One of the biggest parts of any such H-D celebrations is the parade on the Saturday of the week, at which thousands (literally) of riders form up and tour the city on a pre-planned route, and I’m guessing it’s this that, effectively, prevents there being a UK-based event of this size – I mean, can you imagine any London mayor, no matter who it is, giving the go-ahead for the best part of 10,000 riders to do any form of loop around our capital? Or, given the fact that London resembles little more than a massive car park on even the emptiest of days, that thousands upon thousands of bikes would even be able to get around The Smoke’s crowded streets? No, I don’t think so either… Anyway, the Budapest party – that’s what it was; a party on a massive scale whose theme was HarleyDavidson motorcycles. Après-event figures are reckoned to be in excess of 100,000 attendees, from more than 50 countries, over the weekend of June 22-25 and, given that just about everywhere you looked there were Harleys (every street in the 203 square miles of the twin cities of Buda and Pest seemed to have at least three of them, often many more), or people in biker tee-shirts, it wouldn’t surprise me at all. When myself and another proper bike journo’ flew in on the Thursday, Budapest airport was most definitely ‘biker airlines’ – so many people queueing up for passport control had Harley or other bike-related tee-shirts that even the dimmest holidaymaker could tell there was something big happening. Being driven to the event, at the Puskás www.mslmagazine.co.uk 51
Aréna Park, Hungary’s national football ground, we probably saw more of America’s favourite motorcycles than a lot of people will see in their lifetime, and that deep, sonorous, thunderous rumble was to be the background soundtrack to the whole weekend, no matter the time of day or night. At event ground-zero at the stadium, the doublewide street outside was lined two deep each side, and about four deep in the middle, and inside its environs it was crazier: countless trade stands, bars, food vendors; a noticeably large number of stands selling wine (European Harley riders are obviously cultured souls…); a massive main stage and concert area (and at least two other stages I saw, there may have been more); a huge beer tent; a freestyle motocross and stunt bike area; a huge indoor hall with every model in the H-D range (including the first European viewing of the all-new 2023 CVO Road Glide and Street Glide) for folk to sit on; a through-the-ages display going right back to the days when William, Arthur and Walter worked out of a small shed; and an impressive display of really high-end custom bikes from all over Europe, including all the entries for H-D UK’s recent Trailblazers custom competition for Pan-American 1250s. Outside, there was a huge ride-out area where you could try every bike in the range out on the streets of Budapest, and the Livewire electric bikes, too, and not far away was an on-road/off-road course where 52 Motorcycle Sport & Leisure – established 1962
you could put a Pan-American through its paces. They’d laid on a host of top names from the music industry to play for the masses each evening, including Airbourne, The Darkness, Wolfmother, and Glenn Hughes’ Deep Purple, as well as a plethora of local and national Hungarian bands. It wasn’t only the rock stars who were… well, the rock stars either: Chairman and CEO of Harley-Davidson, Jochen Zeitz, and Karen and Bill Davidson, fourth generation direct descendants of the Davidson family, took to the stage on the Saturday night to rapturous applause. I’m getting a little ahead of myself though; as I said you could ride a new Harley on a pre-planned tour, led and run by local H.O.G. members, and we did a couple of hours on the Friday out to a worldrenowned bear sanctuary, The Bear Farm, a very unexpected and welcome trip. I didn’t do the parade on the Saturday, preferring instead to watch and photograph it, and I have to say that what I saw blew me away. The pre-amble to the parade was such that the section I was on (there were two legs to the www.mslmagazine.co.uk 53
parade) took up three full (and long!) city streets, and walking up and down them taking pictures was a real pleasure – everyone was patient, and happy to have their photo taken, and even when the off was signalled, the run took over an hour to get the last riders moving. It was a real spectacle, seeing so many Harleys all gathered together in one place, and my face hurt slightly that evening from smiling so much. It’s reckoned that more than 7000 motorcycles took part in the ride through central Budapest, applauded by huge crowds of local spectators. That evening Jochen and Karen and Bill presented various awards on the main stage, and picked the winner of the bike folk had been buying raffle tickets for all weekend long – a limited-edition 120th Anniversary Heritage Classic which was won, amazingly, by someone from these shores, and who was as excited to win as you can image someone at such a massive and overwhelming event like this would be. Congratulations to him! As I said, folk came from all over the world: the US, Australia, South Africa and Singapore, but the dedication award must go to the guy from Egypt who rode 7500 miles each way to get there – 15,000 miles for a weekend event? That, ladies and gentlemen, is truly what you call dedication! If you want to see what one of these massive Harley events is like for yourself, well, I’m afraid you’ve missed the even bigger Homecoming in Milwaukee, but you can get along to next year’s 30th anniversary H.O.G. Rally (free, and open to all riders, not just H.O.G. members) at Senigallia in Italy over the weekend of June 6-9. Go to the Harley-Davidson website at www.harley-davidson.com and click on the European HOG Rally link. ■ Thanks to Harley-Davidson UK for the invite/ accommodation/access.
Inspiration ◆ Your rides ◆ Places to go e love to read about our readers’ rides and adventures. Whether it’s a local bimble to your favourite spot; a week spent touring and exploring; a one-off trip of a lifetime; or anything (and everything) in between, if you have a two-wheeled story to tell we’d love to hear it, and share it on the pages of MSL. You don’t need to be a professional writer. We will give you a brief to follow, and edit your words before publishing. All you need is a good route, a destination, or a story to share, with plenty of quality photos to help bring the words to life. Most of our articles are either rides that you can do in a day, somewhere between a weekend and a week, or anything over a week. Basically, if it’s a ride you enjoyed, the chances are that other motorcyclists would, too. Sadly there are no pay cheques for the writers, but if your story gets printed, we’ll give you a free 12-month subscription to MSL (or one of our sister titles). A Day Ride feature is normally between 1000-1200 words, and in the region of 20 pictures (not all will be used, but the more we have to choose from the better!). For a Mid Ride feature (one that usually involves an overnight stay), we tend to have a similar word count but with a few more images, while the Long Ride is more for the ‘trip-of-a-lifetime’ type rides so up to 2000 words and lots of pics! Pics need to be the original, non-edited, non-resized images. So, gather together your photos, tap away on the keyboard, and drop us a line at msleditor@mortons. co.uk to get the editorial wheels rolling. We look forward to hearing your story! ve Manning Editor, Motorcycle Sport & Leisure Tell s abou your ride! Share your travel story, and bag a free mag subscription Scan this QR code to be directed towards the routes that have appeared in previous issues of Motorcycle Sport & Leisure
The Camera Ride Ulm, where the camera was born lm has a truly massive church, with the tallest church spire in the world (allegedly), but most of it is covered in scaffolding. In the town I find a leather goods shop with a well-used 500 Enfield parked outside. By Sunday Ulm is busy with tourists, so I decide to go for a ride to explore some of the local country and villages. Blauburen is the first village I ride into and it has plenty for me to explore, and the first thing I find is a plaque to a previous motorcycle event. Plaques commemorating motorcycle events are not so common. Then I visit the Abbey, which was originally Catholic and was founded in 1085. It was okay for nearly 500 years until the Reformation came along and then it became Protestant. If you have nothing to do for the rest of your life, you could try to get your head around European religious and political history, as it seems that there was usually a war going on and there were times when they were fighting two or three wars all at the same time. Countries and dynasties were arguing with each other and religious and ethnic groups were not happy, and an awful lot of people died. In the late 1400s, while all that was going on outside, a bloke called Jörg Syrlin the Younger was doing an David made it to Ulm, where his camera was manufactured. Now time for more history! WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY: David Champion An earlier version. An Enfield 500 from a while back (in Ulm) No one complains about the food, well, not twice (in Ulm) Plaques commemorating biking events are not so common Rain, cobblestones, a bicycle and an umbrella, what could possible go wrong? (In Ulm) amazing job of carving the choir stalls in the chapel. And one of his mates got completely carried away painting the ceiling. An amazing place and well worth €5. Enough depressing history for today, I ride further up into the hills, about 2500 feet up according to the map, with great views and wonderful roads all the way, a thoroughly enjoyable 100-mile ride today. Back in Ulm, my photography is going well. I visit the City Archive where the staff are incredibly helpful, and they find four photographs of the now long gone camera factory! Exciting for me, and my camera, as this was the point of the trip. After a week in Ulm I am heading for the hills again, taking the scenic route to Stuttgart. I think I could go on doing these country roads forever, but soon I am presented with the chaos of a big city. Garmin helps me easily get to my friends’ Faye and Ulrika’s apartment. Another proper bed tonight. Stuttgart is well worth a visit with plenty to see and do, including the TV tower which has great views in every direction. After a couple of days in Stuttgart I head north to a town called Bad Kreuznach, which is located to the west of Frankfurt, and this is where the lenses for my camera were made! The factory is still there and I had to take a photograph – which was taken PART THREE You have to be impressed by a 600-year-old wood carving TOUR WITH A PURPOSE www.mslmagazine.co.uk 57
on the camera through the lens that was made in this factory – to add to my story! The ride today is on good roads through some neat villages, ending at another gorgeous campsite beside a river, and the owner tells me they had bad storms yesterday. The following morning my friends in Stuttgart tell me they have heavy rain. How did I miss all this? Up bright and early, now I am heading west and still finding great roads. It’s getting hot so I am really glad to be climbing into high, wooded hills, but eventually I have to drop down to the Mosel valley and the heat at Treben-Trarbach. I stop for lunch and push on, following the winding river before turning away and climbing steeply, but the heat does not go away. After Closed Road #LostCount sends me round in a circle, I have to have a break in a wonderfully cool forest before carrying on to Kyllburg, where I will camp for two nights. Another nice site by a river. But because it is in a steep valley it traps the heat, which is helped slightly by some rain in the evening. I can hear thunder but it never comes here. The next day is an exploring day. First the village of Malberg and the large Schloss (castle) on top of the hill, before I ride up to Nurburgring. Wow! It has changed since I was last there in 1990 on my Gilera Saturno. It is like a small town now, and it was in the middle of some big corporate event so I could not look around much. I have now found where all the bikers are camping. It is a large site right at the circuit, but I am staying a couple of miles away, and to continue my 1950s-themed trip I stay in a Wa Wa 180 caravan, built in Belgium around the same time my camera was being built in Germany. I can’t show you a picture of the caravan because it has modern awnings which hide it, but I do take a couple of pictures that show the lovely 1950s plastic, the Formica topped kitchen area, and the picnic hamper crockery set that could only have come from the 1950s. The racing has all the variety that I What is there not to like? That guy could be building my camera! Photo courtesy of Stadtarchiv Ulm. Now it is time to head through Luxemburg and into Belgium. By lunchtime I am in Luxembourg and then suddenly the perfect road surface is gone as I pass a sign that tells me I am entering Belgium. I do not need the sign to tell me. Belgium has always had some less-than-perfect roads and this is one of the worst. I am soon getting fed up of pot-holes and bumps, but it does improve eventually. The country is much flatter now with gentle hills, woods and fields. I am spending the weekend at Chimay because the city is holding its annual street circuit bike races. 58 Motorcycle Sport & Leisure – established 1962
