Vogue SG 01.02 2022

Magdaleno, Dixie, Gauthier, Jeanne, Amanda and Fanta
Valentino Le Progrès Collection
shot by Michael Bailey Gates at Le Progrès.
1 Rue du Bretagne, Paris 3ème, 29th July 2021

Daniel, Dixie and Michelle VALENTINO.COM ION ORCHARD MARINA BAY SANDS

CONTENTS

054

InVOGUE

022 EDITOR’S PICKS
From the perfect velvet pantsuit to
chic and quirky charms, cover all
your bases with our edit of the best
red pieces of the season.

024 INNER PIECE
Get creative and pair bralet tops
with chunky wardrobe staples,
from sweaters to midi dresses.

026 THE MOD SQUAD
Swing right back to the ’60s with
a postmodernist twist on classic
retro staples.

028 SLIP UP
Ease into slinky strap dresses and
elegant slips that’ll take you from
day to night.

030 COME TOGETHER

Textured and draped pieces define Gucci’s century of elegance a statement of jubilance and a

serve up drama and elegance in and irreverence. preparation for take-off.

equal measure.

042 THE EDIT 054 MISS VOGUE

032 DON’T SWEAT IT Elevating the everyday ordinary Ashley Park of Emily in Paris

Add that little extra flair to your into something extraordinary. talks to Vogue Singapore about

rainy day ensemble with a sweater- Broadway, owning her power as

meets-scarf combination. 048 TEN FEET TALL an Asian-American actress and

Meet Alok Menon, Erwinshah her journey in season two of the

034 LOVE IS IN THE AIR Hassan and Shaobo Han, the Netflix phenomenon.

Meet Susan Fang, the fashion disruptors across New

Shanghainese designer who uses York and Singapore who are

innovative textiles and handmade degendering heels.

techniques to create collections

inspired by the allure of nature. 051 VOGUE VIEWPOINT

Model-turned-entrepreneur Serena

036 PRESS PLAY Adsit discusses grace, kindness

The cruise 2022 collections were and what it really means to pave

a declaration of liberation in the your own way.

form of playful minidresses and

barely-there skirts. 052 OUT OF THIS WORLD

Louis Vuitton’s cruise 2022

038 HEAT AND BEND collection, in the hands of creative

Here is how bamboo has helped director Nicolas Ghesquière, was

08

MAXMARA.COM
SINGAPORE - MANDARIN GALLERY #01-10/02-11 (FRANCHISEE MAX MARA)

CONTENTS
100

BEAUTY the past to discover some of the 077 CLASSIC WITH A TWIST
most prized and potent traditional Tiffany & Co brings us a collection
that symbolises all that we love
062 COMING UP ROSES medicinal ingredients powering and hold dear.

Roses may age and wither, but they today’s ‘skinnovations’ and 078 DIAMOND STATUS
Lily Collins’s latest role as global
never lose their beauty. There’s a modern remedies. ambassador for Cartier’s Clash
[Un]Limited collection cements her
lesson to be learnt in this exalted love for fashion.

flower, which represents grace, 068 REBIRTH IN RED 080 TREASURE SEEKING
There is much joy to be found
beauty and, of course, amour. Strength. Confidence. Passion. in the textural details of this
season’s jewellery, says Rachel
Everything you expect from Garrahan.

063 NIKI yourself is echoed in these vibrant

This Indonesian vocalist, and unapologetically bold new

songwriter and producer, known year beauty looks.

for her melodic, narrative-driven VITRINE
tracks, continues to blaze her
own path while advocating for

up-and-coming Asian talent in the 074 LIFE IN MONO

music industry. Harness the power of one with our

pick of the season’s most stylish

064 SPICE MARKET mono earrings.

Make a statement in these down-

to-earth neutrals. 075 AMERICAN BEAUTY

The star of Harry Winston’s New

065 GOOD GRACE York collection pays tribute to

Liz Milani, writer, spiritual mentor one of the city’s most striking

and co-creator of The Practice Co architectural marvels.

App, lives and shares authentically

about living in the grip of grace. 076 SMALL WONDER

Petite watches stand tall with

066 ROOTED emblematic designs elevated by

Delve into the beauty cabinets of precious and ornamental stones.

10



CONTENTS

134

LIFE

086 THE NEW CURRY HOUSE
We spotlight modern Indian
cuisine and speak with three of
Singapore’s best chefs on what it
means to update a cuisine that has
been around for centuries.

