Mixing Essential Oils for Magic

rose
petitgrain
lavandin
geranium,
storax
bergamot, lime
bay, cinnamon
ylang-ylang
lavender ( true)
chamomile,
galbanum,
bergamot,
allspice, star
neroli,
myrrh
lemon, lime,
anise, tarragon
palmarosa, rose
orange
neroli

jasmine, rose
opopanax
lemon, orange
coriander,
ginger
palmarosa
cananga,
storax
eucalyptus
cardamom,
geranium
( lemon),
clove, pepper
grapefruit
rose ( Damask)
jasmine,
frankincense
bergamot,
benzoin, clove,
lavender ( true)

lemon balm
ginger
rose ( Maroc)
chamomile,
storax
bergamot,
benzoin, clove,
ylang-ylang
lemon
ginger
ylang-ylang
chamomile
storax
lemon balm,
clove, pepper
( German),
litsea
jasmine
58 Blending by Scent Group
Table 4.6 The Resinous Scent Group

Resinous
Within the
Neighboring Groups
Scent
Resinous Group
Floral Spicy
camphor
frankincense
chamomile,
bay, caraway,
lavender ( true)
ginger
frankincense
myrrh, opopanax
lavender ( true),
bay, pepper
neroli
galbanum
frankincense, storax
geranium,

cumin, tarragon
lavender ( true)
myrrh
frankincense
geranium,
benzoin, elemi
lavender ( true)
opopanax
frankincense, myrrh
neroli
coriander, lovage
storax
galbanum
jasmine,
palmarosa, rose
Table 4.7 The Spicy Scent Group
Spicy
Within the
Neighboring Groups
Opposite

Scent
Spicy Group
Resinous Woody
Group
Citrus
allspice
clove ( bud),
opopanax
patchouli
orange
coriander,
ginger
anise
coriander,
oakmoss
mandarin,
cumin
orange
bay
cardamom,

frankincense
cypress,
lemon,
hops
juniper, pine
orange ( sweet)
benzoin
cassia,
frankincense,
birch, spruce
lemon
petitgrain
myrrh
caraway
cinnamon,
frankincense
orange ( sweet)
ginger
cardamom
fennel, pepper

frankincense
cedarwood,
bergamot,
patchouli
mandarin
Blending by Scent Group 59
Table 4.7 The Spicy Scent Group (continued)
Spicy
Within the
Neighboring Groups
Opposite
Scent
Spicy Group
Resinous Woody
Group
Citrus
cassia
clove,
frankincense
grapefruit

coriander,
ginger
celery
coriander,
oakmoss, pine
lemon
lovage
cinnamon
benzoin,
frankincense
fir ( balsam),
mandarin,
( bark)
coriander,
spruce
orange ( sweet)
elemi
cinnamon ( leaf) caraway, clove,
frankincense
cedarwood

lemon,
coriander
( Atlas), spruce
orange ( sweet)
clove ( bud)
allspice, bay,
cajeput,
bergamot,
nutmeg
patchouli
mandarin
clove ( leaf)
cinnamon
cajeput,
grapefruit,
( bark), nutmeg
sandalwood
orange ( sweet)
coriander
ginger,

frankincense,
cypress, pine
bergamot
petitgrain
opopanax
cumin
cardamom
galbanum
dill
caraway, elemi,
spikenard
lemongrass,
nutmeg
orange
elemi
nutmeg
frankincense,
juniper
lemon, lime,
myrrh

mandarin
fennel ( bitter)
pepper
frankincense
lemon
fennel ( sweet)
cardamom
sandalwood
lemon
galangal
allspice, myrtle
opopanax
patchouli, pine
lemon, lime,
litsea
ginger
coriander
frankincense
sandalwood,
lemon, lime,

vetiver
orange
60 Blending by Scent Group
Table 4.7 The Spicy Scent Group (continued)
Spicy
Within the
Neighboring Groups
Opposite
Scent
Spicy Group
Resinous Woody
Group
Citrus
hops
bay, myrtle,
pine
lemon balm,
nutmeg
litsea
lovage

bay
galbanum,
oakmoss
opopanax
myrtle
bay, clove,
fir ( balsam)
bergamot, lime
ginger
nutmeg
petitgrain,
oakmoss
lime, mandarin
turmeric
pepper
coriander
frankincense
fir ( balsam),
grapefruit, lime
juniper

