TANA Patrika - June 2020

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My Journey into the Anza-Borrego Desert

Amar Veluri
Desert flowers were illuminated in the afternoon sun as my Jeep

Wrangler descended the mountain slopes. A surreal window

opened in front of me with a view of the Anza-Borrego desert

valley. Far into the horizon I saw the shimmering Salton Sea. My

excitement grew as I descended further. I was looking forward to

this solo desert adventure. So much to see and learn in so little

time!

A park ranger at the Anza-Borrego spotted signs to the Ocotillo Ranger Sta-
Desert State Park Visitors Center cau- tion and got off the gravely Quarry Road.
tioned me that I might not have enough As the road got closer to the Ranger sta-
time left in the day to make a trip to the tion, I took a right to continue on the
Pumpkin Patch and suggested that I Quarry Road until it became the Shell
should visit Fonts Point instead and call Reef Expressway. With a high-clearance
it a day. She said that the sun would get four-by-four vehicle, driving on the Shell
behind the mountains in no time and then Reef Expressway was a breeze. After
it would be hard for me to find my way traveling on the loose sands for a few
back from the middle of the desert. The miles, I turned left on the East Bank
Pumpkin Patch was almost 11 miles off- Wash. After a mile or so, I took a right on
road into the desert, whereas Fonts Point the Pumpkin Patch Trail. This trail was
was four miles. I thanked her for the ad- the most treacherous. In addition, this was
vice and jumped into my Wrangler and my first time four-wheeling in a desert,
accelerated toward Ocotillo Wells. I was and with cell phone signals long lost, I
desperate to get to the Pumpkin Patch that could feel the adrenaline rush. There were
evening because I was supposed to head times when the jeep leaned sideways, al-
back to San Diego the next morning, and most ready to tumble, and then there were
I knew it would be hard to find another times when all I could see was the hood
opportunity like this. I reserved Fonts of the jeep and nothing else, making it
Point for sunrise because I heard it offers difficult to see, a steep slope or a turn
better views then. ahead. After a couple of miles of relent-
less jolts, I spotted some spherical rocks.
It was 5:30 p.m. Highway 78 was I was so excited, but that was not it. False
clear. A field of Ocotillo plants were in alarm!
full bloom with red tubular flowers. I

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A wild desert hare that was watch- After several minutes of clicking, I real-
ing me gyrating in the mounds sprinted ized the sun was moving closer to the
ahead as my jeep made a loud cranking mountains. I jumped back into the jeep
noise. A chopper whirred in the sky, sur- and zoomed past the fence, on my way
facing memories of Hollywood dramas to another wild ride. By the time I hit the
and SOS signs. After a few more turbu- Shell Reef Expressway, the sun had al-
lences, I saw a fence encompassing a ready set. Far to the west I saw a purple
carefully preserved field of rocks that re- cloud resembling a phoenix rising from
sembled harvest-ready pumpkins battered the red western skies. A couple more
with red dust. The evening sunlight made hares swooshed behind me, disrupting the
the rocks look vibrant, and the oval- delicate wave formations in the sands. My
jeep rode into the twilight.
shaped shadows of the rocks added
an excellent contrast. I barely parked the The sound of my 2 a.m. alarm woke
jeep and ran toward the rock formations. me up. I dragged myself from the bed to
My camera fluttered with thirst captur- get ready for another adventure, this time
ing photos from several perspectives, the astrophotography expedition.
sometimes hiding the fence to get a natu-
ral view, sometimes getting a view of the ***
field with the backdrop of a mound. I I headed into the darkness as the
wondered how a small shell or a dead bug lights from the Borrego Springs Resort
could stick to a few sand crystals, roll in and Spa flickered in my rearview mirror.
the wind picking up more sand crystals, The landscape was filled with silhouettes
and eventually snowball into such round of palm trees and rugged mountains,
rocks. I wondered how many years in shimmering all the light the canopy of
making these rocks might have been.

