2 CORFU PANORAMA English_1

Scheria, Koryfo, Corfu.

Three names, three different aspects of the single,
incessant course of Corfu over the centuries.

Corfu of the myths, the Venetian Renaissance,
the British greatness, the emerald olive groves, the blue seas.

Corfu of the tourist tide, Corfu of modern Greece and modern Europe,
benevolent fate, always in the forefront of history.

This album “Corfu Panorama”

(Corfu, Paxoi, Antipaxos, Mathraki, Othoni, Ereikoussa)

a collective effort and diligence of Chris Antipas
aims at highlighting the profile of the island of Corfu,
as it was shaped over the centuries.

The incomparable beauty of the landscape of Corfu,
its glorious past and its diverse present of the island
compose the uniqueness of Corfu.

Our ambition is that the reading of this album will motivate you
to visit the island and experience all these
excitements that it can so generously offer you.

Map: Kostas Papageorgiou - Nikos Gazetas

20 Corfu 50

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QUEEN OF Antipaxos HISTORICAL OVERVIEW
THE IONIAN SEA Although Corfu was a “Bone
Lagoons, lakes, waterfalls, Mathraki of contention”, barbarians or
rivers, forests, mountains, civilized conquerors could not
islets. And whatever nature Othoni alter the Greek identity of the
“didn’t have time to do” is Corfiots.
complemented by human Ereikoussa
architecture.
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MONUMENTS and FORTS BLAZONS
OLD PHOTOS Ancient temples, castles, The great spiritual, artistic,
History is not only written by towers, moat, Roman baths, business and other celebrities
historians. It is also written cave with Paleolithic finings, seal with their blazons their
by photographers. Byzantine buildings and passage from Corfu.
And photographers have a lot churches adorn the island
to “tell” us about the island. of Phaeakes. 146 184

276 242 Page Page

Page Page MUSEUMS CHURCHES and
Painters, sculptors, craftsmen MONASTERIES
STATUES CULTURAL EVENTS of ceramics, engravers and all The Corfiots built at their own
Many worthy sons, and The happy and extroverted kinds of artists have been expense and personal work
many foreigners who loved character of the Corfiots has working for centuries and churches with excellent
and created works of art shaped the way they celebrate. nowadays their work is decoration and artistic bell
on the island. Solemn at the religious events, exhibited. towers.
Today we can get to know and open to the feast.
them by their statues. 256

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PAINTING - SCULPTURE -
ENGRAVING
Cultures and artists made an
“appointment in Corfu” and
created new trends influenced
by the Western way of thinking.

292 396

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OLD TOWN ACHILLEIO
Here the past meets the The palace that concealed
present. The story “speaks” the pain of Sissy,
in every corner, every the empress of Austria and
square, every street. was later “sealed” and by
And reminds you the soul Kaiser Wilhelm II.
of the Corfiots.

440 488

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NORTH-EAST CORFU NORTH-WEST CORFU
The Kapodistrias Museum, The “Canal of love”, the sunset
the Venetian shipyards, of Ai-Giorgi, the “Fortress of
the Gallery, the Roman castle, Angels”, Paleokastritsa, the
the old mansions: place where Nausicaa found
are only a small part of what Odysseus.
you can see here.

552 586

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SOUTH-WEST CORFU SOUTH-EAST CORFU
The throne of Kaiser, the bell The river resembling Central
tower made of chipped stone, Europe, the passage of the
the “pasaentza” joining the at- Emperor, the olive aged over
tached houses, the embrasures, 2,500 years, the birthplace of
the ruined monastery. Kapodistrias, the Sea Museum.

636 678 696

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PAXOI and ANTIPAXOS DIAPONTIAN ISLANDS BUILDINGS - “LANDMARKS”
Small islands of great beauty. The “guards of Greece”, the The houses not only satisfy the
Love nest of Poseidon and western edge of Corfu with need for housing, but they also
Amphitrite, the hidden beaches the beauty, the greenery and satisfy the need of the architect
of the Ionian Sea expanded in tranquility proving that... for creation.
a few square meters. paradise still exists. That’s why masterpieces
were made.
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726
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COLORS and
FRAGRANCES AMUSEMENT and SPORTS
Flowers “speak” in Corfu. Sports at the sea, the seabed,
With their colors, smells, the mountain and... in the air.
combinations of shades and In Corfu you will find sports
they are everywhere. that are unknown to the rest of
Greece.

738 758

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TASTES... of CORFU SUNSETS
Painters and sculptors are The sun not only gives life.
not the only artists. It also gives beauty.
Cooks are too. And the sunset in Corfu
And their “works of art”go is beautiful because it is
down in history and different every single day.
become traditional recipes.

Lagoons Apart from the ecological interest, the Korission Lagoon has an a

The Eurasian otter is a small animal which lives on the banks
of rivers and lakes, in clear water. It is one of the rarest and
most endangered mammals.

It is an indication that the water is clear and it is protected
in all countries where it lives. Fishes, amphibians, reptiles,
invertebrates, birds and small mammals are its food.

In Corfu you can find the famous flamingos, too. There are
more than 500 of them with white, black and pink colours
on their feathers, known as flamingos, and they make every
lagoon special.

They love tranquility, so if someone wants to see them, they
have to be absolutely quiet. Flamingos stay in the shallow
waters of lagoons for about four months.

Korission Lagoon

The Korission Lagoon is the largest lagoon and the most
important wetland of the island. It is located in the southern
part of the island, near Argyrades. A narrow strip of earth
separates it from the Ionian Sea and creates two separate
sand beaches, Halikounas and Issos.

This place is protected by the Natura Treaty and it covers an
area of 6.000 acres and, apart from the Lake of Korission, it
also includes the coast, the forest of Cedars and a large
number of dunes.