expected, with some very fancy bikes, including a Patton and two Kay replica MV3s which are not just there for show. The MVs with open megaphones are without doubt the loudest thing on the track. There are Triumph and Laverda triples and plenty of older singles and twins including a very standard-looking Enfield twin, which still has its bacon slicer front number plate. How did that get through scrutineering? I never managed to find it in the paddock and it was not in the programme so I can’t tell you any more about it. The number of racers and spectators is impressive, including plenty from the UK. I got some great action video on my phone but it does not transfer to print too well so you will have to make do with a still picture. The road bikes were as varied as the Stuttgart from the top of the TV tower They get everywhere 1950s plastic at its finest The Schneider factory at Bad Kreuznach Evening in Kyllburg racers, and I particularly liked a well-used BMW boxer with a BSA tank and Velocette fish-tail silencers. I don’t spend the entire weekend at the circuit because Chimay has plenty else to see. If you go there you really should visit the chateau, which has a long and interesting history, including having been the home of the woman who stopped the French Revolution. I had never thought about how or why it ended. I leave on Monday morning with just one more night and two days’ riding left. Today is a short day’s ride to Laon in France. The ancient town covers the top of the biggest hill for miles, so there are more impressive views and a couple of massive churches to look at. Another good campsite finishes the day nicely. My last day is largely running my first day in reverse. I spend the morning riding through fields and small villages and get to Peronne for lunch, and then it is the mainly flat country back to Calais. Wheat fields are being harvested across Europe and I meet plenty of massive tractors towing massive trailers full of grain or piled with hay bales. I see a farmer using a very old tractor and suddenly I have travelled back in time; this scene could be from 65 years ago. Maybe then there was a guy on a 350 Enfield riding across France with his tent and maybe he has his newly-bought German camera in his bag, and he watches a local farmer harvesting his field. I don’t think it gets much better than this. I have covered 2000 miles and I can honestly say it has been some of the best touring I have done and TOUR WITH A PURPOSE www.mslmagazine.co.uk 59
apart from some uncomfortably hot days and not getting into two museums, it has gone perfectly, and I haven’t even had to put my waterproofs on. Now it’s just the tunnel and the ride home to London. I get to Calais fairly early with a hope of getting an earlier train, but I am greeted with apologies for delays caused by some unspecified problems. However, once through, I get to Folkestone about an hour late and discover that the M20 is closed. Ah well, no big deal, I will go on the A20. The A20 is fine until Ashford, which is now a mass of huge roads serving retail parks and trading estates; signs for the A20 are notable for their absence and in the dark I could really do with some help. I should have programmed the Garmin but I thought I knew where I was going. There are signs for Canterbury so I follow them for a while. Well, to cut a long story short, I end up on the A2, which nearly gets me home before I find that it, too, is closed and I have to divert around the South Circular. Closed roads have followed me for the last three weeks so one last diversion is not a surprise or a problem because now I know all the back streets although, like all the other closures, there is no signposted alternative; what do they expect people to do? When I am riding I often find myself singing. I am sure I am not the only one. The song seldom has anything to do with the trip, it just pops up. They say that in space no one can hear you scream, but on a motorbike no one can hear you singing badly, which is a good thing because on this trip I have been singing pretty loudly. Oh yes, the point of this trip was to visit the town where my camera was made and to take black and white photographs on that old camera. I got to the town and came home with 22 rolls of 36 exposure film. I have developed them all and am pleased to announce they came out well! Next month I will share my thoughts on the 350 Enfield; European laws and bureaucracy; using a sat nav; riding on the back roads and camping in Europe; oh, and the history of the Grin Break. Whatever it takes to keep it going In Laon, the street of a thousand lampshades Enfield twin racing They have been doing it for 50 years Nurburgring with Gilera Saturno in 1990 Nurburgring 2023 60 Motorcycle Sport & Leisure – established 1962
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iving right on the edge of the English/ Welsh border is most definitely a benefit for those of us who like to ride motorcycles on challenging and interesting roads. It’s a benefit of living in any nice place, and while we don’t necessarily take advantage of such a situation, I’ve decided to endeavour to search out each and every piece of pleasurable Tarmac that is in within, say, 100 miles of my front door, with the idea being that each and every one of those miles is an enjoyable one. Consequently, I’ve discovered some great routes through Shropshire and into Wales. Some of which MSL readers will be aware of, either through their own experience or by word of mouth, or by reading about them in these very pages, but some are a little less well known. This particular day out, with two good friends, was to be a mix of exploration and jumping on well known and favoured roads, the idea being that we’d start off by trying some roads that were new, and then heading home the way that we knew! So we started by heading westwards from Whitchurch, on the superb, although occasionally busy, A495 to Ellesmere, resisting the temptation to stop for an ice cream by the mere. We then rode on to Oswestry, after the left-right by the castle in Whittington and a brief blat between roundabouts on the A5, and then out towards Welshpool on the A483, before turning right at It’s easy to stay with popular routes and roads, but often the best road is the one less travelled North Wales loop WORDS: Andy Burns PHOTOGRAPHY: Andy Burns & Chris Gollins 62 Motorcycle Sport & Leisure – established 1962
A5 A5 A495 A494 A470 A483 Llyn Tegid etws-y-Coed Llangollen Ellesmere Whitchurch Shrewsbury West Kirby Rhyl Oswestry Eryn National Park (Snowdonia) F S Be Llanclys crossroads, back on to the A495, and then another right on to the B4396 and then the B4391. There are no end of explorable lanes that divert off this route and, rather than continue onwards towards Bala (as per the Welsh Winter Ride previously featured in MSL) on the B4391, we turned left at the first sign towards Lake Vyrnwy, which took us to the southeastern corner of the lake. We had lunch at the lake, then took a ride round the lake before choosing to go over the mountain pass which dropped us down into Bala. We went straight through Bala, and took the first sign right towards Ffestiniog. This is the higher road (in terms of altitude) towards Ffestiniog, and not only does it have an amazing surface, but also the views and corners are stunning, and it is very quiet apart from the sheep on the road… on this particular day ROUTE DOWNLOAD ww w m. slmagazine.co.u k /MAPS TOURING & ADVENTURE www.mslmagazine.co.uk 63
there were a lot! Once we arrived in Ffestiniog, and thinking that a brew was in order, we tried to find the Ffestiniog Lake Side café… but we missed it! Being rather averse to stopping for a proper look, or to ask for directions, we just carried on riding, which is no great shame in this stunning part of North Wales, and ended up coming out at Betws-y-coed! While the name is a derivation of the Welsh for ‘prayer house in the woods’, it’s now become pretty much the outdoor capital of Snowdonia, so Betws-y-coed isn’t short of shops or eating establishments, and we had refreshments at a hotel in the middle of town. Although thanks to the desire for snacks, we did get caught in some rain when leaving Betws-y-coed, just enough for the stretch material in my new two-piece leathers to show that there is one point that lets in water immediately (yes, the crotch!). The return trip home was along the fantastic A5, and while it is now pretty much all 40 and 50mph limits, and a route favoured by tourists so having a lot of campers and caravans, it’s still a nice road to ride, running through stunning forestry alongside the River Conway to start, before climbing to Pentrefoelas and the higher moorland to Ceregydrudion, and then dropping again, this time to run alongside the Afon Ceirw before the traffic lights where the A494 from Bala joins the A5. Then, past the buffalo at Corwen (yes, real, live buffalo are farmed here!), and on to the sweeping curves by the River Dee and Llangollen railway before we stopped for fish and chips at Nemos in Llangollen, which was fantastic! While there may seem to be something of a focus on stopping for a cuppa, or a pint, or a fish and chip supper here, these are really just excuses to stop and talk about how great the roads are, how it is possible to escape the tourist traffic, and how amazing this part of the world really is. TOP LEFT: Yes, another snack stop! This is at Lake Vyrnwy ABOVE: Way off in the distance is Cardigan Bay, and Anglesey BELOW LEFT: The high road to Ffestiniog BELOW RIGHT: The valley mountain road between lakes Vyrnwy and Bala 64 Motorcycle Sport & Leisure – established 1962
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Who is Millington? Richard Millington has been riding for more than 30 years, touring for more than 25, and has never looked back. He’s the founder of Motorrad Tours, and has ridden on five continents, guiding motorcycle tours in Europe, Africa, North and South America and Asia. www. motorrad-tours.com offers a wide range of adventures, with something for every rider... Richard Millington headed off to a few music festivals over the summer, it becoming a regular thing over the last few years. I have always been a lover of music, especially live music. The difference between recorded music and live is the same as watching a documentary about Yellowstone and riding a GS through it. The recorded version may be more perfect, more produced, but the live version is, well, live. My love of music has meant for many years now I have had music in my crash helmet while riding. Never anything new that requires concentration, but lots of old favourites that I can enjoy with no mental effort. One of the benefits is that certain tracks become associated with certain places. Hearing them will take me back instantly to that ride, that road. Sometimes it is the song that imprints itself on the road, sometimes the road on the song. I’d been on the road for over two months and we were due to ship bikes from Panama City to Bogota for the second half of the expedition. Panama City is the first real, high-rise city we’d seen on the entire trip, standing out like the carbuncle of dirty foreign money that it is. There was only one song on repeat as we rode into the city, Van Halen’s ‘Panama’. Excited, yet frustrated with the place, shouting the lyrics in my helmet was a therapeutic release. Some songs like this are a round peg in a round hole, an obvious fit. Some become so. I was working on the North Africa section of a round-the-world trip over a decade ago. It was December and, as the clients were flying off to South America for the next leg, I had to return a support truck and a couple of bikes to the UK. It was snowing in France and at home and by the time I would get back it would be just a couple of days before Christmas. It is as close to 2000 miles from Marrakech to my house as makes no odds… ‘He’s gone two thousand miles, It’s very far, The snow is falling down, Gets colder day by day.’ Thank you, Chrissie Hind and the Pretenders. Almost a decade before that was the first time I ever went to Morocco and the first time I had ridden outside of Europe. In my mind’s eye I can still see the stretch of desert piste in the Sahara to our Riad as I sang along with the Kaiser Chiefs. ‘Oh my God I can’t believe it, I’ve never been this far away from home.’ Sometimes it is the other way round; the song imprints itself on the place for no reason than it fits. Riding in Alaska, The Yukon and British Colombia gives a new perspective on perspective. These are vast lands, scarce of human habitation with hundreds of miles between towns. The scenery is stunning but empty, if you discount the mountains, trees and lakes. To give you some idea, on our first day on tour in Alaska we ride a little over 300 miles. After mile 14 leaving Anchorage there are three turns for the rest of the day. A couple of fuel and coffee stops, a few small settlements, some seemingly abandoned, and just beautiful nothingness, space and distant horizons. Into my helmet years ago came ‘Resurrection’ by PPK, the Paul Oakenfold remix. An instrumental bit of trance music. It is big and wide and somehow stretches to the horizons. It suited the ride, the road and the seemingly limitless sky. For me the two are forever linked. Even at seven minutes long it took a lot of repeats to get through that day. Sometimes they sneak up on you and this happened on the Dong Van Karst Plateau in Vietnam. I am a great fan of the original Marillion line-up and have their first five albums loaded as a set on to the GPS to play on the bike. On a stunning clear day riding through otherworldly scenery, Fish sings in my ears, ‘This is not Vietnam you know’ and I scream back: “Oh yes it is!” I can’t really share why Lilly Allen’s ‘F..k you very much’ is associated with a bit of the Dalton Highway, but it will forever be so in my head. ‘Tonight is going to be a good night’ was an uninspired choice to become an anthem at BMW Motorrad Days. Its predecessor was far more entertaining when played every year in the party tent. Why was Smokie’s 1976 hit ‘Living Next Door to Alice’ such a big hit at a bike festival in a small town in Bavaria? There are no biking lyrics or links. It was the simple fun, for the majority German audience, to sing it back to the band… “Who the f…k is Alice!” The schoolboy pleasure about being able to swear in another language apparently crosses borders. Music is part of the travelling experience for me. The backdrop to the backdrop. Whether the songs are old favourites that will never be tied to one place, or songs that imprint themselves on a place, the music adds another element to the journey. Tune them in for inspiration and added emotion, tune them out when you need more focus on the ride, it happens automatically. Music makes the wheels go round and, for many, is the soundtrack to their ride… The music of motorcycles SUBSCRIBE ON PAGE 28 RIDE MORE Spend less and ride more with a subscription 66 Motorcycle Sport & Leisure – established 1962
