Places to Paddle in Cornwall Part II - Cornwall Custom Kayaks

Places to Paddle in Cornwall Part II

The North Coast

Low tide at Portreath

This stretch of coast probably accommodates the most well known
surfing beaches in the UK. This is one of the things that attract visitors to

Cornwall, yet when it comes to kayaking a swell is a mixed blessing.

Paddling in a decent sized swell near to the rocks is an exhilarating
experience, the downside being the difficulties in landing and the

confusing seas created from the backwash, magnified and distorted in
tidal races on the headlands. Furthermore a swell can get up in a few
hours, sometimes with little warning; after all the water stretches from

here across to the Americas and down to the Antarctic.

Thus apart from one or two areas which will be highlighted, and the
attractions of the beaches with a small swell; this is not a piece of coast

for the inexperienced.

What this guide sets out to do is to describe where, and how you
can access the sea and estuaries around Cornwall.

What is cannot do is to tell you if it is safe to do so. Where to
paddle is dependent on paddling ability and conditions - which can
change within the hour, and what may have been safe is no longer so.

Although the author has tried to ensure the accuracy of the information below mistakes will inevitably be made; furthermore we live
in a world that is constantly changing and inevitably some information will become outdated before a revision of the material.

Location of car parks is given through Ordanance Survey Grid Reference and the reader will need a copy of the relevent sheet when planning
the trip. Alternatively car parks can be identified using Google Earth at the particular location described – they come up very clearly in the
picture (and should not be confused with caravan parks – cars being smaller and less regularly placed).

The author has identified that a beach is life-guarded where known- some that are will have been missed.

Location, Access and Egress Degree of difficulty & effect Other factors
Description of conditions
Access at Sennen (SW263352) is best from the Find out the sea state in this area,
Sennen to St small harbour being sheltered from the swell. It Gwynver (Life Guards in conditions recorded at the Seven Stones
Ives is possible to drop the boats off here then park summer) takes more of a Light vessel approx half way out to the
swell than Sennen (Life

Magnificent, in the car park by the beach (263355). Going Guards in summer) and is Scilly Isles:
challenging north it used to be possible to access and generally bigger which http://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/station_page.php?
coastline for egress at Gwynver the next beach (a although good news if you station=62107
the continuation of Whitsands bay at low tide); but it want to surf; will create It will even tell you how cold the water is.
experienced. is a long way up the steep hill to the top and escalating difficulty for landing It is wise to have knowledge of the sea
needs researching as the car park no longer or departing from the beach in state before traveling – avoiding a wasted
appears to be there. Not much of an option with a sea kayak. The coast journey. Think carefully about your options
a heavy or loaded boat. There are two northwards from Gwenver for landing if the wave height is greater
campsites near to Gwenver, Treveda, due east although not backed by cliffs than 2ft.
the nearest, and another to the West. would pose difficulties in
This is a very exposed coastline, picking up landing on the rocks should With regard to tides the reader is referred
pretty much any swells or sea from the south to there be a significant swell to Reeds Small Craft Almanac (Tidal
North East, there are few landing places and running. About a mile or so Gates – Lands End p 192) which observes
north of Priests Cove, pretty much no access or north of Gwenver past Porth that around Penwith, whatever the
egress until St Ives. Tidal flows are strong and Nanven – the cliffs drop direction of the main tidal flow (as
complex; thus this is a stretch of coast for straight down to the sea until depicted in a tidal atlas) there is often a
experienced well-equipped parties. Priests Cove. Beyond that contra-flow inshore during a considerable
The rewards are great – an abundance and the coast line is sheer until proportion of the flow and parts of the ebb
diversity of sea birds and mammals including Pendeen where there is tide, this also varies according to location
whales, plus basking sharks backed by a landing & access – see left. on this coastline.
beautiful granite coastline. Beyond that although the
There is restricted parking at Porth Navern cliffs are high, they are All the Atlantic Beaches are a long walk
(SW308358) that is very near the sea regularly indented and to the waters edge at Low tide.
There is parking in the National Trust car park at although you might not be The waves on these beaches break
Priests Cove (SW317353) and access to the able to get your kayak out much more powerfully at low tide.
sea about a hundred yards further on down quite easily, at least it might be
a steep slope. The slipway (which is extremely possible to make some kind With regard to St Ives, of the car parks
slippery) is the property of Priest Cove of landing. which are easy to get to- such as the one
Boatman’s Association. When the author asked There are overfalls on all of above the Tate Gallery the carry is likely to
permission to launch it was given. However I the headlands around the be too long or too uphill, to be of use.
doubt if they would be very happy if a canoeing Atlantic coast of the Penwith
party obstructed their own operation of the slip. Peninsula, particularly The best option is to launch and land
Portheras Cove (SW357387) (north of Pendeen. from Carbis Bay (SW388527) which is
Pendeen) is a satisfactory landing place subject Porthmeor beach St Ives only a mile further on. Here you can
to swell. There are also reputed to be jagged (Life Guards in summer) is park right by the beach.
pieces of metal in the sands from a wreck which not an option for launching or
was dynamited on the beach, but the author did landing if there is a decent