This place attracts 126 kinds of birds, such us cormorant,
widgeons, egrets, flamingos, ducks and thousands of
butterflies, too.
The lagoon is a very important place not only ecologically,
but also archeologically.

A mandible of a hippopotamus and small pieces of bones
were found here, as well as a stone artifact in Paliavlakos
where the lagoon and the sea meet.

Alykes Lagoon

The Alykes Lagoon has been known since the 16th century
and it was named after the Alykes (salines) which existed
there until 1988.
It is a peninsula of about 200 acres.
Thousands of flamingos come to the ecosystem of Alykes
twice a year, every spring and autumn, to rest before their

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archaeological interest too.

CORFU PANORAMA 23

The name of the Island

Drepanon, Makris, Scheria, Kassopaia, Argos or Keravna are
just some of the names of Corfu in the distant past.

Drepanon, named after its long, sickle-like shape or after
«drepani», the weapon with which Saturn killed his father,
Ouranos.

The name Scheria, according to mythology, comes from the
goddess Demeter. The goddess begged Neptune to stop the
inundations of the river which was located on the opposite
shore and threatened to turn the island into mudflats.

The name Kerkyra (Corfu) derives also from the Greek
mythology. The beauty of the nymph kerkyra or Korkyras in
Doric, the daughter of the river Asopos, dazzled Neptune,
who kidnapped her and took her to the island. Phaeakas
was the fruit of their union, founder of the Phaeakes. In the
Odyssey, Homer mentions the island of Phaeakes -which was
believed it was Corfu- as the last station of Odysseus before
Ithaca.

During the Byzantine period the island was called Koryfo
(peak), named after its two-peaked acropolis, that’s how the
Latin name Corfu was born, by which Kerkyra is internation-
ally known.

The mythology handed over to the modern Corfiots and the
emblem of the city. The “Apidalos Naphs” (a ship without
steering oars) is still the symbol of the maritime craftsman-
ship of the Phaeakes.

Roman period

(229 BC - 337 AD)

In 229 BC, Corfu is forced to seek the protection of the Roman
Empire. Rome grants full autonomy and privileges to the
locals, in exchange for the use of the Corfiots’ ships and the
harbors of the island as a station between Italy and the
Eastern Mediterranean Sea. The period of this peaceful
coexistence with the Romans lasted for approximately five
centuries. During this period, Corfu embraces Christianity.

During the Roman occupation, several major personalities
visit Corfu, such as including Cicero, Plinius, Suetonius, and
several emperors, such as Vespasian, Antoninus Pius,
Septimius Severus and Nero.

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A gravure of the Old Fortress and the Acropolis - Honri Lemen (1699)

CORFU PANORAMA 53

Old Fortress There are various buildings in the interior of
the fort, including a jail constructed in 1786
The Old Fortress (Fortezza or Agios Nikolaos Fortress) is by the Venetians, the military chapel, two
built on a rocky peninsula with two characteristic peaks on barracks constructed by the British around
the eastern edge of the city, from which it is separated by an 1850 and a military hospital which is now a
artificial moat (contra-fossa). This particular location is ideal music school.
as a defensive option, since it allows easy access to maritime
space and full control over the neighboring coasts. The church of Agios Georgios is a project of
the British in 1840, which 20 years later was
History converted into a Catholic Church and was
decorated with icons from the church of St.
The site was fortified for the first time after the 6th century Spyridon.
when it obtained its first inhabitants, probably survivors
of previous disasters. The fortification of the fortress lasted
about fifteen centuries.

During this period, three historical phases stand out:
The Byzantine period, during which the eastern hill (Castello
Vecchio) was fortified, the early Venetian period, when the
peninsula was turned into an island and the western hill
(Castello Nuovo) was fortified, and the Late Venetian period,
when the fortifications were completed and received their
present form.

During the 16th century, the Venetians strengthened the
fortifications and the subsequent construction of moats
around the fort. They grinded the surface of the rocks to
prevent possible attempts of climbing by enemies.

During this phase, the buildings in front of the fort were
demolished and the imposing square of “Spianada” was built.

Till the 17th century, the gradual restoration of the city inside
the fortress with the district (borgo) was completed, which
evolved into the newer and encircled by the wall city of
Corfu.

Structural, Architectural, Fortification elements

Over the centuries, the fortress underwent several trans-
formations, so little remained in its original form.
The statue in honor of Marshal Schulenburg (made by the
Venetians because the Constable helped the Corfiots to
repulse the Turks) has now been transferred in front of the
arched entrance of the fortress.
From there, through a gallery, a corridor leads to the center
of the acropolis.

Another corridor, on the left, leads to the northern rampart
of the fort.

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CORFU PANORAMA 95

OLD PHOTOS

Corfu doesn’t enchant only the visitor.
It also enchants the camera lens.
Not only with its landscapes and monuments.
The daily life of the Corfiots in earlier times
is also one of the features captured by
the fans of the island.
Their professional activities,
habits and customs were recorded
in old black and white photos.

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1903 - Georgios Theotokis Square (“Sarocco”).

CORFU PANORAMA 105

Archaeological Museum We can also observe copper laminas of the 6th and 5th
century BC, as well as bronze statuettes of women and
The Archaeological Museum of Corfu hosts the findings the goddess Venus.
from various periods excavated occasionally on the island,
some of which are of great archeological and artistic value. The interesting collection of the Museum includes
valuable jewels.
The building of the Archaeological Museum was built in the
1960s. It is spread over two floors with a courtyard on the One can also observe some of the terracotta statuettes
ground floor and a balcony on the south and east side of the of Artemis, which were found in large quantities in the
first floor. small temple of Artemis at Kanoni in Corfu city.

The most representative and impressive exhibit of the There is also a coin exhibit and several busts and
museum is the Gorgon Pediment. It is estimated that it was funerary steles.
built in 585 BC and adorned the western side of the great
Doric temple of Artemis and it is considered to be the oldest
preserved stone pediment.