088 EMOTIONAL INCLUSION
Protection of emotional health and
mental well-being should be part
of every organisation’s DNA, says
Mollie Jean De Dieu.

089 A NEW WORLD
Krista Kim, our first metaverse
editor, interprets the concept of
grace in the digital interface and
recommends an artist whose work
encapsulates that sentiment.

090 PERFECT PROTÉGÉ

British actress Taj Atwal on

how she has found balance and

redefined her sense of freedom. aspirations and about dealing with CULTURE
092 TIME CAPSULE being the hottest and most-talked
about K-pop artists in the world.

Designer Frank Chou exercises his 171 FALL FROM GRACE

signature design ethos for Louis 134 FAN BINGBING A compelling narrative and a boost

Vuitton’s Objets Nomades. The Chinese superstar, fashion from an algorithm is all you need to

icon and red carpet queen has kept start an online movement. So what

093 VOGUE GUIDES her wits in place throughout her do we do when this movement

With the gradual reopening of long career and there’s no stopping turns against us?

borders, it’s time to start planning her now.

your itinerary, beginning with our 176 LET THE SUNSHINE IN

pick of top experiences in four of 148 ALL WHO WANDER A visit to John Galliano’s treasure-

the world’s chicest cities. The flame-coloured sand dunes of filled home in Northern France

GRACE Abu Dhabi, which surround that befits the idiosyncratic beauty
the breathtaking Qasr Al Sarab of his tenure at Maison Margiela.
Desert Resort by Anantara, set

100 BTS the tone for the season’s languid 186 ARTIST-IN-RESIDENCE

The seven charismatic members of utilitarian styles. Paris-based performance artist

BTS—a band that’s synonymous and painter Caroline Denervaud

with K-pop’s rise to international 160 UP ALL NIGHT interprets the meaning of grace by

prominence; that has transcended Party the night away in this urging self-introspection.

cultural and language barriers— season’s most glamorous looks.

speak to Vogue about their music,

12



EDITORIAL PUBLISHED BY CONDÉ NAST
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International Creative Fashion Director Daniela Paudice
Chief People Officer Stan Duncan
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Associate Fashion Features Editor Maya Menon
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BEAUTY Chief Data Officer Karthic Bala
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ART CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD
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Designer Vincent Loh WORLDWIDE EDITIONS
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THE
ONLINE
FASHION
AUTHORITY

