Presentation

Crinoline

The term crinoline started as a name for a type of textile made of horsehair and cotton, be-
fore being closely aligned with the petticoat. Modern audiences recognize the crinoline as
the cage crinoline or the hoop skirt (Phyllis G. Tortora, 2015), “a hoop … of wire or watch-
spring, containing a large number of circular hoops held together by fabric or tapes “ (Valerie
Cumming, 2010). Appearing first in December 1856 as being made for “the Parisian Eugénie
Jupon Skeleton Petticoat, at 6/6 to 25/- “ (C. Willett, 1992).

Figure 1. Crinoline example Figure 2. Court example The materials came from the industrial revolution
that encouraged new inventions and cheap labour.
Fabrics used for the crinoline were commonly mus-
lin or other light materials but also included silks and
taffeta (Waugh, 1991). Crispness and fullness of the
fabric were important for the crinolines’ look (Phyllis
G. Tortora, 2015). Vivid colours and fabric were also
incorporated into women’s wear (Phyllis G. Tortora,
2015). The material for the cage itself also included
several changes from whalebone to steel rings (C. Wil-
lett, 1992).

Figure 3. Coat example

The layers of underskirt is replaced by the crinoline as the crinoline was less cumbersome and lighter than
the layers before (Phyllis G. Tortora, 2015). The mechanics of the crinoline allowed it to be folded up
when needed as opposed to the unopposed fullness of the underskirts. One of the changes is the freedom
of movement it allowed women as it got lighter in weight and layers. Crinolines were quickly adopted by
“women’s rights advocates [who] encouraged dress reform” (Phyllis G. Tortora, 2015). Despite the new ease
it allowed, crinolines still prevented some ease of movement which resulted in “the contraption … (coming)
over the wearer’s head” (Ewing, 1972) if they tripped. Also adopted by the factory workers, the crinolines
wreaked havoc where “china, glass, or other breakable goods were manufactured” (Ewing, 1972). This exam-
ple showed how crinoline quickly spread to all levels of society (Andreas Einsiedel, 2000); so quickly was the
crinoline adopted that “its inventor [earned] almost a million francs in less than a month” (Ewing, 1972).

Figure 4. Comic example Figure 5. Ad example

Figure 6. Dome example Although readily adopted, crinolines had some staunch opponents such as the tex-
tile manufacturing firms, Courtaulds, who announced that the “present ugly fashion
of hoops or crinolines as it is called is, however, quite unfitted for the work of our
Factories…. We now request our hands at all Factories to leave Hoop and Crino-
line at home” (Andreas Einsiedel, 2000) and Queen Victoria who called the hoops
“indelicate [and] extravagant” (Andreas Einsiedel, 2000) until the summer heat of
1868 forced her into the garment.

Figure 7. Pyramidal example

Reigning for around 15 years, the crinoline first
appeared in 1856. The crinoline underwent sev-
eral transformations especially in terms of shape.
The general silhouette started with rounded
(dome) crinolines in the 1850s (Figure 1 and 2)
(Phyllis G. Tortora, 2015). However, the crino-
line started flattening out in the front and becom-
ing fuller in the back (pyramidal) in 1860s (Figure
3 and 4) (Phyllis G. Tortora, 2015). By 1870, the
crinoline had gradually subsided into new forms
such as the bustle/tournure (Waugh, 1991).

Figure 8. Dome under crinoline example Figure 9. Pyramidal under crinoline example

Figure 10. Illustration example

For the installation, the crinoline is in the dome style that
was popular in the first section of its’ history. The crinoline
is held up by a belt of sorts, usually a strip of fabric with met-
al accessories like hook and eyes to close the belt. For the
crinoline, the section in front of the wearer’s stomach is usu-
ally clear of rings. The layers of metal rings are held in place
by ribbon tape that captures each ring. The rings expand as
they travel further away from the waist and usually end ankle
or floor length.

References
(1850s). Crinoline. Retrieved from https://library-artstor- org.ezproxy.kpu.ca:2443/asset/SS7731421_7731421_11391570

Andreas Einsiedel, S. T. (2000). Inside Out: A Brief History of Underwear. London. Retrieved 11 17, 2018

C. Willett, P. C. (1992). The History of Underclothes. United States of America: Dover Publication Inc. Retrieved 11 17,
2018

Ewing, E. (1972). Underwear: A history. New York. Retrieved 11 18, 2018

Phyllis G. Tortora, S. B. (2015). Survey of Historic Costume (Sixth ed.). Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. Retrieved 11 15, 2018

TimeLife Inc. (2018). Under Crinoline [Image]. Retrieved from
https://artsandculture.google.com/asset/clo-euro-under-bustles-crinolines-14/RAFSac9a9nTTZw

Tortora, P., & Marcketti, S. (2015). Girl wearing crinoline [Image].

Unknown. Cage crinoline [Original work found in Victoria & Albert Museum, London].
Retrieved November 20 2018, from
https://www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com/products/berg-fashion-library/museum/victoria-albert-museum/cage-crino
line-1 (Original work created in ca. 1867)

Unknown. Court dress [Original work found in Victoria & Albert Museum, London]. Retrieved
November 20 2018, from https://www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com/products/berg-
fashion-library/museum/victoria-albert-museum/court-dress (Original work created in 1860-1865)

Unknown. Mantle [Original work found in Victoria & Albert Museum, London]. Retrieved
November 20 2018, from https://www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com/products/berg-
fashion-library/museum/victoria-albert-museum/mantle-6 (Original work created in ca.
1865)

Unknown. Woman’s Cage Crinoline [Original work found in Los Angeles County Museum of
Art (LACMA), California]. Retrieved November 18 2018, from
https://www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com/products/berg-fashion-
library/museum/los-angeles-county-museum-of-art-lacma/womans-cage-crinoline (Original work created in circa 1865)

Valerie Cumming, C. C. (2010). The Dictionary of Fashion History (Revised Edition ed.). Bloomsbury Academic. Retrieved
11 14, 2018

Victoria and Albert Museum. (1864). Corsets and Crinoline in Victorian Fashion [Image].
Retrieved from http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/c/corsets-and-crinolines-in-
victorian-fashion/

Victoria and Albert Museum. (1865). Magazine [Image]. Retrieved from
http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/c/corsets-and-crinolines-in-victorian-fashion/
 
Waugh, N. (1991). Corsets and Crinolines. New York: Theatre Arts Books. Retrieved 11 16, 2018