not come across any on the one visit to the swell running.
beach. Egress from this beach would be a very
long carry. However the fishing cove just to Carbis Bay is probably the
the south and under Pendeen (SW358384) safest place on the North
gives access to the car park by the Pendeen Coast of Cornwall to paddle.
light (SW358380), subject to the good will of the Beginners should be safe
fishermen at the cove. here unless there is a big
Other possibilities for landing but not access or swell running. The beach is
egress are: sheltered from the Atlantic by
Pendour Cove (north of Gurnards Head), St Ives and only a very big
Porthzennor cove - The author does not have swell or sea will get in there –
experience of either other than passing them unless of course it is blowing
quite a way out. However from the map they do hard from the North or North
appear to be potential landing points – but not East.
access points, should there be problems.
St Ives
St Ives is a real pain for parking particularly in
the summer when is difficult to make your way
through the streets. It is a town designed for
people not cars.

Location, Carbis Bay has a car park by the beach – Degree of difficulty & effect Other factors
Description recommended (SW388527) of conditions
Access and Egress Hayle Harbour is not recommended for
Carbis Bay - The notes on size of swell the following reasons:
Perranporth Hayle Harbour often being the determining The major factor is the activities of the
The author’s Although right by major roads and parking factor on trip feasibility is harbourmaster and the owner of the land
home patch - abounds it is an option which needs to be relevant here also as all of the around the harbour. Neither are well
known to carefully considered. Not recommended –see is section of coast line is disposed towards canoeists who will be
surfers as right hand column. exposed from the South West charged if they enter from the slip and
“The to North. harangued if they enter from else where.
Badlands” The Bluff(Life Guards in summer), outside In particular the section from Cars not paid for in the official car park will
In the right the entrance to Hayle Harbour (SW385555) from Godrevey to Perranporth be ticketed – this is pursued by the
conditions can be accessed from the car park across the is particularly committing due landowner. The only alternative is to
one of the small road by the pub named the Bluff. You can to the predominance of sheer become a temporary member of Hayle
least go past the pub through the pub car park and cliffs with few landing places.
down the small cliff – hazardous with a heavy

