Rhodes Collar Packet First Draft

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Table of Contents

Welcome................................................................................................................................................. 3
Getting Started ....................................................................................................................................... 4
Rules of Training ..................................................................................................................................... 5
Building a Relationship ........................................................................................................................... 6
Dog Friendliness ..................................................................................................................................... 7
Commands........................................................................................................................................... 8-9
Homework ....................................................................................................................................... 10-18

Week One ................................................................................................................................ 10
Week Two ........................................................................................................................... 11-15
Week Three.............................................................................................................................. 16
Week Four................................................................................................................................ 17
Week Five................................................................................................................................. 18
Nutrition ............................................................................................................................................... 19
Helpful Articles ................................................................................................................................ 20-38
Dear Dog Lady ..................................................................................................................... 20-21
Living with the High Prey Drive Dog .................................................................................... 22-23
Separation Anxiety.............................................................................................................. 24-25
Training our Dog to Come When Called .............................................................................. 26-38

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Welcome to the Rhodes Collar Family!

Rhodes Collar begins with an admissions initial consultation. This is an hour and a half of
training with you and your family focused on your top three training priorities. You will feel
your pup is much more in control during this lesson and thereafter. Initial consultation is $132.94

Our day school is truly amazing and inspirational. Dogs arrive (or the school bus can pick them
up at your home) at 8 am where they begin training at the words, “Good morning!” Dogs are in
groups of 5 or fewer to each trainer. Dogs are worked on leash practicing sit, down, stay, heel,
come, don’t jump. We work in downtown Mystic, Stonington Borough, Old Mystick Village,
and other such public places so they can become accustomed to excellent behavior in real life
situations you may encounter with your pup.

The off leash work is on various safe trails for working on come when called, whistle training,
stay, be polite to others on the trail, and always maintaining the ultimate focus on our trainers
regardless of the distractions.

We also have time for agility obstacles, tricks, and studio behaviors and select these depending
on your interests and your pup’s interests in activities. We can work on specific tasks you want
us to work on as well. We will address our Rhodes Collar Way curriculum during each day (sit,
stay, down, heel, come, don’t jump), but we can weave other skills in there that are essential to
your life and lifestyle with your pup. We can train your pup, addressing their needs and yours as
a family. Day school is $69.13/day, 8am-1pm, doggie school bus available.

If you haven’t already, you can register as a new client at rhodescollar.com and once you are
registered, you can schedule our admissions initial consultation.

We have several packages and products on our website that you can access easily. Be sure to
check out Products & Prices under Services on our website.

If you have further questions do not hesitate to contact us!

Location: 11 Allen Street

Mystic, CT 06355

Phone: 860.213.0260

Email: [email protected]

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Getting Started- After your Admissions Initial Consultation

Thank you for our amazing Admissions Initial Consultation!
It was so much fun beginning your pup’s education with Rhodes Collar today. In addition to
practicing what may have been sent to you in the form of a short video clip of our work today,
please incorporate the following into your daily routines with your pup. In this packet you will
find information about Rhodes Collar, tips for how you can help your pup at home, and various
articles.

Keep in mind that training is only useful if you pick and choose how you want to live with your
pup. Consider how you want to participate in family and community activities and then apply the
training. This will help accomplish your goals, allowing you to incorporate your pup into the
lifestyle you choose.

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Five Cardinal Rules of Training

1. Your dog must sit for everything he/she wants from you at your first request. If he sits then
he gets what he wants. If he does not sit then he gets ignored.

2. Your dog must sit and stay until you go through doorways and come through only when you
call him/her through.

3. Use sounds to distract and gain attention. Remember to praise your dog for hearing the
sound.

4. Spend the last 5 minutes before you leave the house and the first 5 minutes when you arrive
home ignoring the dog. This is simply delaying the greetings. You want to have
unemotional greetings to help avoid creating separation anxiety.

5. One 30-minute down and stay generally during your dinner. See week one of your
homework sheets for directions. Remember this is an exercise NOT a punishment. Your
dog may sleep, have treats, toys, rubs, pets, or anything else except get up during the
exercise.

Prepared by Gleanna Doyle All About Dogs, LLC. No part may be used or copied without
written permission by author.

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Building a Relationship

Your Relationship with your dog will improve once he sees you as an effective guardian. This
means you provide him with proper exercise, a balanced, minimally processed, diet, and teach
him what you want him to know and how you want him to behave. Be relaxed and confident
whenever you are with him and he will listen to you and follow your instruction.

Guardians are prepared, relaxed, and confident. This energy makes a dog feel safe so guardians
can teach their dogs what they want them to know and how they want them to behave. For
example: If you know your dog is going to jump on visitors, have him on a leash and in a sit
before your visitor arrives. The leash makes it possible for you to keep your dog in position
while your visitor arrives, enters the house, and relaxes into a comfortable seat. The more
situations your dog sees you handle calmly and confidently, the more he trusts you and wants to
follow you.

Ignore your dog whenever he bumps, leans, paws, barks, whines, jumps or uses any other
annoying tactics to get you to pay attention to him. Once he has stopped, wait a minute or so and
ask him to sit. When he does, then give him the attention he was seeking because now he has
earned it and it will make him a more confident dog too.

Teach your dog please and thank you. Ask your dog to sit (at your first request), before you pet,
praise, feed, walk, or play with him.

Teach some basics such as here (come to you), close (walk close to you without pulling), sit,
down, stand, stay, and well done or away (means well done go free). Use these basics whenever
you are with your dog. If he needs to go outside, tell him, “Sit” and “Stay” at the door while you
go through first. Once you are through the door call him, through, “Here.” Another way to use
his basics is on walks. Tell him, “Close” to get started on a nice calm walk. During the walk
randomly tell him, “Stop,” “Sit,” or “Down,” or add in “Stay.” This will make the walk a little
more exciting and remember to tell him, “Well done,” or “Away,” when he has arrived at an
acceptable spot to potty.

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Dog Friendliness

You’re walking down the street with your dog. I am walking toward you. Reverse direction just
before your dog reacts to my dog and walk at a snail’s pace until my dog and I catch up and are
walking beside you and your dog. We’ll walk together a few paces until my dog and I pass you
and yours. Reverse direction and finish your walk. Control your dog with your hands not your
voice. We’ll have a few nice words as we pass each other probably about how nice the weather
is and words of admiration for each other’s dogs. If you are really nervous or anxious recite a
nursery rhyme, poem, or song to become calm.
The point of the exercise is to create a happy image in both your dog’s and your mind concerning
the approach and greeting of other dogs. It is also essential that your dog trusts your ability to be
an effective leader so that when you meet other dogs he can rely on you to set the mood for the
greeting. If you are nervous he will believe you need to be protected. If you are confident and
happy he will know that he can relax and enjoy the moment as well.

The length of time this takes depends on many variables such as how long the bad image has
been established in your dog’s and you mind, how quickly you can learn to relax, and how
quickly your dog can learn to trust in your leadership abilities.

You will need to do this exercise daily for at least six weeks and probably longer, walking with
as many other dogs as possible during your exercise. As you gain confidence ask others that you
know with dogs to walk with you and your dog. If you don’t know anybody who has a dog, call
some dog walkers in the phone book or ask at your Veterinarian’s office.

The object is for your dog to view these people and their dogs as being on the same team as you
and your dog. This happens when you avoid the confrontation and walk side by side, feeling
happy and calm.
Don’t forget to smile – body language is your dog’s first language and the one he is most
comfortable using.

Prepared by Gleanna Doyle Rhodes Collar, LLC. No part may be used or copied without written
permission by author.

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Types of Commands & How to Command Them

Sit – arch your index finger and say calmly dog’s name and sit. Do not repeat your English – you
may repeat your body language and you may lure if needed.

Down – Palm faces the floor and lowers dramatically but slowly toward the ground as you say
slowly and clammy dog’s name and doooooooooowwwwwwwwnnnnnn.

Sit up – both index fingers arch and go up and back over the dog’s ears as though lifting and
arching the dog’s mouth and head backwards to lift his body.

Stand – hand extends from the mouth and stays at the mouth level with the palm facing the dog.
You may have to slide your hand underneath his belly.

Heel - Dog on left as though in a box that moves at the same pace as your leg and as though it
was attached to your leg. This way as you move the box moves and so does the dog. If done
correctly the dog will maintain the same distance from you at all times. Praise when he is in
place – “Goooooooood heeeeeeel.”

Come – Crouch showing your left side, call, “Dog’s name, come!” As the dog looks and
possibly begins to come be sure to praise! Laugh, giggle, smile, and show happiness! Pay like
crazy when he arrives!

