Magazine 13 June 2023 | Issue 01 | Vol 03 Bukit Melawati History of an ancient FORT MALAWATI story of iconic symbol of Kuala Selangor Altingburg Lighthouse Mystery Behind ‘'Penggawa Canon' Meet the Monkeys the friendly-aggresive neighbourhood
01 02 03 Introduction History of Fort Malawati Things to explore 02 03 Altingsburg Lighthouse Paranomic View Cannons Type of cannon Museum of Kuala Selangor Baitulhillal Poisoned well Batu hampar Royal Mausoleum 08 09 10 11 13 14 15 16 17
04 05 20 21 Meet the monkeys Mysterious Penggawa cannon
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Bukit Malawati (Malawati Hill in English) is a hillfort located in Kuala Selangor, Selangor, Malaysia. Managed by the Kuala Selangor Municipal Council, Bukit Malawati is a popular local tourist attraction. The hillfort’s position holds strategic importance which sits at the river mouth of Selangor River that drains into the Strait of Malacca, with a vantage point of both the Strait and Sumatra, Indonesia. This site was built in year 1728 to year 1826 under the reign of Sultan Ibrahim to fight away the Dutch. Stepping into this historical site is like a walk down memory lane as many of the monuments are still very well maintained there. Some of Bukit Malawati’s historical highlights include an old lighthouse, as well as the remains of Kota Malawati (Malay for Fort Malawati). Bukit Malawati also serves as the final resting place for three of Selangor’s earliest Sultans. Malawati Hill 2
3 The fort was first constructed by local Malays in the early 16th century at the behest of Tun Mahmud Shah of Malacca. The purpose of this fort was to defend the state of Selangor from its enemies which came from the river mouth. Towards the end of the 17th century, Bugis settlers began to establish themselves in the West coast of the Malay Peninsula and installed Raja Lumu to be the first Sultan of Selangor. Fort Malawati In 1742, he styled himself as Sultan Salehuddin Shah. Sultan Ibrahim Shah, who succeeded Raja Lumu in 1778, had the fort to be built at the peak of Bukit Melawati for defence.Selangor had close diplomatic ties with the governments of Johor and Riau while the Dutch were attempting to conquer Johor and Riau. Therefore, the second Sultan of Selangor feared that the Dutch would attack Selangor in retaliation. The fort was built with solid stones arranged closely, and almost half of Bukit Melawati was built with stone pillars and decorated with several cannons. In order to avoid erosion of the hill, rain trees were planted. The fort has a big entrance about 3 metres wide facing the east and a staircase leading to the courtyard. A 20-step staircase made of solid stones leading from the courtyard will take you to a small hill called Malawati hill.
4 Nonetheless, Kuala Selangor still fell to the Dutch troops when they stormed the fort in 1784. Led by Dirk van Hogendorp, the fierce campaign was mounted as reprisal to the series of assaults waged by Sultan Ibrahim’s ally, Raja Haji Fisabilillah, against A Famosa in Malacca, which was a Dutch stronghold at the time. The Sultan and various dignitaries have held their ceremonies through this entrance. The second entrance which was about two meters wide was situated on the east side near an existing rest house. The third entrance faced the west and was used as an entrance from the defence fort at Bukit Tanjung Keramat. This entrance was equipped with several cannons measuring about 2 to 5 meters facing the direction of Kuala Selangor. 02
Although Raja Haji was killed during the battle, the Dutch wanted retribution from Sultan Ibrahim Shah for providing him with naval support. The Dutch East India Company (VOC) then dispatched their fleet of vessels to Kuala Selangor to attack Sultan Ibrahim Shah. On 13 July 1784, war broke out between the Dutch and Sultan Ibrahim. The advancing van Hogendorp’s VOC armada battered the fort with their cannons from water for two weeks. The fort was nearly destroyed, driving Sultan Ibrahim Shah’s forces into the nearby jungles. 5
Sultan Ibrahim Shah himself fled to Bernam, and subsequently to Pahang. On 2 August 1784, the fort fell into the hand of the Dutch and renamed it Fort Altingburg in honour of Willem Arnold Alting, the Governor-General of the Dutch East Indies from 1780 to 1797. Later, Sultan Ibrahim would return to recapture the fort in 1785 with the aid of his brother, Dato’ Penggawa Permatang Mahabijaya (Penggawa Tua), and Bendahara Adb. The fort was eventually destroyed during the Selangor Civil War. 6
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ligh tho use Altingsburg It has two levels where the lower part consist of twirlf steels stairs ffrom bottom to top. At the top level there is a big rounded flat bulb. they lit the bulb from 7.00 pm to 6.00 am the next morning. Navigators used the lighthouse as a compass. The light from the lighthouse act as signals to ship that passing through the malacca strait from all directions. The lighthouse is now a symbol of Kuala Selangor. Kuala Selangor lighthouse also known as Altingsburg lighthouse. The Altingsburg Lighthouse is a great place to enjoy sunsets. Although you are not allowed to enter the lighthouse, its surrounding area offers a panoramic view of the Straits of Malacca which is a true sight to behold. The lighthouse serves as a guide for vessels that are headed towards the Straits. The structure was originally built by the Dutch in 1794. It was extensively refurbished by the British in 1907 before it was officially reopened in 1910. 8
9 Panaromic The View As a historical place, Bukit Melawati has several remnants from the past that appeal to those interested in its history. Apart from being a historical site, being at the top og the hill gives you an excellent panoramic view of Selangor coastline. You would be able to see the Straits Of Malacca on a clear day, or bask in the warmth of a sunset on a clear day, or bask in the warmth of a sunset on a calm evening. Some fishing settlements are within view as well. Tourists often visit this place just to enjoy the view and take pictures for their own memory collection.