explored, boat, or walk down the road to the south west of This is a section of coast for Canoe Club, which has been effectively
wild and the pub and down the path to the beach, quite a experienced paddlers in well forced into this position by the landowner.
most long carry. Even longer carry at low tide to the led parties. If having successfully negotiated all of the
beautiful water’s edge. above you launch at low tide you will find
parts of the Phillack Towans (car park SW393567) give Apart from access Hayle the entrance of the harbour completely
Cornish access to the beach but its really too far to carry Harbour is a nice safe place blocked by the bar. Trying to walk across it
coast. Wild the boats. to paddle, except near the is treacherous – it’s like quicksand.
life abounds. If you are camping at St Ives Bay Camping site entrance when the tide is
A coast for there is access from their car park at SW running strongly. The West of All of the West/North West-South West
experienced 397368(Life Guards in summer), however the the harbour past Lelant is a Facing beaches in this area are
paddlers dunes are high at this point – a very long carry designated nature reserve in dangerous in a sea or swell, which due
away from at low tide which paddling is not to size or period produce strong rips.
the beaches, Gwithian(Life Guards in summer) is OK for pemitted. The rips in this area are particularly
and when a access if you have a light boat or are surfing as difficult as they can take the form of Cross
swell is it’s a long walk from the car park at SW 413578 The Bluff, outside the Currents i.e. they may run parallel to the
running. to the beach. However the car parks at the far entrance to Hayle Harbour beach for a distance before heading out to
end of Godrevey(Life Guards in summer) (SW385555) is a well known sea. Rips are not constant, but dynamic –
(National Trust) at SW432582 are right by the surf spot . Although the swell they change in accordance with the sets
beach and are recommended. This is not a here will be smaller than more of waves breaking and the amount of
beach for beginners – many people have west facing parts of the North water flowing from them, and the changing
drowned here. Coast it is still significant. bottom contours resulting from the
There are strong tidal flows in changing tide.
There is little access to & from the coast and out of the harbour. The National Trust bans kayaks and other
between Godrevey and Portreath. Fishing Cove small craft from within 50 metres of
(SW586429) has a small beach to land, but There is a large seal Godrevey Island and the Rocks around
access up the steep cliff path with a kayak would population at Godrevey. You Navax Head and the cove just beyond it.
be dangerous. Beyond that there is no access can see them on the beach This is to avoid harassing the large seal
until Basset Cove but again unsuitable for beyond Navax Head by taking population.
carrying a kayak. In a low swell it is possible to the path from the top corner
take a break at low tide on the small beaches of the top car park. If you are Western Cliff and Ralphs Cupboard just to
which appear below North Cliffs. Once past the not sure just ask – it is a well the west of Portreath are spectacular and
next cove, the cliffs are sheer and spectacular to known attraction of the area. worth a look.
Portreath (Life Guards in summer) where
there is access via the car park right next to the The long runs of sheer cliff in
beach. It is also possible to launch and land this area pose two problems
from Portreath Harbour on the north east side of for paddlers in a swell –
the beach. The road from Portreath to Redruth

runs past the top of the harbour where there is a clapotis and a confused sea Porthtowan and the two beaches to the
slipway. It is a very long walk through the plus nowhere to land should north, Chapel Porth and Trevaunance
harbour at low tide, but you will get slightly less you get into trouble. Cove have some of the juciest waves in
wet launching in a swell, particularly at high tide. North Cornwall that break on sand –
This whole area is private property. The swell size at Porthreath – particularly at low tide.
There are sheer cliffs with little let up north west which faces North will be The Blue Bar at Porthtowan is well known
of Portreath to Porthtowan (Life Guards in smaller than at Godrevey or as a good spot to eat drink and socialize.
summer)(SW692480). Although it is filtered Porthtowan. Can be
these days there is a large sewage outfall about deceptive if you are to paddle The café at Chapel Porth does good food
half a mile north west of Portreath. along the cliffs. and the “Hedgehog” ice cream – a
The situation is easier between Porthtowan and consummate sensory experience.
Chapel Porth(Life Guards in summer), The 3 ½ miles of sheer cliffs
particularly at low tide as there is continuous between Portreath and Although it might appear sheltered from
beach between them. There is a National Trust Porthtowan have no landing the land, a strong North East Wind can
Car Park at Chapel Porth (SW697497) right by places at all should you or create a significant sea on this coast
the beach. your group need to land – a
The cliffs are sheer high and spectacular formidable bit of coast in a
between Chapel Porth & Trevaunance Cove. sea.
There are car parks near to the beach at Remember to check the swell
Trevaunance Cove(Life Guards in summer) round here:
(SW719517). Once past the adjoining Trevallas http://www.blue-
Porth the coast is sheer to Perranporth. bar.co.uk/webcam.htm

