2022-03-01 Popular Woodworking

THE OUTDOOR ISSUE: Projects to Get You Outside

APRIL 2022 | #264

BUILD AN

OUTDOOR
KITCHEN

SHOP TIPS SEATING TOOLS

Working with Metal Woven-Seat Stainless Steel
in the Wood Shop Outdoor Chair
Grilling Tools

PURVEYORS OF
FINE MACHINERY®

SINCE 1983

Quality Machines, Great Prices!

6" BENCHTOP JOINTER DOUBLE-BEVEL SLIDING 1 HP DUST COLLECTOR

• Motor: 11⁄ 2 HP, 120V, • Knife type: SK5 steel, COMPOUND MITER SAWS • Motor: 1 HP, 110V, single-phase, 8A
• Air suction capacity: 500 CFM
single-phase, 10A single-sided • Motor: 2 HP, 110V, • Aluminum crosscut fence with • Static pressure: 2.76"
• Bag filtration: 30-micron
• Max. width of cut: 6" • Knife size: 61⁄4" L x 7⁄ 8" W x 1⁄16" T single-phase,15A extensions • Bag capacity: 2.3 cubic feet
• Intake hole size: 4"
• Max. depth of cut: 1⁄8" • Table size: 61⁄4" x 30" • Blade size: • 10 indexed miter angles • Impeller:

• Min. workpiece length: 10" • Fence size: 193⁄4" L x 45⁄16" H 10" dia., 5⁄ 8" arbor • Adjustable hold-down bracket 9" balanced steel, radial fin
• Bag size:
• Min. stock thickness: 1⁄ 2" • Dust port size: 21⁄ 2" • Arbor speed: 3800 RPM
141⁄ 2" dia. x 23" D (each)
• Number of cuts per minute: • Footprint: 91⁄ 2" x 191⁄ 2" • LED worklight • Footprint: 15" x 251⁄ 2"
• Overall dimensions:
24,000 • Overall dimensions: • Laser for guided cuts
251⁄ 2 W x 15" L x 63" H
• Cutterhead diameter: 17⁄8" 30" W x 171⁄ 2" D x 13" H • 10" or 12" x 48T 184892 • Approx. ship weight: 67 lbs.

• Cutterhead type: 2-Row • Approx. shipping weight: • 11⁄ 2" dust port with dust MADE
IN AN FACTORY
straight-knife 44 lbs. collection bag
WARNING! †1
• Cutterhead speed:
G8027 ONLY $28000
12,000 RPM

MADE
IN AN FACTORY

MADE WARNING! †1 $49
IN AN FACTORY $149
10" BLADE
WARNING! †1 262149
T31634 ONLY $39900
G0945 ONLY $29500
12" BLADE

T31635 ONLY $42900

2 HP CANISTER DUST COLLECTOR 12" VARIABLE-SPEED BENCHTOP 14" HEAVY-DUTY FLOOR DRILL PRESS

• Impeller Motor: 2 HP, 220V, DRILL PRESS WITH LASER MADE • Motor: 3⁄4 HP, 120V, single-phase, 7.5A
IN AN FACTORY • Swing: 14"
single-phase, 9A • Motor: 1⁄ 3 HP, 120V, • Spindle taper: MT #2
single-phase, 5.1A • Spindle travel: 31⁄4"
• Main inlet size: 6" with three 4" • Number of speeds:

adapter inlets 2-Year • Swing: 12" 12 12, 140–3050 RPM
• Airflow capacity: Warranty! • Drilling capacity: 3⁄4" steel
• Spindle taper: MT#2 • Drill chuck: 3⁄ 64"5⁄ 8"
1103 CFM @ 3.5" SP • Table tilts: 90° left and right
• Spindle travel: 31⁄ 2" • Table swing: 360°
• Table size: 113⁄ 8" x 113⁄ 8"
• Max. static pressure: 11.95" • Spindle speeds: • Footprint: 18" x 11"
• Overall height: 64"
• Filtration rating: 1-micron Variable, 400 - 2700 RPM • Approx. shipping weight: 156 lbs.

• Filter surface area: 80 sq. ft. • Drill chuck: 1⁄ 32" - 5⁄ 8", JT3, keyless

• Impeller: 123⁄4" radial fin • Drilling capacity: 5⁄8" mild steel

• Machine collection capacity • Max. distance from spindle to table: 131⁄4"

at same time: 3 • Table dimensions: 95⁄ 8" x 95⁄ 8"

• Collection capacity: • Table tilt: 45° left/right

3 1⁄ 2 gallons • Table swivel around column: 360°

• Dimensions: • T-slots: (x4) 1⁄ 2", X pattern

39" W x 311⁄2" D x 76" H • Overall dimensions:

• Approx. shipping 13" W x 22" D x 36" H

weight: 165 lbs. • Approx. shipping weight: 93 lbs. MADE
IN AN FACTORY

WARNING! †1 WARNING! †1 WARNING! †1 184841

SB1100 ONLY $124900 $179 T31739 ONLY $45000 $69 G7944 ONLY $59500 $149

8" X 13" BENCHTOP WOOD LATHE 16" X 46" WOOD LATHE WITH DRO 18" X 47" HEAVY-DUTY WOOD LATHE

• Motor: 1⁄ 3 HP, 120V, • Footprint: 51⁄ 2" x 231⁄ 2" • Motor: 2 HP, 110V, single- • Spindle speeds: Variable, • Motor (with inverter): 2 HP, • Distance between

single-phase, 4A • Overall dimensions: phase, 14A 600–2400 RPM 220V, 3-phase, 5.6 centers: 47"

• Swing over bed: 8" 29" W x 101⁄ 2" D x 13" H • Swing over bed: 16" • Headstock rotation: 0°, • Required power supply: • Spindle speed: Variable,

• Swing over tool rest base:5" • Approx. shipping weight: • Swing over tool rest: 131⁄2" 60°, 90°, 120°, and 180° 220V, single-phase, min. 100–3200 RPM

• Distance between centers: 13" 52 lbs. • Spindle taper: MT#2 • Overall dimensions: 15A circuit • Tailstock taper: MT#2

• Floor to center height: 93⁄4" • Spindle thread size: 721⁄2" W x 19" D x 48"H • Swing over bed: 18" • Overall dimensions:
• Swing over tool: 14" 81" W x 191⁄2" D x 481⁄16" H
• Spindle speed: 1" x 8 TPI RH • Approx. shipping
• Approx. shipping weight:
Variable, 750-3200 RPM • Tailstock taper: MT#2 weight: 354 lbs.
550 lbs.
• Spindle threads: 3⁄4" x 16 TPI RH

• Spindle taper: MT#1

• Tailstock taper: MT#1

4000909 MADE $179 4000909 $239
IN AN FACTORY
MADE MADE
IN AN FACTORY WARNING! †1 IN AN FACTORY

WARNING! †1 G0462 ONLY $119500 WARNING! †1

T32536 ONLY $26000 G0733 ONLY $239500

*To maintain machine warranty, 440V operation requires additional conversion time and a $250 fee. Please contact technical service for complete information before ordering.

TECHNICAL SERVICE: 570-546-9663 WARNING! †1 : Cancer & Reproductive Harm DISCOVER HUNDREDS
OF PRODUCT VIDEOS
Some products we sell can expose you to chemicals known to the State of
California to cause cancer and/or birth defects or other reproductive harm. grizzly.com

For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/product

Please visit grizzly.com for up-to-date pricing.

• Almost a million square feet packed to the rafters with machinery & tools FREE 2022
• 2 Overseas quality control offices staffed with qualified Grizzly engineers CATALOG
• Huge parts facility with over 1 million parts in stock at all times
• Trained service technicians at both locations OVER 500 PAGES OF HIGH
• Most orders ship the same day QUALITY MACHINES & TOOLS

AT INCREDIBLE PRICES

10" 2 HP BENCHTOP TABLE SAW 10" 3 HP 240V CABINET TABLE SAW 6" X 79" EDGE SANDER
- POLAR BEAR SERIES
• Motor: 2 HP, 120V, single-phase, 15A • Motor: 3 HP, 240V, single- • Floor-to-table height: 34"

• Table size: 263⁄ 8" W x 321⁄4" D phase, 14A • Arbor diameter: 5⁄8" • Motor: 11⁄ 2 HP,110V/220V • Steel idler roller: 23⁄4"
• Arbor speed: variable,
• Rip capacity: 32" right, 14" left • Arbor speed: 4200 RPM (prewired 110V), • Footprint: 37" L x 161⁄ 2" W

2000-4000 RPM of blade • Max. width of dado: 13⁄16" single-phase, 14A ⁄ 7A • Overall dimensions: 51" W x

• Blade tilt: Left, 45° • Max. depth of cut @ 90°: 3" • Overall dimensions: 66" W • Sanding belt speed: 231⁄2" D x 40" H

• Max. depth of cut: • Max. depth of cut @ 45°: 21⁄ 8" x 47" D x 393⁄4" H 2600 FPM • Approx. shipping weight:

31⁄ 8" @ 90°, 21⁄4" @ 45° • Assembled table size: • Footprint: 201⁄ 2" x 201⁄ 2" • Sanding belt size: 6" x 79" 199 lbs.

• Rip capacity: 28" right 40" W x 27" D • Approx. shipping weight: • Sanding belt tilt: 90°

• Dado capacity: 13⁄16" • Distance from front of table to 508 lbs. • Edge table dimensions:
• Dust port: 21⁄ 2"
• Overall size: 28" W x 371⁄2" D x 201⁄2" center of blade: 17" 311⁄4" L x 93⁄ 8" W

H (G0869); 411⁄ 2" W x 371⁄ 2" D x 41" H (G0870) C US • Edge table travel: 31⁄ 2"
• Approx. shipping weight: 72 lbs. (G0869);
Table Saw 93K7 • Edge and end table tilt:
E98714
0-45°

106 lbs. (G0870) • End table: 205⁄ 8" x 93⁄ 8"

MADE 177335 • Graphite-coated platen:
IN AN FACTORY
WARNING! †1 57⁄ 8" x 321⁄4"

WARNING! †1 G1023RL ONLY $209500 MADE
IN AN FACTORY
G0869 ONLY $48995 $49 MITER GAUGE

WITH ROLLER STAND $69 $179 WARNING! †1 INCLUDED! $149

G0870 ONLY $67900 G0839P ONLY $84500

6" X 48" BELT/9" DISC COMBO 12" 1-1/2 HP BABY DRUM SANDER THE CLASSIC 14" BANDSAW
SANDER WITH CABINET STAND
• Sanding motor: 11⁄2 HP, 115V, • Overall dimensions: • Motor: 1 HP, 110V/220V (prewired
110V), single-phase, 11A⁄5.5A
• Motor: 3⁄4 HP, 110V/220V(pre- • Overall size: single-phase, 13A 27" W x 24" D x 27" H
• Max. cutting width left
wired for 110V), single-phase, 30" W x 24" D x 56" H • Conveyor motor: 1⁄8 HP, 0.3A • Approx. shipping weight: of blade: 131⁄2"

12A ⁄6A • Approx. shipping weight: • Sanding drum size: 4" 166 lbs. • Max. cutting height (resaw
capacity): 6"
• Sanding belt size: 6" x 48" 158 lbs. • Drum surface speed:
• Table size: 14" x 14"
• Sanding belt speed: 2300 FPM 2127 FPM • Table tilt: 15° left, 45° right
• Floor-to-table height: 435⁄16"
• Platen size: 61⁄4" x 17" • Max. stock dimensions: • Blade size: 931⁄2" (1⁄8" - 3⁄4" wide)
• Blade speed: 1500 and 3200 FPM
• Belt sanding head tilt: 0–90° 12" W x 31⁄2" T • Overall dimensions:

• Sanding disc diameter: 9" • Min. stock dimensions: 263⁄8" W x 301⁄4" D x 661⁄2" H
• Approx. shipping weight: 199 lbs.
• Sanding disc speed: 2450 RPM 8" L x 1⁄8" T

• Sanding disc type: PSA • Conveyor feed rate:

• Disc sanding table size: variable, 2.5–17.3 FPM

6" W x 121⁄4" L • Conveyor belt dimensions:

• Disc sanding table tilt: 0°–45° 121⁄ 2" W x 493⁄4" L

• Number of dust ports: 2 • Sanding belt size:

• Dust port sizes: 2" and 21⁄2" 3" x 70" hook and loop

• Footprint: 15" x 161⁄2" • Dust port size: 21⁄2"

WARNING! †1 $149 WARNING! †1 $149 252923 $149

G1014ZX ONLY $69500 G0459 ONLY $109500 177335 WARNING! †1

G0555 ONLY $85000

19" 3 HP EXTREME SERIES BANDSAW 3 HP SHAPER 15" 3 HP PLANER W/ CABINET STAND

• Motor: 3 HP, 220V, single-phase, 12A • Motor: 3 HP, 240V, • Footprint: 21" x 231⁄ 2" • Motor: 3 HP, 230V, single-phase, 12A
• Max. cutting width : 181⁄4"
• Max. cutting height single-phase, 12A • Overall dimensions: • Max. stock width: 15"

(resaw capacity): 12" • Max. cutter height: 21⁄ 2" 30" W x 301⁄ 2" D x 391⁄ 2" H • Max. stock thickness: 6"
• Table size: 263⁄4" x 19" x 11⁄ 2" thick
• Table tilt: 5° left, 45° right • Max. cutter diameter:51⁄2" • Approx. shipping weight: • Min. stock thickness: 3⁄16" 175370
• Floor to table height: 371⁄ 2"
• Blade size: • Spindle diameters: 392 lbs. • Min. stock length: 6" MADE
• Max. cutting depth: 1⁄8" IN AN FACTORY
141" - 143" (1⁄ 8" - 11⁄4" wide) 1⁄ 2", 3⁄4", 1"
• Blade speeds: 1700, 3500 FPM
• Footprint: 173⁄4" x 291⁄ 2" • Spindle lengths: • Cutterhead diameter: 3"
• Overall dimensions:
23⁄4", 3", 31⁄ 2" • Cutterhead type: 3-knife
36" W x 32" D x 76" H
• Approx. shipping weight: 460 lbs. • Spindle capacity under • Knife size & type:15" x 1" x 1⁄8", HSS

nut: 2", 21⁄4", 21⁄ 2" • Cutterhead speed: 5000 RPM

• Spindle speeds: • Feed rate: 16 & 28 FPM

7000 & 10,000 RPM • Table size with extensions:

• Spindle travel: 3" 15" x 50"

• Spindle openings: 11⁄2", 3", 4", 7" • Dust port size: 4"

• Table counterbore: • Footprint: 211⁄ 2" x 21"

7" dia. x 5⁄ 8" deep • Overall dimensions:

MADE • Table size: 281⁄4" x 301⁄ 2" 32" W x 50" D x 44" H
IN AN FACTORY
• Floor-to-table height: 34" • Approx. shipping weight: 517 lbs.

252923

WARNING! †1 $179 WARNING! †1 $179 WARNING! †1 $239

G0514X ONLY $219500 G1026 ONLY $175000 177335 G1021Z ONLY $249500

Due to rapidly changing market conditions, our advertised prices may be changed at any time without prior notice. Please visit grizzly.com for up-to-date pricing.

Financing Available

21742 Business to Business
Equipment Financing

APRIL 2022 | VOL. 42, NO.2 POPULARWOODWORKING.COM

Build 34 Shop-Made Outdoor 30
Yard Games
20 Patio Lounger
You’ll have as much fun build-
This great-looking chair ing these three games as you
would be just as home inside will playing them.
as it is outside.
BY PW STAFF
BY DILLON BAKER
46 Outdoor Kitchen
30 Shop-Made
Grilling Tools This outdoor kitchen can be
built to suit and is the perfect
A little bit of metalwork- focal point for your next out-
ing combined with some door gathering.
woodworking produce three
excellent tools for the BBQ. BY LOGAN WITTMER

BY CHRIS FITCH

20 46

34



APRIL 2022 | VOL. 42, NO.2 POPULARWOODWORKING.COM

68 Connect

12 18 06 From The Editor

58 64 Don’t let the hustle and
bustle of summer slow
4 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING your woodworking down!

BY LOGAN WITTMER

08 Workshop Tips

Tips from our readers on
sharpening, storage, thrifty
woodworking, and more.

12 New Tools

See what’s new in cross-
cut sleds, rotary tools,
and routers.

Craft

18 In the Shop

Learn the basics of work-
ing with metal in your
woodworking shop.

BY ROB PETRIE

58 Finishing Room

Top finishes and tips to
keep your outdoor projects
looking their best.

BY ROB PETRIE

64 End Grain

A Popular Woodworking
spoof on some of our
favorite publications with
recognizable covers.

BY PW STAFF

Number 264,April 2022,PopularWoodworking (USPS
#752-250) (ISSN 0884-8823) Canadian Agreement
No. 40025316 is published 6 times a year, February,
April,June,August,October,and December (which may
include an occasional special, combined, or expanded
issue that may count as two issues, by the Home Group
of Active Interest Media HoldCo,Inc.The known office of
publication is located at 5710 Flatiron Parkway, Suite C,
Boulder,CO 80301.Periodicals postage paid at Boulder,
CO,and additional mailing offices.POSTMASTER. Send
address changes to Popular Woodworking, P.O. Box
37274, Boone, IA 50037-0274. PRIVACY STATE-
MENT: Active Interest Media HoldCo, Inc. is committed
to protecting your privacy. For a full copy of our privacy
statement, go to aimmedia.com/privacy-policy.

PRECISION See Origin Live!
CUTTING Scan the QR code or visit
SIMPLIFIED shapertools.com/session

Upgrade Your Workshop

Shaper Origin is an easy-to-use handheld CNC router that brings
digital precision to the craft of woodworking. With Shaper Origin
and Workstation you can create perfect box joints, mortise and
tenon joinery, and more with ease and accuracy. Scan the QR
code above and see Origin live.

Visit shapertools.com

FROM THE EDITOR ABOUT THE AUTHORS

Year Round DILLON BAKER: Patio Lounger – pg. 20
Woodworking
Dillon Baker attended Iowa State University and majored in Studio
By Logan Wittmer Arts. For the past five years, Dillon has been a Project Designer
and Design Editor for Woodsmith Magazine. Recently, he’s been
contributing to Popular Woodworking Magazine as the Project
Editor. Dillon’s favorite furniture style to design and build is a toss
up between Art Nouveau and Postmodern. Outside of the shop,
Dillon’s often found with a book in his hand or cycling around town.

The cycles of magazine production CHRIS FITCH: Shop-Made Grilling Tools – pg. 30 PHOTOS PROVIDED BY THE AUTHORS
are odd, especially if you’ve never
been on this side of it. As I type this Joining the Woodsmith team over 20 years ago, Chris has spent
intro letter to our “Spring” issue, it’s the last several years as the Creative Director. Recently being
colder than a polar bear’s butt out- brought on as the Popular Woodworking Technology Editor, Chris
side, with threats of blizzards over finds joy in all things computer-controlled — CNC and 3D printing
the next week. However, here we are alike. From a traditional woodworking standpoint, you’d be hard
working on the March/April issue. pressed to find a better craftsman than Chris. When Chris isn’t in
And, in the spirit of the approaching his lair running CNCs, he’s often found working on traditional folk
spring and summer, we decided to carvings and whirligigs.
make this our unofficial “outdoor”
issue, featuring projects that you can COLLIN KNOFF: Yard Games – pg. 34
build with the anticipation of warmer
months. Outdoor projects aren’t my Collin has been fascinated with building things as long as he can
favorite projects to build, but I know remember — from LEGO sets to taking apart things around the
that people love making them, and house just so he could see how they went back together (sorry
we found some good ones here! Mom!). It wasn’t until he took wood shop in high school, however,
that he found the best way to channel that energy, and has been
As the weather warms, I hope that a maker ever since. Collin joined the Popular Woodworking team
you have some time to get outside. as the Digital Editor in 2019, and is excited to be part of the bright
Enjoy the weather. Go on a walk. Go future ahead for the next 40 years.
fishing. Collect some logs to have
milled. However, I want to challenge DANIELLE LOWERY: Yard Games – pg. 34
you to make sure that you get in your
shop and build something. Tradition- Since a young girl, Danielle has always had a passion for the arts.
ally, fall through winter is “wood- Dance,music,and art – she loves it all! Now her passion lies solely
working season”, but I'm an advocate in the arts including graphic design,illustration,stained glass work,
of making sure to carve out time to and most recently woodworking.She joined PopularWoodworking
do what makes you happy. So, during in 2018 as the Senior Graphic Designer and is thrilled to begin
the busy spring and summer, and as writing as well with her first article in this issue. When Danielle
you’re getting that itch to get outside, isn’t designing, she’s being an artist. So it’s safe to say, she lives,
make sure you carve out some shop breathes, and sleeps art!
time for yourself. Cheers.
ROB PETRIE: Outdoor Finishing & Metal in the Shop – pg. 18 & 58

A lifelong woodworking enthusiast, Rob Petrie attended the
University of Iowa, majoring in journalism and writing. Enjoying
all aspects of woodworking,Rob has been on a particular carving
kick lately. He enjoys the feeling of shaping the wood by hand
and listening to what the grain has to tell him. If he’s not in the
shop or the office, you can probably find Rob biking or camping
somewhere across the Midwest.

APRIL 2022, VOL. 42, NO. 2

EDITOR IN CHIEF ■ Logan Wittmer
SENIOR DESIGNER ■ Danielle Lowery

DIGITAL EDITOR ■ Collin Knoff
PROJECTS EDITOR ■ Dillon Baker
TECHNOLOGY EDITOR ■ Chris Fitch
PHOTOGRAPHERS ■ Jack Coyier
COVER PHOTOGRAPHER ■ Jack Coyier

SET STYLIST ■ Becky Kralicek
CONTRIBUTORS ■ Rob Petrie

DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION ■ Phil Graham

ADVERTISING SALES DIRECTOR ■

Heather Glynn Gniazdowski
VP, MARKETING ■ Amanda Phillips

VP, EVENTS ■ Julie Zub

ACCOUNTING MANAGER ■

Stephen O’Neil
CREATIVE DIRECTOR ■ Edie Mann
DIGITAL PRODUCER ■ Josh Cohn

ADVERTISING SALES COORDINATOR ■

Julie Dillon; [email protected]

ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ■

Jack Christiansen; Tel: 847-724-5633
[email protected]

PRESIDENT, HOME GROUP ■ Peter H. Miller

PRESIDENT, MARINE GROUP ■

Gary DeSanctis
CTO ■ Brian Van Heuverswyn

CFO ■ Stephen Pompeo
VP, ACCOUNTING ■ Bart Hawley

CIRCULATION DIRECTOR ■

Paige Nordmeyer
DIRECTOR, RETAIL SALES ■ Susan Rose

HR DIRECTOR ■ Scott Roeder
CHAIRMAN ■ Andrew W. Clurman
CHAIRMAN EMERITUS ■ Efrem Zimbalist III

EDITORIAL CONTACT

[email protected]

SUBSCRIPTIONS:
For subscription questions or address changes,
visit www.popularwoodworking.com/customerservice

or call 877-860-9140 (U.S. only).
US subscription rate $24.95, single price $6.99.

