Dubai & Abu Dhabi 7 ( PDFDrive )

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Dubai

& Abu Dhabi

PDF ebook

Edition 7th Edition
Release Date Sep 2012
Pages 224

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4 How to Use This Book

easy-to-use These symbols help you to quickly
sections identify listings in the text and on the
maps:
Plan Your Trip
1 SIGHTS
Your planning tool kit – Photos, lists and 5 EATING
suggestions to help you put together your 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
3 ENTERTAINMENT
perfect trip. 7 SHOPPING
2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES
Explore
Reviews are ordered by author preference
Your complete city guide – to help you get the most out of the city.
Neighbourhood highlights, in-depth reviews
These symbols give you the vital
and local tips. information for each listing:

Understand S Sustainable s Swimming Pool
Option E English-
Get more from your trip – Learn about % Telephone Language Menu
the big picture, so you can make sense of Number c Family-Friendly
h Opening Hours # Pet-Friendly
the city. p Parking g Bus
n Nonsmoking f Ferry
Survival Guide a Air-Conditioning m Metro
i Internet Access b Subway
Your at-a-glance reference – Vital W Wi-Fi Access j Tram
practical information to help you have a v Vegetarian d Train
Selection
smooth trip.

plus

full-colour
map section

206 206 207 207

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9 781742 200224

Dubai

& Abu Dhabi

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go
and the hardest part is over.

So go!”

Tony Wheeler, cofounder – Lonely planet

This edition written and researched by

Josephine Quintero

Contents

PPllaannYYoouurrTTrriipp page 1 4

Welcome to Dubai Top Itineraries ����������������16 Eating ��������������������������� 27
& Abu Dhabi ��������������������� 4 If You Like ����������������������� 18 Drinking & Nightlife ��� 31
Dubai & Abu Dhabi’s Month by Month ������������20 Entertainment �������������35
Top 10 ������������������������������� 6 With Kids ������������������������ 23 Shopping ���������������������� 37
What’s New �������������������� 13 For Free �������������������������� 25 Sports & Activities ���� 42
Need to Know �����������������14

Explore Dubai & Abu Dhabi 46

Neighbourhoods at a Sheikh Zayed Road Abu Dhabi ��������������������� 117
Glance ������������������������� 48 & Around ������������������������ 77
Deira �������������������������������50 Jumeirah �������������������������91 Day Trips from
New Dubai �������������������� 104 Dubai ��������������������������124
Bur Dubai �����������������������63
Sleeping ���������������������134

Understand Dubai & Abu Dhabi 147

Dubai & Abu Dhabi Politics & Economy ����� 155 The Environment ��������� 162
Today ���������������������������� 148 Identity & Lifestyle ������ 159 Architecture &
History �������������������������� 150 the Arts ������������������������ 166

Survival Guide 171

Transport ����������������������172 Language ��������������������� 187
Directory A–Z ���������������177 Index ����������������������������� 196

Dubai Maps 203

John Borthwick / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Richard I’Anson / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

(left) Burj al-Arab Christian Aslund / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©
interior (p94)

(above) Dubai
Aquarium at Dubai
Mall (p79)

(right) Camel and
keeper

New Jumeirah Bur Deira
Dubai p91 Dubai p50
p104 p63
Sheikh Zayed Road
& Around
p77

Welcome to
Dubai & Abu Dhabi

Passengers arriving by air are transfixed
by the view: futuristic skyscrapers

flanked by a glittering coastline and
surrounded by endless desert.

Embracing the Extraordinary Feeding Body & Soul

It’s little wonder so many entrepreneurial Dubai has a glut of excellent restaurants.
designers and architects love Dubai. Be prepared to be spoiled rotten with cui-
Together with a tax-free escape from sine that ranges from East to West, from
throttling budgets, stringent building celebrity-chef-driven to Asian street-style.
regulations and cookie-cutter specs, this This is a foodie’s fantasy destination, where
place likes to show off. Tallest building in atmosphere, surroundings and service are
the world? Tick. Artificial island shaped like an accepted part of the culinary combo.
a palm? Tick. So-called seven-star hotel? Continue the self-pampering at one of
Tick. Largest global shopping mall? Tick… Dubai’s spas, with treatments and massages
And indoor snow slopes to boot? Tick. designed to soothe away stress and revi-
talise the senses. Or flop on a white sandy
While it’s true that recent economic woes beach, take a dhow dinner cruise or watch
have led to some major projects hitting the the sunset over rippling red-gold sand in
dust or being scaled down, such as Dubai- the desert, sharing a vision that was once
land, others are being gradually resumed. deeply rooted in Dubai’s Bedouin society.
More superlative-worthy projects to come?
Tick. Dubai, a shrinking violet? Never! Beyond the City

Let’s Shop! Travel beyond Dubai to experience another
world altogether as a skyscraper skyline is
Before the 1970s, the only time you could replaced by a more traditional desertscape.
shift your credit card into overdrive in Dubai
was at the Gold Souq. Serious fashion choice Abu Dhabi is a fascinating and easily
required jetting off to London or New York. accessible destination to the south. This
Today the city vies with both metropolises as is the emirate that continues to surprise,
a shopping destination, as well as providing quietly vying with Dubai with its consider-
much more than a mere retail experience. able investment in culture, innovation and
While temperatures spiral outside, the malls architecture. It is also home to the Sheikh
morph into places to shop, play, eat, drink Zayed bin Sultan al-Nahyan Mosque, a
(coffee) and socialise. If you want a glimpse magnificent must-see sight.
of a more traditional culture, there are still
souqs, particularly in Deira and Bur Dubai.

Jean-Pierre Lescourret / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Why I Love Dubai

By Josephine Quintero, Author

I lived in Kuwait for seven years and thought I was pretty savvy about the Arab way of life.
How wrong I was. Dubai is a real one-off and full of surprises. There is nothing mundane or
matter-of-fact about this place; it is all about drama and extremes – from the architecture
to the weather to the food… Ah, the food! I also love the fact that there is a burgeoning,
innovative art scene here and in Abu Dhabi. Discovering some fabulous galleries in the
dusty Al-Quoz district was a real high point for me – along with travelling to the top of the
Burj Khalifa, that is!

For more about our author, see p224.

Above: Dubai skyline from Jumeirah coast

6 Glenn Beanland / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Dubai & Abu Dhabi’s

Top 10

7

Dubai Museum (p65) Dubai Souqs (p52)

1 Appropriately housed in one of the 2 Noisy, chaotic and colourful, Dubai’s
city’s oldest buildings, this museum souqs are an enticing reminder that
provides a well-laid-out and comprehen- you are, indeed, in a foreign country –
sive history of Dubai. Learn exactly how something you might forget when you’re
and why, in just a third of a century, this poolside at your five-star hotel. The small
extraordinary destination has risen from Spice Souq is a heady introduction to Mid-
being a simple desert settlement to one of dle Eastern exotic herbs and spices, while
the most progressive and modern cities Bur Dubai’s Textile Souq (p66) is another
in the Middle East. Many exhibits take assault on the senses with its vividly pat-
the form of lifelike dioramas, while a terned fabrics. Don’t miss nearby Hindi
separate archaeological exhibition covers Lane (p65), a tiny alleyway flanked by
the ancient history of the region, with a stalls selling brilliantly coloured religious
display of exhibits discovered in several decorations, or the Deira Gold Souq,
excavated tombs. which has a dazzling display of jewellery
at remarkably low prices. Deira Gold Souq
1 Bur Dubai
1 Deira, Bur Dubai

Michael Coyne / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Richard Nebesky / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © John Elk III / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © architect tom wright

8 Plan your Trip Dubai & Abu Dhabi’s Top 10

9

Plan your Trip Dubai & Abu Dhabi’s Top 10

Richard I’Anson / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Bastakia Dubai Creek (p68) Burj al-Arab (p94)
Quarter (p65)
4 Dubai’s otherworldly 5 This landmark hotel,
3 Wandering around the megaprojects got you with its dramatic
maze of narrow lanes craving a dose of reality? design that mimics the
in the Bastakia Quarter Walk alongside the Creek sail of a ship, floats on its
provides a tangible sense and it’s easy to imagine own man-made island
of historic Arabian archi- life in Dubai half a century and has become the iconic
tecture and culture. The ago. The wooden dhows, symbol of Dubai’s boom
streets are flanked by low- bustling souqs, stately years. If you’re not in the
lying traditional buildings, wind towers and grace- ultra-moneyed league that
complete with wind tow- ful mosques have barely can afford to stay here, you
ers, arabesque windows changed over the decades. can still indulge in a little
and decorative gypsum Wander the streets sur- make-believe by opting
screens. Punctuated by the rounding the Creek in for one of the cocktail or
occasional splash of daz- Bur Dubai and Deira to afternoon-tea packages,
zling bougainvillea, this experience a vibrant multi­ or by splashing out on a
evocative area is home to cultural region that has romantic dinner in the
a couple of the city’s most become home to hundreds underwater restaurant.
characterful guesthouses, of thousands of people The interior is all about
as well as cafes, galler- from across the globe. The impact, drama and un-
ies and museums. If you most evocative route to adulterated bling, with
want to learn more about cross the Creek is by hop- dancing fountains, gold fit-
local history, join one of ping on one of the tradi- tings, giant aquariums and
the informative organised tional abras (water taxis). private whirlpool baths
walking tours. your butler can fill with
1 Deira, Bur Dubai champagne (or caviar) – if
1 Bur Dubai you so wish.

1 Jumeirah

10

Art Galleries (p80) Nightlife (p31)

6 Dubai and Abu Dhabi are rapidly 7 Dubai is home to some of the most
evolving as exciting centres for art glamorous, see-and-be-seen night-
in the Middle East. In Dubai, the annual clubs in the world. Some of the best are
Art Dubai art fair has been instrumental in beachside Jumeirah, where you can
in reviving the city’s art culture. Ranging dance by the sea under the stars, while
from the dusty industrial surroundings several of the city’s most sophisticated
of Al-Quoz to the chic sophistication of bars top soaring buildings, offering dizzy
the city’s financial centre and the boho- skyscape views to go with those head-
chic Bastakia Quarter, the contemporary spinning cocktails. If you prefer your
art scene here is buzzing. It’s a similar ale on tap accompanied by big-screen
picture in Abu Dhabi with its dedicated sports or karaoke, there are plenty of
cultural ‘island’, Saadiyat, which includes Brit-geared pubs, while live-music lovers
branches of leading international art mu- may get lucky if their trip coincides with
seums the Louvre and the Guggenheim. a star billing on the concert circuit in
either Dubai or Abu Dhabi. Buddha Bar (p111)
Shishas by artist Mounir Fatmi at Art Dubai 2012 (p20)
ALI HAIDER/epa/corbis ©

Plan your Trip Dubai & Abu Dhabi’s Top 10
1 Sheikh Zayed Road & Around 6 Drinking & Nightlife

Giovanni Simeone/SIME/4Corners © 11Plan your Trip Dubai & Abu Dhabi’s Top 10

John Elk III / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Shopping Malls (p37)

8 The first rule is to realise
that, as far as shopping
malls are concerned, there
are no rules in Dubai. Just
arrive without preconceived
ideas and be prepared for
sights and experiences that
go way beyond mere retail
therapy. In Dubai, shopping
malls represent an integral
part of the culture and life-
style; they are places not just
for conspicuous consumption
but for extravagant enter-
tainment and world-class
dining, Disney-style theme
parks and extraordinary
architecture. In summer,
malls are where everyone
retreats to escape the heat,
socialise, clinch deals and
puff on sheesha pipes. Ski Dubai

at Mall of the Emirates (p113)

7 Shopping

Plan your Trip Dubai & Abu Dhabi’s Top 1012 Christine Osborne / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Desert Escapes (p126) Philip Game / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

9 Staying in Dubai, it can be easy to for-
get that the region’s most famous topo-
graphical feature has nothing to do with
architectural wizardry. Even if you didn’t
plan on getting sand between your toes, a
trip to the desert is highly recommended
and there is a wide range of excursions on
offer that provide a rare opportunity to
experience everything from sandboarding
to sleeping under the stars. Alternatively,
consider staying at one of the desert
resorts or renting a 4WD, which allows
you to appreciate the magnificent scenery
firsthand.

1 Day Trips from Dubai

Grand Mosque (p119)

10 Don’t miss Abu Dhabi’s stunning Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan al-Nahyan Mosque,
the third-largest mosque in the world. And, yes, it is massive, with more than
80 snowy-white marble domes held aloft by 1000 pillars with space for a soul-stirring
40,000 worshippers in its magnificent courtyard and main prayer hall (which also
holds the largest handwoven carpet in the world). Intricate inlaid designs of flowers
and leaves in marble and semiprecious stones delicately adorn the pillars; massive
chandeliers twinkle with thousands of dazzling crystals; and 24-carat gold adorn-
ments shimmer throughout.