It’s getting where to ge Riding those roads, feeling your bike run beautifully in t gorgeous British countrysid your own or as part of a gro getting out and riding is wha live for. We’re sure you will have y favourite routes and regular rides, but if you are looking f few ideas on where else to what to do, where to chat t like-minded folk and perhap just have a great brew at a p which guarantees a warm welcome on a chilly autumn then this is the page for you You can always find some interesting roads to and fro any of these great venues, it’s also worth bearing in min chilly... so here’s t a warm welcome he e. On up, t we our or a go, o s lace day, . m and d that when you get there, chances are you’ll find some fellow bikers keen to chat about your machine, your route... and share their own experiences too. As you can see from the map, there are cafes, bars and venues all around the UK which are perfect for a visit. So go on, support these venues which love their bikers... get out there and pay them a visit, you will not be disappointed! 4 2 3 6 5 1 3 5 4 1 2 6 www.mslmagazine.co.uk 67
here are some rides that always appear to be on your to-do list but never actually get ticked off. I’m not talking about bucket-list destinations such as, in my case, the Andes or Himalayas, nor quit the job, sell the house, or write the book adventures that take up most of my social media feed. Rides that are too long to fit into a normal weekend but need to be longer to justify inclusion in the annual ‘Motorcycle Tour’. In my case, it was to follow a river from the source, or as close as I could get, to the point it joined the sea. I live in Poland and wanted to follow the Vistula from where it starts in the south to the north, where it flows into the Baltic. The idea was to use the journey to visit areas of Poland I was unfamiliar with, but the busyness of life seemed to keep getting in the Much like mountains need to be climbed, so rivers need to be followed… Source to Sea WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY: Tim Evans ABOVE: The Jeziora Czernianskie reservoir BELOW: Aries Hotel and Spa, Wisla 68 Motorcycle Sport & Leisure – established 1962
way. However, eventually, things started to align. Child one was out of the country on a school trip; my wife had a lull in her work, allowing her to become acting dog walker and cat feeder; whilst child two could hardly contain her excitement at the prospect of a dad-free few days. A hotel was hastily booked for the first night and, before I knew it, I was on my way. The Vistula is Europe’s ninth longest river and carves an imprecise S shape through Poland. Once navigable for much of its length and an important trade route, the lower reaches have suffered from aggradation and are unsuitable for small boats. The river features in various Polish myths and legends and is associated with national identity and culture, some of which I wanted to tap into during my journey. This began in the town of Wisla, in the Beskid mountains. These run along the border between Poland and the Czech Republic. It is one of my favourite parts of the country for taking my bike. The geography resembles North Wales, with well-surfaced, curvy roads lined with pine trees. Without being obsessive, I wanted to get as close to the river’s source as I could. There are two, the Little White Vistula and the Little Black TOP LEFT: Parked amidst woodland, close to Wisla TOP RIGHT: The White Wisla, as close to the source as possible ABOVE: Sparring stags at Hotel New Wave RIGHT: Hotel Diament, Ustron TOURING & ADVENTURE www.mslmagazine.co.uk 69
Vistula. So, on the first evening, I rode around Jezioro Czerniańskie (Black Lake) along a single-track road that kept the White Vistula company until the road disappeared. After a walk next to the stream, I returned to the bike, turned round and retraced our route, passing the shuttered cafés waiting for the summer tourists to wake them from their winter slumbers. A quick bite to eat was taken in Wisla before parking the bike at the hotel and an early night. The first day proper of the trip arrived with North Walesian weather dominating the outlook. Heavy drizzle, drifting down from clouds low enough to reach from the room’s balcony. With breakfast taken and waterproofs donned, I set off with enthusiasm for my voyage somewhat dimmed. A short stop to snap a few pictures of Ustron’s pyramid hotels did little to fire it back up again. However, as I rode north along the DW941 towards Skoczow, the weather began to lift, and by the time I had passed Strumien I risked a stop next to Goczalkowice Reservoir for a derobing of my wet weather gear. The Vistula by now had turned eastward, setting its sights on Krakow. Following the DW933, I had a leisurely time riding on some lightly trafficked country roads until I came to the town of Oswiecim. As I entered the outskirts, I rode alongside a tall wall topped with barbed wire, signifying the boundary of the infamous complex of Auschwitz. Having previously spent time there paying my respects to the over one million people murdered due to the complex’s role in the Final Solution, on this occasion I did not stop. I did, though, spend some time at the memorial to those who died in the Monowitz labour camp – the rubber factory where Primo Levi was imprisoned and which was the setting for his autobiographical ‘Is this a man?’. Upon remounting my bike, I followed road 44 towards Krakow, aiming for my next destination, Nowa Huta. The 44 could be a lovely road to ride along if it wasn’t for the rolling roadblocks of HGV lorries and double white lines preventing overtaking, curtailing progress. I jumped on to a stretch of the Autostrada to leapfrog the southern suburbs of Krakow before parking adjacent to the snappily-entitled Plac Centralny im. Ronalda Reagana w Krakowie, commemorating the late American President’s visit to Poland. Nowa Huta was developed in the late 1940s as a socialist utopian ideal to provide housing for the workers at the nearby Lenin Steelworks. Incidentally, some conspiracy theorists in ABOVE LEFT: Subcamp to Auschwitz, this is the memorial to Monowitz ABOVE: Ronald Reagan Place, more eloquently known as Plac Centralny im. Ronalda Reagana w Krakowie BELOW: Sandomierz, with the town hall shown in the image on the left 70 Motorcycle Sport & Leisure – established 1962
Katowice Warsaw Lublin Sandomierz Krakow Wista Wroclaw Poznan Lodz Bialy Czestochowa Chelmno Wloclawek Mikoszewo Olsztyn POLAND 91 90 A1 A4 79 E77 S F A stop allowed legs to be stretched and dark black coffee to be drunk... Poland claim the steelworks were deliberately placed to pollute Krakow in punishment for the city being seen as the intellectual capital of Poland and, therefore, home to enemies of the Socialist Government. After a much-needed caffeine break, I headed towards my overnight spot, Sandomierz. This stretch of the journey was undoubtedly the highlight of the day. As I broke free from the last of the Krakow conurbation, the traffic began to thin out, and I rode on gently undulating roads bathed in early summer sun. I arrived in Sandomierz in sufficient time to dump my kit, shower, and then spend the evening exploring the small but delightful historic town. A leisurely but relatively early breakfast allowed me to set off with plenty of time in reserve to savour the second day’s travel. Or so I thought. About 15 kilometres after I set off, I realised I had left the charger for my iPad in the room, resulting in a U-turn and some progressive riding as I retraced the route. Once correctly packed and set for the da, I thoroughly enjoyed a morning ride along roads reminiscent of Kent, lined as they were with orchards, fruit fields and vineyards. Caffeine needs were sated in the small but perfectly-formed market town of Kazimierz Dolny. I really could have spent longer exploring the art galleries and strolling next to the Vistula than the hour my itinerary permitted. However, the clock was ROUTE DOWNLOAD ww w m. slmagazine.co.u k /MAPS TOP LEFT AND BELOW: Krakow’s historical district of Kazimierz RIGHT: Warsaw Palace of Culture, looming over another cultured edifice TOURING & ADVENTURE www.mslmagazine.co.uk 71
ticking, and the part of the journey I was least looking forward to was beckoning – a change of direction westward towards Warsaw. The central part of Poland is nobody’s idea of motorcycling heaven; it’s flat, and the local civil engineers taunt travellers with a game of ‘How many kilometres to the next bend?’ The answer is usually ‘A lot!’ However, it got me into Warsaw’s suburbs quickly enough before the capital’s traffic stalled me as I made my way towards the Palace of Culture and Science for a bite to eat and an obligatory photo session. The battle with some of Poland’s finest drivers continued as I headed out of the city and fought through the roadworks creating chaos around Modlin Airport. Once free of these, I headed towards Plock, past rolling fields of crops and, as I approached the town, through a pine forest that provided some respite from the sun. A stop at the small marina allowed legs to be stretched and dark black coffee to be drunk. A ride along the Vistula took me to my overnight resting place north of Wloclawek. The following day greeted me with another glorious sun-filled sky. It commenced with a short ride to one of the small, sometimes chain-driven, ferries that used to carry local traffic across the Vistula. I rode past Ciechocinek and its health spas before stopping at a viewing platform opposite Torun’s Old Town. A medieval city that is Copernicus’ birthplace and well worth a visit, particularly in October for the Speedway GP. However, other venues were the aim today, namely the Baltic. So, the Ducati was fired up again and I rode to Chelmno, another ancient town whose history includes being part of the Teutonic Knights’ state, where I halted for the morning’s coffee. A short ride to Grudziadz followed, where I crossed over to the west bank of the Vistula for an unexpectedly pleasant ride past Gniew and Tczew, a lovely sweeping road that was very lightly trafficked. The final part of my journey took me closest to the river apart from the first few hours of the first day, unfortunately. I saw little of it, as dykes several metres high blocked my view. The final kilometres took me through villages which were little more than a small cluster of houses. Another river crossing led me to Mikoszewo, a place to park the bike amongst the pine trees, and then a walk for the final kilometre to the Baltic. Time was spent contemplating my journey before a refreshing plunge into the sea. Afterwards, I took the ferry from Mikoszewo to Swibno, which gave me a view of the Vistula as it joined the Baltic. All that was left was a quick jaunt across country to the Autostrada Bursztynowa and a ride home that was more direct than scenic. In total, my Source to Sea ride was just over a thousand kilometres, and perfectly achieved its aim of showing me that there is far more beauty and history in Poland than first appears. It is a beguiling country and well worth visiting. ABOVE: Entertainment and floral displays in Chelmno BELOW: Mikoszewo, and the coast of the Baltic INSET: Journey’s End
ince 1977, following a two-up trip to Switzerland via Holland and Germany, I have always wanted to do another European trip. Then, after a three-week trip in a car to Tuscany in 2019, I just had to find the opportunity to do something on a bike. As with most people, motorcycles come and go through phases dictated by marriage, houses and children. Much time has passed and, coming up for retirement in 2017, I purchased the first of two R1200 RTs with the intention of fulfilling the dream. Two because the first was run over by a reversing truck! Plenty of UK trips followed, with a couple of North Coast 500 trips (in both directions), but I always remained in the UK. Four hundred or 500-mile days were quite common, as living in South West Scotland dictates 100 miles in any direction before the trip starts, and with family in Yorkshire (over 200 miles away), distance had never been a problem. Then along came family illness and Covid and, knowing that there was little chance of any motorcycling for at least a year, the bike was sold. As things improved in all directions and (coming up to age 70) I decided it was now or never. So, I suggested the idea of a motorcycle trip to the other half and was surprised by the response. “How long you going for?” and “Don’t expect me to come with you!” That was easier than expected. The question then was what bike? The R1200s were great on long runs but had been proving too heavy and cumbersome just moving in and out of the garage and, being short in stature, I could never touch both feet on the floor. Inspiration and ideas for a motorcycle trip can come from many things – friends’ experiences; magazine features; television programmes; or even previous trips, even those undertaken in a car… Too many years in the planning WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY: Donald Peers ABOVE: After some deliberation, a Moto Guzzi V7 became the steed of choice, and loaded with tank bag and waterproof roll-top tail bag 74 Motorcycle Sport & Leisure – established 1962
