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Published by KOLEJ VOKASIONAL MATANG, 2024-03-13 00:08:07

FASHION, HISTORY, MUSEUMS INVENTING THE DISPLAY OF DRESS

JULIA PETROV

Plate 1 Unknown photographer, slides showing the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute show Vanity Fair (1977), curated by Diana Vreeland. Author’s collection.


Plate 2 American designer Zac Posen is shown studying Charles James gowns in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in House of Z (2017). Screencaps by author.


Plate 3 Slides showing Siegel mannequins in period room settings at the Costume Museum of the City of Paris, c. 1980. Courtesy Gail Niinimaa.


Plate 4 A mannequin wearing the “Sorbet” evening dress is posed like a 1913 fashion plate by Georges Lepape in the Costume Institute preview of Poiret: King of Fashion at the Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 7, 2007 (Photo by Peter Kramer/Getty Images). Georges Lepape, “Laquelle?,” pochoir print depicting the Paul Poiret “Sorbet” evening dress in the Gazette du Bon Ton 11 (November 1913), Pl. V, Smithsonian Libraries.


Plate 5 Museum staff prepare garments for display in online videos from (clockwise from top left) the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (2016), Victoria and Albert Museum (2015), Museum of the City of New York (2016), and the National Gallery of Canada (2016). Screencaps by author.


Plate 6 The reality effect of lifelike mannequins is parodied at the Museum of Costume, Bath in “Ancient Models” (1955). Screencaps by author.


Plate 7 Two undated postcards showing the same tableau in the Fashion Wing of the Philadelphia Museum of Art; mannequins have been slightly rearranged and dressed in different outfits but the vignette remains the same. Author’s collection.


Plate 8 The architecture of the museum is echoed virtually in the Valentino Garavani Museum (Association Valentino Garavani Archives 2012). Screencaps by author.


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