.sg

Editor’sLETTER
Each issue, I choose a theme as a source of inspiration for
the shoots and stories for the book. A launching pad for co-founder of devotional app, The Practice Co, to share what it
ideas, goal posts for a discourse, and a scarlet thread to means to live in grace (turn to page 65) and her words ring deep
tether our creative patchwork. and true:
If your last year has been anything like mine, it’s been
pockmarked by clenched jaws, tight fists, and a certain white- “Grace is what allows you and me to glory in our
knuckling approach to life. After two years of life on hold, humanity. It doesn’t hide you away but lights you up. It does not
vaccinated travel lanes started opening up—see our city guide to demand perfection, but calls to the forefront authenticity, mercy,
four far-flung destinations for your next getaway starting on page compassion and courage from you when all you want to do is give
93—only to be curtailed by yet another COVID variant. Lockdowns up, go home, quit. Grace says, try again. Grace says, rise in your
rolling out again around Europe, families still separated, and the power. Grace says, dare to fail because the measure of your worth
world collectively more mentally fragile than it has been in recent is not in success but in your willingness to be here as you are.”
modern history. The result? Gracelessness.
In a culture where people are cancelled for their mistakes
Grace is inherently a Vogue staple. In fashion parlance, to instead of been forgiven, despite genuine remorse, what are
be gracious is synonymous with elegance and dignity. We see it in we teaching the next generation? What are we validating in
the whip of a tulle dress caught by the desert wind photographed our communities? Unobtainable perfection? Senior writer
by Amberly Valentine in Abu Dhabi (page 148); the arch and fluid Chandreyee Ray examines the role of forgiveness in today’s cancel
strokes of performance artist Caroline Denervaud as she captures culture in ‘Fall from grace’ (read the feature on page 171), while
her dance on canvas (see the making of her piece for Vogue fashion director Desmond Lim worked with one of our favourite
Singapore on pages 18 and 19, with the completed artwork on photographers Leslie Zhang to tell Fan Bingbing’s story (turn to
the last page); and in the ornate crystal-embellished creations of page 134) as she returns to silver screens with a star role in the
rising Shanghainese designer Susan Fang (see her latest Air Love international spy movie, The 355.
collection in our designer spotlight section on page 34).
Finally, we are honoured to have partnered with Vogue
Yet, the notion of grace has also evolved with the times. Korea to bring you our first male cover for Vogue Singapore. A
What does grace mean for fashion today? One of our original dominant force in music over the last decade, BTS has embraced
supermodels, Serena Adsit, pens an exclusive essay (see her ‘Vogue their record-breaking, not to mention Internet-breaking, success
Viewpoint’ on page 51), while associate fashion features editor with inimitable grace. See their Vogue cover story lensed by a
Maya Menon explores the liberation of men in heels (page 48) as visionary team of Asian photographers starting on page 100.
well as fashion’s penchant for rising hemlines post-war and, now,
as we slowly migrate to a post-pandemic era, as seen in the cruise As we embark on a new year, grace for me is letting go.
collections of Chanel, Coach and Versace (see page 36). Head up. Open palms. Embracing the possibilities of this
one imperfect life.
As the world evolves, so must Vogue, as a reflection of our Enjoy the issue.
times. Following on from our landmark NFT issue in September
last year—a world first for Vogue that saw all of our NFTs created Norman Tan
for that issue snapped up on OpenSea—we are introducing a Editor-in-Chief, Vogue Singapore
contributing metaverse editor for each issue in 2022. Who would
have thought that such a title would even exist just a year ago? BTS wears clothes and accessories from Louis Vuitton.
Photographer HYEA W KANG
As the fashion universe leans into the metaverse with Stylist EUNYOUNG SOHN
the creation of NFT wearables, immersive AR experiences and Make-up RM, Jihyun Kim; Jin, Dareum Kim; SUGA, Sino Choi; j-hope, Sino Choi; Jimin, Dareum
VR conferences, the introduction of a contributing metaverse Kim; V, Dareum Kim; Jung Kook, Dareum Kim
editor will connect the Vogue reader with an expert voice in the Hair RM, Som Han; Jin, Som Han; SUGA, Heungkwon Baek; j-hope, Haein Jang; Jimin, Som Han; V,
metaverse—be it an NFT creator, collector, curator or adviser, Mujin Choi; Jung Kook, Naeju Park
who will change issue to issue—as a means to highlight key
developments in the metaverse and, in tandem, recommend NFT
artworks to buy and invest (in addition to your already impressive
collection of IRL designer handbags).

And to kick off 2022, our first contributing metaverse editor
is none other than Krista Kim, an alumnus of LaSalle College
of the Arts and the creator of Mars House, the world’s first NFT
digital house that sold for over half a million dollars. In line with
Kim’s philosophy of meditative design, she has recommended
NFT digital artist Luna Ikuta for our ‘Grace’ issue, who in turn,
has created a limited-edition set of 12 translucent botanical
bouquets—shot underwater in her own unique style as seamless
video loops—that will be available for purchase as NFTs (find out
more on page 89). I look forward to this time next year when we
can look back, together, and marvel not only at our well-curated
wardrobe, but also, our handsome portfolio of NFT art.

Beyond fashion, grace is how we treat each other and
ourselves. Beauty director Alli Sim invited Liz Milani, writer and

16



Caroline Denervaud’s
work is suffused with
spirited lines, vibrant
colours and sweeping
dance movements.

Denervaud’s
work spotlights the
dichotomy between
omnipresence and
transcience in life.

Ihave always danced,” says Caroline Denervaud, who
studied contemporary dance at London’s Trinity Laban
Conservatoire of Music and Dance. The Switzerland-
born performer and painter moved to Paris after a leg
injury and continued her studies at Les Beaux Arts along with a
course in fashion at Studio Berçot. Today, her creations combine
her acquired skills in performance and visual arts: movement,
music, brushstrokes and paint. She seeks to elevate her artform to
a source of reverie; the start of a conversation and one that induces
reflection. For Vogue Singapore, she dwells on the ephemeral
nature of all things in life, where even the omnipresent is unseen.
In her interpretation of this issue’s theme of ‘Grace’, she urges the
viewer to take notice of its abundance and harness its energy.