10 cannons The Based on history, there were 102 cannons belonging to the Selangor government at that time, but a total of 68 were confiscated by the Dutch. Later, part of the cannon was taken by Sultan Ibrahim to Bukit Raja, Permatang. Therefore, there are currently only a few cannons left on Bukit Melawati.
Cannons Types 11 There is another type of Malay cannon believed to have been handmade during the Malay Goverment era and are found in Kuala Selangor, especially the one at Permatang. This type of cannon is small in size and its length does not exceed 5 feet and with both circumferences at the base and mouth to be about the same size. Presently only afew of these cannons are left and they can be found on Bukit Raja, Permatang. There is a probability that cannon of this type were obtained from the Goverment of Perak in facing the Dutch attack or used dusing the civil war between Selangor and Pahang. These cannons have similarities with the cannon found on the bank of Sungai Perak which was named Padam Pelita (snuff the lamp) and dated 1875. this date is most consistent with the date of the civil war of Selangor which was from 1867 to 1873. This Padam Pelita cannon git its name based on the event that when this cannon was fired all the lamps around it would be snuffed out. Handmade cannon
12 This cannon measures 3 feet in length and with a flaring shape at the base. It is made from steel with lip being thinner than the cannons before this. At the end of the base is a nipple shaped like a ring and made in a sturdy manner. This type of cannon, besides being found at Bukit Malawati, is also found at Kota Raja Mahadi. This cannon was apparently nrought by Raja Mahadi from Kuala Selangor to Klang to further stregnthen his defences there. Short Cannon During the time when Dutch occupied fort Malawati and fort Tanjung Keramat, they equipped both of said forts and added more canons made by them from Malacca. The referred canons are still here in Fort Malawati. It has the measurement of 8 feet 8 inches in lenght, 4 feet 8 inches circumference at the base, 2 feet 10 inches circumference at the mouthand with 3 inches thickness at the lip. At the base end of the canon is nipple protrusion as a place to hold for lifting. On both the left and right side at the central region are ears for placing on a foundation. A hole for ignition to fire is made about 2 1/2 from the base. It’s manufacture is sturdier than Malay cannon. Five of these cannons are still on the edge of fort Malawati and on Bukit Belanda. If carefully scrustinised, the said cannons have close resemblance with cannons adorning the archway of A Famosa fort of Melacca which was originally a Dutch fort of excellence region. Dutch Cannon Lela is a small cannon that was used during the civil war in Selangor between Tengku Kudin and Raja Mahadi. This weapon made from pure iron is only 4 feet 3 inches in length with the circumferences at the base of 15 inches and the measurement at the mouth being half of that. As Lela is small in size, it could be carried everywhere on the shoulder and easy to direct at its target. A piece of Lela of this type is still available at the frontage of Kuala Selangor National school building in Permatang. Lela
Museum of Kuala Selangor Not too far from the lighthouse, the local museum houses arrays of ancient weapons, dioramas, specimens of old currencies, and other collections of relics and artifacts. Visitors can learn about Kuala Selangor’s local history, including its early settlement, fishing culture, and trading history from the exhibits. 13
14 Baitulhilal This building was constructed specifically for the purpose of sightings the ‘New Moon’ to determine the beginnning of Ramadhan and Syawal.
