.3 Seasonings And Spices Spices and herbs should only be used sparingly. Herbs and spices are usually tied in a cheesecloth bag called a sachet d’épices (sa-shay day peace; French for “spice bag”) 68
To make a bouquet garni Is an assortment of fresh herbs and other aromatic ingredients tied in a bundle with string. To tie small herbs securely, enclose them between the two halves of leek. To make a sachet Place the spices and herbs in the centre of a square of clean cheesecloth. Draw the corners together and tie with a length of twine. For making stock, use a piece of twine long enough to be tied to the handle of the stockpot for easy removal. 69
7.2.4 Onions For Flavouring The onions in the mirepoix, an onion brûlé (awn yohn broo lay; French for “burnt onion”) is sometimes added to brown stock to give it colour as well as flavour. To prepare, cut a large onion in half crosswise and place it, cut side down, on a flattop range or in a heavy skillet. Cook until the cut surface is dark brown. Add to the stock. Onion brûlé Another form of onion for flavouring is the onion piqué (pee kay) This is used not so much for stocks but for soups and sauces. To prepare, stick a bay leaf to a whole, peeled onion with a whole clove. Adding the bay leaf and clove attached to the onion makes removing them easier when cooking is finished Onion piqué Onion piqué Onion brûlé 70
7.3 Ingredients for Vegetable Stocks Vegetable stock Vegetable stocks, made without any animal products, play an important role in vegetarian cooking and are also used in more traditional kitchens in response to customers’ requests for light, healthful dishes. The basic ingredients for vegetable stocks are vegetables, herbs and spices, water, and, sometimes, wine Here are a few additional guidelines for making vegetable stocks or broths: Starchy vegetables, such as potatoes, sweet potatoes, and winter squash, make a stock cloudy. Use them only if clarity is not important. Some vegetables, especially strong-flavoured ones, are best avoided. Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, and artichokes can overwhelm a stock with a strong flavour or odour. Dark green leafy vegetables, especially. spinach, develop an unpleasant flavour when cooked a long time. Beets turn a stock red. Cook long enough to extract flavours but not so long that flavours are lost. Best cooking time is 30 to 45 minutes. Sweating the vegetables in a small amount of oil before adding water gives them a mellower flavour, but this step can be omitted. Butter can be used if it is not necessary to avoid all animal products. 71
Rinse the bones in cold water. This washes off blood and other impurities from the surface. It is especially important if the bones are not strictly fresh. Place the bones in a stockpot or steamjacketed kettle and cover with cold water. Impurities dissolve more readily in cold water. Hot water retards extraction. Bring the water to a boil. As the water heats, impurities solidify (coagulate) and rise to the surface as scum. Drain the bones and rinse them well. The bones are now ready for the stockpot. 7.3 PROCEDURES Making stock may seem, at first glance, a simple procedure. However, many steps are involved, each with a rather complicated set of reasons. If you are to be successful at making consistently good stocks, you must understand not only what to do but also why you are doing it. The following outlines give procedures for making basic stocks as well as the reasons for every step. After learning these procedures and checking with your instructors for any modifications or variations they may have, you will be able to turn to the individual recipes, where the steps are given again, but without explanations. 7.3.1 Procedure for Blanching Bones 72
Brown stock. The difference between brown stocks is that the bones and mirepoix are browned for the brown stock. This causes a few complications, as you will see. Otherwise, the procedure is essentially the same. A second method for browning the mirepoix is given in the alternative procedure. 7.3.2 Preparing Brown Stocks Table 7. 1 Brown Stock To Make Bones Mirepoix Tomato Water Sachet 1 Gallon 8 lb 1 lb 8 oz 5-6 qt 1 4 liter 4kg 500g 250g 5-6 l 1 A standard fish stock is made the same way as a white stock. This type of stock is useful for soups and similar seafood preparations. For sauces, chefs usually prefer a more flavourful fish stock called a fumet. A fish fumet is made by first sweating the bones and mirepoix in fat. White wine is then added to deglaze, and finally water is added and the fumet finished in the normal manner. 7.3.3 Preparing Fish Stocks 73
Fish stock White stock Table 7. 2 Fish Stock 7.3.4 Preparing White Stocks A good white stock has rich, full flavour, good body, clarity, and little or no colour. Chicken stocks may have a light-yellow colour. To Make Bones Mirepoix,white water White wine Sachet 1 Gallon 10-12 lb 1 lb 1gal 24fl oz 1 4 liter 5-6 kg 500g 4l 750ml 1 Table 7.3 White Stock (Chicken) To Make Bones Mirepoix water Sachet 1 Gallon 8 lb 1 lb 5-6 qt 1 4 liter 4 kg 500g 5-6 l 1 74