1 Abu Dhabi

13

What’s New

Celebrity Dining Al Majaz Waterfront Project
Sharjah’s ambitious Al Majaz waterfront
It’s pretty hard to find anywhere on a par project includes sculpture gardens; walk-
with Dubai when it comes to the number ing, jogging and cycling paths; restaurants
of celebrity chefs bubbling away in the and cafes; and laser and water shows,
gourmet culinary cauldron. And although including a 100m-high dancing fountain.
one or two have departed (most notably (p126)
Gordon Ramsay), new names include
everyone’s kitchen-sink darling Jamie Armani Hotel
Oliver, while fellow UK-chef Gary Rhodes The iconic Burj Khalifa is a fitting home
and Mexican Richard Sandoval both have for the world’s first hotel that has been
second restaurants (and concepts). James exclusively designed and developed by
Martin, another Brit-based culinary star, is Giorgio Armani. It’s as cutting edge and
also apparently considering neighbouring contemporary as you would expect from
Abu Dhabi as his United Arab Emirates this Italian style guru. (p140)
(UAE) launch pad.

Jumeirah Golf Estates Dubai Sports Complex
This impressive new golf course is home The Dh1.1 billion Dubai Sports Complex
of the Dubai World Championship, with opened in late 2010 as a multipurpose
courses named after different environ- sports venue with a capacity of 15,000
mental themes. By 2011 the Earth and Fire spectators. Facilities include an indoor
courses were completed with Water and aquatic centre, which hosted the FINA
Wind still at the planning stage. (p44) World Swimming Championships in
December 2010.
Sleep Pods at Airport
In October 2011 Dubai International Air- One&Only The Palm
port became the first airport in the Middle Arrive by ferry at this 2011 One&Only
East to offer snooze cubes (modular sleep hotel newbie with its signature Moorish-
pods) for weary travellers. (p172) cum-Andalucían architecture and exqui-
site landscaping and hotel facilities.
(www.oneandonlyresorts.com; p143)

International Art Museums The Ivy
Although there have been delays, Abu Arguably London’s most revered dining
Dhabi’s highly impressive cultural project, institution, the Ivy opened in the suitably
Saadiyat Island, is definitely going ahead. iconic Jumeirah Emirates Towers in late
When completed, this man-made island 2011. (p84)
will be home to a branch of both the
Louvre and the Guggenheim art museums. For more recommendations and
Check www.saadiyat.ae for an update. reviews, see lonelyplanet.com/
(p119) dubai

14

Need to Know

Currency Your Daily Budget Advance Planning

United Arab Emirates (UAE) Budget less than Three months before Double-
dirhams (Dh) Dh600 check visa regulations as these
can alter without prior warning.
Languages ¨¨Budget hotel room: Check date of Ramadan, which
Dh300–400 changes annually.
Arabic, English ¨¨Excellent supermarkets for One month before Reserve a
self-caterers table at a top restaurant. Check
Visas ¨¨Cheap museum entrance concert-venue websites for
fees, free public beaches what’s on during your stay.
Citizens of 34 developed One week before Check
countries get free 30-day visas Midrange Dh600– average daytime temperature.
on arrival in the UAE. 1200
Useful Websites
Money ¨¨Midrange double room:
Dh500 ¨¨Lonely Planet (www
ATMs are widely available. Credit ¨¨Two-course meal in good .lonelyplanet.com/dubai)
cards are accepted in most midrange restaurant: Destination information, hotel
hotels, restaurants and shops. Dh125–200, plus wine bookings, traveller forum and
¨¨Top attractions and sights: more.
Mobile Phones average Dh100 ¨¨Dubai Tourism (www
.dubaitourism.ae) Official
You can buy a pay-as-you-go Top End over Dh1200 tourism site of Dubai
mobile with credit for as little as Government, which provides
Dh125. Alternatively, local SIM ¨¨Four-star hotel room: updated advice on visitor visas.
cards are widely available. from Dh1000 ¨¨Dubai Community (www
¨¨Fine dining for lunch and .dubailime.com) Classifieds,
Time dinner: from Dh800 culture, events and features.
¨¨Bar tab for wine and beer: ¨¨Daily English Language
Dubai is four hours ahead of GMT. from Dh300 News (www.gulfnews
The time does not change during .com) Regional, local and
the summer. international news, plus sports
and classifieds.
Tourist Information ¨¨Dubai Explorer (www
.liveworkexplore.com/dubai)
The Department of Tourism Geared towards residents with
& Commerce Marketing lots of practical info.
(DTCM; www.dubaitourism.ae)
operates 24-hour information
kiosks in the Terminal 1 and 3
arrivals areas of Dubai Interna-
tional Airport.

15

When to Go

The best times are °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm

March to April and 40/104 20/500

October to November 30/86 16/400

when temperatures 20/68 12/300 Plan your Trip Need to Know
are in the low 30°Cs. 10/50 8/200
Avoid July to August

when temperatures 0/32 4/100

average around 43°C -10/14 0
with 95% humidity.
JF MAM J J A S OND

Arriving in Dubai Getting Around Sleeping

Dubai International Airport Before you hop aboard a Dubai is a luxury travel
The metro, buses and taxis to local bus or the metro, you destination with essentially
central Dubai are all convenient must purchase a recharge- two types of hotel: the city
modes of transport to/from the able Nol card from ticket hotel and the beach resort.
airport. If you are staying at a offices in any metro and Prices are at their lowest
four- or five-star hotel, check some bus stations, plus in the sweltering summer
whether an airport transfer is ticket vending machines. months of July and August.
available. ¨¨Metro There are two metro At other times of the year it
Metro The Red Line stops at lines. The Red Line runs from is essential to reserve ahead
Terminals 1 and 3 and is the near Dubai International of time. Most hotels offer
most efficient way to get across Airport to Jebel Ali. The considerable deductions
town by public transport. Green Line links the Dubai if you book online. Hotel
Bus Several public buses serve Airport Free Zone with Dubai apartments offer more
the airport, including the 401 Healthcare City. economical accommoda-
(to Al-Sabkha bus station) and tion, while there’s a
bus 402 (to Al-Ghubaiba bus ¨¨Bus There is a network of growing number of B&Bs.
station). 79 bus routes. Buses can be
Taxi A taxi costs between Dh45 overcrowded and slow. Useful Websites
and Dh90 depending on your
destination. ¨¨Boat Abras (traditional ¨¨Dubai Hotels (www
wooden boats) cross the Creek. .dubaihotelsltd.com) Wide
There are water buses, which range of options, mainly in
are also good for sightseeing. top-end category.
¨¨Direct Rooms (www
For much more on For much more on .directrooms.com) Competitive
arrival see p172. getting around, site for hotel booking with
see p173. some good deals.
¨¨Late Rooms (www
Ramadan .laterooms.com) Especially
good for last-minute offers.
Muslims are required to fast during Ramadan and
everyone, regardless of religion, is expected to observe For much more on
the fast when in public. That means no eating, drink- sleeping, see p134.
ing or smoking during daylight hours. Government
offices cut hours, bars and pubs are closed until 7pm
each night, live music is prohibited and dance clubs are
closed throughout the month.

Unless you are particularly interested in Islam, you
may want to avoid visiting during this holiday, which
shifts by a few days each year.

16

Top Itineraries

Day One Day Two

Jumeirah (p91) Bur Dubai (p63)

M Cruise into your day with an early M Enjoy breakfast in the tranquil walled
morning stroll on the sand at the garden of the Basta Art Cafe. Nip
Jumeirah Open Beach. Next, aim for a next door to check out the latest exhibition at
perfect balance of spirituality and architec- the Majlis Gallery and wander around the
ture at the Jumeirah Mosque before feed- historic Bastakia Quarter, dipping in and
ing the body with some healthy soul food at out of the various museums. Enjoy the short
the Lime Tree Cafe. Continue in culture stroll to the breezy Bur Dubai Souq, via
mode by enjoying fine artwork at the Pro the atmospheric Hindi Lane. Check out the
Art Gallery, then indulge with a shopping textiles, pick up a pashmina (or two) and cool
spree at S*uce boutique. down with a fresh mango juice before head-
ing for a Creekside location for a late lunch.
Lunch Taxi to Ravi (p96) for a pack-in-
the-flavours Pakistani curry. Lunch Enjoy Middle Eastern fare at
Bait Al Wakeel (p69).
Sheikh Zayed Road & Around (p77)
Bur Dubai (p63)
R It’s the hottest part of the day so time
to retreat indoors. Hop in a cab to the R Backtrack to the Dubai Museum
Dubai Mall and visit the watery wonder- where you can spend a good hour
land of the Aquarium before perusing the boning up on the history and culture. Then
shops. Wind up the afternoon by grabbing a wind your way through the souq to the
restaurant pew at Souq al-Bahar overlook- Shindagha Heritage Area, which has been
ing the magical dancing fountains with their restored with a paved walkway and a couple
soaring Burj Khalifa backdrop. of excellent museums housed in sumptuous
historical buildings. Stay until sunset, when
Dinner Tuck into top Brit-inspired nosh you can revive yourself with a coffee over-
at the Rivington Grill (p83). looking the passing parade of boats.

Sheikh Zayed Road & Around (p77) Dinner Splash out with a dinner cruise
on the Bateaux Dubai (p69).
N Check out the killer views and
cocktails at Neos, the high-octane Bur Dubai (p63)
bar at the hotel Address Downtown
Dubai. Or show off big-time as you belt N You’ll be so relaxed after wining and
out your top Susan Boyle number at Harry dining on the cruise, but if you have
Ghatto’s at Jumeirah Emirates Towers. the energy, enjoy a grand finale to your
evening by stopping by the super-chic Red
Lounge bar at the Raffles Dubai hotel, to
clink glasses overlooking stunning skyline
views. Follow that with a quick spin on the
dance floor next door at the oh-so-cool
People by Crystal nightclub.

17

Day Three Day Four Pl an your Trip To p It i n e r a r i e s

Deira (p50) Abu Dhabi (p117)

M Hop on one of the traditional M Make an early start and travel to
wooden abras (water taxis) to cross Abu Dhabi, a two-hour drive away.
the Creek and stock up on saffron at the Head straight for the magnificent Sheikh
Spice Souq. Crisscross your way back to Zayed bin Sultan al-Nahyan Mosque as
the Gold Souq, stopping off en route for it closes at noon (and all day Friday).
a fresh mango-and-orange juice at the You’ll need at least an hour of ogling time
Ashwaq Cafeteria. After gawping at all here. Wind up the morning at the Central
that glitz, wander around the Perfume Market.
Souq, sampling the musky traditional
attars (perfumes). Lunch Enjoy a Lebanese-inspired main
at Shakespeare & Co (p122).
Lunch Enjoy a meaty feast at the
Afghan Khorasan Kebab House (p56). Abu Dhabi (p117)

Deira (p50) R At the hottest time of the day, take
some time perusing the shops here,
R After all that banter and bustle, take before heading to the Emirates Palace
a break and spend the hottest hours for a gawp at all that gold and a frothy
of the day having a luxurious massage at cappuccino (sprinkled with gold leaf, of
Amara spa in the Park Hyatt hotel. Cross course). If time permits, take a stroll along
the road and stroll down to the colourful the waterfront Corniche flanked by pris-
quayside where wooden boats unload their tine white sandy beaches, before returning
wares. Head towards central Baniyas Sq, to Dubai.
popping in en route at Deira’s two historic
museums, the Heritage House and Al- Dinner Go Italiano with dinner at
Ahmadiya School. Then follow your rum- Hilton’s BiCE (p108) in New Dubai.
bling stomach and cab it to the Mövenpick
Hotel in Bur Dubai. New Dubai (p104)

Dinner Enjoy fine Indian dining and N Enjoy post-dinner drinks at the
entertainment at Chutneys (p70). fabled Buddha Bar in the Grosven-
or House hotel and then glide up the eleva-
Deira (p50) tor to the hotel’s 44th floor and the swanky
retro-check Bar 44, with its sweeping
N After a leisurely dinner, head to Chi panorama, plus live blues and jazz.
nightclub where you can sip stylish Consider some serious hip-swinging
cocktails under the stars at one of Dubai’s action at Nasimi Beach, the Atlantis
signature nightspots, then get hip-swaying hotel’s fabled nightspot a couple of fronds
to the stylish repertoire from a chilled line- away on the Palm Jumeirah.
up of international DJs.

