2022-02-01 Elle Canada

beauty

Who better to choose the best products
on the market than ELLE beauty editors
around the globe? These seasoned pros have

selected their top picks, so take note!

By THÉO DUPUIS-CARBONNEAU Photography GARRETT NACCARATO

51E L L E C A N A D A . C O M

Makeup...

MASCARA FOUNDATION LIPSTICK

LANCÔME LASH CLÉ DE PEAU BEAUTÉ CHANEL ROUGE
IDÔLE MASCARA RADIANT CREAM COCO BLOOM
FOUNDATION
($35, lancome.ca) ($52, chanel.com)
($170, cledepeaubeaute.ca)
Fanned out, lengthened and lifted This combines the intense colour
This creamy tinted foundation,
lashes: That’s the promise of this of a lipstick, the shine of a gloss and
with its pearl- and silk-based
well-thought-out mascara, which the moisturizing power of a balm
illuminating complex, blends
combines a curved brush that’s in perfect harmony. The patented
seamlessly while smoothing and
designed to perfectly fit the shape formula, infused with oil micro-
unifying. What’s more, marjoram
of the lashes with a formula that’s droplets, keeps your lips vibrant
and water-chestnut extracts and
infused with white-tea extract. for eight hours.
hyaluronic acid help maintain a
“What’s not to love? This is “This lipstick is a dream—it
by far one of my top three high level of hydration all day long. has lip-balm benefits as
favourite mascaras of all well as a vibrant-colour
time. The brush catches “This is such a beautiful payoff that makes
every single lash, providing foundation for those with wearing a bright shade
amazing separation, dry skin. It looks natural, like berry, hot pink or
volume and a bulletproof evens out skin tone and fierce red all day totally
effect. This is my new hides imperfections. It also effortless. Each lip colour
mascara idol!” looks amazing on more has a hint of sophisticated
mature skin.” shine that makes lips look
– CARIN HELLMAN, juicy, conditioned and
ELLE SWEDEN – MARTHE JAKOBSEN, completely mesmerizing.”
ELLE NORWAY
– MARGAUX ANBOUBA,

ELLE U.S.

52 E L L E C A N A D A . C O M

BEAUTY

MOISTURIZER cFaarcee...

AUGUSTINUS BADER MASK
THE CREAM WITH TFC8
SHISEIDO LIFTDEFINE
($225, sephora.ca) RADIANCE FACE MASK

There’s a reason this cream has won ($135, shiseido.com)

the hearts of an impressive number Brilliantly conceived, this two-piece

of beauty editors and celebrities the mask adheres perfectly to the face and

world over: Its patented technology, jaw, infusing skin with a vitamin-rich

based on amino acids, vitamins serum and botanical extracts to boost

and synthesized molecules and collagen production and lift, brighten

developed by professor Augustinus and strengthen.

Bader, promises to promote cellular “I’ve used many sheet masks
over the past few years,
renewal as well as nourish and but this must be the most
luxurious one. The scent, the
protect the skin. texture, the amazing glow
it gives me afterwards—it’s
“I can’t live without this! really that good. It’s my
The formula is light and go-to whenever I have a
smooth, it evens out my big event or just want to feel
skin tone and gives it a confident in my skin before
healthy glow and my skin an important meeting.”
stays hydrated all day.
Plus, you can easily apply – SHANICE ZOETEWEIJ,
makeup over it. My skin
has never looked better.” ELLE NETHERLANDS

– CAROLINA ALVAREZ,
ELLE MEXICO

ANTI-AGING

GUERLAIN ABEILLE
ROYALE ADVANCED
YOUTH WATERY OIL

($132, thebay.com)

Even more powerful than the first

iteration, this new generation

of Guerlain’s signature facial

oil combines the power of four

different honeys and royal jelly to

deeply repair and plump the skin.

“I add two to three drops
of this oil to my daily
serum to make a super-
serum. I like the scent,
which is invigorating
when I use the product
in the morning and
soothing when I use
it in the evening.”

– PETRA WINDSCHNURER,

ELLE SLOVENIA

BEAUTY

Fragrance...

DIOR LA COLLECTION
PRIVÉE CHRISTIAN DIOR
EDEN-ROC EAU DE
PARFUM SPRAY

($330 for 125 mL, saksfifthavenue.com)
With this liquid sunshine, François
Demachy, former perfumer at
Dior, wanted to pay tribute to the
emblematic Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc
on the French Riviera. He succeeded:
The notes of white flowers unfold on a
mineral canvas and evoke the caress
of the sun on the skin just after a swim
in the sea.

“This amber fragrance
reminds me of swimming
in the Mediterranean Sea.
The tangy, salty top note
smells like the perfect
afternoon breeze.”

– YOUNIE TSANG,
ELLE HONG KONG

54 E L L E C A N A D A . C O M

GREEN GREEN
SKINCARE MAKEUP

WELEDA SKIN FOOD KJAER WEIS
BODY BUTTER IMPOSSIBLE MASCARA

($25, well.ca) ($43, thedetoxmarket.ca)
Although extremely rich in nourishing
ingredients like cocoa and shea We love the winning duo that is
butters, this formula melts into the skin
upon application, leaving it silky and this incredible mascara, which
hydrated for hours. A must-have to get
through the Canadian winter. combines a dual-sided recycled-

“I’ve tried almost every product nylon brush (a curved side for
in this line by Weleda, and this
is the jackpot item. It absorbs adding volume and dimension
into your skin in just a couple of
minutes, leaving it feeling truly and a flat side for lengthening
moisturized, not sticky. Love!”
and defining) with a nourishing
– DARIYA NOGAYEVA-ALISHKEVICH,
ELLE KAZAKHSTAN formula made with carnauba

Eco-friepnrdoldyucts... wax, beeswax, marula oil and

GREEN raspberry water.
HAIR CARE
“Unfortunately, most
DAVINES LOVE clean-mascara formulas
SMOOTHING on the market do not
CONDITIONER deliver on volume,
length and hold. Instead,
($39.50, ca.davines.com) they tend to flake and
Use this conditioner to transform smudge. Not this one! It
frizzy, unruly hair into a mane that’s gives lifted, full, separated
silky and shiny in record time. The lashes that last until
secret? Olive extract, an ingredient evening. The refillable
rich in fatty acids and vitamin E, packaging is also a
harvested in Messina, Italy. huge benefit.”

“Italian pride! This – BARBARA HUBER,
mask really can control
frizzy hair in less than a ELLE GERMANY
minute. And the brand’s
environmental loyalty
is impressive.”

– MICHELA MOTTA,
ELLE ITALY

cBaordey... BODY
MOISTURIZER

CLARINS TONIC
BODY BALM

($48, clarins.ca)

This toning cream is as enchanting

for the senses (thanks to aromatic

essences of geranium, rosewood,

mint and rosemary) as it is

stimulating for the skin (thanks to

ginseng and apple-seed oil). Use it

after a bath or shower for an instant

at-home spa.