No Jump – Several ways:
1. Ignore until he stops then praise for a sit.
2. Ask to sit just before he reaches you.
3. Lure into a sit just before he reaches you.
4. Soft knee – meaning he lands on it only – does not mean to push your knee into him.
5. Ignore dogs for the first five minutes when you get home.
6. Have a basket of cookies outside your door and a note for visitors “Dog in training take
cookie, make dog sit for treat.”

We’ll go through these in our lessons.

Head Down - Point with index finger and have treat hidden in same hand. Other hand is gently
on back of head to feel when resistance stops and chin is flat to ground –pay and praise.

Foot – Lift treat over opposite shoulder of foot you will shake. As he shifts the foot raises – you
catch it and praise him, “Good foot!”

Sit Back Up- Place both hands side by side, one hand apart. Arch forefingers and curl other
fingers. Bring your hands forward and upward while saying excitedly, “Sit!” Go in and pay him
so that he is paid for sitting up and not for moving from the sit position. Release.

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On your Feet- Take your left foot and swing it out towards his back right leg. Tap the top of his
knee with your toe, say “On your feet”. As he stands up praise him and pay him. Be sure to keep
your food hand at his head level. If it is higher he will think you are signaling him to sit again.

Feet Up – “Put your feet up.” Take both forefingers, side by side and point them in the direction
of the place that you want the dog’s feet to go. The first couple of times you may need to lead
him into position, but he will get it quickly. Pay him only for the ones he does on his own and
well.

Other Tips:

Spend 90% of your time praising al of the behaviors you like – when they’re just lying around –
playing, sleeping, whatever – just praise. Can be calm too – “Niiiiiice
Spaaaaaarrrrrkkkkkkyyyyyy.”

Try to yell well – ever if possible.

Dogs need to stay and wait for you to go through doors first – then you call them out.

There is more, but this is good for your first week.

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Rhodes Collar, LLC
11 Allen Street

Mystic, CT 06355
860-213-0260

www.rhodescollar.com

Homework for Week One

Sit Ten times daily for three to five days. Your dog should Sit on verbal
or visual cue alone by the week’s end.

Down Ten times daily for five to seven days. Your dog should down on
verbal or visual cue alone by the week’s end,

Sit-Stay Get your dog to Sit-Stay for 30 seconds without moving for 30 seconds. Increase to

one minute. This should not take more than one week. If it does please let us know

so your teacher can assist you.

Down-Stay Do the Down-Stay exercise for thirty minutes. It is not important at this point that

your puppy or dog stay the whole thirty minutes, only that you do the exercise for

thirty minutes. Preferably do this during dinner or another practical time.

1. Leash your puppy or dog.

2. Place your puppy or dog on a dog bed or 'cushiony' surface next to your feet by

the dinner table.

3. Hold onto or sit on the part of the leash that you would hold if you were walking

your dog.

4. Say, "Stay" in a quiet soothing, yet firm voice.

5. Each time your puppy or dog gets up simply replace him/her and say "Stay."

(The less said the clearer and easier for your puppy or dog to understand).

6. Do this for the full thirty minute duration, remaining calm, never getting upset or

frustrated.

7. Keep a log of how many times your puppy or dog gets up from the down-stay

position and watch your progress during the next six weeks.

8. Expect the first two weeks to be tough, but after that you should see a lovely

down-stay that your puppy or dog can show off when guests come for dinner.

Remember patience is a key in your relationships and this is no exception.

 Read the Owners Guide to Better Behavior in Dogs by William E. Campbell

 Read Animal Healing by Martin Goldstein, D.V.M.

 View Sirius Puppy Training Video or Training with Dunbar Adult Training Video

“We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence therefore is not an act, but a habit.” Aristotle

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Sit Rhodes Collar, LLC
Down 11 Allen Street
Sit-Stay
Down-Stay Mystic, CT 06355
Heel 860-213-0260
Loose-Lead
Walk www.rhodescollar.com

Come/Here Homework for Week Two

Hide & Seek If your dog doesn’t Sit on verbal /visual cue alone, repeat week one.
If your dog doesn’t Down on verbal/visual cue alone, repeat week One.
Use same method as week one, increase to two, then three minutes.
Same as week one.
Praise “Good heel,” when your dog is in the heel box. Place and say,
“Heel,” when your dog is not in the heel box. Pay every time your dog is in
the box and looks up at you.
Walk along, call your dog, and crouch as your dog starts towards you. Praise
and keep moving. Never stop moving. If your dog doesn’t look, squeeze a
squeaky (or other sound) in your pocket, to get his attention, then praise and
keep moving.
Heel is boring so integrate the Loose -Lead Walk allowing your dog time to
sniff, walk tall, pee and poop, none of which are allowed on Heel.
Movement, laughter, smiles, and giggles make you interesting. Say, “Sparky,
here!” Crouch, laugh, smile, giggle, lean back, and hold a treat or toy out so he
can easily see it as he approaches. Bring the treat/toy close to your body and
right above his nose, just like in the sit position, and quietly say, “Good here.”
He’ll naturally be interested due to your hand position, so quietly say, “Good
here.” Let him taste the treat, but do not fully release it until you reach in and
touch his collar with your free hand, then enthusiastically say “Good here,
well done, go play!” Repeat a few times. The real reward and secret to a
successful recall is turning him back out to play each time.

 Practice three times a session, three times daily, with a three hour break
between sessions. Add distractions and around other dogs as you both are
ready.

Your dog will love this! Hide behind a chair, for example and then call your
dog to find you. Laugh, smile, praise, pay.

“We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence therefore is not an act, but a habit.” Aristotle

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Rhodes Collar Home School Homework- Week Two Continued…

Counter Surfer
 Clear all counters for the next six weeks to break the cycle of stealing.
 Practice with set-ups – you place something to tempt your dog and just as he is on his
way toward the article, you squeak a toy, clap your hands twice abruptly, or make some
other distracting sound. Now that you have your dog’s attention, ask him to participate in
an alternative behavior and praise him for doing so.
 Leash on method – leash the dog, just as he is about to jump up give the leash a jerk
toward the floor to bring all four feet back onto the floor. Say, “Sit,” as you do this.
When he sits, do not acknowledge him. Walk him out of the sit immediately and ask for
the sit again. If he sits this time praise him calmly, throw a toy, or give a treat. Never
reward a behavior that is preceded by a jump.

Housebreaking
 Limit the amount of space and freedom your dog is permitted by using a crate or a
confined area in your home. This confined area is best to have linoleum or other easily
cleaned floors for this space.
 Watch her carefully.
 When you think she may need to go potty, praise her for whatever she did that gave you
that indication. Ask her, “Want to go potty good girl?” (Use whatever word you choose,
do your business, get busy, go potty, etc).
 Go to the door and have her sit-stay while you go through the door, then call her to you,
praise. (If she has to go too badly or is a very young pup – bypass this until she is better
bladder control).
 Go to her special place in the yard where she goes potty and repeat, “Go potty, go potty,”
until she does her business.
 If she does all of her business outside, she is permitted limited freedom in the house.
 Limited freedom means under your strict supervision. Keep her closed in each and every
room with you as you move about the house.
 When you can’t watch her, put her in her crate or small confined area. The size of the
crate or area should be just enough for her to stand up and turn around during the critical
stages of housebreaking.
 Once she can handle the amount of space in her crate or confined area without accidents
for two to three weeks, you can gradually increase her space.
 Repeat this process until she is capable of being out of her crate and into a confined area.
If she has been in a confined area and you have been able to give her an entire room
without accidents for two to three weeks, you may be able to begin adding rooms.
Ultimately she should be capable of living with free run of the house accident free.
 Treat any accidents with Nature’s Miracle or comparable enzyme product.
 Don’t let your dog see you clean up accidents.
 You can correct her only if you catch her in the act. Make a sound that grabs her
attention, take her outside and speak calmly to relax her muscles and encourage her to
finish outside. If you don’t catch her in the act, clean it (Nature’s Miracle or other similar
product) without letting her see you.

P a g e | 13

Housebreaking Regressions

 If your dog has an accident after a good long stretch of being accident free, simply return
to step one again.

 You should only need to repeat this process for a few days in each stage in order to
remind her of her good outside habits.

P a g e | 14

Rhodes Collar Home School Homework- Week Two Continued…

Inside Behaviors

Orienting- Make a quick sound. Watch your dog. Praise excitedly when he hears it. Repeat a
few times. Practice three brief sessions daily. Take a break two to three hours between sessions.
He will orient toward the sound just like you orient toward the phone when it rings.

