Travel Leisure

Wat Chaiwatthanaram,
a 17th-century Buddhist

temple in Ayutthaya.

ALPINE

AVA N T - G A R DE

102 TRAVEL+LE ISURE | NOVEMBER 2021

Switzerland’s serene Engadine Valley has become the unlikely
star of the European contemporary art world. Simon Willis discovers revolutionary

works in a fairy-tale setting. Photographs by Clara Tuma

Stairs, a hanging installation by Polish artist Monika Sosnowska, at the Muzeum Susch, in Switzerland’s Engadine Valley.
Opposite: The Inn River winds through the valley, past the village of S-chanf.
1 0 3T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E . C O M

A T FIRST GLANCE thevillage Miroslaw Balka’s
of Susch looks sleepy and Narcissussusch,
conservative. Sitting at the lower a stainless-steel
end of the Engadine Valley, in installation at the
southeastern Switzerland, it Muzeum Susch.
is little more than a cluster of
Alpine dwellings, unchanged for centuries and housing colored plastic, through which she explored her
just 200 people. Until recently the main draw for visitors own complex sexuality and ideas of female
was a clinic for people with burnout, who chose to go emancipation. Her pieces may have been
there, presumably, because it is so quiet. It seems, in other executed in the psychedelic colors of the 1960s
words, an unlikely home for one of Europe’s boldest new and 70s, but they resonate strongly in the era of
contemporary art museums. #MeToo.
But, in 2019, that is what the village became, when the
Muzeum Susch opened in two beautifully renovated Disused and derelict when Kulczyk bought
buildings on the banks of the Inn River—one a them, the monastery and brewery have been
12th-century monastery and the other a 19th-century given a dramatic overhaul by two young Swiss
brewery. The museum was founded by Grażyna Kulczyk, architects, Chasper Schmidlin and Lukas
a Polish entrepreneur who wanted a space to showcase Voellmy. On the monastery’s ground floor,
works by female artists she felt had been overlooked by formerly a stable, the alcoves where the horses
the art world. were kept have been turned into chapel-like
When I visited last December, the main event was an chambers for single works. Underfoot are the
exhibition devoted to Evelyne Axell, a Belgian painter who original cobblestones; a medieval stone horse
died in 1972 at age 37 and whose work shows off Kulczyk’s trough runs along one wall.
taste for radical expression. Axell studied with the
surrealist painter René Magritte and embraced Pop art Sensitive restoration in the monastery gives
before arriving at her signature style: joyfully erotic images way to thrilling reinvention in the brewery.
of women’s bodies, painted in oil or collaged out of Schmidlin and Voellmy took advantage of the
building’s large, industrial scale to create

104 TRAVEL+LE ISURE | NOVEMBER 2021

Clockwise from top left: soaring white cubes, the most spectacular of
Cristina Meregaglia, assistant which is in a space where the brewers once
manager at the Monica de stored the ice that kept their beer cool. They
Cardenas gallery, in Zuoz; also used explosives to blast new caverns out of
Richard Long’s Cardinal Points the mountainside, creating crepuscular
at Galerie Tschudi, in Zuoz; exhibition spaces whose rough, bare-rock walls
the Bernina Express, which have been stained orange by the ferrous spring
runs between Switzerland and water that brought monks and brewers to the
Italy; Pensiun Aldier, in Sent. village in the first place. The result is a building
that is partly a serene cultural temple, partly a
mountain lair worthy of a Bond villain.

M U Z E U M S U S C H I S J U S T the latest
addition to a growing network of contemporary
art galleries that, over the past two decades,
have turned the Engadine Valley into a dynamic
corner of the art world. The region has a
long artistic heritage, stretching back to the
19th-century Impressionist painter Giovanni
Segantini, whose perfectly preserved house and
atelier can be visited in the village of Maloja.

Contemporary art arrived in the valley in
1963 when Bruno Bischofberger, a Swiss dealer,
opened a gallery in the ritzy ski resort of
St. Moritz, about 25 miles from Susch. His
reasons were not mysterious: St. Moritz was,
and remains, a winter playground for the

1 0 5T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E . C O M

international jet set, and Bischofberger spotted an
opportunity to sell them some art while they were on
vacation. Among the names he represented were
New York painters whose careers blew up in the early
1980s, including Julian Schnabel, David Salle, and
Jean-Michel Basquiat.

Until the early 2000s, Bischofberger was the only
dealer in the area. But since then, more than 30 galleries
and museums have opened. These include blue-chip
establishments like Hauser & Wirth, which in 2018 added
an Alpine outpost to its operations in Europe, Asia, and the
United States. As Stefano Rabolli Pansera, the gallery’s
director in St. Moritz, explained as he showed me around
an exhibition of works by the late American painter Philip
Guston, Hauser & Wirth’s founders were drawn by the
mutually supportive ecology of the Engadine art world.
“When the Muzeum Susch opened it held an exhibition of
work by women that included many of our artists,” he said.

The art-lined halls A room at Pensiun
of Villa Flor, a Aldier with a wall
boutique hotel in carpet by Diego
S-chanf. Giacometti.