There are, of course, loads to choose from but I came down to a shortlist of two that would be good all-rounders when back home, both with low seats and many kilos less than the RTs. After test rides, it came down to a Honda NC750 DCT, which would just do anything without complaint, or the Moto Guzzi V7 Stone – similar power, low seat, shaft drive and with loads of character. Remembering a test drive on a Guzzi LeMans in the early Seventies, the V7 it was, purchased in January this year with 2000 miles on the clock at 18 months old. In hindsight, this was by far the right choice of bike for the French D roads. As the temperatures soared, I was glad it was a naked bike. The dream was to ride to France and Italy, with no motorways or tolls, and to go to Annecy (probably the most stunning place in France) and over the Petit St Bernard Pass to Aosta (another great town). Now, with a Guzzi the obvious ultimate destination was Lake Como and Mandello di Lario. The return would then be through southern Germany and the Vosges mountains. All this depended on weather, time and stamina, and an estimated two- or three-week tour planned for September. There was, however, also chance of a short trip in May to ‘try out’ the bike, having only managed 500 miles since purchase due to the terrible weather early in the year. How would it fair on long runs? How would I fair on a long run? May was fast approaching and with a 450-mile trip to Dover it became obvious that the long trip might as well be now. That was until the rain and floods in Italy and avalanche warnings in the Alps. So this was the first change of plan in the master plan. Let’s just do France, and possibly Belgium if time allowed. So, day one saw 450 miles from Stranraer to Faversham, mostly A roads and some motorways, then a stopover. Then day two was an hour run to Dover and over to Dunkirk. I think this is the best and most economical crossing of around two hours. Surprisingly, mine was the only bike on the boat that trip. A leisurely two hours on the other side on D roads, via La Coupole and Agincourt, arriving at a chateau near Crecy. Alas, I did not stay in the chateau, but in a converted outbuilding. I wasn’t sure where to eat but, advised that they have forgotten what happened to them at the battle there in Crecy in 1346, that was the ABOVE: Queueing for the ferry is a small price to pay when the trip’s accommodation includes the above! Although the chateau wasn’t the actual venue in this case... www.mslmagazine.co.uk 75 In association with
best choice. And not a longbow in sight. A great little town with plenty of choice and a museum about the battle as well. Day three’s early start was south via Rouen and Le Mans using D roads (much better condition than our roads) to visit the SOE monument at Valencay, to pay respects to what, in my mind, were some of the bravest people ever. It’s a huge monument with excellent parking and information. This proved a long 250 miles with the temperature rising to 27 degrees. The day had been great, travelling past fields and forests and dozens of interesting French villages, but gave myself little time to stop. Most villages seemed to have a pond with picnic tables, shade, free parking and the essential toilets if time had permitted. Brocantes in every village but no room on a bike for an armoire, and I hadn’t given myself time to stop anyway. Over a beer in a hotel (buy one, get one free at happy hour), that night I threw the plan out of the window. Why travel vast distances to see things, missing out on so much on the way? Plans are good, but should always be open to change. The advantage of booking one day at a time and travelling alone is that changes are easy. So, let’s spend more leisurely time in France. Turning north with a stop in Blois gave a very short day. Then on to Orleans, visiting Joan D’Arc and the cathedral. Are all French cathedrals built from the same plan? It’s a beautiful old town centre with a large, vibrant square and excellent market. No tomb for Joan as her ashes were thrown in the river after being burnt at the stake. The British have a lot to answer for, for their past behaviour… Then, skirting the east side of Paris and avoiding main roads, I headed back up to pay my respects at the battlefields around Péronne, Arras and Amiens. Stopping at a small village tabac for coffee, sitting in a wood with a jambon baguette, this is the way to travel! Vimy Ridge at 7am, with the mist rising, gave an idea of what it must have been like in 1914, and this was without the mud and bullets. The fields are still fenced off due to unexploded ordinance. By day seven it was still hot and, finding the distances more tiring than expected, I opted to turn for home and think about plans for the next trip. Not one drop of rain in the whole time, but the fine weather can also catch up with you. I never did get to Belgium, but then that can be ABOVE: The SOE memorial, Valençay, was initially unveiled 50 years after the despatch of the first agent from SOE’s F Section to France 76 Motorcycle Sport & Leisure – established 1962
Durham Manchester Liverpool Sheffield Isle of Man Stranraer Dumfries Birmingham Northampton Luton London Vimy Peronne Valencay Versailles Paris Orleans Nantes M6 M6 M20 A16 A10 A71 A1 S F FRANCE S saved for another time. It could become addictive, all this foreign travel. Next time (hopefully September) there would be little planning but would probably involve a day or two on a motorway then touring another region at leisure. I can no longer see the joy in hundreds of miles a day just to say that I have been and then moving on elsewhere. Stay and savour the area, finding things that you didn’t know were there. I ended up covering 2000 miles in seven days, with 1000 miles on this side of the Channel and 1000 miles on the other. The bike performed admirably, giving over 60mpg and proved comfortable for two-hour stints. I learnt a lot about over-planning! Reading some of the other tours in MSL tires me out thinking of them. At one time I would have covered the miles, but why not slow down, look around and enjoy what is here now, than what is 500 miles away tomorrow? Every new road is a challenge and the excitement is the surprise around the corner. ROUTE DOWNLOAD ww w m. slmagazine.co.u k /MAPS www.mslmagazine.co.uk 77 In association with
t was not a tough decision really. Having arranged to drop the T7 back to Uncle Yamaha for its 6000-mile service – signalling the end of the loan period – and asked as to whether I wanted to ride back out on another Ténéré? Thus the opportunity to see how the minor foibles that I had had with the T7, which were few and far between, had been addressed in progressing the Ténéré 700 World Raid. I have had some experience of the World Raid as detailed in Chris Moss’ ‘Tale of two Ténérés’ feature in MSL (No.753). Here he bought along a World Raid, I had my T7 and spent the afternoon swapping rides as we bobbed around Salisbury Plain. This was my first real experience of riding any Adventure bike off-road and feeling the additional weight that you need to master above that of the dirt bikes I was more used to. It is well documented that I have struggled with the weight of Adventure bikes, with the necessary skill needed to manage it in tougher conditions currently alluding me. Undeterred, I am now finding myself running a bike with the same capabilities as the base T7 but some 20kg heavier; I think this version will be remaining on the Tarmac predominantly though, as this will be a short stay in MSL. If you have followed my column on the Ténéré prior to this you will know how When it comes to Charlie continuing his education in Adventure bikes, the apple does not appear to have fallen far from the tree this time Yama a Ténéré 700 World Raid WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY: Charlie Oakman Charlie Oakman Charlie is a commercial chap who works across numerous motorcycle titles, including MSL. He has been riding sportsbikes for the last 15 years, raced CB500s for a bit, and is always up for new motorcycle experiences. So, we wanted to see if we could tempt him away from crouching over sportsbikes, and show him what fun being more, ahem, erect, can be. h 78 Motorcycle Sport & Leisure – established 1962
impressed I was with the basic model and the reticence to hand it back. Being handed the keys to the World Raid certainly softened the blow, offering enough familiarity to the base model to stop me pining for the past bike, whilst offering enough upgrades to make the World Raid different enough to change the riding experience. The first thing to expect jumping off the T7 and on to the World Raid is quite a substantial increase in size, both in width and height. Having never particularly struggled with the original ‘tens’ seat height of 875mm, the addition of 15mm has altered my perspective and has me shifting sideways to make sure I am planting my foot properly coming to a stop. The twin fuel tanks add to the width and as this model is sporting the Black Explorer Pack, including 74 litres of hard luggage pannier capacity, there is an increased width and presence at the front and rear end of the bike which has admittedly taken some getting used to, especially when filtering. Somewhat conversely, the additional height in the seat, due to the reconfiguration of the suspension and fuel capacity of this model, has also allowed for a more comfortable and slimmer seat that certainly adds comfort on longer rides. It also offers the opportunity to slide forward as the seat on the World Raid continues beyond where the fuel tank would have started on the 16-litre machines, this especially important in finding extra grip off-road. A major standout feature of the World Raid has got to be the additional range allowed by the 23-litre fuel capacity, some seven litres more than its contemporaries. This increase in volume has led to a necessary reconfiguration of the riding position; you now have extra seat pad in front of you as opposed to the fuel tank – being dual mounted means you now sit behind two tanks as opposed to on top of one. This does not affect your ability to grip the sides of the ‘tank’ with your legs when standing, but acts more as a kind of fairing when making progress which is a welcome improvement on the weather protection offered via previous models. The tank itself is fuelled via two openings which are, thankfully, hinged on to the bike unlike the removeable one on the T7 – that used to drive me mad as there was no obvious place to put the cap once removed. Filling the World Raid is a bit of a faff, unlocking and opening one side then needing to remove the nozzle and repeat on the other side for a total fill. This is necessary as the tank levels do not balance unless the ignition is on which opens a solenoid valve in the connecting pipe between the two tanks and finds the level. Another addition to the World Raid above Specification YAMAHA TÉNÉRÉ Price: From £11,910 Engine: 689cc, EURO5, 4-stroke, 2-cylinder, liqui-cooled, DOHC Power: 54kW @ 9,000rpm Torque: 68Nm @ 6,500rpm Transmission: Constant Mesh, 6-speed Frame: Steel tube backbone, double cradle Brakes: (F) Hydraulic dual disc, 282mm (R) Hydraulic single disc, 245mm Suspension: (F) Upside-down telescopic fork (R) Swingarm, link suspension Wheels: (F) 21-inch spoke wheels (R) 18-inch spoke wheels Tyres: (F) 90/90 – 21 M/C 54V (R) 150/70 R 18 M/C 70V Seat Height: 890mm Fuel Capacity: 23 litres MPG: 4.16 litres/100km Weight: 220kg (Wet) Warranty: 12 months plus extended option Service Intervals: 6000 miles/annual Contact: www.yamaha-motor.eu the base model is the introduction of an Öhlins adjustable steering damper which is there to provide you with greater stability in challenging conditions and terrains. This was certainly an additional consideration for Yamaha when you think they have added a full fuel load of over 16kg to muscle around off-road; that is an increase of 5kg of fuel to the standard model. That said, a full fuel load just around and about town is no small thing…. okay I may have had a full set of luggage when I stopped at this abandoned fuel station ready to make a quip about the additional World Raid Range and ‘never filling up again’, but there was no way I could get the bike up on the centre-stand (which comes as part of the Explorer Pack). In the end I had to take off the solid pannier bags – gave the people stopped at the red light in road works something to laugh at though I suppose. So, a positive start to my World Raid journey. I can see a lot of road miles over the next few months and see where they take me. There won’t be many people that have ridden two different Ténérés to their 6000-mile services in a single year which could be on the cards… a few fills to go yet though, no matter how big the tank is. www.mslmagazine.co.uk 79 UP FOR ADVENTURE
he commitment of running a competition bike is what led to the ‘More Sport, No Leisure’ title to these features, in a direct contradiction to the features written by Charlie Oakman. And I have found, over the last 10 months or so, that the time needed to devote to maintenance, repair and alterations to the Bandit has been significantly more than what I was expecting. Which makes it all the more frustrating that, after an arduous journey from east to west to the Isle of Anglesey and Trac Môn, I was met with weather conditions that actually resulted in some leisure time… Once again, I’d forsaken the Friday test day – with work commitments and cost both playing a part – taking the five-hour journey across country on the Friday afternoon, which actually resulted in eight hours of travelling… the test day had seen some decent weather but I arrived trackside just as it started raining, and as the wind was beginning to pick up. And up. I didn’t even consider unloading the van, rolling out the mattress beside the bike and getting my head down, although the way the van was being buffeted about by the wind did give a feeling of air travel – I’ve never felt seasick in a van before, especially one that was parked. Torrential rain and gale-force winds caused havoc through the night – gazebos The title of this series can sometimes bring an exception, as at Round 6 at Trac Môn… WORDS: Dave Manning PHOTOGRAPHY: Gordon Brady, www.gtbmotorsportsphotography.uk uzu Bandit 600, from road to track and tents scattered, awnings ripped asunder, and lots of sleepless nights. Although I was safe and sound in the ‘tin tent’. However, while the rain had abated, the wind continued to blow for all of Saturday. Blowing so strong that racing could not be considered. And so we all mooched, stood round drinking tea, gas-bagging, and trying to get a mobile phone signal. And watching Richard Hewitt running around the track in a mankini to raise money for Racing In Pink, a fundraiser for Cancer Research UK (more details on the Racing In Pink Facebook page). Whilst chatting I did discover that a few Bandit riders are using lower hot tyre pressures than I’d been using cold, so after 80 Motorcycle Sport & Leisure – established 1962 S ki