NOW or HERE - Start orienting. Call him to you once he orients toward you. Use “now!” or
“here!” Say it confidence and meaning. “Sparky, HERE!” or “Sparky, NOW! Crouch
immediately. Show him your left side. Lean away from him a little, smile, be friendly, and
playful. Praise him, “Good here!” Good here!” “Good here!” and continue this praise until he
gets to you. Throw him a party of praise when he gets to you by scratching his chest and throat,
laughing, giggling, smiling, and in every way showing him that he did the right thing). Tell him,
“All done!” (He needs to know when he is finished with every behavior). Repeat a few times and
practice three times daily. Take a break for two to three hours between sessions.

Relax, don’t follow me - Sit quietly. Praise him calm, quiet, verbal praise, “Gooooooood boy,”
when he sits calmly. Wait three seconds. Get up and walk toward the door normally. Clap your
hands abruptly and return to your seat promptly if he reacts to you leaving. Repeat once he is
settled and calm. Repeat until he remains calm while you go to the door, touch the handle, and
return to your seat. Praise him quietly after three seconds. Do not overdo the physical praise.
Open the door when he is ready, eventually opening it completely. Don’t be in a hurry. The
process is fun!

Doorbell Game - Phase one
Leave your dog home. Walk to your car, open and close the door. Walk back up to your house.
Disguise your step pattern. Knock on the door. Let your dog respond. Open the door and
let your dog see that it is just you. Repeat this until his reaction to the door changes
satisfactorily. Practice three times daily. Take a break for two to three hours between sessions.

Be Exciting - Keep his special toys out of his sight and reach. Give them to him at crunch times.
 when you have company
 when you are busy
 when you can’t give him your full attention

Peak your dog physically and mentally at least once daily.

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Reading List
The New Better Behavior in Dogs by William E. Campbell
The Body Language and Emotion of Dogs by Myrna Milani DVM
Dogs a Startling New Understanding of Canine Origin Behavior and Evolution by Raymond and
Lorna Coppinger
These will lead you through what and who dogs are, what our relationship with them is and is
not, and how to make it work better.
Available at Dogwise.com

Written and prepared by Gleanna Doyle and All About Dogs, LLC. Any material herein may not
be reprinted, reproduced, in any way without written permission

Sit-Stay P a g e | 16
Down-Stay
Rhodes Collar, LLC
Heel 11 Allen Street
Come/Here
Loose-Lead Walk Mystic, CT 06355
860-213-0260

www.rhodescollar.com

Homework for Week Three

Your goal for this week is five minutes.

Your goal for this week is thirty minutes again. By now you
should be having enjoyable dinner meals with your dog or puppy
lying nicely on his/her dog bed next to or near the table.

Try alternating on and off leash in safe fenced areas and at home.

Try to get friends with dogs to practice with you and in new
environments--make sure that they are safe and fenced in.

Keep up the great work! This needs to be perfected this week.
Do not hesitate to ask for help if you need it.

This week we begin to work with our dogs in a safe, but active area such as Mystic Village or
downtown Mystic. Anticipate getting out with your dog three times weekly for distraction
training. BE SURE THAT THE COLLAR IS TIGHT ENOUGH SO THAT HE/SHE
WILL NOT SLIP IT IF HE/SHE BECOMES EXCITED OR NERVOUS.

“We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence therefore is not an act, but a habit.” Aristotle

P a g e | 17

Rhodes Collar, LLC
11 Allen Street

Mystic, CT 06355
860-213-0260

www.rhodescollar.com

Homework for Week Four

Read through weeks one, two and three. Practice happily for your dog’s final class after which
you’ll have a fun tail wagging time at your doggie graduation class! Remember, this is FUN. It is
about the relationship between you and your dog. If you have any questions I (Gleanna Doyle)
am always accessible to my clients, please do not hesitate to call or e-mail me.

Graduation class is just like all of the other classes that you have previously attended, the main
difference being that there will be treats for the people and not just for the dogs. This is also a
great time to register for Intermediate Obedience, Agility (obstacles), Tricks, Canine Good
Citizen, Flyball, Frisbee or other fun classes.

Good Luck and Have Fun!

“We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence therefore is not an act, but a habit.” Aristotle

P a g e | 18

Rhodes Collar, LLC
11 Allen Street

Mystic, CT 06355
860-213-0260

www.rhodescollar.com

Homework Five- Tips to Remember

You are a SUPER DOG TEACHER and CAPTAIN of your team!
You don’t need to repeat yourself.
You don’t need to praise unless your dog has followed your instructions properly.
You don’t need to over praise by over fondling or talking too much to your dog.
You don’t need to yell at your dog.

You are so good at keeping your voice calm and soothing, and your body posture neutral.

You praise when your dog has successfully completed the command.

You praise when your dog stops doing a bad thing.

You practice the down-stay during your meals.
You sit-stay your dog to go in and out the door, then tell your dog “Well done, here/come.”

You keep the leash loose at all times on walks unless you need to correct your dog. You apply an
appropriate correction for the type of collar or harness you use.
You sit-stay your dog for meals and tell him, “Well done,” only after he has looked into your
eyes for permission.

“We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence therefore is not an act, but a habit.” Aristotle

P a g e | 19

Feeding your Companion Animals

Food choices are not a matter or right or wrong, black or white. By understanding what is ideal
and what is not, we can make intelligent decisions which at least take us closer to the ideal. The
chart below outlines how our feeding choices for our pets (carnivores) can affect their health.
The chance for optimal health increases if your dog’s diet is listed further up on the chart. You
will likely be in the middle ranges most of the time. That is fine, as long as you always press
toward the ideal.

A. Hunted, raw prey (not realistic in modern society) Ideal Healthy
▲
B. Organic or natural (minimally processed) when possible, fresh, raw |
meats, bones, organ meat, with small amounts of fresh vegetables |
and fruits. Include a well-rounded vitamin-mineral/enzyme mix, |
probiotics, and omega 3&6 essential fatty acids (EFA’s). (Feed 70% |
meat/bone, 10 % organ meat and 20% vegetables). |
|
C. Organic or natural (minimally processed) when possible, fresh |
cooked meats, calcium, organ meat, with small amounts of fresh |
vegetables and fruits. Include a vitamin/mineral/enzyme mix, |
probiotics, and omega 3&6 essential fatty acids (EFA’s). |
|
D. Super premium (organic if possible) commercial foods, preferably |
canned or at least partially canned, plus the supplements named |
above and augmented with some fresh, raw, organic or natural when |
possible foods. Some examples include: Natural Planet Organics, |
Organics by Natural, Newman’s Own Organic, Flint River Ranch, |
Innova, Wysong, Solid Gold, Canidae, California Natural. |
|
E. As in D, but adding fresh, organic where possible cooked foods. |
|
F. Super Premium foods WITHOUT fresh or raw foods added. |
|
G. As in D and E, but using premium commercial foods like Science |
Diet, IAMS, Eukaneuba, Purina Pro Plan etc. |
|
H. Premium commercial foods alone. |
|
I. Commercial foods like Purina Chow, Alpo, Old Roy, Kibbles and |
Bits, Friskies, etc. |
|
No food. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
▼

Worst-Unhealthy

P a g e | 20

Note: This issue of Dear Dog Lady is part two of a three part series in puppy training.

Part II

The first step in any training program is to build a relationship with play. One of the most
important lessons you and your puppy can learn is to retrieve, the game of sharing. Your puppy
will put all kinds of things in his mouth that you’ll need to get back safely without competing
with him for the item. His willingness to give these things up to you is an act of sharing.
Retrieve also helps to teach your pup to come when called.

Select a toy your puppy is fond of. Pick a time that he is full of puppy zip and tease him with the
toy. Toss the toy a foot or so away. Let him chase it. Don’t move, but watch where he goes to
lie down and chew it. Quietly and slowly go over to him without making eye contact or giving
him any other attention. Sit beside him, tell him in a gentle tone, “Good boy” and stroke him.
Don’t touch the toy. As soon as he releases the toy, take it, return to your starting point, tease
him with it, and toss it for him again. Watch him chase it and take it to his chosen place to lie
down and chew it. Go to him quietly, repeating the whole process as many times as you can
before his interest dwindles. Take a break. Prior to teaching the next step, repeat this game a
few more times allowing at least a two hour break between sessions.

Next, start out the same way, but once you toss the toy and while your pup chases after it, go and
sit quietly in his favorite chewing place. Now he’ll come to you. Gently talk to him and stroke
him like before. Repeat this game for three sessions giving him breaks in between each session.

