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Companion Planting Chart Published by Suzi Fields for Edible San Marcos The Need For Diversity From a field to the under-stories of the woods you find diversity in ...

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Published by , 2016-02-16 22:21:02

Companion Planting Chart - Ediblesanmarcos's Blog

Companion Planting Chart Published by Suzi Fields for Edible San Marcos The Need For Diversity From a field to the under-stories of the woods you find diversity in ...

Companion Planting Chart

Published by Suzi Fields for Edible San Marcos

The Need For Diversity

From a field to the under-stories of the woods you find diversity in nature. The reason for diversity in

nature is a habitat for a variety of different ecosystems and niches that support various animal, bacterial,

fungal and insect life that keep our ecosystem in balance. By mimicking this in your garden you provide

places for beneficial insects and predators to forage and live.

Companion Planting Benefits

1. Increased yields

2. Improved soil quality

3. Greater diversity of plants = Greater diversity of insects

4. Provides shelter and food for Insect predators and parasites to control pest

5. Color, shape, height and smell confuse pests

6. Interplanting changes microclimate in garden

7. Healthier plants are more resistant

Understanding Plants to Find the Right Combinations

We will explore what things to consider when companion planting. These things are listed on the

companion planting chart on the following pages, you will then understand how to use the chart.

1. Root Depth and Structure

The key to strong plants and bigger yields is to consider the rooting structure and pair plants with different

rooting structures to work together. You do not want to plant two plants that are competing for the same

space or they get crowded and weak. Think of the forest again When there are too many trees they get all

spindly. Or think of seedlings, when you donʼt thin them they get crowded, thin and weak. Ideally we take

a shallow growing root with at long growing tap root. Pair carrots, onions or beets that have shallow roots

with lettuce or broccoli that have deep tap roots.

2. Plant Nutrient Needs

By pairing plants according to their nutrient needs you donʼt deplete the soil. Pair a heavy feeder like

squash, corn, broccoli or kale along with a nitrogen fixer like beans, vetch, clover or alfalfa that supply

nitrogen. Make sure anytime that you are using a crop that has a Rhizobia bacteria symbiosis relationship

that you fix it with an inoculant for that particular crop. Not all inoculants are the same and they will not all

interchange. You also need to get a fresh one each year or when expired. Check the date on your

package. Keep the inoculant stored in the refrigerator, it is heat and light sensitive.

3. Plant Light Requirements

Plants need a certain number of hours of daylight to be healthy each day. A plant will become stunted and

sick without enough sunlight, the leaves may not be deep green, and itʼs growth poor. You can use the

taller crops to shade the crops that like partial shade, just like an understory in a forest.

Full Sun - 8 to 12 hours of direct light

Partial Shade - 5 hours of direct sunlight (most of your cool weather crops)

Deep Shade - Few hours of sun or filtered light - watercress and lettuce

4. Plant Companions and Enemies

Use these columns respectively. They are in here to guide you through your planting. It does not mean

that they have to be 50 yards away from each other! Beans and onions hate each other for instance, do

not put them side by side but leave a few feet in between them and plant maybe squash as a buffer.

5. Timing and Arrangement

If you plan out your garden you can plan what is coming ahead. Just plant in between the existing mid life

plants so you donʼt have empty space in your garden when you harvest the mature plants. Example :

Bunching onions followed by chard,or eggplants, peppers. 3 way relay : Peas-Broccoli-Summer Squash

6. Planting for Beneficials

The most important thing you can do in your garden is plant for beneficials, they control the pests.

Beneficial insects need shelter from the sun and from other insects and birds of prey. Low growing herbs

serve as both shelter and a food source when they flower. They also need food, a carbohydrate source

which is nectar from small flowers. So plant lots of herbs and let them flower, also plant small flowers such

as alyssum. They also need water, give them a little dish of water to drink from.