Location, Access and Egress Degree of difficulty & effect Other factors
Description of conditions
There is a car park right by the beach at Perranporth Webcam: http://www.the-
Perranporth Perranporth (Life Guards in summer)– but This stretch of coast is as wateringhole.co.uk/webcam.htm
to Newquay has a bar above the entrance which excludes exposed as all mentioned so The Watering Hole isolated on the beach
A wild high vehicles. far and is for experienced about half a mile up the beach from the
deserted Once past Perranporth beach the cliffs are sheer paddlers only, in well led town is a well known drinking spot where
coastline to Holywell Bay(Life Guards in summer) with groups, and as described you can hear a band.
for no landing places. The Car Park at Holywell bay earlier, in addition to the
experienced is a long walk from the beach – not normal weather The actual “Holy Well” is in a cave to the
paddlers recommended for launching or landing. considerations, the swell must north of the beach accessible on a low
and groups. The cliffs are again sheer to Porth Joke, or be taken into account. spring tide
Along with

crowded Polly Joke as it is often known. A beautiful place Holywell Bay has a reputation Re: South Fistral
beaches in to walk to for a swim, it is too far to carry a as a dangerous beach where The problem with Esplanade Road is that
the kayak, for the car park is a long way back – there have been fatalities. is fills very quickly as there are only about
Newquay National Trust. twenty spaces or so on the side of the
area on The cliffs are again sheer for the short Kelsey Head, between road and it must be a 300m or so carry
which distance round to Crantock(Life Guards in Holywell Bay and Porth Joke down a twisting path to the beach – not
landing a summer). has a large conical rock to really suitable for a kayak carry.
laden sea Although there is jump in access for surfers on seaward called the Chick.
kayak could the north and south sides of Crantock Bay, the There is a strong tidal flow The North and South ends of Fistral
be only safe access for kayakers is from Crantock between them. Beach are crowded in Summer
hazardous, Beach Car Park (SW788608), accessed
particularly through the village of Crantock. This gets very Re Crantock The Gannel is a long Creek to the south of
in summer. crowded in the summer and it is a long carry At high tide, particularly Newquay and can be seen on the
(over 200m) from the car park (particularly if you springs there are strong tidal approach road from the south. It dries out
are unable to park at the seaward end) to the flows in and out of the Gannel to a small shallow stream at low tide.
Gannel. – surges with the sets on a
big swell. With Regard to a take out point in
There is a small car park (SW807608)half way Newquay;
up the Gannell and could be a useful access if With regard to all paddling Stuart Fisher in “Inshore Britain” suggests:
you were prepared to come and go or just from Newquay, the size and “A small beach to the west of Towan Head
explore the gannel on the high tide. frequency of the waves is the at SW800627 has limited parking and
limiting factor, check gives a possible landing point if conditions
There is access to South Fistral Beach(Life conditions before going there: permit.” (note that this is on the exposed
Guards in summer) from Esplanade Road http://www.fistrallive.com/
(SW797617)(see right hand column). Access Also be aware – particularly Atlantic side of Towan Head and parking is
to the north end of Fistral(Life Guards in at low tide that the waves are unlikely to be readily available in the summer –
summer) from the Fistral Beach Car Park always bigger than they seem but is a possible collection point)
(801623). Very popular in the summer. Note on the web cam, worth double
that it is a long carry down the beach at low checking with the seven Be wary of Towan Head in a big swell. The
tide stones wave buoy Cribbar breaks there – on banks with the
http://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/stat potential to crest a rougue swell up to 2nm
With regard to Newquay Harbour, although ion_page.php?station=62107 out to the North West.
there are some car parks in the vicinity the
author has not found a safe convenient means Newquay becomes extremely busy in the
of access (the steps on the West harbour-side summer. Consider going very early in the
are Very slippery at low tide). morning if this is necessary.

Provided you get the tide right, Porth

Towan Beach(Life Guards in summer) is Beach has, in the author's opinion the
accessible from a small car park (SW808607) at most convenient access in this area, swell
the bottom of Beach Road – which fills very permitting.
quickly. Facing North East Towan Beach gets
less swell than others and is the safest beach on It is advisable to consult the lifeguard
this part of the North Coast. It is also an easy before launching from one of the crowded
carry, but will become very crowded in the Newquay beaches with regard to the
summer. safest place to launch.
Tolcarne and Great Western Beaches(Life
Guards in summer) are accessible, but down
steep roads cut into the cliffs to which there is no
vehicular access, making any carry very hard
work, and there are no convenient car parks.
Lusty Glaze Beach has similar access problems
to Tolcarne & Great Western, as well as being
private.
If you get the tide right, i.e. high tide, Porth
Beach on the northern boundary of Newquay
(SW 843628 - Alexandra Road, St Columb
Minor) gives good access as there is a car park
above to the landward side of Alexandra Road.
Otherwise it is one of the longest beaches in
Cornwall at low tide.