Next, start out the same way, but once you toss the toy and while he chases after it, place
yourself a couple of feet from his favorite place. He’ll likely come to you, but if he goes to his
old spot, don’t fret. After a few minutes, tap the floor to encourage him to come closer to you.
Once he gets to you, praise him, “Good pup!” Stroke him, smile and giggle or laugh with him.
Only after the verbal and physical praise will you take the toy to toss it again for him. Repeat
several times. Take a break. After three or four more sessions he should come to you wherever
you are in the room. Gradually, you‘ll be able to move about the house. Now use multiple toys.
Toss one. When he returns to you and following your verbal and physical praise, show him
another toy. He’ll be excited and drop the first toy. Toss the second toy and pick up the first.
Repeat as long as you can, but always stop a little before he tires of the game.

Now that you have taught your puppy to share through the game of retrieve, you have a safe
method to get items away from him that he shouldn’t put in his mouth. Simply call him to you
and offer him an alternate toy to fetch. Distraction, the better side of competition reengages your
pup in a game of retrieve which you have control over. Tug of war, a competition between you
and your pup over an object is the opposite of sharing. This kind of competition could teach
your pup to swallow things in order not to give them up to you. Swallowing items could result in
injury to your pup. A clever dog owner will lay the foundation of training with play and gain the
benefits of a good relationship based in trust.

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This exercise is adapted from the work and materials of John Rogerson, world renowned dog
trainer and behaviorist.

Tips of the month:

Rock salt can irritate your pet’s paws and make them sick when they lick and clean themselves.
Wash, rinse, and wipe pet’s feet whenever they have come into contact with rock salt. Carry a
face cloth or fleece rag (cut up a fleece throw into lots of little rags that twill fit in your pocket)
to wipe your dog’s feet periodically during winter walks.

Use Pet Safe Ice Melt, recommend it to others. It works great!

Keep your pet fit. A daily walk with your dog might do you both good. Play sessions provide
exercise and a fun exchange for you and your [pet].

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Living with the high prey drive dog

Some dogs just aren't couch potatoes

Picture in your mind an English field line Labrador Retriever enthusiastically returning his
master's downed duck from a marsh in a Canadian province. Or conjure up a young Border
Collie intensely working sheep on a farm in the American west, insuring that the farmer's flock
make it safely back to the corral at the end of the day. These dogs serve well the purpose for
which it was bred, and it can retire at night to the company of its master and a relaxed evening at
home.

Now picture the same two dogs in different scenes. Take the Lab from the side of his hunting
companion and the Border Collie from the farm and move both to the suburbs. Now the dogs live
with owners who work long hours in an office and have kids to haul to soccer, band practice, and
school functions. Chances are neither the owners nor the dogs will have many relaxed evenings
at home. Instead, the combination of owners' long hours, hectic schedule, and lack of quality
time for the dog mixed with the dogs' ever-increasing high energy level will result in a long list
of behavior problems that could ultimately frustrate the owner and send the dog searching for a
new place to call home.

Ownership of a high energy or high drive dog has its benefits and drawbacks. Having a dog that
is always ready to work can be very enjoyable for an active person who spends time with the dog
and finds ways to release the energy. Avid duck hunters may use a Labrador Retriever to bring
back downed birds just as they have done for hundreds of years. High drive European-bred
working dogs such as German Shepherds, Rottweilers, and Belgian Malinois are brought into the
US by eager schutzhund competitors, police departments, and working dog trainers because their
hardiness, sound temperaments, physical structure, and high drives make them suitable for the
work required. However, it's becoming increasingly common to find owners who have very little
knowledge of the requirements when owning such a dog. As a result, they are paying the price
and finding the drawbacks of owning such a dog.

All dog breeds were developed with a specific purpose in mind. The retrievers and terriers bred
for sporting and the herding and working breeds all retain levels of the inherent drives that made
them suitable for the tasks they were bred to perform. Acquiring a dog strictly for looks or image
without taking these breed characteristics into account can lead to problems.

A dog with extremely high levels of pent-up energy can become difficult to live with.
Destructive behavior occurs because the dog must vent his energy. Destructive chewing is the
most common avenue for release of trapped energy. Chewing soothes the dog's adrenal system in
much the same way a smoker's cigarette provides relaxation to its user. Digging stimulates the
dog's curiosity and helps tire the dog as well. It is not unusual to observe bursts of energy where
the dog runs in what appears to be a mad frenzy around the house, leaping over furniture,

P a g e | 23

bowling over anything standing in their path, and generally creating chaos in the process. Dogs
with too much stored energy may also bark too much, jump fences, or mouth human body parts.

Prevention is the best cure. Conscientious breeders of predictably high drive puppies carefully
screen prospective buyers to determine if they can offer the puppy a suitable lifestyle. Such
owners will have a fenced yard, ample time in their schedule to exercise the dog, the physical
ability to handle the dog properly, and sufficient knowledge of the breed and its characteristics.
Allowing a non-suitable buyer to obtain such a puppy could inevitably end in disaster. A wise
breeder will refer non-suitable buyers to pet-quality breeders where high drive dogs are not so
prevalent, discuss the possibility of a more suitable breed for the client, or discourage dog
ownership of any kind for those clients who lack the lifestyle for owning a dog.

Those individuals who acquire a high drive dog through adoption or a private party should
research the breed in the library, by talking to breeders and other owners, or by browsing the
internet. Being informed helps prevent problems.

Problem solving

There is hope for owners of high drive dogs that exhibit behavior problems. Success depends
largely on the owner, not the dog. Daily exercise such as extended walks can do wonders to calm
an energetic dog. Dogs with high drive generally also have high prey or chase instincts, so lots of
play with balls, Kong toys, Frisbees, and other active toys can use up energy. Hide and seek
games and tricks can be fun energy-releasing alternatives. Involvement in obedience classes
where the stress associated with learning will wear out even the most energetic dog is another
option. Learning to control the dog enables owners to enjoy him more.

Some training facilities also offer agility and tracking classes for those interested in harnessing
their dog's athletic skill and inherent scenting ability. Both effectively expend pent-up canine
energy and are enjoyable for dogs and their owners.

Breed clubs help owners learn about their dogs, keep in touch with others who have high drive
dogs, and find out about activities related to the breed. In addition, crate training can prevent
digging or chewing problems by keeping the dog confined when he cannot be observed.

Picture again the Labrador or Border Collie with his suburban family. The owner gets up an hour
early to take the dog on a long walk. The dog is enrolled in an obedience class where the whole
family attends and watches one member handle the dog and everyone learns how to control him.
The children play with the dog in the backyard, throwing toys to be retrieved. The dog stays in a
crate in the family room when no one is at home. Everyone is happy and content.

Now that's a picture everyone can live with!

Jeff Finlay

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Separation Anxiety

Myrna Milani, BS, DVM

Separation anxiety refers to the stress experienced by an unconfident pup separated from its adult
pack, or that experienced by an unconfident adult animal when separated from his/her pups.
Because domestication primes dogs to relate to us the way wild pups relate to adult animals, we
can see how unconfident dogs of any age can feel stressed when left alone. Similarly, if people
have unintentionally related to the dog in a manner that puts the dog in the leadership “adult”
position in their households, these animals also may become upset when separated from their
human “pups.”

Because of this, we need to understand the relationship between the dog and all members of the
household to resolve separation anxiety problems. Does the dog normally respond timidly to any
novel people or events he or she encounters in the owner’s presence? Does the owner
unwittingly put the dog in the parental role by responding to certain canine leader behaviors?

In addition to understanding how dog and owner(s) relate to each other, we need to look at
exactly what the dog does when left alone. Different dogs display different behaviors alone and
analyzing these also can help us understand what might be going through a particular animal’s
mind. Common behaviors include scratching, digging, chewing, marking with urine and/or stool,
whining, barking, vomiting, or drooling. Given all these, surely it goes without saying that any
dog who displays them in the owner’s absence is experiencing some form of stress!

How animals handle any stress associated with being alone differs greatly. For example, when
the mail arrives a confident dog might rush to the window, bark once or twice and wag his tail
until the letter carrier disappears, then go back to sleep. More introverted dogs with less
confidence may whine, drool, or scratch, lick, or chew at themselves. More extroverted
unconfident ones may bark, mark their territories with stool or urine, and/or scratch, dig, or chew
at the furnishings. Whereas the confident animal reacts minimally, the unconfident animal’s
reaction may begin when the letter carrier first enters the neighborhood and not end until he
leaves it entirely an hour later. Because of this, it comes as no surprise that more introverted
unconfident dogs may wind up with chronic medical problems while more extroverted
unconfident ones often develop chronic behavioral ones.