18

If You Like…

Nightlife haunt with its giant Buddha, sexy Special Spa Time Crown your
lighting and chilled-out sounds. stay with a ‘Queen for a Day’
Barasti Dance with sand between (p111) luxurious treatment session at
your toes or chill out in the bar at Etoiles Abu Dhabi’s most luxuri- the Sensasia Urban Spa (p103) or
this spirited hotspot, a favourite ous hotel is home to the emirate’s head for Abu Dhabi’s glamorous
haunt for expat revellers. (p111) most sophisticated nightspot, Emirates Palace spa (p119).
Nasimi Beach A winning combo which attracts a super-chic and High Tea Reserve a top table for
of beachside glamour, big-name stylish clientele. (p123) tea accompanied by sumptuous
DJs, live performers and monthly cakes, a glass of bubbly and
full-moon parties. (p112) A Touch of Luxury heady views, 200m above sea
N’Dulge Circus acts, acrobatics, level. (p94)
the hottest tracks and a party Boating in Style Check out the Go for Gold At the Deira Gold
crowd. (p112). Creek with glass in hand from the Souq prices are fair, the quality
Buddha Bar Dress to impress at deck of a luxury dinner cruise. superb and the purchase a glit-
this see-and-be-seen fashionable (p69) tering investment. What are you
waiting for? (p52)

John Elk III / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Spice souq, Bur Dubai

19

Top Table Dine at one of the Culture For more top Dubai and Pl an your Trip If Yo u L i k e …
celebrity-chef restaurants in Abu Dhabi spots, see
Dubai or Abu Dhabi and let Gate Village Smock-and-beret ¨¨Eating (p27)
your tastebuds convince you types will love nosing around the ¨¨Drinking & Nightlife (p31)
that every soupçon of fame is exciting contemporary galleries ¨¨Entertainment (p35)
justified. at this Financial District art hub. ¨¨Shopping (p37)
(p82) ¨¨Sports & Activities (p42)
Shopping Saadiyat Island Four museums
Extremes and a performing arts centre are good facilities, including
set to open in Abu Dhabi in 2013, showers, and an enticing white
Dubai Mall The largest mall in when the Louvre Abu Dhabi will sandy beach. (p94)
the world packs a serious retail set the painterly pace with a Jumeirah Open Beach Good
punch, and provides plenty of collection originating from the facilities and plenty of towel
family-geared entertainment. Louvre in Paris. (p119) space on the sand at this long
(p88) Al-Quoz A cutting-edge area for strip lined with a promenade,
Deira Souqs The antithesis of predominantly Middle Eastern next to the Dubai Marine Beach
the modern mall, selling eve- contemporary art, sculpture and Resort & Spa. (p94)
rything from dried lemons and installations. (p80) Corniche, Abu Dhabi The beach
saffron to Kashmiri bed throws Annual Festivals Check out the flanking the Corniche here is
and camel-skin slippers. (p52) annual cycle of film, theatre and glorious with plenty of family-
Ibn Battuta Mall Another one- music festivals in Dubai and its friendly facilities, pristine white
off, this themed shopping mall is neighbours, as well as big-name sand and convenient cafes and
stunningly decorated in country concerts, orchestras and dance restaurants nearby. (p117)
and regional styles, such as performances.
Andalucían, Indian and classic Museum Sharjah’s Museum of Bargains
Persian. (p113) Islamic Civilisation is dedicated
Wafi Mall This mall has some to all aspects of Islam and is Shopping Festival January is
retail gems in a wonderful set- extraordinarily detailed and the time for real bargains with
ting with some fabulous stained well-laid-out. (p125) many big stores slashing their
glass and extraordinary design prices by up to 75%. (p20)
features. (p72) Beaches Deira & Bur Dubai Explore the
Central Market A delightful souqs and surrounding streets
small mall on the site of the Kite Beach This is a glorious in Bur Dubai and Deira for some
original souq in Abu Dhabi, with unspoiled stretch of sand, north real one-off bargains. (p58 and
lots of warm wood and a great of the Burj al-Arab; there are no p72)
selection of shops. (p123) facilities, so pack a picnic. (p94) Sharjah Everything in Sharjah
Souq Madinat Jumeirah OK, Jumeirah Beach Park Although is cheaper than in its glitzy
it is a bit ‘Disneyland does the it costs a few dirhams, this neighbour. Check out the
Arabian souq’, but the look beach has superb family-geared Central Souq here, particularly
is sumptuous and the shops facilities, including playgrounds, its jewellery stores. (p127)
enticing with plenty of unusual a proper park (fronting the sand) Bastakia Quarter For scintil-
souvenir scope, plus refuelling and ice creams for sale. (p94) lating gifts, jewellery, crafts and
spots. (p102) Jumeirah Beach Residence souvenirs check out the gift
Mall of the Emirates Another Open Beach A great place just shops at the Majlis Gallery, the
mall with a dizzying number of off The Walk at JBR, with a long XVA Hotel and the Basta Art
shops, as well as those famous stretch of sand and plenty of Cafe. (p65)
Alpine-inspired ski slopes and restaurants nearby. (p94)
some brilliant dining. (p112) Umm Suqeim Beach Overlook-
ing the iconic Burj al-Arab, this is
the beach where you shouldn’t
forget your camera. There are

20

Month by Month

TOP EVENTS fastest courses in the world, z Emirates Airline
this full marathon attracts
Dubai Shopping Festival, pounding participation International Festival
January–February from all over the world. of Literature
(www.dubaimarathon.org) A literary event that show-
Dubai International cases authors and poets
Jazz Festival, February February from the Middle East, as
Art Dubai, March well as international best­
WOMAD, April Another warm and winning selling writers such as
month, with sun-kissed Wilbur Smith and Margaret
Dubai International Film weather and plenty going Atwood. (www.eaifl.com)
Festival, December on, including many outdoor
events. Pack a light jacket March
January or pashmina for those al
fresco evenings. The weather might be
A blissful month here heating up a fraction,
when much of the 3 Dubai but it is still near perfect
world is suffering post- in this action-packed
holiday doldrums and International Jazz month, with warm seas for
icy conditions. Expect Festival swimming and plenty of
daytime temperatures This increasingly popular space on the sand.
averaging a pleasant 25°C, event has had locals foot-
though nights can be cool. tapping since 2003. Per- z Art Dubai
formances take place over
7 Dubai Shopping nine days in the outdoor Art is becoming big busi-
amphitheatre at Dubai ness in the Gulf and the
Festival Media City and past acts growing number of gal-
Held from mid-January to include such musical heavy- leries confirms the trend.
mid-February, this shop- weights as Kool & the Gang Madinat Jumeirah provides
ping festival draws hordes and Alison Moyet. (www a glamorous setting for
of bargain-hunting tourists .dubaijazzfest.com) artists, dealers and gallery
from around the world. owners to canvas their art.
There are huge discounts 2 Dubai Tennis (www.artdubai.ae)
in the souqs and malls,
and the city is abuzz with Championships 3 Al-Ain Classics
activities, ranging from Attracting the big serves
live concerts to fireworks. of the world’s top pros, the Festival
(www.mydsf.com) men’s and women’s events International top talent –
are a firm fixture on the from cellist Yo-Yo Ma to
2 Dubai Marathon international tennis tours. Prague’s Bennewitz
(www.dubaitennis Quart­et – perform classical
With mild January weather championships.com) music concerts in the evoca-
and one of the flattest and tive setting of the restored

3 WOMAD 21

Al-Jahili Fort in Al-Ain, a Always a global winner, October Plan your Trip Month by Month
90-minute drive south of this three-day festival, held
Dubai. (www.aacf.ae) in Al-Ain’s Al-Jahili Fort Temperatures have
and the Corniche in Abu started to cool
z Dubai Dhabi, has attracted global considerably, although
giants such as Jamaica’s you can still expect some
International Boat Jimmy Cliff in 2011. (www toasty warm days early
Show .womadabudhabi.ae) in the month. Nights
Don your deck shoes and are perfect for dining al
head for the International May fresco in shirtsleeves or
Marine Club to see some for overnight desert trips.
fabulous boats go under the Temperatures are inching
hammer; buyers come from up the barometer and can 7 GITEX
all over the yachting world. nudge 35°C-plus, so air-
(www.boatshowdubai.com) conditioned malls provide Snap up some gadget bar-
welcome relief. There are gains at this international
2 Dubai World Cup one or two crowd-pulling consumer electronics fair
events this month. held over five days at the
Dubai’s racing season cul- Dubai International Con-
minates in the world’s rich- 2 Al Gaffal vention and Exhibition
est horse race but, with no Centre. (www.gitex.com)
betting allowed, attention Traditional Dhow
turns to the loony fashion- Race 2 Swim the Burj
free-for-all of the attendees. This traditional dhow race,
(www.dubaiworldcup.com) between the small unin- Benefiting the not-for-profit
habited island of Sir Bu organisation Médecins
April Na’air and Dubai Marina, Sans Frontières (Doctors
has a winner’s purse of Without Borders), this char-
It’s still warm rather Dh500,000. Held on the ity event draws hundreds of
than blistering but you’ll last Saturday of the month, swimmers to complete the
see more tourists as it it’s a photographer’s favour- 1km circle around the icon-
is school-holiday time ite. (www.dimc.ae) ic Burj al-Arab hotel. (www
during the Easter break. .swimburjalarab.com)
This is a rollicking good July
month for music-festival 3 Middle East
and fashion fans. It is going to be hot,
hot, hot – so be sure to International Film
z Dubai Fashion don the floppy hat and Festival
sunscreen. Ironically, this Stars, directors, critics and
Week is low season so you can cinephiles descend upon
For the latest local trends, get some seriously good Abu Dhabi to meet, mingle
pay attention to the runway flight and hotel deals. and present the latest flicks
during this glam showcase from around the region in
for regional designers. The 7 Dubai Summer a warm-up to the Dubai
Spring/Summer collection is International Film Festival.
presented at a second event Surprises (www.meiff.com)
in October. (www.dfw.ae) Despite the sizzling time
of year, a combination of z Diwali
3 Chill Out Festival free kids’ entertainment
and major sales in shop- Lights, candles and fire-
A weekend event early in ping malls draws plenty of crackers illuminate this
the month, this robust line- tourists for this, the more magical festival of light,
up of chilled-out perform- family-focused little sibling which brings together the
ers and DJs takes place at of the Dubai Shopping Fes- ever-growing community
Nasimi Beach at the Palm tival. (www.mydsf.com) of Indian expats in Dubai.
Jumeirah. Recent line-ups Look for traditional sweets
at this beachfront location in supermarkets, particular-
include Erykah Badu and ly in Deira and Bur Dubai.
De La Soul. (www.chillout
festivaldubai.com)

22 (Top) Abu Dhabi Grand Prix
(Bottom) Opening night party of the Dubai International Film Festival
November
Plan your Trip Month by Month STR/Reuters/Corbis ©
7 Sharjah World
ALI HAIDER/epa/Corbis ©
Book Fair
This major regional book
fair presents the latest
tomes in Arabic, English
and other languages.
Readings, workshops and
symposia supplement the
exhibits. (www.swbf.gov.ae)

2 Abu Dhabi

Grand Prix
The Formula One racing
elite tests its mettle on this
wicked new track. (www
.yasmarina­circuit.com)

December

z UAE National Day

The birth of a nation in
1971 is celebrated across
the country on 2 December
with a range of events,
from boat parades to fire-
works, concerts to horse
shows and traditional
dances to military parades.

3 Dubai

International Film
Festival
This excellent non-
competitive film festival
is a great place to catch
international indie flicks as
well as new releases from
around the Arab world and
the Indian subcontinent.
(www.dubaifilmfest.com)

2 Mubadala World

Tennis Championship
This three-day champion-
ship, held in Abu Dhabi’s
Zayed Sports City, has big
cash prizes and attracts
grand-slammers from
the international circuit.
(www.mubadalawtc.com)

With 23
Kids
Junior Foodies
Arab culture reveres children and
Dubai and Abu Dhabi offer plenty When spirits and feet start to drag, there’s
of entertainment for youngsters, plenty of ice cream and kid-friendly meals
much of it extravagant in to pick them back up – look for the c sym-
novelty value (but not in cost). bol throughout this book. If you’re not sure
Waterparks and other adrenalin- where to eat, malls are a sure bet; most
fuelled activities are an obvious listed in this book have surprisingly good
choice, while hotel pools and food courts. All hotels have at least one
beaches are tamer options. restaurant suitable for families, usually
the 24-hour cafe or the buffet restaurant.
Philip & Karen Smith / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Discerning young diners may like to ease
themselves into Middle Eastern cuisine
with a shwarma, essentially a hot chicken
wrap and suitably tasty (and messy) to be a
big hit with most youngsters.

Themed Attractions

One of Dubai’s latest children’s attractions
is the extraordinary KidZania (p80), an
interactive miniature city with offices, a
school, a racetrack, a fire station, a hospital
and bank, and other real-world places.
Older kids can head for nearby Sega Repub-
lic (p90), an indoor game park with themed
areas and motion-simulator rides, while
space cadets can get starry-eyed at the
space-themed amusement park Stargate,
at Za’abeel Park (p67). If you want to crank
up the pace a notch or two, take the kids to
Ferrari World Abu Dhabi (p119) and have a
spin around the Junior Grand Prix.

