Hoop Quilts for Beginners

Hoop Quilts
FOR BEGINNERS
15 Designs Using Easy
Patchwork and Embroidery

AnneMarie Chany

36 40 44
52 56 60
68 72 76
84 88 92

Contents

Chapter 1: Tools, Hoops, and Materials . . . . . . . . . 6

How to Use This Book. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

48 Patchwork Tools. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Embroidery Tools. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Hoops and Other Tools. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Chapter 2: Techniques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Block Basics. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Curved Border Basics. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Embroidery and Embellishment Basics. . . . . . . . . . 25

Finishing Hoops. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Chapter 3: Hoop Quilt Projects . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

#1 The Original . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

64 #2 Add One. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
#3 With Love. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

#4 Pun’kin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48

#5 Pine Wreath. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

#6 Home Sweet Home. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56

#7 Bear’s Star. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60

#8 Monogram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64

#9 Framed Star . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68

#10 Basket of Roses. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72

#11 Rolling Stone. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76

80 #12 Sunset Star . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
#13 Dresden. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84

#14 Flower Child. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88

#15 Globe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92

Bonus: Orphan Blocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96

Templates and Patterns. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
About the Author. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112

96

Patchwork Tools

Sewing machine (not pictured) and sewing yardage. I also recommend the Quilt-in-a-Day Half-
machine needles: I recommend Microtex or sharp Square Triangle Ruler to assist in squaring up Half-
Square Triangle units.
needles for piecing patchwork.
1/4" (0.6cm) foot: This foot for your machine is a Straight pins: Always an essential.
Scissors: Most of the cutting done in patchwork
specialty foot that will allow you to accurately sew a 1/4" uses a rotary cutter, but a nice pair of fabric scissors is
also useful. I often use sewing scissors to cut batting
(0.6cm) seam. Quilting and patchwork exclusively use and fusible fleece, trim threads, etc. Keep your scissors
a 1/4" (0.6cm) seam. To make your corners and points sharp. Make sure you label them for your sewing room
as “fabric only” so that your family doesn’t steal them
line up, an accurate seam allowance is key. to cut paper and who knows what else!
Cutting mat:This will protect your work surface. It Seam ripper: Unfortunately, this tool is often our
best friend. Make sure to have one on hand to remove
is preferable to work with a large mat—18" x 24" (45.7 stitches just in case you make a mistake.
Sewing thread: There are many types of
x 61cm) or bigger—that has grid lines or rulers. sewing machine threads, and every quilter has their
Rotary cutter: A standard rotary cutter uses a 1/8" preference. For piecing patchwork, I recommend
choosing a 50 wt. 100% cotton neutral shade that will
(45mm) blade. It is very easy to cut through multiple blend well with your project.

layers of fabric accurately using a rotary cutter

and mat.
Acrylic ruler: Quilting rulers come in a wide

variety of shapes and sizes, including specialty shapes
like the curves seen in this book. To start, a 61/2" x

24" (16.5 x 61cm) ruler is useful to cut across fabric

sewing straight
thread pins

1/4" (0.6cm) cutting mat
foot acrylic
ruler
scissors
seam rotary
sewing machine ripper cutter
needles

10 | HOOP QUILTS FOR BEGINNERS

Embroidery Tools

Thread: There are endless types of thread available for • Metallic thread is a thread that has metallic
use in embroidery methods. The basics are mentioned filaments wound with natural or synthetic thread
here, but do not be afraid to try out something new fibers for a glittery look. These threads can be
or unique that you find interesting. When you begin a slippery and get tangled, so they are a bit more
project, take a minute to jot down what type of thread difficult to work with, but they are fun for adding a
and color number you are using for reference. few accents to a work.
• Floss, also known as embroidery floss or embroidery Yarn, ribbon, crochet thread, twine, etc.: There

