VTCT Level 2 Certificate in Perming and Neutralising Hair

Outcome 1: Be able to prepare to perm and neutralise hair (continued)

Length – short, medium, long. client to stylist).

Density – fine, medium, thick. Contagious:

Growth patterns – cowlick, widow’s peak, Bacterial – impetigo (blisters, weep, yellow
nape whorl, double crown, male pattern crust), folliculitis (yellow pustules), sycosis
baldness. (yellow, spot, follicle), furunculosis (pus
filled spot), sebaceous cyst (lump on top or
Skin tone – fair, medium, olive, dark. under skin).

Face shape – oval, round, square, oblong, Viral – warts (raised, rough skin, brown),
heart, pear. herpes (blisters).

Head size – large, medium, small. Fungal – tinea capitis/ringworm (patches,
pink/grey, scaly, broken hair).
Existing curl – tight, soft, wave.
Animal parasites – pediculosis capitis
Lifestyle – job, family, financial, time. (head lice, parasite, 6 legs, suck blood),
scabies (parasites, mites).
Test results – good, bad, caution, positive,
negative. Non-contagious:

Hair and scalp contra-indications: Can Psoriasis – over production of skin cells,
prevent/alter service, product, technique. dry, silvery, scales.

Types of condition – skin disorders Cicatrical alopecia – scar.
(disease, infestation, infection, defect,
bacteria, virus, fungi, parasites). Alopecia totalis – complete hair loss.

Skin sensitivities – reaction. Male pattern baldness – hair recedes at
hairline or loss at crown.
Allergies – latex, nut, plasters, perfume,
oil. Traction alopecia – excessive pulling,
brushing curling and straightening.
History of allergic reaction – positive
reaction to skin test, colour service. Alopecia areata – stress, bald patches
(seborrhea – excessive oil).
Incompatible products – metallic salts,
previous chemical treatments. Dandruff – itchy, white, skin cells.

Medication – prescription medication. Dry scalp – white, powdery.

Medical condition – high blood pressure, Eczema/dermatitis – allergic reaction to
pregnancy, radiotherapy, cancer. detergent, red, irritation, swollen, weeping.

Hair condition – chemical, heat damage, Acne – raised bumps and spots.
environmental.
Defects of the hair:
Hair disorder – contagious/non-
contagious. Fragilitas crinium – split, dry ends.

Skin disorder – contagious/non- Monilethrix – beaded hair.
contagious, cross-infection (stylist to client,

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Photo courtesy of Wahl UK Ltd.

Outcome 1: Be able to prepare to perm and neutralise hair (continued)

Trichorrhexis nodosa – rough, swollen, professional image, legal implications.
broken shaft.
Following manufacturers’ instructions:
Sebaceous cyst – sebum filled lump. On bottle, packaging, leaflet, colour chart,
ensures successful service, storage
Damaged cuticle – dull hair. (temperature, location, light), handling
(correct mixing), use (application, removal),
Salon health and safety legislation disposal (dilution products, recycle
and regulations: Health and safety at empties), prevents legal action.
work, control of substances hazardous
to health, reporting of injuries diseases Range of perm lotions: Acid, alkaline,
and dangerous occurrences, personal exothermic, varieties available (virgin,
protective equipment, electricity at work, resistant, normal, coloured, fragile).
manual handling, supply of goods and
services, trade description, data protection, Range of neutralising agents: Based on
employers liability (compulsory insurance), hydrogen peroxide, sodium bromate.
occupiers liability, local by-laws (set by
council), salon rules, code of conduct, Range of products used during the
observance by all staff. perming process: Barrier cream, pre-
perm treatment, cleansing/clarifying
Hair tests: Use manufacturer’s shampoo, anti-oxidant conditioner, perm
instructions, salon guidelines, before during lotion, neutraliser agent.
and after service.
Range of tools and equipment used for
What each test checks for: perming and neutralising:

Elasticity test – tensile strength, internal Perm curlers (various sizes) – spiral
strength of hair. perm curlers, bendy rods, plastic perm
rollers, plastic pin curl clips.
Porosity test – ability to absorb product,
moisture loss from hair. Equipment – pintail comb, wide tooth
comb, sectioning clips, end papers, cotton
Skin test – allergic reaction to chemicals. wool, drip tray, plastic bowl/neutralising
sponge, towels, tissue paper, personal
Pre-perm test curl – suitability for service, protective equipment (disposable gloves,
size and shape of curl. apron and cape), tension rods, climazone.

Incompatibility test – check for presence
of metallic salts, suitability of further
chemical services.

Development test curl – monitor the
development of the perm.

Test cutting – check suitability of colour
choice.

Testing and recording results: Record
card up-to-date and accurate, essential
information, for future reference,

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Outcome 2: Be able to perm and neutralise hair