having a new set of Dunlop Sportsmart TTs fitted by AR Racing, I dropped the pressures to 28.5 front and 27 rear, cold. Keen to get out on track, I knew that I could improve on my previous best qualifying position of 16th. Not because I knew Anglesey really well, or because I felt on particularly good form, but because of the 14 entrants in the class… And the free practice that finally happened at about half four confirmed that, with a pitiful performance that saw an unconfident pilot wobbling around and initially thinking that there was something wrong with the bike’s handling. It improved with a few laps, showing that it was just me being a big jessie and, with a qualifying position at the very tail end of the grid, once more wondering if road racing was really the game for me. Sunday morning’s practice was a little better, albeit still at a woefully slow pace, so I entered the Newcomers race (the first of the day) to get more track time. Yet more confidence-sapping laps followed, with a big slide from the rear on lap three through the Target left-hander after the start-finish straight, and then another coming out of the Banking hairpin a lap later convincing me that I had an issue. I didn’t, aside from that of no talent. The first Bandit Challenge race saw me get a reasonable start but, as has become usual, those places were lost again very quickly. A lonely race, with the only positive point being that I was only lapped by one bike, that being a 400 and not a Bandit. Race two saw a better start, taking about eight places off the line. Which would have been brilliant but for the fact that by the time I’d got round to the Corkscrew on that first lap, all of those riders had come back past me. A couple of laps chasing Darren East ended in a loss of concentration (‘Ooh, look at the view over Snowdonia!’) which resulted in more lonely laps to the finish, although I didn’t get lapped at all! I’d consider this to be a bonus, but I am very aware that the race had actually been shortened due to a compressed schedule, and that the race winner (Chris ‘Eagle’ Edwards, again) was mere yards behind me on his final lap… The next round is the final one, at Cadwell Park. Being as it’s local to me, I’m hoping that I might be able to sneak in a track evening to gain some much-needed track knowledge and confidence. But to end this piece on a positive note, I have just this minute received an email from the ACU telling me that my licence has been upgraded and I no longer need to wear the orange novice bib, having completed over 10 race days at three different venues. So, while I may still be riding like a total amateur, I’ll not look like one… Series promotor and organiser Keith Chambers (54), brought his Bandit out of retirement for a play, here leading Tim Hawkins (35), Shane ‘Slim’ Watson (17) – all three being Senior class racers - and Arthur Moore (999) into the tight Rocket left-hander James Taylor (11) and Shannon Bishop (120) chase Craig Harris (96) around Banked, with Craigo wearing the ‘Racing In Pink’ tee shirt, of which you’ll see more of at the final round Thanks to: FORMULA PROSTOCKS RACING: www.fpracing.co.uk DUNLOP TYRES: www.dunlop.eu TOM AT HAVOC PAINT: havocpaint@ gmail.com and see Facebook GREG AT GMS MOTORCYCLE SERVICES: 07977 151433, see Facebook PAUL FRYER, BLACK & WHITE BIKES: 01507 588149 www.blackandwhitebikes.co.uk RICH HOCKING, CP RACETECH: 07528 513538, www.cpracetec.co.uk R&G RACING: www.rg-racing.com GORDON BRADY: www.gtbmotorsportsphotography.uk www.mslmagazine.co.uk 81 UP FOR ADVENTURE
Schuberth announced the ‘all-new E2 Flip Front Adventure Helmet’ at the end of last year, which coincided with my discipline change from a regular sport to adventure ride (as per the Less Sport, More Leisure articles), and having worn the excellent Schuberth C3, C4 and C5, I was keen to get my hands on it. Unsurprisingly, the E2 replaces the E1, a helmet that I understand had been welcomed and much celebrated by the Adventure market, and although not qualified to give a back-to-back review on these upgrades, having never worn the E1, I know the Schuberth quality that reversed my thinking, having been a flip front, drop-down visor and internal comms sceptic in the past. Having had such a success with the E1 when it launched in 2018, it was time to see something new from Schuberth and what it has delivered is a dual homologated flip front helmet that complies to the very latest 22.06 safety standard whether open or closed. The shell is constructed via glass fibre using an exclusive-toSchuberth patented technique developed in its own R&D department in Germany called DFP (Direct Fibre Processing), and rigorously tested in its own wind tunnel. Your first look at the E2 is testament to this development, with very clear aerodynamics throughout the build of the helmet with two large vents in the chin bar, a large air scoop above the visor and twin vents at the rear. The peak has had some significant work; twin scoops on the front and side which direct the air either towards the vent or down the side of the helmet, aiding stability in any of the three clicked positions that the peak can be set to with ease while on the move. The flip mechanism, like that of the C-range I am more familiar with, is operated with one hand that clicks an ample button at the bottom of the chin bar that can only be seen if you look for it. The majority of the designs available, which, unapologetically, carry the colourways of the most popular adventure bikes (the E2 Defender is very BMW), hide the fact that this is a flip front helmet as the mechanism and opening is hidden as part of the design. Open the lid, and the peak and visor move with it, stopping at the right point to allow it to lock in the open position. Bring it down again and you hear a pronounced and reassuring ‘click’ and, smartly, the visor and peak return to their original position. The clear visor boasts class one optics, delivering an exceptional field of view, and comes complete with a preinstalled Pinlock 120 anti-fog lens. The drop-down visor is effective and easy to operate via a sliding mechanism on the left-hand side (as you ride). There is a real pleasure to find riding with the front up, visor down, as long as you don’t mind your look – even Schuberth can’t improve that! Schuberth E2 Adventure helmet Tested by Charlie Oakman | £569.99 | www.bikerheadz.co.uk 82 Motorcycle Sport & Leisure – established 1962 Things we’ve worn ◆ Kit we like ◆ Things we put on our bike
The internals of the helmet are extremely luxurious (Oeko-Tex 100 Certified apparently), removable, washable and, for me, extremely comfortable from the off. A custom fit is available with the additional option of modifying the head pad for summer/winter riding via a tab that closes off the vent. The pads are designed to allow for those who wear glasses while riding. The E2 fits well and is held in place with a quick-release helmet strap which is part of the ‘Anti-Roll-Off-System’, ensuring the helmet does not come off in the event of an accident. It’s also very quiet, which is handy if you are looking to utilise the pre-installed HD speakers and antenna of the latest Sena 50s software additional functionality that adds to the 1695g weight of my M/57 lid. The Sena comms system includes Mesh intercom; bluetooth 5.0 with dual antennas; multi-way intercom; multi-language voice command; and digital assist via Siri or Google assistant. Though not a system I have used a great deal, it was excellent when I have, and is a very useful addition at £291 if purchased with the lid (saving £69). What I particularly like is the fact that the microphone plugs in, thus does not need to be in place all of the time... I am always tempted to start chewing it. Another cracking feature of the E2 is how it works alongside other helmets in the stable. As stated, I ride in the C5 and the comms system from that helmet is compatible with the E2, as are the visors, though you need to remove the peak to use it. Doing so turns the adventure helmet into a sleek sports tourer which may well make my C5 a touch redundant. Tinted visors are available for the E2 for use with the visor, of course. Prices on the E2 start at £569.99 as in my helmet shown which is the Gloss White. With different colourways and graphics the price creeps up, maxing out at £649.99 (without comms). The entire set up is an investment but works seamlessly, and Schuberth does deliver the quality that you are paying for and there are certainly some deals around! www.mslmagazine.co.uk 83
It’s a must as far as I am concerned. I feel naked without this on. No matter how short the journey or even if the jacket I have on that day has a back protector built in, I always put this on. It is now the best part of four years old and has been with me along my two-wheeled journey. As important as making sure that your tyres are the correct pressure or that your helmet isn’t 20 years old and that you have an emergency £10 tucked away just in case you stop for a butty and a brew somewhere on route, this back protector is a must. It's These are the most slipper-like boots I have ever, ever worn. I bloody love them. I have had Oxford Products boots and Spidi paddock-style trainers and even slip-on Velcro boots, and none have come close by a mile to these. They are stiff and supportive as a pair of off-road boots should be, but they are comfortable beyond words. This may be down to the shape of my feet but I have been told by the soon-to-be (by the time this is printed actually) missus that they are not everyday footwear. I wish they were. If I had one gripe it would another piece of gear that was brought to my attention by an old work colleague of mine from a company in Wales. He bounced of a Volvo’s bonnet one day on his way home in Cardiff and if it wasn’t for the back protector (don’t know the brand and he cannot either) he was wearing, he is sure he would be in a wheelchair right now. With its adjustable elasticated shoulder straps and wide Velcro waist band, it fits snug and doesn’t ride up or slip down to where you don’t want it. This is just me but if you can, get one! be that they are almost too warm for all-year-round wear. Okay, now the tech bit that you need to know. Available in black and brown, these mid-length adventure-style motorcycle boots are made from a full-grain leather upper with pull-up finishing and rear reflex insert. These are 100% waterproof, thanks to a T-Dry waterproof liner, and have added protection throughout with polyurethane malleolus, toe and heel inserts and gearchange reinforcement. The collar is ergonomically designed with a stretch panel for a snug fit that also allows movement. Now here are some words I don’t know the meaning of but you may. A great fit with two interchangeable and micro-adjustable polyurethane buckles positioned on the instep area (I understand that bit) as well as an Ortholite footbed with long-term cushioning and high level of breathability for added comfort. The sole is high performance with differentiated grip areas, made of a special rubber compound to offer superior stability and traction on any terrain. They have had some abuse over the last year and have held up fantastically. + Positives: Comfort, fit and protection. – Negatives: I’m not allowed to wear them in bed! Forcefield Back Protector TCX Baja mid WP boots Tested by Jonathan Schofield | Prices start from £159.99 | www.forcefieldbodyarmour.com Tested by Jonathan Schofield | £146 | www.infinitymotorcycles.com 84 Motorcycle Sport & Leisure – established 1962
M eetings, meetings, meetings… That’s been my summer. And, of course, the best way to get there has been by Versys. Each and every time it’s been better to put on the casual bike clothing I’ve got (I’m a recent convert to armoured jeans and boots that look like ‘normal’ boots that don’t squeak when you walk) and ride to a meeting rather than drive there. I’ve not been to the British motorcycle Grand Prix for some years… It’s down the road at Silverstone and I needed to meet someone for a feature I was doing in Classic Racer. It took 45 minutes to get there, slipping past the traffic with ease, then another 50 minutes to get from where they told me to park (despite my flashy pass) to the person I needed to see in the paddock (along with a bus ride.) Let’s just say Silverstone is not the best race track to either get around or go to if you actually want to SEE any motorcycle racing… The next meeting was much more fun: a trip to the Imperial War Museum Duxford to meet Classic Motorcycle Mechanics’ contributor (and visor cleaning expert) Paul Berryman. Once more the Versys proved to be a useful steed. We found we could load up the Versys with our bike kit on arrival and walk about in shorts… Bliss! We didn’t scare too many museum visitors by getting down to our shreddies in the car park. One thing that may garner a laugh or two is the left-hand pannier. You need to slide it forward (or back) depending on whether you need to get it back on or take it off, but it’s often stuck and you have to kinda bang into it with your hips to get it back on. Ever seen Uncle Buck, the John Candy comedy film from the 1980s? There’s that scene where he’s trying to ‘get his load in’ with a washing machine with a dodgy door and it sounds like he’s doing something rude. It’s the same with that ‘sticky’ pannier. Poor Paul had the same issue at Duxford… Finally I’ve sorted out the screen: you press an (almost hidden) button in the cockpit and then pull the bar to raise or lower it. Sadly, the uppermost position isn’t perfect and the lowermost means you’ve got windblast on your chest. Interestingly, the highest position sees the bendy plastic at the edges ‘flap’ at certain speeds. It’s like sitting on Margate seafront with a bag of chips and being attacked by a seagull… Maybe it’s time I investigated some sort of aftermarket screen option? Are there any Versys 650 GT owners out there that can give me the heads-up on what works for them or not? Drop me a line at: BSimmonds@ mortons.co.uk More miles shuttling around this month for what Bertie calls ‘work’, but at least he can adjust the screen… PROS & CONS + My ‘go-to’ machine for everyday use + Massive luggage space – Seagull screen THIS MONTH Rider: Bertie Simmonds, 52, 122 kilos (268lb) Cost new: £10,749 Spec: 67bhp/ 61Nm (45lb-ft) Engine: 649cc, liquid-cooled, parallel-twin 4v per cylinder Kerb weight: 219kg (with panniers) Tank: 21 litres (4.62 gallons) Seat: 845mm (33.3in) Miles this month: 404 Miles on clock: 908 Fuel consumption: 55.3mpg / 19.58km/l Current tyres: Dunlop Sportsmax D222 Modifications: None Kawasaki Versys 650 GT Test fleet: Versys and Katana share the shade of a cherry tree at Duxford: bless Flashy parking pass is ignored by Silverstone staff so Bertie has to catch a bus to the paddock Paul Berryman about to make beautiful love to a Versys pannier www.mslmagazine.co.uk 85