thread, is the most commonly available thread. It are so many types of thread out there to experiment
is 100% cotton, solid or variegated, and is available with. Get creative and give one a try to add dimension
as 6-strand skeins. The strands can be separated or and texture to your embroidery.
combined to achieve the desired thread thickness.
DMC®, COSMO, and Aurifil™ are a few brands Needles: If you browse the needles in the notions
of floss I recommend, as they have a wide range of section of the craft store, it is easy to become confused
colors available. by how many options are available for hand sewing.
• Perle cotton is a slightly twisted single-strand For hand embroidery, embroidery needles with sharp
cotton. It comes in skeins and balls and is available tips and large eyes are best. Embroidery needles are
in many sizes, with 3 being the thickest and 12 the sharp to pierce through the tight woven fabric (as
finest. Common perle cotton weights for embroidery opposed to tapestry needles, which have blunt tips that
are 5, 8, and 12. It has a slightly glossy finish. sew through a loose/large weave). These needles also
have larger eyes to accommodate the many strands in

The handwork case shown floss
is the fold-up sewing
folio from Stitched Sewing
Organizers by Aneela Hoey.

marking
tools

pincushion perle
cotton
needles

floss embroidery
scissors

floss

thimble

needle needles
threader

Embroidery Tools  |  11

Block Basics

Sewing a Scant 1/4" (0.6cm) Seam Most of the time, some adjustment will need to
be made to achieve the scant 1/4" (0.6cm). This may
To make your piecing accurate, one of the most require moving the needle position right or left if you
important things you can do is test your scant 1/4" have a machine with an adjustable needle, or placing a
(0.6cm) seam. When you sew a 1/4" (0.6cm) seam, guide (piece of tape) on the footbed of your machine
does the unit actually measure the dimension it’s if you have a machine with a fixed needle position.
supposed to after you press it? “Scant” in this case In the photo below, you can see that sewing the seam
means sewing a seam just a hair smaller than 1/4" with the needle in its default position results in a block
(0.6cm), so that when you press the pieces open, your that is slightly shy of the 2" (5.1cm) it’s supposed to
unit measures correctly. be. After finding the correct position for the scant
1/4" (0.6cm) seam, the block comes out exactly to 2"
Don’t make the same mistake I did. For years, I (5.1cm) when two 11/4" x 2" (3.2 x 5.1cm) rectangles
sewed with a true 1/4" (0.6cm) seam, saying, “Yeah, are sewn together.
that’s about it.” I never took the time to find the scant
1/4" (0.6cm), and as a result, my seams and resulting Once you find that sweet spot, adjust your machine
block sizes were always a little off. This makes lining up or use the tape guide for a scant 1/4" (0.6cm) each and
all your patchwork intersections difficult and a bit of a every time you sew patchwork.
mystery. I didn’t realize that the thread and the seam
take up some space in the measurement, which makes Test It!
your block come out a bit short every time. Spending
just a few minutes to adjust your machine to find Cut two rectangles that are 11/4"
the scant 1/4" (0.6cm) will save you many headaches (3.2cm) wide. It does not matter how
moving forward. long they are. Sew the strips together
lengthwise. Press the piece open. Does
Sewing machines generally come with default the unit come out to exactly 2" (5.1cm)
generic presser feet. The zigzag foot and satin stitch wide? If not, then you will need to make
foot are used for most stitches and straight-line an adjustment. Either shift your needle
sewing. Some higher-end models may come with a 1/4" or lay a guide down until you find the
(0.6cm) foot. The 1/4" (0.6cm) foot is specifically sweet spot where your pressed-open
for quilters trying to sew that perfect or scant
1/4" (0.6cm) seam. If you don’t have one of these unit measures 2" (5.1cm).
feet already, I highly recommend getting one for
patchwork. The black guide on the right side of the
foot helps position your fabric by butting the edges of
the squares right up against the guide.