“When it comes to body
care, I always believe in
Clarins. This balm smells
and feels divine. I love that
my whole bathroom is fully
scented after a shower.”

– YOUNJI JUNG,
ELLE SOUTH KOREA

SUNCARE ANTI-CELLULITE

SUPERGOOP! SISLEY-PARIS LE SCULPTEUR
GLOWSCREEN
SPF 40 PA+++ ($340, sisley-paris.com)

($48, sephora.ca) This emulsion, a collaboration
between Sisley Laboratories and
This super-light, slightly tinted the University of Paris, is made with
pearlescent formula goes on like caffeine, pink-pepper oil and ginger,
a charm—whether worn solo or plankton and mandarin extracts and
under makeup—creating a luminous is designed to adapt to the body’s
complexion and protecting skin from biorhythm. Massage it in—morning
UV rays and blue light. and night—for visibly smoother, firmer
and more toned skin.
“I’m ashamed to say it, but
until recently, I wasn’t the most “The gel-in-oil emulsion
diligent about sun protection. texture gives the skin a fresh
This product has changed feeling and a velvety finish. I
everything. Its texture is super like the natural fragrance of
thin, so you don’t feel it at lavender, sage, marjoram
all after application, and it and rosemary.”
doesn’t ‘pill’ when you apply
your makeup. It also gives – YVONNE YANG,
your complexion a nice glow, ELLE TAIWAN
which is great when you wear
it on its own.”

– THÉO DUPUIS-CARBONNEAU,
ELLE QUÉBEC AND ELLE CANADA

56 E L L E C A N A D A . C O M

BEAUTY

Hair care...

SHAMPOO STYLING

KÉRASTASE CURL ORIBE DRY
MANIFESTO BAIN TEXTURIZING SPRAY
HYDRATATION
DOUCEUR SHAMPOO ($60, holtrenfrew.com)

($46, kerastase.ca) Adopted (and loved!) by industry pros

Curly hair’s new best friend, this and celebrities alike, this texturizing

shampoo is enriched with ceramides two-in-one spray absorbs oil at

and manuka honey and eliminates oil the roots and gives hair maximum

and residues while enhancing curls. volume, all without the cardboard

“I am a curly girl who loves effect. What’s more, it has Oribe’s
her hair straight, and this
shampoo—and the whole signature fragrance.
line—made me love my
waves beyond just beach “Magic in a bottle. This spray
time. It gives me defined, doesn’t feel like anything on
shiny, flexible curls.” the hair, but it helps to fluff it
up and primes it for the next
– MARIANNA PARTEVYAN, steps of hairstyling. On lazy
days, a quick spritz can help
ELLE UKRAINE shape the face-framing
pieces of hair.”
CONDITIONER
– CHELSEA TANG,
OLAPLEX NO. 5 BOND ELLE SINGAPORE
MAINTENANCE
CONDITIONER

($38, sephora.ca)

The secret to this conditioner? It has

a patented technology that helps

relink broken bonds in the hair fibre,

leaving strands stronger, shinier and

softer with every use. Goodbye, split

ends; hello, healthy locks!

“Oh, Olaplex, how
you’ve changed our lives
(okay, our hair) with your
rebuilding, strengthening
ways. Now that we can get
the goods at home and not
just at the salon, we’re truly
hooked. This conditioner is
another excellent addition
to the line.”

– JENNIFER GEORGE,

ELLE U.K.



HEALTH

ROOT CAUSE
Female hair loss can be an isolating experience, but arming yourself
with expert advice can help you along the turbulent journey.

By INGRIE WILLIAMS

PHOTOGRAPHY, PEXELS H istory is loaded with women who used their hair Truly You Hair & Scalp Clinic in Mississauga, Ont. (A trichologist is
to tell the world who they were. In 3500 BCE, the trained to diagnose and treat hair and scalp disorders.) “While it’s
Himba people of Namibia used braid patterns to always best to see an expert, somebody who is losing an abnor-
indicate things like tribe, age, marital status, wealth mal amount is losing it all the time,” she adds.
and religion. The flappers of the Roaring Twenties popularized the
bob, which signalled a cutting of ties with gender norms. And the If you’ve detected an ongoing issue, a consultation with a
mullet trend of 2020? Spearheaded by Miley Cyrus and Rihanna, medical professional can help you determine the “why” from
it felt like a badass disruptive call to action that encouraged a list of common causes, including alopecia areata, an auto-
embracing one’s unique identity in a time of change. There are a immune disorder. “The body’s immune system can attack the
lot of emotions—from empowerment to sensuality—tied up in our hair follicle, causing [the hair] to fall out,” says Beleznay. “With this
hair, which is why the sight of departing strands, and everything condition, hair loss can begin suddenly and without warning.”
that follows, unleashes a whole slew of feelings. Joanna Auguste, a nurse practitioner and aesthetic-medicine
clinician who owns Toronto skincare and injectables clinic The
Dani Binnington, a 42-year-old U.K.-based wellness expert Face Lab, treats a lot of patients who are suffering from traction
and yoga instructor and co-founder of the Manta Healthy Hair alopecia, which is hair loss linked to damaging hairstyle habits.
Brush, knows this all too well. She grew up with long, thick waves “It’s caused by repeated pulling of the hair,” she says. “If you wear
but experienced hair loss in 2013 while undergoing chemother- your hair in a certain type of ponytail or high bun or have hair
apy for breast cancer. “My hair grew back much finer than it ever extensions, the prolonged tension can damage the hair follicle
was,” she says. “I still have areas on the top of my head that are and result in hair loss.” This condition can also occur if braids or
almost bald.” Inspired by Binnington’s experience, her hairdresser dreadlocks are your signature hairstyle, since pulling and added
husband, Tim, designed the Manta, an extra-gentle hand-held weight can stress strands.
detangling tool that minimizes the breakage of fragile strands.
The source of your hair loss could also be hanging out in
Whether hair loss is something you can see coming and try to your genes. Androgenetic alopecia, otherwise known as male
prepare for, like a side effect of medication, or an occurrence that or female pattern hair loss, is the most common type Ruggiero
strikes without warning, such as the symptom of an autoimmune sees in her clinic and one of the harder ones to treat. It’s an
condition, the resulting trauma is never insignificant. “I go through inherited trait that she describes as chronic or progressive hair
phases of feeling very uncomfortable and self-conscious about it,” loss. It tends to start with thinning at the crown of the head, and
says Binnington. “And at other times, I remind myself of how lucky according to the Canadian Dermatology Association, it can
I am to have hair in the first place and to be here to tell my story.” affect approximately 40 percent of women by age 50. “Once
Grappling with overwhelming feelings of disbelief and discomfort that hereditary predisposition is triggered, it will keep going,” she
is a challenge, but it’s normal in this situation. “The reality is that says. Hair loss doesn’t only affect older women; hormonal shifts
most hair loss is caused by conditions out of your control,” says Dr. like puberty can also kick off androgenetic alopecia. If hair loss
Katie Beleznay, a Vancouver-based dermatologist and clinical hasn’t been destined by your DNA, it’s possible that other forces
instructor in the department of dermatology at the University of have led to telogen effluvium, which is temporary hair loss. This
British Columbia. Talking to a professional can help demystify type of self-corrective condition is common following child-
what is happening as well as be a first step toward empowerment birth, and Ruggiero also sees it among women of reproduct-
and reclaiming your confidence in your appearance. ive age who have an iron deficiency. “Telogen effluvium can
occur when some stress or trigger, such as illness or medication,
It’s normal to shed between 50 and 100 hairs a day, but if you causes hair to be pushed prematurely into the resting, or telo-
notice you’re losing more than usual while brushing or shampoo- gen, phase,” says Beleznay. While most of the hairs on our head
ing, don’t be alarmed. “These aren’t good [times] to determine are actively growing (in what is called the “anagen phase”), they
hair loss because they’re when your hair has incentive to fall,” eventually enter the telogen phase and fall out. “With the onset
says Caroline Ruggiero, a certified trichologist and the CEO of