Budding Artists

At Café Ceramique (www.cafe-ceramique
.com; Festival City) children get to select a
ceramic object of their choice – a mug
is generally a good bet, and sketch, then
paint a design of their choice. The master-
piece may then be collected a week later
after it has been glazed. It’s a great concept
for wannabe artists.

Nature Lovers

Kids fascinated by the underwater world
shouldn’t miss the mesmerising Aquarium
& Underwater Zoo (p79) at Dubai Mall,
or the labyrinth of underwater tanks and
fish-filled tunnels at the Lost Chambers
(p106). Children can also get up close and

Pl an your Trip W i t h K i ds24

Need to Know
¨¨Formula & disposable nappies (diapers) Sold at pharmacies and most super-
markets.
¨¨Babysitting Peekaboo (www.peekaboo.ae) has créches and play centres for
children aged zero to seven years at several shopping malls.
¨¨Kids clubs Many hotels have kids clubs and activities. Ask at reception.
¨¨Strollers & car seats Bring your own.
¨¨Transport Children under five years of age travel free on public transport.

personal with dolphins at Dolphin Bay Keeping the Teens Happy
(p115) or the Dubai Dolphinarium (p67) at
Creekside Park. Back on dry land, the Ris OK, so they’ve done the ski slopes, disco-
al-Khor Wildlife Sanctuary (p80) offers danced at the ice rink, splashed around at
junior twitchers the chance to see flamin- the waterparks and enjoyed a fashionable
gos and other exotic birds through binocu- strut around the malls. Is there more to
lars while, further afield, Al-Ain Wildlife prevent teens succumbing to total
Park (p129) has a petting zoo, giraffe rides Facebook-deprivation meltdown? Fortu-
and spacious enclosures for animals. Abu nately, yes! For the ultimate holiday pic
Dhabi also has the educational (and fasci- to impress their pals back home, consider
nating) Falcon Hospital (p120). sandboarding, camel riding, an overnight
desert safari or even a trekking trip to
Chilled-Out Kids the Hajar Mountains. All are offered by
several tour companies based in Dubai
Pint-sized winter-sport enthusiasts can (p126). Budding musicians may want to
cool down with a trip to the Dubai Ice Rink join a drum circle held at a desert camp
(p90) at Dubai Mall, or do the Alpine bit (p131), while Olympic-runner wannabes
and tackle the snow slopes at Ski Dubai can complete a lap or two with the Dubai
(p113) at Mall of the Emirates. Both are also Road Runners (p103). Scuba diving is an-
conveniently located for parents who want other option; young divers over 12 years of
to indulge in a little kid-free retail therapy. age are eligible for open-water dives with
Al Boom Diving (p102). There’s also tennis
Playgrounds & Parks (with courts at many midrange to top-end
hotels), volleyball and swimming. Children
Provided it is not the serious sunburn sea- up to 17 years of age can even go rock
son of July and August, Dubai has several climbing at the youth gym SkillZ (p103).
parks with picnic areas and playgrounds And, yes, it is a rock-climbing wall – Dubai
where children can let off steam. One of has not suddenly sprouted a mountain!
the biggest, best and greenest is Creekside
Park (p67), with attractions such as a Cool Down at the
cable-car ride, botanical garden, tandem Waterparks
bikes, a science museum and even a dol-
phinarium. Skateboard fiends may prefer Probably the most appealing entertain-
to swoop by Za’abeel Park (p67), which ment for hot and bothered kids visiting
also has a jogging track and space-age Dubai in summer is a trip to the water-
theme park, while tots can feed the ducks park. For some of the best spine-chilling
and enjoy the grassy lawns at Al-Safa Park slides, a visit to dramatically positioned
(p93) in Jumeirah. Alternatively, head Aquaventure (p115) is a suitable launch
for the beach road here and at Jumeirah pad, while the original family favourite,
Beach Park, which flanks the sand and has Wild Wadi Waterpark (p102), has gentler
playgrounds, barbecue pits, volleyball nets options in addition to thrill-seeking hold-
and picnic sites for those tired of sand in onto-your-shorts options.
their sarnies.

For Free John Elk III / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © 25

There is no denying that Dubai Souq Time
and Abu Dhabi can easily tempt
you to part with loads of dirhams Wandering around the souqs in Bur Dubai
(the Gold Souq comes glitteringly (p66) and Deira (p52) has to be one of the
to mind…). Fortunately there are most enjoyable and insightful experiences
still plenty of freebie attractions, here and, unless you succumb to the per-
as well as some cheapie options suasive vendors, it will cost you nothing
such as museums, art galleries more than shoe leather. Note that if you
and beaches. are interested in making a purchase, start
off your barter by offering half the quoted
Men’s traditional dance, Shindagha Heritage Area (p66) price. Choose from the textile, perfume,
spice, general or gold souq for your explo-
ration, and on no account miss the colour-
ful bustle of Hindi Lane (p65). If you opt to
visit souqs on both sides of the Creek, the
traditional abra (water taxi) crossing costs
just Dh1. Look for traditional coffee­houses
tucked away between the stalls for your
midmorning pick-me-up. It will cost you
a fraction of the cost of that half-pint of
latte-froth back home and is sure to deliver
twice the caffeine kick.

Traditions & Customs

Unabashedly geared towards tourists,
Bur Dubai’s Heritage and Diving Vil-
lages (p66) on the Shindagha waterfront
nonetheless provide real insight into the
region’s Bedouin traditions and maritime
past. These working villages/museums are
particularly entertaining for families, with
the only possible cost being the inevita-
ble tasting of freshly made traditional
sweets and pastries, or the purchase of
handc­ rafted souvenirs. Come here in the
evening for the most atmosphere and don’t
forget your camera.

Museum Cheapies

Dubai and Abu Dhabi may not have the
sheer number of museums of other major
tourist destinations, but at least those that
are here are free or very cheap. In Bur
Dubai, the free Traditional Architecture
Museum (p66) provides a fascinating
glimpse of traditional Arabic building
techniques, while the nearby Sheikh Saeed
al-Maktoum House (p66) is an architec-
tural gem and provides history buffs with
a jaunt back in time for just Dh2. Over
the Creek in Deira, the Heritage House
(p52) provides a peek at an early wealthy

Plan your Trip For Free26

Need to Know
¨¨Happy Hour Take advantage of happy hour and drinks’ promotions offered by
many bars.
¨¨Hotels Prices plummet to up to 50% in July and August.
¨¨Self-Catering Hotel apartments are an inexpensive option and mean serious
savings compared to eating out.
¨¨Transport Travel by the reasonably priced metro whenever possible.

pearl merchant’s residence with the only city’s congested centre. Creekside Park
cost being the non-obligatory coffee and (p67) has pleasant views, a cable car and
snacks (Dh1). Next door is the original Al- botanical gardens, while Za’abeel Park
Ahmadiya School (p53), dating from 1912, (p67) covers 51 hectares with landscaped
which features dioramas of classrooms and gardens, picnic areas and a large lake.
Quran lessons. Jumeirah’s Al-Safa Park (p93) has grassy
lawns for strolling, while Mushrif Park, on
Peruse the Art the airport road (behind Mirdif), is Dubai’s
oldest and largest park, covering some 500
Don your sunhat and sunblock, shift into hectares. Bird lovers can head for the Ras
exploring mode and head for the al-Khor Wildlife Sanctuary (p80), home to
industrial-zone confusion that is Al-Quoz flamingos and other exotic birds.
(p80), home to many of Dubai’s most ex-
citing art galleries. Many of the galleries Budget Grub
feature contemporary young artists prima-
rily from the Arab world; others have Tate Good food at cheap prices is relatively easy
Modern–style installations. It also costs to find in Dubai, given the large numbers
nothing to check out canvases at Gate Vil- of expat workers here. The ubiquitous
lage in the city’s Financial District (p82), shwarma fast food is the most obvious
where you’ll find some of the most exclu- choice but if you prefer a tablecloth, check
sive galleries this side of New York. The out the inexpensive Indian restaurants in
Bastakia area of Bur Dubai is home to still Bur Dubai (p67) and Deira (p54) as well as
more galleries and art museums, such as Middle Eastern restaurants, particularly
the British-run Majlis Gallery (p65), which Lebanese, which offer mezze of generally
also runs inexpensive art classes; and the excellent value for quality and quantity.
Al Serkal Cultural Foundation (p65), which
holds monthly exhibitions of mainly Mid- Sights for Free
dle Eastern artists.
One of the most spectacular free sights is
The Great Outdoors the choreographed dancing fountains at
Dubai Mall (p79) with the lit-up drama of
Although many of Dubai’s beaches have the Burj Khalifa (p79) as a soaring back-
been sadly swallowed up by luxury ho- drop. Similarly iconic, the Burj al-Arab is
tels, there are still some free sandy strips best viewed from one of the outdoor cafes
where you can take a dip without doling at another scenic winner: the traditional
out the dirhams. These include Jumeirah Arabian-style Souq Madinat Jumeirah
Open Beach (p94), Kite Beach (p94), Umm (p102). Dubai’s extraordinary shopping
Suqeim Beach (p94) and Jumeirah Beach malls cost nothing to wander around.
Residence Open Beach (p94), where your Don’t miss the dramatic waterfall and
most expensive outlay will be industrial exterior aquarium at Dubai Mall (p79), the
quantities of sunblock. stained-glass pyramids at Wafi Mall (p72)
and the view of the ski slopes at the Mall of
Dubai’s green spaces may be sparse the Emirates (p106).
but they offer a welcome respite from the

27

Eating

The culinary landscape in Dubai and Abu Dhabi mirrors the population
rather than local Emirati culture. In fact, there is little indigenous cuisine
(camel-milk chocolates don’t count!). It’s hard to go wrong with Middle
Eastern restaurants, while Indian cuisine is also a good bet, particularly if
you’re on a tight budget. Asian food is also well represented, with good Thai
and lots of Japanese on offer.

Wining & Dining and a carrot stick. Fine-dining places may
Enjoying a glass of wine with dinner is not have less choice; check websites in advance.
standard practice in Dubai and Abu Dhabi.
There are essentially two types of restaurant Farsi Food
here: the hotel restaurant and the independ- Iranian migrants moved to Dubai in droves
ent. Only hotels are licensed to serve alco- around the 1920s; their influence on the cul-
hol, which is why they house the city’s top ture, architecture and cooking remains.
dining rooms and why they are so popular. Dubai is the perfect place to sample the deep-
Alas, because they fall under the umbrellas ly underrated traditional Persian cuisine.
of giant corporate hotel chains with strict
S&P (standards and procedures) manuals Your appetite will be initially tantalised
that effectively flatten individuality, many of by soft, warm-from-the-oven bread rolled
these top-end spots lack the uniqueness and around cheese and herbs. Soup is also a
eccentricity you might find in a first-class staple of a traditional Persian meal, and the
Western restaurant. Head to the independ- preparation of rice is superb, ranging from
ent restaurants when you want ethnic the fluffy and light chelo rice to the herb-
authenticity; head to the hotels when you saturated pollo rice and the sticky kateh rice.
want splash and panache – and a big glass of
vino to wash it down. The closest thing Iran has to a national
dish is the chelo kebab, a dish of grilled
Vegetarian Dining lamb or chicken which has been marinated
Dubai and Abu Dhabi are good for vegetar- in onions and lime. Look for hearty lamb
ians, with lots of Asian and subcontinental stews on the Persian menu which typically
cuisine on offer. The idea of organic food is incorporate subtle spices and combinations
still quite new, so plan to eat conventional of okra, aubergine (eggplant) and spinach.
produce or shop for yourself at the Organic Finally, wash everything down with dogh, a
Foods & Cafe (p88). Many of the Indian res- yogurt drink like the Indian lassi, and fin-
taurants, particularly in Deira and Bur Du- ish your meal with falooda, an icy dessert
bai, are vegetarian so typically have several of frozen vermicelli noodles, rose water and
pages of menu choice. Even those that are cherry syrup.
not dedicated vegetarian restaurants still
do fantastic things with vegetables, paneer The following choices are a good bet for en-
(cheese) and rice. You can also fill up fast at joying an authentic Persian dining experience.
Lebanese restaurants with all-veg mezze, Iranian Club (see the boxed text, p110) So authen-
while Thai places have plenty of coconut- tic, women have to cover their heads.
and-chilli spiced veg curries and soups. Pars Iranian Kitchen (p96) Delightful al fresco
Vegans may be more challenged, but cer- setting and authentic tasty dishes.
tainly won’t be limited to a few lettuce leaves Shabestan (p54) Sophisticated, pricy and superb
Persian cuisine.
Special Ostadi (p69) A spit-’n’-sawdust authentic
Iranian restaurant.