Among them was Monika Sosnowska, a Polish
artist whose giant sculpture Stairs makes for a
menacing mobile, hanging from the museum’s
ceiling like a dinosaur’s skeleton. “If you come
here as a collector,” Rabolli Pansera said, “you
can have an incredible (Continued on page 117)

Gallery-Hopping in the
Engadine Valley

Andy Warhol’s Muzeum Susch WHERE TO STAY Hauser & Wirth
Cows in the occupies a The St. Moritz branch of
kitchen of renovated Kulm Hotel St. Moritz this international gallery
Tarasp Castle, brewery and The Engadine’s grandest has a 4,400-square-
in Scuol. monastery. property has been in foot exhibition space.
business for more than hauserwirth.com.
Zurich 160 years. kulm.com;
doubles from $970. Monica de Cardenas
Bern An extension of the
ILLUSTRAT ION BY L ARA COSTAFREDA Pensiun Aldier Milan contemporary art
EngadineSWITZERLANDSuschThis small hotel in thegallery in Zuoz. monica
ValleySt. Moritzvillage of Sent exhibitsdecardenas.com.
works by Alberto
Giacometti. aldier.ch; Muzeum Susch
doubles from $159. Works by such contem-
porary women artists
Villa Flor as Monika Sosnowska
A charming seven-room and Joanna Rajkowska,
property in S-chanf, a in a handsomely
20-minute drive from restored monastery
St. Moritz. villaflor.ch; and brewery. muzeum
doubles from $320. susch.ch.

Waldhaus Sils Segantini Museum
This luxurious if A small gallery in
eccentric hotel in St. Moritz dedicated
Sils Maria has an idyllic to the landscapes of
forest setting. Giovanni Segantini.
waldhaus-sils.ch; segantini-museum.ch.
doubles from $585.
Tarasp Castle
WHAT TO DO Artist Not Vital’s gallery,
in an 11th-century castle
Galerie Tschudi in Scuol. notvital.com.
One of the region’s first
galleries occupies a Vito Schnabel Gallery
16th-century house in A St. Moritz venue for
Zuoz. galerie-tschudi.ch. contemporary art,
run by artist Julian
Galerie von Bartha Schnabel’s son. vito
This S-chanf gallery schnabel.com. — S.W.
is housed in a 15th-
century hay barn.
vonbartha.com.

1 0 7T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E . C O M

CatskilsCaling

Though the woods and mountains of this beloved patch of upstate New York are as wild as ever,
the food and lodgings have a welcome new sophistication. By Peter Ter zian. P hotographs by Tara Donne

108 TRAVEL+LE ISURE | NOVEMBER 2021

Kayaking on the
Delaware River
near the town
of Narrowsburg,
New York.
Opposite: A cabin at
Eastwind Hotel &
Bar, in Windham.

NE W YORK Albany

Windham

Big IndianC
Wilderness AreaA
T
SWoodstock
K
I
L
L
S

Hudson River
Narrowsburg

New York

H E V I L L A G E O F Catskill doesn’t seem Forest. The grand hotel was only a short ILLUSTRAT ION BY L ARA COSTAFREDA
particularly Catskilly. That’s partly because it’s distance from the edge of a cliff, providing
located on the Hudson River, several miles to guests with not only sublime views of the
the east of the mountains that give the region Hudson River but also the thrill of being
its name. Still, you can see those mountains, a just steps away from plummeting to their
bumpy band of grayish lilac, from the house of deaths. In one of Cole’s paintings, a figure
Thomas Cole, where my husband, Caleb, and I sits at the foot of the precipice, sketching
found ourselves one recent afternoon. the hotel’s white Federalist façade above.

The England-born Cole began painting Inside Cole’s house, which is now a
this part of upstate New York in the 1820s. museum, Caleb and I inspected his paint
A founding member of the Hudson River School kit and portable folding chair, and then
of artists, he’s best known for his romantic watched a video in which an actor read
renderings of the waterway. But he frequently
painted the Catskill mountains, which he
portrayed as lush, unpeopled, and suffused with
an almost otherworldly light.

Cole worked in the region around the time
that it started to attract tourists, many of whom
were drawn to the newly opened Catskill
Mountain House, which was situated in a pine
grove high up in what is now the Kaaterskill Wild

Bethel Woods, From left: thanks largely to protections instituted by
site of the 1969 Dover sole at New York State in the early 20th century. After
Woodstock Kenoza Hall’s visiting the painter’s home, Caleb and I ventured
music festival. French-inspired into Catskill Park, some 286,000 acres of high
restaurant; Juliette peaks and luxurious woodlands spread across
Hermant at her four counties. A couple of days later, we hiked
Narrowsburg shop, to the spot where the Catskill Mountain House
Maison Bergogne. once stood and saw the same view that dazzled
guests until the hotel was shuttered during
from the artist’s letters. Cole was troubled World War II. Caleb photographed graffiti that
by the recent arrival of the railroad and early visitors had carved at the cliff’s edge. We
the destruction of the Catskills’ forests had the site to ourselves, and the scene felt
by new industries, particularly tanning. primordial and peaceful.
“I cannot but express my sorrow that
the beauty of such landscapes is quickly W H E R E T H E T R AV E L E R S of the 1820s had
passing away,” he wrote. stately grandeur, we found blond wood and a
rain shower in Windham, a small town at the
It struck me that if Cole were alive base of a popular Greene County ski resort,
today, he would have to concede that and our home for the first two nights of our
the Catskills have retained their beauty, weeklong Catskills tour. Eastwind Hotel & Bar,
which opened in 2018, rides a wave of stylish
new Catskill hotels, luxury campsites, shops,

1 1 1T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E . C O M



Kaaterskill Falls, From top: A guest room
one of the best- at Urban Cowboy, a
known natural resort in the Big Indian
landmarks in Wilderness Area; a
the Catskills. dessert of melon,
cocoa, and vanilla
sorbet at the DeBruce
restaurant, near
Livingston Manor.

and restaurants. That wave began nearly a
decade ago but has gathered momentum during
the pandemic, as more and more urbanites seek
wide-open spaces. (This past summer has seen
the launch of two collections of sleek cabins:
Hutton Brickyards, in Kingston, and Piaule, in
Catskill. The rustic-glam Chatwal Lodge opens
in Bethel next spring.)