petitgrain
benzoin, clove
frankincense
valerian
bergamot, litsea
snakeroot
coriander
oakmoss,
bergamot
patchouli, pine
star anise
coriander
cedarwood,
orange
pine
tarragon
ginger
galbanum
fir, juniper,
lime

oakmoss, pine

turmeric

clove, ginger

labdanum

Sample Blend

Using the opposite group blending method, here’s a down-to-earth
yet ethereal combi-

nation that I like to use for dream work. It contains cedarwood,
jasmine, and ylang-ylang which are members of the woody and floral
scent groups. All three oils are associated with dream work and
peace. In addition, cedarwood and jasmine are associated with
spirits, and ylang-ylang communicating with them.

Blending by Scent Group 61

Galadriel’s Dream

Cedarwood: 5 drops

Ylang-ylang: 4 drops

Jasmine: 1 drop

One system for classifying scents that I did not include at the
beginning of this chapter was devised by G. W. Septimus Piesse and
explained in his book The Art of Perfumery (1855). In it he equated
fragrances with musical octaves, which may seem rather curious but
it is popular for blending essential oils. We will explore this method in
the next chapter.

CHAPTER5

Blending by Perfume Note

Scents and Musical Notes

As mentioned at the end of the last chapter, British analytical chemist
and perfumer G.W.

Septimus Piesse (1820–1882) devised a method for classifying
scents according to musical scales. As he explained in his book The
Art of Perfumery (1855), this method was based on his belief that
sound and smell form a link in the brain. Assigning fragrances to
certain notes allowed the perfumer to create what he called
harmonious scents. For example, a C chord would result in a blend
of sandalwood, geranium, acacia, neroli, and camphor.

Piesse’s son Charles is sometimes credited with devising this
system because as editor of the book he removed Septimus’ name
from subsequent editions after his father’s death.17

Needless to say, Piesse’s system was complex and the concept was
not widely used

until William Arthur Poucher (1891–1988) simplified it into three
notes. A research chemist and chief perfumer at Yardley, Poucher
began to classify scents based on their rates of volatility. His book,
Perfumes Cosmetics and Soaps, has been in print since 1923 and is
still a classic reference in the field of cosmetics. In this method,
essential oils are assigned to one of the three notes based on their
dominant characteristic and rate of evaporation. The notes are most
often called top, middle, and base.

The top note is also called the head or peak note. It is the
component that is first detected, usually the strongest, but it has the
fastest evaporation rate lasting 10 minutes to 17. MacEwan, Chemist
& Druggist, 152

63

64 Blending by Perfume Note

several hours. The top note leads the way, but then gives way for the
other scents to take over. The middle note is also called the heart or
modifier. The middle note is usually de-tectable 10 to 45 minutes
after the perfume is applied and can last several hours to several
days. The base note is also called the fixative or body note. Its
purpose is to slow the rate of evaporation of the top note and to act
as an anchor to hold the fragrance together.

A base note scent can last several days to over a week. Working
together, the top note introduces the scent and the middle and base
notes create the core of a blend. Mixing an oil from each of the three
categories creates a well-rounded blend that unfolds over time.

Blending with Notes

Working with three notes is the theory, however, not all oils fit neatly
into one category.

Some oils are complex in that they can function as more than one
note. Angelica seed oil is an example and although it is often
classified as a top note, it is more in-between top and middle. In
addition to functioning as either note, an in-between oil like this
works well as a bridge smoothing the separate notes in a blend. In
Tables 5-1 and 5-2 I have included the categories of middle to top
and middle to base. Oils listed this way can serve as either note
depending on the other oils with which you want to blend them. For
example, in a blend of ylang-ylang, lavender, and mandarin, ylang-
ylang with its middle to base range functions as the base note.

Of course, in addition to creating nice-smelling blends we have the
extra dimension of magical intentions to consider. Because of this,
using the classic top, middle, and base notes should be thought of
as a basic roadmap. For example, I can plan a blend with rosemary,
nutmeg, and jasmine because they suit my intention for clarity and
protection in dream work as well as a basic range of three notes:
middle top, middle, and middle base, respectively. A blend with
petitgrain, pine, and lavender, top, middle top, and middle notes,
respectively, shifts the scale upward but still maintains a three-note

spread. Don’t be afraid to experiment with the note ranges, have fun,
explore, and you will be rewarded.