The pediment extends in an entire room of the museum and
depicts the Gorgon, which according to mythology, anyone
who looked at her turned into stone. Her face is frightening
with monstrous features, while snakes are tied on the locks
of her hair and her waist. On her left and right stand her two
children, Chrysaor and Pegasus.

The representation is accompanied by two mythical animals,
the lion-panthers, symbols of the forces of nature, with a
lion’s head and a panther’s body. On the two corners of the
pediment, scenes from the War of Titans complement the
composition.
According to reports, the pediment was brightly colored.

In another room of the museum is exhibited the left part of a
limestone pediment from the area of Figaretto.

of Dionysus and a teenager lying in bed.
There is a table in front of them and a resting lion under it.

The Lion of Menecrates is another impressive exhibit created
in the 7th century BC. It is believed that the lion was placed
on the top of the monument of Menecrates.

Many important burial artifacts are from the ancient cemetery
of Garitsa and the area of Mon Repo, where the temples of
Hera and Apollo are located.

The ruins of ancient Corfu, Chersoupoli, might have been
there. As a confirmation of the economic prosperity of the
island, we can admire the silver currency of Corfu, with the
illustration of a cow suckling her baby.
We can also observe copper laminas of the 6th and 5th cenWe

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Limestone pediment with a representation of a Dionysian symposium. God Dionysos and a teenager.

CORFU PANORAMA 153

The Architecture of Temples A church’s window of Byzantine style.

Discovering Corfu, we are impressed by the many churches,
about 800, which are found both in the city and in the
countryside of Corfu.

A possible explanation of the large number of churches is,
on the one hand, the freedom of religious beliefs established
by the Venetians and, on the other hand, the fact that most
of them belonged to guilds of professionals or wealthy
families able to afford the expenses of their construction and
maintenance.

Τhe first temples of Corfu were not parish, as we know them
today, but corporate. In other words, people of the same
occupation undertook the construction and maintenance
of a temple.

The vast majority of the churches on the island were built
during the mid-16th century until the early 18th century.
The oldest church of the city, the Byzantine church of
Saints Jason and Sosipatros, was built in the 11th century.

The architectural style that prevails in the churches of the
city is the Basilica with the wooden roof and one or, more
rarely, three aisles (narthexes). Their belfries are usually
towering with Venetian elements. There are also simpler
constructions with perforated walls closing up and with bells
hanging from their openings.

The interior of the temples consists of three areas.
The sanctuary, separated from the nave with a wooden
iconostasis, the main temple with the flat roof, the “Ourania”,
adorned with hagiographies in embossed golden Baroque
frames, and the balcony.

The impressive compositions in most “Ouranies” in the
temples of Corfu are inspired by the Venetian art and are
characteristic specimens of the Ionian iconography.
The interior of the church is often covered with purple or
blue upholstery and adorned with portable hanging icons.

The icons in the churches of Corfu belong to the post-
Byzantine period and are mainly works of Cretan painters,
Michael Damaskinos, Emmanuel Tzane, Konstantinos
Kontarinis and of local artists using the same style.

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The “Ourania” with the famous oil paintings in Saint Spyridon.

CORFU PANORAMA 189

Easter The pitchers are thrown on Holy Saturday to scare the

Good Friday

One of the most picturesque Epitaphs on the island is the
Epitaph of Saint George, the church inside the Old Fortress.

When all the Epitaphs have come out from the temples, little
girls hand out flowers to the people. The official procession
is done by the Epitaph of the Metropolis, where all the
Philharmonic bands of the island take part in.

The procession of the Epitaph of Saint Spyridon with the
sacred relics of the Saint takes place in the morning of the
Holy Saturday. This peculiar custom derives from the period
of the Venetian occupation, when the procession of the
Epitaph was forbidden in the evening of Good Friday.

Holy Saturday

The breaking of pitchers is one of the most characteristic
Corfiot customs. In the morning of Holy Saturday, the time of
the first Resurrection and when the phrase “Anasta o Theos”
(The Christ has risen) is heard in the churches, the Corfiots
throw from their balconies pitchers full of water. It is believed
that the evil spirits are scared of the din of the pitchers and
won’t come close to the houses of the island.

The bands are playing the cheery anthem “Don’t be afraid
Grecians” in the streets and the cheerleaders are following
them dancing. From this sound composition derives the phrase
“Egine Anasta o Kyrios” (A mess of chaos and celebrations).

The custom of “Mastelos” revives on Holy Saturday. In the
old days, the porters of Corfu, the “Piniadori” placed a mastelo
(long barrel) in a central part of the city adorned with myrtles
and filled with water. Afterwards, they were asking passers-by
to throw coins in the barrel making a wish and when they
had gathered enough coins, they chased someone and
threw him into the barrel, who had the privilege to collect
the money.

On the same night, at the Resurrection in Ano Platia,
the Metropolitan of Corfu and the other official persons
stand on the podium of the musical pavilion and chant Easter
Hymns and the Philharmonic bands are playing marches.

On every house’s window lit candles are placed and along
with the candles of the worshippers the whole city is enlight-
ened causing awe and solemnity.

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evil spirits. The “Anasta o Kyrios” has a double meaning here.

CORFU PANORAMA 247

Painting - Sculpture -Engraving The litany of Saint Spyridon in
Esplanade (Spianada) in Corfu.
The Heptanese School is the first Greek artistic movement Gravure (1821)
with clear Western European influences, which appeared in
the Ionian Islands in the mid-17th century.

The Ionian Islands from the 17th to the 19th century were
under the Venetian, French and English occupation.

The relative freedom the residents enjoyed, their economic
well-being and their cultural relations with the nearby Italy
resulted in the creation of the Ionian Islands as the place
where the Greek painting left the Byzantine tradition and
turned towards the West.