Eastwind’s most beguiling element is hidden
from view. Drive behind the renovated roadside
motor inn that makes up the main building and
you’ll find sleek wooden Scandinavian-style
glamping structures in a field strung with fairy
lights. Our oblong cabin was designed with
the craftiness of a Rubik’s Cube: a living room
opened onto an outdoor terrace; a utilitarian
bathroom and study were tucked under a
sleeping loft. In the evenings, Caleb and I sat
beside our private firepit and polished off the
complimentary s’mores kit, while the starry sky
and the distant sound of coyotes created the
illusion of being in the wild. In the morning,
we chomped through a breakfast basket of
hard-boiled eggs, warm croissants and rolls with
jam, and yogurt topped with granola, while the
dog that wandered over from the next-door
neighbor’s house gave us the reassuring feeling
of being kids camping in a backyard.

Rural Greene County is a three-hour journey
from New York City, meaning it doesn’t lure
as many weekend visitors as other parts of the
Catskills, and therefore feels quieter and more
remote. Driving on roads that twisted through
the steeply rising mountains, we passed split-rail
fences, stone churches, a lone woman walking
a Saint Bernard. We spent a sunny morning at
Mountain Top Arboretum, in Tannersville, where
we were serenaded by birdsong as we followed
meandering paths through shady spruce forests
and fields of wildflowers. Just down the road, we
stopped at Kaaterskill Falls, one of the area’s most
famous landmarks. The 260-foot-tall cascade has
gradually become a victim of its own popularity,
and I felt a little guilty wanting to visit when
there are other perfectly good waterfalls nearby.

1 1 3T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E . C O M

But on a weekday in low season, it was relatively Porter described Big Indian as the Picnic provisions
uncrowded, and from the viewing deck at the top “doughnut hole” of the Catskills; it’s close to at Main Street
of the falls, the scale and power of the scene was the intersection of three of the region’s four Farm, a grocery
enough to make us gasp. counties, and nothing is too far away. Indeed, a and sandwich shop
half-hour’s drive east brought us to Woodstock. in Livingston
It seemed only right to end a day of The town’s history as a center for 1960s Manor.
trail-walking with a feast of carbs. We ate at counterculture attracts tourists—even though
Prospect—the restaurant at Scribner’s Catskill the famous concert that shares its name took The home of
Lodge, a beautifully restored hotel in Hunter, place farther south, in Bethel—and the shops on 19th-century
another ski town—where the menu highlights main street still display tie-dye and peace signs landscape painter
the products of the region: smoked trout, left over from the days when Bob Dylan and Van Thomas Cole,
cheeses from Hudson Valley farms. But I Morrison walked its streets. in the village
decided to hew Italian with an appetizer of toast of Catskill.
piled with whipped ricotta and drizzled with But even the most stalwart hippie holdout
spicy Calabrian honey, and an entrée of silky, can’t escape time’s arrow, and newcomers are
savory cacio e pepe. creating subtle shifts. Over the course of a day’s
visit, we ate fried avocado tacos by a burbling
S C R O L L I N G T H R O U G H Urban Cowboy’s stream, courtesy of Tinker Taco Lab; Rosie
website made me wonder if the new hotel’s DeVito’s perfectly salty-sweet chocolate-chip
maximalist décor—antler chandeliers, eye- cookies, from her just-launched Overlook
popping Western-style patterns—would clash Bakery; a divine coconut charlotte cake made
with my subdued sensibilities. On Instagram, with the Filipino custard buko pandan at
the guests looked Gen-Z and playful, whereas I Harana Market, a new Asian grocery; and a
am middle-aged and reserved. But any anxiety thoroughly modern meal on the open terrace
was dispelled the moment Caleb and I walked of a veggie-forward restaurant named Silvia.
into the main lodge. I was handed a ginger- There we consumed dish after savory dish—an
infused mocktail, while the staff talked to Caleb heirloom tomato salad with za’atar, grilled
about his passion for birding and pointed out halloumi with charred peppers and zhoug—but
places where he might look for local species. it’s the bread I remember best. A hot and
magnificently fluffy pita was served alongside
Urban Cowboy sits in a hollow within the whipped butter and a pile of olives and radishes
Big Indian Wilderness Area, a large expanse of sprinkled with citrus zest, all of which felt so
protected forest. After checking in, we walked decadent it could have been dessert.
down the vast, sloping lawn to a stony brook
that pools into a swimming hole. I could feel the O N E A F T E R N O O N , we ambled around a
mountains rise around us, benign and protective.
field in Lake Superior State Park in Sullivan
That feeling of well-being continued
throughout our stay. Our suite, at the top of County, in the south (Continued on page 119)
a three-story chalet, had bedside sconces
made from snowshoes—a reminder that the
whole point of maximalism is that it’s fun. On
the porch of the main lodge, we ate a superb
meal of vegetarian small plates—slow-roasted
cabbage, beer-battered shiitake mushrooms,
and the best vegetable of all, french fries—to
a soundtrack of Digable Planets and Ol’ Dirty
Bastard. The convivial staff, whose first names
we quickly learned, treated us like new friends,
all while delivering on-point service.

