Nightmare Travels on a - South American Explorers

Nightmare Travels on a

I \ / I 1 1 1 £* A Geological Field Expedition
in the Venezuelan Andes

by Hugh Mitchell-Tapping

he dark-brown mule is stub- fourlegged step, and for hours now I've Going up. The author seated, heading to the
born, but fortunately been braced for a fall. I plan to roll off the Teleferico, onlyfour saddle hours away.
surefooted, as the narrow mule against the rock face (or is it an
pathway winds around, up outcrop - it really doesn't matter). I have on a very steep downhill slope - too steep
and down the steep-sided been riding (maybe that's not the right to walk. Sweat rolls down my back as I try
mountain. At 4,000 meters word) for hours. I am notjust saddle sore. to swing off to the left. No way. I lay back
there's a precipitous drop The stirrups are adjusted too high for my on the mule's rear, the saddle digging
on the right-hand side ofthe height. My legs are paralyzed. This is it. into my back, the too-short stirrups shin-
trail. Fear grips me at every The mule goes down on its knees. We are ing at eye level. I can't breath or even

SOUTH AMERICAN EXPLORER

MA R CA R IBE 50'

OCSANO ATLANTICO

Topo map of Venezuela

utter a squeak at this altitude. "What around the ubiquitous Simon Bolivar Most ofthefieldwork ofknown outcrops
damn idiot suggested this fool trip in the Square, and on to the lodging house. suggeststhat the two formations are sepa-
first place?" There, we all pile out of the jeeps and rate, the Caparo (Ordovician-Silurian)
staggeraround. With circulation restored, being an older cycle with the Mucuchachi
This geological exploration ofthe Ven- we laugh to relieve the tension ofthe ride. a much younger cycle in the Upper Paleo-
ezuelan Andes is my first ever atop a Little do we suspect that this minor in- zoic. Unfortunately, both hypotheses are
mule. The plan calls for visiting various convenience has been a dream trip com- in accord with known data, but at the
outcrops, travelling up and down moun- pared to what lies ahead. present time the only known fossils are
tains at heights ranging from 2,500 m to from high in the upper Mucuchachi. Any
4,700 m. The trip is part of a study by Why, you may ask, are we here? known lower section is metamorphosed.
Retog Inc., ofthe Geology and Hydrocar- Well, many researchers overtheyears It is hoped, indeed, it is one of the objec-
bon Potential of Venezuela. We have have investigated the geology of the tives of thisfieldtrip, that the concept of
already sweated in the mosquito-ridden Andes, especially some oil company ge- time-equivalency will be supported by
Orinoco and gotten sunburnt in the ologists. Results of thisfieldwork have obtaining fossils from some unreported
Coastal Ranges and the Maturin Basin been published and various interpreta- outcrop ofthe lower Mucuchachi forma-
(but that's another story). tions of ages and depositional environ- tion. We therefore plan to search for
ments advanced. For example, in 1964, another outcrop, north ofthe type locali-
I feel considerable apprehension at Creole and Shell Oil geologists pub- ties of Mucuchachi and Caparo forma-
myfirstintroduction to the trail marked lished an article correcting previous in- tions, somewhere southeast or northeast
out on the topo sheets. It's all very ambi- terpretations and age determinations. of El Morro in the Los Nevados moun-
tious and getting to the targeted outcrops Fossil collections, identified as Devo- tains. Ifsome diagnostic fossils are found
in the rainy season, which has already nian, have prompted the same compa- it will be scientifically most important