Photography TEREZA MUNDILOVA Words SANDHYA MAHADEVAN

ARTISTin RESIDENCE
Performance artist Caroline Denervaud merges dance movements
with paint and canvas to create a synergy of emotions between artist and viewer.
See her final work for Vogue Singapore on the last page.

19



Photography JULIEN TAVEL
Fashion XANDER ANG

Saint Laurent by
Anthony Vaccarello
blazer, $4,600; shirt,
$1,470; bra, $2,000.
Burberry pants,
necklace and earrings,
prices upon request.
Givenchy shoes, $1,995

In21–97

InVOGUE Trends

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

Editor’s PICKS

From the perfect velvet pantsuit to chic and quirky charms, cover all your bases with
Vogue Singapore’s edit of the best red pieces of the season.

Edit JASMINE ASHVINKUMAR

22

6. 7.

8.

9.

10.
11.

1. Gucci jacket, $4,220 2. Givenchy medium 4G bag, $3,590 3. Cartier key fob, $740 4. Bea Bongiasca ring, €460
5. Amina Muaddi pumps, US$780 6. Courrèges dress, €590 7. Bottega Veneta mini Jodie bag, $2,500 8. Dior bracelet, $640

9. Gucci pants, $1,700 10. Lapima Paula sunglasses, $669 11. Fendi Nano Baguette charm, $1,490

23

InVOGUE Trends

Prada earring, $1,270

Dion Lee bralet, $555 Loewe Flamenco Pocket bag, $1,850 Louis Vuitton sandals, $1,660
24

THIS PAGE Inner
Louis Vuitton crop PIECE
top, $4,990, cardigan,
$3,680, skirt, $12,610, Get creative and pair
shoes, $3,550, and bralet tops with chunky
earrings, $1,320 wardrobe staples, from
sweaters to midi dresses.
FACING PAGE
Givenchy dress,
$2,900, skirt, $1,900,
bra, $350, and
necklace, price
upon request

LEFT: Burberry, Gucci,
Maryam Nassir Zadeh

The MOD
SQUAD

Swing right back to the ’60s
with a postmodernist twist on
classic retro staples.

THIS PAGE
Miu Miu dress, bag
and shoes, prices
upon request; Prada
earrings and tights,
prices upon request;
Versace necklace,
price upon request
FACING PAGE
Versace dress, price
upon request; Prada
tights and bag, prices
upon request; Saint
Laurent by Anthony
Vaccarello earrings,
$2,780

InVOGUE Trends

Chanel bag, $ 6,410

Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello
sunglasses, $490

Prada headband, $900

Fendi mini Sunshine shopper bag, $2,590 Hermès bangle, price upon request Versace heeled loafers, $2,100
27

InVOGUE Trends

Louis Vuitton Loop bag, $2,990

Burberry slip dress, price upon request Givenchy earrings, $600 Hermès barrette, price upon request
28

THIS PAGE
Jil Sander dress,
$1,850; Chloé shoes,
$930; 3.1 Phillip
Lim bag, price upon
request; Prada
earrings, price upon
request; Versace
necklace, price
upon request

FACING PAGE
3.1 Phillip Lim dress,
price upon request;
Givenchy shoes,
$1,995; Prada earrings,
price upon request

LEFT: Sacai,
Monse, Gucci

SlipUP

From slinky strap
dresses to elegant
slips, ease into looks
that’ll take you from
day to night.

Louis Vuitton top, price
upon request, and
necklace, $4,320; Miu
Miu jeans, price upon
request; Givenchy shoes,
$1,995; Saint Laurent
by Anthony Vaccarello
earrings, $2,780

Come
TOGETHER

Textured and draped pieces
serve up drama and elegance
in equal measure.

InVOGUE Trends

Loewe dress,
$4,650; Courrèges
shoes and earrings,
prices upon request

LEFT: Givenchy,
Louis Vuitton, Dior

Bottega Veneta earrings, $830

Khaite dress, $5,641 Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello sandals, Loewe bracelet pouch, $2,150
price upon request 31

InVOGUE Trends

Erdem cape, $1,620;
Miu Miu shirt, price
upon request; Ports
1961 skirt, price upon
request; Thom Browne
shoes, $2,720

Louis Vuitton phone case, $1,210

Dior Vibe hobo bag, $5,400

Loewe bracelet, $990 Loro Piana pants, $4,180 Samsung Galaxy Z Flip3, from $2,398
32

DON’T
Sweat IT

Add that little extra
flair to your rainy day
ensemble with
a sweater-meets-
scarf combination.