Location, Access and Egress Degree of difficulty & effect Other factors
Description of conditions
There is are two car parks near the beach at Although the author has paddled to
Newquay to Watergate Bay(Life Guards in summer) – on As with all of the North seaward of the approaches to the Camel
Padstow each side of the B3276 as it U turns hard to miss Cornwall Coast, what you and also the upper reaches of the estuary,
A mixture of (SW842648). At high tide the carry is short. can achieve safely in this the lower reaches have not, as yet
wild section is dependent on been paddled.
Atlantic For Mawgan Porth Beach,(Life Guards in swell and sea state, and
cliffs and summer) (SW850672) The car park is at also once past on Trevose The cliffs from Watergate Bay to Park
beaches Trenance on the south side of the bay near the Head, on the strength and Head are spectacular and beautiful,
plus a river. At high tide the carry is not too bad and the state of the tides. Reference particularly Bedruthan Steps, and apart
grand stream may give some assistance. to a tidal atlas is from Park Head and Mawgan Porth to
estuary. recommended for the Bedruthan Steps, bordered by narrow
Due to the Camel estuary and

likelihood Although it is possible to land at Pentire Steps approaches. beaches at low spring tides.
of swell and and Bedruthan Steps, access is not Sheer exposed coastline With regard to Mawgan Porth; at times
strong tidal recommended due to the long carry up the steep with no easy landing from there can be a fair bit of water in the River
flows, this cliff paths. 1km south of Park Head to Menathy which flows into the south side of
is an area Porthcothan. the beach. Although this can be of
for Porthcothan(Life Guards in summer) is assistance in launching, one needs to be
experienced another of those very long beaches, rather like The author has experienced wary of the strong rips produced in
paddlers. Porth Beach in Newquay. There is a car park on Porthcothan at low tide on combination with sea/swell. This beach
the east side of the B3276 near the beach a big swell. It has strong has a reputation for dangerous
(SW859719) cross currents and rips in currents.
Treyaron Bay is dominated by a large caravan those conditions. Mawgan Porth web cam (updated
park and unless you are camped there, there is hourly)
not any realistic access by car to the beach Conditions at Harlyn Bay http://www.bedruthan.com/hotel/surfca
Constantine Beach(Life Guards in summer), http://www.harlynsurfschoo m
on the other hand is a well known surfing beach l.co.uk/webcam.html
with car parks at the southern end of the beach. The Camel Estuary can be paddled legally
The one nearest the water (SW857745) fills Trevone Beach via Stepper well upstream of Wadebridge to Polbrock
quickly and the other on grass (SW861745) point to Hawkers Cove Bridge (SW014695). It is a beautiful quiet
results in quite a long carry. inside the Camel Estuary is
To the North Boobys Bay has equally good surf, mostly sheer cliffs with no
and vehicular access above the rocks which landing.
border the beach(SW857755). Strong tidal flows inside the
There are sheer cliffs round Trevose Head to Estuary 3 1/2 knots (full ebb
Trevose which although having a beach for & flow) on springs inside
landing, is dominated by a caravan park, and Stepper point.
unless you are staying there, Harlyn Bay next
door has good access and has a smaller swell in
normal conditions than Constantine and the
other West/North West facing beaches. There is
a convenient car park (SW879755), not too far
from the beach.
The sea is edged by rocks the next km to
Trevone Bay/Beach, which has equally good
access to Harlyn with car parks right by the
beach (SW891761)
Hawkers Cove (SW913775) inside the Camel
Estuary does not have car parking but has