Map out your garden ahead of time

Take time to sit down and look at the chart before you plant, it is wort the time and effort. Have a wonderful

season. It lasts all year in Texas, a never ending relay! Suzi EdibleSanMarcos.wordpress.com

NAME ROOTING LIGHT NUTRIENT, COMPANION ENEMY
DEPTH NEEDS WATER NEEDS PLANTS PLANTS

ALFALFA Long Growing Full sun Nitrogen Fixer, Barley, Corn, Reduced
Tap Root 6ʼ first Low N, Cotton, Mustard germination of
year, up to 20ʼ Peas, Corn,
after that. Oats, Soybean,
Breaks up soils. Timothy Hay

AMARANTH Long Tap Roots Full Sun Med N,P,K, Low Carrots, Cotton, Soybean
said to break up H2O Tomatoes,
soil good for Cowpeas
carrots

ASPARAGUS Long Spreading Partial Shade Heavy Feeder, Tomato, Beet, Onion, Weeds
Roots 5-6ʼ in Heavy H2O Basil,Parsley,
both directions Carrot, Grape,
Lettuce, Spinach,

BUSH BEAN 36-48” Fibrous Full Sun Nitrogen Fixer, Carrot, Borage, Onion
Spreading Roots Low N, Med H2O Cabbage,Potato,
Beet, Marigold,
Squash, Savory,
Strawberry, Corn

BEETS Short taproot, Full Sun, Low N, High P, Brassicas, Bush Pole Beans,
BROCCOLI most roots Partial Shade Med H2O Beans, Lettuce, Field Mustard
limited to upper Garlic, Onion
1 ft of soil. Partial Shade Heavy Feeder,
fibrous roots Heavy H2O Dill, Garbanzo, Mustard, Tomato,
reaching down Garlic, Hyssop, Pepper,
as far as 5ʼ. Marigold, Mint, Eggplant,
Onion, Nightshades
18 to 36” Tap Nasturtium, Strawberries
Root Pennyroyal, Pole Beans
Thyme, Radish,
Southernwood,
Wormwood

BRUSSEL 18 to 36” Tap Partial Shade Heavy Feeder, Garbanzo,Garlic, Mustard, Tomato,
SPROUTS Root Heavy H2O Hyssop, Pepper,
Marigold, Onion, Eggplant,
Nasturtium, Mint, Nightshades
Pennyroyal, Dill, Strawberries
Thyme, Radish, Pole Beans
Southernwood,
Wormwood

CARROT Short taproot Partial Shade Moderate N, Radish, Dill, Parsnips,
with fibrous foots High Potassium Peas,Lettuce, Apples, Grapes,
reaching down & Phosphorus. Onions,Leeks, Nuts, Fruit trees
as far as 5ʼ, Heavy H2O Sage, Rosemary,
most roots Wormwood,
limited to upper Scorzonera,
2ʼ of soil Tomatoes

EdibleSanMarcos.wordpress.com

NAME ROOTING LIGHT NUTRIENT, COMPANION ENEMY
CELERY DEPTH NEEDS WATER NEEDS PLANTS PLANTS
Carrot, Parsnip
CHARD Shallow fibrous Partial Shade, Heavy Feeder, Tomatoes, Garlic,
roots limited to Deep Shade Heavy H2O, Cabbage, Onions, Pole Beans,
upper 6” of soil Beans, Spinach, Field Mustard
Squash, Coriander,
Tap Root 12 - 24” Chive, Nasturtium

Full Sun, Heavy Feeders, Beans, Brassicas,
Partial Shade Med H2O Onions

COLLARDS 18 to 36” Tap Partial Shade Heavy Feeder, Dill, Garbanzo, Mustard,
Root Heavy H2O Garlic, Hyssop, Tomato,
Marigold, Mint, Pepper,
CUCUMBER Fibrous 12” Tap Onion, Nasturtium, Eggplant,
Root 2-3ʼ Pennyroyal, Nightshades
Thyme, Radish, Strawberries
EGGPLANT Tap Root 4-7ʼ Southernwood, Pole Beans
Deep Wormwood