3.1 Phillip Lim cape,
price upon request;
Prada shirt, shoes and
earrings, prices
upon request;
Courrèges skirt,
price upon request

Hair, Rudy Martins/The
Wall Group; make-up, Eny
Whitehead/Calliste; casting,
Alexandre Junior Cyprien/
Creartvt; production,
Delphine Landes/HVH;
photographer’s assistants,
Thomas Rigade and Viola
Koczka; digital assistant,
Florian Debray; runner,
Fernanda Romero; stylist’s
assistant, Eva Polevik;
model, Greta Hajwos/
Premier Models.

InVOGUE Profile

LOVE is expression of an artistic vision. If you have a story, as long as it is
in theAIR linked with the body, you can express it. To me, that was amazing.
It felt like I was continuing to work on an art project, but related
Meet Susan Fang, the Shanghainese designer to people.”
who prides herself on innovative textiles and
handmade techniques, and creates collections Starting her own brand had always been her goal. To
inspired by the allure of nature. equip herself with practical experience and industry know-
how, the young designer took up internship and trainee roles at
EWords EMILIE CUNNINGTON Celine and Stella McCartney. Her time at both brands taught her
ven as a child, there was already an inkling that Susan the importance of having a vision as well as a commercial and
Fang would one day become a fashion designer. She sustainable mindset.
loved art and would spend hours drawing comics and
making up stories. Her mother, noticing her penchant These insights formed the building blocks of her
for dressing characters in different outfits, brought eponymous label, which started in London, but, due to the
up the idea of a career in fashion. Fang caught on to pandemic, is now mainly based in Shanghai. Since then, she has
the suggestion and, after high school, set off for London to study taken these core values and added her distinctive flair using a
fashion at Central Saint Martins. technique she developed known as air-weave, as well as unique
With fondness, Fang recounts the experience. “I realised materials including crystal glass and ribbons, to create ethereal-
that fashion is very free there. You don’t have to make a beautiful looking garments and accessories.
dress that just makes the body more appealing. Fashion can be the
The Susan Fang brand first captured the attention of the
fashion community in 2018, with bags constructed entirely out
of crystal beading. Inspired by the first time the designer went
scuba diving, the beads represent the air bubbles released from
each underwater exhalation. Gazing up towards the water’s
surface, with the sunlight filtering through the waves, Fang had
watched the bubbles float upwards and dissipate. She muses: “I
just thought, ‘What if I could capture it?’ It would be so nice, and
now, I have.” These beads have since become integral to her work;
seen not only as the frameworks of her bags, but also on footwear,
headgear and garments.

34

THIS PAGE
Two pieces from
Susan Fang spring/
summer 2022—an
air-weave dress
with crystal glass
bead detailing
and a 3D-printed
acrylic handbag.

FACING PAGE
Susan Fang’s spring/
summer 2022 show,
Air Love, in Shanghai.

“Fashion can be the expression
of an artistic vision.”

Another mark of a Susan Fang piece is the fluid-like The result is a collection of voluminous, elegant dresses
structure, achieved by air-weaving—a multi-layered construction underpinned by a light and airy tone, achieved with a new fabric
of interconnecting ribbon that bounces and changes form with manipulation technique she calls Air Flower, where strips of
the wearer’s motion. Fang developed the technique from her final printed tulle in different colours and widths are layered and folded
graduate collection exploring rhythm. “There’s something very on top of one another. The exuberant colour palette is reminiscent
beautiful in nature… the pattern of nature that connects us all. But of colours found in nature, from the pastel blue of a clear sky to the
we can’t see it. That’s very beautiful, so I always put that in the soft pinks and sensual purples of the Wisteria tree.
forefront. This is the message that I want to send and air-weave
demonstrates that idea,” she shares. For Fang, accessories are just as important to a season’s
narrative as the garments themselves. Each look in Air Love
Beyond executing this vision, another key aspect of the features an intricate headpiece with ombré poufs and stems of
technique is its sustainability. By avoiding large spools of fabric fresh flowers. The natural motif continues in the collection’s
and opting for ribbon, the label minimises deadstock and waste selection of 3D-printed bags, one of which is in the shape of an
fabric by only making what is necessary. Leftover cuts find a new unfurling chrysanthemum, chosen for its symbolic meaning
lease of life as hats, accessories or shoes, and even packaging. of strength, with a string of Fang’s signature bubble beads as
the handle.
The conversation turns towards Fang’s spring/summer
2022 collection, Air Love, which she calls “the most emotional As for what’s next on the horizon, Fang teases the idea of
collection I’ve ever done”. “I had gone through a heartbreak, but a couture line, starting with wedding dresses, which will allow
a close friend taught me that the most important thing is self- her to focus on making more handcrafted pieces. Because above
love. So, we created a collection reflecting this. I hope it can be a all, the designer declares: “I hope we can stay authentic; to use our
universal feeling, that something broken can become beautiful hands to make each product and refine our own technique; and to
again,” she says, adding: “But we always strive to be very positive, create innovative textiles and pieces—whether it’s accessories,
it’s something that should make people feel happier.” clothing or prints, to always find new ways to create.”

