Fashion History Magazine Nineteenth Century

The Directoire
& Empire
Periods

******************************** The Directoire Period *********************************
The Directoire Period (1790-1800) consisted of the several power struggles over France that occurred
during the French Revolution, beginning when aristocracy and excess were questioned by the 3rd Estate
peoples, the commoners. The ‘Old Regime’ way of dress was abolished following the Estates General
meeting of 1789, and the commoners were temporarily sated. In 1792, rioters overthrew the monarchy and
established the First French Republic, demonstrating they were no longer satisfied. The social, political, and
economical problems facing the country in this time of uncertainty, led France into a dark period of time.
Following French King, Louis XVI’s trial and execution in 1793, revolutionary spirits were high. So much
so, that the Jacobins, radical, violent revolutionists, followed a similar path to power. By 1794, they too
were overthrown and their leader executed by a 5-man-ensemble known as the ‘Directoire’ (The Directory).
The Directoire restored peace to some extent, as the passion for revolution had calmed for a time.
These revolutionary attitudes and general European conflict contributed to the dress of the time.
Frenchmen wore red, white and blue to signify their passion for revolt, aristocratic ornamentation on
garments grew out of style, technological developments made clothing more accessible, and increased trade
spread ideas globally.
********************************* The Empire Period ***********************************
The Empire period Follows the Directoire period and it continues a lot of the fashion styles that had
developed during that time. The Empire period is from 1800-1810 when Napoleon took control. During
this time, European dress took a lot of influnce and inspiration from other cultures such as the First Nations,
Egyptians, and a lot of Ancient Romand and Greek styles. Within this period, techonology started to be
revolutionized, especially with Joseph Marie Jacquard who had developed an automatic loom that can
create unique designs in textiles.

LLeess IMnecrrovyeialbleluesseest c. 1790

In the early 1790’s, French peoples utilized fashion statements as a form of protest. These
trends would begin to question our understanding of fit, modesty, and extravagance. Women’s
Merveilleuse dresses were simplified pre-existing styles, emulating those from Rome’s ‘Golden
Age,’ with fabrics becoming increasingly sheer for both comfort and aesthetics; the French
have always been romantics. The Merveilleuse woman wears St.Esprit feathers in her hair,

which she has put up in ringlets at the back, and
would often be found wearing Greek & Roman
influenced sandals with straps reaching her
shins. She wears a coloured shawl, as was
typical for the average French woman.

Incroyable men, however, examined and
riffed off their common silhouettes,
experimenting also with mismatched
colours. Often, their coats might
have had a loose cut in the shoulders.
Here, we see a thigh-length coat
with a very deep and wide lapel,
worn atop a waistcoat and a tall-
collared chemise. His breeches
are extremely tight, ending
below his knees, and his
cravat reaches his chin. He
wears a Bicorne hat, which
when removed could be
folded flat and carried under
his arm.

Together, these ‘incredibles’ and
‘marvelous ones’ commandeered
the acceptable French dress
during the Jacobin’s Reign of
Terror (1793-1794). Following
the Jacobins’ ousting, these trends
became culturally significant to

the every man, and
the course of fashion
undeniably altered.

The Fashion Industry’s Technological Developments from the Industrial
Revolutions in France and the United Kingdom (C. 1780-1820)

Taras, Alex. 1820

**************************************************** The United Kingdom felt great success with the capital
When Napoleon Bonaparte restricted textile imports in restructuring of textile manufacturing plants as early as
1780. Developments in the spinning of cotton by Sir
France, the fashion industry needed to adapt to domestic Richard Arkwright (Hammond, 51), who incorporated
methods of production. Wartime efforts also, in Britain, the pushing force of water streams to spin thread and
coincidentally led to adaptations in common methods yarns, shifted the industry away from women weavers
of production, following technological developments and towards mechanization. From then on, an industry
with spinnerets and looms. These paradigm shifts would lead was established, British yarn exports exceeding
revolutionize the cotton industry from then on, shifting Europe’s capacity of weavers (Hammond, 50). With
parts of its reliance on manual labour to capital goods, thread supply eclipsing weaving capacity, the common
increasing accessibility, and ultimately changing the course production methods needed restructuring.
of the currently developing international fashion industry.
Figure 1: Power Loom Weaving, Circa 1836
While the Napoleonic empire restricted textile imports English inventor Edmund Cartwright would develop
after the turn of the millennia, – Indian muslin, printed
cottons, and Shawls (Tortora, et al., 309) – France and the first Power Loom in 1785 (Hills, 117), and numerous
England were battling toward the next innovation in their subsequent developments by various engineers would
ever-competing industries (Crafts, 594). At the same inspire Frenchmen to specialize these machines
time, rising French/British tensions from Napoleon’s even further. Christophe-Phillippe Oberkampf, who
unsuccessful 1805 French occupancy of the English unfortunately passed years ago, lead a very successful
channel in, ‘La Bataille de Trafalgar,’ (Tortora, et al., 310) textile printing business whose factories’ output still
were the cause of civil unrest. In other words, Napoleon’s increases with each innovation in the space (“Musée
own revolutionist country began to turn against him. Protestant,” n.d.). Moreover, who could forget Joseph
Within France, the pushing force to innovate was that of Marie Jacquard, who developed the automatic Jacquard
necessity, primarily needing to adapt to new legislation loom, which raised and lowered yarns to create intricate
which impacted our third largest import of the time; patterns (Tortera, et al., 314). These mechanizations,
textiles. Secondly, the changes to come were necessary, nowadays powered by steam engines engines similar to
following the economic downturn our country felt while
the English boomed (Teich, et al., 51). It is fair to assume
the English were ahead of the French in the industrialization
of the production of cotton textiles and goods. Napoleon’s
import restrictions were just as much an invigoration of
the domestic industry as they were a protectionist policy
attempting to maintain l’Ancien Régime’s dreadful way of
dress; the latter an unsuccessful attempt of immutability,
but ultimately both demonstrations of the empire’s folly
to fashion’s resilience. The recently terminated tensions
between Britain and France were felt deep within the
fashion industry, as the English were developing new tools
that replaced traditional means of production.

those found in the “steam tramways” being developed in Figure 2: Cotton Gin, Circa 1794
Wales as of 1804 (“N.M.W,” 2006), have put pressure on
the fashion industry’s previous production standards and I stipulate that these developments were not fully
the state of worker efficacy. These pursuits for industry realized until the Americas’ cotton gin in 1794, which
development were majorly successful, Jacquard alone they developed to adapt to their increasing raw cotton
having sold thousands of mills throughout Europe, but production. The tool separated cotton fibers from the pods,
they brought with them some well-founded concerns “thereby speeding up the manufacture of cotton textiles,”
(Faulkner, 222). The working classes who at the time (Tortora, et al., 314). Nevertheless, these developments
would manually raise and lower individual warp yarns all-together could not compound before the declaration of
were being replaced by punched cards and gears (Oakes, peace following the conflict at Waterloo in 1815 (Bourhis,
4), threatening their livelihoods. This same worry came et al., ix). Since then, La France’s Bourbon monarchy has
about when steam was first introduced, and factories been stable enough, and French/British trade revitalized.
managed to thrive with corresponding falls in price and As a byproduct, the shared accumulated wealth of
greater demand. The former will likely follow this same knowledge during these times of turmoil and industrial
example. At this rate, the complex woven textiles France development have brought together Europe’s powers and
produces today will likely be produced on Jacquard brought production costs down, and will continue to make
looms tomorrow (Oakes, 3), and the whole industry may clothes more accessible from here on.
become mechanized!
This is all to say our industry is malleable. We are not
Figure 3: Jacquard Loom, Circa 1862 static, and revolutionary ideas and expression will continue
to shift the industry’s standard methods of production,
such as Jacquard’s loom or Arkwright’s use of streams.
Napoleon commandeered France’s luxury industry
(Bourhis, ix), the same way he brought us legislative and
educational reforms at his marvelous start. To hope our
industry never faces an untimely, unfortunate fall from
grace in the venture for mass-accessibility, in similar
fashion to the way he overreached and was disgraced.

****************************************************

Costume Timeline
Taras, Alex, 1820

Directoire & Empire Periods*

1790 1793

The ‘Old Regime’ way of dress incorporated excessive
ornamentation, embroidery, and gaudy pattern. Shown here
is a common set of men’s Drawers, a lightweight cotton or
linen set with chemise and breeches.

This aristrocrat gentlemen’s ensemble
demonstrates the ‘Old Regime’
way of dress. A fitted coat atop a
waistcoat, paired with matching
patterned breeches.

Revolutionary ardor in the 1790’s
led French men and women
to adorn red, white and blue to
symbolize their support for change.
Shown here is a blue men’s ‘Spencer,’
pinstriped Pantaloons; early versions
of later trousers, and the typical men’s cravat.
The woman’s Spencer, in red, could have been cropped
as high as her bosom. She wears this coat overtop a full dress.

Similarly, typical women’s dress consited of various simplified
dresses, skirts, and gowns. The idea of ‘Classical Antiquity’ was
one of growing popularity, and ancient Roman ‘Golden Age’ and
Greek influence was found throughout European fashion of the
period. These influences led to simple white Chemise dresses
gaining popularity, mimicking the white marble sculptures of the
past. Paired with a simple accent coloured shawl, this was the
typical woman’s dress (shown on the left).

Thereafter, trends began emerging within this era of simpler
dress. Sheer fabrics gained popularity alongside deep, square
necklines. Some dresses even exposed the wearer’s breasts,

such as this lightweight, 2 piece Apron Dress.

Jewelry, mostly reserved for women, felt the same influences
from ancient Roman, Greek, and even Italy, to name some notable
examples. Trade throughout Europe led to greater accessibility of different styles.

Empire Period 1820

1799

In this Period, men’s clothing lost its colour. The French strived
for the ‘ideal of equality’ between man, following the adoption of
the ‘Declaration of Rights of Man’ in 1789. The lasting effect of the
Industrial and French Revolutions was the subtraction of luxury and
gravitas. In other words, this unification of man was demonstrated
through men’s ever-simplifying dress.

Shown on the very left is the typical man’s Banyan, an indoor
robe worn over a ruffled or gathered chemise. Men’s suiting
at the turn of the millenia would have been a full mismatched
ensemble such as this navy, single breasted coat with 2 tails
ending above the knee, and a square cut front; cream trousers
ending at the ankle, and two waistcoats, one red and one yellow,
worn atop another ruffled shirt, layered for warmth.

By the end of this period, English styles conquered the European fashion scene, influencing the
fullness of skirts, and the man’s newfound ‘uniform’ (shown on the right), to name a few styles.

‘Regency’ era English dress also began introducing more reserved styles of dress for
women, such as this striped Pelisse with fullness at the tops of the sleeves. These
simplifications of styles were spearheaded by the industrialization of the
manufacturing process, and the attitudes of ‘Republican Austerity’
sweeping Europe.

The corset was replaced with the Stay, which had
a ‘push-up effect,’ on the wearer’s breast. These
were often worn atop the woman’s Chemise,
and paired with a Petticoat for volume,
depending on the current trends.

In summary, the power struggles in
France left the people yearning for
new ways to express their unification
and alliance, juxtaposed to the
Old Regime’s classist dress which
alienated commoners..

* Garment information was retrieved from (Tortera, et al., “Survey of Historic Costume”, Chapter 11) Figure 4

Figure 5

Joseph Marie Jacquard: A Man
who Revolutionized Textiles

Joseph Marie Jacquard is a revolutionary man in the textiles community. He recent-
ly got awarded the Legion of Honor and a gold medal for his success in inventing
the Jacquard loom. For centuries, the technology and methods for weaving have not
changed significantly. But, with the help of Jacquard’s loom, it has revolutionized the
textile industry.

Jacquard is born on July 7, 1752, in Lyon France. As a young boy, he has
spent his life working hours in a silk mill in his hometown. He served as a draw-
boy; usually, younger children would take this position since their small
hands were able to weave easier. This position was a dangerous job for the
kids, but they had to help the economy somehow.

Over time, Jacquard was promoted to a mill mechanic. Often,
we would reminisce about his childhood and wanted to find another way
that did not put young children in a dangerous position. He discovered
a French inventor named Jacques Vaucanson. He made a loom where
rolls of paper would be used to control how the threads
would be woven. Jacquard was given one of his
looms to fix and as he was able to use Vaucan-
son’s loom as a starting point for his proto-
type.

In 1793, when the French Revolu-
tion was at its peak, Jacquard had to stop
his progress completely. When Napoleon
took control in 1801, he continued to work
on his prototypes. He brought his draw-loom
to an exhibition in the Louvre in Paris and he
was awarded a bronze medal. He was invited
to the exhibition again with an improved draw-
loom with a “Jacquard attachment” and an improved
way to operate the machine with a roll of punch
cards that are connected to the loom. With the new
improvements, the loom’s capabilities expanded to
creating complex designs on textiles while work-
ing faster than if a fabric was woven by a skilled
weaver.

While his invention was praised by
some, the weaver community was upset with
Jacquard’s achievements of his loom. There
were many riots and relentless attacks against
Jacquard and his looms in Lyon. This lasted
a decade before his looms were accepted.
Jacquard’s looms are used across the nation
and helped France for being well known for its
high-quality wovens and the immense growth
of the nation’s economy.

Classical Antiquity:

The Revival of Ancient Rome and Greece

in the 18th Century

During the 18th century, Classical antiquity has sky- time, but the white and light coloured
rocketed in popularity. This popularity was initiated garments continued to be popular with
when Napoleon was trying to take control of some women. The Empire style is
parts of Italy. In Italy, they have established some of the influenced by political views of ascen-
Roman and Greek methodologies in politics, art, and dancy during ancient times. Classical
architecture into their society. This is what started the Antiquity not only influenced dress
revival of ancient Rome and Greece styles in Europe. and design but philosophy and poli-
There was some inclusion of Egyptian influences in tics in Europe. A lot of academics and
some of the art, architecture, and furniture as Napoleon leaders would follow ancient Roman
took an Egyptian artist when the army made their way and Greek references to develop
to Egypt. their way of thinking.

As Classical Antiquity started to gain accep-
tance in European society, French artist took
their interpretation of ancient Rome and
Greek lifestyles on to large paintings, de-
picting what life could be like living in the
past. Also, the influences stretched over
to how women dressed. The Empire styles
of the waist lined being raised to right
underneath the breasts were inspired by
ancient Greek women in ancient Greece’s
Golden Age. As the depiction of ancient
greek and roman statues presented white
garments, it was misleading as the statues
were bleached away by natural elements over

French Luxurious
Shawls

100% Silk
handwoven by skilled weavers

Express your youth
through fashion...

A Lasting Relationship
with the First Nations

As we continue to develop our
society, people need to maintain rela-
tionships to gain allies. Some settlers

have gone across the ocean and
met a group of people named the
First Nations. They are particularly
different from how Europeans have
developed a society yet, they work
uniquely. Communicating with
them is difficult but we have gotten
some translators to aid with this
language barrier. European settlers
in America continue to take influence
from the First Nations dress for a long
time.
A few European settlers have told
stories about how they have adapted First Na-
tions dress to their clothing. Both as fashion and
functional decoration on a garment, the settlers
have learned the ways that the First Nations have
been living with nature. One of these exchanges
between both parties includes how European
settlers used glass beads on their garments
for decorative use. In the First Nations
culture, glass beads are very significant
in their ceremonies. The First Nations
have taught the Europeans how to

make these glass beads and now
we manufacture them slight-
ly different in Europe so more
people can experience these tiny
gems on their garments or fur-
niture. When European settlers
brought back coloured glass beads
to America, the First Nations were
quick to adopt these colored beads
to their clothing. This continues to
be a relationship where cultures merge
and the exchange of goods will attempt
to be fair between both parties.

Figure 9

European settlers in America
brought colourful blankets from their
homeland and they would usually
trade them with the First Nations;
these blankets were called Indian
Blankets. The Europeans discovered
that the First Nations were not using
the blankets for their intended use but
rather, the First Nations would use the
coloured bands of these blankets, cut it
off, and adapt the border to the hem of
their garments. Soon, European settlers
adapted this style to their garments and
there have been stories that both Cana-
dians and Americans adopted their warm
hooded coats for outdoor sports.
The First Nations have influ-
enced European settlers by decorating
their garments with ornamental items,
taught them how to coverup during the
colder seasons, and now we take influence
on their footwear. European settlers describe
the climate in America as a bit extreme, espe-
cially during the wintertime and it can be quite
difficult to survive without the right equip-
ment and garments for the harsh weather. The
First Nations footwear usually consists of boots
and an Algonquian style shoe: The Moccasins.
Most of the footwear was made from soft deer or
moose skins. These skins for footwear provided
the right protection that is needed when passing
through the forests.
The European settlers will continue to trade
and learn from the First Nations and pass down
their knowledge to Europe. Their way of living
is drastically different than ours and it is quite an
experience as most Europeans describe it. The First
Nation’s dress will have a lasting influence on some of
the European dress overtime.

Movie Review:
Emma, 1996 Film.

As most film critiques will focus on the details in the plot
and the videography, most will have a blind eye to the accuracy of
costume in films. Today, this review will be prioritizing the cos-
tumes used in the 1996 film Emma. Emma is based on Jane Aus-
ten’s novel which centers around young romance and how even
the slightest misunderstanding can change a relationship. The story
is set in 1815, England; this is during the Empire period.

For the women’s dress in the film, it is very accurate to the
Empire period. As most of the women portray a white or light-co-
loured gown with a raised waistline. The necklines on these
gowns are usually squared with a few gowns that are V-neck. The
hairstyles have been pined in curls or it is covered with bonnets;
during the empire period, women would mostly have this style
as it would maintain their hair. Other accessories used in the film
that is accurate to the times and widely used throughout the film
are long gloves, parasols, colourful shawls, and simplistic jewelry.
Footwear was hard to analyze as the gowns would usually be long
enough to cover the feet; but women would wear satin flat slip-
pers, like those used in ballet.

For the men’s dress in the film, the costume designers went
for tailcoats with knee breeches with boots that would go over
the breeches. Most of the men would wear dark coloured clothes
while a few would portray with tans or browns. Some would wear
a collared shirt with a vest over it and a cravat around the neck, all
these layers underneath their tailcoats. A couple of accessories that
the men wore were gloves and usually a top hat or a small brim
hat.

Final thoughts on the film are that it portrays the costume
quite accurately and the story is something to be interested in.
Give Emma a watch to reflect on your own opinions!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mBck4F71op8



CLo’ElaougDnee

******************************

The Everyman’s Essential Musk

...Get closer than ever before.

Imported from Cologne, Germany 188 Rue de L’Echelle, Paris, France

The Romantic Period
1820-1850

Carmen Paletta

Romantic Era - Social Recap

American Slavery Becomes Increasingly Controversial

The American slavery industry is undoubtedly a fundamental pillar of the nation’s economy.
Slaves help support the cotton, textiles, mining and tobacco industries. More than 3,500,000 slaves are
working in southern states, and nearly 430,000 utilized on the Atlantic board (Tortora et al, p.330). As
a result, the country’s cotton output has been fluorishing. The United States’ dependence on slaves has
been engrained into the American psyche since the birth of their nation. Despite the financial and social
benefits of the slave trade, there has been a growing population that has posed a threat to the industry.

Specifically, those residing in the Northern states declare that slave ownership, as well as the slave
trade itself is dishonourable, unethical. Their Southern opposition, deeply set in tradition, continue
to relish in the physical, financial, and social comforts of slave ownership. The South’s hesitation to
take on the labour of hundreds of thousands of slaves is justified, is it not? Almost 2 million people
beg to differ. Many abolitionists are vocal about their distaste for the trade. Harriet Beecher Stowe’s

antislavery novel, Uncle Tom’s Cabin has sold over 300,000 copies during the first year it was

published (Brock, 2018). Another white abolition supporter, William Lloyd Garrison founded the

politically forceful newspaper The Liberator. The use of mainstream media outlets to spread the anti-

slavery message does suggest that their effors are gaining traction.
Are Americans truly ready to stray from their roots? Is the taxing process of assimilation actually

worth the so-called ‘moral highground’? Is it possible to neglect such a rudimentary aspect of what it
means to be a colony? In any case, these times will certainly make one question what it is to be a white
American.

A Shift in the Arts

Politics in the 20s-50s These years have seen a shift in the collective
social physhe. The arts have pivoted in a more organic
The past few decades have been a time of direction. On the whole, artists of all mediums have
compelling change. We have seen a social shift from shown a keen interest in obscurity and fantasy, or
tradition in practically every sector of society. Politically, anything that obviously deviates from classical themes
we have seen significant reforms. (Tortora et al, p328). There has been a strong resurgence
of emotionally slanted literature, art, music, dress. What
Most noteably, the massive strides to abolish slavery historians call ‘Romanticism or ’ encapsulates a distaste
in the United States has shaken the nation. With the for traditional leadership, ideology, and creative subject
resistence against the trade gaining traction, the future of matter.
America will look like.
In literature, authors dared more to write about
France’s efforts to recover from their recent full- politics and class. Charles Dickens is known for his
blown revolution, as well as adapt to an omniscient commentary on English classism (Fulford et al, The
monarch, Charles X have been challenging. The French Modern Language, P.832). Prior to the past few years,
have experienced several revolts, including a violent blatantly writing about politics through fiction has been
3-day-long uprising. (Tortora et al p329). The drastic series viewed as impropper. The first historical novel emerged
of events has resulted in the election of Louis Napoleon for during the past few years. Furthermore, overarching
President. literary themes include highly emotional plots, charged
with mystique, fantasy and violence. Authors unleashed
Similar to France, England has also endured their imaginations during this creative renaissance.
monarchical stuggles. King George IV rose to the throne The most successful authors indicative of the era
in 1820 and has been most unpopular, mostly due to his include Lord Byron, Samuel Taylor Coleridge, William
marital scandals. Next came politically-dim William IV in Wordsworth, Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley and John
1830. William’s teenaged niece Victoria took over after his Keats.
death. (Tortora et al, P329). Queen Victoria has seeminly
recaptured England’s faith in the monarchy. The common In dress, paying homage to the past through
theme of political change has sparked similar events historical accessories and design motifs has been
among many other European nations. extremely popular. Specifically, wearing themed
costumes referncing the Middle Ages has recently
been a prominent trend (Rousseau, McCord Museum,
2020). The sociological term for this collective interest
in the time period is Medievalism (Oxford, 2020).
Recurring themes in other artistic mediums included
the same themes: unrestricted subject matter, historical
references, and mystical and emotional slants.

Literary Corner:
“The Rime of the Ancient Mariner”

Part VII

This Hermit good lives in that wood Upon the whirl, where sank the ship,
Which slopes down to the sea. The boat spun round and round;
How loudly his sweet voice he rears! And all was still, save that the hill
He loves to talk with marineres Was telling of the sound.
That come from a far countree.
I moved my lips—the Pilot shrieked
He kneels at morn, and noon, and eve— And fell down in a fit;
He hath a cushion plump: The holy Hermit raised his eyes,
It is the moss that wholly hides And prayed where he did sit.
The rotted old oak-stump.
I took the oars: the Pilot’s boy,
The skiff-boat neared: I heard them talk, Who now doth crazy go,
‘Why, this is strange, I trow! Laughed loud and long, and all the while
Where are those lights so many and fair, His eyes went to and fro.
That signal made but now?’ ‘Ha! ha!’ quoth he, ‘full plain I see,
The Devil knows how to row.’
‘Strange, by my faith!’ the Hermit said—
‘And they answered not our cheer! And now, all in my own countree,
The planks looked warped! and see those sails, I stood on the firm land!
How thin they are and sere! The Hermit stepped forth from the boat,
I never saw aught like to them, And scarcely he could stand.
Unless perchance it were
‘O shrieve me, shrieve me, holy man!’
Brown skeletons of leaves that lag The Hermit crossed his brow.
My forest-brook along; ‘Say quick,’ quoth he, ‘I bid thee say—
When the ivy-tod is heavy with snow, What manner of man art thou?’
And the owlet whoops to the wolf below,
That eats the she-wolf’s young.’ Forthwith this frame of mine was wrenched
With a woful agony,
‘Dear Lord! it hath a fiendish look— Which forced me to begin my tale;
(The Pilot made reply) And then it left me free.
I am a-feared’—’Push on, push on!’
Said the Hermit cheerily. Since then, at an uncertain hour,
That agony returns:
The boat came closer to the ship, And till my ghastly tale is told,
But I nor spake nor stirred; This heart within me burns.
The boat came close beneath the ship,
And straight a sound was heard. I pass, like night, from land to land;
I have strange power of speech;
Farewell, farewell! but this I tell That moment that his face I see,
To thee, thou Wedding-Guest! I know the man that must hear me:
He prayeth well, who loveth well To him my tale I teach.
Both man and bird and beast.
What loud uproar bursts from that door!
He prayeth best, who loveth best The wedding-guests are there:
All things both great and small; But in the garden-bower the bride
For the dear God who loveth us, And bride-maids singing are:
He made and loveth all. And hark the little vesper bell,
Which biddeth me to prayer!
The Mariner, whose eye is bright,
Whose beard with age is hoar, O Wedding-Guest! this soul hath been
Is gone: and now the Wedding-Guest Alone on a wide wide sea:
Turned from the bridegroom’s door. So lonely ‘twas, that God himself
Scarce seemèd there to be.
He went like one that hath been stunned,
And is of sense forlorn: O sweeter than the marriage-feast,
A sadder and a wiser man, ‘Tis sweeter far to me,
He rose the morrow morn. To walk together to the kirk
With a goodly company!—
]Under the water it rumbled on,
Still louder and more dread: To walk together to the kirk,
It reached the ship, it split the bay; And all together pray,
The ship went down like lead. While each to his great Father bends,
Old men, and babes, and loving friends
Stunned by that loud and dreadful sound, And youths and maidens gay!
Which sky and ocean smote,
Like one that hath been seven days drowned
My body lay afloat;
But swift as dreams, myself I found
Within the Pilot’s boat.

Discussion Topics

1. What does the a albatross symbolize in this poem? Why does the Mariner shoot it? Why did the sailors hang the bird’s corpse
on the mast of their ship?
2. Discuss the significance of Death & Life-in-Death’s rolling the dice and what it suggests about the sailors’ destiny. Do you
believe that one’s own fate is determined in a similar fashion? What do you think Coleridge is saying about religion in this
scene?
3. Why must the Mariner share the tale of his journey upon his rescue? What is the Hermit’s promise to him?
4. How does the Mariner choose the Wedding-Guest to listen to his story? How does the guest react afterwards?
5. What does Coleridge imply about humanity in this poem? Consider the emphasis on death and life mirroring each-other
throughout the poem.

The next Poem of the Month is Edgar Allan Poe’s “The Raven”. Read along this month to join on our literary discussions.

Praise for an eerie journey into the depths of Poe’s imagination.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR - SAMUEL TAYLOR COLERIDGE (1772-1834)

Samuel Taylor Coleridge was a British poet known for his intimate diction and contemporary style. His verses are packed
with allusions to nature, grounding readers to their humane mortality. The poet’s lines have noteable depth, and often adopt a
musical rhythm. Coleridge’s interest in German idealist philosophy - inspired namely by Immanuel Kant, becomes obvious
in his narratives (Gilroy, 2006). Using this background, he has tackled theological, social and political subjects in a digestable
manner. Coleridge is now recognized as one of the most influencial writers of the 19th Century. His most noteable works con-
sist of “Lyrical Ballads”, and “Kubla Khan”, and “Christabel”, and “Rime of the Ancient Mariner”, this edition’s Poem of the
Month. He resided in Highgate before passing away in 1834 (Poetry Foundation, 2020).

A ROMANTIC LOOK

This costume encapsulates the character a proper lady. She should be both a beautiful, loving accessory to
her husband. A woman strives to impress her partner through her warbrobe. Collecting a wide variety of dresses
and gowns shows a wife’s dedication to her relationship. Whether you aim to satisfy your husband or impress a
suitor, this outfit will undoubtedly woo him.

Pair the dress with a fan for a more feminine look.
Some say fan-wielding women are portrayed as mysterious
and more promiscuous to onlookers. Be wary of the
suitors that this accessory may attract. It is a functional
and decorative accessory indeed.

A poem called “the Fan”, (1896) reads,

“The stubbornest male in his own despite
Moves when this magnet attracts his chair.”
(Beaujot, p63-104)

Flirtatious gigot sleeves are very indicative of the 30s. Their shaping the wearer’s
range of motion, rendering her unable to do much physical labour at all. A woman has no
business doing that, anyways. The Eastern-inspired block print and daring red colour point
to a woman’s sophistication. The full, gathered skirt is both feminine and youthful. The
slightly-lowered empire waist is an ode to the wearer’s The fabric yield for this 1830s dress
is generous, two and a half yards for the gigot sleeves alone - how indulgent (Cumming et al,
2017, p92)!

This ankle-length dress is just short enough to catch
a glimpse of your slippers. This look was inspired by Italian
ballerina Marie Taglioni (Edwards, P.76), who wore calf-length
dresses to emphasize her pointe walk. These silk slippers are
sleek and luxurious and will keep him looking for more.

For a more practical feel, accessorize
with a parasol. Not only does it act as a sun-
shade, it’s also a means of avoiding idle

hands. Match the silk slippers with the
parasol for an elevated sense of continuity

(Beaujot, P105-138).

Luxurious goose-down sleeve pads give gigot sleeves body. Not only do
they fill the shape, they also assist in drawing the eyesdown. This further em-
phasises the gentle slope of a woman’s shoulder. This silhouette is impeccably

flattering.

These goose-down sleeve pads give gigot sleeves body. Not only
do they fill the shape, they also assist in drawing the eyes down. This fur-
ther emphasises the gentle slope of a woman’s shoulder. This silhouette is

impeccably flattering.

REINE
COSMETICS

PARIS
*****************
REINE’S Secret
of the Orient

“Be the fairest
of them all!”

*****************

50c a jar ~Available at

RSIKCIENR-PWEOHIWNPIDTAEEERNRCIISNosGmetyicosur local druggist

Achieve
porcelain
skin today!

REINE COSMETICS, 78 RUE DE RIVOLI, PARIS

Crinoline Period
1850-1870

Princess Dagmar of Denmark [Digital image]. (2014, August 28). Retrieved October 29, 2020, from http://theebonswan.blog-
spot.com/2014/08/princess-dagmar-of-denmark.html

Day dress
England
Cotton pique
Embroidered
3-Piece Set

Glimpse

into

Futthue re

Hatakeyama, T. (2020). [Day Dress]. Retrieved October The upcoming style and silhouette take a look at
29, 2020, from https://www.kci.or.jp/en/archives/digital_ the white dress to bring all the inspiration needed for this
archives/1850s_1860s/KCI_095 trend. This dress has less fullness at the waist and flatter
in the front and fuller. It is a cotton day costume that is a
Museum, M. (2020). Parasol two-piece matching set instead of the one-piece princess
[Digital image]. Retrieved Octo- style with a seam connecting the bodice and skirt like the
ber 29, 2020, from https://www. pink dress (Tortera, et al.,368). The sleeves are narrow at
metmuseum.org/art/collection/ the shoulders and widen at the elbow, then it gathers into
search/157262 the wristband that is fitting with an epaulette. It also has a
high neckline typical for day dresses; two-bust darts and
Parasol curved seams create shape on the bodice. A brown thread
American embroidery covers the edges of the dress. Pairing this with
Silk some boots cut above the ankle with lacing or elastic, a
Wood pair of white silk stockings and the swiss belt would look
Metal fabulous, along with a dome-shaped parasol lined with silk,
11 a fan, and handkerchiefs for a hand accessory (Tortera, et
al.,370).

fBrlaosmt Evening Dress
Pthae st France
Creme Silk and
Wool Mixed
Gauze
Floral Print
1-Piece

Let’s learn about what consists of the che- Hatakeyama, T. (2020). [Evening Dress]. Retrieved October 29, 2020,
mise, a plain short-sleeved knee-length garment from https://www.kci.or.jp/en/archives/digital_archives/1850s_1860s/
made of cotton or linen, taking a look and the new KCI_082
style. And drawers are another undergarment that
is knee-length and has trim on the edges consisting Museum, Met. “Shoes.” Met Museum,
of lace, tucking or embroidery (Tortera, et al.,364). 2020, www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/
Then comes the corset and the crinoline or hoop, search/90386?searchField=All&sortBy=Rele-
and with the hoop design, the corset has become vance&ft=1850+shoes&offset=0&rp-
shorter. Typically, being made of whalebone for p=20&pos=6.v
structure, a newer style gives shape through the
fabric’s gores and the inset gussets of elastic. The Shoes
crinoline has a whalebone or steel structure for the French
figure, but the steel only came in 1857 onward. The Silk
crinolines rounded shape has a circumference of Linen
about 12 -15 feet (Tortera, et al.,368). Leather
This beautiful pink dress is from France. Lace-up
It is silk and wool, and it is a lovely evening dress
with a dipped neckline instead of the straight-
across neckline. It has beautiful short straight
sleeves with a removable bertha trim, but the trend
is moving towards sleeveless with shoulder straps
or having ribbons tied over the shoulders (Tortera,
et al.,369). This dress has a beautiful floral print
all over the dress, but it was also common to have
embroidery or lace as decoration. Pair this dress
with a beautiful pair of white kid or satin shoes
with a square toe and a low heel would look stun-
ning. Along with some short white gloves, brace-
lets, earrings, brooches, and necklaces made from
coral, cameos, cabochon stones, coloured glass and
jets, this woman would be the talk of the evening
(Tortera, et al.,372).

11

London and Paris Fashions for July 1850 [Digital image]. (2020). Retrieved October 29, 2020, from http://collections.vam.ac.uk/

INTRODUCTIONitem/O568076/london-and-paris-fashions-for-print-unknown/

Charles Fredrick Worth is popularizing the crinoline (hoop skirt) so get rid of all those heavy petticoats than are
weighing you down and into something that gives you movement. The English man has dressed Queen Victoria and
many other noblewomen and has taken his talents to France, which is considered the world’s fashion capital (Tortera, et
al.,356). The House of Worth is the first couture house and where he sells his designs. Their masked balls are where the
women show off their fancy gowns, and a must-see is Eugénie de Montijo, the wife of Napoleon, the third in her dresses.
Along with his foreign adventures are costing a fortune. (Tortera, et al.,358)
The American civil war raging, and slavery is changing, but the prices of clothing have skyrocketed in the south;
the gold rush is booming, and this new style of pants by this brand is called Levi’s (Tortera, et al.,359). Is this brand here
to stay and become a new staple in workwear? The growing demand for civil war uniforms has increased the sale of sew-
ing machines, and this ready-to-wear fashion is growing and could be the future of fashion? The Singer sewing machine
is the most popular due to its unique marketing strategy and financing, making it affordable for the people, setting them
apart from Howe machines (Tortera, et al.,361).

This collection of hats and outerwear gives some insight into what is popular. Women’s hair is parted in the

center and drawn over the ears into a bun or plaits and some false hair and head pads on the side to give the hair more

width (Tortera, et al.,370). A silk or chenille snood or a small cap with long lappets, ribbon, hats with a low flat crown

and wide brim, and flowers were all worn in the hair. Some of the outerwear seen here on the women are shawls, wash-

able aprons, cloaks, loose and fitted jackets varying in lengths and capes (Tortera, et al.,369).
11

PrCaoBcOemtav&iufecortayrltity
Petticoat costs have become a nuisance, and a group of women has turned to an
alternative style. It is called the Bloomer costume, named after Amelia Bloomer, who en-
dorsed the style but did not create it (Tortera, et al.,361).It was commonly found in health
sanitariums but has made its way out into the world located in countries like the United
States, England, Germany, Netherlands and Sweden. The woman on the left in the picture is
wearing a typical Bloomer costume. It consists of a Turkish trouser that synchs at the ankle
and a dress with a short skirt. Many of the women wearing this style are fighting for wom-
en’s rights and find that “fashion, [is] seen as excessive and disabling, provided a lens for
making a broad critique of society’s major flaws.” Mas, C. (2017). Schools and seminaries
have adopted this costume for their exercise program. It provides mobility for doing physi-
cal activating and is also under in gymnastics.

Mas, C. (2017). She wears the pants: The reform dress as technology in nineteenth-cen-
tury america. Technology and Culture, 58(1), 35-66. doi:http://dx.doi.org.ezproxy.kpu.
ca:2080/10.1353/tech.2017.0001

11

The Miriam and Ira D. Wallach Division of Art, Prints and MDLriaakeenss
Photographs: Picture Collection, The New York Public Library.
(1868). Gentlemen’S Paris Winter Fashions. Retrieved from
http://digitalcollections.nypl.org/items/510d47e0-e204-a3d9-
e040-e00a18064a99

Like women, men’s undergarments are made from cotton and linen in the sum-
mer and wool in the winter. Men’s costume will have a similar style to that of the old, with
daytime shirts losing the pointed collar to the neck, embroidery and ruffles that the evening
shirts have. Daytime shirts are usually white and paired with a tie or cravat. These men wear
their trousers with either suspenders or knickerbockers with a tab and buckle in the back
(Tortera, et al.,375). Their coats are double-breasted with side vents and small collars, jack-
ets, reefers or a sack jacket. The newer jackets have a little bit of a larger lapel. A top hat with
short curled or wavey hair and a mustache or beard, clean-shaven is no longer a popular
style. Canes, watches, pins, rings, and canes are good jewelry choices these days and shoes
and short boots for footwear (Tortera, et al.,376).
Children’s wear
Infants wear long gowns and hats. Boys and girls until the age of 4 wore dresses end-
ing just below the knee. As they get older wearing something similar to their gender with
some exceptions like boys’ jackets did not have collars and girls would wear ringlets in their
hair (Tortera, et al.,377).

11



THE
BUSTLE
PERIOD

From 1870s ~ 1890s

What is the

Bustle Period?
And What Was Going On?

The Bustle period, or what Mark Twain used to call the Gilded Age, is
an era between 1870-1890, where the term bustle derived from the device

that supported women’s dress for its back fullness. Also, during this
period, it was a Victorian-era where Great Britain was exerting its sheer
power throughout the world. When the Bustle skirt style became pop-
ular, it marked 30 years of Queen Victoria’s ruling, which she remained
in power for the next 30 years as well. To take a little more dive into
Great Britain, or the British Empire, England during the 1870s was in the
midst of an economic boom from industrialization. New changes were

taking place inside Great Britain as the new legislation extended the
voting rights along with mandating the clean-up of slums. With the
country flourishing both in and outside of the country, Great Brit-
ain was no doubt the most powerful nation in the world at the time

(Tortora. et al, pg. 384).

Great Britain’s close
neighbour, France, situa-
tions were much different
as they were defeated by
Prussian (French-Prussian
War), and as a result of
its Napoleon III surren-
dered which marked the
end of the Second French
Empire and the start
of the Third Republic.
During this transition-
al era in France, a civil
war broke out in Par-
is between radicals and
conservative (Tortora, Et
al,pg 384).

In the US, the US Civil War has just ended,
and the country was being united from
the east to the west via railroads. Settlers
were moving towards the west at an in-
creasing number. Along with the expan-
sion, industrialization, urbanization,
and immigration were also growing

at a rapid pace. Unfortunately, along
with the growth of the nation, it
also grew labour exploitation and
poverty. All this was possible due
to the peace that was brought
along with the end of the Civ-

il War which stabilized and
allowed improving their
economic status for

most Americans.

(tortora, et Al,Pg 384)

Your Dream Life
In New York
Awaits You at
Stuyvesant
Apartment

Contact Estate Manager Howard Irving
for your place today

Address: 142 East 18th Street, NY

(Tortora, et al, pg. 384)

Tired of squinting your eyes to copy small

Patterns from the magazine?
Tired of trials and errors to find the right size?

Look N o Further! Ebenezer Butterick’s
new patented pre-made
paper patterns will free
you from those hassles

(Tortora, et al, pg. 387)

Get
Yours
Today!

Women in Motion

“Only men can work, and women need to stay at home” will soon be an old saying now
as more and more women are joining the workforce every day. Statistics show that there
is an increasing number of women who are actively looking and getting hired for a job.
This rising trend seems to be the new norm with our society soon, which will be very
different from before where most ladies were housewives. Within many different types
of occupations, teaching, dressmaking, domestic, personal services, bookkeeping, and
accounting are the most trending occupation at the moment. Our analysis predicts that
approximately 3,704,000 women will have a job outside of their house and will reach
5,319,000 by 1900. This rising trend of women working also raised attention to more
practical wears for the ladies to suit their occupational needs. Although the traditional
attires for women are beautiful, they are not suitable for women who will be nursing or
even blacksmithing for example. This indicates that maybe in the upcoming future, peo-
ple will be seeing generally simplified attires and shorter skirts with lesser decoration will
be the new fashion needs or the trend (Tortora, et al, pg.385).

Ladies! Time for Some Actions:

Rising trend of Recreational Sports
For Women

It was not common to see ladies participate in sports before but that seems like it is about to change now. The latest trend
shows that more and more women participating in sports. Even though the sports that ladies like to participate is not huge-

ly active in terms of physical activity, it is still a step towards a new era. The research shows that the most popular sports
amongst ladies are the following: tennis, golf, roller skating, hiking, and even some mountain climbing. Some ladies are very
close to the water, but unlike competitive swimming, most ladies are there for a casual “bath”. If you were wondering wheth-

er there is a special attire ladylike to wear for their bathing, my answer to that question is yes! Many ladies modified their
daytime dresses to have a shorter skirt for ease, but nothing too specialized yet, maybe we will see a dress that is fully dedi-

cated to bathing or even swimming.
Speaking of sports for ladies, we have also seen an increasing number of women’s seminaries and colleges where they include
gymnastics in their curriculum. We have also noticed that they have a dedicated women’s sports team for baseball as well. At

this point, the same question aforementioned rises again, is there special clothing’s that these ladies wear? And the answer
is Yes once again! Although many colleges and seminaries require their students to bring their appropriate garments, some

colleges introduced physical education uniforms to have proper attire for physical activities (Tortora, et al, pg.386).

Fashion
Recap

Outfit 2: Evening Dress (1870)
Another submission from an anonymous designer, this
evening dress fully captures the essence of the 1870s.
Generally, the bodice of the dress for the evening dress
is used for the daytime dress as well, so I don’t doubt
the owner of this dress has a similar yet less flamboy-
ant style of skirts for the daytime dress. As you can
see, this dress utilizes a beautiful V-neck along with a
highly decorative and beautifully draped back to make
whoever is wearing this dress a shining star of that

night.

Outfit 3: Daytime and Evening dress – Skirt (est. 1872-1875)
Anonymous designer’s submission of women’s cage Cri-
nolette Petticoat. For this garment, in particular,
there is no bodice presented along with the skirt, but
it is enough for us to see the essence. 78-83 was the peri-
od where the bustle skirt was starting to slim down to
compliment the cuirass bodice, and since this skirt was
made in-between that period, it has significantly lesser

volume compared to the prior submissions

Outfit 4: Daytime dress (1886)
Anyone missing the bustle fullness? Well, good news because they are
back! However, there is a key difference that you will notice if you have
a sharp eye. The difference between this dress’ bustle to its prior dresses is
that this dress’ bustle has a more constructed bustle. Other than that,
the bodice construction follows the generally similar essence of the
1870s. The only noticeable difference would be the neckline where this

dress has a high fitted collar compared to the 1870s.

Outfit 5: Outdoor Dress (1883) – by Emile
Pingat

Finally, a non-anonymous designer for
our submission. The first thing that
grabbed my eyes was the leopard prints
that were used for this dress. Very ad-
venturous choice in terms of prints.
Although it is an outdoor dress, it
lacks cloaks or capes, utilizes a jack-
et instead (Cloaks and Capes are heav-
ily used during the crinoline-period).

Overall, a beautiful dress.

Monthly Accessories
Top 1 Pick

Our editors have chosen this evening hat as a winner of this
month’s accessory. The first thing that grabs people’s attention
will be the beautifully preserved whole bird sitting on top of
the hat along with the braids that surround the edge. It also
does a fantastic job of capturing the feel of the 1880s as it was
trendy to have braids along with some feathers, ribbons, or lace
as a decoration. If there is a lady who is looking for a state-

ment piece, this will be it.

The
Nineties

The Nineties is a time where technology and society changed quite significantly com-
pared to the past century. Queen Victoria’s reign continues to be a popular subject
when reviewing the royal family. Especially how her new way of the dress has influ-
enced the etiquette of mourning and how she has set a standard for it. Another aspect
of life that has changed significantly is how design is portrayed. Art and design are
moving towards modernism and how it dismisses the artistic styles of the past. Wom-
en’s participation in sports and society has shown growth, yet it is still not favoured by
a lot of the men, women are going full speed towards change!

Art Nouveau:

A Revolt against the Arts of the Victorian
Period

Another European reform has taken It is debatable if artists are erasing the past with
over from 1890-1910: Art Nouveau. This re- this new reform, but it shows popularity with
form stems from how people believe that we the public. It shows influence in a lot of wom-
need to abandon the old and historic styles en’s clothes. The silhouette of the dress changed
from the past but rather, focus on how the from an hourglass shape rather than
object is formed should decide how it should using the bustle. A lot of nature-inspired forms
be designed. Artists say that “it [is] a revolt can be spotted on embroidered patterns on
against eclectic nature of art and design of garments as well as accessories.
the Victorian period.” Many artists and de- Some say that Art Nouveau may be a catalyst
signers are inspired by organic and geometric to another artistic movement that is on the rise
shapes that create a natural feel to the design. called modernism.
Also, there is an emphasis on movement in a
painting and design on furniture by utilizing
curves and organic shapes that are inspired by
nature.

Some colours that are widely used in
Art Nouveau are muted greens, shades of
browns, yellows, and a variety of blues. But
the colour is not seen as important as the
lines and shapes.

“this artistic philosophy that stressed
the need for art to be divorced from
the past led to the true revolution in
art that
arrive with modern,
abstract art after World War I”

Mourning Etiquette:

Featuring Queen Victoria

As the royal family is always a hot topic for ordinary people, Queen
Victoria has been placed in the spotlight for the last decade. As she is the
Queen of England, she recently spread the news that her husband, Prince

Albert in 1861. The pain and grief of a loved one are always the hardest to
let go. Queen Victoria has set the standard for mourning etiquette and has
influenced society.

Queen Victoria would dress in layers of black undergarments; some
rumour that she would even wear black underwear too. When it was

her husband’s death, she would wear full mourning which consists
of wearing everything with solid black. But as time passes by, she
has been in half-mourning which consisted of being able to
wear a bit of purple or white. Another rumour that has
spread is that Queen Victoria will wear jewelry that can
hold the hair of a family member or friend.
Men’s dress for mourning will typically be a black
armband and children’s mourning would be to
wear black or dark coloured clothing. But for
widows, the dress had a deeper meaning for the
different phases of mourning. Widows would
usually wear mourning for a year where her
gowns would be made out of black crape; a silk
fabric with a textured and crinkled surface.
With the black dresses, she would adorn her
body with black accessories too. For the sec-
ond phase of mourning, widows should wear
black with either white or purple trimmings.
Mourning is to show respect for our loved
ones who have passed away and to express the
grief that one may feel through a dress.



Women on a Roll!

Women Cycling

As bicycles were initially invented for men for another way to travel,
women have taken over this mode of transportation for themselves. Most
women would be mocked or laughed at considering the bicycle would
be for men and it would not be “lady-like” for women to sit forward
since they would sit in a side straddle. But over time, the bicycle has
been a tool to empower women in a society where they are trapped in
a box.

As the interest to ride a bike peaked for women, the earlier
years have been quite difficult. Firstly, a lot of accidents would
occur as the long skirts that women would typically wear
would get caught in the pedals and wheels, which caused
them to fall off the bicycle and have a difficult time taking
their skirts out from the wheels. Some women would have the
audacity to wear shorter skirts to fix this issue. but later, women would
adapt to the men’s dress to their cycling costume.

A women’s modern cycling costume would consist of knick-
ers instead of a long skirt. Knickers are pants with a lot of full-
ness so that when a woman dismounts, it would give an illu-
sion of a skirt. Another option for knickers is a divided skirt
or a skirt that can be worn over knickers. over the knickers,
a woman would wear a fitted jacket to keep all the layers
intact. underneath the fitted jacket, a cycling woman
would wear a shirtwaist which helped with her posture.

As women take the bicycle to express free-
dom from a strict society that places sexes in their
boxes, men do not entertain this interest. There has
been recent news of men mocking women or even
destroying these bicycles. Despite all this hatred
towards change, women continue to cycle without
looking back to the past.



Boys
Clothing

Hello Girls! *In Dawn’s Boutique,
ask for assitance
Mix and Match pieces, when ordering in
Have variety in your wardrobe, store
Be unique! Be Different
Visit Dawn’s Boutique for prices and styles