Even though owners of dogs who destroy furnishing often feel as if their pets are destroying
everything, most animals target specific objects or places. Dogs, who chew window or exterior
door frames, dig up carpeting around exterior doors or otherwise attack areas with access to the
outdoors communicate a desire to get out of the house. Reasons for this include:

 the dog wants to be reunited with the owner
 the dog wants to attend to something outdoors it considers a threat to its

hhhhhhterritory

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 the dog wants to escape something in the house

In the first two cases, the relationship between the owner and the dog lies at the heart of the
problem. In the third, other intimidating animals in the household or events that frighten the dog
(such as snow sliding off the roof, loud noises associated with equipment turning on and off, the
pressure changes and noise associated with storms) may trigger the response, and resolution of
the problem involves identifying these as well as any relationship issues.

Other dogs may destroy furnishings in an attempt to provide themselves with a safe haven within
the owner’s home. These animals may burrow into the deepest corners of closets, scratch at or
try to dig through closed bathroom doors or those to the owner’s bedroom. Still other dogs will
confine their chewing or marking to objects carrying intimate owner scent (such as bedding,
shoes, clothing, books, or papers) in an effort to calm themselves.

In all cases regarding separation-related negative behaviors, keeping a journal of when the
problem occurs and what it involves–including the response of any people to the dog and the
destruction–can yield valuable insights. Also, never forget that all of these behaviors result from
the dog’s fear. Accusing the dog of being jealous, spiteful, or mean does nothing to solve the
problem because it doesn’t address the cause of the problem: the dog’s relationship with the
owner and the animal’s lack of confidence. Consequently, in order to relieve the stress that’s
causing the negative behavior, we need to address those two issues first.

P a g e | 26

Training Your Dog to Come When Called
John Rogerson
Dog trainer and behaviourist

Dog training has undergone many changes over the past twenty years as we slowly move away
from the old system of confrontation to a new era of understanding. The training instructor’s
vocabulary has also changed and now includes new words and phrases that have become part of
this new wave of scientifically based training. Sadly we seem to have lost our way and many pet
owners in classes across the world are being shown techniques that no longer require them to
touch and talk to their pet dogs whilst training them.

Like many other people involved in training my own career in dogs has spanned both eras and it
goes without saying that no one would ever want to return to the old days of correction and
reward. What is of concern is that there are a growing number of instructors and behaviour
consultants who are no longer dog trainers! Back in the sixties, almost everyone involved in
instructing in dog clubs and training classes was a trainer in their own right and therefore fully
understood the principles of the exercises that they taught. Today, it is becoming increasingly
difficult to find a training instructor who fully understands how to practically apply the new
reward-based system of training.

And so to the point of this article, how do you apply reward-based training in practical
situations? To understand how it all works let's have a look at each intermediate step to
successful reward training.

Luring
This is where the reward (food or a toy) is shown to the dog and it is encouraged to follow the
lure in the same manner as a donkey following a carrot dangled in front of it! This system is
used extensively in puppy training classes in exercises like the sit, the down and in teaching the
dog to follow on a slack lead. Although it can be useful as the first stage in reward training,
luring should be dispensed with as soon as possible because it does nothing to teach the dog
about obeying commands and if the luring system is used for too long it actually reduces the
effectiveness of training sessions and can lead to frustration on the dog’s part. As a general rule
of thumb, luring should be almost dispensed with after three training sessions and phased out
completely three weeks after training has commenced, only being reintroduced sparingly if the
dog’s attention declines.

Bribing
Once again this is where the reward is offered to the dog as an inducement to carry out the
behaviour requested by the handler. Although this is a valid step toward our ultimate goal of
reward training, bribing a dog to carry out commands always results in the dog having more
control than the handler. Clever dogs soon work out that it is to their advantage to fail to respond
to a command as the handler is usually more than willing to increase the bribe. This system
therefore removes any control that the handler is ever likely to have and hands all of the control
over to the dog. Although I might have made it sound as though this is a system to avoid one
could argue that it is still better than the old compulsion system. Does it really matter that an
average pet owner has to bribe their dog in order to get it to do what they want?

P a g e | 27

Rewarding
In this system the rewards being offered are not advertised to the dog prior to requesting a
behaviour. For the satisfactory completion of a behaviour the dog is given one of the many types
of reward available to the handler. This system also utilises Thorndike’s Law of Effect
(modified by Skinner) which states "behaviour changes because of its consequences.” In
rewards based training the consequence of carrying out the requested behaviour is that a reward
is given and the consequences of failing to respond results in the reward being withheld. For this
to work effectively then the handler not only has to have a great many rewards but they must also
have good control over the way that the rewards are given.

Positive reinforcement
This is a term often used but badly misunderstood in dog training. Basically, positive
reinforcement is a mathematical term used to predict the anticipated frequency of a behaviour
occurring! For our purpose it can be described as anything which when given to the dog during,
or immediately following the occurrence of a behaviour, will increase the likelihood of that
behaviour being offered again. Confused yet? Well there is no need to worry as I still have to
find a dog who fully understands the terminology.

There are five basic types of reward that can be used in training:
* Physical praise: This includes stroking, patting, scratching, cuddling and tummy

tickling.
* Verbal praise: By using the words "good boy" “good girl” etc. It is vitally important that

the trainer is able to generate a feeling of excitement and enthusiasm when using verbal
praise which should immediately result in a wagging tail.
* Food: One of the ingredients necessary for survival which means, correctly used, this can
be a very powerful tool in reward training. Used incorrectly it can result in the handler
losing all control over the dog and can even lead to problems of aggression
* Games with toys: Playing with toys is a learned behaviour and so to use play as a reward
your dog must understand (have been taught) how to play with a toy.
* Freedom: Being allowed time to run free, sniff and feel the wind through their hair can be
a very powerful motivation for complying with the wishes of a handler. As with all of the other
rewards though, if you have little or no control over being able to apply or remove a reward then
these rewards cannot be effectively used in training.

To determine what rewards you can use in teaching your dog some simple commands/behaviours
try answering the following questions:
1. Name five things, in order of importance, that your dog would choose to play with if
he/she were given a free choice in the matter.
2. Name five foods in order of preference that your dog would like to eat if given a free
choice.
3. Of the ways to give physical praise, which I have listed above, place these in the order

that your dog enjoys them the most.
4. Which words or phrases start you dogs tail wagging happily and which words or phrases
cause an ears back, tail lowered, looking sorry for itself expression?
5. Name five places that your dog would choose to go to if a free choice was given and what

P a g e | 28

would your dog do when he arrived there?

Now remember that, in order to use these rewards in training you have to have complete control
over how they are presented and removed. So, lets try a few simple tests and see if your dog is
ready for reward training.

a) Place several pieces of your dogs favourite food in your open hand and tell your dog
not to touch them. You can use any tone of voice or facial expression as long as you
do not touch your dog. Now, without moving your hand, give your permission for the
food to be taken and eaten. Repeat three more times in quick succession. If your dog
made no attempt to take the food until told to do so and then took the food happily
and willingly then you can start to use food as a reward in training.

b) Have a tugging game with a toy and then tell your dog to let go. Do not pull the toy away
from the dog, your dog should release and stand back or sit. Again you can use any tone of voice
or facial expression but you may not touch the dog. Your dog should let go instantly and wait to
be invited to join in the game again on your invitation. Repeat three more times in quick
succession. If your dog takes hold of the toy and releases whenever you ask then you can use
this toy in training.
c) It is possible that your dog does not like to play tugging games but prefers to chase a toy. In
this case throw a toy and allow your dog to chase after it. Do not move from the position you
were in when you threw the toy. Call your dog back to you and ask your dog to drop it in your
hand. Repeat three more times in quick succession. If your dog returns and delivers the toy to
your hand each time then you can begin to use this toy in training your dog.
d) Sit on the floor and touch your dog in the way that he prefers. After a couple of minutes stop
touching your dog and terminate the interaction by using a word or phrase such as "that's
enough" and turn away from your dog. Wait for a couple of minutes and then invite your dog
back for more attention. Repeat three more times in quick succession. If you can initiate and
terminate a touching session at will then you can begin to use physical praise as part of your
reward training programme.
e) Go to one of your dogs favourite places and release your dog from the lead but indicate that
you require him/her to stay next to you for several minutes before being allowed to run free.
You are allowed to talk to your dog and give any verbal instructions but do not touch the dog in
any way. Now give your dog a 'release' word which gives your permission for it to run free.
Wait for exactly one minute and then call your dog back and attach the lead. Walk a few paces
and repeat this exercise three more times in quick succession. If your dog waits with you until
given permission to run free and then returns immediately when called then you can begin to use
freedom as a reward in training your dog.