Test fleet: Suzuki V-Strom 800DE “Y eah, but you always say good things about your longtermers”, says a cynical mate when he hears me praising my V-Strom 800DE yet again. Naturally I attempt to counter his doubting, defending myself by saying I only ever choose bikes likely to suit me in the first place, and quickly pronounce the Suzuki as the best one yet. I really do think the V-Strom fits the bill superbly. As my only form of private transport, it’s spot on. Good at just about everything – and I use it for a wide variety of things including menial everyday runs to the shops and visiting local mates, to longer big-mile tours like the ones I’ve done this month – the adventure bike is hard not to like. Bags packed, let’s head off to the Lake District Optimism wasn’t evident shortly after I set off for an adventure around the Lake District, though. I’d recently returned from a highly enjoyable working trip in Devon on the Suzuki and anticipated more of the same. But, rather depressingly, a late start forced me to cover much of the first day’s 270-mile trip to the region on the motorway. Anyone who knows me is fully aware of my dislike of these joyless, monotonous three-lane carriageways. But if you have to get anywhere in the shortest possible time, then there’s little choice. To add to the torment, I completed at least 95% of the journey in pouring rain. Worse still, because I’d not expected such poor weather, I’d chosen the wrong jacket, getting thoroughly soaked from the waist upwards. Berating myself didn’t help, and the V-Strom’s lack of weather protection only added to the burden. Criticism of the tiny, ineffective screen was academic, as the rain was so incessant and heavy. At least my new Dunlop Raid tyres gave excellent grip on the wet roads, and my steady pace generated a very frugal 66mpg. Toughen up, it’s not going to get any better Basing myself at clothing company Knox for the Lakes trip luckily meant access to fresh, dry, and more serious waterproof kit, and boy did I need it. As it was going to be a challenging day, it wasn’t just the bike that would be tested. More rain was forecast later, and camping meant more basic levels of accommodation. At least the V-Strom wasn’t moaning. It coped happily with everything I asked of it, with its user-friendly nature being one of its biggest virtues. To this day I’m still won over by the impressive pulling power of the Suzuki’s superb engine. Its spec sheet might have it down as just a run-of-the-mill parallel twin with modest peak power, but the reality is very different. Its delivery reminds me of the famous GSX-R 1000K5 motor, and though it obviously can’t After clocking over 3000 miles on my V-Strom 800 I’m voting it as my favourite long-termer so far! The engine’s brilliant, but the exposed water pump looks vulnerable
hope to match the maximum output of that engine, the 800 still feels very similar in the way it can drive so cleanly and strongly in the midrange. Even in big gears the engine just gets on with the job of making progress in the most unflustered manner imaginable. At least the Suzuki’s weather isn’t Even in poor weather, the controllability remains. A few of the more worn-out Lake District’s routes looked ice-like in terms of grip. Obviously I didn’t push things hard, but whenever I did there was little reason to worry. Part of this was down to the grippy Dunlops, though they themselves are given less work to do by the V-Strom’s linear power delivery, predictable suspension, and progressive brakes. Given how much it rains in the UK, I consider this friendly balance and usability a very important feature on a bike. Luckily for me, it’s one of the Suzuki’s hallmarks. Down at the seaside It wasn’t my idea, but selecting the traction control’s G (Gravel) setting made power sliding across a deserted Cumbrian beach great fun, and highlighted the 800’s manageability all the more. Mind you, that still couldn’t stop me dropping it when the softness of the sand caught me out. The minor fall served as a reminder of the handicap of using a weighty adventure bike like this away from the road, and it took three of us to lift the bike back on to its tyres. Luckily, damage was limited to a slightly broken front brake lever. Had the whole thing been snapped off, further progress wouldn’t have been possible. Morning campers We rounded the day off nicely at a lovely campsite at Hoathwaite, near Coniston, where the kind proprietor let us hose off the potentially corrosive sea water before we went off to have a lovely evening meal at a nearby pub. Overnight rain finished off the bike rinsing, and packing away my tent in the continuing precipitation early next morning didn’t see me in the best of moods. Yet once the gear was packed on to the 800 and its wheels began turning, optimism returned instantly. The Lake District is a hell of a place to ride a bike, with jaw-dropping scenery constantly evident. Part of the plan on the second day was to do some off-roading. I can’t say I was feeling too positive about the idea after the previous day’s fall, but the fairly easy route along hardpacked rocks and gravel didn’t end up taxing me or the V-Strom too much. It underlined its credible dual-purpose status, though it must be said the very capable Dunlops played a big part in this. The long way home Following a night in a hotel where a bed had never felt quite as luxurious, I set off back in the general direction of home. With lots of time available, getting lost somewhere in the Yorkshire Dales only added to the fun of it all. After a stay with a mate in Glossop, and another night of rest on my Dad’s canal boat, I completed the last leg with another 840 miles added to the V-Strom’s clock. It’d been a really great trip, and one the Suzuki had excelled at. As I said, it’s a bike that’s hard not to like. PROS & CONS + All round versatility + Brilliant engine – Poor weather protection Luckily this was the only damage after the beach fall Dunlop Raid 50/50 tyres give the 800 much greater off-road potential If you’re going to take your adventure bike off-road, avoid ending up like this! THIS MONTH Rider: Chris Moss, 64, five foot six (168cm) Cost new: £10,665 Spec: 82bhp/78Nm Engine: 776cc, l/c, 8v, 270°, parallel twin Kerb weight: 230kg Tank: 20 litres/4.4 gallons Seat: 855mm/34 inches Miles this month: 1355 Miles on clock: 3463 Average mpg: 58mpg/20.5km/l Current tyres: Dunlop Trailmax Raid Modifications: None Total value of mods: £0 www.mslmagazine.co.uk 87
Al is boxing clever, with a box on the Boxer… Test fleet: BMW R1250 R SE I t’s been a little quiet on the R1250 R this month: the school holidays mean I’ve been herding my two little treasures around the country. And, sadly, until I sort a two-man sidecar for the twelve-fiddy arrrr, I’ll struggle to do that auf dem Motorrad… There has been progress in other areas, though. I’ve finally sorted a top box out, which is, I maintain, a vital part of any motorbike that you’re planning to use seriously in real life. Yes, I know they’re about as cool as Jacob Rees-Mogg’s record collection, but who cares? Having a big, secure, waterproof space to fill with useful (and useless) stuff more than makes 88 Motorcycle Sport & Leisure – established 1962
THIS MONTH Rider: Alan Dowds/52/173cm Cost new: £14,580 Engine: Water-cooled Boxer flat twin, 1,254cc, 8v DOHC with ShiftCam VVT Spec: 136bhp (100kW) / 105lb-ft (143Nm) Kerb weight: 239kg Tank: 18 litres (3.95 gallons) Seat height: 820mm (32in) Miles this month: 120 Miles on clock: 1156 Fuel consumption: 48.7mpg/ 20.7km/l Current tyres: Michelin Road 5 GT Modifications: Hepco & Becker top box and rack Hepco & Becker mounting plate (above) and (below) the cavernous 60-litre top box mounted upon it up for any sneering from the trendy kids. Plus, the posh white-leathered Panigale ’R’ crew will look even dafter when you duff ’em up through the twisties with an enormous pizza-delivery cuboid hanging off the back. My R1250 R came without the BMW factory-fit rack for a box, so I had to get the full set up. The good people at Hepco & Becker UK had just the thing: a pair of compact steel rack brackets, which bolt into standard fixing holes on the BMW’s sub-frame. Add one of H&B’s own Easyrack carriers, and I could pop on any top box I fancied. I asked for the firm’s enormous Xplorer 60 case. It’s a hefty 60 litres in volume, but is fairly light when empty thanks to its aluminium/plastic construction. There are two locking clasps, and it’s easily removed from the rack, using the same key. It’s properly big enough for two full-face lids, with space left over, too. The rack took me about 30 minutes to fit – it’s literally four bolts for the steel brackets, then four nuts and bolts to attach the Easyrack carrier plate. You keep the pillion grabrails, and the bungee points, too – nice. The rack brackets and carrier plate costs £213, and the Xplorer 60 case is £480. More info at www. hepco-becker.co.uk My first chance to use the new top box was on a quick jaunt down the M3 to Wokingham to visit the guys at Big CC Racing (I have a long-running project turbo ZRX1100 down there which is very nearly done). The big box easily soaked up my camera bag, flashguns, some provisions for the day (good coffee and nice biscuits for the lads), and, I like to think, added some extra panache to my progress. I had a bit of a dice with a nice man on an old first generation Suzuki GSX-S1000, and once more, the R1250 R showed it can keep in touch with even quite high-powered machinery. GSX-S man wasn’t hanging around, but the BMW kept up on a twisty back road, boosted by its strong drive out of bends, and he only pulled away when the speeds got silly… www.mslmagazine.co.uk 89
T he middleweight naked market is massive. The KTM 790 Duke has long been a favourite; winning the hearts and minds of sporty road riders left, right and centre, and snapping up sales with great aplomb. The 890 Duke shares a good portion of the spoils, too, alongside Yamaha’s MT 07, Triumph’s Trident 660, Ducati’s Monster and Aprilia’s Tuono 660 (plus plenty more). But there are actually two ‘new’ kids on the block in the form of Suzuki’s GSX-8S and Honda’s CB750 Hornet, which are vying for the top spot. Should KTM be worried? This past month, I’ve actually managed to swing my leg over the pair and see what they’re made of. The Suzuki was the standout. Priced at £7999 (the same as the KTM), it feels much more refined and much more planted than the Duke – but it also feels significantly less spritely, and subsequently, significantly less fun. The Honda’s a good chunk of cash cheaper, coming in at £6999. There’s no doubt it represents pretty incredible value for money, and in typical Honda fashion is exceptionally well put together, but it’s also missing some of the fire that the KTM’s rev-loving LC8c parallel twin brings to the table. While all three bikes have their own unique merits (and acknowledging that I’ve got quite a soft spot for the Duke after our few months together), I’d say that the KTM comes out on top; though it must be said that the 790 does feel a little less sophisticated than the other two. If you want to know more about how the three bikes stack up, sit tight for a full road test in a future issue. I’ve also had a bit of time to consider what I’d do to the Duke if it were mine. While it’s a cracking bit of kit straight out of the box, there are a few things that I reckon would make it a bit more usable and a bit easier to live with, particularly when you take into account the kind of miles I’m often required to rattle off on my way to meetings, events and launches. Poring over the extensive KTM Powerparts catalogue online, it’s easy to get carried away and bolt every possible bit of useful kit to the bike. In my dreams, I’d be laying down close to a grand for the gorgeous Akrapovic slip-on exhaust – but to keep at least a foot in reality, I decided to impose myself a theoretical budget of £1000, for everything I’d need to turn the KTM into the perfect workhorse. Here’s where my money would go. First, I’d snap up a USB power outlet for £44.46. I’m terrible with directions, and I’d definitely appreciate being able to stick my sat-nav up front without worrying about it going flat. Next, I’d sort some luggage. There’s a compactlooking side bag set for £452.16 (which also needs mounting brackets at a cost of £180.36) that’d do the job. Not cheap (and I suspect you could do it cheaper if you looked elsewhere), but they look good and fit the bike just so. Cruise control would be nice, too. For big journeys it’s a lovely thing to have – and although it costs £252.79 (plus a new switchgear for £89.70), I reckon it’d be money well spent. Finally, let’s get a windshield. My one main criticism of the 790 is the neckache I’ve experienced on long stretches of fast road. While it might slightly spoil the sporty looks, I reckon a small screen would work wonders. So, that means I’d need to spend another £928.81 to turn the KTM from back-to-basics naked to a proper workhorse. Weighing up the competition and thinking about add-ons PROS & CONS + The KTM’s a joy to ride. Agile and aggressive, it begs to be pushed hard + It could be argued it feels a little ‘unrefined’ compared to the Hornet and GSX-8S – The lack of a USB outlet and screen feel like a bit of an oversight THIS MONTH Rider: Ross Mowbray, 6ft 1in Cost new: £7999 Spec: 95bhp/87Nm Engine: 799cc, LC8c parallel twin Kerb weight: 174kg Tank: 14 litres Seat: 825mm (32.4in) Miles this month: 407 Miles on clock: 2530 Average mpg: 42.4mpg (18.2km/l) Current tyres: Maxxis Supermaxx ST Test fleet: KTM 790 Duke Does it really need more power? In need of a screen 90 Motorcycle Sport & Leisure – established 1962