The creation of the Heptanese School contributed in the
relocation of many Cretan painters in the Ionian Islands
when Crete passed from the Venetian rule to the Ottoman.
Among the major painters of the so called Cretan-Zante
Academy of the 16th and 17th century are Michael Damaskinos,
Dimitris and George Moschos, Manolis and Konstantinos
Tzanes and Stefanos Tsagkarolos.

The shift toward the Western art was manifested in the end
of the 17th century, with the abandonment of traditional
Byzantine forms.

The paintings, influenced mainly by the Italian Baroque and
the Flemish painting, began to acquire depth, i.e. giving the
sense of the third dimension of space, to become more
natural and acquire increasingly more cosmic themes.

In addition, the Ionians painters, instead of egg, they began
using oil as a color binder, and instead of a plank they began
using a canvas.

The first samples of the Western-style Heptanese School
appeared on the decorations of the ceilings of churches,
known as “Ouranies” or “sofita”.

The pioneer of this change was Panagiotis Doxaras
(1662-1723). He encouraged a naturalistic representation
of figures, and introduced bold innovations marking the
departure from the forms and values of Byzantine art.

The main painters

Emmanuel Tzanes “Mpounialis” (1610-1690) was a Greek
painter of the Renaissance. His works are displayed at the
church of St Jason and Sosipatros, in Panagia of Xenon, the
Byzantine Museum, etc.

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CORFU PANORAMA 259

The Union on the 21st of May 1864

CORFU: The “Apidalos Nafs” (a ship without paddles)
is still the symbol of the naval virtuosity of the Phaeakes.
With such capable sailors, the ship did not need a paddle.

PAXI: The Trident of Poseidon is the symbol of Paxi, LEFKADA: Pegasus, the horse of Greek mythology,
which were formed when Poseidon threw it at Corfu with the warrior, a remnant of the Corinthian disembark

and a part of the island was detached. on the island, is its symbol.

KEFALLINIA: Cephalous, who arrived at the island ITHACA: The first resident of the island was Ithacos,
as a refugee from Athens or from the Greek tribe a descendant of Zeus, who came from Corfu

of Kefallinon or Kefallanon, is its symbol. and gave his name to the island and became its emblem.

ZAKYNTHOS: According to mythology, Zakynthos KYTHIRA: Aphrodite was born here and she travelled
was born in Phrygia and was the first resident of the island, to Cyprus on a shell, where she emerged from the sea.

saved it from the snakes and became its emblem. This picture is the emblem of Tsirigo.

Old Town Esplanade (Spianada), the Moat and the Old Fort.

Nature has been generous to Corfu and gave her her infinite
beauty. But people also respected these gifts and their
creations were adapted to a perfect degree with these
beauties.

A simple stroll in the area persuades even the most
demanding visitor that Nature and tradition are “blended”
perfectly here.

Campiello

Campiello is the oldest settlement in Corfu. It was created
during the Anjou rule in about 1267-1386, when the
overpopulation of the city and the pressures of the Catholics
forced many residents to spread out and around the city.
And, therefore, Xopoli was created - today’s Old Town.
The first Sephardim Jews arrived during that period, who
were expelled from Spain and settled in Corfu, in Ovriovouni.

The typical image of the square is composed by the church,
the mansions, upscale residences and sometimes the well,
which is actually the mouth of a cistern.

In the background it can be discerned the famous “Arch of
Kokkinis”, a picturesque arched passage, the “Kantouni of
Bizis” (alley) etc.

Campiello is of global interest and is enlisted in the World
Heritage Sites of Unesco. The narrow alleys, kantounia,
usually end up in unanticipated small squares after which
the region is named. (Campiello in Italian means small
square). Clotheslines with spread out laundries are hanging
from facing balconies, which are separated by such short
distance that the neighbors could easily exchange hand-
shakes from their... porch!

The mansions (and not only them) are famous for their
architecture. Μetzalounes (arches) create very beautiful
shapes above the doors. Batidoura (the knockers on the
door for the visitor) on the front doors have special, strange
shapes.

“Piteria” (pots) add colors. Tsantsaminia (Jasmines) in
kantounia are flooding the area with their scent.
The narrow and shadowy kanizeles (the alleys) and the
rambling, also narrow streets complement the breathtaking
image of the Old Town.

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Ο πεζόδρομος στα Μουράγια και στο βάθος τα Ανάκτορα. 295

CORFU PANORAMA

Town Hall The once “Arcade of the Nobles” which served as a theater, and

A typical example of the Venetian architecture in Corfu, the
Town Hall located at the Town Hall square, the social center
during the Venetian era.

The building, the formerly famous Arcade of the Nobles
was built in stages between 1661 and 1693, to be used as
a club of the Venetian fleet officers and a lounge arcade
(Loggia) of the city’s nobility.

In 1717, the building was converted into a theater and was
named “San Giacomo Theatre” after the name of the
Catholic Church at the same square. The church of St. James
was built in 1632 and operated as the Catholic metropolis.

The “San Giacomo Theatre” was one of the first European
theaters where opera performances were staged, it was
closely linked with the principles of the Ionian and Greek
theater and created the theatrical reputation of Corfu.
Since 1733 several melodrama performances were staged.

The Corfiots loved the theater so much that, according to
tradition, they did not only watch sole performances but also
the rehearsals of the theatrical companies. When in 1903 a
new theater was built in Corfu, the building was converted
into the Town Hall, by adding a floor.

The building, of Renaissance style, is made of carved stone
Sinion by an unknown architect. Its exterior was decorated
with arches and baroque sculptures.

At its east side is the bust of Francesco Morosini with four
children (who symbolize his virtues).