28

Need to Know Finest Fast Food
Prepared authentically, the best fast
Price Ranges food ever invented just has to be the
shwarma, the staple food of the Middle
Pl an Your Trip EAT IN G In our listings we use the following price East. Although it has different names in
codes to represent the cost of a main other countries – gyros in Greece and
course. döner kebap in Turkey – it’s only known
as shwarma in Dubai and Abu Dhabi
$ under Dh50 (or shawarma, shawerma, chawerma,
but let’s not get too pedantic). While the
$$ Dh50–100 Greeks might disagree, this hand-held
meal originated in Turkey, where döner
$$$ over Dh100 literally means ‘one that turns’, referring to
the vertical rotisserie the shwarma meat is
Opening Hours cooked on. Strips of marinated meat (usu-
ally chicken or lamb) and fat are placed on
¨¨Restaurants are generally open from a huge skewer that rotates in front of the
noon to 3pm and from 7.30pm to mid- grill. Dubai is blessed with an enormous
night; inexpensive cafe-restaurants are number of shwarma joints but the rule is
generally open from 9am to midnight. to eat at those that are busy; they always
offer the freshest choice.
¨¨Most restaurants open seven days
a week, with the exception of Friday Fine Dining
lunch, when some smaller local eateries If you have reserved a table at one of the
close. top restaurants in Dubai or Abu Dhabi, do
dress up. Casual wear, particularly jeans
Reservations and trainers, is not recommended. At
¨¨Make reservations for hotel restau- worst you may be turned away at the door,
rants. Be prepared to give your mobile and at best, you’ll feel uncomfortably
number, and expect a call if you’re late. underdressed. If you don’t have a reserva-
tion, call to ask if there are any seats for
¨¨Make weekend bookings – Thursday walk-ins or last-minute cancellations.
and Friday nights, and Friday brunch –
for top tables at least a week ahead. Meals with a View
Not only can you enjoy a plentiful choice
Tipping of fine-dining restaurants here, but you
can also relish a stunning view (along with
Many restaurants, particularly in hotels, your meal). These range from the steely
tack on a 10% service charge, but modernity of dramatic high-rises to the
depending on the hotel, the employees evocative, old-fashioned feel of traditional
may never see this money. Leave an dhows.
additional 10% to 15% in cash, under the
ticket, particularly at low-end restau- Aquara (p108) Sleek yachts bobbing against a
rants. If service is perfunctory, it’s OK to backdrop of skyscrapers in Dubai Marina.
leave a mere 5%. Rivington Grill (p83) Grab a table on the
terrace and watch the fabulous dancing fountains
How Much? while you dine.
Shabestan (p54) Gaze at the ballet of dhows on
Street food, such as shwarma, costs the Creek.
around Dh4; an inexpensive curry at a Thiptara (p83) Dine on a lakeview deck beneath
cheap Indian restaurant costs about the world’s tallest tower.
Dh10. At midrange restaurants, mains Vu’s (p85) Top-of-the-world vistas from
run from Dh50 to Dh100, at top-end Jumeirah Emirates Towers.
spots more than Dh100. Alcohol will send
your bill sky-high – from Dh20 to Dh40
for a bottle of beer, or Dh25 to Dh100+
for a glass of wine.

Listings

Please note that the restaurant list-
ings in this book are ordered by author
preference.

29

Eating by Neighbourhood

Pl an Your Trip EAT IN GThe Gulf

6
6
6
66
6
6
Jumeirah4ú#44 4 #ú#ú44 #ú ú# 44ToNpeinwteDrnuabtiaonialSuBpeurrb DLeubbanaeise
Excellent seafood and Indian restaurants
restaurants (p95)cuisine with marina
views (p107) (p67)

Dubai Small aDndeiinreaxpensive
Mall ethnic restaurants
(p54)
#

SheikhWZiadeyeradngReooafdDu&baAi round
Mall restaurants (p83)

Self-Catering the biggest selection but the quality tends
The small grocery stores around Dubai to be better (and prices higher) at Spin-
are good for a box of washing powder, but neys. Both stock many products from the
they’re not much fun to browse if you’re UK, North America and Australia and are
a foodie trying to suss out Dubai’s culi- predictably popular with Western expats;
nary landscape. The closest thing you’ll they even have separate ‘pork rooms’ that
find to a farmers market is the Fruit and are off limits to Muslims. Choithram is
Vegetable Market (Map p206) next to the cheaper and caters more to the Indian and
Fish Market in Deira. There are several Pakistani communities. Many markets are
major supermarket chains with branches open until midnight; some never close.
throughout town. Carrefour has probably

30 Best Gourmet Best for Dessert
Experiences
Lonely Planet’s Top Mazina (p109)
Choices Rhodes Mezzanine (p107)
Fazaris (p84)
Pl an Your Trip EAT IN G Xiao Wei Yang (p54) Fresh Maya (p108) Paul (p71)
ingredients are prepared at Rhodes Mezzanine (p107)
the table at this down-to-earth Nina (p108) Best Asian Cuisine
Mongolian hotpot place. Eauzone (p107)
Eauzone (p107) Top-notch Lemongrass (p69)
fusion cuisine in a sublime Best for Zheng He’s (p95)
poolside setting. Atmosphere Pai Thai (p96)
Lemongrass (p69) Enjoy Noodle Bowl (p97)
delicately spiced Thai cuisine in Bastakiah Nights (p71) Sho Cho (p121)
soothing surroundings. Thiptara (p83)
Lime Tree Cafe (p95) Sunshiny Karma Kafe (p84) Best for Steaks
flavours meet organic ingredi- Bait Al Wakeel (p69)
ents equalling healthy, happy Awtar (p69) Fire & Ice (p70)
diners. Tribes (p109)
Asha’s (p69) This succulent, Best for Foodie The Meat Company (p96)
spicy Indian cuisine is pure Treats Rhodes Mezzanine (p107)
papadum perfection. Marco Pierre White Steakhouse
& Grill (p122)
Best Cheap Eats
Best for Gourmet
Noodle House (p85) Bateel (p74) Dining
Lime Tree Cafe (p95) Organic Foods & Cafe (p88)
Ravi (p96) Souq al-Bahar (p79) Traiteur (p54)
Lemongrass (p69) Candylicious (p88) Shabestan (p54)
Xiao Wei Yang (p54) Peppercrab (p67)
Best for Brunch Al-Mahara (p95)
Best Indian Cuisine Sayad (p122)
Thai Kitchen (p56)
Chutneys (p70) Aquara (p108)
Khazana (p70) Sezzam (p109)
Asha’s (p69) Spectrum on One (p85)
Indego (p107) Spice Island (p55)
Tiffinbites (p108)

31

Drinking &
Nightlife

Dubai is a destination famed for its see-and-be-seen nightlife. The best
nights are Thursday and Friday – Dubai’s weekend nights – when expats
burn off steam from their 12-hour-a-day working week. Plan to head to
hotels that are licensed to serve alcohol and which, unsurprisingly, are
home to most of the best bars and clubs. Note that Abu Dhabi’s best bars are
also found in its licensed hotels, while Sharjah is totally ‘dry’.

Which Bar? Pick ’n’ Mix Bars & Pubs
Finding the right bar can be tricky. Dubai From gritty to glam, multicultural Dubai
is the playground of the parvenu as much has plenty of bars and pubs to match your
as it’s a city of expat workers. Choosing an mood. Plan to visit a beach bar in Jumeirah
appropriate bar depends on the type of folk or Dubai Marina to see the sun set over the
you want to meet. Want to get a sense of Gulf, a quintessential Dubai experience; head
the social lives of resident workers? Follow to a fancy spot, whether it be a dance club or
the expats. Want to show off that new Marc a lounge, to ogle at arrivistes in impossibly
Jacobs outfit you just bought? Follow the high heels; or choose an expat bar to catch a
glam crowd. And then there are the niche buzz with overworked Westerners laughing
bars, places frequented by, say, Russian too loudly. If you like to make your own dis-
oligarchs and British footballers. Occasion- coveries, put down your guidebook and wan-
ally, you’ll spot a random dishdasha-clad der the ethnic backstreets of Deira, find a bar
local breaking ranks with his countrymen in a no-star hotel, maybe an Iranian or Fili-
(and the law) by drinking alcohol alongside pino club, and soak up the colour. Alas, this
Westerners, but this is an anomaly. method cannot be recommended for women,
single or in groups. There’s much prostitution
Ordering Drinks going on in these places and unless you’re
Alcohol is expensive, but that doesn’t stop dressed with nun-like modesty, boozed-up
rowdy Westerners from downing pint after patrons may mistake you for an easy girl.
shot after pint. Nurse your drinks or you’ll
shell out a lot of dirhams. Long waits at Sheesha Cafes
the bar are common at crowded venues. If you’re not up for drinking, hit the mellow
Conversely, waiters are trained to upsell sheesha cafes and play a game of backgam-
guests. If you hear ‘Would you like another mon. This is where you’ll spot the locals.
round?’, make clear exactly who at the table Emiratis don’t like to be around alcohol, but
wants one or you may wind up with a full they sure love coffee. Dubai’s sheesha cafes
table of glasses – and a hefty bill. The same also provide great insights into local culture.
applies if you order a bottle of wine; waiters Even if you don’t smoke, it’s worth reclining
often empty a bottle into one person’s glass languorously and sampling a puff to better
rather than divvy the last of it up between understand this traditional male-dominated
everyone’s, then look at those whose glasses Middle Eastern pastime. Sheesha cafes are
are empty and ask, ‘Another bottle?’ Also, be open until after midnight, later during win-
wary when you order a bottle of wine from ter months. The going rate is Dh20 to Dh60
a restaurant wine list as cheaper wines will for all you can inhale.
usually be slipped between far more expen-
sive bottles, which could easily add a couple Ramadan Restrictions
of zeros to your bill if your index finger If you are planning on partying during
wavers during ordering! your visit then ensure you avoid Ramadan.

32

Pl an Your Trip D RINKIN G & NI G H T LI F E Need to Know can find ardent club kids grooving beneath
disco balls to house music, the preferred
Costs sound in Dubai. Thursday and Friday are
It’s enough to give anyone the hiccups. the big nights out, when marauding expats
You could pay anything from Dh20 to join gyrating tourists on the dance floor.
Dh40 for a pint of beer here or Dh25 to For up-to-date details on what’s happening
Dh100+ for a glass of wine, depending in the club world, check out the following
on quality and vintage. Hotels add a 10% websites.
service charge. ¨¨www.dubailook.com
¨¨www.platinumlist.ae
Opening Hours ¨¨www.timeoutdubai.com
¨¨Many bars and clubs are open seven ¨¨www.ohmrecords.com
days a week, although some close one ¨¨www.infusion.ae
day a week.
¨¨Alcohol service is illegal between Club Policies
4pm and 6pm on Friday and Saturday. The door policies obviously vary according
¨¨Hotel bars are generally open from to the venue but it is not unusual for top
around 11am to 3pm and from 6pm to clubs to restrict entrance to advance res-
midnight. ervations only, particularly if a top inter-
¨¨Smaller venues may close at 1am. national DJ is spinning the discs. Always
¨¨Clubs open later, from around 8pm check websites first. Some clubs are also
to 3am, but don’t really get going until guilty of unabashed racist policies, particu-
11pm. larly against southern Asians, while others
turn away groups of single men, especially
Cover Charges on busy nights.
Cover charges range from Dh50 to
Dh300 depending on whether there’s a Overall, the Dubai nightclubbing scene is
big-name DJ. Ladies should look out for an opportunity for the local fashionistas to
specified ‘Ladies’ Nights’ offered at many strut their stuff, so be prepared to seriously
bars around town; these generally offer dress up or risk feeling seriously frumpy, or,
up to two free drinks, including cocktails. worse still, being turned away at the door.
Beachside venues are generally more infor-
Listings mal although there will still be plenty of
Please note that the drinking and night- designer tags and attitude on display.
life listings in this book are ordered by
author preference. Transport Tips

Although most bars remain open in the ¨¨It’s best not to criss-cross the city on a
evening (it is still legal to serve alcohol weekend; traffic is abominable on Thursday and
after sundown), live-music venues and Friday nights and taxis can be hard to come by.
nightclubs with dancing generally close for ¨¨Stick to a particular area or two for your
the entire period – even background music nightlife entertainment, such as Dubai Marina,
must be kept to a minimum. Jumeirah, Downtown Dubai, Deira or Bur Dubai.
¨¨Under no circumstances should you ever get
Big-name DJs behind the wheel of a car if you’ve had even one
DJs spin nearly every night of the week sip of alcohol because…
(except during Ramadan), with regular ¨¨Dubai has a zero-tolerance policy on drink-
one-off dance events. The repertoire is driving and you could be imprisoned for up to
global – funk, soul, house (lots of house), a month if you are caught under the influence
trip-hop, hip hop, R&B, African, Arabic and behind the wheel.
Latino. Clubbers come out in force when
big-name DJs like Pierre Ravan, Roger Buying Alcohol
Sanchez and Joey Negro jet in for the week- One of the most common questions among
end, but even on a regular old Tuesday, you first-time visitors here is: ‘Can I buy alco-
hol?’ The answer is yes – in some places.

33

Drinking & Nightlife by Neighbourhood

Pl an Your Trip D RINKIN G & NI G H T LI F EThe Gulf

6
6
6
66
6
6
4û#44 4 #û#û44 û# û# 44BeacNhesiwdeDnuigbhatsipotsJumeirah
Live music and
and live-music venuestheatre (p97)
(p109)
ChoicBe uofrsDopuhbisatiicated
and casual clubs (p72)
Mall of the

Emirates
#
Live-mDuesiircavenues
Sheikh Zayed Road & Around and clubs (p57)
Boho-cool clubs and
art-house cinema (p86)

When arriving by air, you can, as a non- The Sin Tax
Muslim visitor over 18, buy certain quanti- How exactly do the authorities decide on
ties of booze in the airport duty-free shop those sky-high booze prices? Yes, it’s all
upon arrival (the limit is 4L of spirits, wine down to a hefty haram (literally ‘forbid-
or beer). With the exception of ‘dry’ Sharjah, den’) tax. Consider the following (or go
where alcohol and even sheesha (water pipe) teetotal) during your trip.
smoking is banned, you can also purchase
alcohol in bars and clubs that are generally ¨¨A bottle of Californian plonk that costs US$10
attached to four- and five-star hotels for wholesale automatically incurs a 50% import
on-site consumption. Expat residents can tax, upping the importer’s price to $15.
acquire an alcohol licence, which entitles
them to a fixed monthly limit of alcohol ¨¨Add a 33% profit for the importer, and now it
available from alcohol stores. The only store costs $20.
where you can officially buy alcohol without
a licence is at the Barracuda Beach Resort ¨¨The Dubai-based purchaser (ie the hotel that
in the northern emirate of Umm al-Quwain, sells it to the consumer) pays a 30% tax. Now it
north of Sharjah, about an hour’s drive costs US$26 – at wholesale.
north of Dubai. Note that you are not of-
ficially allowed to transport alcohol through ¨¨The hotel then marks up the price 200% to
‘dry’ Sharjah, although most people just make its profit and pay its employees. Now it
seem to take the risk anyway. costs about $75.

¨¨At the moment of sale, the public pays an
additional 20%, jacking up the final retail price
to a whopping $90.

34 Best for Smoochy Hive (p87)
Ambience Nasimi Beach (p112)
Lonely Planet’s
Top Choices Best for Pub Grub

Pl an Your Trip D RINKIN G & NI G H T LI F E Rooftop Bar (p109) Indulge in Koubba (p98) Irish Village (p57)
a little gentle hip-swinging to 360°(p98) Double Decker (p87)
chilled-out sounds while enjoy- Bar Zar (p98) Fibber Magee’s (p87)
ing panoramic views. Ku-Bu (p57) Nezesaussi (p87)
BiCE Sky Bar (p110) Immensely Rooftop Bar (p109)
popular venue providing a Catwalk Club (p112) Best for High-Rollin’
crowd-pleasing mix of heady DJs
cocktails and views. Best for Ladies’
Buddha Bar (p111) A gorgeous Nights N’Dulge (p112)
bar with candlelight and sump- People by Crystal (p72)
tuous decor for true romantics. Blends (p111) Chi (p72)
Irish Village (p57) A congenial Nasimi Beach (p112) Zinc (p87)
Irish pub with blarney decor, Barasti (p111)
a leafy setting and regular live Left Bank (p97) Best for Waterfront
music. 1897 (p111) Views

Best for Cocktails Best for the Glam Terrace (p57)
Crowd Ikandy (p86)
Red Lounge (p72) Sho Cho (p98)
Uptown Bar (p97) Buddha Bar (p111) Nasimi Beach (p112)
Skyview Bar (p97) Red Lounge (p72)
Bar 44 (p111) Cin Cin (p86) Best for (Relatively)
Cristal (p122) Economical Drinks
Best for Panoramic Etoiles (p123)
Views Irish Village (p57)
Best for Special Old Vic (p72)
Maya (p111) Promotions Cooz (p72)
Rooftop Bar (p109) Belgian Café (p122)
Bar 44 (p111) Bar Zar (p98)
Skyview Bar (p97) Terrace (p57)
Red Lounge (p72)
Neos (p86)

35

Entertainment

Generally you don’t come to Dubai if you’re after full-on highbrow
entertainment. Live performances tend to be light fare – musicals, cabaret
or touring shows. That said, you can find some serious stars on the
concert circuit both here and in neighbouring Abu Dhabi: Tom Jones, Paul
McCartney and Britney Spears all played to sell-out audiences in 2011.

Movie Time Recipe; Arabic folk trio Dahab; hard-rock
If you want to catch a movie, you’ve got band Nikotin; and reggae rock by Sho.
plenty of high-tech multiplexes to take in the Dubai-based quintet Juliana Down gained
blockbusters; almost all are in shopping serious cred when they warmed up the
centres. Alternative and art-house cinemas crowd at a 2011 concert of Guns N’ Roses in
are practically nonexistent (there’s one Abu Dhabi. Meanwhile, long-term favourite
screen at Reel Cinemas in Dubai Mall that Sandwash released the album Master Blast-
screens non-mainstream fare). Galleries and er Hole in 2010, a crisp pop-punk selection of
alternative venues, such as the XVA Cafe edgy and experimental compositions.
(p71), occasionally run one-off film nights.
Also check out the Alliance Française (Map Concert Venues
p214; %04-335 8712; www.afdubai.org), which International top talent also comes to town,
shows weekly films in French and occasion- although many bypass Dubai to give con-
ally hosts festivals. Indie screenings are certs at the swanky Yas Arena in Abu Dhabi,
usually free and promoted in Time Out. where big names like Paul McCartney ap-
Another good site to unearth upcoming peared in 2011. Still, it was Sting, Carlos San-
screenings is www.artinthecity.com. tana and Elton John who gave the inaugural
concerts at Dubai’s Meydan Racecourse in
The Dubai International Film Festival early 2010. Other venues that have hosted
(p22), usually held in December, is arguably big stars (such as Robbie Williams, Tom
the cinematic highlight of the year. There’s Jones and Jamie Cullum) include the Dubai
also the Middle East International Film Media City Amphitheatre, Dubai Festival
Festival (p21), held in Abu Dhabi in October, City Arena and the Sevens Stadium.
which is seen as a warm-up for the Dubai
event. The other weeks of the calendar can Unfortunately, several fledgling mu-
be disheartening. The only independent sic festivals, such as Dubai Desert Rock
cinemas are dedicated to Tamil, Hindi and Festival and Desert Rhythm, have been
Malayalam films, while English-language postponed ‘until further notice’. Thankfully
films are restricted to the unadventurous the Dubai International Jazz Festival is an
multiplexes. exception and celebrated its 10th anniver-
sary in 2012, with James Morrison, Jason
Live Music Mraz and Jools Holland included on the
Dubai’s live-music scene is finally generating star-studded line-up.
a buzz. Although cover bands still predomi-
nate, there’s an increasing pool of local tal- Meanwhile, you might also want to keep
ent hitting the stages of such venues as Chi an eye out for Middle Eastern and subcon-
(p72), Barasti (p111), Fridge (p98), Jambase tinental stars. When you see big posters
(p98 and the Irish Village (p57). Homeg­ rown and hear multiple radio ads for acts you’re
bands to keep an ear out for include metal unfamiliar with, do a quick Google search to
band Nervecell; the hip-hop collective The find out where they’re from. There’s a reason
they’re so popular. Lebanese, Indian,

Pl an Your Trip EN T ER TAIN M EN T36 Pakistani and Iranian acts draw big
crowds of expat locals… This is the stuff
Need to Know you can’t hear back home. Check Time
Out and 7 Days magazines for the latest
Costs line-up.
Costs vary wildly, depending on whether
you’re hearing a jazz trio in a snazzy bar The Arts
where a glass of wine can easily cost Dubai’s performing arts scene is still in
Dh50, or attending a big-name concert its infancy, but there are some new venues
with tickets typically starting at Dh200. that give hope for an increasingly bright
future. The Dubai Community Theatre and
Music Bans Arts Centre (DUCTAC; p112) is one of the
Dancing and loud music in public few spaces that also trains the spotlight on
places is strictly forbidden. This includes local talent.
beaches, parks and residential areas;
dancing is restricted to licensed venues Hitting the Town
only. If you are doing some gyrating at a For entertainment listings, your safest bet
bar without a music licence, you may be is the weekly Time Out magazine, although
unceremoniously asked to stop. the freebie 7 Days is also worth a glance.
Look for free guides and leaflets promot-
Door Policies ing clubs, dance parties and gigs; find
These obviously vary according to the them at bars, cafes, Virgin Megastore (p61)
venue but it is not unusual for top clubs and Ohm Records (p74). The same places
to restrict entrance to advance reserva- should also have copies of Infusion, an
tions only, particularly when a top inter- excellent free biweekly pocket-sized mag
national DJ is spinning the discs. Always covering clubs, bars, movies, music,
check websites first. fashion and other lifestyle topics.

Entertainment Hours As usual, the most current information
¨¨Clubs open late, from around 8pm is on the web. Infusion’s website (www.
to 3am, but don’t really get going until infusion.ae) has an up-to-the-minute party
11pm. schedule. The same goes for the online club
¨¨Concerts kick off late, generally not guide on www.platinumlist.ae, which also
before 10pm. lets you book tickets to the major events.

Drinking Otherwise, for tickets to concerts and
It is worth repeating in this section that other shows, phone the Time Out ticket-
Dubai has zero tolerance of drinking and line on %800 4669 (%+971 4 210 8567
driving, so if you intend to have a drink from overseas). Or buy online at either
at the concert venue bars, leave the car www.timeouttickets.com or www.box
at home. officeme.com.

Blaine Harrington III/Corbis © 37

Stained-glass dome of Wafi Mall (p72)

Shopping

Dubai loves to shop. The city has just about perfected the art of the mall,
which is the de facto ‘town plaza’: the place to go with the family, hang out
with friends and be entertained. Dubai malls have ski slopes, ice rinks and
aquariums. They look like ancient Persia, futuristic movie sets or a little bit
of Disneyland, surrounded by desert.

38

Pl an Your Trip S HOPPIN G Need to Know Festival (p73). The souqs in Deira and Bur
Dubai can equal good prices, providing
Opening Hours you are willing to haggle. In general, cut
the first suggested price by half and start
Malls in Dubai open from 10am to 10pm from there. The Deira Gold Souq is one
Sunday to Wednesday, from 10am to of the cheapest places in the world to buy
midnight Thursday to Saturday (week- gold and, because the regulations regard-
ends), and later during the Dubai Shop- ing authenticity are very strict here, you
ping Festival and Ramadan (often until can be sure that if you are considering a
1am). Traditionally, souqs and non-mall 24-carat bauble, then it is undoubtedly
stores close a few hours during the after- genuine. Small Indian- or Asian-run
noon for prayer, lunch and rest, and don’t department stores are also good places to
open on Fridays until late afternoon, pick up bargain basics, as long as you’re
but that’s changing. These days many not looking for anything of fashion cat-
remain open all day. Malls get packed on walk calibre. And don’t miss the Dubai
Friday nights. Flea Market (www.dubai-fleamarket.com),
held on the first Saturday of the month at
Returns Al-Safa Park in Jumeirah, where you can
find just about everything – including the
Try before you buy and ask about return kitchen sink.
policies, especially for gifts. Many stores
offer returns for store credit only. When Main Malls
in doubt, consider a gift certificate,
which generally has an extensive expira- Dubai Mall (p88) The shopper’s Shangri-La,
tion period and with international chains Dubai Mall is the largest shopping mall in the
can often be used online. world.

Websites Mall of the Emirates (p112) Another whopper,
¨¨www.quickdubai.com Great for probably most famous for its indoor ski slope.
gifts, including last-minute essentials BurJuman Centre (p72) Especially good for
such as cakes and flowers. high-end fashion.
¨¨www.sukar.com A private online Mirdif City Centre (p58) Opened in 2010 with a
shopping site offering top discounts on superb range of shops, plus a massive play station
known brands. You will need an invite – for kids.
persevere, you won’t be sorry. Ibn Battuta Mall (p113) Covers six country-
¨¨www.souq.com A local version of themed courts on one easy-to-navigate level.
eBay with some top bargains and plenty Deira City Centre (p58) One of the first malls to
of variety. open here.
¨¨www.nahel.com A great range of Dubai Festival Centre (p61) A pretty canalside
products, including electronics, per- setting, plus great restaurants and shops.
fumes and watches. Marina Mall (p113) More than 400 shops on the
¨¨www.berrybehaved.com Includes breakwater, plus a huge activity centre for kids.
home-decor items and stylish Abu Dhabi Mall (p123) A tempting choice of bou-
accessories. tiques, designer stores and international chains.
¨¨www.emiratesavenue.com Great for
the latest electronics, including TVs and Best Buys
iPhones.
Bedouin Jewellery
Listings
¨¨The listings in this title are in order of Bedouin jewellery is brilliant in Dubai and
author preference. with the steady popularity of boho ethnic
chic, makes a great gift. Look for elaborate
How to Find a Bargain silver necklaces and pendants, chunky ear-
The range of stores – high-street to de- rings and rings, and wedding belts, many
signer, electronics to carpets – is amazing, of which incorporate coral, turquoise and
but true bargains are as rare as tulips in semiprecious stones. Very little of the
Tonga, except during the Dubai Shopping older Bedouin jewellery comes from the

39

Shopping by Neighbourhood

Pl an Your Trip S HOPPIN GThe Gulf

6
6
6
66
6
6
4þ#44 4 þ#þ#44 #þMaNgneiwficDenutbMaaill ofJumeirah
Indie
fleathe Emirates (p112)
mboaurktieqtu(eps9a9n)dJMumoseqirua#ehTBaaiulno(rdrpsDm7, 2sua)oblulsaqis 4
4þ#
SheikDhuZbaaiyMeadll:Rtoheadwo&rldA’sround
GoldDaenirdaSpice
Souqs (p58)

largest (p88)

Emirates; most of it originates in Oman, cate of authentication guaranteed by the
Yemen and Afghanistan. Dubai Chamber of Commerce & Industry,
so you can be sure that the carpet actually
Exotic Delicacies comes from where the vendor says it does.

Fragrant Iranian and Spanish saffron costs Kitsch Souvenirs
far less here than it does back home. Buy it
in Deira’s Spice Souq or in supermarkets. The ultimate kitsch souvenir used to be a
Honey from Saudi Arabia and Oman is colourful mosque clock with an irritating
scrumptious. Look for it in speciality shops call-to-prayer alarm. Now the souqs and
in Satwa, in the Spice Souq and in super- souvenir shops overflow with wacky, kitsch
markets. Its colour ranges from light gold gifts – glass Burj al-Arab paperweights,
to almost black. wooden Russian dolls painted as Emiratis,
Barbie and Ken dolls in Emirati dress,
Carpets key rings strung with miniature towers,
camel-crossing-sign fridge magnets, and
Dubai is a carpet-lover’s paradise. Fine Per- coffee mugs and baseball caps with Sheikh
sian carpets, colourful Turkish and Kurd- Zayed or Sheikh Mohammed waving to the
ish kilims, and rough-knotted Bedouin crowd.
rugs are all widely available. Dubai has
a reputation in the region for having the Perfume & Incense
highest-quality carpets at the best prices.
Bargaining is the norm. If you can’t secure Attars (Arabian perfumes) are spicy and
the price you want, head to another store. strong. Historically, this was a necessity:
When you buy a carpet, ask for a certifi- with precious little water, washing was a

40

Pl an Your Trip S HOPPIN G sometimes-thing, so women smothered breadth of stock. There are a whopping
themselves in attars and incense. As you 700 jewellery stores in Dubai, with nearly
walk past Emirati women, catch a whiff of 300 at the Gold Souq and about 90 at the
their exotic perfume. You can find Arabian- Gold & Diamond Park.
perfume shops in all Dubai’s malls, but
we highly recommend you visit Deira’s Arabian Handicrafts & Souvenirs
Perfume Souq, a small stretch lined with
perfume stores along Sikkat al-Khail and Arabian handicrafts are as popular with
Al-Soor Sts in Deira, just east of the Gold Dubai visitors as carpets, gold and per-
Souq. fume. The Oriental decor of the city’s
top-end hotels and restaurants seems to
Shopping for perfume can wear out inspire travellers to pack away little pieces
your sense of smell. If you’re in the market of exotica to recreate their own little
for Arabian scents, do what top perfum- genie bottles back home. Head to the souqs
ers do to neutralise their olfactory palate: for Moroccan coloured lanterns, Syrian
close your mouth and make three forceful rosewood furniture inlaid with mother-of-
exhalations through your nose. Blast the pearl, Arabian brass coffee pots, Turkish
air hard, in short bursts, using your dia- miniature paintings, and embroidered
phragm. Blowing your nose first is prob- Indian wall hangings and cushion covers
ably a wise idea…. Some people incorrectly dotted with tiny mirrors.
say to smell coffee grounds, but all this
practice does is numb your sense of smell. Gourmet Products

Textiles The de rigeur gift for any proper gourmet,
Bateel dates (www.bateel.ae) are the
Vendors at Bur Dubai Souq and along ultimate luxury food of Arabia. Bateel
nearby Al-Fahidi St carry vibrant, colour- dates will spoil you for the more standard
ful textiles from the Indian subcontinent variety, for ever. The dates come from
and southeast Asia. They’re remarkably Saudi Arabia, which has the ideal grow-
cheap, but quality varies. Silk, cotton and ing conditions: sandy, alkaline soil and
linen represent the best value. Dubai’s extreme heat. Quality control is tight:
tailors work quickly, and their rates are Bateel has its own farms and production
very reasonable. Prices start at around equipment. The dates sold here are big and
Dh35 for a shirt or skirt. Draperies may fat, with gooey-moist centres. Because they
cost as little as Dh10 apiece. have a 70% sugar content, dates technical-
ly have unlimited shelf life, but you’ll find
Electronics they taste best around the autumn harvest.

If it plugs into a wall you can buy it in At first glance, Bateel boutiques look
Dubai. Because of minimal duties, Dubai like a jewellery store, with polished-glass
is the cheapest place in the region to buy display cases and halogen pin spots illu-
electronics and digital technology. The minating the goods. A closer look reveals
selection is huge. Research products of perfectly aligned pyramids of dates – thou-
interest before hitting the stores though; sands of them. Bateel plays to its audience
sales staff don’t always know enough. For with gorgeous packaging that might leave
the lowest prices and no-name brands, the recipient of your gift expecting gold or
head to Al-Fahidi St in Bur Dubai and the silver within.
area around Al-Sabkha and Al-Maktoum
Hospital Rds, near Baniyas Sq, known The stuffed dates make a great gift – try
as the Electronics Souq. If you want an the candied orange peel and caramelised
international warranty, shell out the extra almonds. If you miss your chance in town
money and head to a mall, Carrefour or (there are several branches), you can stock
Jumbo Electronics. up at the airport as you leave Dubai. A
cardboard box will set you back Dh120 per
Gold & Gems kilogram, a fancy box Dh200, and a little
beribboned sampler of five or seven perfect
The City of Gold’s glistening reputation dates around Dh30.
grows from low prices and the sheer

41

Lonely Planet’s Bateel (p74) Global Village (p73)
Top Choices Lata’s (p102) Art Dubai (p20)

Ajmal (p74) Exotic Arabian Best for Accessories Best Shopping Pl an Your Trip S HOPPIN G
essential oils and perfumes sold Malls
in exquisitely beautiful bottles. Marami (p88)
S*uce (p99) Sassy avant-garde Blue Cactus (p100) Dubai Mall (p88)
fashions from a wide range of Topshop (p101) Mall of the Emirates (p112)
young international designers. Forever 21 (p114) BurJuman Centre (p72)
Candylicious (p88) Realise Ginger & Lace (p113) Mirdif City Centre (p58)
your ultimate sweet dream at
this colourful giant-size candy Best for Best for Body
store. Electronics Beautiful
United Designers (p58)
Showcasing exciting young local Al-Ain Centre (p74) Faces (p74)
designers with totally original Jumbo Electronics (p114) Lush (p60)
fashion. Bang & Olufsen (p75) Ajmal (p74
Ginger & Lace (p113) Sexy Fono (p114)
fashions in silky fabrics with lots Best Mall
of floral and lace. Entertainment

Best Cut-Price Best for Women’s Ski Dubai (p113)
Shopping Streets Fashion Dubai Ice Rink (p90)
Dubai Fountain (p79)
Khalid bin al-Waleed Rd, If (p99) Dubai Aquarium & Underwater
Bur Dubai (Map p210) S*uce (p99) Zoo (p79)
Al-Fahidi St, Bur Dubai (Map Luxecouture (p100)
p210) Ginger & Lace (p113) Best ‘Faux’
Al-Hisn St & 73 St, Bur Dubai Bauhaus (p114) Souqs
(Map p210) United Designers (p58)
Al-Rigga Rd, Deira (Map p206) Souq Khan Murjan (p72)
Al-Satwa Rd, Satwa (Map 218) Souq al-Bahar (p88)
Souq Madinat Jumeirah (p102)
Best for Gifts Best Shopping
Festivals
O’ de Rose (p99)
Camel Company (p102) Dubai Shopping Festival (p73)
Dubai Summer Surprises (p73)

42

Sports &
Activities

Before the boom, Emiratis spent their free time watching camel races, riding
horses and boating. Today, sports and activities in Dubai and Abu Dhabi
have broadened to reflect the new population. You could spend an afternoon
skittering across the surf on a kiteboard or enjoying a luxury spa treatment.
And if you can’t stand the sweltering heat – there’s always Ski Dubai.

Health & Fitness Arthur Murray Dance School (www.arthur
The health-and-fitness set is composed murraydubai.com) with branches in New
primarily of Western expats. With so many Dubai (p115) and Souq al-Bahar (p79).
people working so hard to continue wearing Private classes are also available.
their skinny jeans, they gravitate to health
clubs, yoga studios and fitness centres, and Skiing
Dubai is full of sore muscles. Consequently, The largest indoor ski slope in the world,
massage and beauty-treatment schedules at Ski Dubai (p113; www.skidxb.com), located at
day spas fill up fast: book ahead. If you prefer the Mall of the Emirates, is an essential for
swimming in salt water instead of chlorine, winter-sport enthusiasts. You can also take
check out one of the public or paid beaches. lessons and learn how to snowboard.

Day Spas & Massage Running
Though you can get a good rub-down at The winter months are cool enough for run-
most sports clubs, for the proper treatment ning nearly anytime during the day; in sum-
book a dedicated spa. Dubai’s spas like to mer you’ve got to get up with the sun to jog
incorporate food into their treatments – with no fear of heatstroke. There are excel-
berries, chocolate, even gingerbread at lent jogging tracks in Al-Safa Park (p93) and
Christmas. If you’re dubious, more- Za’abeel Park (p67), and along Jumeirah
conventional treatments are also available. Beach (p94). Prefer running with company?
Make reservations as far in advance as Check out the Dubai Road Runners (p103) or
possible for top spas such as Amara (p61) the Dubai Creek Striders (www.dubaicreek
and the Oriental Hammam (p115). Ask if a -striders.com; Sheikh Zayed Rd). If you’re into
spa treatment includes use of the pool and the more social aspects of running (read:
grounds. If it does, make a day of it – arrive drinking afterwards), look into Dubai’s
early and wait poolside. Note: facials look ‘hashing’ clubs at www.deserthash.org. The
best the next day, so if you have a fancy Dubai Marathon (p20) takes over city streets
dinner engagement and want to look great, in January.
get the treatment the day before. Most
spas offer manicures and pedicures, but if Water Sports
you want a dedicated nail salon, try Nail
Spa (www.thenailspa.com); there are several Diving
branches around town, including one in the
Mercato Mall in Jumeirah (Map p218). Diving around Dubai means mostly nosing
around shipwrecks on the sandy seabed
Dancing of the Gulf at a depth of between 10m and
Strictly Come Dancing fans can take classes 35m. The better sites are generally a long
in everything from the foxtrot to the night- way offshore and mostly for experienced
club two-step at the renowned US-founded divers. Creatures you might encounter in-
clude clownfish, sea snakes, Arabian angel-
fish and possibly even rays and barracuda.

43

For novices, the sites off the United Arab Need To Know Pl an Your Trip S POR T S & AC T I V I T IE S
Emirates (UAE) East Coast (Khor Fakkan
and Dibba; see p132) are most suitable. Planning Ahead
Also popular are dive spots still further
north, off the rugged Musandam Penin- Dubai and Abu Dhabi host some top
sula, which is actually part of Oman. How- sports events over the year and it’s
ever, fast-flowing currents here require a imperative that you reserve your place
higher level of experience. In recent times, and book tickets in advance, especially
the eastern shores have been beleaguered for such grand-slam events as
by the red tide (see the boxed text, p164), so Abu Dhabi’s Grand Prix.
be sure to ask dive operators about condi-
tions. A day’s diving includes two dives Time of Year
and costs around Dh300 to Dh450, includ-
ing the boat ride and equipment. If you are planning to attend or partici-
pate in an event, bear in mind the time of
For details on the top dive and snorkel- year, as this can dramatically impact the
ling sites in the UAE and the Musandam, cost of your stay with hotels and flights
consult the 180-page UAE Underwater costing considerably more outside the
Explorer (www.explorerpublishing.com). midsummer months.

Kitesurfing Buying Tickets
Check websites for relevant reservations
Kitesurfers congregate at northwest-facing procedures. The following sites are good
Kite Beach (p94), aka Wollongong Beach, sources of ticket info and booking:
where there’s a designated launch and ¨¨www.boxofficeme.com
recovery area. It’s about 3km north of the ¨¨www.itp.net/tickets
Burj al-Arab, past Umm Suqeim Hospital ¨¨www.dubaisportscity.ae
in the district of Umm Suqeim 1. Novices
should take a few lessons (about Dh300 per Costs
hour). Qualified instructors can be found Costs obviously vary wildly depending
at Duco Maritime (%050 870 3427; www on the event, but you can reckon on
.ducomaritime.com). spending around Dh2000 on a three-day
Grand Prix pass, Dh230 on a top rugby
Surfing match and Dh230 on a ticket for a golf
tournament such as the Omega Dubai
Jumeirah’s Open Beach is home to Dubai’s Desert Classic.
longest-standing surf school, with lessons
available daily from 9am to 5pm, depend- %04-205 4646; www.dubaigolf.com; near Deira
ing on surf conditions. Board rental is side of Al-Garhoud Bridge) offers boat charters
Dh50 an hour or Dh200 a day. For details, aboard skippered 33ft vessels. A one-hour
see Surf Dubai (%050 622 3020; www.surfing Creek cruise costs Dh800, while three-
dubai.com). hour trips taking in the Palm Deira are
Dh2200. The six-hour trip (Dh3800) goes
Waterskiing down the coast to the Palm Jumeirah via
the Burj al-Arab.
Waterskiing in the polluted Dubai Creek
is not recommended. Instead, head to Waterparks
Dubai Marina or Abu Dhabi. Waters­ kiing
at a Gulf-front five-star hotel with its Dubai has two waterparks: Wild Wadi
own beach club costs around Dh150 for Waterpark (p102) and Aquaventure (p115).
20 minutes – which, if you’re a novice, is
a long time. Nonguests must also pay a Gyms
daily admission fee for access to the hotel Nearly every hotel in Dubai has a gym, but
grounds and beach club (usually about the equipment is often chosen by people
Dh75 to Dh250). Try Le Meridien Mina who don’t work out. The worst have only
Seyahi (p94), where beach access costs a few stationary bikes and a cumbersome
Dh150 (Dh250 on Friday and Saturday) all-in-one machine with too many cables
and waterskiing Dh150. and pulleys that constantly need adjust-
ing. The best have a full complement
Boat Charter

To get a perspective on just how far the
city now stretches, see it from the water.
Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht Club (Map p208;

44

Pl an Yo ur Trip S POR T S & AC T I V I T IE S of top-end circuit- and weight-training Dibba. If you don’t have a 4WD, you can
equipment. Admission to gyms generally still find some beautiful spots within walk-
costs about Dh100 for a one-day pass; it’s ing distance of well-paved roads.
twice that at a top-end hotel, but you’ll
gain access to the resort’s grounds, tennis Make sure you are adequately equipped
courts and swimming pool. If you’re going and are carrying a fully charged mobile
to a hotel gym, get your money’s worth by phone (preferably a GPS), sunscreen, insect
making a day of it. repellent and plenty of water.
Golf
Don’t even consider camping between
May and September when the days are
scorching and the nights hot and humid.

Dubai has become a big golfing destination Spectator Sports
and boasts several championship courses
designed by big names – such as Greg Horse Racing
Norman, designer of Jumeirah Golf
Estates (www.jumeirahgolfestates.com), the The single biggest sport among elite Emi-
first phase of which opened in November ratis is horse racing, with races held at the
2009 in time to stage the European Tour’s superb Meydan Racecourse (p89; www
first Dubai World Championship. Overall, . meydan.ae/racecourse), a futuristic stadium
clubs don’t require memberships but green with a grandstand bigger than most airport
fees can soar to Dh850 for 18 holes during terminals. Spanning 1.6km, it has a solar-
the peak winter season (roughly mid- and titanium-panelled roof, can accommo-
November to late March), although they date up to 60,000 spectators and integrates
drop the rest of the year, especially in a five-star hotel. For the exact racing sched-
summer. Proper attire is essential. If you’re ule and tickets, contact Dubai Racing Club
serious about golf, reserve your tee times (www.dubairacingclub.com). Even if you don’t
as soon as you book your hotel and flight. like horse racing, attending a race presents
great people-watching opportunities.

Desert Rallying & Sandboarding Camel Racing
Off-road driving in the desert (also disturb-
ingly known as ‘dune bashing’) is hugely Traditionally, camels were raced by child
popular. At weekends, the city’s traffic-tired jockeys, sometimes as young as six or
workers zip down the Dubai–Hatta road seven years and weighing less than 20kg.
and unleash their pent-up energy on the They were often ‘bought’ from impover-
sand dunes, such as the ruby-red heap of ished families in Pakistan or Bangladesh,
sand halfway to Hatta nicknamed ‘Big Red’. trained in miserable conditions and kept
deliberately underweight. International
All the major car-hire companies can human-rights groups decried the practice
provide 4WD vehicles. Expect to pay and in 2005 the UAE issued a ban on the
around Dh500 for 24 hours for a Toyota use of children. Human jockeys have since
Fortuner or a Hummer H3, plus CDW (Col- been replaced with robotic ones operated
lision Damage Waiver) of Dh60 and an remotely by their owners, who race around
extra Dh12 for personal insurance. the inside track in their SUVs, cheering on
their camels. Trust us, it’s a weird sight.
We strongly recommend a few hours
of training before you drive off-road If you want to watch camel racing, head
for the first time. Desert Rangers (Map to the Al Marmoom Camel Racetrack,
p220; www.desertrangers.com; 4hr driving around 45 minutes from the city on the
course per car Dh1800, sandboarding adult/ Dubai–Al-Ain E66 road. Races are held
child Dh250/160) provides basic and ad- from October to March at 7am and 2pm,
vanced courses. It also organises half-day mainly at weekends. Call ahead on %04-
sandboarding safaris with a camel ride 832 6526 to confirm. Entrance is free.
included in the price.
Motor Racing
Desert Camping
If you’ve hired a 4WD, the possibilities Motor sports are exceedingly popular with
for camping are fantastic. You can head Emiratis. The Emirates Motor Sports
to the windswept sand dunes of Liwa, the Federation (EMSF; www.emsf.ae) holds events
wadis near Hatta, the mountains of Ras al- throughout the year, with the important
Khaimah or the East Coast beaches around ones scheduled to take place during the
cooler months. A round of the FIA Cross-
Country Rally World Cup, the Abu Dhabi

45

Desert Challenge (www.abudhabidesert Competition Sports Calendar Pl an Your Trip S POR T S & AC T I V I T IE S
challenge.com) brings top rally drivers to
the UAE from around the world in March. Dubai Marathon (www.dubaimarathon.org)
There are several smaller rallies in Sweat it out in January with thousands of other
February and March, including the 1000 runners or just cheer ’em on during this popular
Dunes Rally and the Spring Desert Rally, street race with a prize fund of a million dollars. In
which are both 4WD events. Visit EMSF’s 2010, Haile Gebrselassie won the race for the third
website for details. year in a row. Less-energetic types can enter a
10km run or a 3km ‘fun run’.
UAE Football Dubai Desert Classic (www.dubaidesert
classic.com) The golfing elite, including Rory
On winter weeknights, neighbourhood McIlroy and Henrik Stenson, comes to town for
stadiums in Dubai are packed with up to this fine February event, held at the Emirates
10,000 spectators – mostly young Emirati Golf Club (p116). There have been some thrilling
men – passionately barracking for their finishes over the past couple of years – the 18th
favourite football teams. Surprisingly, hole has become legendary on the PGA circuit.
most foreigners (expats or visitors) hardly Dubai Tennis Championships (www.dubai
attend the matches. And they’re rarely tennischampionships.com) Big-name players like
covered by the local English-language Serena Williams and Novak Djokovic volley away at
press. If you’re a football fan, attend a this two-week pro event in February at the Aviation
match once and you may be hooked – the Club (p62). The women play in the first week, men
carnival atmosphere is electric. Fans dress in the second. It’s a big opportunity to see some
up in colour-coordinated outfits, and a great hitting in a relatively small stadium.
singer and band of drummers lead song Dubai World Cup (www.dubaiworldcup.com)
and dance routines to inspire their teams. Racing season culminates in March with the
world’s richest horse race, now held at the Meydan
Founded in 1973, the United Arab Emir- Racecourse (p89). Prize money rings up at a
ates (UAE) football league was renamed record-holding US$10 million. While there’s no
UAE Premier Division for the 2009/10 betting, this is the city’s biggest social event, with
season and consists of a dozen teams. Tem- local society women sporting the silliest hats this
pers may flare during matches between side of Ascot. Godolphin, the stable owned by
the old rivals: Al-Ahli, Sheikh Moham- Dubai’s royal family, tends to dominate proceed-
med’s red-and-white jersey team, and the ings on the racetrack.
purple-clad Al-Ain. Dubai-based Al-Ahli Dubai Rugby Sevens (www.dubairugby7s.com)
also represented the UAE in the 2009 FIFA Held in November or December, this is the first
Club World Cup, held in Abu Dhabi, losing round of the eight-leg International Rugby Board
0-2 to Auckland City in their only game. In Sevens World Series. The three-day event features
the 2010 FIFA club tournament, the Abu 16 international squads, various amateur teams
Dhabi–based Al-Wahda team represented and live entertainment. Up to 150,000 spectators
the UAE. make the pilgrimage to the spanking-new ‘The
Sevens’ stadium, about 30 minutes south of Sheikh
If you would like to attend a football Zayed Rd on the Al-Ain Rd. Book well ahead.
match, check the www.dubaifootball.com
and www.football7s.com websites, which Dubai World Championship Golf Tourna-
include schedules and venues of upcoming ment (www.dubaiworldchampionship.com) This
matches. You can purchase tickets via these major new golfing championship in November is
sites or from the dedicated ticket agencies the crowning tournament of the Race to Dubai. It
listed in the Need to Know section. pits the PGA European Tour’s top players against
each other in 49 tournaments in 26 destinations
Rugby over the course of one year. Held since 2008/9,
it replaced the European Tour Order of Merit and
Dubai’s rugby club, Dubai Exiles Rugby comes with a purse of US$7.5 million. It’s played on
Club (www.dubaiexiles.com), has been head- the new Jumeirah Golf Estates, which will eventually
quartered at a slick new stadium called consist of four courses designed by Greg Norman,
The Sevens, located about 30 minutes Sergio Garcia, Vijay Singh and Pete Dye.
outside Dubai on the Al-Ain Rd. The
Exiles are a founding member of the
Arabian Gulf Rugby Football Union and
put on one of Dubai’s biggest sporting
events, the Dubai Rugby Sevens (www
.dubairugby7s.com), an annual three-day
event featuring 16 international squads
held in November or December.

46 Jean-Pierre Lescourret / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © architect tom wright

Explore Dubai
& Abu Dhabi

Neighborhoods at a Jumeirah. . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Day Trips
Glance . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 from Dubai. . . . . . . . . . 124
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
Deira. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Sharjah. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 97 Al-Ain. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 98 UAE East Coast. . . . . . . . . . 130
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 57 Sports & Activities. . . . . . . 102 Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . 134
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 58
Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 New Dubai. . . . . . . . . 104
Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . 61
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
Bur Dubai. . . . . . . . . . . 63 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . 109
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 112
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 72 Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . 115
Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . 75 Abu Dhabi . . . . . . . . . . 117

Sheikh Zayed Road Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
& Around. . . . . . . . . . . . 77 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . 122
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 123
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 86
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 87
Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . 89



48

Neighbourhoods
at a Glance

1 Deira (p50) sugary tea and haggle for bargains with trad-
ers whose families have tended the same
Deira feels like a cross between Cairo and shop for generations.
Karachi. Dusty, crowded and chaotic, it’s
a world away from the slick and sanitised 2 Bur Dubai (p63)
city piercing the clouds at the other end
of town. At the Dhow Wharfage, colourful Bustling Bur Dubai is home to the restored
wooden boats arrive from Iran with boxes historical quarters of Bastakia and Shinda-
of cuddly toys, televisions and batteries to gha, wonderful for late afternoon and evening
be sold at the nearby souqs. At these atmos- strolls. Bur Dubai Souq is just as lively as
pheric ancestors to today’s malls, you can sip the Deira souqs with the aesthetic plus of

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Jebel Ali
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Meydan
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