W here does time go? Am I the only one who never seems to find any spare time to just ride? When I was 17-21, I rode fun two-strokes, Suzuki’s RG125, and Kawasaki’s KR1S, and I was never worried about time. The only thing that stopped me from riding was a hangover, the price of fuel or a lack of two-stroke oil, usually all three. I had loads of spare time. Every Wednesday I’d be at Squires Café between York and Leeds, and each weekend to the coast, Scarborough or Whitby for fish and chips. I’d even have time for a mid-week dangerous riding competition with mates around North Yorkshire, sneaking in a lap of Olivers’ Mount. Now, rides must be planned with military procedures. Don’t get me wrong, I’m very fortunate, have a job I love, and an amazing family who are more than happy for me to pop out for a few hours on the GasGas, but I never seem to have time. I’ve only attended one track day on the GasGas this year, which is pitiful, and we are already heading towards the end of summer and GasGas will want their Supermoto back soon. The GasGas SM is very much like my early two-stroke days. Obviously very different mechanically, but they have the same fun nature and DNA. The GasGas isn’t that practical, it’s just a fun toy, something to own and ride just for the pleasure of riding. Yes, you can commute on it, but that’s really where the practicality ends, as you can’t fit any serious luggage, and there are no pegs to take a pillion. But, like those early days of riding, the GasGas is fun, in a simple way. Just get on and ride. You don’t really need a destination, just head for some fun twisties and enjoy it. It’s light, easy to handle, has great stopping power, and delivers enough power to have fun with, occasionally lifting the front wheel off the ground. I feel the clock reversing when I ride the GasGas; it turns me back into a mischievous youth, with no cares or worries, no deadlines or emails to answer. Switch off for a few hours and just have fun. That’s really why I enjoy riding the GasGas, I just wish I had more spare time to do so. I’ve not even managed to return the SM back to GasGas HQ at Silverstone to get the intermittent fault with the clocks fixed. It keeps saying F3 ECU. The bike runs perfectly, but I have no rider aids, lean-sensitive ABS or TC. In perfect conditions I honestly don’t mind, and rarely I ride the GasGas in poor weather as it’s mainly a toy used for darting around York or for a few hours of fun around my home county. The problem now is, if I take Technical issues don’t stop play PROS & CONS + Makes you smile + Fun – Not enough time to have fun Test fleet: GasGas700 THIS MONTH Rider: Adam Child, age 46, height 5’7 Cost New: £9359 Spec: 74bhp/73.5Nm Engine: 693cc, single-cylinder Kerb weight: 148.5kg (dry) Tank: 13.5 litres Seat: 898mm (35in) Miles this month: 400 Miles on Clock: 2100 Fuel consumption: 55mpg Current Tyres: Pirelli Diablo Rosso IV Modifications: Changed the rubber from Continental Attack SM to Pirelli Diablo Rosso IV it back to GasGas for a service they will probably want it back as it’s due to be returned. Time to ignore the communications and keep having fun – but carefully with no rider aids! www.mslmagazine.co.uk 91
A t last! There’s only one thing that’s been annoying me about living with Suzuki’s otherwise excellent GSX-8S, and that’s having no luggage. There’s been a three-month delay from when Suzuki expected to take delivery of it, but finally I have soft panniers and a tank bag to extend my range on the bike. Up to now I’ve mostly just used it for local runs with a rucksack for company. I’ve become so used to having luggage capacity on bikes like Kawasaki’s Versys and Suzuki’s GSX-S1000 GT that I’ve really missed it. I did manage an overnight trip to Cadwell Park on the 8S, using a rucksack and a roll-pack, but one got in the way of the other and it was far from ideal. It’s an awful lot more convenient to have a proper system designed for the bike. Each official Suzuki soft pannier (they’re actually nicely rigid) holds 15 litres but can be expanded by a zip to hold 20 litres. They cost £315 but you’ll also need to spend a further £57.43 on the mounting brackets. The brackets can be removed when not in use, so the bike never has to be left with ugly rails. If you’ve used any SW-Motech luggage systems, you’ll be familiar with this one. Tank bags are available in large or small, with the large one costing £162 and the smaller one retailing at £104. I have the small five-litre one (which can be expanded to nine litres) but don’t forget, you’ll also need a tank ring to fit it to. They cost an additional £36.68. All the luggage comes with waterproof covers and the tank bag also comes with a handy carrying strap. It took about an hour to fit all the brackets and the tank ring, and it was a bit of a faff as pictorial instructions are never the easiest things to follow. But now everything’s in place it’s quick and easy to pop the tank bag and the panniers off and on in a matter of seconds. And now that I’m luggaged up, I can finally head straight up the road to Scotland, which is something I’ve been waiting to do all summer. Well, I say ‘summer’, but it sure as hell hasn’t felt like it! Apart from a trip to the British Grand Prix in August, I’ve not been riding much as the weather has just been so foul. But I intend to make up for that with a trip to Scotland and some great riding once I’m up there. If only the weather holds out. How the naked 8S is going to fair on the long motorway jaunt to the border remains to be seen, but I’ve noticed that having no screen is better than having one that’s the wrong height. The screen on the GSX-1000S GT angled the wind blast right at my face (I’m just over six foot) and created an awful lot of noise, whereas things are much quieter on the naked 8S. There’s only one way to find out how bad the neck strain’s going to be on a 740-mile round trip and that’s to go! I’ll let you know how the bike and me fair next month. I’m o ! Stu finally takes delivery of a luggage system for his GSX-8S PROS & CONS + It’s a far, far better bike than the spec sheet suggests + Economic to run, often returning around 50mpg – Now that I have luggage, it’s hard to think of any flaws THIS MONTH Rider: Stuart Barker, 52, (6ft, 183cm) Cost new: £7999 Engine: 776cc, parallel twin Spec: 82bhp (61.14kW) / 77.9Nm (57.5lb-ft) Kerb weight: 202kg Tank: 14 litres (3.07 gallons) Seat height: 810mm (31.9in) Miles this month: 273 Miles on clock: 1376 Fuel consumption: 48.6mpg/20.66km/l Current tyres: Dunlop Sportmax Roadsport 2 Modifications: Suzuki soft side case set (£315 plus £57.43 for mounting brackets), Suzuki small tank bag (£104 plus £36.68 for tank ring) Test fleet: Suzuki GSX-8S 92 Motorcycle Sport & Leisure – established 1962
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94 Motorcycle Sport & Leisure – established 1962 To advertise in classifiedMSL please contact: Simon on 01507 529410 l s i e PARTS TOURING ESSENTIALS TYRES www.motorcyclesportandleisure.co.uk
Upload your free advert today – www.mslmagazine.co.uk MOTORCYCLE SPORT & LEISURE IS THE BEST P ACE TO ADVERTISE YOUR BIKES AND SPARES All private adverts are FREE! Upload your advert at www.mslmagazine.co.uk Post the coupon below We cannot accept Reader Adverts over the phone Motorcycle Spo t & Leisure Reader Adverts There is no other medium so effective as Motorcycle Sport & Leisure Readers Bikes and Bits – so why not take advantage of them right now? Simply complete the form below and send it as soon as possible to: Motorcycle Sport & Leisure, Bike & Bits, PO Box 99, Horncastle, Lincolnshire LN9 6LZ It is our policy at Motorcycle Sport & Leisure not to accept private adverts from traders. If, whilst looking for a bike in Motorcycle Sport & Leisure, you experience a trader advertising as a private seller, please call us on 01507 529529 and we will take appropriate action. Advertisements can be accepted on this form, photocopy or internet. Choose a section ■ Bikes for sale ■ Miscellaneous ■ Wanted ■ Photo enclosed ■ Spares Name:............................................................................................................... Address:........................................................................................................ ..................................................................................................................................... ..................................................................................................................................... Area/County:.................................................................................................. Telephone:........................................................................................................ Email:..................................................................................................................... Signature:....................................................................................................... Date:........................................................................................................................ OFFICE USE ONLY MONTH CODE I confirm that I am not a dealer If you are a trader, give our advertising department a call on 01507 524004 for our latest display ad rates. Terms and conditions for private adve tisers 1. The adve t provided by the customer must be legal, decent, honest and truthful and comply with the code of the Adve tising Standards Authority (www.asa.org.uk). Mo tons Media Group may amend the adve tisement to comply with these requirements. 2. Mo tons Media Group is not able to veri y the truthfulness of any statements made by a customer in the adve t copy. Accordingly, the customer will be responsible for any losses, expenses or other costs incurred by Mo tons Media Group which are caused by an untrue statement made deliberately. 3. Mo tons Media Group rese ves the right to edit an adve t to fit the allotted space and can only accept one adve t per coupon. 4. Whilst eve y e fo t is made to include your free adve t correctly, we are unable to take telephone calls should an error occur. 5. Please enclose a stamped addressed envelope if you would like your photograph to be returned. 6. The publisher rese ves the right to place this adve t free of charge in other Mo tons Media related publications. DATA: Protection of your personal data is impo tant to us. Personal data will be stored securely and will only be used for the purpose of processing the adve tisement. Data will be stored for a period of 6 months and then destroyed. For Publishing Make Model Year Price County Tel Email bikes & bits
96 Motorcycle Sport & Leisure – established 1962 BMW K1600 B LE black storm metallic, 6000 miles, all the toys, plus back rest, 1st reg June 2019, new MoT, full BMW service history, 11 months dealer’s warranty, £13,750 Tel. 07808 897081. Somerset BSA Golden Flash, 1954, immaculate show-winning, 650cc twin, matching numbers, original registration with buff logbook and V5C, free delivery Tel. 01723 372219. North Yorkshire BSA Shooting Star, 1958, metallic green, 500cc, twin alloy rims, Avons, topbox, panniers, first kick starter, running well, V5C, free delivery £5950 Tel. 01723 372219. North Yorkshire BSA Golden Flash, 1961, equipped for touring, Avonaire fairing, topbox, panniers, rear crash bars, alloy rims, new battery, £5950 Tel. 01723 372219. North Yorkshire KAWASAKI F8 Bison, 1971, unrestored original condition, imported 2010 from USA, owned 10 years, 5400 miles, £2495 Tel. 07710 630007. North Hertfordshire KAWASAKI ZXR750, 1989, 35,000 miles, recent carb overhaul, MoT July 2024, good clean bike for 34 years old, £2450 Tel. Paul 07748 158525. MOTO GUZZI California 2000 EV1100, Opalescent Pearl, vgc, new Hagons, 32,177 miles, MoT 14/03/24, full factory workshop manual, some spares, can deliver, £3250 Tel. John 07766 006444. Cheshire MOTO MORINI 250cc, 1983, alloy wheels, Avon tyres, f/disc, r/drum brakes, stainless silencers, previous MoTs, V5C, small V/twin, free delivery, £4250 Tel. 01723 372219. North Yorkshire KAWASAKI GPZ500, 1996, LSL top yoke conversion LSL straight bars, new power Bronze tall screen, Motad exhaust, rack top box, £1400 ono Tel. 01926 770198. Warwickshire KAWASAKI 750 Zephyr, 1991, t&t, first reg Aug 1991, 8119 miles from new, paint and brightwork in immaculate condition, recent new chain and battery, £3750 ono Tel. 01302 834068. KAWASAKI H2C, 1975, 19,490 miles, owned bike since May 2014, 99% original factory with only a few pattern parts, £16,950 Tel. 07786 6433296. Lancashire KAWASAKI Z900 A4, 1976, US import fully refurbished, V5 and age-related plate, electronic ignition fitted, engine painted silver, twin front disc conversion, £13,500 Tel. 07528 726526. HONDA CG125BR-J, 124cc, in good working order a very good runabout, only 11,558 miles, first registered 1990, £1250 ono Tel. 07857 760073. Milton Keynes HONDA CB650F, 2016, top box and fly screen, had new brake pads, chain and sprockets, fsh, mileage 18,814, MoT, £3900 Tel. Ken 01704 229567. HONDA CX500 1978, 13,757 miles, recently repainted, frame, wheels, engine has 50 plus oil pressure, 2-into-1 exhaust, runs good, £1850 ono Tel. 07548 028097. Devon HONDA 400 Four F2, 1978, new rims, spokes, tyres, seat, mudguards, chain, sprockets, new seat, all new cables, new exhaust, £3750 Tel. 07958 192842. HONDA CBR600F, 2000 reg, good condition (small crack in fairing off-side front indicator) 15,600 miles, full stainless exhaust, recent chain/sprockets, £1750 ovno Tel. 07564 277551. Bedfordshire HONDA CB250N Superdream Café Racer conversion, full strip down and rebuild, rims change to full spoke, new tyres and brakes fitted, £2600 or sensible offers Tel. 07720 204965. HONDA ST1100 Pan European x 2, project bikes, one is an Anniversary model, the second bought as back-up/ spares, £500 each or £800 the pair Tel. 07474 128407. HONDA SLR650, 1998, very good original condition, 38,000 miles, recent tyres, battery, long MoT, £1695 Tel. 07742 104177. Durham BSA Bantam, one-off special, 1957 D3 frame with 1960s D10 175cc engine, wheels & brakes have been changed for larger Jawa ones, runs and rides, has V5, £1295 ono Tel. 01788 890047. Rugby HARLEY-DAVIDSON Street Rod, 750cc, 2018, olive green metallic, only 2900 miles from new, service history, recent service, 10 months’ MoT, £4400 no offers Tel. 07979 883310. HARLEY-DAVIDSON XR1200, 2010, 2000 miles, owned from new, needs recommission, totally standard, need to sell, £6000 Tel. 07799 276870. HONDA GL1200 Interstate, UK reg 1992, 65,000 miles, MoT Feb 24, fair condition, recent new alternator and fork seals, tyres good, £1500 Tel. 07718 922294. Canterbury bikes & bits