zigzag
foot

satin stitch
foot

1/4" (0.6cm) Two examples of 11/4" x 2" (3.2 x 5.1cm) rectangle strips
foot sewn together and pressed to one side. The one on the left
is short of 2" (5.1cm), but the one on the right is spot on.
Presser feet
16 | HOOP QUILTS FOR BEGINNERS

Squaring Up Blocks

When sewing patchwork, squaring up your blocks is an important step. Do not skip squaring up! Many times,
it may seem unnecessary and that close is good enough. To really make your blocks line up and your points turn
out crisp and clean, though, squaring up each unit helps immensely.You will be much more successful and happier
with your project if you take the time to square up each unit and check the dimensions. Blocks will line up easily
if they are all the same size. When making hoop quilts, be sure to square up after making any patchwork units and
Drunkard’s Path curve blocks (see page 21).

1. On a ruler, mark off the unfinished 2. For HST blocks: Lay the diagonal Right-Handed
size to which the block needs to be of the ruler on top of the diagonal of Squaring
trimmed. It helps to place sticky notes the block seam. For all blocks: Make
along the grid lines so you can see sure to center the marked-off section If you are right-handed, simply
the appropriate size without getting of the ruler over the block so there is reverse the sides you cut so that
confused. In this example, a 21/2" (6.4cm) a small amount of fabric to trim on all they’re on the top and right side
square is gridded off on the ruler. sides. Visually check that there is fabric to begin. Then, rotate your piece
overlap past your mark-offs on all four
sides before proceeding to cut. so that you’re cutting on the
top and right again.

3. Use your rotary cutter to trim the 4. Lift the ruler off the block, and then 5. Your HST block is a 21/2" (6.4cm)
excess on the top and left side first. turn the block 180°. The two sides you square, unfinished, in this example.
just cut should be on the right and
bottom. Trim the remaining two sides, Block Basics  |  19
which are now on the top and left. Be
sure to align the ruler over the diagonal
again for HST blocks. Place the right
and bottom edges of the block at the
marked-off size on the ruler.

Embroidery and
Embellishment Basics

Embroidery Stitches

RUNNING STITCH

Start on the wrong side of the fabric (or the back of the work). Bring the needle and thread up to the front, coming
up at point A. Bring the needle back down to the back side at point B and back up at C. Continue coming up and
down, making evenly spaced straight stitches with just a little space between each stitch. Several straight stitches
in a row are called a running stitch. In hoop quilts, I often use this stitch around the circle border. I typically stitch
about 1/4" (0.6cm) away from the seam, with stitches also about 1/4" (0.6cm) in length and 1/4" (0.6cm) apart. Play
with the spacing to see what you like.

BACK STITCH 1 2 3 DB
4 ECA
Back stitch looks like an outline B
stitch. It is similar to running C
stitch, but there are no gaps A
between the stitches. Make a single
straight stitch, coming up at point Running stitch
A and down at point B. Bring the

needle up again at point C with

the distance from A to C being

the same distance as A to B. Then,

bring the needle back down at 1 2 3

point A to create two stitches in AB CA E

a row. Continue in this manner, C D

always stitching out at the same

distance away from the last stitch
to keep your stitches evenly spaced. Back stitch

CROSS-STITCH Cross-stitch DB
AC
The cross-stitch will create an “X” shape. Create a diagonal straight stitch by E
coming up at point A and down at point B.The second stitch should create
the X by coming up at point C and down at point D. If you have several D
cross-stitches on a piece, make sure you always start your cross-stitches the F
same way, so that every stitch has the bottom thread of the X going from
bottom left to top right, or the reverse depending on which direction you
are stitching.Your stitches will look nicely coordinated this way.

STAR STITCH 1A D 2A
E E
Start by making a cross-stitch, then
add one extra stitch horizontally
through the center. Easy.