Partial Shade Heavy feeders, Broccoli, Beans, Anise, Potato,
High H20 during Cabbage, Kale, Marjoram,
fruiting Med Tansy, Rue, Celery, Basil, Sage,
Normally Oregano, Melon, Rosemary,
Radish, Eggplant, Strong Herbs,
Sunflower, Peas, Summer
Tomato, Marigold, Savory, Radish
Nasturtium, Corn (trap crop)

Full Sun Heavy Beans, Pepper, Potatoes (trap
Feeder,High N, Coriander, Thyme, crop)
Heavy H20 Marigold, Mint
Goldenrod,
Tarragon,
Wormwood

GARLIC 2”- 2ʼ short root Partial Shade Light feeder, Low Roses, Brassicas, Beans, Peas
KALE Fruit Trees, Beet,
H2O Celery, Chamomile, Mustard,
LETTUCE Lettuce, Raspberry, Tomato,
18 to 36” Tap Partial Shade Heavy Feeder, Savory, Tomato Pepper,
Root Heavy H2O Eggplant,
Dill, Garbanzo, Nightshades
Fast-growing Partial Shade, Heavy Feeder, Garlic, Hyssop, Strawberries
taproot, usually Med H2O, Marigold, Mint, Pole Beans
stays in upper 2ʼ Deep Shade Onion, Nasturtium,
of soil can go to 5ʼ Pennyroyal, Broad Beans,
Thyme, Radish, Sensitive to
Southernwood, Residues of
Wormwood Broccoli, Vetch,
Barley, Wheat,
Peas, Radishes Rye
Cabbage, Beet,
Kale, Collards,
Carrots, Cucumber,
Onion, Pole Lima
Bean, Strawberry

EdibleSanMarcos.wordpress.com

NAME ROOTING LIGHT NUTRIENT, COMPANION ENEMY
OKRA DEPTH NEEDS WATER NEEDS PLANTS PLANTS

shallow 3-10 feet Full Sun,
spreading roots Partial Shade

ONION Small bulb with Partial Shade Light Feeder, Cabbage, Beets, Beans, Peas
PEAS fibrous roots Med H20 Strawberries,
PEPPER growing 6-8” Lettuce
POTATO deep
SPINACH
SQUASH Shallow fibrous Full Sun Fixes N , low N, Tomato, Beans, Garlic, Onion,
3ʼ Low H2O, before Eggplant, Corn, Potato
TOMATO bloom heavy Lettuce, Spinach,
after bloom, High Peppers, Radish,
P, K Coriander, Dill,
Cucumber

Fibrous, Full Sun Med to High Basil, Carrot, Fennel, Kohlrabi
spreading roots, feeder, med to Eggplant, Onion,
mostly confined high H2O Tomato
to the top 8” of
soil, but can
extend 4ʼ deep

Early growth is Full Sun Light feeder, Med Beans, Cabbage, Apple, Pear,
shallow but late H20 Corn,Peas, Eggplant (trap
in the season Horseradish, Crop)
fibrous roots may Onion, Radish,
reach 1-2ʼ Lettuce, Petunia,
Marigold,

Fast-growing Partial Shade Heavy Feeder, Beans, Potato
taproot up to 5ʼ Light H2O Brassicas,
long. usually Celery, Onions,
limited to upper Peas


Taproot usually Full Sun Heavy Feeder, Beans, Borage, Potato, Pumpkin
in upper 2ʼ can High N, Heavy Catnip, Celery,
go 6ʼ H2O Celeriac,Corn,
Nasturtium,
Marigold, Onion,
Oregano,
Radish,Tansy

Fibrous, Full Sun Heavy Feeder, Brassicas, Chive, Corn, Dill,
spreading roots Med and deep Carrot, Celery, Fennel, Kohlrabi,
3-4ʼ deep,usually H2O Onion, Pepper, Potato, Walnut
top 8”. Roots Cucumber, Basil,
spread to a Marigold, Melon,
diameter of 5ʼ Nasturtium, Pea,

EdibleSanMarcos.wordpress.com


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