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InVOGUE Trends

PRESS
Play

From playful minidresses to barely there skirts,
cruise 2022 was a declaration of liberation.

TWords MAYA MENON
rends are cyclical, but they are also deftly painted
pictures of a place in time. The Great Depression of
the ’30s saw a collective pining for escapism, and
silver screen stars delivered, decked in glamorous
fitted gowns.
The ’90s catapulted grunge in both body and
spirit; with Marc Jacobs’ collection for sportswear house Perry
Ellis making waves, and bedhead as a rite of passage. It was
impossible at the time to imagine the supercharged maximalism of
the noughties courtesy of the likes of Christopher Kane and Mary
Katrantzou. Yet, in the light of the 2008 recession, unabashed
colour—alongside default optimism—was exactly what followed.

Today, we emerge from a fashion fog of a different kind.
As the uncertainties of the pandemic stagnate, so have our
reservations. Our mid-COVID wardrobe was one of trepidation:
masks, loungewear and a looming fear of the unknown. Bodycon
sensibilities—spurred on by the Kardashians and Hadids—
quickly found themselves on the backburner. Liberation and
expression were replaced with a need to remain protected, isolated
and removed from harm’s way.

It is for this very reason that the cruise 2022 runways
proved to be an unassuming breath of fresh air. From the likes of
Chanel, Coach and Versace were a slow return to sexiness in the
form of rising hemlines. Virginie Viard’s drawing board at Chanel
sought inspiration from Jean Cocteau’s Testament of Orpheus
(1960), playing with a monochrome palette across items like tweed
jackets, fishnet leggings and macramé capes.

In between flowing gowns and tapered trousers were
playfully plumed skirts paired with T-shirts and chest-baring tank
tops. At Coach, Stuart Vevers continued this vein by introducing the
unexpected. Breaking up a selection of all-American sportswear
classics, from shearling coats to oversized boots, was a gradual
reintroduction of bare-legged ensembles—a black dress nipped in
at the waist, a spaghetti-strapped tiered top and a plaid number—
exciting and weather-defiant. And at Versace, an expected helping
of allure in all-black, from leather A-line dresses to mini cropped
cardigans to thigh-high slits and barely-there coordinates: sleek,
bold and a celebration of an impending return to life.

As we gear up for nights out and the warmth of skin-to-skin
hugs and chatter, it is perhaps a reaffirmation that the clothes that
have arisen from the season of COVID-19 will be yet another relic
in a time capsule. But in the same vein, so will the pieces that come
after: boundless, unapologetic and hungry for a new normal.

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Rising hemlines
dominated the cruise
2022 runways as seen
at (from left to bottom
right) Versace, Coach
and Chanel.

THIS PAGE
Stars like Rihanna
and Dua Lipa
followed suit in bright,
bold numbers.

GETTY IMAGES; COURTESY OF CHANEL, COACH AND VERSACE

InVOGUE Accessories

HEATand BEND
From Guccio Gucci’s patented method to Princess Diana’s bamboo handle tote,
Tbamboo has helped to define Gucci’s century of elegance and irreverence.
Words WEIQI YAP
here’s something immortal about Gucci’s The house’s history with bamboo shares a similar
It bags. Each marks a different moment resonance. In 1947, Gucci introduced bamboo handles as a solution
in fashion history—from the Jackie to the to leather shortages after the war. Fashion houses at the time were
Diana, every design has secured its place in struggling to stay afloat amid severe fabric restrictions, but the
the bag hall of fame. The latter, in particular, Italian house found a way.
was popularised by Princess Diana when
she toted it in her now-iconic gym get-up. Bamboo proved to be a prescient choice—it was readily
You know the one: sweatshirt, biker shorts imported from Japan and turned out to be extremely durable. Eight
decades on, the handles continue to be expertly curved under the

and yes, a Gucci bamboo bag. Today, the heat of a flame, a process conceived by Florentine artisans.