Canadian subscription rate $34.95 USD.
Canadian Agreement No. 40025316.

CUSTOMER SERVICE: P.O. Box 842,
Des Moines, IA 50304-0842,
[email protected]

COPYRIGHT: 2022 by Active Interest Media
Holdco, Inc. Boulder, Colorado. This publication
may not be reproduced, either in whole or part,

in any form without written permission from
the publisher.

Connect

WORKSHOP TIPS Portable Touch-Up Kit

A Bead in any Board Mixing tiny amounts of stain from big cans and cleaning
brushes all for one little touch-up job used to drive me
I wanted an antique beadboard look for my cabinet crazy. While watching my wife apply fingernail polish,
doors, but stock beadboard didn’t work out with my I had a moment of inspiration. The clear half-ounce
door size. Here’s what I came up with: I glued up a solid bottles are perfect for storing different-colored stains
door and cut 3/16" x 3/16" dadoes at each glue joint. Then and the self-storing brushes never need cleaning! I
I chamfered the edges with a sanding block (or you rinsed out some old bottles and brushes with lacquer
could use a plane). Finally, I ran a thin bead of glue in thinner and filled them with my most-used stains. I keep
the bottom of the dadoes and laid in 3/16" dowels. Could a little plastic cup in my kit for mixing custom colors. —
it be any simpler? Now I can have beadboard in any Charles Eggleston (Gary, IN)
width I need and I’m not limited to the wood species
available at the lumberyard. — Robert Holzer Jr.

NAIL
POLISH
BRUSH
MIXING CUP

PHOTO BY RAMON MORENO SMALL
FUNNEL
Knock-Apart Utility Table
OLD NAIL
I couldn’t do without this knock- 1 2 POLISH PHOTOS PROVIDED BY THE AUTHOR UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED
down stand for my bench tools BOTTLE
and accessories. It’s made from 3/4"
plywood (two 36" high x 48" wide PHOTO BY BILL ZUEHLKE
baseboards and a 48" x 48" tabletop).
Cut 3/4" wide slot halfway into each
base piece using a bandsaw or saber
saw. Slide parts together and check
that the bottom sits level on the
floor. Add leveling feet, if necessary.

Add blocks of wood to the top
corners of each base piece. Secure
the top with screws run through
pocket holes in each block.

You can design a table to suit
your needs; just be sure the base is
wide enough to be stable. — Jerome
Curran (Brookfield, IL)

8 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING

These are family heirlooms

80% of all problems in wood projects are caused by
moisture content issues.A quick and simple, non-damaging
moisture meter reading can save you from angry customer
calls, unnecessary repair time, and a bad reputation. Call
today and learn why Wagner’s industry-leading Orion
meters may just be the most important tool for your shop.

1-800-505-1405 WagnerMeters.com

Connect

WORKSHOP TIPS

A Bargain Honing Jig and How To Improve It

When I first learned how to sharpen, I bought a very • Make a projection jig. You don’t need a ruler to
simple and inexpensive honing jig made in England by to measure a tool’s projection—use a stepped wooden
Eclipse. Today, the same jig is widely available under jig instead (Photo 3). It’s more convenient, more
many different brand names and often costs less than accurate, and easily repeatable. I use a single projection
$15. It works quite well — I’ve used mine for years — for most chisels and plane irons: 30mm (about 13/16").
but I’ve made a few small refinements to it. The jig’s This creates a 30° bevel on a chisel and a 35° bevel on
body is aluminum, so it’s very easy to modify using a a plane iron.
file or disc sander.
• Add a microbevel setting. I added a second side to
The jig has two positions for clamping tools: an upper the projection jig that is 2mm (about 1/16") shorter
ledge for plane irons and a lower pair of V-shaped grooves than the first side, which increases the bevel angle by
for chisels. To set the honing angle, you measure the about 1°. To sharpen an edge, I use the normal 30mm
distance from the tip of the blade to the body of the jig. projection on medium and fine stones (side #1), then
Here’s what you can do to make this jig even better. reset the projection to 28mm (side #2) and hone on a
superfine stone.
• Flatten its face. For accurate and repeatable projection
measurements, the two front faces of the jig must be • Form a back-bevel ramp. Adding a back bevel to a
square and even with each other. The easiest way to plane iron makes the iron easier to sharpen. To make
flatten the faces is by placing the jig on a disc sander’s a back bevel using this jig, you just turn the jig over
worktable and gently pushing it into the disc. (Photo 1) and rest its top on your stone (Photo 4). Unaltered,
the jig produces a back bevel that’s quite steep, so I
• Widen the chisel slots. Many chisels don’t fit very used a disc sander to grind down the top of the jig,
well in the V-shaped grooves because their sides are sloping from front to back.
too thick. Clamp the jig in a vise and use the edge of a
6" or 8" mill bastard file to widen the grooves to fit your
tools (Photo 2).

13

2 4 PHOTOS PROVIDED BY THE AUTHOR

10 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING

Precision • Mortise & Tenon
woodworking
has never • Box Joints
been easier. and Dovetails

• Set-up to
glue-up
in minutes

• Easy to Use

• Ideal for both
hobby and
professional
woodworkers

Powered by See videos and get
more project ideas at
www.PantoRouter.com
or call (877) 333-7150

New projects are WAITING for you at

popularwoodworking.com/shop

Build the 21st-Century Workbench Video Download

Connect ■ TSC-200

NEW TOOLS Infinity Tools
infinitytools.com
TSC-200 Crosscut Sled Price: $279.90

If you caught the last issue of Popular Woodworking, you
might have noticed a photo or two in the cigar humidor
article featuring a new crosscut sled. The TSC-200 Cross-
cut Sled from Infinity Tools is a pretty nifty little sled, and
if my initial project or two with it are any indication, it
will be a great asset to the shop.

The TSC-200 is made from a high-quality, void-free
plycore plywood. The plywood is covered in a low-friction,
dimpled melamine, much like the Infinity router table. Like
most Infinity products, the sled comes flat-packed so you’ll
need to assemble it when it gets to your shop. However, all
the parts are CNC cut with holes pre-drilled for attaching
the fences with screws. This ensures accurate assembly
and a dead square fence.

One of the features that I appreciate on this crosscut
sled is the fact that there are two zero clearance inserts
built into it. This allows you to flip the miter bar (which
has spring-loaded bearings for zero slop and a good fit)
between the miter slots. You can have one zero clearance
insert for 90° cuts while the other is set up for miter cuts.
Pretty slick little setup, if you ask me. Of course, this does
come with the caveat that you only have one miter bar
instead of two. However, I’ve always built sleds with one
bar and have never had a problem.

Now, to get the most out of any crosscut sled, a way to
attach accessories is mandatory. Infinity has included an
aluminum T-track on the top of the rear fence, and it accepts
numerous accessories. Included with the sled are a flip stop
and toggle hold-down. Overall, it’s the high-quality tool
you’ve come to expect from Infinity Tools. — Logan Wittmer

■ SPINRITE SpinRite Router Motor

Woodpeckers Over the years, I’ve noticed a trend. Almost every
woodpeck.com router is designed around a router base. If you want
Price: $279.99 to mount it in a CNC or a router table... well, that’s
almost an afterthought. However, Woodpeckers
recently released a motor with router tables and PHOTOS BY THE AUTHORS & MANUFACTURERS
CNC machines in mind: the SpinRite motor.

The 3.25 HP SpinRite features ER20 collets for
better bit gripping strength. This style of collet is
used on industrial milling machines and are avail-
able in countless sizes. The precision-built motor
features less run-out, and has a soft start. The mo-
tor is infinitely adjustable from 10,000-22,000 RPM,
and when it’s up to speed, you’ll notice it’s signifi-
cantly quieter (75% quieter) than other comparable
router motors.— Logan Wittmer

12 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING

STEVE WALL LUMBER CO. Above prices are for 100’ quantities of kiln UPS Specials
dried rough lumber sold by the Bd. Ft. FOB
Quality Hardwoods and Plywood For The Mayodan, NC. Call for quantity discounts. Above prices are 20 bd. ft.
Craftsmen and Educational Institutions bundles of clear kiln dried
Other sizes and grades available. lumber 3”-10” wide • 3’-5’ long
(Random widths & lengths)
SEE OUR CATALOG Surfaced 2 sides or rough.
ON THE WEB! Delivered Ground prepaid in

Alder .............................4/4 Select 3.30 .......... $ 90.00 the Continental U.S.
Ash................................4/4 Select 2.60 .......... $101.00
Basswood .....................4/4 Select 1.95 .......... $ 91.00 OLIVER MACHINERY DEALER
Birch .............................4/4 Select 3.50 .......... $115.00 HARDWOOD PLYWOOD
Butternut.......................4/4 1C 3.25 .......... $ 98.00
Cedar ............................4/4 1C+Btr. 2.00 .......... $ 85.00 CUSTOM RAISED PANEL DOORS
Cherry ...........................4/4 Select 4.90 .......... $129.00 CUSTOM PLANK HARDWOOD FLOORING
Cypress.........................4/4 Select 2.75 .......... $ 97.00
Hickory - Pecan.............4/4 Select 3.00 .......... $108.00 THIN CRAFTWOOD
Mahogany (Genuine).....4/4 Select 5.10 .......... $122.00 EXOTIC LUMBER
Maple (Hard).................4/4 Select 3.65 .......... $116.00
Maple (Soft)..................4/4 Select 2.60 .......... $ 95.00 STEVE H. WALL LUMBER CO.
Oak (Red)......................4/4 Select 2.80 .......... $105.00
Oak (White)...................4/4 QS 2.90 .......... $105.00 BOX 287, MAYODAN, NC 27027
Poplar ...........................4/4 Select 1.80 .......... $ 85.00 336-427-0637 • 1-800-633-4062 • FAX: 336-427-7588
Walnut...........................4/4 Select 5.75 .......... $125.00
White Pine (Soft) ..........4/4 F.G. 1.40 .......... $ 78.00 Email: [email protected]
Yellow Pine (Soft) .........4/4 Clear 2.20 .......... $ 90.00 Website: www.wallumber.com

Send $1.00 For Lumber Catalog

Prices Subject to Change Without Notice

Maximum Strength FULL PROJECT PLANS INSIDE Build Outdoor Furniture to Last
Maximum Control
JUNE 2019 | #246

Get Control with the Strongest, MAKE YOUR OWN
Stiffest Fret Saws on Earth
WINDSOR CHAIR
Available in
WEEKEND PROJECT BUILD IT US $7.99
Titanium or Aluminum 06
Walnut Table Japanese
www.knewconcepts.com With Router Inlay Writing Box 0 71486 01355 6

PopularWoodworking.com/subscribe

Bosch GEX18V-5N
Random Orbit Sander

Bosch recently introduced new 12V and 18V brushless ■ GEX18V-5N RANDOM
cordless random orbit sanders. In addition to the latest
brushless motor technology, Bosch paid special attention ORBIT SANDER
to lowering the center of gravity of the tool, allowing Bosch
your hand to be closer to the material. We tested the 18V www.BoschTools.com
version and found it to be a great all-around sander. Price: $129 (battery not included)

Turning on the sander for the first time, I was con- the low-profile design and integrate the battery pack, the
cerned there might be something wrong—it was so port exits on the right-hand side of the tool instead of
quiet and vibration-free, I could only assume it wasn’t from the back, which is more common. If you’re using the
moving at the correct RPM. I quickly realized those were included dust bag, that’s just fine, but if you attach a dust
just benefits of the brushless design and the vibra- collection hose, the extra weight can make the sander feel
tion-dampening element built into the tool. Putting unbalanced. It’s not a deal-breaker though. — Collin Knoff
the sander to the wood showed that it had more than
adequate power and material-removing ability.