The curtain of the theater which was an excellent artwork
was crafted by Giovanni Bouzato, director of the Academy
of Fine Arts of Venice or, according to others, by Napoleon
Gkenovezi.

It was adorned by representations from the Odyssey and
Ulysses on the island of the Phaeakes, namely Corfu.

The curtain was saved from the destruction of the theater in
1943 and today has been transferred at the new Municipal
Theatre of Corfu, like Portantina, a gilded carriage with velvet
seat, which was the transportation mean of the prima donna
of each performance from the hotel to the theater.

334

today is the Town Hall.

CORFU PANORAMA 335

Old Fortress

One of the most impressive fortifications of the European
area, the Old Fortress, is the most striking feature of the city
that dominates as a towering rocky two-peaked end.

The geographical position of Corfu frequently made it a
target for raiders, which enforced its fortification. Around
550 AD the Corfiots, abandoning Chersoupolis, later known
as Paleopolis, fled in a small, safe peninsula in front of the
present city and built the Fortress.

Due to the two peaks of the rocks, the city was named
“Korifo”, a name which has been preserved nowadays in
many foreign languages (Corfu, Corfou).

The fortification of the Fortress was completed consecutively
by the Byzantines, the Despots of Epirus and the Anjou, the
Venetians, however, were those who formed it focusing on
the separation of the small peninsula of the Old Fortress
from the rest of the island with the opening of the trench.
Moreover, they expanded the free space in front of the fort,
the Esplanade.

The works were completed in 1568, giving the fortress its
final shape and the equipment that made it impregnable.
After the fall of the Most Serene Republic of Venice in 1717,
the Old Fort served as a military center of the existing
administration.

The English conquerors made several modifications by
building the stone building of the Infantry Barracks, the
military hospital in the Acropolis and the Church of Saint
George, which operated at first as an Anglican church.
When the Union of Corfu with the rest of Greece was decided,
the major European powers demanded the demolition of the
fortifications on the islet Vido, the city walls and parts of the
New Fortress.

The dynamic intervention of the Corfiots saved the Old Fortress,
which in 1943 protected Corfu from the German bombings.

The structure of the Old Fortress

The walls of the Fortress have three different levels: the
highest level includes the two rocks and the space between
them. The middle encloses the largest part of the fortress.
The lower, which was built later, surrounds only the
Kaposidero Cape.

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Utilitarian spaces for the needs of life in the Old Fortress.

CORFU PANORAMA 345

New Fortress The “Fortress of Saint Mark” enlightened.

The New Fortress, the «Fort of Saint Markus» is located in
the northwest edge of the city and was built by the
Venetians in 1576, shortly after the second Turkish siege.

The growing population and the continuous expansion of
Corfu combined with the territorial claims of the enemies
enforced the new fortifications.

In the defense strategy there should be counted and the
surroundings, as the city expanded to the west. The second
siege in 1537 by the Turks left no room for postponements.

In 1576, the Venetians sent to Corfu the architect Francis Viteli
in order to oversee the fortifications.

They started the construction of the new fortress on the hill
of Agios Markos which expanded to the south with walls
and bastions reaching till the sea at Garitsa. Corfu is now
surrounded all by walls, and, therefore, was named by the
locals Kastropoli.

For the construction of the New Fortress, completed in
1645, and the extension of the city walls it was necessary to
demolish about 2,500 houses and several old churches.

Viteli ordered the fortification of the hill of Agios Markus with
another fortress to protect the surrounding area.

The New Fortress was smaller than the Old and extended on
two levels. The walls of the New Fortress were surrounded by
dry moat and ramparts were built to strengthen the defense
of the city.

On the east side of the low level that protected the port,
there was a small bastion which connected the fortress
with the city walls from where the part of the fortress called
Punta Perpetua. Inside the bastion there is a maze of arched
chambers, galleries, ventilation shafts, stairs and ramps.

Just above that is the bastion “Kalogeros” and the fortifications
of «Korakofolia». The bastion of “Skarponas” strengthen the
defense of the second level and is the point at which the
most ferocious battles with the Turks took place during the
siege of 1716.

Between Skarponas and Sarantaris bastion was Porta Stopa
al Tenedos at which ended the burrow of the People’s Market
which was used by the commander of the Fortress, in case of
emergency, to communicate with the external defense.

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CORFU PANORAMA 359

Old Palaces of The Old Palaces of Saints Michael and George,
Saints Michael and George which were built by Thomas Maitland,
are the most important monument of the British rule.
It is located on the north side of the Esplanade square and
one of the most impressive sights of Corfu. The building was
designed by the English Engineer Colonel George Whitemore
and built during 1819-1823, during the administration of the
English Commissioner, Thomas Maitland.

The palace originally housed the Ionian Senate, while it was
used as a residence by the Maitland himself. Then it hosted
the Order of Saint Michael and Saint George, founded in
1818 and was named after the saints. For nearly fifty years
(1864-1913) it was used by the Greek royal family as
ceremonies and banquet halls, and is nowadays housing
the Asian Art Museum and the Municipal Gallery with
numerous exhibits.

The main gate was named St. George’s gate and the other
Saint Michael’s Gate. Both are located on the square.
The names of the saints were engraved above these gates.
On the pediment of the palace are carved the coats of arms
of the seven islands. In the middle is the English coat of arms.

It is undoubtedly the most important monument of the
British rule and one of the first neoclassical buildings in
Greece. It is grand and elegant, despite its size.
It is the second largest palace in Greece after the palace of
King Otto in Athens (that is today’s Parliament).

They are made of Maltese stone and its facade is adorned by

a Doric peristyle.

The upper part of the Palace is decorated with allegorical
representations of the Ionian Islands, works of the Corfiot
sculptor Paul Prosalentis.

There we can see Corfu represented by an ancient ship
symbol, “Apidalon Nafn” (a ship without paddles).

