GRADUATION PROJECT ON PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT ( Apparels) Duration : 7 February 2023 to 7 July 2023 Submitted by: PRAGATI BANSOD IN FULFILMENT OF 4 YEAR B.VOC PROGRAMME IN SOFT MATERIAL APPLICATION Organisation: URA MAKU Mentor: Pampa Pawar J 8, Jhalana Industrial Area, Jaipur, Rajasthan 302021
URA MAKU IICD
TABLE OF CONTENTS ABOUT IICD..................................................................................................1 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT...............................................................................2 SYNOPSIS.......................................................................................................3 DECLARATION.............................................................................................4 ABOUT BRAND.............................................................................................8 ABOUT FOUNDER........................................................................................9 BRAND PHILOSOPHY..................................................................................10 ORGANISATIONAL STRUCTURE..............................................................11 DESIGN PHILOSOPHY................................................................................13 TEXTILE GALLERY......................................................................................16 PREVIOUS COLLECTIONS.........................................................................17-19 DESIGN AND PRODUCTION PROCESS....................................................20-21 MARKETING AND DISTRIBUTION...........................................................22 TARGETED CUSTOMERS...........................................................................24 COMPETITORS.............................................................................................25 BRAND POSITIONING.................................................................................26 SWOT ANALYSIS...........................................................................................27 COLLECTION 1.............................................................................................. COLLECTION 2..............................................................................................
IICD was first registered as Institute of Crafts, Jaipur on 20th April 1995 by the Registrar of Societies, Rajasthan, Jaipur under the Rajasthan Societies Registration Act 1958.On 27th April 1998, its name was changed as Indian Institute of Crafts and Design, Rajasthan, Jaipur under section 12 of the said Act. The first batch of postgraduate students was started in 1999 along with a Girls’ Hostel at Jawahar Nagar, Jaipur.The foundation of a new building was laid on 9th November 2001 and the inauguration of the new building along with the Girls Hostel took place on 30th October 2002. The first convocation was held in 2003 for the postgraduate students. the First floor of the present building was built in 2004, while the second floor of the administrative building along with the first floor of the Girls Hostel was built in 2006. The UG courses were initiated in 2005.In the initial stages, IICD’s office was functioning in the office of Rajasthan Small Scale Industries Department, Udyog Bhawan, Jaipur. Then this office shifted to a rented building in 22 Godam Area, Jaipur. On 6th August 2007, an MoU was signed between the Government of Rajasthan and Ambuja Educational Institute (AEI) for transferring the management of IICD to AEI under Public-Private Partnership (PPP) model. A new Governing Council was also constituted by the Government of Rajasthan for managing the affairs of IICD. In this Governing Council State Government nominated 5 very senior officers of the State Government as members along with 5 nominees from the AEI and 5 prominent experts in the field of Art, Crafts and Design. On March 12, 2018, Provisional Affiliation of Courses being conducted by the Indian Institute of Crafts & Design (IICD) has been granted by the Rajasthan ILD Skills University (RISU), Rajasthan. After this affiliation, IICD has launched their UG and PG degree courses. Director IICD has been appointed Dean, Product and Craft Design at the Rajasthan ILD Skills University. On 20 July, 2021, IICD was successfully approved and added to All India Survey on Higher Education (AISHE) portal of Ministry of Education ABOUT IICD 1.
This graduation project was a chance for me to explore my own interests and style which increased my confidence. I express my gratitude towards the people whose assistance and contribution helped me in the completion of my graduation project at URA MAKU. I would like to thank the Indian Institute of Craft and Design for providing this opportunity as a part of the curriculum of Soft Material Applications. I express my deepest regards to my industry mentor MANJUSHREE SAKIYA for her guidance and constructive feedback on my work. I’m also thankful to the rest of the team at URA MAKU, for their constant support at every step of my project. I would like to thank my faculty mentor, PAMPA PAWAR for her constant support and motivation throughout the sixteen weeks. I also acknowledge the managing team of URA MAKU Trust, for all the facilities and support provided to me during my graduation project. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT 2.