Ergonomically, the low-profile design pays off when
it comes to tool control as well as comfort. I’ve put in a
decent amount of time using it over the past few weeks
and never had any discomfort or phantom vibrations
after use. The power switch and speed adjuster are ideally
located by your index finger and thumb respectively (as-
suming you’re right-handed, that is) and are easy to use.

If there’s one complaint I have, it would be with the
location of the dust collection port. In order to achieve

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 13





Connect

NEW TOOLS

How does Dremel’s newest Rotary Tool
stack up to one from 30 years ago?

When evaluating a new tool, there are two paths often age plays into that, Dremel does claim it’s more powerful
taken—how does the tool function for its intended than its modern plug-in siblings. While both tools share
purpose, and how does it improve upon what came the same RPM range, the 395 is infinitely adjustable,
before it? When looking at the former, the new 8260 though nearly impossible to tell where it’s set with only
Cordless Smart Rotary Tool score a perfect 10! It’s a sticker to measure. The 8260 can be adjusted in exact
powerful, the battery life exceeds expectations, and 5,000 RPM increments and can be changed on the tool or
the app is well designed and thoughtful. Looking at in the app.
the latter—specifically comparing it to a circa-1992
Dremel 395 I “borrowed” from my Dad in college (sor- That’s right, there’s an app, and it’s quite useful. In-
ry, Dad!) — we start to find a more interesting narra- put the material, task, and bit you’re using, and it will
tive of progress. give you a suggested RPM range. The app also moni-
tors battery life and the operating temperature of the
Interestingly, the tools are just as similar as they are tool and battery so you don’t risk overheating during
different. Both are made of black plastic (though the heavy-duty tasks. It even helps you choose the right bit
8260 has a more rubberized texture), with a loop on the for a task if you’re not sure. While Dremel could have
end to hang if desired. Both feature variable speed con- cut corners to make a “smart” tool, they seem to have
trol between 5,000 and 30,000 RPM. Both tools share invested the capital in making a tool that actually lives
the same extensive library of attachments and bits. And up to the smart designation.
the 8260 weighs only 3 ounces more than the 395 with
the battery attached. So does the 8260 actually represent 30 years of
advancement in tools and technology? I’d say it does—
The differences are quite striking though. The 8260 it's an improvement on the 395 in ways both measurable
is battery-powered and brushless, meaning that setup is and not, and the smart features make it more versatile
effortless and maintenance is effectively non-existent. and useful for everyday use. And while it’s too early
The 395 is compact and very comfortable to hold in to tell if one of my kids will be comparing this to the
your hand for detailed engraving work, while the 8260 is Dremel 16485 in 30 years, it does mean that my Dad is
large—almost too large. If you’re going to be doing a lot finally getting his old tool back! — Collin Knoff
of small detail work, you’ll want to invest in a Flex Shaft
attachment. Or, if you already have one, it will work PHOTOS BY THE AUTHORS & MANUFACTURERS
fine with either tool, which is quite a commit-
ment from Dremel, given 30 years to tinker
with the formula.

The 8260 feels quite a bit more
powerful than its forefather,
and though I’m certain

■ 8260 CORDLESS

SMART ROTARY TOOL
Dremel
www.us.dremel.com
Price: $169 (includes tool,
battery, and carrying case)

16 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING

RIDGID R4850 Planer

The already well-regarded Ridg- ■ R4850 PLANER
id thickness planer just got an
upgrade. Ridgid, the Home Depot Ridgid
www.homedepot.com

exclusive brand, just announced Price: $499

an upgrade to their thickness

planer. The new R4850 offers some great features that

make it a good option for your shop.

The new R4850s feature heavier-duty construction

all around. The three-knife cutter head leaves a smooth

surface, and the location of the feed rollers in relation

to the knife head virtually eliminates snipe. The cutter

head runs at 10,000 RPM and makes 90 cuts per inch.

The maximum depth of cut is about 1/8", which is fairly

standard with lunch-box style planers.

One of my favorite features of the Ridgid R4850 is

the cut-depth indicator and depth stop that allows

you to make cuts at preset depths. These features have but you’ll need a full-size dust collector to make the
most out of it.
been standard on all Ridgid planers, even my original
The new R4850 is being rolled out throughout Home
Ridgid planer I had nearly 20 years ago. Weighing in Depot stores across the US, starting on the West coast.
If your local store doesn’t carry it yet, not to worry, it’s
at 75 pounds, the R4850 is heavy enough to not move available to order online from homedepot.com. Like
other Ridgid tools, it’s backed by a manufacturer’s 5-year
around during use (a problem I’ve had with other, warranty. — Logan Wittmer

light-weight planers), but not too heavy to make it

cumbersome to set up. The included 4" dust collection

port does a pretty good job of grabbing chips and dust,

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 17

In the Shop

Working with Metals

Tools and techniques such as WD-40. When using the table 1
saw, I prefer a dry lubricant applied 2
for general metalwork to the blade. Most dry lubricants 3
actually go on wet and dry after a few
in the shop. minutes. A piece of cardboard with
a kerf for the blade will work to keep
By Rob Petrie the rest of the saw clean. Once the
lubricant dries, take off the card-
While the woodshop may be board and you’re ready to cut.
where I’m most comfortable, I’ve
been fascinated by metalwork Ferrous metals (iron or alloys like
for some time. I’m always watch- steel) require a different approach,
ing for tips and tricks I can steal as your normal tools won’t cut it
for my own use, and as such I’ve (pun fully intended). In my opinion,
become attached to a few methods the best two tools a woodworker
of working with metal in my own can have in this case are a recipro-
shop. Of course, metalwork is far too cating saw and an angle grinder.
expansive to cover in just two pages,
but here are several things that have The reciprocating saw is just a
helped a woodworker like me bridge motorized hack saw. I find having
the gap to metalwork. a battery-powered reciprocating
saw with a metal blade at the ready
Cutting invaluable, as it usually takes care of
all my simple metal cutting needs.
When I need to work with metal,
that almost always means some The angle grinder is a more
cutting. I find there are two ways to precise and versatile tool. I find the
go about it, depending on whether rotational motion gives me more
you’re working with ferrous or control over a cut, as opposed to
non-ferrous metal. the constant back-and-forth of a
reciprocating saw. I can cut a piece
The term non-ferrous metal to size with a cutting disc, then
refers to any pure metal that isn’t finish the piece by switching in a
iron (“ferrum” being Latin for iron), grinding wheel to shape and polish
as well as any alloys which contain it. In my eyes, the only downfall of
no iron. I consider these the most the angle grinder is safety. A quick
woodworker-friendly, as metals like Google of “angle grinder accidents”
brass and aluminum are soft enough will show you what I mean. Cutting
that standard woodworking power and grinding discs are made of
tools can do the job. The bandsaw composite material, which if worn
and table saw are standouts for me or damaged can come flying apart,
in this category, as long as you make often towards the user. Discs that
the right adjustments. get wet, that fall on the ground, or
that have worn down significantly
First, you’ll need a non-ferrous
cutting blade. These are typically 1 On the bandsaw, use a 4 TPI blade with hardened teeth. Finer teeth may clog PHOTOS BY THE AUTHOR
made of carbide rather than high- up while a blade without hardened teeth will dull.
speed steel. Second, you’ll need to
slow your feed speed. Even on softer 2 A non-ferrous cutting blade and a slower feed rate is all you need to make re-
metals, trying to make a cutter do liable cuts to brass or aluminum on the table saw. Applying some dry lubricant
too much work will cause it to grab will give you a smoother cut and extend the life of your blade.
rather than cut. Lastly: lubrication.
On the bandsaw, the motor sits off to 3 The cross-hatched pattern of a double-cut file (top) helps to hog out material.
the side, so you’re safe to use a liquid On the other hand, the single-cut file (bottom) is best when precise, finished
lubricant applied to the cutting area, edges are needed.

18 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING

Working with Metal

all pose a risk of disc failure. As a Drilling
result, it’s best to be liberal with
replacements. As somebody who Whether it’s for screws, bolts, or
wears his socks until they’re more just style, sometimes you’ll need to
hole than wool, this feels wasteful drill a hole in metal. As opposed to
to me, but I’ll take it over ending up wood, whose surface can be dented
on someone else’s “angle grinder by a drill bit before drilling, bits have
accident” search results. a tendency to “wander” across the
surface of most metals until they find
Shaping purchase, often not where intended.
The answer is center punches.
Once your pieces are cut, you may
Center punches come in two
want to shape them more finely. kinds: standard ones that need to be
hammered, and automatic punch-
4 Whether ferrous or not, I find the es, which have a spring-loaded
self-striking mechanism inside. Al-
best method of shaping metal to be though standard punches take a tad
more time, the force you can deliver
good old hand filing. with a hammer far outweighs the
self-striking mechanism.
When it comes to choosing a file,
With the divot punched in, the
there are a few options. Course question now is what bit to use. Stan-
dard woodworking bits are hardened
files work fast, but leave a rough steel, and they can drill through
non-ferrous metals as well as mild
surface. Smooth files are ideal for steel. They work, though I wouldn’t
recommend them for large holes.
finishing that surface up. Single-cut
Because a standard bit wants to
files cut cleanly, but a double-cut carve out long chunks with its cut-
ters at one time, it tends to grab the
file takes off more material. Files metal and tries spinning it instead
of cutting through. Due to that, it’s
come in a variety of shapes as well, often best to work your way up from
a smaller bit to a larger one. This
so it can be nice to have a selection is an exercise in tedium. Luckily,
there’s other options.
on hand.
The first is a hole saw. For me, a
When it comes to technique, hole saw is often the best choice,
as I’ll be cutting far less material
there’s two methods. Straight filing than if I were to bore out the hole.
Most metal hole saws are made of
5 (Photo 4) is useful for rounding or tungsten carbide, and with a little
smoothing a piece quickly. Moving lubrication they can cut fairly large
holes in most pieces.
in a diagonal direction across the
The second option is a step bit,
workpiece will help to prevent low which cuts like a standard twist
bit, but it slowly “steps” up in size.
spots. Draw filing cuts sideways Since all material in the hole is
being removed, a step bit is a less
with the file for a more finished sur- efficient waste-remover than a hole
saw, but it does leave a cleaner,
face. Hold the file with both hands burr-free hole. I’d recommend a
hole saw for larger operations and
and move it back and forth over a step bit for your smaller holes,
but either is a good option. PW—
the piece. You don’t need to worry Rob Petrie

about damaging the teeth with the

back stroke at this angle.

For non-ferrous metals, there is

another method: the router. Router

bits are made of carbide, so they’ll

cut wood, aluminum, or brass.