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stars and galaxies could shower. Sud- balls! With sweaty palms I switched to
denly my eyes caught something slither- high beam only to have a shiver run down
ing in front of the jeep. I came to a my spine. A pack of five or six coyotes,
screeching halt, causing a few bushes on staring straight at me, appeared as if they
the side of the road to rustle. Perhaps the were engaged in a ritual. Involuntarily I
sound scared off a few nocturnal animals? slammed the door and pressed hard on
A long snake with black and white the gas pedal, causing them to disperse
patches was enjoying the openness and and vanish into the bushes. I couldn’t find
warmth of the tar road. I stepped out, got a better spot than this, so I was determined
a bit closer to it, and watched as it froze, to hold my ground. With my heart pound-
awaiting its next move. It appeared to be ing in my chest, I slowly got out of the
a California kingsnake. vehicle, deployed my tripod and camera,
and positioned my ultra-wide angel lens
It was 2:15 a.m., and I knew the to the southeast corner of the sky. As soon
Galactic Center of the Milky Way was as I turned off the headlights and shut the
about to rise. I got back into the jeep and door, there was a momentary quietness
drove toward the southeast corner of the followed by time traveling into the past.
park, away from the lights. After travel- The jeep and camera disappeared in the
ing for over 15 miles, I exited onto a nar- darkness, and I was standing in the world
row desert wash. I stopped the jeep and of the indigenous civilizations of the
was about to get out, but something didn’t Americas.
seem right. I squinted into the darkness
and noticed several pairs of glowing

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A celestial veil studded with dia- to the earth, powerful semen that fertil-
monds, and dark embroidery stretched ize the universe, a portal to the world of
across the canopy of heavens. Shooting the gods, a wall that separates waters from
stars pierced through the skies as if they lands, or even a trail of spilled milk from
were carrying messages from constella- the breasts of a great goddess. The vibrant
tion to constellation. It was the first time night skies they witnessed during their
I saw a complete arc of the Milky Way, time and all the variations through the
with clearly visible glow from the Ga- seasons and celestial events must have
lactic Center. The sight was so mystical offered them endless material to study
that I wished the Milky Way remained and make sense of their existence and to
enigmatic and beyond science. No won- prophesy for future generations.
der the Olmecs, Mayans, Aztecs, Incas,
and several other civilizations spent so After a few minutes of meditation, I
much time contemplating unfettered resumed shooting amazing views of the
views of the night sky, engaging them- Milky Way, packed up my gear and
selves in building monuments and hav- headed back to the resort. As my thoughts
ing ceremonies to appease the celestial swirled, I wondered what would happen
gods. Their rituals, infused with halluci- if all the scientific discoveries about the
nogenic herbs, must have made them celestial objects were incorrect. What if
travel to the edges of their imaginations the Milky Way was an eternal river that
and weave stories to ingrain the Milky flowed from the heavens and carried all
Way into their beliefs—be it an exten- the great souls to salvation? Could this
sion of the great rivers of the Amazonas version of existence have possibly given
or the Ganges, a pathway for the departed us a greater purpose in life? Could it have
souls, an anaconda dragging a boat in the saved incubators of precious civilizations
milk river that brought the first humans from being annihilated in the name of
adventure, supremacy of religion, and

67 pHé 2020 ‘êHê|üÁ‹ø£

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thirst for gold. Could it have given us I drove around the famous Christmas
optimism and strength to continue to
build upon the stories, symbols, and Circle a couple of times and continued
imaginations of our ancient civilizations
since the dawn of consciousness? Could on Highway S22. It was a picture-perfect
it have saved us from falling prey to the
crumbling cycle of evolution in which we day and the desert flaunted colors of gold
disregard the fact that we are all cut out
from the same genetic fabric, and con- and copper. After a few miles of driving,
tinue to be divided in the name of lands,
colors, races, riches, and religions sim- I spotted a sign to Fonts Point, leading to
ply to uphold our mortal self-interests and
pitifully make the best of the scraps left a desert wash road. After four miles of
behind by previous intelligence on this
planet to become another sediment of a cruising through the loose sands, I arrived
failed cause that will eventually be car-
bon dated and made specimens of intel- at a small parking area. As I kept walk-
lectual curiosity for future generations.
ing up the hill, I saw a couple of people
Early in the morning I checked out
of the resort and got back on the road. To looking at something beyond the hill in
properly bid farewell to Borrego Springs,
awe. My eagerness grew, and I picked up

my pace. As I ascended the hill, I saw

nothing but sky. A few more steps and

there it was! A steep canyon into the bad-

lands. This surreal landscape of creases

and wrinkles was a playground for the

morning sunlight.

After spending some time walking

on the slopes and internalizing all the

great views, I reluctantly drove back up

to the mountains, wondering whether the

world I last saw was still intact. b

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