59E L L E C A N A D A . C O M

HEALTH

1.
2.

of COVID-19 and the associated stress of the pandemic, we saw 3.
an increase in this condition,” she adds.
4.
In all cases, looking more than scalp deep will help uncover
the root cause of hair loss. There are diagnostic tools, including 1. Viviscal Extra Strength Supplements ($60, viviscal.ca and shoppersdrugmart.ca).
blood work, that can be used along with a holistic assessment of 2. Women’s Rogaine Foam 5% ($130, well.ca and at drugstores and mass-market
stress levels and diet to determine the next steps. “You could be retailers). 3. Nioxin Scalp Recovery Purifying Exfoliator ($24, chatters.ca and
using all kinds of potions and lotions on your hair and think you’re amazon.ca). 4. Manta Healthy Hair Brush ($42, indigo.ca).
doing everything right, but you’re not addressing the core under-
lying cause,” explains Ruggiero. production of adenosine triphosphate, which Ruggiero calls the
“battery” of our cells. Just as vital as any treatment is sticking to a
The good news is that there are numerous ways to treat hair plan—especially when it comes to progressive hair loss, since it’s
loss, but you will need healthy doses of optimism, patience and not a temporary condition. “You have to go into it knowing that
consistency too. “Treating hair loss can be quite complex, and there’s no quick fix, that there’s no cure and that you have to do
some options are better suited to certain patients based on something consistently,” says Ruggiero.
the type of hair loss and patient characteristics,” says Beleznay.
Many of the effective go-to therapies, such as oral or topical Timelines for full results vary depending on the type of hair
minoxidil (a.k.a. Rogaine) and low-level laser therapy (LLLT), loss and treatment, but after six to 12 months, you should start
focus on increasing circulation to the hair follicle to encour- seeing a boost in strands. While experts say to be wary of bio-
age active growth. Supplements such as Nutrafol and Viviscal, tin-infused products as there’s little evidence to support their
which support healthy locks with ingredients like collagen and effectiveness, tending to your scalp with extra TLC is always
amino acids, also deserve a shout-out. And spironolactone, approved. Binnington wishes she’d received this advice during
a medication that reduces the production of androgens (or her own hair loss. “I tried to ignore that part of my body as much
male sex hormones), has also been proven to slow hair loss as I could; I did everything I could to hide it,” she says. Now, she
and kick-start regrowth. But for most people, a combination of focuses on promoting a healthy scalp for comfort and confi-
therapies is what will eventually spell success. “There is some dence and uses the soft, flexible Manta brush to perform her
data [showing that] in women with female pattern hair loss, favourite ritual. “A massage, even on a bald head, feels amaz-
spironolactone plus minoxidil can yield superior results com- ing,” says Binnington. “And feeling amazing—and good in your
pared to either on its own,” says Beleznay. skin from head to toe—is as important as looking good.”

For anyone looking for a less invasive option, platelet-rich
plasma therapy for hair restoration, which treats the scalp with a
component of your own blood and is a growing area of scientific
study, may be a fit. “There is a trend of people looking for more
‘natural’ options,” says Auguste, who offers the injectable treat-
ment. “And because it’s not a pill, it can be a bit more palatable.”
The approach uses your own assets, meaning your blood is drawn
and whipped in a centrifuge, which boosts platelet count, and
that fluid is then inserted into the areas in need. “Platelets release
growth factors,” explains Auguste. “They help the body heal and
regenerate skin and tissue.”

Whichever treatment route is determined to be best for you,
a component of at-home care will be required too. Ruggiero
combines in-clinic LLLT treatments with the use of at-home LED
helmets and a topical patch that, worn at night, boosts the for-
mation of keratin in hair, a process that happens while we sleep.
LLLT promotes microcirculation within the scalp, improving
nutrient and oxygen levels in the hair bulb and stimulating the

60 E L L E C A N A D A . C O M



BEAUTY

Larger Than Life

Having burst onto the international music scene
like a supernova, YSEULT is a performer who
makes a lasting impression.

By GABRIELLE LISA COLLARD

Y SEULT’S UNIQUE STYLE integral part of her artistic approach. art in all its forms—contemporary art PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF L’ORÉAL PARIS
(which she calls “Y-trap”), Her curves may not correspond with as much as music, beauty and fashion—
uncompromised ambition industry standards, but she has become calls to me, and the visions to illustrate
and sense of showmanship a role model for the many women who my projects come naturally,” says the
have quickly gained her a listen to and admire her and have not multi-talented star, who includes Jean-
cult following. “I believe in integrity, and seen themselves represented anywhere Michel Basquiat, Marina Abramović,
I believe in art,” says the singer in a calm until now. Yseult, with an undeniable and Damien Jalet and Xavier Dolan among
and self-assured voice over a call from disarming beauty, is an inspiration for the artists who inspire her.
Paris, a stop on her current tour. “I trust many and proof that the world is finally
my fans and am very grateful to have changing for the better. Whether she’s in the pages of maga-
such a strong relationship with them. zines, on the world’s biggest stages or
They’ve always supported me, and it’s But it’s her recent partnership with even on Twitter—where she never shies
magic that I’ve remained true to myself L’Oréal Paris—she’s been a spokesperson away from putting unkind people in their
in an industry where everything is done since June 2021—that illustrates how place—Yseult will be a force for a long
to make us lose our integrity and forget the beauty industry is joining this new time to come.
who we are.” era, which she describes as one of plural
beauty. “This role is a chance for me to 1.
When she won the Révélation embody inclusivity and diversity, to show
Féminine award at the Victoires de that beauty is universal and mixed,” she 3.
la Musique (an annual music-awards says. “It’s about empowerment, sisterhood 2.
ceremony in France) in February 2021, and equality. As a singer, I have the
the now 27-year-old star used the occa- chance to express myself through music 1. L’Oréal Paris Voluminous Noir Balm Mascara ($17).
sion to deliver a message of hope to the but also to use my body to express my 2. L’Oréal Paris Colour Riche Lipstick in Nu Extreme ($12).
cheering crowd. “The road is long for a vulnerability and strength.”
Black woman, [and] the road is long for a 3. L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Triple Power LZR 1.5%
large woman, for a woman forgotten by Yseult plans to use her new platform Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum ($39).
society, forgotten by culture...but we’re to make a difference. “I don’t have any lorealparis.ca
going to get there. It might take 10 years; beauty secrets, but I would love the chance
it might take 15 years. They don’t want to discuss creating a capsule collection for
to let us take the elevator? No problem. dark skin with L’Oréal Paris,” she says.
We’re tough; we’ll take the stairs.” Far In addition to cleansing and nourishing
from letting the music industry, a homo- her skin daily, the singer has learned to be
geneous universe, erode her uniqueness, patient with it and accept its imperfections.
Yseult has remained authentic and has As for her favourite L’Oréal Paris prod-
never apologized for it. ucts? Voluminous Noir Balm Mascara (“I
loooooove it!”), Revitalift Triple Power
Her 2020 music video for “Corps” LZR 1.5% Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum
(the French word for “body”), in which and Colour Riche Lipstick.
she appears naked under a piece of clear
plastic, has been viewed more than nine Not only is Yseult the voice and heart
million times on YouTube. The singer of her projects but she also takes on their
says she is inspired by her body, sexual- artistic direction in order to translate her
ity and sensuality and that nudity is an musical emotions into strong imagery.
“It’s a very natural role for me because