Lyon Porter—who cofounded Urban Cowboy
with his wife, Jersey Banks—told me that he spent
much of his young adulthood in the Adirondacks
and wanted to re-create the rustic luxury of the
lodges there. “I want to see the Milky Way,” he
said. “I want bears.” I found the best testimony to
his and Banks’s vision on the faces of the other
guests, which registered pure contentment.

114 TRAVEL+LE ISURE | NOVEMBER 2021

Design Your Own Fall
Catskills Tour

WHERE TO STAY Seminary Hill
Orchard & Cidery
Eastwind Hotel & Bar At this tasting room
Scandi-chic A-frames outside Callicoon,
and cabins in the ski the small plates
town of Windham. are as impressive
eastwindny.com; as the view.
doubles from $279. seminaryhill.co.

Kenoza Hall Silvia
A gracefully restored Woodstock’s best
boardinghouse on restaurant focuses
quiet Kenoza Lake. on fresh local vege-
kenozahall.com; tables. silvia
doubles from $449. woodstockny.com;
entrées $26–$32.
Urban Cowboy
A stylish retreat in WHAT TO DO
the serene Big Indian
Wilderness Area. Bethel Woods
urbancowboy.com; Center for the Arts
doubles from $275. A museum of the
Woodstock festival
WHERE TO EAT on the site where it
was held. bethel
The DeBruce woodscenter.org.
Chef Eric Leveillee
dreams up inventive Outside Institute
dishes at this restau- Laura Chávez
rant and hotel near Silverman leads
Livingston Manor. nature walks in the
thedebruce.com; region. theoutside
tasting menu $175. institute.org.

Harana Market Thomas Cole
This Asian market in National Historic Site
Woodstock has a The Catskill home of
rotating to-go menu the Hudson River
of Filipino dishes. School painter.
haranamarket.com. thomascole.org.

Main Street Farm WHERE TO SHOP
Great sandwiches
and gourmet Homestedt
provisions in This Livingston
Livingston Manor. Manor store has
mainstreetfarm.com. stylish goods for
indoors and out.
Overlook Bakery homestedt.com.
Woodstock’s new
bakery serves heav- Maison Bergogne
enly cakes, bars, and A Narrowsburg
cookies. overlook antiques shop that
bakery.com. feels like a cabinet
of curiosities. maison
Prospect bergogne.com.
Order the homemade
pasta at the restau- One Grand Books
rant of Scribner’s Famous creatives
Catskill Lodge. curate the stock at
scribnersprospect. this Narrowsburg
com; entrées store. onegrand
$21–$65. books.com. — P.T.

PROMOTION

Check-In
EVENTS + PROMOTIONS + OFFERS

For the Story Makers

By the people bold enough to go first, for the people
longing to go next. Write your next chapter with
Travel + Leisure Club, where members find preferred
pricing on curated itineraries and exclusive experiences.
Try it free for 30 days.
TravelAndLeisure.com/Club

Introducing Travel with Purpose Travel + Leisure

This year, Travel + Leisure celebrated a landmark Travel with Purpose
milestone—50 years of transformational experiences and
elevated editorial that has inspired over 4 billion trips. The
act of traveling is a thoughtful experience meant to engage
and enlighten. With that in mind, we launch the inaugural

Travel with Purpose e-booklet. Go beyond traditional
travel intentions and explore the array of adventures that
await you—courtesy of Travel + Leisure travel partners.

TravelAndLeisure.com/check-in

Elevate Your Stay with Mississippi’s
Most Unique Lodging

In Mississippi, you’ll find accommodations that are unique
and inspiring, whether you’re planning an adventure
outdoors or looking for refined and singular city lodging.
Mississippi. Wanderers welcome.
Mississippi.org/uniquelodging