Star stitch C B CB

Embroidery and Embellishment Basics  |  25

Finishing Hoops

Make Bias Binding

The binding of hoop quilts requires bias binding. DO NOT use straight grain binding. Binding cut on the straight
grain does not have any give or stretch. Binding cut on the bias allows the fabric to stretch and wrap around the
outer hoop. It will lay nice and flat when you wrap it. Straight grain binding will be different and awkward to
work with.

There are a few different ways to make bias binding. This is my favorite method. It has a little trick that turns
a square of fabric into inches and inches of bias binding without having to sew together numerous bias-cut strips.
Of course, if you prefer, press your fabric, cut bias strips at a 45° angle from the selvage, and sew them together
one at a time.You may absolutely do so. If you’re looking for a shortcut, though, read on.

¼" (0.6cm) overlap

1. From the binding fabric, cut one 3 3. Place the two triangles, right
18" x 18" (45.7 x 45.7cm) square if sides together, as shown and
you are making a 12" (30.5cm) or 14" pin. Ensure there is 1/4" (0.6cm)
(35.5cm) hoop. If you are making an of overlap at the top tips of the
18" (45.5cm) or 23" (58.5cm) hoop, cut triangles when positioning and
two 18" x 18" (45.7 x 45.7cm) squares pinning them together.
from the required yardage.
4. Sew the two triangles together
 with a 1/4" (0.6cm) seam and press
the seam open.

2½"
(6.4cm)

2 5. On the wrong side of the fabric,
draw a series of diagonal lines
2. Cut the square(s) in half along across the entire piece as shown.
the diagonal. Each line should be 21/2" (6.4cm)
apart, because we are making 21/2"
(6.4cm)–wide bias strips.



5

Continued on next page
Finishing Hoops  |  31

HOOP #1

The Original

Hoop diameters: 12" (30.5cm), 14" (35.5cm), 18" (45.5cm), or 23" (58.5cm)
Fabric used: Me + You Batiks by Hoffman Fabrics; Indah Solids Hand-Dyed Batiks by Hoffman Fabrics

The very first hoop quilt I made was based entirely on my favorite building block of patchwork: the Half-
Square Triangle. This simple block, comprised of two triangles in a square, is patchwork perfection. If you
make several of them, the layout possibilities are endless.

In this hoop, make 16 Half-Square Triangles (HSTs). You can use only one fabric, or a different fabric for
each HST, or any combination of fabrics in between. The choice is yours; every hoop will be unique. Play
with the arrangement of the HSTs and see the different looks you can create. I absolutely love sitting down
on my floor to turn these HSTs every which way I can think of. There is usually an “Ah-ha!” moment when I
discover my favorite arrangement. Check out “Half-Square Triangle Playtime” on page 38 for some ideas.

CUTTING REQUIREMENTS

Refer to the Fabric Amounts table on page 8 for general fabric requirements for the hoop. Use this project’s table
to find the cut sizes for all the patchwork.

Hoop Size 12" (30.5cm) 14" (35.5cm)
Colorful Prints for Center Block Sixteen 23/4" (7cm) squares (E) Sixteen 23/4" (7cm) squares (E)
White Solid Background Sixteen 23/4" (7cm) squares (D) Sixteen 23/4" (7cm) squares (D)
Four Template B1 Four Template B1
Border Fabric #1 Four Template C1 Four Template C1
Two 2" x 61/2" (5.1 x 16.5cm) rectangles (F) Two 3" x 61/2" (7.6 x 16.5cm) rectangles (F)
Border Fabric #2 Two 2" x 8" (5.1 x 20.3cm) rectangles (G) Two 3" x 9" (7.6 x 22.9cm) rectangles (G)
Hoop Size Two Template A1 Two Template A1
Two 2" x 61/2" (5.1 x 16.5cm) rectangles (F) Two 3" x 61/2" (7.6 x 16.5cm) rectangles (F)
Colorful Prints for Center Block Two 2" x 8" (5.1 x 20.3cm) rectangles (G) Two 3" x 9" (7.6 x 22.9cm) rectangles (G)
White Solid Background Two Template A1 Two Template A1