vehicular access to the beach and could be Like the southern estuaries, paddle best done at high tide. Access can
used as a pick up point if carefully planned. the Camel Estuary mostly be found from a slipway several hundred
Harbour Cove (SW910770) also gives access dries at low tide, sand metres below the bridge at Wadebridge,
and apparently has a car park, but is further below Cant Hill and mud and above the footbridge, from Egoshale
from the sea and would necessitate a long carry above. There is a clear deep park (car park) (SW995720) at high tide
over sand dunes. channel below Rock at all only.
The Estuary at Padstow is best accessed from stages of the tide.
car parks to the north(SW919756) and
Location, south(SW920753) of the inner harbour. The Degree of difficulty & effect The Padstow slipways, particularly the
Description latter (by the fish quay) is the best bet being of conditions north one are used by the busy ferry to
larger with a slipway to the north. Once north of Port Gaverne Rock. Time your entry accordingly. The
Daymer Bay There is a Car Park (SW928758) to the North this coast is very exposed harbourmaster has the right to charge
to Bude East of Rock which gives access to the beach to the swell. The following you for access to the water from
Once out of below. Like all the others in the area it will fill webcam at Polzeath gives a Padstow.
the Camel quickly in the summer. good indication of Other factors
Estuary, Access and Egress prevailing conditions.
particularly http://www.annscottagesurf There is little opportunity to land and
past Daymer Bay (Life Guards in summer) has a .co.uk/surfcast.aspx no access from Polzeath to Port Quinn
Tintagel reputation as a safe beach, not particularly
this is a exposed to the swell. There is a car park at All of the previous notes on Although there are small beaches on
spectacular (SW929777) near the beach – its a long way the difficulties of exposed which to land between Port Gaverne
if somewhat to the water at low tide, and there will be North Western facing and Trebarwith Strand this would be
monolithic strong currents in the channel. coasts apply to this section dependent on paddler ability, sea/swell,
coastline Polzeath (Life Guards in summer) is one of too. and rock distribution below the wave
with little the better known surf beaches on the north Although there are breaking line.
indentation, coast. There are car parks at (SW933789) and extremely high cliffs
very high (SW935795). between Boscastle and Trebarwith Strand is most sheltered in
cliffs in There is a small car park in Port Quinn at Cambeak, there are some a Westerly swell at its southern end.
places and (SW971805), but little opportunities for beaches below on which to
few landing vehicular access in Port Issac and land such as “Little Strand” Tintagel Castle looks best from the sea
places. Portgaverne (although the latter could make a – spectacular.
pick up point where the road skirts the shingle
beach). The entrance to Boscastle is easily
Trebarwith Strand has two car parks up the missed. The harbour dries at low tide.
valley from which it is approached (SW053865)
(SW054865)
There is no vehicular access to Tintagel but

For there is a sheltered place (beach) to land and below Cambeak. There is a large colony of seals to the
Experienced explore to the north east of the outcrop The rocks above Cambeak north of Boscastle, at the aptly named
paddlers in (SW051890). become much sharper, “Seals Hole” (SW106926)
groups. Parking for Boscastle is in the village itself – too particularly North of Bude
far really to carry boats, but it would be possible where they constitute a “Cambeak”SW(127967) dominates the
Above Bude to arrange a pick up as the road does go to the major hazard, to both boats whole of the Coastline, and is worth
-not harbour (SW095915) and the paddler too. viewing for the amazing shapes of the
detailed Crackington Haven is a deep beach, and a folded rock.
long walk to the sea at low tide but there is a car Although the coast between
park just above the beach (SW142968) Crackington Haven and The beach below Bude Harbour is quite
Widemouth Bay is backed sheltered in all but the biggest swells
Widemouth Bay is a popular surfing beach, by beaches north of Dizzard or a sea from the North or NorthWest. If
where there are gaps in the rocks referred to in Point, these are at the back in doubt follow the inside of the sea
the next column. There are car parks at of rocks, and thus would wall.
(SW199023). only offer a safe landing on
There is a car park above (SW205067), the a low swell preferably at The reader is referred to Mark
beach below Bude Harbour with the lock. high tide. Rainsley's guide “South West Sea
To be added at some point in the future when kayaking” Presda Press 2008 Chapter
paddled by the author 41