Just be sure to use a lubricant and

6 limit yourself to shaving off a small
amount with each pass.

4 When straight filing, lay the file flat on the piece and cut on the push stroke,
lifting the file off the piece after each cut to avoid damaging the teeth.

5 When lining up your center punch, don’t eyeball it from over-top. Tipping it at
an angle and “walking” it up to your mark will give more accurate results.

6 When equipped with a carbide-toothed hole saw, a drill press is more than
capable of making a decently-sized hole in most metals.

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 19

PROJECT #2205_ PHOTOS BY JACK COYIER & LOGAN WITTMER

Skill Level:
Intermediate
Time: 2-3 Days
Cost: $250

Patio Lounger

Try your hand at building a durable and stylish seat
that’s fit for the great outdoors.

By Dillon Baker

20 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING

One of the more important be aesthetically pleasing. And they follow along and create something
have to be comfortable.” It’s these both modern and practical.
questions I have asked myself as criteria that well define the unique
a designer is: what justifies art? Does challenge and enduring appeal of Put Your Chair on
it need to be an objects ability to creating a “good” chair. a Pedestal
transcend or define space, time, and
or class? Must it be utilitarian — Dating back as far as 2,000 years Begin by creating the front and back
something accessible and prudent by chairs, like humans, have evolved leg assemblies for the chair. Make
nature? For me, it’s something that to adapt to meet the needs of their the miter cuts for the front and back
possesses all of these qualities, and it environment. And with the advent of legs using a bandsaw. I cut about
takes the physical form of a chair. the Industrial Revolution, new pro- 1/32" away from the layout lines and
duction methods and materials were then refined the surface using a
I remember Garry Knox Bennett introduced; however, the primary block plane. Once this is complete,
(a twentieth century American function of a chair has remained cut the radius on the backside of the
woodworker) once said: “chairs unchanged—which is to “seat”. back legs. Then, finish off the legs
and shoes are the hardest things to by drilling the dowel joinery with a
make. They have to be light… They So, if you are up for the challenge, “Dowel-it” jig.
have to be strong…They have to or the “ritual of chair initiation,”

1

3

2

1 Create the angled reference lines on the front and back 4
legs as they are all cut separately and later refined.

2 Go slow and use your line as a guide.

3 I chose a twist bit over a standard Brad-point bit to
adequately compete with both the end and face grain.

4 Once your dowel mortises are drilled, check the fit of the
dowels that will be used in assembly.

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 21

Patio Lounger

56

5 Using what’s left of the
original layout line, true up
the angled surface using a
block plane.

6 While still at the bench,
create the profile on the
back legs using a rasp.

7 Dry fit your front and
back assemblies to ensure
a proper fit.

8 If needed, use the
pressure from the clamps
to bring your dowel joints
together.

7

The only procedure that is 8
required for the front and back
stretchers (other than being cut to
length) is for the dowel holes to be
drilled. Go ahead and glue up the
front and back assemblies and set
them aside. While the glue cures on
your two leg assemblies, work on
the left and right stretchers. Cut the
small notch (that later receives the
seat frame) using the same method
used for the miter cuts. Cut close
to your layout line and pare the
“slopes” to the line using a chisel.

Don’t Forget
to Stretcher

With the base components done and
partially assembled, turn your focus
towards the seat frame. Start by cut-
ting the four horizontal stretchers to
their finished dimensions. Drill the

22 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING

9 Like before—using the pre-drawn layout line—cut a notch on each left and
right stretcher.

10 A few passes with a 3/4" chisel helps refine the remaining bandsaw marks.

11 Continuing with the same methodology, create a dowel hole on the slope of
both the left and right stretchers.

9 10 11

dowel holes on each end and proceed 12-14 Create a bullnose profile on
to put a 5/8" roundover on all four the seat frame stretchers using a
edges of each stretcher. 5/8" roundover bit.

To create the seat frame pieces,

I started by cutting the miters over 15 If you don’t have a pre-fabricated

at the miter saw. Since this tool has shooting board—no problem. This

a tendency to be imprecise —and contraption can be as simple as us-
miters are inherently finicky— ing piece of plywood for the base, a
fence adhered at the preferred angle,
I refined my cut using a shooting
12 board. Proceed to cut the 2° taper and sharp block plane.

13

14 15

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 23

Patio Lounger over at the table saw using a crude,
but effective shop-made taper jig.
16 17 This procedure could also be done
18 19 using the same bandsaw method
applied to the leg miters; howev-
20 er, accuracy proved to be more
germane in this instance. Using the
24 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING Dowel-it jig, create the dowel holes
on your fresh miter cut.

Proceed to drill the holes that
accommodate the stretchers over
at the drill press, using the tapered
edge as your reference against the
fence. Reset your fence, and drill
two through holes. These are used
as pilot holes for the groove that
runs along each seat frame piece.
Over at the router, make a series
of stopped, plunge cuts increas-
ing the height of the bit about a
1/4" at a time. Make a pass along
one side using the tapered side
as your reference, then rotate the
piece 180° on end and proceed to
make the same cut on the opposite
side. Continue to raise the bit after
each pass until you have created a
through slot. Go ahead and do this
for all four pieces.

Finish off the seat frame by
creating a round profile on each of
the four pieces, on the opposite side
of the miter. Cut the radius using a
hand or bandsaw, and cleanup any
blade marks with a rasp.

16 For the seat frames, I constructed
a makeshift taper jig for the table saw.

17 The drill press made quick and
accurate work of drilling the dowel
mortises, as well as the pilot holes
for the reed slot.

18 Use the pilot holes as a viewing
window when locating the begin-
ning and ending of the plunge cut.

19 I used a 3/8" upcut spiral bit to
create the reed slot. This provided
smoother cuts and rapid chip
removal.

20 Routing from both sides requires
a shorter bit, thus increasing the
accuracy of the cut while eliminating
the possibility of deflection.

Patio Lounger

3/4" R 15/16" 17/8"

2 1/2"

dia. 3/8" 7/8"

TOP VIEW 13/8" 5 /16" dia.
14 5/8"
1/2" 3/8"
SIDE VIEW 3/8"
5/8" 1" 3/8"(W)
SEAT FRAME 3/4" (D)

13/16" 21/2" 1"
13/4"
R 7/8" 3/8"(W) 10 1/8"
3/4" (D)

3/8"(W) 50˚
1/2" (D)

1/2" 1" Supplies Needed: 12"

5/8" • Four 1lb. coils of 3/8" flat reed 1"
dia. 3/8" • Basin of distilled water (for soaking the reed)
R 5/8" • Butter knife • Needle nose pilers
• Wire cutters • Desktop stapler
END VIEW • Spray bottle

SIDE STRETCHER

11/8"
20˚

50˚

1" TOP VIEW 21/2"
1" SIDE VIEW

3 5/8" 2 1/2" BACKREST FRAME
70˚

3/8"(W) 170˚ SIDE STRETCHER 2 1/2" 3/8"(W)
1/2" (D) 1/2" 3/4" (D)
SIDE VIEW
dia.
TOP VIEW
3/8"

3/4"

5/16" 10˚

dia. 3 3/4"

3/8"

3/8"(W) 11/4" 3/4"
3/4" (D)
3/4" dia. 3/8"(W)
3/4" 1/2" (D)
3/8"
dia.
3/8"(W) Cut List
1/2" (D) dia. 3/8"
3/8" 3/8"(W)

3/4" (D)

11/4" No. Item Dimensions (in.)
91/4" 21/2" TW L
2 A Seat frames 1 2 1/2 23
6 3/4" 2 B Backrest frames 1 2 1/2 18
4 C Seat stretchers 11/4 2 24 3/4
3/4" 3/4" 2 D Front legs 3/4 2 1/2 14 1/2
2 1/2" 2 E Back legs 3/4 2 1/2 25
2 F Side stretchers 3/4 2 1/2 22
2 G F /B stretchers 3/4 2 1/2 25

FRONT VIEW SIDE VIEW FRONT VIEW SIDE VIEW

BACK LEG FRONT LEG

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 25

Patio Lounger

21 22

21 Don’t hesitate to clamp 23
the caul blocks in place while
they dry. This will further
solidify the bond while under
clamping pressure.

22 Adjust the placement of the
clamps as needed.

23 Finish off the seat frame
assemblies by creating a 1/8"
round over around the edges—
including the reed slot.

Exploded View Caul Blocks for a Tight Fit

A Seat frames B C To glue up the seat frame pieces, I
B Backrest frames A chose to use a series of caul blocks
C Seat stretchers made from MDF. Gluing up miter
D Front legs joints can be awkward, especially
E Back legs if you are not gluing up four sides.
F Side stretchers Attaching caul blocks, offset along
G F /B stretchers the glue joint, allows for evenly dis-
tributed clamping pressure. Begin
E B by gluing pieces of butcher or kraft
G paper directly to the bare wood.
F Then, glue the blocks to the surface
CC of the paper. This creates a strong
enough bond to allow for sufficient
DC A clamping pressure across the joint
without permanently adhering the
G F E blocks to the piece. Once the glue
has cured, remove the blocks with
Length of 3/8" dowels: D a swift tap from a mallet. If there
is any residual paper or glue (there
• A to F – 1" long inevitably will be), clean up the
• D/E to G – 11/4" long surface with some light sanding.
• All others – 11/2" long
Lastly, using an 1/8" roundover
bit in a small palm router, create a
radius around the profile of the seat
frame. Do the same for the interior
of the slots that were created earlier
as well.

26 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING

24

Glue-up Plan of Action 25

In order for all of the parts to prop- 24 Bring the seat frame assemblies together by introducing the stretchers.
erly come together, glue up the seat Also, clean up any glue squeeze out at this time.
frame assembly first. With the front 25-26 Add the glue and dowels to the frame, first. Then, bring the seat frame
and back legs already glued up, it’s down onto the main assembly.
time to turn our attention towards
the final assembly. 26

Disclaimer: this next step may
seem daunting. However, with the
right planning, all of your parts
should come together quite effort-
lessly. Begin by applying glue to all
of the dowel mortises, then insert
the dowels into all of the base-frame
pieces. Bring the front and back legs
together by introducing the left and
right horizontal stretchers. Refrain
from clamping these together, as we
will need the extra room to introduce
the seat frame assembly. Place the
seat frame onto the base by aligning
the dowels with their respected
mortises. Continue to work your way
around the piece, gradually bringing
the entire assembly together with the
persuasion of a mallet. To conclude
this ostensibly Herculean effort, be-
gin to add clamps where needed.

For angles or planes where two
surfaces are not parallel, I went
ahead and created a couple shop-
made cauls to exert maximum
clamping pressure. Articulating
Quick-grip clamps may also work
depending on their radial capacity.
Take this time to check for gaps
and conduct your routine glue
cleanup procedure.

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 27

Patio Lounger

27

27 Grab a low-profile pot or pan (with
distilled water), a pair of wire cutters,
a butter knife and lets weave!

28 Begin your warp by attaching
the reed to the left, inside seat
frame, and pull it under and then
over the front stretcher.

A Finish for the Elements 28

When dealing with outdoor furni- 29
ture projects, it’s difficult to imagine
a finish that’s capable of braving 30
harsh seasonal changes. However,
I often find that Penofin penetrating 29 Splice the reed by overlapping two pieces and stapling them in place. Crimp
oil to be more than an adequate the staples using needle nose pliers.
solution. It has just enough color to 30 Continue feeding the reed around the front and back stretchers until the
accentuate the natural grain of the warp is complete.
wood while simultaneously protect-
ing it against mildew and ultraviolet
light. It’s easily applied, and when it
finally succumbs to the unforgiving
subjection to the elements, it’s just
as easily reapplied.