Border Fabric #1 18" (45.5cm) 23" (58.5cm)
Sixteen 31/2" (8.9cm) squares (E) Sixteen 41/4" (10.8cm) squares (E)
Border Fabric #2 Sixteen 31/2" (8.9cm) squares (D) Sixteen 41/4" (10.8cm) squares (D)
Four Template B2 Four Template B3
Four Template C2 Four Template C3
Two 2" x 91/2" (5.1 x 24.1cm) rectangles (F) Two 41/2" x 91/2" (11.4 x 24.1cm) rectangles (F)
Two 2" x 11" (5.1 x 27.9cm) rectangles (G) Two 41/2" x 131/2" (11.4 x 34.3cm) rectangles (G)
Two Template A2 Two Template A3
Two 2" x 91/2" (5.1 x 24.1cm) rectangles (F) Two 41/2" x 91/2" (11.4 x 24.1cm) rectangles (F)
Two 2" x 11" (5.1 x 27.9cm) rectangles (G) Two 41/2" x 131/2" (11.4 x 34.3cm) rectangles (G)
Two Template A2 Two Template A3

36 | HOOP QUILTS FOR BEGINNERS

The Original  |  37

Add One  |  41

PATCHWORK PIECING 3. Sew three squares and one HST 5. Starting with the top left quadrant,
together to make a Four-Patch unit for sew Template B to the left side of the
1. Lay out the eight prints and decide each quadrant. Four-Patch unit from that quadrant.
where you want them to be in the Then, sew Template C to the top of
plus shape. That will determine what 4. Lay out the four Four-Patch units, the unit.
color prints you need to pair together four Template Bs, and four Template
to make the HST units. Use the eight Cs to make Quarter Circle units. Pay 6. Continue sewing one Template
larger squares cut from the eight attention to the position of your Four- B and one Template C to the
assorted print fabrics to make four HST Patch units and what side the B and C corresponding side of each quadrant
units. The methods described in the templates are placed on to make sure to make four Quarter Circle units, again
basic block instructions actually yield the units will make the “plus” shape. paying attention to the orientation of
eight HST units, but we only need four all the HSTs and templates.
for this hoop. Save or discard the extra CB
HSTs. Don’t forget to square up—these
are cut big and need to be trimmed. BC

HSTs should be squared up as follows: CB
12" (30.5cm) hoop and 14" (35.5cm)

hoop: 2" x 2" (5.1 x 5.1cm) unfinished
18" (45.5cm) hoop: 23/4" x 23/4" (7 x 7cm)

unfinished
23" (58.5cm) hoop: 31/2" x 31/2" (8.9 x

8.9cm) unfinished

2. Lay out the four HSTs, four white
squares, and eight remaining assorted
print fabric squares as shown. Separate
the arrangement into four quadrants,
with each quadrant containing one
HST, two assorted print squares, and
one white square.

BC

Embroidery &
Embellishment

• Running stitch: 6 strands DMC #645
around the round border

• Tassels: 6 strands; from left to right:
DMC #470, DMC #165, DMC #972,
DMC #3801, DMC #352, DMC #991,
DMC #3849

42 | HOOP QUILTS FOR BEGINNERS

With Love  |  45

7. Make four Drunkard’s Path blocks using four Quarter 9. Prepare the quilt top for hooping by fusing fleece or
Circle units and four Template As. Don’t forget to square up. interfacing to it if needed or desired.

Template A Template A 10. Make bias binding, wrap the outer hoop, and assemble
Border Fabric #1 Border Fabric #2 the hoop.