started, looks formidable. nies to correct (perhaps to rectify, or even and will be a real scoop for the study. We
retract, would be more appropriate) the had a marvelous scoop during the field
With travel permits and papers in study on Trinidad by finding an unre-
hand, we leave Caracas in a rainstorm It seems everyone is ported oil-seep in a previously uncon-
whichfloodsthe carburetor in the van. infected with a hacking sidered area.
We are travelling the main highway
(Route 5) to Barinas, an oil center near cough ameliorated to As anyone knows in fieldwork,
the Andean foothills in the Llanos some extent by rum. Murphy's Law and the Law of Three's
Barinas-Apure basin. We stop here for often prevails. First, we had the flooded
the night. Next morning, we make our ages ofthe fossils to Ordovician, Silurian carburetor. Now what?
way along the Transandean Highway and Permo-Carboniferous, based on the
(Route 7) to the provincial capital of fact that the original investigations were Our arrival in El Morro is unexpected.
Merida at 1,625 m elevation. We leave carried out by paleontologists inexperi- The letter, sent months ahead, has not
Merida in four-wheel-drive vehicles, enced with Paleozoic faunas. These new made itup the trailfromMerida ("through
crossing a major basement fault and onto findings have led to a pronounced revi- rain and storm and sleet and gloom of
the Lower Paleozoic Mucuchachi forma- sion of the regional stratigraphy and n i g h t . . . " but not the El Morro Trail)
tion. A dirt and rubble road, washed out paleontology. and so the lady of the inn is rushing
in some places, takes us to the village of around cleaning and preparing a meal.
El Morro high in the Andes (2,700 m). This revision has also led some to Nobody minds, and the local rum helps to
This part of the trip is the beginning of postulate thatthe Caparo and Mucuchachi raise our spirits. They need a little rais-
the nightmare. In places, the track is formations are now time-equivalent: ing. Rains have washed out our trail to
rubble and the jeeps, at times, are bal- which means that the two formations the south and some mules and the
anced on two wheels literally inches represent distinct facies within the same muledriver have colds. High here in the
away from a drop of more than a thou- Paleozoic basin. If this is so, then I mountains, it seems everyone is infected
sand meters. Engine power and the obvi- propose that the position and configura- with a hacking cough ameliorated to
ous experience of the guides is all that tion of this basin qguld not have changed some extent by rum. A hurried confer-
saves us from total panic. No one speaks. appreciably throughout the time of these ence is called, along with another drink,
With lips parched and hands chalk white two Paleozoic sedimentary cycles: this to decide tomorrow'saction. Life, herein
from gripping the rollerbars, we look out concept may have major implications for the Andes, is simple and stressless, and
on a view that is truly spectacular. At oil exploration of the Paleozoic Andes solutions to problems are obvious ...
long last, after about three hours (or is it concerning both source and reservoir. bolivars change hands. We will be on our
years), the track widens to about 3 meters way with fresh mules, a baggage donkey,
and we can see the church spire and some and two short horses. We also change the
roof tops of the village of El Morro route. We will be going to the village of
perched on a ledge in the distance. We Los Nevados (2,711 m) for an overnight
drive along the village's stone main street,