I Pragati Bansod, student of under Graduate Program (2019-2023) studying at Indian institute of craft and design, Jaipur. Hereby declare that this project report titled “embroidery and weaving for Ura Maku” submitted in partial fulfillment of 4 year graduation project is the original work conducted by me . The information and data given in the report is authentic to the best of my knowledge and belief. This report is not submitted to any other institute/university for award of any other degree, diploma and fellowship. Name: - Pragati Bansod Place: - Jaipur DECLARATION 4.
Graduation project is an important phase of a student’s academic career. It provides the students with an opportunity and a platform to get hand-on experience in real business situations. It gives the student a Reality check of peeping into the busy and hardworking lives of business people. This industry exposure also helps in building and comprehending the main trends of any business activity; be in the world of science, commerce, or arts. This document is an insight & a detailed description of the brand Ura Maku & the work that is done there as a part of my graduation project. This document contains research work, literary data, sketches and doodles relevant to the brand and the project respectively. A brief summary and study of the company followed by the intensive work carried out during the 16 weeks of internship. As a part of this project, interning at Ura Maku was a highly enriching and rewarding experience for me. Working with Ura Maku provided an insight into the world of handloom sector & clotting industry. Detailed know-how was gathered of how the organization is operated and the different management levels. SYNOPSIS 3.
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Ura maku is the combination of two assamese word “ura & maku”.Ura means to fly and maku defines the shuttle . So put together ura maku expresses a feeling , to fly with high dreams yet rooted in their soul. Ura maku is a sustainable brand that believes in creating timeless classic design which will have sustainable life span rather than folowing trends. The clothes and the design are crafted out of hand-woven textiles like eri, muga, mulberry silk base out of assam. Ura maku is not just a label, but a sustainable movement to rebuilt indian handloom while expressing “ timeless fashion”Ura maku is reviving local crafts from northeast and other parts of india too. URA + MAKU ABOUT BRAND 8.
FOUNDER & CREATIVE DESIGNER Manjushree Saikia hails from upper valleys of Assam, She has grown up with Assam Textiles and folk cultures. Curiosity on cultures & craft made her close to Textiles and later got introduce to fashion. After her Graduation from National Institute of Fashion Technology(NIFT) as a Textile Designer in 2016, she worked with few renowned textile companies for a year after that she worked as freelance stylist & designer. At the same time she was travelling to various craft Clusters across India. She was stunned by their skilled hands and more than that their humbleness & values made her realize the responsibility & thoughtfulness of a designer towards Indian artisans & society. The product making process is very crucial & much important as the mindfulness of humanity. Manjushree Saikia 9.
B R A N D P H I L O S O P H Y 1 2 3 4 TIMELESS SILHOUETTES 100% NATURAL HANDWOVEN FABRICS LOCAL CRAFT Not governing by the the trend rather creating timeless classic design which will have a sustainable life span. All the fabrics we use are handwoven by artisans. Reviving local crafts from north-east India and some parts of central and western India, one step at a time. Using absolutely natural fabrics and packaging. 5 STORY TELLING The journey of process, construction have story which is told by the garments and reviving old history. 10.
URA MAKU 12.
Ura Maku is headed by duo Textile & creative designer ;- MANJUSHREE SAKIYA Fashion designer ;- ABHINESH KUSHWAHA. The team further comprises of production artisans and masters' weavers. The beautiful garments of the brand are achieved by skilled weavers & embroidery artisans. The brand hires interns from time to time to provide relevant industry exposure to them . ORGANISATIONAL STRUCTURE Manju rani Kalita (Master Weaver) Manju (Embroidery Artisans) Mangu Mandloi (Embroidery Artisans) Manjushree Saikia 11.
Every collection is worked around a theme. they imagine about there muse and in turn there client is progressing with society. Once that is narrowed down, they work on the elements of design. Rhythm, embroideries are all explored, however, they try to keep them minimal. there Hakama pants, etc are tailored with a striking balance of rhythm and structure. DESIGN PHILOSOPHY The look are all about simplicity, driven by a focus on shape, texture, and proportion. Making it to a stylish, timeless & futuristic clothing line of apparel. 13.