www.mslmagazine.co.uk 97 NORTON Dominator 99, 1959, showroom condition, owned nine years from private collection, V5C, t/l/s brake, belt primary drive, free delivery, £7950 Tel. 01723 372219. North Yorkshire SUZUKI GS1000G, 1981, very good condition, historic t&t, £4000 ono Tel. 07884 935589. Preston. Email. leese677@ gmail.com SUZUKI GP125, 1981, air-cooled single cylinder rotary valve 123cc 2-stroke, 15bhp, five speed gearbox, front disc brake, very good condition, £2250 Tel. 07889 619892. South Essex SUZUKI PE175N, 1978, historic vehicle, very good condition, low mileage, runs well, alloy tank, new plastics, spare rear shocks and original parts catalogue, £3400 ono Tel. Tony 07928 851541. Croydon YAMAHA RD350, 1973, USA import, V5, new tyres, sprockets, seat, battery, etc., displayed only, £3500 Tel. 07488 358646. YAMAHA RD350LC, 1981, UK bike, non-matching numbers, runs and rides ok, t&t exempt, 19,400 miles, clean and presentable bike, owned for 7 years, £5950 Tel. 07706 889564. Shrewsbury YAMAHA FZS600 Fazer MK1, 1998, beautiful condition, fsh, 2 keys, 20,000 miles, year’s MoT, brand-new gold chain and sprockets, brand-new Bridgestone tyres, £2995 Tel. 07533 383800. Surrey YAMAHA XS650-D, 1977, 18,000 miles, superb original condition, starts on the button, runs well, refurbished engine and carbs, £4000 Tel. Jed 07775 068656. North West London SUZUKI T500, 1975, US import in its original unrestored condition apart from new pistons, crankshaft, tyres & brakes, starts easily & rides well, £4250 Tel. 01242 242824. Gloucestershire SUZUKI GSR600, immaculate, 2006, genuine 2048 miles, comes complete with set of lockable Givi panniers with keys, included 2 helmets & 2 sets of leathers £3500 no offers Tel. 07773 309971. Yorks TRIUMPH Bonneville, 1970, as-new condition, restored during 2007, placed in private collection, now recommissioning, ready to ride, V5C, £8950 Tel. 01723 372219. North Yorkshire YAMAHA TD2 Machin 247cc, TZ rods, meteor pistons, Fontana front TC1C rear, Falcon shocks, MP forks, Abcon pipes, spare engine, carbs, new fairing, £6250 Tel. 07712 979719. For Sale APRILIA Caponord 1200 Travelpack, Dec 2016, 12,769 miles, official Aprilia add-ons, Arrow end-can, heated grips, alarm, colour-matched top box, Gel comfort seat, plus original bits, MRA screen, Baglux tank cover + bag, satnav, chain oiler, fsh, £5900. Tel. Paul 07402 356615. Wirral. BMW S1000 XR M Sport, 2020, all the toys you could wish for and more, 24,000 miles, full BMW SH, recently had £800 valve service, as-new condition, XR70 BMW number plate inc., contact with any questions Tel. 07956 666969. BMW R80GS 1992, ground up restoration by Overland and Classic, this is of a high standard using original parts where possible but new engine, gearbox and drive parts, etc., 57k miles, UK bike and documented rebuild, prepped for BMW navigation and ready to seriously tour the world, correctly run in and serviced, original seat and panniers inc., buyer collects, bargain £6000. Tel. 07880 746767. DUCATI 916 Biposto, 1997, Arrow exhaust, 6-piston calipers, Marchesini wheels, very smart, well maintained, full service history, stainless and titanium parts and fittings, been all over Europe, Scandinavia, never been let down Tel. 01473 658432; 07752 447503. HONDA CBR600FY, 2001, 32,000 miles, red and black, recent new tyres, chain and sprockets, battery, 12 months MoT, tidy, reliable bike, motorcycle mechanic owned, £1495. Tel. 07748 942271. HONDA VFR1200F, 31,000 miles, good condition, well maintained, regular oil changes, valve clearances checked and adjusted as required, original Honda pannier kit, after-market comfy saddle, £4950. Tel. 07779 304589. SUZUKI RV125 Van Van, outstanding condition, 2006, 14,000 miles, MoT June 2024, ride-on car licence, ULEZ compliant, 100mpg, 60mph £1900. Tel. 07541 083977. Surrey. TRIUMPH 899 Scrambler, 2011, excellent condition only has been ridden in summer covering just 10,000 miles, it has an Arrow custom exhaust which produces a beautiful sound, Scrambler is in metallic matt green and black colours, £5500. Tel. 01347 810527. TRIUMPH Tiger XRX 2015, white, one previous owner, 19,079 miles, MoT 04/07/2024, no advisories, ABS, cruise control, various riding modes, additional lights, chain oiler, centre stand, Givi screen plus original, engine crash bars, fender extender, hugger, standard and low seat, Oxford top box, handbook, Haynes manual, 3 keys, always garaged, excellent condition, £5000 no offers Tel. 01275 857646. Bristol. Parts For Sale DUCATI 600SS, Cagiva Alazzurra 650, Honda N400R, Honda NSR 250, MC21, MC16, Brembo calipers P8, very good condition. Aprilia 125cc clocks, sale spares only no bikes, please phone for details Tel. 07816 043480. Staffs. BMW R1100RT, 1997, red, breaking, most parts available, good condition plastics Tel. 07833 360550. Northamptonshire. KAWASAKI GPZ500S engine, late, complete except ignition rotor, stripped and cleaned, £75. Front caliper with pads for GPZ A model and ER5, £10, front caliper with pads for D model, £10, loads more. Tel. 07789 587032. Middlesex. MONTESA COTA 315, 1997-1999 spares headlight and surround with wiring new. Round, left wing mirror, new. Rear Acerbis light, brake lens, new. Radiator used, but very good, with cap, temp switch and plastic shroud. Brake lever handlebar lock. Fork seals + two pairs of Honda roller bearings headstock. Rear rental sprocket & front brake disc, both used but good, £90 the lot. Tel. 07541 083977. Surrey. NORTON ES2, 1959, wideline rolling chassis petrol tank, oil tank, battery box, tls, front brake, original guards, seat, good condition Tel. 02083 045132. Kent. TRIUMPH America Norman Hyde forward foot-rest they come back 2” for a more comfortable ride, one year old so like new, £375 ono Tel. 07483 272062. West Yorkshire. YAMAHA XV100 TRI, 1981, rear frame/ seat modification kit (new), £150 plus workshop manual TRI. Yamaha TDM, 1990, petrol tank, £50, yellow/silver. BSA A65 std pistons 20 of, £30 Tel. 01254 822289. Wanted HONDA CB250 K4, 1973, looking for donor bike for spares. Also looking for my old 1973 CB250 K3 Honda Gold, DVLA shows no MoT for years must be in someone’s shed? Tel. 02380 694806. Answer phone leave message. WANTED TRIUMPH Daytona 955i, ECM type S1000T3 Tel. 07925 543652. WANTED HONDA engine or parts for model 250XL Tel. 07919 064123. Email. [email protected] Miscellaneous ARAI PROFILE V helmet XL (62cm) white, 3 years, £80. Givi XL02 cargo bag/rucksack expands to 35lt, used once, £80. Alpinestars Jet Road V2 Goretex gloves, large, £30. Triumph Logo’d Trialmaster Style, black leather jacket 44” rarely worn, £320 Tel. 07531 398309. Surrey. GLOVES by Harley-Davidson, men’s black leather windshielder gauntlet gloves medium size, used briefly once only, £40 (less than half original rrp), contact for full details and photo (by email) Tel. 01642 710440. North Yorkshire. TWO TYRES 110/80-19 = 140/70-17 almost new, deep tread depth, on-/ off-road, buyer collects, £40 the pair Tel. 01246 251182. WATSONIAN Squire, 2010, £375. Motorcycle trailer, blue fibre glass, new tyres, new inner tubes, new lights, can send pictures. Avon tyre like new, Avon Venom 150-80-16, £35. Clutch cable CX500 custom Honda, £8 Tel. 07704 343331. Stockport. bikes & bits
Who is Cameron? Kevin is one of the most widely-respected technical gurus on the planet. Author of some of the most iconic and landmark books in motorcycle publishing, the American brings the innermost workings of what goes on in an engine to the fore in an easy-to-access way. Simply put, Cameron is a genius of all things metal that are fixed to two wheels. Kevin Cameron otorcyclists know that if, while underway, you gently roll the throttle on and off, you will feel a slight but hardly unpleasant ‘clunk’ as the backlash in gearbox engaging dogs is taken up in either direction. When I was 20, a very experienced dealer explained to me the motivations behind designing either more or less of this backlash into a gearbox. In general, the gears in transmissions alternate between being splined to the shaft and being freespinning. To lock a free-spinning gear to the shaft when it is called upon to drive, a circular array of robust pegs (square or round) is provided on the end facing an adjacent splined gear. The splined gear carries a matching set of such pegs, called ‘dogs’. The free-spinning gear is locked to the shaft by sliding the adjacent splined gear axially toward it along the shaft, causing its dogs to fit into the spaces between the dogs on the other gear. The need for engaging dog backlash comes from the time required to push the dogs into engagement. If the dogs are close to the same width as the slots into which they engage, most of the time the dogs will hit head-to-head rather than head-to-space. This slows shifting, requiring it to be quite deliberate. But if the number of dogs is small (usually three in a sporting gearbox) then the spaces between them can be made large enough to greatly increase the chance of dogs hitting spaces (a successful shift) rather than dogs hitting dogs (which delays the shift at least by the time required for the dogs to slip off each other and drop into engagement). The Burman gearbox in my motorcycle of that moment, an AJS single, engaged each gear via something more resembling many-toothed male and female splines. Because this arrangement had nearzero backlash, it was popular with gentlemen riders for whom smooth unobtrusiveness was paramount. But for a racer it was all but useless, because it took time for the splines to line up with each other and drop into engagement. A compromise was to provide six dogs on the face of each gear, but to cut every other dog to half the height of the other three. This, by providing wide spaces between the three tall dogs, made shifting rapid and positive, but once engaged, the backlash was greatly reduced – to that of a six-dog system. If this business of cramming two circles of strong steel pegs together seems crude and unlikely to last, be assured that the majority of motorcycle gearboxes last as long as the rest of the bike. When there is a problem it usually takes the form of refusing the shift from first to second. Why? The difference in rpm of the two shafts is maximum on the 1st-to-2nd shift, giving the least time in which to engage. When for any reason the shift doesn’t complete, the corners of the dogs involved do take a beating. At the shop we used to see such battered 1st-to-2nd dogs in bikes belonging to riders known to strive with might & main to win every impromptu drag race. The more this goes on, the more rounded the dogs’ corners become, and the more resolutely those rounded corners bounce off each other, refusing the shift. Eventually the only remedy is replacement. Why don’t the other dog sets round off as badly? Because your speed at the top of second gear attracts too much attention in an urban setting. Anything that impedes or delays the motion of the sliding gear toward swift engagement may cause this dog rounding – things like adjusting shift pedal height without also checking to be sure this does not cause it to bind, preventing the full pedal stroke. Has your bike been crashed, and if so, did it strike its shift pedal and shift shaft on the pavement? More than once I’ve seen extra friction from a bent shift shaft interfere with prompt, successful gear-changing. And then there is the style of the rider. Are the shifts reminiscent of flabby handshakes? Gearboxes like rapid, positive movement of the shifter. In road racing, too, gear engaging-dog backlash has a malign side-effect. As the rider applies throttle to accelerate out of a corner, both tyres are near their grip limits, so even a fairly moderate ‘clunk’ as dog backlash is taken up by the accelerating engine can cause the rear tyre to break away. To avoid this, a few lines of code called ‘backlash software’ are written into the throttle-by-wire system. This takes up the backlash softly, then brings in the desired torque. I’m sure by now you’re predicted my next subject – that all the above is notionally to be swept away by electric traction. Are we ready for the soft, almost inaudible hum? Modern gearboxes may seem supersmooth and efficient, but they’re still much the same basic design that they ever were Shifting gear SUBSCRIBE ON PAGE 28 RIDE MORE Spend less and ride more with a subscription 98 Motorcycle Sport & Leisure – established 1962