SOUTH AMERICAN EXPLORER 7

SIERRA NEVADA ANDES

MARACAIBO LLANOS

- - = FAULT A= PALEOZOIC P = PERMOCARBONIFEROUS FR = JURASSIC/CRETACEOUS

C = CRETACEOUS j = TERTIARY

Geological cross-section of (he Nevada Andes.

stay, and then onto the Merida Teleferico older members, to struggle along with the can catch up with them on the mules
(a cablecar) atLoma Redonda, a two-day cameras and packs. By the time we all down the road. Okay. That sounds good
mule ride of 18 hours. AtLoma Redonda assemble at the trail to meet the mules to me. Ahead, I can see the steep upward
at 4,250 m, we take the cablecar down to and horses, we are sweating and breath- path that looks like it has to be climbed
Merida (1,577 m), a glorious 40-minute ing hard. We take offour coats and heavy rather than walked. Already I'm feeling
muleless delight. The cablecar travels jackets, apply heavy doses of sun lotion the altitude. So it's decided that the two
12.5 km, the longest and highest in the and don hats against the strong sunlight rambos go on ahead while I and my
world. At the highest station a beauti- and slight breeze. The townsfolk come colleague ride in style. Ten minutes later
fully-carved statue of the Virgin of the out of their houses to see us off, and I can we catch sight of them in the distance
Snows stands on a large pedestal. Off in not help wondering if they, too, think us struggling up the steep slope, stopping
the distance looms the snow-covered top crazy. frequently to rest, unwilling to meet de-
of Pico Espejo at 4,765 m, crowned by a feat. At length, they pass out of sight.
huge bronze statue of (you've guessed it) Where are the mules?
the ubiquitous Simon Bolivar. Having breakfast, of course. Mean- Where are the mules?
while, the guide is stuffing all our bag- At last, some dark-brown, sturdy-look-
The sun rises, putting an end to the gage into two large fish-net bags, tied ing animals appear. I look at the thin legs
noises of the cockerels and dogs. Previ- together like two large balls. We're ready on one and quickly choose the stronger-
ously I heard crowing and barking dur- now. looking one. The one I choose seems
ing the night in the Caribbean. There it gentle enough. It stands silently as the
served to drive away the mongoose Where are the mules? saddle is tightened, the stirrups lowered
(mongeese?) from the hen houses, but An animal appears. Gray in color and to their fullest extent.
why here in the mountains? unshod, it does not look like a horse. I
check its back for the markings of the This is it! My first mule ride. Okay.
As we step outside, the morning sun cross that determines a donkey. There Now to get on ... and stay on. With my
blinding us in the clear air, wefindthat they are ... but everyone insists it's a camera around my neck and hanging
we can move normally at this altitude. mule. Nowjust hold on. I have seen many down my back, I put my right foot in the
Higher up it won't be so easy. We collect donkeys and this animal is a donkey. stirrup, conjuring up an image of John
our baggage and drag ourselves uphill Suddenly the animal in question notices Wayne... and childhood memories, too,
through the village and around Simon the baggage, backs away and lets out an of circus clowns who mounted right up
Bolivar Square to the start point. Even unquestionable bray. I know then I am and over the animal and landed on the
this proves exhausting and we must look right. Our guide laughs. The baggage ground. Up I go and... drop back down.
like mules (asses?) to the local popula- must weigh about 150 kilos and that The saddle, it seems, is not tight enough
tion. I wonder why the mules or at least before we add watermelons and other and slips towards me. No problem... the
the baggage donkey are not with us, but edibles. muledriver holds onto the pummel and
the guide has other plans. Some of the signals me to try again. I grab the saddle
young gung-ho members of our party are Where are the mules? and swing up, this time onto the animal.
eager to start and convince the guide and The two younger members ofour group Hooray! I make it. Now to get balanced
muledriver to help them with their bags. are now chafing-at-the-bit and too eager and hang on. My partner is not so lucky.
This leaves us, the bigger, slower and to get started. Someone suggests that His mule is not having him on his back at
perhaps they should walk on ahead. We