The brand gives classis design to the clients through fabrics of high quality and long-life duration. The fabrics are self-made by brand, and some are sourced by nearby areas. All the fabric used in the previous collection are mulberry silk, Eri silk, Muga silk, cotton etc. The fabric is made and further sent for dying to achieve different hues as used by the brand. The brand is working on different techniques like crochet flat knitting etc. by using this textile. Each textile used by the brand has its own stories. These stories are what which brand wants to convey through their textiles. Textile forms a primary characteristic in Ura Maku. As it is very exciting to witness the simple fabric transforming into something unique altogether TEXTILE GALLERY 16. Muga silk is a rare and highly prized variety of silk that is native to the state of Assam in northeastern India. It is derived from the silkworm species called Antheraea Assamese's, which is found exclusively in this region. Muga silk is known for its lustrous golden hue, which sets it apart from other types of silk. The process of creating Muga silk begins with the cultivation of mulberry leaves, which serve as the primary food source for the silkworms. The silkworms, upon reaching their larval stage, spin cocoons STORY OF MUGA SILK made of a unique golden-colored silk thread. These cocoons are carefully collected and processed to extract the raw Muga silk. What makes Muga silk truly exceptional is its natural golden color, which is not achieved through dyeing or chemical treatments. It possesses a natural sheen and radiance that only enhances over time, giving it a timeless appeal. The fabric itself is known for its strength, durability, and smooth texture, making it highly sought after for luxury clothing and textiles.
STORY OF ERI SILK Eri silk, also known as Endi silk or Errandi silk, is a unique and indigenous variety of silk that originates from the state of Assam in northeastern India. It is derived from the silkworm species called Samia ricini, which feeds on leaves of castor oil plants, making it a sustainable and eco-friendly silk. One of the remarkable features of Eri silk is that it does not require the killing of silkworms during the silk extraction process. Unlike the traditional silk production method, where the silkworms are boiled alive in their cocoons, Eri silk allows the silkworms to complete their life cycle and emerge as moths. The silk fibers are then collected from the empty cocoons. Eri silk holds a significant cultural importance in Assam and is deeply intertwined with the region's traditions and rituals. It is often used to create traditional attire, such as Mekhela Chadors (a two-piece garment worn by Assamese women) and Gamosas (a traditional scarf). The fabric is also used in making handcrafted products like bags, cushion covers, and table runners, showcasing the skill and creativity of the artisans. STORY OF MULBERRY SILK Mulberry silk is a luxurious and highly prized type of silk known for its superior quality and smooth texture. It is derived from the silkworm species Bombyx mori, which is primarily fed on the leaves of mulberry trees. The silkworms produce the silk fibers as they spin their cocoons, and these fibers are then harvested to create mulberry silk. One of the distinguishing features of mulberry silk is its fine and long fibers. The individual fibers can measure up to 900 meters. Due to its exceptional quality, mulberry silk is often used in highend clothing, bedding, and luxury home textiles. In summary, mulberry silk is a superior type of silk renowned for its fine, long fibers, luxurious feel, and lustrous appearance. Its breathability, hypoallergenic nature, and moisture-wicking properties make it a popular choice for various applications, ranging from fashion to home textiles.
DESIGN 14.
are CRAFT DRIVEN: - Ura Maku has done this through continuous design innovations that are deeply rooted in India heritage. The brand collective aim is to ensure that culture histories of the globe are conserved through their constant endeavors. The brand thrives on interpreting textiles and local crafts from northeast and other parts of India in form of weaving, embroidery and varied techniques. are GLOBAL INFLUENCES: - Old-school art of India is translated into spectacular craft intensive collection with global culture and textiles. The principal of design is international in its approach yet rooted. are ECLECTIC AND INCLUSIVE: - Key strengths - design, tailored garments, exquisite detailing, quality. Their specialty lies in merging tradition with contemporize aesthetics to designs. Their products feature neutral and pastel color palettes. With minimal design aesthetics. The brand is focused and stand alongside of sustainable movement by fashion revolution. 15.
SIZE GUIDE The Ura Maku Size Guide is designed to help customers accurately determine their correct size when purchasing Ura Maku products, by providing detailed measurements and corresponding size ranges, this guide aims to assist customers in selecting the most suitable size for a comfortable and well-fitting garment.