62 E L L E C A N A D A . C O M

BEAUTY

Discreet (and With its aroma of Trust the “autopilot”
water-resistant!), chocolate, vanilla and setting, which
this vibrator Bulgarian rose, this bath alternates between
has the magic bomb turns a soak in different levels of
touch for maxi- the tub into a delightfully intensity to get you
mum pleasure. decadent experience. to the highest peaks
of pleasure.
Maude Vibe three-speed Bathorium Aphrodite Romantic
personal massager ($60, Bath Bomb ($30, bathorium.com) Womanizer Premium 2
thedetoxmarket.ca) Luxurious Clitoral Stimulator
These moxibustion ($219, womanizer.com)
sticks stimulate the
body’s qi flow when
they’re placed over
meridian points
thanks to the heat
they produce.

Bloom Balance Moxibustion
Sticks ($32, bloombalance.co)

This golden mask—
enriched with reishi
mushroom, a blend of
AHAs and broad-spectrum
CBD oil—smooths texture
and evens out skin tone.

Ambari Gold Profection22 Mask
($92, ambaribeauty.com)

My Way Intense, a richer and Specially designed Just massage a drop or
more floral iteration of the for intimate regions, two of this hemp-seed-
original My Way, takes you this gentle balm- oil- and peppermint-
around the world with its notes to-oil moisturizer infused gel onto the
of Indian tuberose, Egyptian soothes dry, thin or clitoris to increase
orange blossom and New sensitive skin. sensitivity and pleasure.
Caledonian sandalwood.
Rosebud Woman Honor
Giorgio Armani My Way Eau de Parfum Everyday Balm ($120,
Intense Spray ($128 for 50 mL and $230 thedetoxmarket.ca)
for the 150 mL refill, armani-beauty.ca)
High on Love Stimulating O’Gel
($55, highonlove.ca)

SELF-LOVE
Who says Valentine’s Day is just for couples? Here’s everything
you need to celebrate the most important person in your life: you!

By THÉO DUPUIS-CARBONNEAU

63E L L E C A N A D A . C O M

BEAUTY

PToinutted

LIP BLUSH, the latest iteration of semi-permanent
lip makeup, is quickly gaining fans. Here’s what
you need to know before puckering up.

By THÉO DUPUIS-CARBONNEAU

W HILE SEMI-PERMANENT MAKEUP has a completely normal part of the healing process. It ’s essential
been around for several decades, the to not pull at or tear off the dead skin that forms on the lips and
techniques used have improved con- just let it fall off on its own to avoid altering the strength of the
siderably in recent years. The latest pigment. For a week following each appointment, I religiously
innovation? Lip blush, a cosmetic tattoo applied the vitamin-E-based ointment that was given to me
that enhances the natural colour of your pout, defines its shape to keep my lips nourished and hydrated and to support opti-
and corrects asymmetries. Thanks to more delicate tools and mal healing. If your lips seem ultra-bright after the first session,
a new generation of natural pigments, the harshly drawn lips don’t panic! The colour gradually fades by 30 to 50 percent
of the 1990s have evolved into an elegant and subtle result as your lips heal, leaving you with a very natural shade. At my
that’s more “your lips but better.” Intrigued, I decided to take the second appointment, I even asked Dingle to apply a slightly
plunge and made my way to Montreal’s Alkhemist beauty studio darker colour.
(which is set to open a Toronto location in March 2022) to bene-
fit from the expertise of incredibly skilled technician Ace Dingle THE RESULT
(@ace.alkhemist).
I LOVE my lip blush! It looks subtle and has defined my mouth and
HOW DOES IT WORK? made an annoying scar on my lower lip less noticeable. My lips
look fuller, and, best of all, they have an evenly contoured outline
After an initial consultation to determine my desired shade—a that doesn’t look too defined. Dingle chose the tint perfectly—it
rose similar to the natural tint of my lips—I headed back to was just what I had in mind. In general, the effect lasts between
Alkhemist for the first of my two lip-blush sessions. Before we two and three years, depending on your skin type and the care
started, Dingle applied an anaesthetizing cream to my lips to you give your lips. Dingle recommends using a lip balm that
numb them and minimize pain during the procedure. She then includes sun protection to optimize pigment hold.
contoured my lips with a makeup pencil to define their shape
and correct their slight asymmetry. Once I approved the result, GOOD TO KNOW
she began the tattooing process, injecting pigment using a
mechanical needle, which is essentially a more compact ver- You should avoid Aspirin and ibuprofen before an appointment
sion of a tattoo gun. During the first session, which lasted about because they thin the blood and this can make your lips more
an hour and a half, Dingle completed two full passes on my lips; sensitive. If you’re prone to cold sores, you should know that the
three additional passes were needed at my second appoint- procedure could trigger an outbreak; it’s recommended that
ment, which took place six weeks later. you take oral antiviral medication, prescribed by a physician, the
day before your appointment as a preventive measure.