Even more impressive is the interior of the Palace with
luxurious ballrooms, banquet and catering rooms, decorated
with marble fireplaces, chandeliers and illustrations of the
honorary decorations of Saint Michael and Saint George.

In June 1994, the renovated Palace hosted some of the
events of the Summit Meeting of the European Union.

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CORFU PANORAMA 367

Liston Light... and color give the lanterns at Liston.

The impressive complex of buildings on the west side of
Esplanade, Liston, was built between 1807 and 1814 by the
French Imperials and its buildings were townhouses.

It covers approximately two city blocks and is the work of the
French engineer Mathieu de Lesseps (father of the famous
Ferdinand Lesseps, leader of the Suez Canal), who built the
buildings on Rivoli Street in Paris, in the same architectural
style that prevailed during the Napoleonic period.

In the design and the construction of the building also
participated the Greek engineer Ioannis Parmezan.

The original aim of the French were buildings like Liston,
with arches (volta, as they are called in Corfu) and
characteristic Venetian lanterns, to get to the point where
the Ionian Academy is nowadays.

But they did not manage to fulfil their plans, since the island
was occupied by the British.

Originally the building had a ground floor and one floor was
used as a barracks by the French. Downstairs were the
residences of soldiers and on the first floor the officers’.
Later, the remaining floors and its largest part was turned
into luxury hotels, such as “Bella Venezia”. In their rooms
there were hosted illustrious figures such as Constantine
Cavafy and Dionysus Solomos.

According to an old misconception, the name “Liston” came
from the word “list”, since in the gallery of the buildings and
the front walkway could only walk those who were written in
the “Golden Bible lists of the Nobles”.

And, therefore, “Liston (plural of “list” in Greek)” was considered
correct orthographically. We now know that the Venetians
called “Liston” the paved pedestrian street destined for urban
promenade (named after Listoni which are oblong stone or
marble slabs).

In Liston everyone could then, as now, go for a walk.

Today, under the arches, we find cafes, restaurants and
outstretched tables up to the shadow of the trees in the
square.

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CORFU PANORAMA 377

Paleopolis
Basilica of Paleopolis

In the area of Paleopolis we come across the Basilica of
Paleopolis, an important early Christian monument.
Situated opposite Mon Repo, where the ancient city center
was located. It was built in the 5th AD century and it was one
of the largest basilicas of that period, five-aisled, with two
narthexes, adorned with many sculptures and mosaics.

The church was dedicated to Santa Kerkyra. The Basilica of
Paleopolis was destroyed during the raids of the 6th century
and in its place was built a smaller three-aisled, which was
also destroyed in the 11th century. In 1537, the church was
rebuilt and destroyed by the bombings of WW II.
Today the church is ruined, without its roof.

The estate of Mon Repo (Mon Repo means “my rest”), in
Paleopolis, is the largest green lung of the city with a total
extent of 240,000 m2. Within the limits of the estate were
discovered the ruins of the ancient temples of Hera and
Apollo.

Mon Repo

Mon Repo was built in 1828-31 as a holiday house of the
commissioner Lord Fred Adam. It is also a work of Whitemore.
It is a building with simple forms, large windows and a
typical application of the morphological characteristics of
the English classical tradition with the addition of Greek
elements.

After the Union, it was granted by the City to King George I,
who named it Mon Repo. It was granted back to the property
of the Municipality of Corfu, that granted for fifty years the
building of the villa to the Ministry of Culture to house the
museum of Paleopolis.

Panagia Vlacherna - Pontikonisi

The monastery of Panagia Vlacherna housed nuns until 1980.
It is located on the islet of Vlacherna linked to Corfu with a
narrow corridor.

Pontikonisi is called the “ship of Ulysses”. The legend says
that when the king of Ithaca arrived here, Neptune turned
the ship in a green rock.

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The British Commissioner Fred Adam built Mon Repo as a holiday house.

CORFU PANORAMA 385

Achilleio

Perfectly integrated in the surroundings, Achilleio is situated
just outside Gastouri, one of the most picturesque villages of
the island. Built on a hill, in neoclassical style, surrounded by
beautiful gardens full of cypresses, olives, geraniums,
bougainvillea. The view from its balconies is magnificent.

The palace

A strange sense of awe overwhelms anyone that gazes over
the imposing form of the Palace. The stunning appearance
of this stately palace takes the visitor back in history.
The main entrance, the facade of the palace, is located to
the east and formed by a prominent Doric pillar.
Two marble Centaurs are adorning the balcony on the first
floor. The patios left and right from the balcony are supported
by Corinthian columns. On the terrace on the second floor
are four bronze nymphs-lampposts. On the left side of the
building is Hermes ready to fly, wearing his sandals and
holding the caduceus.

The heavy entrance door is adorned with brass
representations. On the left Zeus is depicted hitting by
lighting the Titans, and on the right Achilles with his
charioteer on a quadriga chariot. From the entrance the
visitor enters the lobby in a Roman Type patio, of internal
courtyard. The palace is a complex of Orders with strong
Renaissance and Pompey elements.

The first room on the right had been turned by Elizabeth
into a chapel, the subsequent halls were dormitories, while
on the left was the smokehouse, the dining room, a games
room and the galley.

From the reception begins the great staircase, imitation of
the stairs of the Opera in Paris, leading to the upper floors.
The divine couple, Zeus and Hera, in body size, are based on
the railing of the fence.
On the first floor were the apartments of the Emperor Franz
Joseph and Maria Valeria, the youngest daughter of the
Imperial couple.
On the second floor were the apartments of Elisabeth.

The first artwork we encounter is the fresco “The Four
Seasons and the Hours”, on the roof of the reception hall.
A work of the Italian Gallopi, represents in an allegorical way
the changing of the seasons of the year.

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The imposing Achilleio was built with expenses of Elizabeth.