TO E XPLORE MORE, V ISI T TRAVEL ANDLE ISURE.C OM/CHECK-IN

(Switzerland, continued from page 106) forces, the inhabitants burned them has paintings and screen prints by
to the ground and fled into the Andy Warhol, who was represented
long weekend. There is nowhere else mountains. All that was left behind by Bruno Bischofberger at his gallery
like this in the Alps.” was a series of stone lookout towers, up the street. (Today Bischofberger’s
and when the villagers came back they building is occupied by a different
Other arresting spaces have used those ruins as the base for new gallery run by Vito Schnabel, son of
opened in villages farther down the buildings. On the ground floor of Julian.) The Waldhaus Sils, in Sils
valley. Perched on a mountainside Galerie Tschudi, the wall of one Maria, displays two small works
in Scuol is Tarasp Castle, a grand, such tower, which dates back to 1304, by Gerhard Richter, in which the
11th-century fortification now run is still visible. Under visitors’ feet are artist painted over photographs
as a bastion of contemporary art by the stones that once covered the of Alpine landscapes. Richter,
the eccentric Swiss sculptor, curator, medieval street. who has stayed at the Waldhaus
and impresario Not Vital. More frequently over the years, has also
intimate are the galleries occupying Until the art dealer Elsbeth Bisig painted the hotel itself. Perched
traditional Engadine farmhouses Tschudi moved in, the farmhouse still precipitously on a mountainside,
between St. Moritz and Susch. At the functioned as it always had: there was it is reputed to be one of the
Monica de Cardenas gallery, in the straw on the floor and chickens inspirations for Wes Anderson’s
village of Zuoz, the art is exhibited running around. “The stench was Grand Budapest Hotel.
in a warren of downstairs rooms incredible,” Tschudi told me. On the
originally designed to accommodate day I visited, a shallow well in the More intimate is the Villa Flor,
cattle, whose bodies, the story goes, floor of the basement, once used for in the village of S-chanf. The
helped warm the building. At Galerie storing manure, was now occupied by hotel, which has seven rooms and
von Bartha, in the village of S-chanf, a sculpture by South African artist dates back to 1904, is owned and run
an exhibition space has been built Kemang Wa Lehulere. It included a by Ladina Florineth. She was brought
inside an immense old hay barn car tire, a school chair, and a up in the Engadine, where her
where farmhands used to sleep porcelain dog. father worked as a mountain guide
during the summer. and was friendly with Bruno
Upstairs, Tschudi was installing a Bischofberger. It was through
Perhaps the best of these is series of works by Bethan Huws, a Bischofberger that Florineth got to
Galerie Tschudi, also in Zuoz, which Welsh sculptor and videographer, know artists like Schnabel, whom she
opened in 2002 and became the first including a calming piece of video art, taught to ski and who has been a
gallery of its kind in the region. Much Écoute. The title, which means “listen” regular guest at her hotel since it
of the building dates back to the in French, is a multilingual pun: the opened in 2009.
16th century, but its foundations are film shows coots paddling and
several hundred years older. In 1499, squawking on a misty pond. On the Several years ago a friend of
an army from Austria invaded this floor below were two pieces made of Florineth’s, who runs a gallery in
part of Switzerland, and rather than neon tubes, also by Huws. Their Germany, asked if she’d like to
leave their villages to the foreign bright yellows and blues popped collaborate on a small exhibition.
against the rough stone of the Since then she has invited artists and
14th-century tower. As at the Muzeum gallerists to show at the hotel. When
Susch, the architecture of the gallery I visited, the corridors were lined
provides an ancient backdrop that with paintings by Marc-Antoine
gives new work extra impact. Fehr, a Swiss artist who specializes
in loosely painted, enigmatic
A S T H E E N G A D I N E art world has landscapes. The pictures, some
grown, hotels have gotten in on the of which were propped up on
act. Some of the region’s grandes shelves alongside piles of art books,
dames feature work by famous add to the hotel’s atmosphere of
guests. The Kulm Hotel St. Moritz casual sophistication.

Content in this issue was produced with assistance from Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Not all the art fits in quite so
Anantara; Campfire Ranch; Center for Architecture Sarasota; Colorado Carbon Fund; The easily. Villa Flor also features
Dewberry Charleston; Eastwind Hotel and Bar; Eleven Experience; Elyton Hotel, Autograph Florineth’s own collection, which
Collection; Engadin St. Moritz Tourismus; Foster Supply Hospitality; Four Seasons Resort includes a huge abstract canvas by
and Residences Anguilla; Hotel Waldhaus Sils; Hud Hud Travels; Kenoza Hall; Kulm Hotel Julian Schnabel that hangs in her
St. Moritz; Loy Pela Voyages; Malliouhana, Auberge Resorts Collection; Pensiun Aldier; Roar office on the ground floor. It is so big
Africa; Urban Cowboy; and Villa Flor. that she had to cut a hole in the
ceiling to accommodate it.

1 17T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E . C O M

(Sarasota, continued from page 95) staff. The most stunning space of all boundaries between indoors
is his small conference room, which and out. The couple use both
Russell and I had joined Muffi has a classic wall-size window that homes to work and entertain in,
and her mother, Shirley, for lunch looks out at the Whitaker Bayou, its but live elsewhere and treat the
at the home of Carl Abbott, the filtered sunlight in constant flux. spaces more as works of art.
youngest member of the Sarasota
School. He studied under Rudolph “All I had to do,” Abbott told me, Essner, who moved from New
at Yale, and has spent his career “was open the house up.” Jersey about a dozen years ago, is
designing buildings that celebrate now the board chair of Architecture
the landscape. At 85, Abbott is still B Y T H E E N D of my stay, I felt Sarasota. She’s excited about the
working today, and on our visit, he opened up as well. Who had any future of Modernist tourism, and
scampered around his wooded idea this quiet and pleasant little city wants to make sure that important
property with the energy of a teen. could offer so much stimulation? homes are preserved in an age
“Many people think of Sarasota as when teardowns are the norm. “We
Abbott’s renovated house—once Camelot,” Edwards had told me on want people to come who love
a small, dark cottage built for John Friday night, before Asolo Rep’s Modernism,” she said.
Ringling’s banker in 1925—is now sold-out production of the musical
a playful mash-up of architectural of the same name on the steps of After my marathon weekend, I
styles and periods, with a plein-air the theater. Live theater was one of finally had time to relax back at
yoga studio on the grounds and a the experiences I had missed most the Umbrella House. And so, in the
state-of-the-art open office for his during the pandemic. Asolo Rep’s tradition of the neighborhood, where
Camelot was my first show in a year, some residents used to wander from
and a thrill. one visionary home to another in
bathrobes with martinis in hand, I
The day of my departure, I ran mixed a drink, threw off my white
into Anne Essner, who, with her terry-cloth robe, and dove into the
husband, Bob, owns the Umbrella swimming pool. I’m not nearly as
House as well as another small fit, driven, or disciplined as the
residence in Lido Shores. The unrelenting young visionaries who
Harkavy House was completed made this town an architectural
by Rudolph in 1958, with sliding lodestar. But I’m a believer.
shoji-style doors and other
architectural details that blur the I landed in the perfect pool with
a perfectly ungainly splash.

STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT, AND CIRCULATION 1166 Ave. of the Americas, 9th floor, New York, NY 10036; GAMCO Asset Management Inc., Attn: Douglas
R. Jamieson, One Corporate Center, Rye, NY 10580; Charles Schwab Investment Management Inc., Attn:
1. Publication Title: Travel + Leisure. 2. Publication Number: 00-856460. 3. Filing date: October 1, 2021. Jonathan De St Paer, 211 Main St., San Francisco, CA 94105; Stewart Capital Advisors LLC, Attn: Malcolm
4. Issue Frequency: Monthly. 5. Number of Issues Published Annually: 12. 6. Annual Subscription Price: Polley, 800 Philadelphia St., Indiana, PA 15701; PPM America, Inc., Attn: Thomas Barrus, 225 Wacker Dr.,
$45. 7. Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: 1716 Locust St., Des Moines, IA 50309. Suite 1200, Chicago, IL 60606. Through some of the nominees listed above, the E.T. Meredith and Bohen
8. Complete Mailing Address of Headquarters or General Business Office of Publisher: 1716 Locust St., families and family foundations own, directly or beneficially, approximately 12 percent of the issued and
Des Moines, IA 50309. 9. Full Name and Complete Mailing Address of the Publisher, Editor & Managing outstanding stock of the corporation. Each nominee listed above holds stock for one or more stockholders.
Editor: Publisher: Giulio Capua, 225 Liberty St., New York, NY 10281; Editor: Jacqueline Gifford, 225 Liberty 11. Known Bondholders, Mortgages, and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1 Percent or More
St., New York, NY 10281; Managing Editor: LaToya Valmont, 225 Liberty St., New York, NY 10281. 10. Owner: of Total amount of Bonds, Mortgages, or Securities: None. 12. Tax Status: Not applicable. 13. Publication
Travel + Leisure Co., 6277 Sea Harbor Dr., Orlando, FL 32821, and Meredith Corporation, 1716 Locust Title: Travel + Leisure. 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: September 2021. 15. Extent and Nature
St., Des Moines, IA 50309. The names and addresses of all Travel + Leisure Holdco stockholders owning of Circulation: Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: a. Total number of copies (Net
1 percent or more of the total amount of stock: The Vanguard Group, Inc., 100 Vanguard Blvd. V26, Malvern, press run): 918,282. b. Legitimate Paid and/or Requested Distribution (By Mail and Outside the Mail):
PA 19355; BlackRock Fund Advisors, 400 Howard St., San Francisco, CA 94105; Invesco Advisers, Inc., (1) Outside-County Paid/Requested Mail Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541: 868,340. (2) In-County Paid/
2 Peachtree Pointe, 1555 Peachtree St., N.E., #1800, Atlanta, GA 30309; Iridian Asset Management, LLC, Requested Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541: 0. (3) Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors,
276 Post Rd. W., Westport, CT 06880; Boston Partners Global Investors, Inc., 100 Drakes Landing Rd., #360, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS: 6,885. (4) Requested Copies Distributed by Other
Greenbrae, CA 94904; LSV Asset Management, 155 N. Wacker Dr., #4600, Chicago, IL 60606; State Street Mail Classes Through the USPS: 0. c. Total Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 875,225. d. Nonrequested
Global Advisors (SSgA), One Iron St., Boston, MA 02210; Senvest Management, LLC, 540 Madison Ave., 32nd Distribution (by Mail and Outside the Mail): (1) Outside-County Nonrequested Copies Stated on PS Form
floor, New York, NY 10022; Minot Capital, LLC, Historic Bowman House, 2229 Broadway St., Boulder, CO 3541: 18,083. (2) In-County Nonrequested Copies Included on PS Form 3541: 0. (3) Nonrequested Copies
80302; TIAA-CREF Investment Management, LLC, 730 Third Ave., 4th floor, New York, NY 10017; Geode Distributed Through the USPS by Other Classes of Mail: 0. (4) Nonrequested Copies Distributed Outside