ageless image from 1996 reads like a mood This method of heating and bending bamboo has since

board of 2021 style. Recently reissued as the Gucci Diana, it’s clear been patented by Gucci, making each handle—and each bag—

that the bag’s unexpected material still holds its appeal. unique. The handles are then lacquered and toasted, and arguably

This immortality seems to be embedded in Gucci’s DNA. remain the most storied part of any Gucci bamboo bag.

This year marks the brand’s 100th anniversary and reinvention Meanwhile, Hollywood’s infatuation with Gucci can be

continues to sit at its heart. “It’s Gucci’s birthday,” says creative traced back to 1950s Italian cinema, where Ingrid Bergman carries

director Alessandro Michele in a behind-the-scenes-reel of Gucci’s a version of the bamboo bag in Viaggio in Italia (1953). The likes

centenary film, Aria. “It pretends to be old, but it’s like a baby of screen legends Elizabeth Taylor, Bette Davis and Katharine

every year.” Hepburn were also spotted as visitors to Gucci’s Florence shop—

the home of Gucci’s bamboo-bending technique.

ROOTED IN HISTORY

Indeed, no other brand has entered the cultural lexicon quite like UPDATED CLASSIC

the Italian luxury house. Over the last century, the word ‘Gucci’ More recently, the Gucci Diana was reintroduced in three sizes

has been mentioned in over 22,000 songs. From Lil Pump’s ‘Gucci and seven colourways, accompanied with neon leather bands

Gang’ to Bhad Bhabie’s ‘Gucci Flip Flops’ (featuring Lil Yachty), bound around its bamboo handles. In celebration of Gucci’s 100th

Gucci’s centenary collection this season is a self-aware nod to its anniversary, the Diana received an update as part of a centenary

influence on pop culture. capsule collection—one that leans fully into Gucci’s presence in

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“True to the
Gucci cinematic
universe, the
bamboo handle
bags are available
in a myriad of
colourways.”

From Princess Diana
to Harry Styles, Gucci’s
bamboo bags have
stood the test of time.

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“For the maximalists,
Gucci’s checkered
motifs are a nod to
the uniforms of
equestrian jockeys.”

40

InVOGUE Accessories

The bamboo bag
entered a new era in
2021 with a slew of
iterations that included
the recently-updated
Gucci Diana and a
black-on-black top
handle bag.

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF GUCCI rap music. The special collection comprises pieces emblazoned He ‘hacked’ the early looks of Demna Gvasalia’s Balenciaga
with the words, ‘Music is mine, Gucci seats reclined’, and the Diana (with Gvasalia’s permission), plastering signature Demna shapes
is one of several in the capsule that pay homage to hip-hop duo Eric with unabashed logo mania. Even Balenciaga’s City bag was
B & Rakim’s 1988 track, ‘The R’. ‘Gucci-fied’, treading the precarious ground between appropriation
and authenticity. The disclaimer was loud and clear—this was
Over on the runway, the bamboo bag took on a range of not a collaboration, but a “hacking lab made of incursions and
styles. Unlike Princess Diana’s slouchier, roomier favourite, the metamorphoses”, according to Michele’s show notes.
ones in Aria are decidedly more structured. Hung off harnesses or
as mini appendages to leather corsets, bamboo elements appear as How does one begin to address the legacy of a 100-year-old
the twist-locks on tiny bags or as quintessential handles. brand? For Michele, this meant going back to its origins—Guccio
Gucci’s humble beginnings as a lift boy in London’s Savoy hotel,
True to the Gucci cinematic universe, the bamboo handle now expressed as embellished helmets that read ‘Savoy Club’. At
bags are available in a myriad of colourways taken directly from times, Aria felt like an exercise in remixing what Gucci has looked
Michele’s expansive yet devastatingly specific palette. For the like in the past century.
maximalists at heart, the checkered motifs are a nod to the uniforms
of equestrian jockeys and horse-racing tracks. For the purists, the As the lines between luxury and street continue to blur,
woody handles are perfectly complemented with lustrous shades Gucci seems less interested in upholding that boundary and more
of marigold, taffy pink and of course, black. interested in embracing the pockets of culture it has managed to
reach over the last 100 years. There’s a self-awareness to Michele’s
Don’t forget the straps, too. The lifeblood of any heritage helm—just look at 2018’s collaboration with former knock-off artist
brand is found in its ability to translate and transmute house codes. yet long-time Gucci aficionado, Dapper Dan.
Gucci’s red and green Web stripes have long breathed a sportiness
in what has otherwise been an era of decadence for the house. The tides are turning at Gucci, but history and tradition
As a sidekick to the bamboo handles, most iterations in the Aria remain a sanctum of references for Michele. Apart from the brand-
collection come with convertible and detachable Web straps— hacking at work, Aria’s calls to Gucci’s past were found not only in
allowing you to wear the purse on your shoulder or as a top handle. the reimagined bamboo bags, but also in the form of his predecessor
Tom Ford’s red velvet suit.
TURNING THE TIDE
Much like the recognisable horsebit found on Gucci loafers and The overpowering retro fever that has long defined
accessories, the bamboo elements on Gucci bags root the label Michele’s tenure at Gucci seems to be making way for something
firmly in history—even if Michele has set an intention to shift more irreverent; more unpredictable. And why wouldn’t it? There’s
away from his brand of retro nostalgia. Just this season, he pulled much to be immortalised for a brand as culturally adhesive as Gucci.
what was perhaps the ballsiest move in recent fashion history. With 100 years behind—or in front of—him, it’s clear Michele has
one eye on the past and the other on the future.