RANDOM REWARDS OR REDUCING REWARDS?
Interestingly enough, a group of students on a recent training course that I ran were given the
following question to answer: Assuming that you have trained your dog to do a recall for food
by giving one piece of baked liver every time the dog responds to a command to come (referred
to a fixed ratio reward training), describe how you would then switch to a system of random
rewards. Every single student then described a system of only then rewarding one in three then
one in five then one in ten etc. This of course is not random reward training but reducing
rewards and simply does not work in maintaining behaviours. And so after spending weeks of
training a recall for food the handler simply throws all of this good work away by withholding

P a g e | 29

the very rewards that the dog is working for.
When we start to teach the dog a new behaviour we must pick the lowest reward that the dog will
work for and be absolutely consistent with the type of reward that we give, when it is given and
how much of it he gets (type, frequency and amount). The types of rewards available are
physical praise, verbal praise, games with various toys and different types of food. The
frequency refers to either a period of time or the number of times a behaviour is repeated. The
amount is the value of the reward to the dog, and three pieces of liver are of more value than one
piece.
When we start an exercise, we fix the type (lowest value), the frequency and the amount
(smallest amount). As the dog becomes more skilled, the first thing that we change is the type of
reward that he is given. If we start off with the very best rewards for very simple behaviours
then we have nothing better to give when the dog becomes more skilled at his job. It is also
possible that if we use very high value rewards for too long in the early stages then when we try
to change them the dog becomes frustrated and even aggressive. This is referred to as fixed
reinforcement aggression but I think that ‘temper tantrum’ is far more descriptive and accurate!
The next step is to try to change when the reward is given and also at this time we change the
amount that is given. Think of the word surprise instead of random reinforcement it is so much
easier to understand!
It then follows that the more rewards that you have at your disposal the easier it is going to be to
train your dog. If your dog will only play with one tennis ball, does not care for being touched or
stroked and is not a good eater then you will have your work cut out in trying to train using the
reward system.

By now you should be sitting on the edge of your seat wanting to know how to apply all of this
information in order to train your dog to a standard that you could only have dreamed about
before. Just to start you thinking imagine two people being involved in a dogs education. We
shall call one of them a trainer and one a handler. If the trainer is successful in teaching the dog
all of the commands and behaviours necessary for its future job and then passes it over to the
handler, what skills do you think that the handler needs to possess? Does a handler have to also
be a trainer capable of teaching the exercises in the first place? Or does the handler merely have
to know how to maintain the behaviours that were instilled by the trainer? What do you think?

Chapter two
Training the instant recall

The question was, imagine two people being involved in a dogs education. We shall call one of
them a trainer and one a handler. If the trainer is successful in teaching the dog all of the
commands and behaviours necessary for it’s future job and then passes it over to the handler,
what skills do you think that the handler needs to possess? Does a handler have to also be a
trainer capable of teaching the exercises in the first place? Or does the handler merely have to
know how to maintain the behaviours that were instilled by the trainer? What do you think?
Well I can tell you that I know many people, who could never even begin to train a dog
themselves but who, nevertheless, have beautifully trained and well behaved dogs. Their skill is
in handling a trained dog! Don’t believe me? Just go and have a look at some guide dog owners
or an Army dog handler etc etc.. Like many other trainers I have allowed other people to work

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my dogs at the top level of competition. Some have been very successful even though they could
never train a dog to that standard themselves. There are many dogs that are very successful in
competitions handled by people who would never be able to actually train a dog but fortunately
they go and take lessons from other trainers who not only train the dog but also show them how
to handle the dog in order to maintain behaviours. In training the instant recall it is better to have
both a trainer and a handler present for the first few sessions, only dispensing with the trainer
when the dog fully understands what is required. From that point on it is up to the handler to
maintain the recall.
If you have a problem with an exercise then it goes all of the way back to when you ran your first
ever training session on that exercise. That is where the first impression is formed. SO if you
have a problem getting your dog to stay down on command then go back to the first stay training
session that you carried out with that dog for that is where it started to go wrong. The same
applies to recall, retrieve, walking on a slack lead, tracking etc., etc.

I recently ran a five day training instructors course at a rescue centre and had sixteen prospective
dog class instructors who attended, each bringing their own dog with them. The first practical
training session that we did was out in an open field as I was planning to cover the recall
exercise. My opening talk was tongue in cheek as I explained that I wanted all dogs off lead by
the third day of the course. I also explained that if any dog was let off lead and chose to run off
then what did that tell the handler about the relationship between them and their dog. If the dog
chose to run off then why condemn it to a lifetime of having to live with someone that it did not
choose to be with?
A recall is merely a test of your relationship with your dog!
I also pointed out that there we were at a dog shelter that had lots of dogs that would be only too
willing to be given a chance to build a relationship with any of the handlers who had lost their
own dogs on the recall exercise! Of course I was only joking but it certainly made the audience
pay attention. In fact we did manage to teach all the dogs off lead recalls by the end of the third
day! We then went on to teach sixteen shelter dogs a recall by the end of the fifth day using all
of the principles learned on the previous days.
Using the knowledge of how to use rewards in training we can easily train a dog to return to its
handler when called. Here is a true story of how not to do it.

The handler had let her dog off lead reluctantly and then immediately started to panic as the dog
walked away from her. We were in a very large, fully fenced field and so there was little danger of
the dog getting lost. She called the dog when it was around fifteen feet away; it turned its head and
glanced at her before continuing to walk away. She then started to walk toward it, calling it by name
and adding the words “look what I’ve got,” producing a ball and throwing it up in the air as she did
so. The dog took no notice and continued to move away but now broke into a steady trot. The
handler then took out a bag of liver food treats and continued to run toward the dog calling it all of
the time. Eventually the dog stopped and allowed her to get within around twenty feet or so. She
then dropped down on one knee and called the dog again, showing it the bag of liver and then she
turned and ran away, calling it all of the time. The dog then ran past her and she stood still and
coaxed it in. The handler then gave the dog a big hunk of cooked liver! I asked her why she had
given the dog the liver and she replied “well he has to get a reward for coming to me when I call him
doesn’t he?”
This was my explanation.

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I want you to imagine that your husband is going out tonight to play cards with his friends. You
have to visit your friend later that evening to deliver something that is really important but only have
one car, and your husband is going to be using that. SO you ask him to be back by ten P.M. so that
you can use the car. It is now ten thirty and he still has not returned. Eleven P.M. arrives and still
no husband. It is now one thirty in the morning and he finally arrives at the door. When you let him
in, would you have a nice meal prepared for him and then throw your arms around him and give him
a big kiss because he has decided to come home at last? Well would you?
She replied that she would have thrown his dinner away or better still given it to the dog. She said
that she would have been in bed with her back to him and would have used some subtle body
language to imply that she was not amused. After refusing to speak to him the following morning
she said that she would really make him work hard to get back in her good books. She actually used
the word grovel a lot! She agreed that if she had prepared a nice meal and been really nice to him
she would only be encouraging him to do the same again the next time. When I asked her why the
relationship that she had with her dog was so different she was at a loss to explain it.
I asked her to release her dog again and walk off in the opposite direction with me, paying no
attention to the dog. After a short while I asked her to call the dog. The same thing happened, he
totally ignored her. We carried on walking and the dog then stopped, looked at us walking away and
stood still looking a little bemused. He finally decided to join us and as he came to her she was
about to give him a food reward. I quickly reminded her of her husband arriving home late and told
her to show him the food that he had missed by arriving late but also told her to then put the food
back into her pocket and give him none. I also asked her to be really cool and rejecting in her body
language only. The dog then jumped up at her and she turned away using the words “if you think
that you can get around me like that then you have got another think coming.” We walked away and
the dog tried really hard to please her, refusing to leave her side. Her words were “I have never seen
him grovel like this before.” It was difficult to get him to leave her far enough to attempt a recall but
finally he found a nice smell on the ground and gave her the opportunity to recall him. When she
called, he came running and I told her to pat him on the lead and tell him how nice he was. She was
told to save the liver for the more difficult recalls that would inevitably follow over the next few
days.
Of course this dog had gained complete control over the handler because rewards had been used for
far too long to bribe the dog to come when called. The dog was making the handler increase the
bribe until things had reached a point where she had nothing better to offer. All I did was to show
her how to teach her dog the consequences of his actions, knowing that this dog fully understood
what was required of him. This system only works if the dog has a good understanding of what he is
supposed to be doing. So you will need to learn to manipulate the rewards in order to teach your dog
how to come instantly whenever you call him. See if you can work out how this is going to be
achieved, you already have lots of clues.