CORFU PANORAMA 399

Northeast Corfu

Focusing on the coastal road, we encounter too many
villages succeeding each other. Others are washed by the
waves, others are a bit more inside the inland and others are
mountainous. However, all have their own personality.
Let’s start the “exploration”.

First route

Alepou is a suburb connected to the city of Corfu found
in written sources as early as the 16th century, as borgo
(suburb).

In 1584 the Church of Agia Paraskevi was founded.
About its name, others claim that it originates from the grape
variety “aloupou” and others from a corruption of the name
of landowners Alipoutza (Alpuzza).
Of course, it can be named after the cunning quadruped.

And Potamos is a suburb of the city of Corfu.
It was named after the river that crosses it and is the most
important in significance and amount of water as well as a
wetland (p. 34). Its banks are joined by the Asirmatos Bridge,
an architectural work of the Venetian period. In the village
are preserved many mansions even from the 16th century.

The Church of Zoodochou Pigis and Church Barbarian with
its 35 meters’ belfry is a building of the early 16th century.
On the beach there were salt pans during the Venetian Era.

Evropouli is a small, picturesque village. In a place called
Koukouritsa lies Kapodistrias Museum - Center of
Kapodistrian Studies. It was founded in 1981 and is
donated by Maria Desylla-Kapodistria, Mayor of Corfu
(the first female Mayor in Greece) during the period
1956-1959.

It is housed in the summer residence of the family of the first
Governor of Greece and was part of the estate of his family.
The exhibits are personal items, medals, decorations and
seals with the crest and furniture of that era. In the church is
kept a bagpipe from Russia donated by Kapodistrias himself
to the church. There is also an old oil mill, built in 1777.

Next stop, Kontokali. A coastal village with shady streets
and a sandy beach. It was named after the noble Christopher
Kontokalis who participated as a Sopracomito (the Commander
of a naval ship) in the Βattle of Lepanto (1571).

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The bells in the steeple of the Church of Saint James the Persian in Old Perithia.

CORFU PANORAMA 443

Northwest Corfu

“Bounteous beauties” throughout Corfu. Of course, the same
applies and at its northwest side.
Here are some of the most known worldwide beaches. But
we will also encounter many villages that reveal us their
Byzantine history.

First route

Let’s start with Roda, one of the major tourist resorts with
the vast, white beach.
Here was an ancient Doric temple of the 5th BC century
and some of its parts are exhibited in the Archaeological
Museum of Corfu.

Next beach, Astrakeri, a small coastal settlement. During
the Venetian rule, it was a den of the pirates. It was named
after the flowers-shrubs, astrakes.

According to legend, the flower got its name from the goddess
Asterea who cried because she did not see any stars (astra)
when she looked down to earth.

Karousades were inhabited in 20 BC from the Karoucians,
namely Pontian refugees. During the Byzantine period, it was
an administrative center and developed economically.

In 1453 Theotokis family, with a strong presence in the
economic and cultural life of the island that showed many
politicians, settled here.
Their stately mansion, built in 1500, still exists.

Antiperni is a picturesque village “embraced” by dense
vegetation. It is said that its name has been preserved since
Homer who mentioned it as Antipernaia. It means “cross
over”, i.e. opposite the fortress of the city of Phaeakes.

Sidari is a tourist resort known worldwide. Here lies one of
the biggest attractions of the island: The “Canal of Love”
(Canal d ‘Amour).

It was created by rocks of soft stones rising from the sea.
The legend says that there were two young lovers who were
petrified in the sea.
Tiflos River flows into the middle of the beach. You will enjoy
the calm waters of the sea while swimming and relaxing on
the sand of this beautiful beach.
From here small boats leave for the Diapontian Islands,
Othoni, Ereikousa and Mathraki.

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A... Drastis who we admire and we are happy to see.

CORFU PANORAMA 491

Southwest Corfu

And here the greenery reaches the sea.
And here the beaches are one better than the other.
Manor houses, alleys, traditional houses, monuments,
museums adorn and the southwest side of Corfu.
Let’s take a look at all this in more detail.

Kokkini was named after Kokkínis, to whom the area was
given by the Venetians, for his participation, as governor of
a galley in the battle of Lepanto. The mansion Kokkinis, built
on a hill in the early 17th century, presents an outstanding
architectural interest, is preserved in excellent condition and
is inhabited.

Vatos is built on the mountain of Ai-Giorgis, hidden from
the sea because of the fear of pirates. Here are located two
interesting churches: Agios Nikolaos with Byzantine frescoes
of the 13th century and Agios Georgios, at the top of the hill
with frescoes of the 14th and 15th century.

Rocks covered with pine trees sloping almost vertically on
a gorgeous limpid sea, when there are no waves, is the
amazing landscape of Mirtiotissa.

It was named after the monastery of Panagia Mirtidiotissa
because her icon was found in the myrtles. The monastery is
located on a green rock at the brink of a cliff and was founded
in the 14th century. from a Christianized Turkish monk.

Glyfada beach is also very nice, popular in youth.
Tall hills with olive trees and pines are “embracing” the bay,
located at the foot of the hill of Pelekas.

Pelekas is a traditional village with its churches, narrow
streets and the “hidden” courtyards. Built on top of an
overgrown with olive trees, pine and cypress trees hill, is
best known for the Kaiser’s Observatory, or else the “Kaiser’s
Throne”, a site with panoramic views of the valley, but also
the most famous sunset of the island. The Emperor William II
used to gaze at the view from here.

Here is located the traditional Museum of Greek Costumes
and Corfiot Music. Local costumes, photographs and parts
of costumes (buckles, sashes, etc.) of the 19th century are
exhibited.

Also there is file with recordings of traditional songs, hymns
and chants related to the local tradition.

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Fine sand that stretches in a wide extent in Glyfada beach.