11. Embroider and/or embellish with as many details as
you’d like.

12. Finish the back by sewing and gathering the seam
allowance fabric and trimming the excess.

Template A Template A Embroidery &
Border Fabric #3 Border Fabric #4 Embellishment

8. Lay out the four Drunkard’s Path blocks. Make the quilt • Running stitch: 6 strands DMC #601
top center and add the pieced border. around the heart

• Chain stitch: 3 strands DMC #150 (top
left), DMC #666 (top right), DMC #604
(bottom right), DMC #814 (bottom left).
The chain stitch forms a circular frame just
outside the white area of the patchwork.
Changing colors to contrast the background
fabrics gives the hoop some visual interest.

• Ponytail holders: On top of the wooden
blocks of this hoop, I added some little girls’
ponytail holders I found in the clearance aisle
after Valentine’s Day. They look super cute up
there, adding embellishment with their tulle
ribbon and iridescent vinyl. Keep an eye out
for these types of odds and ends to add spice
to your hoops.

With Love  |  47

Pun’kin | 49

Pine Wreath  |  53

Home Sweet Home  |  57

Monogram | 65

Templates and Patterns

All templates and patterns are provided at actual size.
Template A2 and Template A3 need to be assembled before use.

Template A1

1" (2.5cm)

100 | HOOP QUILTS FOR BEGINNERS

Template D 1" (2.5cm)

Template F

Template E
104 | HOOP QUILTS FOR BEGINNERS

AAAAAA BBBBBB CCCCCCMonogramEmbroideryPatterns
DDDDDD EEEEEE FFFFFF
GGGGGG HHHHHH IIIIII106 | HOOPQUILTSFORBEGINNERS

Make Amazing

PATCHWORK PROJECTS

from Just One Quilt Block!

The perfect place to start for anyone interested in the craft • An inspiring project guide for
of patchwork, Hoop Quilts for Beginners offers fun, quick, and crafters and quilters of any skill
easy projects to introduce you to quilting and embroidery. level to create quick and easy
Approachable and accessible, this book features 15 charming hoop-framed quilt blocks
hoop quilt projects that are all made with just one quilt block.
Simply sew a block, add some details, and frame it in an • Includes 15 block designs and
embroidery hoop—that’s it! With helpful opening sections on hoop projects with customizable
tools and materials, as well as technique tutorials covering the sizing, step-by-step instructions,
basics of various blocks, embroidery stitches, embellishments, and helpful diagrams
and more, you’ll be inspired and ready for the hoop designs
that follow. Choose from the 15 step-by-step projects and stitch • Features insightful sections
stunning wall art, keepsakes, and gifts using scrap fabrics, orphan on tools, materials, hoops,
blocks, or UFOs (unfinished objects) in no time! With Hoop quilt block basics, embroidery
Quilts for Beginners, you’ll discover a quick and exciting craft to stitches, adding embellishments,
learn new skills, express your creativity, and have a ton of fun! finishing a hoop, and more

• Contains full-size templates
and patterns, as well as a
bonus project tutorial for using
orphan blocks

Beautiful photographs, graphs, and illustrations make this beginner’s EAN$17.99 US | $22.99 CAN
instructional book a fabulous start to a wonderful craft. This is one of the
ISBN: 978-1-947163-88-1
most informative and helpful books on quilting I have read. 51799

—Cynde Suite, librarian at Bartow County Public Library System 9 781947 163881
(Georgia, USA) and book reviewer with Library Journal

This beautifully illustrated book is a busy quilter’s dream. These small
projects with crystal-clear instructions will give quilters the satisfaction

of finishing a beautiful work of art in a short amount of time.

—Sherilyn Mortensen of Sea Sherilyn Sew, author of Quilting Through theYear
and co-author of Wonderful Curves Sampler Quilt Block Book

Hoop Quilts for Beginners offers detailed instructions and over a dozen
projects to illustrate the techniques. These small projects can be completed
quickly and would make great wall pieces to include with gifted bed quilts.

—Mary Hogan, author of Log Cabin Improv

A perfect way to use those precious little pieces of fabric we have
saved up and want to enjoy in a uniquely creative way.

—Pat Sloan, “The Voice of Quilting”™