8 SOUTH AMERICAN EXPLORER



any cost. The guide and the mulednver There, far above, I can make out the From the top we can see the two rambos
try to quiet the animal, but give up in the horses and some figures waving at me. in the distance, about 2 km away as the
end. They decide on the horses. No prob- Behind me, the donkey is approaching crow flies or about 10 km on the ground.
lem here. He is soon mounted on one of fast, and nearly upon us. We move to one Turning around, I note that the second
these small-as-a-mule, sleek-skinned ani- side and let him pass, and my mule mule is being put to good use - not for
mals. We're off. follows it down to a mountain stream for riding, but for pulling the guys along
a drink. I feel in need of something with its tail. Hour after hour goes by as we
The rambos have nearly an hour stronger. I sit atop the mule as he drinks, climb, descend, cross streams, climb,
headstart. Surely we can make that up, well aware ofthe impossiblity of getting descend, cross streams, climb... We stop
mounted as we are on these animals and off without some assistance. A few min- at many outcrops along the way to collect
at this altitude. We approach this first utes later the others arrive. All are on samples. Collecting is easy at these out-
slope. The donkey is out front, the horses foot, and I can't help overhearing that my crops ... you only have to lean off the
behind and behind them the two mules colleague and the guide intend to stay mule to grab a sample or hit the rockface
followed on foot by the muledriver. I that way. They are clearly impressed by with a hammer and let the others collect
wonder about this arrangement... but not my near-miss with death and theriskswe the sample from the ground as they pass.
for long. Up the slope we go. Halfway up are takingridingthe horses in these hills. Taking photographs is another matter,
my mule decides he's had enough and It is not so much theclimbing but the mad unless you have wings or a macro lens.
stops. I urge him on. No go. I flick the dashes down the trail that are potentially The pathway is so narrow and the
reins on his rump. Nothing. He jerks his so catastrophic. rockface so close that only oblique photos
head around to look at me, still chewing are possible. These are not too good when
on the bit. Have you ever noticed how Good grief!... he is developed. Then too, there's another dif-
soulless a mule's eyes are? Everything I mounting the horse ficulty that I had not foreseen - the prob-
try, and this includes digging in my heels with all our baggage lem of changing film on top ofa mule. It
as they do in rodeos... none of it works. just so happens one always runs out of
Even encouragements like "gee-up" or on his back. film at unfortunate places, like going
a clicking of the tongue have no effect., uphill or downhill. Try changing film
until... all ofa sudden he moves, or rather Having gotten this far, I have no astride a moving mule while keeping an
bolts forward. At the same time I hear doubts who is the master, who is in eye out for obstacles. Luckily, I have an
this strange low noise which sounds like charge, and what the pecking order is. automaticcamera that can be loaded with
kissing. It's the muledriver emitting this Above all, one thing is evident. The one hand. Loaded, yes. It's the exposed
peculiar sound which produces an im- muledriver does not want us to dismount film that's tricky. Once, I came close to
mediate and salutatory effect on the at any time on the trail. Isn't that wonder- swallowing a roll ofEktar while loading
animal. I hang on, my fingers grasping ful. Here I am, technically out of control a roll of Gold. And if taking still photo-
the pummel, trying to maintain my bal- - at the mercy of an animal with soulless graphs is iffy, taking video is nigh to
ance as the animal overtakes and surges eyes. I look ahead at our route, climbing impossible, unless you're partial to spec-
past the horses, up and over the top ofthe up for about 1,500 m and realize, with tacular, blurry scenes ofthe mountainside
hill. Over thebrowofthe hill, the narrow dismay, that for the next two days I will as you shoot down hill. Looking through
trail heads downward for about two kilo- be a virtual prisoner on the back of a a viewfinder, keeping the camera steady,
meters before going up again. Off to the beast, my fate in its feet. selecting the right shot and maintaining
side, the drop is at least 1,000 m, and I one's balance might be done with four
have problems hanging on while lying on There's a commotion up ahead. The hands and one's butt superglued to the
my back atop a heaving mule. Behind donkey carrying all the heavy baggage is saddle. After negotiating thefirstmoun-
me, someone shouts. No time to turn making amorous advances to one ofthe tain, I stowed all the large camera equip-
around now ... but how to stop this ma- horses. Good grief!... he is mounting the ment carefully away, after first making
chine... it's on a roll, bounding down the horse with all our baggage on his back. sure it faced the right side ofthe donkey
trail. Desperately, I hang on ... the Now that's a sex drive for you! The and would not be scraped against the
mountainside opposite flashs upward ... muledriver shouts and whacks the don- rock face along the trail. A good idea as
my legs and fingers ache from the tension key back to reality. Waareall left stunned. far as it went. Unfortunately the mule and
... my body is sweat-soaked in the hot There is so much to learn about life- donkey liked to race past each other for
sun, and the only sound is the mule's without-rocks on this trip. leadership. As they bumped together, or
hooves crunching the rock rubble as it forced their way past us on the narrow
slides and stumbles downthe slope. Then, I make it up the next mountain all trail, our legs got repeatedly smacked
at last, blessed silence. The mule has right with the others trailing behind. with cameras and, what hurt worse, tri-
stopped. We made it. Goddam, we made pods.
it. I relax a little, sit up in the saddle and
look back. Finally, after what seems like all day,

10 SOUTH AMERICAN EXPLORER

we stop for lunch. The two rambos are jerky) and many gallons of water from a pummel. My mule has put his head down

there and help me off the mule as my legs waterfall pouring off the mountain, we and plods on.

have kind of gotten locked-up in the all set offagain - our target: Los Nevados, The terrain levels out and I take the

stirrups. I stagger up the hill following somewhere out there in the far blue yon- opportunity to adjust my rump on the

the others to an abandoned shell of a der. My legs feel better and some sensa- saddle, loweringfirstone cheek then the

farmhouse. We are to rest here for an hour tion has returned to my whitened fingers. other. I also try standing in the stirrups to

out ofthe cold wind that has just started On the other hand, the base of my spine keep the circulation going in my legs.