DOES IT HURT? COST

Keep in mind that a needle is repeatedly piercing your skin, so it’s Prices vary depending on the salon, but a lip blush costs $695
not pleasant. But it’s quite tolerable and much less painful than a at Alkhemist.
traditional tattoo.
PHOTOGRAPHY, IMAXTREE
HEALING AND MAINTENANCE For more information, visit alkhemist.com and the salon’s Instagram page at
@studio.alkhemist.
After each of my appointments, my lips were swollen for about
24 hours and then the skin peeled for the next week, which is

64 E L L E C A N A D A . C O M

BEAUTY

Essentials slows down the first stage of skin senescence, when cells stop
CHANEL’s latest product line dividing and begin to accumulate,” says Nathalie Volpe,
promises to pamper both our international director of innovation, research and development
skin and our senses. at Chanel. Along with this precious extract, several other
beneficial ingredients from the flower (water, oil and yeast)
By THÉO DUPUIS-CARBONNEAU help refresh the epidermis and strengthen its barrier, leaving
skin deeply revitalized. When it comes to sustainability, the
THE NO. 1 RANGE, which pays tribute to the avant-garde spirit eye cream and the face cream—the latter of which is also
and heritage of Mademoiselle Chanel, combines the brand’s refillable—have lids that are made with 90 percent bio-based
expertise trifecta: skincare, makeup and perfume. The star materials, including camellia-seed shells. A complete routine,
ingredient in the nine new products—powder-to-foam from cleanser to fragrance mist (which nose Olivier Polge
cleanser, lotion, serum, serum-in-mist, face cream, eye cream, created with sparkling floral and fruity notes), No. 1 offers a
foundation, lip and cheek balm and fragrance mist—is the holistic approach to beauty that’s more than just skin deep.
Camellia japonica flower. “Its petals are rich in protocatechuic “The line helps soothe the skin, but it also relaxes the senses,
acid, an active ingredient that affects cellular vitality and [and it does it] with quality ingredients of natural origin that
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a perfect winter antidote.

Starting from $61, chanel.com

PHOTOGRAPHY, CLARENS PRUNIER; ARTISTIC DIRECTION, ANNIE HORTH; EDITORIAL PRODUCER, ESTELLE GERVAIS

65E L L E Q U E B E C . C O M

PERIOD
Performance

How understanding your menstrual cycle
can help increase your physical capacity.

By MARIE-PHILIPPE JEAN

HEALTH

W OMENHAVELONGBEENLEFT on the sidelines in Where do we start if we want to move in rhythm with
the area of scientific sports research, especially our cycles?
when it comes to how our bodies perform “This is a sometimes frustrating answer, but since the data is still
throughout our menstrual cycles. Why? The limited, it’s important to read, question and analyze existing infor-
default answer is often that the female hormonal mation. The next step is to track your cycle to get to know it. After
system is too complex to be properly studied. And yet this system, all, our personal data is more valuable than data gathered about
driven by estrogen and progesterone, influences our need for a group of women who might not be like us. The follicular phase
nutrition, hydration, activity and rest. Taking the menstrual cycle seems to be the optimal time for strength and intensity training,
out of the equation when looking at athletic performance and but only four studies have presented these results, which is why it’s
training is a missed opportunity to optimize results. But thanks important to assess and explore what works best for each of us.”
to a handful of female scientists, including Kelly McNulty, a
Ph.D. candidate at Northumbria University in Newcastle, U.K., How has analyzing and understanding your cycle
and founder of Period of the Period, an organization aimed at affected your golf performance?
changing the narrative around women’s health and performance “There are studies that show that progesterone has a negative
in sports, this area of study has increasingly become the subject influence on the part of the brain that’s linked to coordination
of research. We spoke with McNulty about how to change the and precision, and I’ve noticed this myself: Alignment with my
discourse on women’s health, understand the link between our target is a skill that worsens slightly during my luteal phase.
cycles and our performance and, most importantly, listen to I have adapted my practice in order to be more successful.
our bodies. That’s the key: By knowing your cycle well, you can develop
customized strategies. If you experience breast pain during
I have a theory that our life mission is sometimes born your period but still want to work out, one strategy might be
out of what made us suffer as a teenager. Do you agree? to choose a sports bra that offers greater support. If you notice
“Absolutely. I’m studying the effects of menstrual cycles because high energy levels a few days before ovulation, take advantage
when I played competitive golf, I was well aware that my cycle of them to achieve your running goals.”
affected my performance even though no one talked to me about
it. If the scientific evidence had been available at the time, I We live in a culture that focuses on performance
would have benefited from it [and been able] to overcome the consistency, but should we actually be listening to our
challenges I was facing.” body’s cyclical needs?
“Yes! The more we adapt to our cycles, the more we will see
What accounts for the lack of interest in the female improvements and the more effective we will become, which
hormonal system? could motivate us to practise gentler mobility movements or
“In the 19th century, scientists discouraged women from any take the rest we need at key times of the month.”
physical activity under the pretext that running or jumping
could damage their reproductive organs. It wasn’t until the What has made the greatest impact on you since
1960s that the opportunity to participate in sports activities beginning these studies?
presented itself. That’s pretty recent, and while women’s pres- “I started in this field with the preconception that certain phases
ence in sports has increased in recent years to equal men’s, of the menstrual cycle make women weaker and slower. This is
science still has some catching up to do. Another factor could not the case. Instead, I’ve learned that we are powerful, strong
be that there are more men than women working in sports and and fast throughout the month. Many world records and medals
exercise science. But that’s no excuse. We need to do better.” have been won by women during each phase of the menstrual
cycle. So, the question is: Can we be even faster, stronger and
What are the different phases of the menstrual cycle? more powerful? It’s not about being limited; [it’s about] using
“Let’s take a typical 28-day cycle. Day one is the first day of our physiology to feel better and get more out of our workouts.”
menstruation. At this time, estrogen and progesterone levels are
PHOTOGRAPHY, ROYAL GILBERT at their lowest. Around day five, estrogen levels start to climb until FOR MORE INFORMATION ON HOW YOUR MENSTRUAL
they peak just before ovulation on day 11 or 12. Ovulation is the CYCLE AFFECTS YOUR PERFORMANCE, CHECK OUT
release of an egg and indicates the midpoint of the cycle. The THESE INSTAGRAM ACCOUNTS:
next phase involves a brief drop in estrogen before it climbs back
up again as well as a rise in progesterone. If fertilization doesn’t Period of the Period Period Power The Well HQ
occur, hormone levels drop again and a new cycle begins. The
cycle can be summarized in two phases: the follicular phase, @periodoftheperiod @_maisiehill @thewell_hq
before ovulation, and the luteal phase, which follows ovulation.”

67E L L E C A N A D A . C O M

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fashion

FEBRUARY/
MARCH

Individual style.

PHOTOGRAPHY, ROYAL GILBERT

PROFILE

RECLAIMING THEIR

CULTURE
On the front lines of change for their communities,
four trailblazers are honouring the legacy of Inuit.

By CAMILLE CARDIN-GOYER Photographer OUMAYMA B. TANFOUS
Stylist SAMUEL FOURNIER Art direction MARIE-MICHÈLE LEDUC

M odel Willow Allen, designer Victoria raising her. “To Inuit, the words ‘community’ and ‘family’
Kakuktinniq, throat singer and TikToker are interchangeable,” says the Nunavummiut. “We help
Shina Novalinga and actor Marika Sila one another by supporting and uplifting one another, by
have more in common than a large following. The Inuit learning through observation and mentorship and by
tastemakers—all dedicated advocates for Indigenous caring for others.”
peoples—are leveraging their platforms to help shape
the Canada of tomorrow. In partnership with Canada Kakuktinniq has been inspired by the strong women in
Goose, the four women are highlighting the need for more her life, many of whom were seamstresses. She witnessed
Indigenous role models and the importance of breaking from a young age how her mother, grandmother and
down barriers for future generations and challenging those sister all relied on traditional Inuit sewing skills, passed
in power to bring their reconciliation commitments to life. down through the generations, to make cold-weather
As part of Project Atigi (“atigi” is Inuktitut for “parka”), garments. Her haute-couture work presented at Paris
Canada Goose’s social-entrepreneurship initiative, the and New York fashion weeks was directly inspired by
brand commissioned Inuit designers—descendants of the her grandmother’s garments.
original parka makers—across Inuit Nunangat (Canada’s
four Inuit regions) to create bespoke jackets using traditional But for the designer and creator of Victoria’s Arctic
skills and designs, the proceeds of which will go to Inuit Fashion (V.A.F.), making her way to some of the world’s
Tapiriit Kanatami, a non-profit working to improve Inuit biggest fashion gigs has been no easy feat. “Starting out
health and well-being. Kakuktinniq was a guest designer was very difficult,” she says. “The cost of bringing materi-
for Project Atigi’s latest capsule collection, and it’s modelled als and machinery to Nunavut is significant; they must
by Allen, Novalinga and Sila. So whether they are on a be brought in via either cargo plane or sealift, and the
film set, strutting the runway, showing at fashion week expense is astronomical.” Rent for commercial space in
or educating on TikTok, these women are bringing the the North is also high—eight years into running V.A.F.,
stories of their people to life—a testimony to Indigenous Kakuktinniq has had to move shop three times in three
resilience in the face of ongoing adversity. different communities, often shifting plans to keep up
with operating costs.
VICTORIA KAKUKTINNIQ
But thanks to the support of her community,
Born and raised in the remote community of Rankin Kakuktinniq’s business has been thriving, both in the
Inlet, Nvt., Victoria Kakuktinniq has always been deeply North and on social media, leading her to partner with
immersed in Inuit culture. She grew up surrounded by Canada Goose. “It’s so empowering for me, my community
family, friends and neighbours who all shared in the task of and other Inuit women,” she says. “There is something
so intimate and beautiful about truly embracing and
celebrating who we are and where we come from and
carrying forward the traditions of our people.”

70 E L L E C A N A D A . C O M

Top (Isa Boulder) and
headpiece and necklace

(Novalinga’s own)

SHINA NOVALINGA

Sweater and pants
(Rick Owens) and
earrings (Sila’s own)

MARIKA SILA

PROFILE

ON KAKUKTINNIQ: COAT (THEORY, AT HOLT RENFREW), SWEATER (CANADA GOOSE), PANTS (LE17SEPTEMBRE, AT HOLT RENFREW) AND PUMPS (SAINT LAURENT, AT HOLT RENFREW). ON ALLEN: DRESS (STELLA MCCARTNEY, AT HOLT RENFREW) AND EARRING (ORA-C). ON SILA: BLAZER, TOP AND PANTS (ANDREW COIMBRA) AND SHINA NOVALINGA people. “I will never change myself or my image because I
BOOTS (SILA’S OWN). ON NOVALINGA: TOP (3_3_4_7), PANTS (LISA YANG, AT HOLT RENFREW), EARRINGS (NOVALINGA’S OWN) AND BOOTS (CANADA GOOSE) You’ve likely come across Inuk throat singer Shina Novalinga know my strength comes from my identity as an Inuvialuk
on TikTok performing traditional duets with her mother or woman,” she says. “Wear your traditional dress with pride,
imitating sounds of nature and animals in harmonious rhythms. learn your language and speak to your elders. We are strong,
Born in Puvirnituq, Nunavik, and raised in Montreal, the we are resilient and we are Indigenous.”
23-year-old has garnered an impressive following of more
than 3.7 million on TikTok since posting her first video almost
two years ago. The college student has been using the app to
educate fans about the history of Indigenous peoples and the
Inuit way of life by sharing snackable clips, answering questions
and promoting traditional regalia made by local Inuit creators.

But being a public figure has had its challenges. “I deal with a lot
of discriminatory comments, which weigh on my mental health,”
admits Novalinga. “I’ve learned that in order to make change, I
have to look past those [comments] and focus on the positive—the
love and support that I’m also getting.” By “change,” she means
helping create a safe space where every Indigenous community
feels represented and valued. “It’s fundamental that people know
that they’re capable of reaching any goal they set for themselves,
and this starts with feeling included and cared for by society.”

Growing up, Novalinga didn’t feel there was such a space
for her to become a successful Indigenous woman. “I felt like
no one cared,” she says. “But things are slowly starting to
change, and I want to use my voice to amplify and accelerate
that change.” Novalinga has come to realize that success
ultimately comes from loving yourself and being proud of
who you are. “Reclaiming our culture, traditions and values
requires hard work,” she says. “But it’s by fully realizing who
we are that we’ll break the cycle of intergenerational trauma.”

WILLOW ALLEN MARIKA SILA
Willow Allen grew up in Inuvik, NWT, a small Arctic com- Badass multi-hyphenate Marika Sila is a Yellowknife-born
munity where locals experience an average of 30 days of polar Inuvialuk actor, influencer and activist who specializes in
night every winter. “I was raised in both worlds,” says the stunts and special skills for TV and film (nunchaku, staff and
23-year-old Inuvialuk model. “I learned to live off the land sword handling, hoop dancing and fire spinning). Growing
at my family’s bush camp, hunting and trapping the way my up, Sila didn’t have role models who looked like her and were
ancestors did and being told traditional stories by my parents, achieving their dreams—aside from her older brother, two-time
and attended school and university in Saskatchewan.” While Olympic cross-country skier Jesse Cockney. But that didn’t stop
initially her goal was to follow in her mother’s footsteps and her from making her way onto the big screen.
go into social work, Allen was launched into an unexpected
modelling career after being spotted by an agency on social Today, she’s all about increasing opportunity for Indigenous
media a couple of years ago. youth by pressuring the Canadian government to stand by its
commitment to improve diversity in the mainstream media and
“It has been so empowering to represent the beauty and within leadership positions in the corporate world, which she
culture of my people,” she says. “[With] this platform, I’m hoping believes is an essential step toward reconciliation. “Government
to inspire younger generations and raise awareness about the officials and the general public need to be seeking knowledge
issues that Indigenous peoples face.” One of these issues is the and guidance directly from Indigenous peoples,” says Sila,
intergenerational trauma that’s a result of residential schools; who’s currently producing her first documentary film, What’s
it’s what prompted Allen’s dream to work in mental health in Next? On Canada’s RedPath to Reconciliation.
her community of just under 3,400. “We will not forget the
children who never made it back home, the survivors and Following the recent discoveries of residential-school gravesites,
their descendants who are hurting or the attempts to erase Sila made it a goal to educate the public about the long-term
Indigenous culture in the name of assimilation.” effects of the Indian residential-school system and how we can
help pave the way for reconciliation. In 2022, she plans to travel
For Allen, there’s still a long way to go on the path to recon- across the country and talk to Indigenous elders, community
ciliation. “Having a National Day for Truth and Reconciliation leaders and influencers to get a sense of what they think needs
is a start,” she says. “Beginning to search residential-school sites to happen for Canada to move forward in the best possible way.
for unmarked graves is a start. Acknowledging that Indigenous “I want to create a hub where Canadians can learn about our
women and girls are missing is a start. Canada is just starting.” country’s history and relationship with Indigenous peoples,”
Proudly embracing Inuit culture is Allen’s way of calling for says Sila. “I believe that where there is understanding, there
more significant change, which will lend to the healing of her is compassion, and racism dies in the face of compassion.”