41

The EDIT

Elevating the everyday ordinary into something extraordinary.

Photography CHONG NG Styling JASMINE ASHVINKUMAR

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InVOGUE Accessories

THIS PAGE
Loewe shearling
slipper, $1,200

FACING PAGE
Cartier small Juste un
Clou necklace in pink
gold and diamonds,
$21,400

43

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InVOGUE Accessories

THIS PAGE
Alexander McQueen
Curve bag, $2,195

FACING PAGE
Balenciaga shopper
bag, $1,750

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InVOGUE Accessories

46

THIS PAGE
Fendi nano First
charm, $1,750
FACING PAGE
Hermès Chaine
d’Ancre punk earring
in rose gold, price
upon request

47

InVOGUE Style “Heels are a symbol
of resistance in
Alok Menon wears the fight for creative
Terrence Zhou dress; self-expression.”
Pleaser boots;
gloves and tights, ALOK MENON, artist
stylist’s own

Hair, Takuya Yamaguchi/
The Wall Group; make-up,
Mitch Yoshida; tailor, Dee
Serret; photographer’s
assistants, Brian Hexter
and Ramon Martinez;
stylist’s assistant, Lui Russi;
location, Café Studio NYC

TENfeet TALL

Meet Alok Menon, Erwinshah Hassan and
Shaobo Han, the fashion disruptors across New York
and Singapore who are degendering heels.

Photography ALVIN KEAN WONG, MITCHELL PHUN Shaobo Han wears
Fashion ALI CLAIRE MARINO, JASMINE ASHVINKUMAR Luar pants and
Words MAYA MENON Syro boots

48

Erwinshah Hassan
wears Prada jacket
and pants; Manolo
Blahnik crystal
embellished sandals;
jewellery, his own;
tights, stylist’s own

Hair and make-up, Lydia
Thong/Makeup Entourage.

Shaobo Han wears
Terrence Zhou dress;
Syro boots; gloves,
stylist’s own

What is power? To some, it’s in unapologetically
coming into their own. To others, it’s a mosaic
pieced together by experiences. And to many,
it is a force that brews inwardly, anchored by
facets of self-expression. High heels have long been a part of this
equation regardless of gender, tracing back to 10th-century Persia
or modern-day Iran. The Age of Enlightenment would go on to
change things—adornment of any kind was deemed feminine;
foolish and unnecessary.

Today, high heels are being reclaimed by a new generation
of changemakers across the world who are breaking the barriers of
gendered fashion; not by any grand gesture, but by weaving them
into everyday life. To Alok Menon and Shaobo Han, who live in New
York City, it is part of their journey of self-acceptance and fostering
visibility. And to Erwinshah Hassan in Singapore, it is about the
greatest power of them all; honesty to no one but one’s self.

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