Where necessary to avoid confusion, I have maintained details to
distinguish between the species of plants such as spike and true
lavender because they have different notes.

Likewise for angelica seed and root oils and a few others that also
have different perfume notes. In the case of eucalyptus and fir where
species have the same note—middle top for blue gum and lemon
eucalyptus and middle for balsam and silver fir—it should be
understood that the single entry of eucalyptus or fir applies to both
their respective species. To conserve space I have abbreviated
some of the details especially in Table 5.1. For example, Blending by
Perfume Note 65

instead of chamomile ( Roman), cedarwood ( Virginia), or eucalyptus
( lemon), you will find chamomile ( R), cedarwood ( V), and
eucalyptus ( l), and so forth.

Table 5.1 Perfume Notes of Essential Oils

Top

Middle to Top

Middle

Middle to Base Base

anise

angelica ( seed)

allspice

angelica (root)

amyris

bergamot
basil
caraway
benzoin
birch
cassia
bay
cardamom
cananga
frankincense
fennel ( sweet)
cajeput
carrot
cedarwood
labdanum
hyssop
camphor
chamomile ( R)
chamomile ( G)
myrrh

lavender ( spike) catnip
cinnamon
clary sage
oakmoss
lemon
celery
clove
cypress
patchouli
lime
citronella
coriander
helichrysum
sandalwood
mandarin
eucalyptus
cumin
jasmine
spikenard
orange ( bitter)

grapefruit
dill
lovage ( root)
storax
peppermint
lavendin
elemi
pepper
turmeric
petitgrain
lemongrass
fennel ( bitter)
rose ( Maroc)
valerian
rose ( Damask)
litsea
fir
ylang-ylang
vetiver
sage ( common)

lovage ( leaf/
galangal
stalk)
spearmint
myrtle
galbanum
spruce
pine
geranium
yarrow
rosemary
ginger
tagetes
hops
tea tree
juniper
thyme
lavender ( true)
lemon balm
marjoram

mugwort
neroli
niaouli
nutmeg
66 Blending by Perfume Note
Table 5.1 Perfume Notes of Essential Oils (continued)
Top
Middle to Top
Middle
Middle to Base Base
orange ( sweet)
oregano
palmarosa
parsley
sage ( Spanish)
savory
star anise
When you begin mixing with this method it is best to keep it simple
by using only
three oils in a blend. In this way you will learn how each oil functions
as its intended note and you will be better positioned to combine

multiple oils of the same note in more complex blends. Unlike the
botanical family and scent group blending methods where oils have
similar constituents and will generally blend well together, this
method has more chance of error. Because of this, the trial test with
cotton swabs or blotter strips before actually mixing the oils can be
helpful to catch a less than desirable blend. However, if you’re on the
fence and not sure if a blend would work, go ahead and try it
because it may really blossom when it matures. The situation to
avoid mixing oils is when your reaction to the swab test is “wow, this
is not going to work.”

The simple rule of thumb for blending by perfume note is 3-2-1: three
drops of the top note, two of the middle note, and one drop of the
base note. Even though the top note may be strong, it is more
fleeting and can work in a higher amount. However, when a top note
is particularly strong, proceed as you would with the other methods
by adding one drop of each oil at a time. Once you have one drop of
all three notes, add one drop of your middle note and then one of
your top note. If all seems well, add one more of your top note.

Sometimes you may find that a reverse formula is more to your liking
especially if

you want to emphasize the lower note. Follow your nose and
proceed slowly when add-

ing drops as you work out your blend. When you are happy with the
results, follow the same procedure as detailed in Chapter 2 for
assessing and allowing the blend to mature.

Some individual oils become deeper and richer over time, which will
further enhance the development of the blend. These oils include
frankincense, jasmine, patchouli, rose, and sandalwood.

Blending by Perfume Note 67

As with all methods, this is a starting point. After creating a couple of
blends with three oils, you may want to experiment by doubling the

number of oils for each note. Oils that seem to take over a blend can
be tempered with others such as pepper, lemon, or geranium to
create more of a balance. You will also find that an emphasis on
base notes can create a more spicy or earthy blend. While lavender
and sandalwood are a wonderful and traditional combination, you
can jazz up this mix by adding a lemon top note. In addition,
lavender and sandalwood can be used to enhance and bring out the
beauty of other oils, while rosemary and marjoram can help smooth
a blend.