Reed Weaving 101

To create the seat and backrest, I
went with a 3/8" natural, flat reed
fiber. There are two terms worth
remembering when weaving: warp
(longitudinal set), weft (latitudinal
set). Begin by soaking the reed in
water for about a half-hour. This will
help keep the reed pliant during the
weaving process.

The first step is to wrap the front
and back stretchers of the seat
creating the warp. The reed comes
in spools of varying lengths, so
I would choose the smaller ones
when creating the warp as the width
of the seat is a bit larger than its
depth. Add length to the reed as

28 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING

31 32 33

34 needed by splicing strips together
using staples. Once you complete
31 Working with rows of three, begin by placing the first weft strand over the the warp (59 rows to be exact, as
first warp row and then under three. you see in Photo 28-30), it’s time to
32 Notice, on the second pass the weft began over two and then under three. create the transverse weave which
33 Once you have reached the fourth weft row, repeat the initial process, only, will create the herringbone pattern
begin under one followed by over three. you see here.
34 The same process is applied to the back. Work slow, be cognizant of the
pattern count, and you will be a weaving expert in no time. Begin by inserting a single piece
of reed over the first row and under
the next three (Photo 31). Continue
the over-under pattern (in groups of
three) until you reach the opposite
side. For the underside of the chair,
I just did a standard basket weave
as it’s not exposed. For the next
weft row, insert the reed over two
and then under three. As you make
your way around to the third row, go
over three, repeating the previous
over-under process. Once you have
reached the fourth row, go under
one and then over three. Continue
to follow this process until you have
reached the front of the chair. The
same rules apply for the backrest.

Once the weaving is complete, and
the water has evaporated, apply a thin
coat of Penofin to further protect the
reed. Now, the only thing left to do is
to find a quiet spot in the shade, and
bask in the comfortable reward of a
job (erm… chair) well done.
PW – Dillon Baker

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 29

Become the master of the
grill after you’ve built these
shop-made grilling utensils.

By Chris Fitch

Shop-made PROJECT #2206_
Grilling Tools
Skill Level:
Intermediate
Time: 1 Day
Cost: $30

There’s almost no greater feeling Handles First Once all the holes are drilled, swap
than pulling a perfectly cooked the bit out for a smaller one. Now,
slab of meat off the grill. Flipping As I mentioned, the handles of the you’ll want to form a few shallow
that juicy, perfectly seasoned pork tools all share a common shape, so counterbores in the ends of the fork
chop with a utensil you made? Near you might as well work them in a and flipper. These will accept the
perfection. By utilizing a few simple batch. Start off at the drill press. heads of the brass rivets later. Now,
metalworking tools in your wood- Use a brad point bit to define the you can step the bit size down even
shop, you can produce a set of grill- radius of the teardrop hanging hole.
ing tools fit for the most decorated
grill masters. 12 PHOTOS BY LOGAN WITTMER & JACK COYIER

As you can see in the main photo 1-2 At the drill press, drill the holes needed in the handles. These include the
above, the tools I made here are cer- hanging hole, rivet locations (with counterbore), and the scraper holes.
tainly a matching set. The mahogany
handles share a common shape.
At the business is where each of
them differ a little bit. The fork and
flipper require a little bit of metal
working. The grill scraper has a head
that’s easily replaced once it’s used
up. Upon first glance, you might
ask why a wooden scraper? Well,
the wood head does a great job of
cleaning grates and doesn’t have the
nasty habit of leaving metal spears
like wire brushes.

30 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING

Grilling Tools

34 5
6
further. You’ll punch this bit all the 3 Carefully set the height of a 7
way through the rivet locations (for dado blade. 9
the rivet post), and locate a few 4 Use the rip fence to locate the
holes in the scraper. The holes need- beginning of the rabbet and guide
ed in the scraper are for attaching the scraper handle blank with a
the handle and for a pair of binding miter gauge.
posts to mount the head. 5 Create the kerf in the prong
handle by using a tenoning jig and a
At this point it’s time to do some flat-ground ripping blade.
sawing. The first task is to set a 6 At the bandsaw, carefully cut the
dado blade to form the rabbet for outside shape of the handles.
the scraper head. You can see this 7 To form the slot for the flipper
in Photo 3 and 4 above. Next, use a blade, set the bandsaw fence and
tenon jig to form a slot in the end of make a kerf before flipping the
the fork handle. Finally, head to the workpiece over and making another
bandsaw to shape the outside of the kerf. Widen the kerf if necessary by
handles. While you’re here, create slightly adjusting the fence.
the slightly narrower slot in the 8 A coping saw and some delib-
flipper handle. Set the fence up and erate sawing will quickly form the
make a couple of passes to form the teardrop hanging hole.
slot (Photo 7). 9 One of my favorite tools for doing
light, precise routing—the poor-
Back at the workbench, cut the man’s router table!
hanging hole to shape with a coping
saw. Any fine-tuning can be done 8
with some needle files and sand
paper. To make the handles a little
more comfortable to hold, round
over the edges with sandpaper or
a roundover bit. For something as
small as these handles, I’ll often
mount the roundover bit in a hand-
held router and clamp the body of
the router in my vise at the bench.
This inverted router acts like a min-
iature router table and is the perfect
way to do small routing operations
on small-sized workpieces. After
rounding over the handles, you can
go ahead and do all of your finish
sanding — once the metal is added,
you won’t want to accidentally
scratch it.

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 31

Grilling Tools

A Little Metalwork locations. Now, drill the rivet holes. them. Otherwise a couple of pieces
of scrap wood placed between the
Now onto the business end of things. As you look at the shape on the jaws and steel will do the trick. Use
a hack saw to cut the steel to shape.
Here, that means a little metalwork- next page, you’ll notice the inside Keep the pieces low in the vise to
prevent vibration as you cut. With
ing. Because these tools are made “V” of the fork has a radius, along some careful cutting, you’ll have
just a little bit of cleanup work to do
with stainless steel, they’re a little with the transition between the flip- with a file.

tougher to work than mild steel, but per blade and handle. These are best At this point, set the fork aside
and square up the flipper in the vise.
not too bad. As before, we’re going to define with larger drill bits, rather Use the largest hammer you have
to help bend the flipper to shape. A
to start at the drill press. than trying to file them in later.

After roughing in the outline With the holes drilled, head over

of the utensils on the steel with to your vise in preparation to cut

a marker, position the handle for the steel to shape. A pair of soft

each over the metal blanks and use jaws will help avoid scratching up

a center punch to transfer the hole the steel, so use them if you have

10 11 12
13 14
10 Use a center punch to transfer
15 16 the handle hole locations to the
metal blanks.
32 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
11 Some machining oil helps the bit
cut the metal without gumming up.

12 Careful of the shavings. They’re
both sharp and hot.

13 Mount the steel in the vise and
cut it to shape with a hack saw.

14 A little bit of file work will smooth
out the profile and remove any
sharp edges from cutting.

15 Take your time to square up the
flipper blank in the vise. This will
result in a square, even bend.

16 A pair of wide block in the vise
jaws as well as a block to cushion
the hammer blows yields a smooth
bend in the flipper head.

17 Hammer the rivets into place.

18 Assemble the scraper compo-
nents.

Grilling Tools Grill Scraper, Flipper, & Fork

17 R1" GRILL SCRAPER
R1/4" 11/8"
18 R1/8"
11/4"
wide, oversized piece of hardwood 15/32" 1"
helps distribute the blows evenly
and get a smooth bend. 3" 1/2"

Now you’re ready to assemble FRONT HANDLE SIDE
the tools. Start with the flipper and VIEW
fork. Slide the heads into place and FRONT VIEW
use a pair of brass rivets to secure
everything together. A pair of needle 3/8"
nose pliers holds the rivets as you
start hammering, and a few solid 11/8"
blows on the back of your vise will 7/8"
permanently secure the rivets.
4"
Assembling the scraper is just
a little more work. Shape the 14 3/8"
front handle of the scraper at the
bandsaw and round it over. This 5 7/8" 3 11/16" 70˚
gets mounted with screws from the
bottom side. To create the scraper SCRAPER BLADE SIDE
blade, simply cut a piece of hard- VIEW
wood and bevel the end with a block FRONT VIEW
plane. This gets mounted to the D5/32" 7/8" 5/8"
handle with a pair of binding posts. 11/16" 3/16"
After everything is assembled, a few
coats of mineral oil will prepare 3/4" 21/4" 3 1/2" Materials:
them for a dance above the coals. D1/4"
PW— Chris Ftich Item No. Product
R1/8" 11/8" 9085K51
304 Stainless Steel
3 1/2" SIDE VIEW 992K814
(3" x 12" - .0630 thick)
HANDLE 96082A200
94887A362 304 Stainless Steel
FRONT VIEW
(1.5" x 12" - .125 thick)
R3/4"
.149" Press Rivets

Binding posts

R1/4" 11/16" All items are purchased from
McMaster-Carr, www.mcmaster.com.

7/8" FLIPPER & FORK

NOTE: Each handle is slightly different.

• The fork handle is 1.5" longer than noted here.
• The slot at the bottom of the handle is 1/16" wide

for the flipper and 1/8" for the fork.

10 5/8"

11/4"

5/16"
15/16"

R 3/16" 2 3/8" 11/4"

dia. 5/32"

R 3/16"

4 3/8" 5 1/4"

dia. 5/32"

19/16" 2 1/2"

5/8" 15/16"

3/8" 5/8" 3" FORK
11/4" SIDE VIEW
FLIPPER
HANDLE

FRONT VIEW

Shop-Made
Outdoor Yard Games

Kubb PROJECT #2207_ PHOTOS BY LOGAN WITTMER, JACK COYIER & COLLIN KNOFF

Viking Chess Skill Level:
Beginner
Time: 1 Day
Cost: $30

Online Extras Ladder Golf

Game Rules PROJECT #2208_

Looking for set up and game rules for any of these games? Skill Level:
We have you covered.Check out the link below for everything Intermediate
you need to know to play each of these games. Time: 1 Day
Cost: $75
www.PopularWoodworking.com/GameRules

Need a new yard game or two for your next get-together?
Here’s three: Kubb, Ladder Golf, and Lawn Darts. By PW Staff

Lawn Darts

PROJECT #2209_

Skill Level:
Advanced
Time: 1 Day
Cost: $85

Spring and Summer. Across a little time in the shop, working on isn’t your standard, cheaply made
the US, the warm weather bodes of a game, then getting to go out and PVC version that you buy in the
grill-outs, picnics, and get-togethers. reap the reward of playing it. store. This cherry and maple set has
During you next gathering, why not removable legs for easy storage.
have a little extra fun by introducing The three games shown here are
your friends and family to one of of varying skill level, to both create Finally, I take on a forbidden
these shop-made games? and play. Danielle tackles the first game from the past: lawn darts.
game in the list: Kubb. It’s an easy- While this game is still banned for
Whether you’re a beginner or a to-make game that the entire family sale in the USA, you can make your
shop veteran, you’ll find some fun can play. You can build it as simple own set in your shop. It just requires
challenges in each of these games. as you'd like, or try your hand at a a little bit of basic metal working
Plus, building a simple project such little power carving to add some and some time turning at the lathe.
as these yard games is a great way to detail like Danielle did. At the end of the day, each one of
introduce someone to woodwork- these games is as much fun to play,
ing. Kids especially enjoy spending Next, Collin tackles a recent fa- as they are to build.
vorite: ladder golf. His set, however,