Poisoned Well 15 This is a well with cement plaster and round in shape which is located at the edge of the road to Bukit Malawati (Bukit Selangor) in the direction of the Rest House. This well is said to be poisoned and it was the place of torturing traitors during the earlier era. The water of the well was poisoned by the sprinkling of a concoction of various types of poisons such as poisonous saps and fine hairs of the bamboo shoot. In the earlier days, a person found to be guilty of grave offence would be immersed in the said well and filled with poisonous fluid up to the chin level and which would result in the said traitor to undergo extreme agony and eventually die.
16 The bedrock is situated at the far end of the sultan’s palace garden. It is placed on an open area with three descending steps in the direction of the sunrise. It is actuall a solid piece of stone neasuring 5 x 5 x 1 feet square and supported by a heap of earth and sand as it base. There is an opinion whixh stated that this stone was used as a place to behead traitors. Batu Hampar
Mausoleum Royal The Royal Mausoleum (Malay: Makam Diraja Bukit Melawati) serves as the burial ground for the first three Sultans of Selangor - Sultan Salehuddin Shah, Sultan Ibrahim Shah, and Sultan Muhammad Shah, as well as their wives. The site is closed to the general public. List of graves Rulers of Selangor Sultan Salehuddin Shah - The first Sultan of Selangor (1766 - 1782) Sultan Ibrahim Shah- The second Sultan of Selangor (1782 - 1826) Sultan Muhammad Shah - The third Sultan of Selangor (1826 - 1857) 17
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Monkeys Meet the 04
The friendly-aggressive neighbouhood Bukit Malawati is home to the local silvered leaf monkeys and long-tailed macaques. The silvered leaf monkeys at Bukit Malawati are accustomed to human presence, and are sometimes bold enough to approach visitors. Tourists are discouraged from feeding the monkeys. Selangor silvered leaf monkeys The Selangor silvered langur (Trachypithecus selangorensis) is a species of leaf monkey found on the west coast of Peninsular Malaysia. It had been previously considered a form of silvery lutung. Roos and colleagues elevated this population to a subspecies level, Trachypithecus cristatus selangorensis, in 2008. It has since come to be regarded by primatologists as a separate species, Trachypithecus selangorensis. Long-tailed macaques The crab-eating macaque (Macaca fascicularis), also known as the long-tailed macaque and referred to as the cynomolgus monkey in laboratories, is a cercopithecine primate native to Southeast Asia. A species of macaque, the crab-eating macaque has a long history alongside humans. The species has been alternately seen as an agricultural pest, a sacred animal, and, more recently, the subject of medical experiments. 20
The Mysterious Penggawa cannon Besides the cannon at Bukit Malawati, there is a very special cannon named ‘Meriam Penggawa’ (trans. Penggawa cannon). The cannon was rediscovered in 1961 at Pasar Kuala Sungai Buloh by Dato Penngawa Permatang Haji Ibhrahim Bin Dato’ Ismail P.J.K and team. Thus, the cannon known as ‘Meriam Penggawa’. This cannon is now silently sitting on its cement stone at the Royal Mausoleum. However, it is not as quiet as it appears. In 1961 and 1978, the cannon said to be exploded on its own. The story begins: Istana Alam Shah Klang, which replaced the Old Crown Palace when it was destroyed, was finished at the beginning of 1961. Sultan Abdul Aziz of Selangor, who would later open the palace, had not yet been enthroned at that time. His Majesty then gave the order for one of the cannons atop Bukit Selangor to be taken to Klang by Datuk Penggawa of Kuala Selangor. Datuk Penggawa selected a cannon called the “Sultan Ibrahim Cannon” to be transported to Klang the following day after a deal was completed. After nightfall, Kuala Selangor’s weather appeared to be quite favourable, calm, and clear of rain. People living there heard an explosive sound out of the blue. People mistook the odd situation for a thunderous sound and were unaware of it. The next day, Datuk Penggawa and his team gathered in Bukit Malawati to transport the cannon to the palace. When they all arrived there, they were shocked to find that the teak tree, which had a base as big as two more huggers, had sunk into the ground with its leaves scorched like they had been burned. The shock grew when some other individuals started chatting about how there were 4 1/2 miles of trees that were scorched as if they had been eaten by fire on the left and right sides of the road between Kuala Selangor and Assam Jawa. Dato Penggawa continued on transporting the cannon to the palace in order to carry out the sultan’s command, but but terrible things were happening one by one and preventing them from completing their task of doing so. In the end, they chose to leave the cannon in its current position. After a decade, the cannon said to be exploded again On August 16, 1976. After the second incident, people were try to find the reason of the explosion but falied. Yet, the surprising fact is that both of the incidents happened during a new Sultan of Selangor crowned. 21
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