II
I am guessing that if most readers put on their dog walking clothes, picked up the dog’s lead and stood
near the door and called the dog, it would come to them instantly. Actually it probably would not need
to be called as it would read all of the signals that meant it was time to go out for exercise. Now lets go
out of the house and watch the dog carefully. When exercising off lead the owner, still dressed in the
same dog walking clothes and with the same lead, calls the dog. This time we often see the reverse of
what happened in the house - the dog deliberately avoids the owner - but why? The answer is because

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the consequences of both recalls is very different and it is the consequences of an action that maintain
and strengthen that behaviour. Last month we also looked at how the system of bribery, using rewards,
was almost bound to fail because it gave all of the control to the dog and left the poor owner with no
control whatsoever. As with all training, the basic idea of what you require your dog to do should be
taught in a distraction free environment. Your own house serves this purpose well as there are not likely
to be many distractions that you cannot control, unlike a public park where you have no control at all
over events that are likely to take your dogs attention.
The first thing that we are going to establish is whether your dog understands how to come when called
under almost ideal conditions. There are five tests that are required and the rules are the same for each
test.

Have a clip from a lead (available from your pet shop) in your hand when you call your dog but
not the lead itself. Otherwise, your dog may think it's time for a walk!
You are only allowed to give one command if your dog does not respond then you are not
allowed to repeat the command.
You are not allowed to have any food or toys on show.
When you call your dog, you are not allowed to move in any direction but must remain
stationary.
When you call your dog you may not use any verbal praise until your dog is actually moving
toward you.
The clip that you are holding must be attached to your dog’s collar within ten seconds, after
which you can give any low value rewards that you have concealed on you.
Each test is to be repeated twice and your dog should respond within the rules above before you
go on to the next test.

Test 1
With your dog in the same room as you but not paying any attention to you at all, give his name and

your chosen command to come. He should come to you instantly and accept having the clip
attached to his collar after which he should be stroked, told how wonderful he is and maybe even
given a small, low value, food treat or toy.
If he does not come instantly or you have to break one or more of the rules to get him to come to you
and have the clip attached then you have failed the test!

Test 2
This is a repeat of test one but this time you must call your dog when he is out of your sight. To do

this you can either wait for your dog to wander out of the room that you are in or you can wander
out of the room yourself. Wait for a few minutes and then call your dog. Remember that you
cannot give any verbal praise until your dog enters the room that you are in. Repeat this test
twice and be honest with yourself if your dog passes or fails under the strict set of rules that I
have given you.

Test 3
This test repeats test two but you now have to have your dog out in the garden (as long as it is

completely enclosed) and you remain in the house. Position yourself so that you can see your
dog but he cannot see you - peeking through a gap in the kitchen curtains will do. Call your dog
using the same rules as for tests one and two.

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Test 4
You are now going to introduce a controlled distraction in your recall tests. Assuming that your dog

is friendly to people, have a friend or relative walk into the room you are in and let your dog go
and greet them. When the greeting is in progress, call your dog to you using your chosen
command. Remember that you are not allowed to repeat the command if your dog does not obey
the first time!

Test 5
Assuming that your dog is friendly to other dogs, have a friend or relative arrive in the room that you

are in with their dog on a lead. Allow your dog to go and say hello and then call him back to
you. The rules are the same as the ones you used for the previous tests.

So how did your dog fare in the tests? If your dog passed each one with flying colours then, and
only then, can you think about training an off lead recall outside of your house. If you failed any of
the tests, you have to carefully retrain your dog to come when he is called in your own home
environment before commencing your training outside. It is a sad fact that many owners expect their
dogs to return to them in the local park under all sorts of distractions when, in truth, they cannot get
the dog to come when called sitting in their own living room where there are no distractions! It is
also very wrong to condemn a dog to a lifetime of being restricted on a lead when, by investing some
time and effort, the recall exercise is so easy to achieve.
If your dog was one of the many tens of thousands that fail one or more of these tests don't despair -
Sit down and first try and think of a reason for your dog to want to come to you when you call him.
Next you must think of the consequences of him refusing to come when called. Think of ways that
you can change the consequences in order to teach the behaviour that you require.
Providing the dog has had few opportunities to practice the bad behaviour and with a skilful trainer
the dog can be trained to recall in a few minutes!

Answers next month
Training the instant recall

At last, with all of the preparation and theory behind us we can look at actually teaching a dog to
return when called. I am going to divide this recall into three sections namely:
1 Training class recall to be conducted by a training instructor in a class environment,
hopefully outside.
2 Free running recall trained in the house to begin with and then progressing to outside
3 Chasing recall to add to the basic recall for dogs that like to chase things that they are not
supposed to!

Our first recall is the one that I use exclusively when I am teaching a class because it very
quickly establishes a pattern of behaviour in the dogs mind, making it very easy for him to learn
what is required. I hate making my training complicated!
First set up a chair in one corner of the training area. Alongside the chair have any raised surface
such as a table or platform onto which you can put food treats. I never allow the handler to have
food treats on their person!
Now simply ask the handler take their dog on the lead and sit on the chair. The instant that they
sit down they should do four things in this order.

1 Talk to the dog in a reassuring way; “good boy, Clever girl” etc.

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2 Stroke the dog
3 Smile
4 Only when the dogs tail starts to wag should they then give the dog one small food

treat from the table.

After giving the treat they should then wait for around three seconds (count this for them) and
then repeat the talk, stroke, smile and treat the dog once again. Wait for a further three seconds
and then continue to repeat the talk, stroke, smile, treat procedure until ten food treats have been
given. The main aim is to get the dogs tail to wag before giving the food treat. By pairing three
secondary rewards –talk, stroke, smile, with a primary reward – food, it will probably enable us
to just about dispense with the need to use food later in the programme. This means that your
dog will end up wanting to please you rather than just carrying out a behaviour for food. Don’t
confuse live with hunger!
As soon as the ten food treats have been given the handler should stand up and walk away from
the chair a distance of around fifteen paces, taking their dog with them on the lead. It is
important that when they stand up to walk away ALL REWARDS SHOULD STOP. That means
that the handler should not speak to, look at or touch the dog and they should also stop smiling.
When they are standing fifteen paces away keep them there for around two minutes (this seems
like an hour in practice). Then ask the handler to return to the chair and as soon as they sit down
start the talk, stroke, smile, treat process all over again.
When ten pieces of food have been given the handler should stand up and walk away again,
remaining there for two minutes before sitting down and repeating the talk, stroke, smile, treat
process once more.
The third time they walk away (with some dogs (Irish setters?) it is the fourth), you should notice
something happen. When the handler is standing and ignoring the dog it should make an attempt
to draw the handler’s attention to where it wants to go – back to the chair. Some dogs will
merely look in the direction ot the chair, some will whine, some will pull some will look at the
chair and then look up at their handlers. As soon as you see that happen – you are the trainer
correct? – take the lead and ask the handler to go and sit in the chair. As soon as they sit down
ask them to call their dog. It helps if this is the first time that the dog has ever heard this
particular command. You should find, if you have read the dog correctly, that you can now let
go of the lead and the dog should immediately run to its handler who when the dog arrives
should begin the talk, touch, smile, treat process all over again.
The reason that the handler should be using a command that is new to the dog is that we are
trying to teach a very specific meaning to a command and if the old (failed) recall command is
used the dog may well go back to it’s old not coming behaviour!
Repeat asking the owner to walk away and hand you the lead routine twice more and then finish
the session. Remember that when the handler finishes the training session they should simply
get up from the chair and walk away, taking the dog with them and leaving any food treats
behind.
Some important points to note are:

1 The handler should not ask the dog to sit – we are only teaching one behaviour, the
recall. Of course if the dog sits automatically then that is fine as well.

2 The handler should be instructed not to lift their bottom off the chair unless instructed
to do so. This prevents the handler trying to intercept the dog as it approaches with a

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head on tackle.
3 The handler should not hold on to the dog at all, other than holding the extreme end

of the lead. Holding on to the dog’s collar is not permissible, they have only their
voice, facial expression, hands to stroke the dog and a food treat to keep the dog with
them and it is that I want them to work on.
4 If the dog wanders away from them then you, the trainer should pick up the lead and
restrain the dog or even guide the dog back to its owner.
5 Be cautious about using food treats that are too valuable to the dog at this time. You
wil know if the food treats are too valuable because when the handler tries to stroke
the dog it will actually try and avoid the hand that is coming out to stroke it, almost as
if the hand is irritating the dog in it’s quest to be given the food treat!
6 You are the trainer and as such you are going to decide the exact second that the
handler needs to call their dog so that when you let go of the lead, you already can
virtually guarantee the dog’s response to the handlers command.

By preparing the environment and setting the dog and handler up for success their first
introduction to this new command should result in the dog wanting to learn this new command
very rapidly. But we now need to go further.
To extend the dogs perception of this new command we need to advance quite quickly but still
only one step at a time. So for the next session have the handler sit on the chair and start using
the talk, stroke, smile, treat routine as before but now, just as the handler is about to give treat
number ten, use the lead to take the dog away from the handler rather than the handler walking
away and handing the lead to you. Walk away for a distance of around thirty paces before telling
the handler to call their dog. You may actually find it difficult to get the dog thirty paces away
because of its desire to get back for the rewards in which case just go as far as you can. Now let
us change the handler’s behaviour a bit more. This time ask the handler to attach your lead to the
dog’s collar and hold on to theirs. Take the dog away as before and ask them to call their dog.
Tell them to put one arm behind their back when they call their dog. When the dog gets to them
they should still repeat the talk, stroke, and smile, treat routine but should then attach the dogs
lead. Remember that one hand should have been behind their back all of the time. Does the
handler find this difficult? What would make this exercise easier for them? Try to get them to
work out a solution to the problem. I will give you my solution to the problem next month!
Now let’s strengthen the recall even more. When you take the dog away from the handler ask
another handler to position themselves between you and the handler sitting on the chair. Ask the
handler to call their dog so that it now has to pass the other dog on its way back to its handler. I
should mention at this point that we do not have dogs in class that are aggressive to other dog’s
right? If the dog is tempted by the presence of the other dog and prefers to say hello to that dog
in preference to returning to its handler when called, quickly pick up the lead which is thus far
still attached to the dogs collar. Now ask the other dog’s handler to let go of their lead and run to
the handler sat on the chair. Usually the sight of another dog being spoken to, stroked and given
food treats is enough to make any self respecting dog turn green with envy. Make sure that
when you do this the ‘visiting’ dog is given some really good food treats and plenty of them. As
the trainer your job is merely to hold on to the disobedient dogs lead and let it observe and learn
from the situation that has developed in front of it. Wait for at least two minutes before
repeating the training. I would bet that this time the dog ignores the other dog on its way back to
its handler. Remember that when the dog arrives with its handler they should genuinely surprise

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the dog with the rewards that it gets. How about secreting a whole roast chicken (bones
removed) and suddenly producing this when the dog successfully carries out the recall.
Remember that each and every time the dog returns when called it can now be given any number
of rewards in any combination – keep the dog guessing. The penalty for not coming when called
is that it is restrained so it cannot have any fun which means that someone picks up and holds
onto the dogs lead and keeps it under very close restraint until such time as the dog decides to
make the right decision. Sometimes the penalty might be that the handler gets into their car and
drives away leaving the dog restrained by another handler for ten minutes. Sometimes the
penalty is that the other dogs in the training class get all of that dogs rewards given by its own
handler!

Recall 2 – Free running

For this recall to work I would first of all need to have the results of the tests in the last chapter
as we do not need to start from square one with each and every dog.
So, if your dog failed test one do the following:
Mix up your dogs food in the morning and put it into ten (twenty would be better) containers and
leave them dotted around your house.
At any time, and without your dog’s prior knowledge, pick up a container and call your dog to
you. When he gets to you talk, stroke, smile, and treat as for the previous recall. If he does not
come immediately (you set the rules) then tease him with the food in the container but do not
give him any – put the container away and wait for at least two minutes before trying again.
Give your dog as many chances each day as it takes for him to learn to come when you call him.
If you find that you can get six or seven recalls really easily but the last three or four are not
good at all then you are feeding him too much each day!
Repeat this for one week and then move to stage two which is also for dogs that failed test two.
Mix up his food as before and split it into your ten or twenty containers. Now recall him only
the number of times each day that you have containers of food. If he satisfies your requirements
for the recall then talk, stroke, smile, treat using that one portion of food. If he does not satisfy
your recall requirements then use a very harsh facial expression, turn away from him in disgust
and let him see you throw that container of food into your trash can. That container is now gone
forever and he now only has the remainder of containers to work out Thorndyke’s law of effect
on!
Remember that this is the only food that is available there is no other food on offer each day.
After a few days move on to stage three which is also for dogs that failed test three.
Stage three
Now practice your recall in other areas of your house and garden, preferably when he is out of
sight. Have eight containers of his normal food and two containers with something extra special
inside. For a successful recall keep him guessing as to whether he will get a container of
‘normal’ food or if it is going to be the extra special one. The whole of your attitude, that is the
talk, stroke, smile should almost allow him to predict that this is the special bonus container
before it is opened. Of course if he fails a recall then which container do you think he is shown
being thrown away? I would briefly tease him with it first while I was explaining that, as he did
not come immediately I called him I though he must not want this container!

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Now move to stage four which is also for dogs that failed test four and/or five.
Have a friend arrive; making sure that your dog has a light length of cord attached to his collar
beforehand. When your friend arrives allow your dog to run up and greet them and then, when
the initial excitement has subsided, call your dog to you. If he comes straight away keep him
guessing as to how much of his daily food allowance he is going to get. It might be one tenth,
one half, three quarters or all of it in one go. I might also be his normal food or a whole roast
chicken! Of course if he decides not to come when called then ask your friend to fasten the end
of the cord to anything suitable and come an join you for a whole roast chicken, right on front of
your dogs eyes.
Repeat with other dogs that visit your house and garden.
So all we now have to do is to translate the two recalls that I have just described to six different
environments outside and we are done.

Chasing recall
Assuming that you have a really good recall most of the time but just have problems when your
dog begins to chase something then you will add this chasing recall to the basic exercise. What
you are about to teach is a concept of returning when involved in a chase. As with all training
you will have to start in a way so that your dog quickly learns a basic behaviour and then has
multiple opportunities to practice this behaviour.
Assuming that your dog will chase after a toy (if not you will need to get hold of a copy of the
how to get your dog to play booklet) you will need to understand the concept of category 'A' and
category 'B' toys.
If you gathered up ten different toys, teased your dog with them and then threw them all at once
which one would your dog select to play with? If you threw all ten toys three times is your dog’s
selection the same every time? In other words, out of the ten toys available is there one that he
will select in preference to all other toys? This is known as an 'A' category toy. Now remove
that toy and throw the nine remaining toys a further three times. Is there any other toy that your
dog shows a preference for? If there is then this is also known as an 'A' category toy. When the
most highly prized toys have been removed is there any left that your dog simply will not play
with? If there are then these toys are also removed. What is left are known as 'B' category toys.
These are toys that the dog will play with but not if the really good ones are available.
You will now need an assistant to help you and a large area preferably with no distractions.
Have an 'A' category toy concealed behind your back and with your dog off lead and close to you
tease him with a category 'B' toy. Have your assistant positioned around fifty yards away and
facing you. Throw your toy towards your assistant and let your dog chase it. When your dog is
around half way to the toy call him back using your recall command. Assuming that your dog
does not return, immediately on hearing your command, have your assistant either stand on the
toy or even pick it up. This makes it unavailable for your dog who should now get to your
assistant and then look puzzled as to why he cannot get the toy. As soon as your dog looks in
your direction (don't worry - he will eventually) call him as you show him the 'A' category toy
you had concealed and then throw it in the opposite direction from where your assistant is
positioned. Chase after the toy yourself and make sure that you manage to just pick it up before
he get to it. Tease him with it but do not let him have it. Repeat the exercise by recovering the
'B' toy from your assistant and starting all over again. Usually, within three of four throws your
dog should break off his chase of the 'B' toy and return to chase the 'A' toy. When he turns
immediately you call him then let him overtake you and got the 'A' toy for himself. Make this

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part of the game really exciting.
You should find that in a very short time your dog will anticipate the recall and when this
happens and he slows down and turns without your command then switch to two identical 'A'
category toys.
Now keep your dog guessing as to how the game will be played.
Around 60% of the time your dog should be allowed to get the first toy that has been thrown. Of
the remaining 40% you will sometimes need to call him back from the first toy and let him get
the second one. Sometimes you will also call him back from the second toy as well and send
him back for the first one. Sometimes let your dog get the second toy and also send him aback to
get the first one thrown. Sometimes surprise him with a whole roast chicken (bones removed)
for returning when called.
The more you practice this chasing recall the luckier you will get when your dog decides to
chase something he is not supposed to!
Remember if you cannot get him back from a thrown toy you are unlikely to be able to get him
back when he is chasing another dog, bicycle etc. But you cannot teach him to come back by
taking him out and letting him chase other dogs or livestock!! But you can teach him the
essentials of the behaviour that you want on toys.

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