blowing. We are all hungry, yes, but even is still very tender. I mount my steed (I'm This helps and we are making good

more thirsty. Everyone time, this time, across the

wants water. The guide hills, not up and down. But

passes out the plastic cups. all good things come to an

We all wait in parched end. After only a few hours

anticipation. Even the we start the final ascent to

horses are quiet. Then, our Los Nevados. For nine hours

guide announces that and more I have been staring

someone has forgotten the at the ground and ears of the

water. Oh my God! mule. This animal is my life.

Murphy's law is alive and Its short mane is full. There's

well in Venezuela! No a small white spot between

water! Well, howaboutthe the ears which look healthy
watermelons? There's a
rush. We pounce, with and intact. I've always heard
knives drawn.
that, whenfighting,these ani-
As luck would have it,
the watermelons are sour. mals go for the ears. Mine
The strong sun's rays have
done a number on our only mustbea championas it never
water supply. Well, noth-
ing for it except to chew on passed up an opportunity to
some US-made jerky. Big
mistake! Now we're thirsty bite the horses when it could.
and badly dehydrated. We
look around at each other I stroke its ears, soft enough
and know we're all think-
ing the same thing ... we on the inside, but bristle-like
are going to have to drink
from the mountain streams, on the outside. The mule is
just like the mules. Of
course, the water tablets are not amused. Turning to look
at the bottom ofthe bag and
the mule with the bag is at me, it bares some ugly
down the hill. And nobody
is in the mood to unload yellow teeth ... as much to
that particular mule (what a kicker - he
should have played for the Cowboys). So, say, "hands off man! unless
after hearing all the stories and reading
all the books ... here we are. Still, the PALEOZOIC FOSSIL LOCALITIES you want off". I settle back
locals drink the water and they look IN THE RIO CAPARO AREA to being a piece ofbaggage as
healthy enough. But are they? Well, here's
mud in your eye! One month's time will we move slowly, but
tell. I try to remember ifit was the bacteria
or the worms (I remember the worms in © CAKBONirEAOUJ surefootedly, up the moun-
China) that did you in. Too bad. Pass the © tainside and on to Los
rum, it should kill anything. © OROOV1C1AN

After the non-lunch, (except for some Nevados. Ahead I can see

Los Nevados, but it will be

**«. nearly another hour before I

v\ can get off this beast and
crawl to the inn.

Paleozoic fossil locations in the Los Nevados. Sounds like a lost
Caparo River area, southeast of goldmine in New Mexico, doesn't it?
There is no goldmine, but at least we get
El Morro to stop. It's cold, wet, and, at 2,711 m, the

probablyjust another piece ofbaggage to air is unbreathable. We enter the village,
him), and set off after the others. The go around the inevitable Simon Bolivar
weather changes, of course, as we go Square with church, and continue uphill
higher. Then the itin starts and the wind to the inn. One of the rambos has run
chills us through our shirts. We've put on ahead and is waiting for us, cold beers in
plastic coats but, perched high up on the his hand. I hate beer, but that beer tastes
mule, the wind chills every exposed part, good! The inn is a courtyard surrounded
especially my hand, tightly gripping the by a building, much like an enclosed