PREVIOUS COLLECTIONS 17.
Awareness of the unseen Acceptance of transience Awareness of the unseen embraces the beauty, innovation and opportunity that comes from living with less yet better. Appreciation of hand-loom weaves that are steeped in tradition and cultural narrative, such as Eri/Muga. Aesthetics in this direction hover between truth and fantasy, past and present, and virtual and physical. Durability and technical enhancement in tailoring and minimalist sartorial approach to create distinct silhouettes. With the constant evolution of the muse, here comes the mind state rooted in an acceptance of the transience and imperfection. Colors are inspired by the raw, muted and unpredictable shades of natural dyes. Celebrating the timeless silhouettes where minimalism is full of life and attention to small handcrafted details. A sense of authenticity, craft and history. Here, less really does become more PREVIOUS COLLECTIONS 18.
Dawn to Reality Tomorrow is Timeless In the world soaked by everything and the compulsion to rise in progressive environment, “Dawn to Reality” explores timeless silhouettes and impression of handmade textiles by honoring efforts made by the artisans. PREVIOUS COLLECTIONS The look is all about simplicity, driven by a focus on shape, texture, and proportion. Making it to a stylish, timeless & futuristic clothing line of apparel. 19.
Breaking the Cocoon Walking Backward into Future PREVIOUS COLLECTIONS 19.
A list of process that happens within brand DESIGN AND PRODUCTION PROCESS 20.
SILHOUETTES Brainstorming Design finalization Textile finalization Pattern making Cutting Quality check Finish product Packaging DYEING Brainstorming Technique finalizing Color finalizing Textile finalizing Final selection EMBORIDERY (newly introduce) Motif exploration Placement exploration Final selection Final khaka Devlopment Step 1 - Reasearch Step 2 - Season Step 3 - Conceptualizations (Silhouette research / textile/color details.) Step 4- Brainstorming Step 5- Sampling WEAVING Brainstorming Textile finalization Motif exploration Placemen exploration Final exploration Devlopment 21.
MARKETING AND DISTRIBUTION The previous six years of brand establishment has allowed to open several sales channel for putting out the work in the target market. Sales are mostly driven by there website ,social media presence and press coverage. Moreover, the brand showcases its work in exhibitions and fashion shows. This helps them to outreach more coutomers. Few stock list store sand exhibitions are mentioned here with which have allowed URA MAKU to expand its sales channel. A look at diverse sale channels featuring social media influence STOCKIST Ura Maku site Canvas and weave IKKIVI Aaza Fashion edit India 22.
THE SALES CHANNEL 23.
The brand has been able to attract loyal customer's who not only purchase from the brand but also relate to their philosophies. However, the customer segment has greatly evolved over the past year. Today, Ura Maku clothing is adorned by both working and non-working class of society. The garment are ideal for a wide range of occasion and can be adorned at both professional and unprofessional occasions. The brand believes in allowing women to resonate beyond their boundaries and outstretch their cultural root wherever they go. Talking about a much-evolved time, Indian women have surely crossed cultural and societal boundaries however, certain aspects of this very society must be celebrated. Hence Ura Maku allows women to celebrate themselves and personify their inner beauty over any exterior aspect. TARGETED CUSTOMERS The Ura Maku customer is a young to middle-aged women having a taste for sophisticated and minimal clothing. They follow a contemporary way of living which further resonated through their fashion resonated through their fashion style. 24.
PRESS COVERAGE
CELEBRITY COVERAGE
COMPETITORS With an evolving brand journey, ura maku ha snot only won the hearts of th eaudience and sustained a coustomer segment for themselves but has also paved a way for fellow brands to compete in the sales market. Competitors have emerged during these 6 years of the brand. However, with an everyday quest to do better in the market, the brand has still not let loose of its values. Before we further discuss the competitors we must understand the basic aspects of this competition. Two brand ideally compete based on their design aesthetics, design philosophies, product design, usage of craft/ textile, sales range and visual presentation to the audience. Two brand also compete to draw the attention of the audience towards the desired products so that either of the two has an upper hand in terms of market presence and sales. Now, that we understand the basics of brand competition, than it will be easy to relate ura maku with fellow competition. Ura maku has been competing in the market with influential brand like Bode Bodice Pero Suket Dhir Rajesh pratap singh Nicobar Joskai Studio 25.