Capital Management, LLC, 100 Summer St., 12th floor, Boston, MA 02110; Principal Global Investors, LLC, the Mail: 2,395. e. Total Nonrequested Distribution: 20,478. f. Total Distribution: 895,703. g. Copies Not
801 Grand Ave., Des Moines, IA 50309; Nuveen Asset Management, LLC, 333 W. Wacker Dr., Chicago, Distributed: 22,579. h. Total: 918,282. i. Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 97.71%. No. of Copies
IL 60606; CapitalatWork - Foyer Group (Belgium), Ave. de la Couronne, 153, Brussels, Belgium, 1050; of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: a. Total Number of Copies (Net Press Run): 915,000.
Swedbank Robur Fonder AB (Funds), Malmskillnadsgatan 32, Stockholm, Sweden, 105 34; Norges Bank b. Legitimate Paid and/or Requested Distribution (By Mail and Outside the Mail): (1) Outside-County Paid/
Investment Management (Norway) Bankplassen 2, Oslo, Norway, 0151; Goldman Sachs Asset Management, Requested Mail Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541: 877,170. (2) In-County Paid/Requested Subscriptions
LP (U.S.), 2502 N. Rocky Point Dr., #500, Tampa, FL 33607; Dimensional Fund Advisors, LP (U.S.), Stated on PS Form 3541: 0. (3) Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and
Dimensional Place, 6300 Bee Cave Rd., Building One, Austin, TX 78746; WEDGE Capital Management, LLP, Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS: 4,220. (4) Requested Copies Distributed by Other Mail Classes
301 S. College St., #3800, Charlotte, NC 28202; Columbia Threadneedle Investments (U.S.), 225 Franklin St., Through the USPS: 0. c. Total Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 881,390. d. Nonrequested Distribution
31st & 32nd floors, Boston, MA 02110. The names and addresses of all Meredith Corporation stockholders (by Mail and Outside the Mail): (1) Outside-County Nonrequested Copies Stated on PS Form 3541: 10,600.
owning 1 percent or more of the total amount of stock: BlackRock Fund Advisors, Attn: Spencer Fleming, (2) In-County Nonrequested Copies Included on PS Form 3541: 0. (3) Nonrequested Copies Distributed
400 Howard St., San Francisco, CA 94105; The Vanguard Group Inc., Attn: Christine M. Buchanan, PO Through the USPS by Other Classes of Mail: 0. (4) Nonrequested Copies Distributed Outside the Mail: 1,100.
Box 2600, Valley Forge, PA 19482; Ariel Investments LLC, Attn: Jim Prescott, 200 E. Randolph St., Suite e. Total Nonrequested Distribution: 11,700. f. Total Distribution: 893,090. g. Copies Not Distributed: 21,910.
2900, Chicago, IL 60601; Select Equity Group LP, James R. Berman, 380 Lafayette St., 6th floor, New York, h. Total: 915,000. i. Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 98.69%. 16. Not applicable. 17. Publication
NY 10003; Dimensional Fund Advisors LP, Attn: Selwyn Notelovitz, 6300 Bee Cave Rd., Building One, of Statement of Ownership for a Requester Publication is required and will be printed in the November 2021
Austin, TX 78746; Healthcare of Ontario Pension Plan, Attn: Mary Abbott, 1 York St., Suite 1900, Toronto, issue of this publication. 18. Signature and title of editor, publisher, business manager, or owner: Chris Susil,
ON M5J 06B; State Street Global Advisors (SSgA), Attn: Christopher Micah Baker, Channel Center, 1 Iron VP/Planning & Analysis. Date: September 20, 2021. I certify that all information furnished on this form is
St., Boston, MA 02210; Norges Bank Investment Management, Attn: Stanislav Boiadjiev, Bankplassen true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or
2, PO Box 1179 Sentrum, Oslo, Norway, Q8 0107; Geode Capital Management LLC, Attn: Jeffrey Miller, who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions (including
100 Summer St., 12th floor, Boston, MA 02110; Northern Trust Investments Inc. (Investment Management), fines and imprisonment) and/or civil sanctions (including civil penalties).
Attn: Robert P. Browne, 50 S. LaSalle St., Chicago, IL 60603; D. E. Shaw & Co. LP, Attn: Nathan Thomas,