SOUTH AMERICAN EXPLORER 11

lean-to, opensided at one end for the gether: I think I'm in the Kentucky Derby derriere are still sore from yesterday's
kitchen and at the other, for a mountain- as the mules and horses dash for leader- travails. My mule is also fairly docile
water bathroom. In the kitchen, a cheer- ship, jostling and barging their way and, to some extent, I can govern its
ful lady in a blue parka is cooking on a through. A bump against another animal forward speed by using kissing noises.
gas stove. We spend the night in a com- isn't too bad, but hitting another rider's Still, it does insist on following the bag-
munal room and after some stew we are leg and stirrup is something else. Getting gage donkey step for step. Later on I learn
all in bed, some ofus asleep with exhaus- your leg crushed and scraped can make my mule is a leader and every other mule
tion, by 6:30 pm. Others brave the cold you a little mad, and there's much shout- is following it. I am aboard the mule king
mountain-water shower. We laugh at their ing at people to keep their distance. But (King ofthe Asses?), and everything will
audacity while they scream. We consume who's in charge? Not the riders. No, each turn out all right, as the other animals
a breakfast of eggs and coffee in haste, animal is its own boss. It decides who it respect it or at least leave it alone.
gather our gear and make our way uphill will follow and which one is going to bull
to join the mules. its way to some position whatever the All of a sudden one of the horse darts
cost. There are some riders who imagine up the slope immediately in front of my
Today is different, I can tell. The they control their animals. They steer mule. Danger! Danger! Lese Majeste!
mules are ready. and guide with much swearing and curs- My mule is king. My mule is mad. No
ing, but all to no avail. At last the column overtaking here. My mule shoots up the
Today all of us have to ride mules and settles down. We all fall silent and nurse steep incline right up behind the horse
horses, for ahead is a steep climb, to over our bruises. The bumping and jostling and bites him on the rump. The horse
4,000 m, across loose rock and dangerous invariably takes place on the steepest of rears up. My mule turns around and lifts
stretches. It's not possible to walk over slopes or the narrowest of trails. I am up its hind legs. The horse slides down
most of the track through the gullies and fortunate to be riding a bigger mule with the slope,riderand all. Breathless, I find
up the mountainsides. We start out to- a more comfortable saddle. I'm probably myself perched on my mule on the edge
more deserving anyhow, as my spine and of the slope facing the wrong way. My
Going down, Viewfrom the saddle: ahead is the mule brays and resumes its leadership.
sexy donkey with the baggage; behind, the thirsty

mules heading downward to a stream.

12 SOUTH AMERICAN EXPLORER

The other animals go on as ifnothing has on to the Teleferico. Ourjourney is over. that it's over? Is it just an indelible
happened, while the horse, with the rider We have left the beasts ofburden (or was memory, maybe a yarn at the fireside or
now remounted, continues once again up it beasts from hell), and are now in the local pub? Really, was it that bad?
the slope. safe clutches ofcivilization, once more in
control of our destiny. Yes. Yes. Yes.
After 6 hours of sunburn, freezing But, you may ask, did we achieve our
wind, cold rain and no water (except for Was this nightmare trip really, now objectives?
the mountain streams), we are moving
along thefinalkilometer. Ahead we see Location of the Paleozoic outcrops in the Merida area;
the large Cross of the Andes, along the shaded area is shown in the following figure.
paramos (high pass) atop the highest
ridge, marking the highest point of our ^ _ UNCONFORMITY:
trail. We are passing along the core ofthe £ " 4 MUCUCHACHI FORMATION/
Andes. The metamorphosed rock glis-
tens in the sunlight... it also glistens in ^ ^ BASEMENT.
the rain and mist... on the track, in the
outcrops and on the distant hillsides. So
this is the Caribbean Series silvery mica-
schist of?Pre-Paleozoic -Paleozoic age.
There must be more than 1,000 m ex-
posed here. The mountains are com-
posed of a granite core covered by schis-
tose and gneissoid metamorphics: meta-
morphism which occurred during the
Carboniferous.

This last kilometer is a killer - no way
passable on foot. The trail is a moving
slope of rock. Fortunately, the mule
knows where to tread, strangely enough
following the donkey step by step. No
fool this mule. If the donkey falls, then
my mule won't. We literally slither up
the shiny loose rock bed, weaving our
way back and forth across and up the
narrow valley between two high shear-
walled peaks. At this height the animals
only take about four steps, then rest a
moment before continuing. My mule
never takes its eyes off the trail, while,
four feet in front of us, the donkey is
wheezing and puffing under its heavy
load, its oxygen-starved brain happily
not lingering on thoughts of sex. The
Cross looms ever closer in the mist and
we are near the end, I think.