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 35

Outdoor Yard Games

1 Kubb game, but there's enough for an rout an additional groove 2" down
Viking Chess extra king to practice on.) Next, cut from the top on one set of Kubbs.
the 1 1/4" poplar dowel to 8" long
I’m sure you’re thinking, what’s for the stakes and the 1 1/2" dowel Since the king is royalty and he
Kubb? The original name, “Kubb- to 12" long. A wooden handscrew has all the bells and whistles, we are
spel,” translates (roughly) into is a great way to hold the dowel going to add a little more detail by
“throwing block game.” The goal is in place so it doesn’t roll or move giving him a crown and a rounded
simple: knock over wooden “Kubbs” during the cut. head. First, make three V-shaped
or soldiers by throwing sticks or grooves on all sides at 1 1/8", 3 7/8",
batons at them, followed by the king. The last step on the miter saw is to and 4 1/2" from the top. The first
With two teams and a few basic cut one end of the stakes to a point. groove is the bottom of the crown,
rules, this game is fun for all ages! Set the miter saw at 45° and make the second is the bottom of the face,
Plus, it’s super easy-to-build. the first cut. Rotate the stake 90° and and the third is the bottom of his
cut again. Repeat this twice more to collar. To make his crown a little
Prep with Miter Saw form the point for your stakes. Do more crown-like, rout across the top
this for the other five stakes. of the king at 1" and 2" going both
The Kubb set is made with two directions. This creates gives the
Douglas fir 4" x 4" pieces, 8' long, Onto the Hand Router appearance of a crown.
one 1 1/4" poplar dowel (4' long),
and one 1 1/2" poplar dowel (8' To help bring these game pieces to Next Up, Carving
long). First, plane the Douglas fir life, let’s add some details using a
to 3" x 3". The Kubbs get cut to hand router. For the soldiers, rout Using a chisel and a knife, round the
6" long and the King to 12" long. a V-shaped groove around all four head of your king. The chisel gets
(You’ll only need 1 King for the sides 1" from the top. Then, to dif- rid of large chips first and the knife
ferentiate the teams from each other, helps you refine the shape.

12 1 Cut the parts to size with a
miter saw.

2 A stop block creates multi-
ple, identical sized parts.

3 Use a handscrew with
a V-notch cut in it to keep
round objects, like this dowel,
from rolling.

4 Angle the blade of the
miter saw and make a series
of miter cuts to sharpen the
ends of the stakes.

3 4

36 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING

Kubb (Viking Chess)

11/4" 1" Cut List
2 3/4"
A No. Item Dimensions (in.)
5/8" TW L
1" 5 A Team 1 kubbs 33 6
1" 5 B Team 2 kubbs 33 6
1 C King 3 3 12
6 D Stakes 11/4 11/4 8
6 E Battens 11/2 11/2 12

CB D

11/4" ~1"

56 7
9
5 A router, edge guide, and a 8
V-groove bit create the details on
the kubbs.

6 A series of v-grooves are routed in
the top of the king.

7 Reposition the edge guide to
create the lower groove on the king.

8 A chisel does a lot of the heavy lift-
ing to start shaping the king’s head.

9 Flip over to a sharp Sloyd knife to
smooth out the shape.

Outdoor Yard Games

10 11

10 Add texture to the pieces with an around the top of the stake about the hammered look of armor used
angle grinder. an inch down to give it to the same during the Viking era. The texture
look as the King and Kubbs. Finally, is added to the bottom half of the
11 The Arbortech is designed for carve the sides of the stake point to king and the top section of the
power carving, like I did on the king appear round. soldiers. Note: When using this tool,
and Kubbs. think “light as a feather.” You don’t
Final Touches need much pressure at all to get a
Next, using the carving knife, textured look.
round both ends of the batons to All that is left is three final details
remove the rough edges so they do if you'd like to spice them up. All that’s left is to sand and finish.
not rub against the players’ hands First, use a Dremel to define some I used a dark stain on all the pieces
when thrown. Lastly, there are dimples in the crown to resemble with the exception of the top part of
three carved details on the stakes. jewels. Next, add texture to the the stakes and the batons, which I
First, round the top end of the king and the soldiers with an angle painted red. Once it’s dry, it’s time
stake. Then add v-shaped groove grinder (I used an Arbortech power for you to see why this game is so
carving unit). The goal is to create much fun! PW — Danielle Lowery

2 Ladder Golf

Professional-sized ladder golf sets
are larger and more robust than
the chintzy ones you usually find
in yard game kits. This project is a
great way to use some long skinny
scrap pieces too.

Build the Sides 12

Plane your side boards to 7/8” thick- 12 When they say you can’t have too many clamps, it's longer glue-ups like
ness, then rip four 15/16” wide strips these that they’re talking about.
of cherry and two 1/2" strips of maple.
Edge glue the sides, sandwiching the
maple between pieces of cherry, and
allow to dry. Once the glue is cured,
it’s back to the planer, where you can
dial in the final thickness of 3/4" thick.

38 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING

13

14 16 17

13-14 When cutting the dado for the legs, take your time
to cut the two outside edges exactly.

15 With the width accurately defined, clearing out the
middle is a breeze.

16 You can’t see it from this angle, but these dowels are
taped together to prevent them from shifting while cutting.

17 Gang cutting all four sides at once will guarantee

15 they’re all the exact same length.

The Legs dowels and score-keeping system. glued into the respective openings.
Install a 1" Forstner bit into your There’s a few things to pay attention
While you’re waiting for the glue to drill press, and set your fence so the to though.
dry on the sides, go ahead and start hole will be exactly centered on the
on the legs. Start with 3/4" thick lum- sides. Drill the three dowel holes on While a dry-fit test run is usually
ber and trim to 37" long. Then, install each side, centered 13" apart. Next, a good idea, dowels tend to like
a dado stack in your table saw and set swap in a 3/8" bit to drill the hole for to bind, which can cause compli-
the blade height to 5/16". Make passes the feet. Drill the hole in the side cations. What you’ll want to do is
on the saw until the opening is 17/8" first, then use it to align the hole for pay attention as you’re assembling
wide. You’ll want to double check the legs. You’ll also want to drill a to make sure nothing is fitting too
the exact measurements of your side small recess for the t-nut. tightly in a way that would split the
pieces for a nice tight fit. wood. If it really feels like a dowel
You don’t have to include a way doesn’t want to go in, take the time
The Dowels to keep score on your ladder golf to sand it down a bit more.
set, but it really elevates the build
Getting the dowels ready is the eas- — pick one side piece and drill two Once you’ve completed assembly
iest part of this build — simply trim rows of 21 holes each running be- of a ladder, make sure it lays flat
six 1" dowels to 25 1/2" long and sand tween the top middle rungs. on your workbench while the glue
lightly. That’s it! is still wet. The sides need to be
parallel to make sure it sits evenly
Drill Some Holes Assembly on your lawn.

Now that your sides are assembled, The assembly process from here is Oh, and don’t forget to make sure
it’s time to drill the holes for the fairly direct— the dowels need to be your score holes are facing outward!

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 39

Outdoor Yard Games

18 19 20
22
18 The contrasting wood pattern 21
will make any inaccuracy more
noticeable, so take your time setting
the fence.

19-20 Drill the hole for the threaded
knob into the side first, then use that
as a guide for the leg hole

21 You only need to keep score on
one side.

22 Add a fun pop of color with the
score pins.

23 24 23 Start your dowels with the side laying on your work-
bench. If they’re not wanting to go in, now is your chance
25 to sand a bit more.

40 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING 24 Once all three dowels are started, flip the piece over
and finish tapping with the mallet until each one is flush.

25 Unlike the dowels, the t-nut should be installed with
a hammer.

Finishing and Final Steps connector. Installing this after you You’ll definitely need to sand down
stain gives you one less thing to the end that goes into the hole a
Finishing is usually the last step of stain around and helps ensure better bit so it’s easy to move the rods as
the process, but there’s a correct protection against moisture. the game goes on. Sand too much
order of operations that will make though and they’ll be inclined to
your life a bit easier. Once the glue For the score keeping rods, fall out.
is totally dry, finish the ladder golf cut one 1" piece of brass rod, and
set with an exterior finish of your another one of aluminum rod, and And there you have it! To set up,
choice (I used spar urethane) and lightly sand. For the color drops simply affix the sides to the legs
allow to set. Then, go ahead and to the end, I used model car paint using the threaded knob, and then
install the t-nut for the side/leg for a nice high-gloss metallic look. go have fun! PW — Collin Knoff

Ladder Golf

251/2" 1" MAKE IT FOLDABLE:
24" 12"
Attach the feet to the legs
using threaded inserts and
star knobs.

12" 2"

FRONT VIEW ABA

C 23/8"

1/4" dia.

1/4"

1/4" dado

1/2"

3/4"
11/4"

C

Cut List SCORE BOARD:

No. Item Dimensions (in.) • A winning game is the first team to 21 points.
TW L
8 A Sides (outside) 3/4 3/4 40 • Keep score by drilling 21 holes on each side.
4 B Sides (inside) 3/4 1/2 40
6 C Ladder rungs 7/8 7/8 25 1/2 • For score markers, use 1/4" dia. by 1" long rods.
4 D Feet 3/4 2 37
13" 22"
D

SIDE VIEW

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 41

Outdoor Yard Games

3 Lawn Darts playing field. We take no responsibil- through hole in the brass, using a Ja-
ity for anyone not using their heads. cob’s chuck in the tail stock (Photo
Growing up, I remember listening And please: don’t drink and dart. 27). After drilling the through hole,
to stories from my dad and grandpa chuck a 1/2" bit in the Jacob’s chuck
talking about how much fun they The Metal Tip and drill the counter-
had playing lawn darts. That is, until bore. Flip the ferrule end-for-end
the US Consumer Product Safety Building a set of lawn darts starts by and use a bowl gouge to round off
Commission banned the sale of them forming the metal tip. This is two the end of the brass. Finally, solder
in the late 80’s. While talking about parts —the steel point and a brass the brass and steel together. Use a
what games each of us would make ferrule. This weight at the front end quality flux to allow the solder to
for this issue, I thought breathing of the dart allows them to fly cor- grab to both pieces of metal.
life into this old game would be fun. rectly when thrown. Start by cutting
the steel tip to size. You can taper 26 Taper the steel tip with a drill
Before we start, here’s my dis- the point using a file, or if you have a and sander. I left the point in a small
claimer. Lawn dart sales are banned belt or disc sander, chuck it in a drill radius, so it’s not “sharp”.
in the USA for a reason. Injuries have and go to town. You can see this in
occurred while playing lawn darts. Photo 26 below. 27 Drill a through hole for the steel
If you decide to make a set of these tip and a larger counterbore for the
like I have, please use caution during After cutting a piece of brass tenon on the dart.
their use, and ensure that children stock to size, hold it in a scroll chuck
and pets are kept far away from the at the lathe. Standard high speed 28 Round the tip of the ferrule with
steel (or carbide) tools will turn a bowl or spindle gouge.
brass easily, but make light cuts.
Flatten one face before drilling a 29 Solder the two tip parts together.