118 TRAVEL+LE ISURE | NOVEMBER 2021

(Catskills, continued from page 114) Like Silverman, Aaron Hicklin O U R J O U R N E Y E N D E D at Kenoza
was inspired by early memories—in Hall, a converted early-20th-century
of the Catskills region. We were his case, of visits to small-town inn with a grand lawn sweeping
accompanied by Laura Chávez bookstores in his native England. down to a lake. We sat by the water
Silverman, a self-taught naturalist He opened One Grand Books, in in Adirondack chairs and read; in
who created the Outside Institute Narrowsburg, where the Delaware the morning, Caleb took out one of
in 2017. Silverman is one of the River divides New York State from the hotel’s kayaks to explore. After
many newcomers who have opened Pennsylvania. A former magazine a classically French dinner on the
businesses, driven by the wish to editor, Hicklin asks well-known terrace, we followed a nature trail
contribute to a place they’ve come to figures—writer George Saunders, behind the property as dusk fell,
love. She moved to the area in 2009 pop musician Phoebe Bridgers—to startling a family of deer, who stared
after two decades in New York City, each recommend 10 books, and the at us with curiosity for a moment
she told us, because it reminded her shelves are organized around their before bolting. The sight made my
of the forests of northern California, picks. “It’s like a very eclectic dinner heart race.
where she grew up. The more she party,” he explains, “where Tilda
learned about Catskills flora and Swinton is sitting next to Ta-Nehisi On our last evening, we drove
fauna, the more she was eager to Coates, who is sitting next to Laurie to the DeBruce, Kenoza Hall’s sister
share her knowledge with transplants Anderson.” Hicklin has just opened property, located on a quiet country
like herself. “I think people have an a second branch of the shop in the road outside Livingston Manor.
urge to go outside,” she said. “But town of Livingston Manor. The hotel houses one of the best
they either don’t know where to go, restaurants in the Catskills, also
or, if they get outside, they aren’t sure For Chicagoans Doug Doetsch and called the DeBruce, and we sat on the
what they’re seeing.” Susan Manning, the opening of their front porch, journeying through the
new Seminary Hill Orchard & Cidery, nine-course tasting menu as twilight
Silverman now leads nature in Callicoon, is a homecoming: they descended. The meal was what chef
walks with an emphasis on foraging, are descended from generations of Eric Leveillee called “a weird trip
as well as workshops on cooking Callicoon families, and wanted to inside my brain”: a purée of ramps,
with wild plants and making natural give back to the region. The result aerated cheddar, and peas; arancini
cosmetics. Dressed in a khaki is a handsome modern building, filled with eel; langoustine wrapped
jumpsuit and a broad-brimmed hat, partially made with wood from the in wild chamomile flowers.
her silver hair in a long braid, she now-demolished Tappan Zee Bridge,
explained how hickory bark can be with spectacular views overlooking Clad in Converse high-tops,
toasted and simmered with sugar to an orchard overlooking the Delaware our server, Connor Mikita, moved
make syrup. She cut open a gall to River Valley. with an easy grace. We struck up a
show us the wasp larvae inside. She conversation with him, and he told us
told us how to identify conifers by Down the road, the cidery’s that he was the drummer in a group
their needles: “If it hurts your hand, Boarding House occupies two called the Nude Party. Mikita and
it’s a spruce.” classic clapboard buildings, a former his bandmates left North Carolina in
hospital and a doctor’s office that 2018 and lived in a house owned by
Doetsch and Manning have turned their manager in Livingston Manor.
into an enchanting place to tuck The hiatus from touring caused by
in after an evening of cider-fueled the pandemic meant that they had
revelry. Tom and Anna Roberts of spent a full four seasons there. Sure
the Livingston Manor design team enough, he had fallen in love with
Homestedt styled the interiors the Catskills.
with a simple Shaker aesthetic: a
soothing palette of grays and olives, “I would definitely like to stay
wooden accents, natural linens, in and around this area,” he said.
and old prints from a book about “Historically, it’s a special place. If you
New York apples. spend time here, you’ll feel a deep
connection to the world.”

Travel + Leisure (ISSN 0041-2007) November 2021, Vol. 51, No. 11, is published monthly by TI Inc. Affluent Media Group, a subsidiary of Meredith Corporation, Principal Office: 225 Liberty
St., New York, NY 10281-1008. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 507.1.5.2.) Non-Postal and Military
Facilities: Send address corrections to Travel + Leisure, PO Box 37508, Boone, IA 50037-0508. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement #40069223. BN #129480364RT. Copyright
©2021 TI Inc. Affluent Media Group, a subsidiary of Meredith Corporation. All Rights Reserved. Printed in the U.S.A. Customer Service and Subscriptions For 24/7 service, please use our
website: www.travelandleisure.com/myaccount. You can also call 800-888-8728 or write to Travel + Leisure, PO Box 37508, Boone, IA 50037-0508. Reproduction in whole or in part
without written permission is strictly prohibited. Your bank may provide updates to the card information we have on file. You may opt out of this service at any time. Member of the
Alliance for Audited Media. Mailing List We may make a portion of our mailing list available to reputable firms. If you prefer we not include your name, please call or write us at the
customer service information above. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, artwork, or other material.
To order back issues, call 800-270-3053. To order article reprints of 500 or more, call 212-221-9595.

1 1 9T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E . C O M

“AT T H E B E G I N N I N G O F 2 0 2 0, I jumped at the

opportunity to join some friends on a three-week trip to

YOUR BEST Antarctica. In Port Lockroy—a former World War II British Marko Dimitrijević
SHOT military station and research center on Goudier Island—I was an entrant in our
found myself picturing how difficult and lonely life must have ongoing Photo of the

been for the workers stationed there in the 1940s and 50s. Day contest. Submit
your best pictures at
I wanted to re-create the isolated feeling at the base. So I took a step back to capture the
travelandleisure.
original desk, the equipment, and the view beyond—a reminder that they were in an com/photos/photo-

endless white desert, with no other life around except for a waddle of Adélie penguins.” of-the-day for the
chance to be
—  R E AD ER MAR KO DIMI TRIJ EV IĆ O N HI S P HOTO G RAPH , S HOT W I TH A S ONY A7 R I V,
featured on this page
JANUARY 2020 in a future issue.

120 TRAVEL+LE ISURE | NOVEMBER 2021

The best children’s
stories always take
place in magical forests.

Giant stone outcroppings, waterfalls, a swinging river bridge, and an
old abandoned cabin for good measure. This is no fairy tale. It’s just the
first stop on your next Mississippi adventure. Plan now for a lifetime of
memories at VisitMississippi.org/Wander.
#WanderMS #VisitMSResponsibly

Tishomingo State Park | Tishomingo, Mississippi