73E L L E C A N A D A . C O M

PROFILE

Top and pants
(Kakuktinniq’s own)

VICTORIA KAKUKTINNIQ

Dress (3_3_4_7)
and earrings (Marni,

at Holt Renfrew)
For details, see Shopping

Guide. Makeup artist,
Nicolas Blanchet (Folio

Montreal/Charlotte
Tilbury); hairstylist, Steven

Turpin (Oribe); editorial
producer, Estelle Gervais;
photographer’s assistant,

Emily V. Gilbert; stylist’s
assistant, Ana Lontos; set
coordinator, Laura Malisan

WILLOW ALLEN

THE KEY TO ETERNAL
YOUTH LIES IN THE
ENDLESS POWER
OF SELF-EXPRESSION.

Photographer ROYAL GILBERT
Stylist NARIMAN JANGHORBAN

On Piero: Jacket and hat (100 Percent
Silk) and earrings (model’s own).
On Cocotte: Jacket and earrings

(Bottega Veneta) and vintage hat
(Berman & Co.)

Creative direction by Annie Horth

Dress and bag
(Fendi) and earrings
(Jenny Bird)

Opposite page: Trench,
pants, bags and scarf
(Balenciaga)

78 E L L E C A N A D A . C O M





Dress (J.W.Anderson), purse worn
as a hat (COS) and sneakers
(Alexander McQueen)

Opposite page: Jacket and
trousers (Gabriela Hearst), shirt
(Black Brown 1826, at Hudson’s
Bay) and scarf and earrings
(stylist’s own)

Dress and turtleneck
(Marc Jacobs)

Opposite page:
Jumpsuit (Emilio Pucci)
and scarves and
bracelet (Hermès)

82 E L L E C A N A D A . C O M



Jacket (Levi’s), dress (Loewe),
vintage jeans (Berman & Co.),
sunglasses (Alexander McQueen),
bracelets (Carole Tanenbaum
Vintage Collection) and slippers
(Dries Van Noten)

Opposite page: Dress (Dries Van
Noten), vintage gloves and boa
(Berman & Co.), earrings (stylist’s
own) and boots (Dolce & Gabbana)

85E L L E C A N A D A . C O M



Blazer, shirt and trousers
(Louis Vuitton), hat
(Tierre Taylor) and

earrings (stylist’s own)

Opposite page:
Bomber and jacket
(Sacai), trousers, belts
and hat (Berman & Co.)
and boots (Coach)

87E L L E C A N A D A . C O M

88 E L L E C A N A D A . C O M Coat and shirt (Prada)

Opposite page: On
Alexa: Coat, shirt, skirt
and shoes (Prada),
tights (stylist’s own) and
earrings (model’s own).
On Tian: Coat, shirt, skirt,
belt, bag and shoes
(Prada), tights (stylist’s
own) and earring
(model’s own)





Dress and boots (Christian Dior)
and bracelets (model’s own)

Opposite page: Hat, purses,
hair accessories, necklaces,
brooches and bracelets
(Chanel), tank top, boxers and
vintage jeans (Berman & Co.)
and vintage belt, necklaces and
bracelets (Chanel, at Carole
Tanenbaum Vintage Collection)

91E L L E C A N A D A . C O M



Top, skirt and
gloves (Gucci)

Opposite page: Dress,
leggings and sandals
(Proenza Schouler) and
gloves (Berman & Co.)



Coat, top, trousers and purse (Chloé) and earrings (Jenny Bird) 95E L L E C A N A D A . C O M

Opposite page: Cape (Thom Browne), toques (Berman & Co.) and earrings
(model’s own)

For details, see Shopping Guide. Models, Romy (Folio Montreal), Rin (Humankind), Piero (Faces),
Nissi and Tian (Elite Toronto), Elisabeth (Specs Models) and Cocotte, Arielle and Alexa; makeup artist,
Leslie-Ann Thomson (The Project/M•A•C Cosmetics and La Mer); hairstylist, Andrew Ly (Oribe);
editorial producer, Estelle Gervais; photographer’s assistants, Aljosa Alijagic and Mitchell Wright;
stylist’s assistants, Manuela Bartolomeo and Ana Lontos; makeup artist’s assistant, Melina Di Bernardo;
hairstylist’s assistant, Alvin Mazariegos; editorial producer’s assistant, Isabelle Allain

LET’S HEAR

It for THE BOYS

JACQUEMUS

MENSWEAR is finally coming out to play.

By CAITLIN AGNEW

96 E L L E C A N A D A . C O M

“THIS YOUNGER FASHION
GENERATION HAS BEEN
THINKING OF GENDER 97E L L E C A N A D A . C O M
AS A CONSTRUCT RATHER
THAN SOMETHING THAT

HAS BEEN IMPOSED
UPON THEM, AND

DESIGNERS ARE
REACTING TO THAT.”

PHOTOGRAPHY, IMAXTREE (JACQUEMUS), GETTY (D. BOWIE) & ALAMY (PRINCE) CYNDI LAUPER FAMOUSLY SANG, “Girls just wanna have fun,” David Bowie
and nowhere is that more apparent than in the fashion world. Prince
Where womenswear designers consistently push the bound-
aries of clothing through experimental materials, colours and
silhouettes, menswear has, of late, been rather stiff, buttoned
up and dull—at least in North America. But with traditional
binary gender norms being challenged and rapidly evolving
technology encouraging a global connection, that sense of
playful experimentation is making a major return to men’s
fashion. It’s finally time for everyone to get in on the fun.