Professional communication in a salon off of the face.
environment: Try to avoid technical
language, always respond, consider client’s Taking a meche of hair during perm
confidentiality. winding: Sections to be same width and
length as curler or rod.
Verbal – speaking (tone of voice, the
language you use, how quickly, clearly), Winding techniques: Croquinole (points
questioning (open, closed, probing). to roots), spiral winding (roots to points),
wind at 90 degrees, even tension, curler
Non-verbal – body language, positive wound parallel to section, long hair –
attitude (your posture, facial expressions, wiggle when winding, curler to sit on own
hand gestures, the distance you stand), base.
listening (be patient, try to understand).
Size of perm curler: Variation of rod size,
Written – visual aids, magazines, client diameter of curler, various sizes – colour
records. coded, green the smallest (very small, tight
curl, short hair), black the largest (large
Behave professionally in a salon bouncy curl/root lift).
environment: Follow health and safety
practice and procedure, salon code of Monitor the process: Accurate timing,
conduct, respect others, value client(s), co- use timer, perform regular development
operate with others (be sympathetic, fair, test curl, check for “S” or “C” formation,
not aggressive), use appropriate language, manufacturer’s guidelines, prevent legal
avoid gossip, maintain confidentiality, action, successful result.
polite/cheerful and friendly manner, friendly
facial expressions, open body language, Development time: Manufacturer’s
positive attitude, eye contact, sensible guidelines, variation on each product, point
behaviour, team work, pride in work, when desired curl is achieved.
punctuality, employer and client loyalty.
Following manufacturers’ instructions:
How to choose a suitable product: On bottle, packaging, leaflet, colour chart,
Choice of lotion, strength of lotion, ensures successful service, storage
condition of hair, hair texture, degree of curl (temperature, location, light), handling
or movement required, record of previous (correct mixing), use (application, removal),
treatment, manufacturer’s instructions. disposal (dilution products, recycle
empties), prevents legal action.
Sectioning techniques:
Why it is important to rinse neutralising
Nine section – methodical winding, hair products from hair: Sulphur bonds will
sectioned into ‘9’ sections (most used not reform fully, incorrect result achieved,
method). creeping oxidation, deterioration of hair
condition.
Directional – supports the style, rollers to
be placed in the same direction as finished Removal method – use manufacturer’s
result. instructions for individual products,
thorough rinsing, average time 10 minutes,
Brick – rollers placed in a brick formation, long hair requires longer rinsing, check for
avoids partings, good for keeping hair back

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Photo courtesy of Wahl UK Ltd.

Outcome 2: Be able to perm and neutralise hair (continued)

successful removal, no remaining smell, top bin, dilute chemicals with running water,
hair in rod loses its oily feel. environmental protection, salon policies for
hazardous waste, single use items, recycle
Water temperature and flow: Check empties.
temperature on wrist, warm water, flow
not too strong (create splashing), confirm Product storage – check end date/
client comfort through rinsing, water too packaging, store away from heat/damp/
hot (burn hair and scalp), water too cold direct sunlight, empties avoid theft.
(uncomfortable for client), cool/warm water
recommended for neutralising. Provide suitable aftercare advice:
Important part of service, avoid technical
How to follow safe and hygienic working language, maintain eye contact, suggest/
practices: advise/recommend, provide information.

Maintaining a safe salon – clean, Maintenance – frequency of visit, regular
tidy, safe standards of working, remove services, minimise chemical treatments,
spillages, report slippery surfaces, remove/ correct use of electrical equipment, product
report obstacles, clear access to trolleys use and demonstration.
and equipment, clean/sterilise/disinfect
tools, equipment, work surfaces, no Effects of perm lotion on the hair
smoking, eating, drinking or drugs in salon, structure:
professional personal hygiene.
Softening stage – opens, swells, lifts the
Personal protective equipment – cuticle scales, alkaline product.
wear protective equipment, avoid latex,
powdered gloves, apron. Moulding stage – deposits hydrogen
into cortex, hydrogen attaches to the
Electricity at work – visual check of disulphide bonds, disulphide bonds break
equipment, no trailing wires, portable into individual sulphur bonds, from cystine
appliance testing. to cysteine, amino acids, takes shape
of the perm curler, amount of disulphide
Manual handling – moving stock safely, bonds broken varies per lotion type,
lifting, working heights, unpacking. approximately 20%.

Towels – wash regularly, clean for every Fixing stage – oxidation process, removal
client, place dirty towels in covered bin. of hydrogen by the addition of oxygen,
oxygen joins with hydrogen to make water
Reporting of injuries diseases and (H2O), water floods out of cortex, disulphide
dangerous occurrences – accident book, bonds reformed, acid pH.
reporting diseases, log accidents.
The effects of temperature on the
Control of substances hazardous to perming process:
health – store, handle, use, disposal,
replace lids, ventilation for vapour and Heat – speeds up processing time, helps
dust, avoid overexposure to chemicals, use to open/swell cuticle scales, manufacturer
manufacturers’ instructions for use. requirement, some are self heating, some
need additional heat.
Disposal of waste – sharps box, closed

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Outcome 2: Be able to perm and neutralise hair (continued)

Cold – slows down processing time. Breakage – restructurant conditioner, cut.

Type of heat: Straight areas – re-perm if condition
allows.
Body heat – client feeling cold, warm, hot,
perspire through scalp. Loss of hair colour – apply semi/quasi
after neutraliser.
Salon temperature – summer, winter,
central heating, air conditioning. Rubber band markings – monitor,
use tension rods in future, restructuring
Additional heat – climazone, hood dryer, treatments.
use of towels.

The importance of accurate timing:
Manufacturer’s instructions, prevents over/
under processing, prevents deterioration of
hair condition, successful result.

Pre-perm treatments: Porosity leveller,
used prior to perming, evens out porosity,
even penetration of perm lotion into cortex,
hair more pliable, available in individual
sprays/bottles.

Post-perm conditioners: Acid pH, anti-
oxidant conditioner, restores natural pH,
prevents creeping oxidation, closes/smooth
cuticle, applied after final neutralising rinse.

The types and causes of problems:

Perm slow to develop – re-apply lotion,
apply added heat.

Skin sensitivity – remove lotion
immediately, rinse cool water, advise client
to visit doctor.

Perm curlers fall out – replace rod, add
tension rod, net.

Fish hooks – cut ends of hair.

Frizziness – restructurant conditioner, cut.

Uneven curl – re-perm if condition allows.

Curl too loose – re-perm if condition
allows.

Curl too tight – relax if condition allows.

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Notes

Use this area for notes and diagrams
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