BRAND POSITIONING CONTEMPORARY CLASSIC VALUE LUXURY 26.
R i c h h e r i t a g e H i g h q u a l i t y f a b r i c B e s t t a i l o r e d g a r m e n t M i n i m a l i s m o f b r a n d M o r e p h y s i c a l s t o c k i e s t T e c h n o l o g y a d v a n c e m e n t P h y s i c a l s t o r e L a c k o f s k i l l e d w o r k f o r c e L a c k o f r e s o u r c e s S O W T S t r o n g c o m p e t i t o r s i n e c o m e r e n c e s e g m e n t SWOT ANALYSIS 27.
GRADUATION PROJECT BRIEF Student Name: - Pragati Bansod Semester; - 8th Specialization; - Soft material applications IICD mentor; - Pampa ma’am Brand mentor; - Manjushree Saikia Tentative Plan; - To make a collection in apparel by using techniques of NEEDLE WORK (embroidery, crochet), NATURAL DYEING and WEAVING. The collection will depict the amalgamation of traditional and contemporize style of Indian craft. Project objective; - 1. To study the organization and its signature style. 2. To understand and work on collection from concept to sample production. 3. Documentation of the learning and the work process as undertaken. Methodology; - tentative • Observing the process in the company. • Study of previous collection and market research on existing brand. • Research on theme, mood board, and color board. • Sketching of motifs and exploration of traditional crafts. • Developing samples and prototyping of the designs. INITIAL DESIGN BRIEF 29.
FEB -MAY 2023 G R A D U A T I O N P R O J E C T COMPERISING OF PROJECT BRIEF AND OVERALL COLLECTION 28.
COLLECTION 1 30.
Season - summer season Key elements - embroidered, sustainable, signature pieces Silhouette - classic yet fresh, loosely fitted . Technique - embroidery ( hand), crochet, dyeing Color scheme - pastel color Artisanal Training Project brief overview:- PROJECT BRIEF The brand visions to run forward in the fashion sphere and take necessary steps towards a prominent growth phase. With much happing in the arena of sustainability, URA MAKU find it necessary to bring forward an evolved aspect ti it. Moreover, with the completion of 6 years of the brand, we can witness an ever-evolved take on fashion through the every way. This document features two collection worked upon during the 4-month graduation project with the brand. The brief for the same has been mentioned beneath. Turn the pages to observe the design process behind this project. The brand give the me sight for my project. As the brand they wanted to do something new for brand and introduce colors to the brand. as they work with northeast artisans so they wanted to work with central India artisans. So with further discussions we they choose SARANGPUR a small town in Madhya Pradesh. my work was to train the people in dyeing, embroidery and make them the master artisan. 31.
At Ura Maku , sartorial directions have often greeted us at unusual places. We’ve often looked outside and around for creative stimulus. For the latest summer collection we are talking a walk down the memory lane to capture the mood and nostalgia of the outside surrounding. From the quite lazy afternoon, flowers in full bloom, Sunkissed landscapes. Shapes, forms, clean line have been an intrinsic part of Ura Maku aesthetics and design process. Staying true to the ethics they embarked on a creative journey. The collections is a nostalgic homage to all things summer speaks in abstract language keeping in mind its wearability factor. Sustainably sourced and produced, this line features an array of our classis designs and handwoven denims and mindful tailored shiouettes. Designs are for the consciously driven- this capsule collection is unisex and ageless. The color scheme is bright yet pastel. It features, some never seen hues in the brand. CONCEPT NOTE 32.
BRAINSTROMING 33.
Heritage, Culture and community have a significant imprint on our lives, and designers are not leaving any stones unturned to showcase this affection on their textile. the beauty of nature distinctive and magnificent have many orms and shapes to work on. COUNTRY SIDE 34.
TIMELESS JOURNEY SUMMER NOSTALGIA LANDSCAPES REFRESHING SHAPES STRUCTURE SUMMER FLOWERS 35.
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FORECAST RESERCH 37.
DESIGN PROCESS 38.