26 27

28 29

42 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING

Lawn Darts

10 1/2"

1/2" 1/4" 13/8" D 7/8" 3/8"
3/4"
Taper body of dart
Ferrule attaches SCALE: 50% to a final length
over this tenon of 14"
1 square = 0.5 inch
Rod inserted into the
body of the dart 1/2"
3/4"
11/2" A Steel point
3/4" B Brass ferrule 3 5/8"
C Counterbore
A C 1/2" 1/4"
3/4" in ferrule
4 1/4" 3/4" D Body of dart
E Fin
B

Supplies Needed: 1/8" 5"

Item No. Product Dimensions (in.) E
TWL
18953K95 Ultra-machinable 360 brass rod 2 7/16"
28893K204 Tight-tolerance oil-hardening tool steel rod 3/4 - 24
38752K311 Slippery white UHMW polyethylene sheet 1/4 - 36 NOTE: Half-lap
44296A611 Slippery black UHMW sheet 1/8 12 36 slot is on opposing
1/8 12 36 ends of the fin blanks

All items are purchased from McMaster-Carr, www.mcmaster.com. 5/8"
Also needed are two leg turning blanks 36"- long, 2 darts per blank.

Next, a Pair of Fins Using the above as a pattern, 30 Use a push block to hold the
trace the shape of the fins onto HDPE down while you’re creating a
Opposite the tip is a pair of fins. These the kerfed blank. At the bandsaw, kerf. This will create a half-lap joint
are made from 1/8"-thick HDPE plas- cut the fins to shape. After you are that will join the two fins together.
tic. After cutting blanks to size, I used done, the blanks may be slight-
the table saw to create a kerf down the ly fuzzy on the edge. I found a 31 Carefully cut the fins to shape.
center of each fin section. This will sharp razor blade (or utility knife) Make smooth cuts, as the HDPE
become a half-lap joint that allows the cleaned up any fuzz left from the is hard to reshape after the initial
two fins to slip together. Simply make saw. With the fins set aside, it’s cuts are made. Light scraping
the cut at the table saw, stopping just time to head back to the lathe to can be done with a razor blade
over half-way through the blank. You create the dart. to remove fuzz.
can see this in Photo 30.

30 31

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 43

Outdoor Yard Games

Body of the Darts 32 33
34
For the body of my darts, I used 35
2" x2" maple turning blanks. These
are often sold as leg blanks, and you
can get two darts per blank.

Start with the square stock held in
the chuck jaws and rough it round.
Leave the end in the jaws square
for now— you’ll see why later. After
roughing, you’ll create the attach-
ment point for the tip. Start with a
deep hole for the shaft of the steel
tip. Then, after locating the live
center in the just-drilled hole, turn
a tenon to fit the counterbore in the
brass ferrule. This process is shown
in the top two photos at right.

Now, for the sake of turning four
identical darts, I use a parting tool to
make a couple of depth marks. Doing
this allowed me to get consistently
shaped and sized darts. As you see in
Photo 34, I’m basically marking the
largest and smallest diameters on the
blank as a target. After that’s done, I
use a sharp spindle roughing gouge to
turn the shape of the dart. By riding
the bevel of the spindle roughing
gouge, you have great control and
can make fluid, smooth shapes. A
planing cut with the wing of the tool
(or a skew) leaves a smooth surface
that requires minimal sanding.

Now comes the tricky part—
making the slot in the tail of the
dart to receive the fins. The easiest
and safest way I found to do this
was at the bandsaw. You’re looking
for slots that are 1/8"-wide and
centered. This means making (at
least) two passes per slot with a
bandsaw blade. Position your fence
and run the square, chuck-held end

32 The hole is for the long shank on the steel tip. 36

33 A tenon is turned on the end of the dart to seat inside
the counterbore within the ferrule.

34 Mark guidelines with a parting tool. Here, I’m marking
the largest and smallest diameter of the dart.

35 Hog away material with a spindle roughing gouge.
Connect the two depth marks and smooth out the shape.

36 Final smoothing and blending is done with sandpaper.

44 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING

of the dart along the fence. Make cess slot-filler and mounted the dart However, I like the natural color of
the slot along one axis first before back in the lathe. The scroll chuck the wood, and I let the two different
rotating the blank 90° to make the grips the brass ferrule, while the live colored fins differentiate between
second slot. If necessary, you can center is carefully positioned at the the two team’s darts. A simple coat
clean up the slot with a small file. junction of the slot fillers. Make sure of spar varnish added enough pro-
After slipping the fins together, you it’s as centered as you can get here tection for me.
can slide them into the slot. Cut a so you don’t have any wobble in
few bits of scrap to fill in the back your darts. Lastly, the Target
portion of the slot and glue them in
place (Photo 37). I used matching Turn the dart slowly —you’ll feel Now, there is one final piece of
maple for mine, but some inter- the wind whipping off the fins as this lawn dart game, and that’s the
esting effects could be had with the dart turns. The HDPE probably target. Traditionally, a ring about
contrasting wood. won’t cut you if it hits your hand, 30" in diameter is the target. In
but it will give you a wake up call. some games, a smaller 16" ring is
While the glue on the slot-filler is Just keep your hand, tool rest, also included that’s worth extra
drying, you can take a few minutes and tools clear of the fin area. Use points. The original sets had plastic
to whip together some 5-minute light planing cuts to trim down the rings included in them. However,
epoxy. This will be used to mount slot-fillers. I added a subtle taper to I can imagine a rigid ring getting
the tip on the dart. As you can see the ends of each of the darts. After I beat up with the occasional dart hit.
in Photo 38, get epoxy all over the was happy with the overall shape, a Instead, I use a simple rope ring.
steel tip and down into the count- little bit of hand sanding along the It folds up nicely and is easy to lay
er-bore. Push the tip in place and axis smooths everything out. out. Alternatively, ground marking
wipe away any excess epoxy that spray paint would make a good
squeezes out. Finishing the darts is a matter of option as well. Which ever route
personal preference. Bright paint you choose, I’m sure you’ll have
After the epoxy and glue is cured, colors might not be a bad idea — a ball with this game. Play safe.
you’re ready to finish out the darts. I not only would they be protected, PW — Logan Wittmer
used a block plane to trim down ex- but they’d also be highly visible.

37 38 37 Use spring clamps to keep
pressure on the dart while the fillers
are glued in place.

38 Plenty of epoxy creates a
permanent bond between the dart
and tip.

39 Carefully trim away excess filler
with a spindle roughing gouge.

40 Blend the tail of the dart together
with a little bit of hand sanding,
following the length of the dart.

39 40

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 45

Outdoor Kitchen PHOTOS BY JACK COYIER

This outdoor kitchen keeps everything needed for
an outdoor gathering close at hand.

By Logan Wittmer
PROJECT #2210_

Skill Level:
Intermediate
Time: 5 Days
Cost: $800

If you live in the Midwest, you’ll properties. With the grill lit, the 1
know that we’re a get-together type outside gets warm. You won’t burn
of people. I’m sure that’s a true yourself by brushing up against it, 2
statement across the US. And while but it’s certainly not hot enough to
the current situation has put a bit burn the cart (it’s like touching a 3
of a damper on this summertime piece of metal that’s sitting out in
tradition, I hope that things will the sun). This cart is not designed 1 Use a test workpiece to dial in the
eventually return to normal. So, in for a kettle-style grill, which is sheet size of the dado.
anticipation for the next summer- metal and would get extremely hot 2 After verifying that the stretchers
time cookout, I wanted to build during cooking. I also would not use will fit in the test piece, use it as a
an outdoor kitchen to house my my kamado grill at extremely high setup to position the fence before
kamado-style grill and pizza oven. temperatures (800°+). That’s my notching all the legs.
The results are seen here. disclaimer—make some great food 3 The top notch only requires one
but don’t light the kitchen on fire! setup of the fence. Position the
Now, I have to admit something. fence to locate the bottom of the
This outdoor kitchen actually start- Start With the Legs notch and nibble away the waste.
ed as a much smaller grill cart, with
the intention of it being on wheels. As you look at the main photo on
Then, it evolved into a grill island. the previous page, you’ll notice that
Finally, it graduated into a grill con- the outdoor kitchen is divided into
tinent. As I started measuring and three sections—the grill section
laying out everything, I quickly real- with lower drawer, the charcoal
ized that the outdoor kitchen would bin pull-out, and the double door
be rather large, and not everyone cabinet. The construction of each of
would want an outdoor kitchen this these is identical: a pair of front and
large. So, that led to designing this back legs connected by rails. Some
piece to be fairly modular. Even sections, depending on where they
though this kitchen ends up being are located, have more rails and oth-
nearly 7 feet long, it’s easy to trim it ers have panels in them. By adding
down and customize it to what you or removing these leg sections, you
need — more on that in a bit. can customize the size and layout of
your kitchen.
Before we step into the shop
and walk through the construction, The first thing we need to start
the final thing I want to touch on with is the legs. I used some 4x4
is the material I’ve used. Original- stock and planed them down to
ly, I planned on building this out clean them up. The series of legs are
of iroko to match my picnic table. all connected by a top and bottom
However, working with the dense stretcher. To make a connection
African hardwood comes with some point for the stretcher, we’re going
challenges and would be a pretty to cut some dadoes and notches in
pricey endeavor. Instead, I opted to each of the legs. To do this, I loaded a
build this from construction-grade blade up in the table saw. As you can
cedar. A combination of 4x4s, 2x4s, see in Photo 1, I used the miter gauge
2x6s, and cedar fence pickets are with an auxiliary fence on the miter
readily available at nearly every big gauge to guide the workpiece during
box store. However, any weather-re- the cut. The auxiliary miter gauge
sistant wood would work— iroko, fence is fresh, and this “zero-clear-
teak, white oak, cedar, redwood, and ance” fence helps reduce tearout on
cypress would all be great options. the backside the workpiece.
After finishing this kitchen, however,
I think cedar was the right call for After creating the lower dado, I
my application. set the rip fence to position the end
of the top notch and cut this in the
And finally, I want to note that top of each leg. With all the notch-
this cart is designed for a kama- es cut, I found it to be a good idea
do-style grill. These grills are to stand them all up and pick the
ceramic and have great insulating best-looking legs for the front of

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 47

Outdoor Kitchen

56

478

4 An edge guide and router makes
creating the mortises a breeze.

5 Cut the face of each tenon first.

6 Flip the workpiece on edge and
finish off the tenon.

7 Rout the grooves for the panels
in the legs. These grooves run from
mortise to mortise.

8 Form the matching groove inside
the rail. Make sure to always refer-
ence the edge guide off the outside
face of the workpiece.

9 A couple of pairs of cauls
wrapped in packing tape help keep

9 thin panels flat during glue up.

the kitchen. I labeled each leg with the rails, it’s time to hit the table saw were going to have panels (the grill
its position... “F1, F2, B1, B2” etc. one more time. Here, you’ll use the bay only has lower panels), and
Each front and back pair of legs is dado blade to form the tenons on the every bay back has panels. To create
connected with rails. Tenons on the end of the rails. With the tenons cut, a groove for the panels, I used the
rails mate with mortises in the legs. round over the corners of the tenons router and edge guide again. This
Cutting the mortises is easily done to match the mortises. I just did this groove is routed on the inside of
with a plunge router and edge guide. free-hand with a chisel and mallet. each rail (Photo 8, above) and on
The soft cedar allows you to make a the inside of the legs. The illustra-
full-depth mortise in one pass. With the rails dry-fit to the legs, tions will show the locations of each
you can decide what’s getting panels groove, at least in my layout.
After planing down 2x4 material for and what isn’t. Both of my ends

48 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING