layout

How to apply the acrylic; The apex is very important when
building the structure of the
Firstly you need to submerge nail, without out it your nails are
the full head of the acrylic brush prone to snapping. By applying a
into the monomer wiping away thicker amount of product over
excess liquid into the dappen the apex area (typically located
dish. You will then use the tip between the middle of nail bed
of your brush to drag towards and the natural nail free edge)
you through the surface of the you will be protecting the client
powder. You should of collected a from breakages as this is where
pea size bead onto the tip of the they often occur.
brush; apply this to the tip of the
nail. Gently pat the bead with Finally the smallest bead can be
the belly of your brush, dragging applied, make sure this is placed
the excess acrylic towards the tip leaving a small gap between the
and wiping any excess away onto acrylic and your cuticle/side
a sheet of desk roll. Keep wiping walls. This is so that when we file
your brush between applications around the cuticles and side walls
onto the desk roll to keep it it is easy to blend into the nail
clean. avoiding contact with the skin.

Now apply the second bead, this In conclusion, you should aim for
can be slightly bigger than the 2-3 beads of acrylic per nail -
first. Place it above where the However, this depends on the
first bead ends, blending the length of the nail.
acrylic by dragging it towards
the tip and making sure the sides
are covered. This bead is used to
create the apex of the nail.

Pg.37

Filing It is important to know when to
stop filing by checking whether
Begin with an NSI 150 grit file. the acrylic is blended into the
Start by buffing across the belly nail, if so you will no longer
of nail only; using a sweeping be able to see the join between
motion in one direction, filing where you applied the acrylic.
left to right. Run your finger or
thumb over the area you have Finally using the curved edge of
filed to check the surface is the file you can blend the acrylic
smooth. into the cuticle, filing is in one
direction left to right, not back
Once you have filed the belly of and forth. Know when to stop
the nail you can move on to the filing by checking whether the
side walls, using the straight edge acrylic is blended into the nail,
of your file go up the sides of if so you will no longer be able
the nails. Using your other hand to see the join between where
that is holding the clients finger you applied the acrylic. Run
you can pull the skin on the side your finger over the nail to
of the nail wall back with your check for any lumps and bumps,
thumb to give you space to file nails should feel even and smooth.
along the edge. Make sure your By buffing over the nail with your
pressure is correct, you don’t buff block you can smooth out
want to cut into the nail or skin any small bumps or sharp/rough
but you must use enough so the areas that might catch.
filling is effective.
Nails are now ready to paint!
Finally using the curved edge of
the file you can blend the acrylic
into the cuticle, filing is in one
direction left to right, not back
and forth.

Pg.38

Gel paint & top coat

It is important that once the nails
have been filed that the client
does not touch anything such as
their clothes/face/hair. This is so
that no oils or fibres are trans-
ferred onto the acrylic; this can
cause the gel to peel/lift/bubble.
For the gel to look perfect it must
be painted onto freshly filed,
clean surface any dirt or fibres
must be removed at this point
using cleanse and prep with a lint
free pad.

Gel is best applied in three
strokes, starting from the cuticle
area at the centre place the gel
brush just beneath the cuticle and
drag towards you in one smooth
motion to the end of the tip. Fol-
lowing this your second and third
stroke will be along side the cen-
tre stroke using the same method.
Make sure you have covered all
corners and sides, most colours
will need between 2/3 coats cured
for 60 seconds. Some might need
a base coat this depends on the
brand and pigment of the gel. If
unsure then use a thin layer of
base coat before application.

Pg.39

Notes

Pg.40

Notes

Pg.41







Unit 3:

Pg.45

MAINTENANCE &
ACRYLIC INFILLS

Initially you will discuss with At first while you are practising
your client how long they would it is advised that your clients
like their nails, what they do on will need an infill after 2 weeks
a daily basis or for a living and to be on the safe side, as you get
also if they know whether their better your nails will last longer!
nails grow fast or slow. From this An infill is a great way to review
information we can then give the your work and see whether your
client a guideline on how long application of the full set was
they will need to wait before an successful also highlighting what
infill is due. areas can be improved on. At this
point we are aiming for all nails
Acrylic nails typically last to be on with minimal wear and
clients at least 2 weeks, however tear.
this can be up to 4 weeks.

There are multiple factors that this
depends on, such as;

• Length
• Daily activities
• Nail growth

Pg.46

How to infill: Step 4: Acrylic application

Step 1 : Gel polish removal Using the same acrylic technique
mentioned previously apply a pea
Begin by filing the gel polish size bead onto the growth space
away, all of the gel must be without it touching the cuticle or
removed before any products side walls leaving a small boarder
can be reapplied. Using the same for room to file. Whilst wet drag
filing technique as previously it towards the tip of the nail so it
advised at the acrylic stage. blends into the rest of the acrylic.

Step 2: Wear & tear Step 5: Filing in

Once all the polish has been Once dry file around the cuticle
removed we can see whether any area and side walls blending the
of the nails have lifted, we must join into the nail plate. Usually
check around the side walls and you will neaten up the existing
cuticles especially. shape however some people may
*Lifting is common when train- wish to change the shape com-
ing and can be easily rectified* pletely; make sure to ask this be-
fore you gel as it is not advised to
Step 3: Prep for infill change the shape once they have
been painted. Finally, refer back
File away the lifted areas of the to gel polish & top coat unit 2.
acrylic until it is sealed tight to
the nail ready to reapply new Pg.47
acrylic in the growth space. Make
sure you have removed any excess
cuticles and skin and then create
a clean rough surface across the
whole nail using your file (refer
back to perfect prep). Then, apply
a small amount of primer around
the growth space only, avoiding
the cuticle and tip.

Notes

Pg.48

Notes

Pg.49

REMOVAL &
AFTER CARES

When removing acrylic nails cor- Once the acrylic is fully removed,
rectly there should be no damage file the clients nails into desired
to the natural nail underneath. shape and remove any excess cuti-
This process could take up to cles/skin. Finally apply cuticle oil
30/40 minutes. Begin by clipping or balm to the skin all around the
away excess length with your nail as the acetone can be drying
nail cutters and removing the gel to the hands.
polish with your file. Soak clients
nails in acetone pots, (pots with
removable base can be filled with
hot water which will speed up
the process) alternatively place
cotton pads soaked in acetone in-
dividually onto nails and wrap in
foil. Clients must leave hands in
pots/foil for 20 minutes without
taking them out. Then, one hand
at a time file away the acrylic
that has melted away. You may
need to put client’s hands back in
the pots/foil for a further 10/15
minutes.

Pg.50

Notes

Pg.51

CLIENT RAPPORT
& EQUALITYS

When you are working within the Dealing with complaints
industry it is important that you and difficult clients can be
get feedback on your work, also expected, it is normal to face
taking note on how the client some problems throughout your
feels about the service they have career. More importantly when
received. You can do this by faced with these issues you should
asking clients to leave you a remain calm and professional.
review or fill in a questionnaire. Clients may also contact you in
regards to their nails if they have
To become reputable you an issue such as a repair. This is
need to stay professional, especially within your first year
approachable and friendly. and you can expect to have to
This will help to build a rectify your work if needs be.
strong rapport making some
good friends as well as lasting Ultimately it is your duty to
clients. By always being honest be more than a nail technician
and showing dedication towards when working with customers
your work and customers, people you are a friend and confidant.
will be loyal to you throughout Anything your clients tell you
your personal development. is strictly confidential and you
are not permitted to discuss it
Pg.52 further. This links in with the
data protection act that gives
consumers the right to withhold
information and protects them
from any unnecessary exposure.

As you progress you will realise
that you are offering far more
than a nail treatment, rather you
are giving your undivided time
and attention to that person. It is
that mutual respect which what
will make your clientele strong
and long lasting. You will meet
all different kinds of people and
therefore it is so important to
recognise equality and diversity
when working with the general
public and even along side
colleagues. The equality act
legally protects people from
discrimination in the work place
and in wider society, please be
aware discrimination of any type
is now against the law. Forms of
discrimination are: Age, Gender,
Race, Sexuality, Religion.

Pg.53





CONTRA INDICATIONS

A contra-indication is something Eczema
that is going to prevent or stop
the nail treatment being carried The term eczema is broadly
out. These should be checked and applied to a range of persistent
recorded before any treatment is skin conditions.
undertaken. Contra indications
can require GP referral, letter These include dryness and
required for some treatments. recurring skin rashes that are
characterised by one or more
SKIN diseases/disorders of these symptoms:

During treatment you may • Redness
come across some skin diseases • Skin edema (swelling)
or disorders on the hands and • Itching and dryness
arms and some of these may • Crusting
restrict the treatment, meaning • Flaking
you will have to work around • Blistering
them. However, some will fully • Cracking
contra indicate the treatments • Oozing
meaning they require GP referral. • Bleeding
It is your responsibility as a
therapist to check the area you
will be working on during a
consultation and make
the decision.

Pg.54

Psoriasis MMA Damaged
• The disorder is a
chronic recurring condition that MMA (methyl methacrylate) is a
varies in severity from minor lo- liquid monomer used for acrylic
calised patches to complete body nails by some unscrupulous sa-
coverage. lons even though it is considered
• Fingernails and by and prohibited by the FDA to
toenails are frequently affect- ed be a poisonous and deleterious
(psoriatic nail dystrophy) and can substance.
be seen as an isolated sign. Psori- MMA nails are very rigid and do
asis can also cause inflammation not bend or have the flexibility to
of the joints, which is known as break.
psoriatic arthritis.
Brittle or Split
Nail disease
Brittle/split nails are vertical
Nail diseases must always be splitting or separation of the nail
referred to the clients GP or plate layers at the free edge of the
pharmacist before treating as nail plate.
serious infection or damage can In most cases, nail splitting and
be caused. vertical ridges are characteristic
of the natural ageing process.
Nail disorders (treatable)
Pg.55
Nail disorders will be something
that as a nail therapist you will
come across and you may need to
advise your client with the appro-
priate treatment and homecare
advice.

Nail disorders can be treated
these are not contra-indicated to
the treatment.

Quiz

1. Name the main function of the matrix ?

2. Give one reason why it is important to have the correct desk height
when working ?
3. Give one example of hygiene standards ?
4. How often should you get your electrical equipment PAT tested ?
5. What is contact dermatitis ?
6. State the location of hyponychium ?
7. Give one reason for nail prep ?
8. State 3 different nail shapes ?

9. How many beads should you aim to use when you are doing a
mid-length nail ?
10. What product must you apply to the nail plate before acrylic ?

11. How do you check your acrylic application is smooth once you
have filed it ?
12. State why it is important to obtain adequate insurance ?
13. What is considered perfect room temperature ?
14. Name one effective way of sterilising your equipment ?
15. For what reason do we remove moisture when we prep ?
16. What is “acrylic” ?
17. What is the main reason for building an “apex” ?
18. What is the collective name for the nail walls and cuticle area ?
19. How do you prevent respiratory sensitisation ?
20. State one recognised professional nail brand ?

Pg.56

Notes

Pg.57

Notes

Pg.58