Not quite. At the top we dismount and
rest. This is as far as the mules will go. It
is time to say goodbye to my mule, but
don't expect hugs and kisses from me,
you beast. We are now on our own. Down
we plod - a few hundred meters. About
two kilometers away we trudge around
La Cueva de Calderon (a beautiful lake),
through some coloradito trees (a tree
growing at the highest altitude in the
world) growing in sheltered spots, and

SOUTH AMERICAN EXPLORER 13

Maybe. After all has been said, we did has come. This is science in the making. DISCOUNT
complete the trip and obtain about 50 Are we about to change the world as it is AIRFARES
avoir-du-poid pounds of rock samples. now known?
CENTRAL
What now? As I look at each glass slide, I can
Homeward bound to post-mortem, to interpret its uniquely numbered code and &
analyze and hypothesize once more. But tell the day we collected it. Immediately
what have we accomplished? memories come flooding back - that SOUTH
In all we spent weeks in the field damned mule is haunting me once again. AMERICA
travelling by planes, cars, jeeps, boats, I am apprehensive as I look into the
bongos, horses and, yes, the not-ever-to- scope, fearing some ghost-like mule will • Low Prices
be-forgotten mules, guided by topo- appear in view. A sharp shiver runs down • Group
graphic and geologic maps, GPS, com- my back - those soulless eyes are haunt-
passes, Indians and donkeys. We suf- ing me again. Finally I focus the slide and Discounts
fered the stings, burns, and freezing rain go to work. • Tour Packages
of mountains, jungles and beaches. We • Cruises
stood on the world's oldest rocks of The samples of the Mucuchachi For- • Special Interest
Gondwana, saw the night-flying sonar- mation are metamorphosed. No discern-
emitting guachero, viewed, on a fly-by, ible fossils here. No problem, as there is (climbing,
Angel falls, trekked though the mist and information in the literature to establish photography,
water behind Sapo falls, bongoed down its age. railroads, etc.)
the Orinoco, tented and hammocked in
thejungle, in mountains and on beaches, Now for the Caparo slides. Oh, dear. Odyssey
and finally slept through the quiet air- Nothing here either. But wait, what is Travel
conditioned night at an exclusive luxury that near the top corner of the slide? It
hotel on the Caribbean shores. appears to be two small triangles (ears!) 1-800-395-5955
atop a round brachiopod remanent (face!).
The results, at least for the Andes part Are those two dots in the center, eyes? 9 AM - 5 PM
of the trip, is that we have now No, it can't be! It looks like a mule face! Mountain Time
goundtruthed all the remote sensing I pull my head away from the scope, wipe Monday - Friday
(LANDSAT) and air photo geologic data my eyes, change to crossed-polarization
and collected rock samples, to boot. It is and inserta retardation plate. Everything
nearly time to make ourfinalinterpreta- changes color - it is beautiful. As I turn
tions. The proof of the pudding is in the the revolvable stage to extinction, that
eating - we have to make the petrological same damn mule face comes into view.
interpretation. Was our original hypoth- My mic (pronounced "mike") is
esisright?Remember the one I made in haunted! I clean the slide, the filters, and
the beginning? the lower stage lens. I look again. Now
the mule is blind!!... no eyes!!!
As a micropaleontologist, I know the
answers lie in the petrographic But so am I. No index fossils - no
thinsections. What remnant index mi- evidence - no National Geographic - no
crofossils, if any, will be exposed in the Nobel prize, no nothing.
wafer-thin slices of our rock samples,
once examined under the high power But still, it was a damned good valid
lenses of the petrographic microscope. hypothesis, and will remain so.
Making rock thinsections is time-con-
suming, tedious and requires care and Perhaps next year another trip?
skill. Each sample isfirsttrimmed with NOT.
a saw. Then one side is ground down
until polished. Finally the whole sample About the Author:
is embedded in epoxy and affixed to a
glass slide. After curing for a couple of Hugh J. Mitchell-Tapping has a M.S
days, this sample is thinly sliced parallel
to the glass slide with a special diamond and Ph.D in geology from Florida State
saw and ground down, using many grit
sizes, until polished. University and has worked overseas in

Everything is now ready - thefinalday many countries, including three years in

China. Dr. Mitchell-Tapping is pres-

ently a consulting geologist and has over

50 professional publications and seven

geologic country-study books, but this is

his first non-technical article. •

14 SOUTH AMERICAN EXPLORER