Of course, the oils you use for a blend will also depend on how they
fit with your purpose. As with blending by botanical family, you may
find that you need to include supportive intentions and powers when
oils for all three notes do not share the same associations.

Table 5.2 provides information on which oils work particularly well
together according to perfume note. Each row is dedicated to one oil,
which is noted in bold underline type-face under its perfume note
category. The oils are listed alphabetically down through the table.
As in other chapters, this table provides a sampling of combinations
to help you get started and contains some abbreviations.

Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note

Top

Middle to Top

Middle

Middle to Base

Base

lavender ( spike),

bay

Allspice

pepper,
labdanum,
orange ( bitter)
clove ( bud),
ylang-ylang
patchouli
neroli
bergamot,
citronella,
lavender
cedarwood
Amyris
spruce
lavandin
( true), ginger,
oakmoss
palmarosa
lavender ( spike),
cajeput,
coriander,

Angelica (root)
patchouli
lemon
lemongrass
lavender ( true)
clary sage
bergamot
Angelica (seed)
geranium
cedarwood,
oakmoss,
lemongrass,
mugwort
clary sage
patchouli,
pine
vetiver
Anise
eucalyptus ( bg),
cardamom,

angelica ( root),
oakmoss
mandarin
grapefruit
carrot,
rose ( Maroc)
coriander
68 Blending by Perfume Note
Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note
(continued)
Top
Middle to Top
Middle
Middle to Base
Base
bergamot,
Basil
geranium,
clary sage
oakmoss
hyssop, lime

citronella
opopanax
lemon
Bay
lavender ( true),
cypress,
frankincense,
pine, rosemary
orange ( sweet)
lovage ( root)
labdanum
cassia, lemon,
grapefruit
fir ( balsam),
Benzoin
birch, myrrh
rose ( Damask)
neroli
jasmine
Bergamot

basil,
dill, juniper,
chamomile ( G),
patchouli
petitgrain, rose
grapefruit,
neroli,
pepper
( D)
lavandin,
opopanax
tagetes
pine, rosemary
clove, juniper
benzoin,
Birch
jasmine,
ylang-ylang
bergamot,
Cajeput

lavender ( true),
cedarwood,
labdanum
lavender ( spike) pine, rosemary
niaouli
ylang-ylang
Camphor
caraway, ginger, chamomile ( G)
frankincense
bay, cajeput
lavender ( true)
bergamot,
citronella,
cardamom,
Cananga
labdanum,
rose ( Damask)
lavandin
lemon balm,
jasmine, pepper

oakmoss
neroli
anise, cassia
basil
Caraway
chamomile ( G)
frankincense
orange ( sweet)
cassia,
bay
Cardamom
cedarwood,
frankincense,
mandarin,
ginger, parsley
ylang-ylang
patchouli
neroli
bergamot,
grapefruit

Carrot
cedarwood,
frankincense
lavender ( spike),
cumin,
cypress
lime
geranium
Blending by Perfume Note 69
Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note
(continued)
Top
Middle to Top
Middle
Middle to Base
Base
Cassia
grapefruit,
clove, ginger,
benzoin
frankincense

lavandin,
lavender ( true)
rosemary
lemon, lime,
Catnip
cardamom,
myrrh
peppermint
eucalyptus
lemon balm
bergamot,
citronella,
fir ( balsam),
Cedarwood (A)
amyris, vetiver
spruce, yarrow
rosemary
juniper,
jasmine
palmarosa

rose ( Damask)
citronella,
lavender ( true), Cedarwood (V)
amyris,
rosemary
palmarosa
benzoin,
patchouli
cypress
lemon
Celery
coriander,
lovage ( root)
oakmoss
pine, tea tree
lavender ( true)
bergamot,
camphor,
geranium,
Chamomile (G)

patchouli
lemon
tea tree
lavender ( true),
benzoin,
neroli
jasmine
bergamot,
camphor,
Chamomile (R)
clary sage,
frankincense
rose ( Damask)
tea tree
cumin,
rose ( Maroc)
tarragon
mandarin,
lavandin,
Cinnamon