Glaze In French, glace (glahss) Stocks are concentrated by boiling or simmering them to evaporate part of the water. This is called making a reduction, or reducing. Reduction is an important technique in saucemaking and in many other areas of cooking because it produces a more flavourful product by concentrating it. A reduced stock also has more body because the gelatine is concentrated 7.4 REDUCTIONS AND GLAZES What Are Glazes? Is a stock reduced until it coats the back of a spoon. 1 2 75
7.4.1 Pocedure for Preparing Glazes Reduce the stock over moderate heat. Skim the surface frequently When reduced by half to two-thirds, strain into a smaller, heavy saucepan and continue to reduce over lower heat until the liquid is syrupy and coats a spoon. Pour into containers, cool, cover, and refrigerate. Glazes will keep for several weeks or longer if properly stored. They may also be frozen 76
7.4.2 Kinds of Glazes 1. Meat glaze, or glace de viande (glahss duh vee awnd) made from brown stock. 2. Chicken glaze, or glace de volaille (voh lye) made from chicken stock. 3. Fish glaze, or glace de poisson (pwah sohn) made from fish stock. Glazes sauce 77
7.5 Sauces Flavour A sauce may be defined as a flavourful liquid, usually thickened, used to season, flavour, and enhance other foods. A sauce adds the following qualities to foods: Moistness Richness Appearance (colour and shine) Interest and appetite appeal 78
7. 5.1 The Structure of Sauces The major sauces we consider here are made of three kinds of ingredients: 1. A liquid, the body of the sauce 2. A thickening agent 3. Additional seasoning and flavouring ingredients To understand sauce-making, you must first learn how to prepare these components and then how to combine them into finished sauces. 7.5.2 Liquid A liquid ingredient provides the body or base of most sauces. Most classic sauces are built on one of five liquids or bases. The resulting sauces are called leading sauces or mother sauces. 79
7.5.3 5 MOTHER SAUCES TOMATO Base : tomato Secondary sauces: spanish Common uses: pasta VELOUTE Base : white stock Secondary sauces: sauce normandy Common uses: roasted chicken HOLLANDAISE Base : egg yolk & butter Secondary sauces: bearnaise Common uses: eggs benedict ESPAGNOLE Base : brown stock Secondary sauces: bordelaise Common uses: roasted leg of lamb BECHAMEL Base : milk Secondary sauces: cream mornay Common uses: croque madame 5 mother sauces 80
7.5.4 THICKENING AGENTS 7.5.5 Roux A sauce must be thick enough to cling lightly to the food. Chefs use the term nappé (nap pay; from the French napper, meaning “to top”) to describe the texture of a sauce that has the right texture to coat foods. Starches as Thickeners Starch iIs the most common. Most useful thickener for making sauces. Gelatinization. 81
Flour Is the main starch used. Available to cooks include: -corn-starch -arrowroot -waxy corn - instant or pregelatinized starch - breadcrumbs -other vegetables and grain products -such as potato starch -rice flour. Starch Grains Must be separated before heating in liquid to avoid lumps. If the grains are not separated, lumps occur because of the starch on the outside of the lumps quickly the gelatine. 82
7.5.6 Preparing Roux cooked for just a few minutes, just enough to cook out the raw taste. Cooking must end before the roux becomes colour and as soon as it takes on a foamy, chalky, slightly gritty appearance. used for béchamel and other white sauces based on milk. Starch particles Mix starch with fat. This is the roux principle. Mixing starch with cold liquid. This is the principle used for the starch as corn flour. White roux 83
Brown roux Cooked until it takes on a light brown colour and a nutty aroma. Cooking must take place over low heat For a deeper brown roux, must be browned in an oven before adding it to the fat. Table 8.1 Basic Procedure for Making All Roux Blond roux or pale roux Cook the roux for a bit longer just long enough for the colour to start to darken. Used for sauces based on white stocks, such as veloutés. The sauces are light ivory in tone. 1. Melt fat. 2. Add correct amount of flour and stir until fat and flour are thoroughly mixed. 3. Cook to required degree for white, blond, or brown roux. Cooking is done in a saucepan on top of the stove, and the roux is stirred for even cooking. Use low heat for brown roux, moderate heat for white or blond roux. Large quantities may be baked in an oven. Some restaurants make up batches large enough to last for several days or a week. 84
7.5.7 Other Thickening Agents mixture of equal parts soft, raw butter and flour used for quick thickening at the end of cooking to finish a sauce. mixture of flour and cold water. cold water or other cold liquid until smooth. a texture as those made with roux A simple tomato sauce is basically a seasoned vegetable purée a mixture of egg yolks and cream used to enrich and lightly thicken a sauce or other liquid. Pure egg yolks coagulate at 140° to 158°F (60° to 70°C). used as the thickening agent for hollandaise and related sauces 1.Beurre manié (burr mahnyay) 2.Whitewash 3.corn-starch 4.Vegetable purées 5.Egg Yolk and Cream Liaison 6.Egg Yolk Emulsification Table 8.2 The Leading Sauces Liquid white stock brown stock tomato stock butter Thickening Agent + white roux + white or blod roud + brown roux + (optional, see Note) + egg yolks Leading sauce = bechamel sauce = velounte sauce = brown sauce = tomato sauce hollandaise 85