In March, Fashioning Masculinities: The Art of Menswear will
open at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, England.
Sponsored by Gucci, the exhibition promises an exploration
of the current unprecedented creativity in men’s fashion—a
renaissance seen on the spring/summer 2022 runways, where
some of the top trends included skirts, cut-outs and the colour
pink. Midriffs were on display at Jacquemus, with models
sporting asymmetrical crop tops and bra tops, while at GMBH,
off-the-shoulder tops and blouses knotted at the waist called
to mind the glamour girls of Old Hollywood. At Prada, soft
baby pink made an appearance, as did the mini skort. In
keeping with his vein of post-apocalyptic chic, Rick Owens
offered bodysuits with cut-outs as well as footwear with high
heels. Even higher heels were spotted at Saint Laurent, which
creative image director Anthony Vaccarello paired with black
skinny jeans and a regal yellow cape worn over a bare chest,
exemplifying the collection’s “new romanticism” theme. And
at Louis Vuitton, the late menswear artistic director Virgil
Abloh explored acidic shades of pink and purple, skirts and
cinched waists. “I try to create the world as I would like to see
it in real life,” he told Vogue.com about the collection.

For many designers, glimpses of that idealized world are a
very real source of inspiration. “I think of contemporary fashion
as [if it were] contemporary art,” says Michelle Tolini Finamore,
a fashion and design curator and museum consultant based in
Salem, Mass. She explains that when fashion designers create
their collections, they are often responding to what they see on
the streets. At this moment in time, it’s the erosion of gender
binaries. “This younger generation has been thinking of gender
as a construct rather than something that has been imposed
upon them, and designers are reacting to that,” she says.

GMBH colours and tones,” she says. She points to times of dramatic
social upheaval as instances where men’s fashion challenged
Take Montreal-based fashion designer Andrew Coimbra, the status quo—like 1960s counterculture, for example. It led
who has been subverting the traditions of menswear from day to the “peacock revolution,” during which young men grew
one. “Even when I was doing historically traditional menswear, their hair long and championed colourful clothing with vivid
my goal was never to do it in that context alone,” says Coimbra, psychedelic patterns and even lace trim. “That’s because the
explaining that his designs for men have included curvy cuts ’60s and ’70s [were] this moment of great cultural upheaval,”
and colours that have typically been considered feminine but she says. “[There was] this ‘Youthquake,’ as Diana Vreeland
maintain an overall masculinity. “In those sorts of situations, termed it. This questioning of everything, really.”
I take inspiration from the womenswear world, but I still do it
in a men’s way,” he says. “I was not necessarily adhering 100 Today, that social upheaval is playing out online. “What we
percent to traditionally masculine values, but I was keeping have seen is that it’s liberating to be able to present yourself in a
my toe in that pool.” Now, with his gender-neutral collection, certain way on Instagram or whatever you use and that folks are
Coimbra is exploring inclusive silhouettes with form-fitting not only more comfortable expressing themselves but have also
terrazzo prints, backless jackets and asymmetrical crop tops. found their communities through that,” says Tolini Finamore of
the new-found sense of freedom displayed by millennials and gen
The novelty of these types of designs feels fresh in our Z. In the information age, clothing’s primary function is often to
heteronormative world, but historically, men in florals is say something to your community—a concept American artist
hardly groundbreaking. Tolini Finamore examined some of Emily Segal considers in her 2020 book, Mercury Retrograde. “The
the historical instances where men’s fashion incorporated what rise of fast fashion, as well as the globalization of both trade and
today would be widely considered as hallmarks of feminine visual codes, had contributed to a situation where the intellectual
design for Gender Bending Fashion, an exhibition she curated for property of fashion eclipsed its physicality,” she writes. “Before,
the Museum of Fine Arts Boston in 2019. “If you go back to the fashion physically dressed people first, and communicated with
18th century, for example, and you look at the courts of Louis them second. Now it began to communicate with them primarily,
XIV or at any kind of men’s attire, there was definitely more and cover their bodies as an afterthought. Put simply, fashion
freedom in terms of men wearing what would be perceived turned into information.”
as typically feminine today—the florals, the laces, the pastel
Models and twins Whak and Mo, based in Hamilton,
Ont., are fluent in this visual code and say that it’s never been
about who the clothes were intended for but how you put them
together. The duo regularly wear traditionally feminized items
like baby tees and pearls (an accessory that streetwear website
Highsnobiety says “isn’t going anywhere,” having become a
fixture around the necks of A$AP Rocky and Harry Styles) as
well as women’s clothing. “Women have more options, more
styles, more colours—just more everything you could go into,”
says Mo. “We try to put them together in a more masculine
way so that they’ll be embraced by a typical guy,” adds Whak.
The pair shop nearly exclusively at second-hand and vintage
stores, something they say has helped liberate them from the
confines of the his and hers sections. “There are no rules because
they’re just there,” Mo says of vintage racks.

It’s a shift in acceptance that Whak and Mo say has a
lot to do with the style choices of those in the public eye.
“Pop culture is moving toward the idea that clothes are just

98 E L L E C A N A D A . C O M

FASHION

clothes,” says Whak. Take actors Jake Gyllenhaal, who wore
a baby-pink Prada tuxedo to the Tony Awards in September,
and Jason Mamoa, who famously rolled up to the Oscars
wearing a pink Fendi suit with a matching scrunchie on his
wrist. Musicians—like David Bowie, Prince, Boy George and
Kurt Cobain (who had a thing for floral skirts and dresses and
provided major inspiration for Dries Van Noten’s newest mens-
wear collection)—have a legacy of breaking fashion’s gender
rules. Then there’s the traditionally hyper-masculine world
of sports, home to athletes like Los Angeles Lakers basketball
player Russell Westbrook (who was spotted in an ankle-length
white kilt at New York Fashion Week), former Toronto Raptor
Serge Ibaka (who is rarely seen without a colourful print) and
former NBA champion Dennis Rodman (whose spaghetti
straps, bare midriff and technicolour hair were the epitome
of 1990s style). (“[Rodman] is so cool it’s ridiculous,” says Mo.)

When studies have shown that creativity can boost your
mental health, it only makes sense that everyone should be
able to fully express themselves through fashion. How fun
would that be?

PRADA

PHOTOGRAPHY, IMAXTREE SAINT LAURENT

99E L L E C A N A D A . C O M

Northern
Reflections

Through Project Atigi, CANADA GOOSE hands the reins
to Inuit designer Victoria Kakuktinniq.

S ince its inception, Canada Goose has had an indelible connection to the PHOTOGRAPHY, CANADA GOOSE
North. Come January, the brand will be celebrating the original parka makers
by honouring the traditions and legacy of Inuit design. That’s the story behind
Project Atigi (atigi means “parka” in Inuktitut), a social entrepreneurship
program in its third year. Project Atigi is rooted in Canada Goose’s purpose

platform, HUMANATURE, which unites its sustainability and values-based initiatives, under-

scoring its purpose to keep the planet cold and the people on it warm. Project Atigi spotlights

Inuit craftsmanship, novel design and the rich stories that are woven into these garments.