benzoin,
frankincense
orange (sweet),
thyme
(bark)
fir ( balsam)
spruce
clove, elemi
lemon, spruce
rosemary,
Cinnamon (leaf)
cedarwood
frankincense
thyme
clove, neroli
( Atlas),
ylang-ylang
bergamot,
Citronella
coriander,

cedarwood
amyris
lemon,
basil, pine
geranium
peppermint
70 Blending by Perfume Note
Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note
(continued)
Top
Middle to Top
Middle
Middle to Base
Base
hyssop, sage
basil, lavandin,
lavender ( true),
Clary Sage
frankincense,
( common),
pine, tagetes

sage ( Spanish)
cypress,
sandalwood
yarrow
jasmine
mandarin,
bay, cajeput,
Clove (bud)
rose ( Maroc),
patchouli
rose ( Damask)
myrtle, tea tree
allspice
ylang-ylang
cassia,
cajeput,
Clove (leaf)
clary sage,
sandalwood
peppermint

grapefruit,
nutmeg
rose ( Maroc)
lavandin
bergamot,
celery, pine,
Coriander
cypress,
amyris,
petitgrain
tagetes
neroli,
jasmine
frankincense
opopanax
anise
lavandin,
Cumin
chamomile ( G)
rosemary

galbanum
lemon
bay,
marjoram,
Cypress
sandalwood
lavandin, pine
palmarosa
benzoin, clary
sage
bergamot,
eucalyptus ( l)
Dill
pepper
spikenard
lemon,
lemongrass
elemi, nutmeg
spearmint
lime, mandarin,

eucalyptus ( l)
Elemi
pepper
frankincense,
sage ( common)
rosemary
lavender ( true)
myrrh
lavender ( spike), Eucalyptus (bg)
lavender ( true),
cedarwood
oakmoss
lemon
pine, thyme
marjoram
lemon,
Eucalyptus (l)
geranium,
jasmine,
frankincense

spearmint, rose
pine
palmarosa
rose ( Maroc)
( Damask)
bergamot,
basil
Fennel (bitter)
pepper
frankincense
lemon
marjoram
Fennel (sweet)
basil
cardamom,
rose ( Maroc)
sandalwood
anise, lemon
geranium,
parsley

Blending by Perfume Note 71
Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note
(continued)
Top
Middle to Top
Middle
Middle to Base
Base
lavender ( spike),
pine
Fir (balsam)
benzoin,
sandalwood
peppermint
lavender ( true)
cedarwood
fennel ( sweet),
pine,
Fir (silver)
benzoin,
labdanum

lemon
rosemary
galbanum
cedarwood
bergamot,
bay, basil,
elemi, neroli,
angelica ( root),
Frankincense
orange ( bitter)
camphor
opopanax
benzoin,
myrrh
pepper
lemon, lime,
lavandin,
Galangal
patchouli
sage ( common)

litsea, myrtle
allspice, parsley
spruce
pine
Galbanum
lovage ( root)
frankincense,
geranium,
storax
tarragon
bergamot,
grapefruit,
Geranium
rose ( Maroc),
myrrh,
rose ( Damask)
lemongrass
clove, neroli
pepper
patchouli

lemon, lime,
litsea
Ginger
rose ( Maroc)
vetiver
rose ( Damask)
orange ( sweet)
anise,
Grapefruit
galangal,
cypress
frankincense
bergamot,
bay, rosemary
neroli,
lemon
palmarosa
lavender ( spike),
lemongrass,
chamomile ( R)

Helichrysum
labdanum,
lemon,
litsea
rose ( Maroc)
oakmoss,
vetiver
lemon
bay,
Hops—lemon
litsea, pine
balm, nutmeg
Hyssop
bay, myrtle,
geranium,
clary sage
bergamot
rosemary

lavender ( true)
lime, petitgrain, eucalyptus ( l),
chamomile ( R),
Jasmine
birch, storax,
rose, spearmint
litsea
coriander
cedarwood
vetiver
( Atlas)
72 Blending by Perfume Note
Table 5.2 Oils that Combine Well According to Perfume Note
(continued)
Top
Middle to Top
Middle
Middle to Base
Base
bergamot,