CORFU PANORAMA 555

Southeast Corfu Hot waters and a long beach in Moraitika.

Sandy beaches, old salt marshes, historic villages, Byzantine
and Venetian architecture and two unique natural phenomena:
An olive tree with a history of 2.500 thousands of years and
the plant Posidonia whose presence guarantees the absolute
purity of the water.
Let’s get to know and the southeastern Corfu.

Kavos is the mainly busy and tourist destination of Corfu
with intense nightlife. If you want peace and quiet, select
the surrounding villages, which are amidst olive groves.
From here depart boats for Paxi and Antipaxos.

The beach of Kavos is long and sandy with a length of 3km
with clear and shallow waters.

Lefkimmi is in a picturesque town in lowland, amidst olive
groves, vineyards and orchards. The river Chimaros flows
through the town which empties in the beach of Boukas and
in which “dοck” fishing boats. Here are the old salt marshes.
The renovated Venetian buildings were warehouses of salt.

Here are historical monasteries and churches, such as the
monastery of “Kyra of Αngels” of 1698, built by the sons of
Κapodistrias. The church of Agios Arsenios is housing the
relics of the Saint, which was for centuries the patron saint
of Corfu. The church of Agii Theodori stands out for its bell
tower.

In Rigglades you will see many old mansions. This settlement
is dated back from the Byzantine period and was named
after the Rigglis family, who used to live here.

In Melikia you can visit the church of Agios Isavros with rare
wall paintings of the 16th century.

The beach of Boukas is located at the estuary of Chimaros,
hence the name. It is a small, sandy beach, with characteristic
vegetation at the background.

Since the operation of the salt mines stopped in Alykes of
Lefkimmi, in a beautiful natural environment, the beach of
Alykes has been formed the last two decades. The sandy
beach, clear waters and beautiful surroundings make it ideal
for those seeking the tranquility of nature.

Molos is a coastal village, built in a green olive grove. The
beach of Molos has transparent, crystal-clear waters which
deepen smoothly, fine sand and pebbles.

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CORFU PANORAMA 593

“Green Jem” The port of Gaius “embraced” by land.

Such charm of nature wouldn’t let mythology untouched.
The myth says that the island is a work of the God of the sea,
Poseidon.

He flew his trident with all his strength and separated a part
of Corfu to create his love nest with the Nereid Amphitrite
and they had two children, Triton and Benthesikimi meaning
deep wave.

Etymologically the word Paxos -according to Stravonas-
derived from the Phoenician word “Paks” which defines
geometrically the shape of a trapezium.

Paxi is like a perfume: tucked in a small bottle.
But that does not diminish its value.
On the contrary, it multiplies it.
The same happens with this island.
It is small, but its beauty is far greater than its extent.
Once it was the “secret paradise” for deserted vacation.
Today it attracts many visitors, but the “green jem of the
Ionian Sea”, as it is called, has not lost anything of its magic
and no idyllic scenery nor heritage has been altered.

When talking about beautiful beaches, picturesque bays,
rugged coastline, spectacular sea caves, age-old olives,
pines, cypresses and bushes, we do not mean some of the
landscapes of Paxi. We mean any place in Paxi.

All these blend into a perfectly fitting set with the traditional
settlements, churches, chapels and dry stacks.
In the amazingly beautiful bays of Paxi numerous excursion
boats dock enjoying the idyllic nature.

Let’s get to know this tiny island better.
Its capital is Gaius. It was named after the pupil of Apostle
Paul, Gaius, one of the eighty wise men who were tasked
with the translation of the Bible.

According to tradition, he died here during a trip, after having
taught to the island the word of God. The legend says that
he is buried behind the altar of the church of Agii Apostoli.

Small, but with a strong “personality” the capital of the island.
Pastel and bold colors together, ochre in contrast with green
and indigo next to the pelagic deep blue characterize Gaius.
You will see the bust of George Anemogiannis, a captain who
was killed by the Turks at Lepanto in 1821.

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CORFU PANORAMA 639

“Beyond the Sea” Lot of sand but more serenity at the beach of Ereikoussa.

The extremity of Greece to the west are the Diapontian Islands,
three islands and several islets. Their name means that they
are “beyond the Sea”, i.e. in the open sea.

The first settlers arrived in the 16th century in Othoni.
After the Battle of Lepanto, in 1571, some islanders left their
residencies and settled here for safety. Later the settlers
expanded and to the other two islands.

Mathraki (Malthaki)

Mathraki is a green dot surrounded by a white sandy beach,
the smallest and southernmost of the Diapontian Islands
with an extent of 3.1 km2.

The two villages, Ano and Kato Mathraki are overlooking
Corfu. There are two churches, St. Nikolaos and St. Spyridon.
The port of the island is Plakes.

A cement road leading to Benatika village with the breath-
taking view.
To the north, we head toward Ano Panta and the south to
Kato Panta. Olive and cypress trees provide a dense shade.

Karavi, Lipso and Plaka are three islets which, according to
legend, are respectively a petrified pirate ship, its boat and
its anchor.

They were petrified by Saint Nikolaos when the pirates
attempted to plunder his chapel on the island of Diapolos.

On the northeast side, the beach Portelo is considered a
paradise for divers and snorkeling.

On the southern coasts you can swim in Fyki and Apidies
with the beautiful sunset. Opposite Fyki is the island Trahia
and further along we head to the old harbor, Kontraka.

From the settlement Chorio, you will reach Cape Arvanitiko,
a cove with white sand and calm waters.

Othoni (Phanos)

The largest island of the “gang” of Diapontian Islands are
Othoni.
Here the visitor can see dense vegetation, wild cypress trees
and the beautiful, clean beaches that are ideal for those
seeking a peaceful holiday.
In only 10.8 km2, the visitor can understand what does “lost
paradise” mean.

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