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4 TRAVEL+LE ISURE | JULY 2024 Contents DEPARTMENTS LETTER FROM THE EDITOR DISCOVERIES Explore the outdoorsy side of the United Arab Emirates; the gear brands opening places to stay; a sustainable Greenland trip; and more. STYLE CAPITALS Our guide to Europe’s most shoppable cities: Paris, Milan, Madrid, Stockholm, Berlin, and London. EXPERIENCES Nature Hop Retracing a botanical journey in South Australia taken by the father of America’s national parks. The Great Wide Open Adventure awaits at a new camp in the steppes of central Mongolia. Keeping It Fresh A cluster of islands in Lake Superior remains one of America’s last truly wild places. Sacred Waters Seeking solace in Horseshoe Bend, on the Colorado River. 8 12 29 42 48 54 56 76 88 65 62 58 104 94 Go High In Nepal, luxurious lodges and new trekking routes are elevating the visitor experience—and safeguarding an ancient culture. YOUR BEST SHOT Reader Megan Rice captures the sunrise in Capitol Reef National Park, in Utah. ON THE COVER Taking a break at Chhema Lake on a trip with Mountain Lodges of Nepal (page 94). Photograph by Carol Sachs. FROM LEFT: CAROL SACHS; JULIAN BROAD (2) RIGHT, FROM TOP Riders at Antur Stiniog, a bike park in Wales; the Church of the Holy Cross at Mwnt, Wales (page 76). BELOW A suspension bridge on the trek from Namche Bazaar to Thame, in Nepal (page 94). Au Naturel Known for its glittering coastline, the French island of Corsica has a rugged side, too. Sky’s the Limit A Paralympic track-and-field star shares the unique joys—and challenges—of traveling the world as a double amputee. INTELLIGENT TRAVELER Seven ways to prep for your next active trip; ideas for more affordable stays; learning languages at hotels; and more. FEATURES Wild Wales From mountain biking to coastal hiking, this small country offers outsize adventure. All Points West The past is within easy reach in Moffat County, Colorado. Residents, however, are looking to the future. More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
Spouses. Retired business executives Retired business executives. Greyhound rescuers. Your unique life, planned. Your unique life, planned. Two retiring business executives turn their post-career mission to greyhounds — building a sanctuary that will give these former race dogs a real chance to win. Backed by sophisticated resources and a team of specialists in every fi eld, a Raymond James fi nancial advisor gets to know you, your purpose, and everything that makes your life uniquely complex. That’s Life Well Planned. More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
6 TRAVEL+LE ISURE | JULY 2024 Contributors SIA DUFF Nature Hop (page 42) Adelaide-based Duff retraced the steps of the 20th-century American naturalist John Muir to take photos for our piece on South Australia. “Waiting for golden hour at Nest & Nature, an off-grid eco-lodge in the Inman Valley, while chatting by the fire with owner Mark Kirk was a dream,” she says. ELAINE GLUSAC All Points West Glusac, who writes the New York Times’s Frugal Traveler column, reported on Moffat County, Colorado, a region that is pivoting away from coal production and aiming to attract more visitors to its dramatic Western landscapes. A highlight: “The whoop-worthy Class III rapids on the Green River in Dinosaur National Monument,” she says. “I did not emerge dry.” TOM VANDERBILT Wild Wales (page 76) Vanderbilt, who lives in New Jersey, wrote our feature on Wales and its abundance of outdoor activities. He says of the trip, “I enjoyed discovering, as a family, a place entirely new to us that has a rich cultural heritage, a bewitching language, and an endless bounty of natural beauty.” DAVID WILLIAMS All Points West (page 88) “Wild horses were a bit difficult to find on the 160,000 acres of the Sand Wash Basin,” says the Denverbased photographer, who shot our story on Moffat County, Colorado. “But I had a great guide, Aletha Dove, who showed me where I would likely find them.” Wild horses roaming the Sand Wash Basin, in Moffat County, Colorado. Kayakers in Abereiddi’s Blue Lagoon, in Pembrokeshire, Wales. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: WALTER MARSH/COURTESY OF SIA DUFF; COURTESY OF ELAINE GLUSAC; COURTESY OF TOM VANDERBILT; JULIAN BROAD; COURTESY OF DAVID WILLIAMS; DAVID WILLIAMS More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
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8 TRAVEL+LE ISURE | JULY 2024 Letter from the Editor COURTESY OF JACQUELINE GIFFORD. ILLUSTRATION BY BASHEL LUBARSKY FROM MY TRAVELS The beauty of most ski destinations is that they shine in the summer, too. In addition to a prime location in the hills, Six Senses Crans-Montana (doubles from $700) has an OTT spa, with everything from a cold plunge to an infrared sauna. Don’t miss the biohack recovery lounge, where you can slip on a pair of compression boots, designed to improve circulation. Crans-Montana enjoys 300 days of sunshine a year, so your odds of luxuriating by the heated rooftop pool are pretty good. On the other side of the world, I checked out the Raffles Singapore (doubles from $1,500), a 115-room hotel that, with its expansive lawns, felt more like a resort. I got my requisite Singapore Sling at the Long Bar, which is messy and fun (love the peanut shells on the floor). But I preferred the more intimate Writers Bar and the lesser-known Nevermore: a tequilabased cocktail inspired by Joseph Conrad, a former guest of the hotel. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Jacqui at the Plaine Morte glacier above Crans-Montana, Switzerland; the Writers Bar at Raffl es Singapore; the hotel’s famous cast-iron fountain, made in Scotland in the 1890s; posing in the iconic lobby of the Raffl es. M I TOO OLD to learn how to ski? This question pops into my head every so often, typically after scrolling Instagram. I begin to marvel at those who, children in tow, can tackle runs in places like Telluride and Whistler, brimming with confi dence. The little ones, fearless on their skis because they’ve been doing this since they were in utero, get me every time. I tried the sport once, in Jackson Hole, relatively fi t at the age of 28. It didn’t go so well. I didn’t like the cold, I didn’t like the gear, and I didn’t like feeling unbalanced. I’ve never skied since. But a recent trip to Crans-Montana, Switzerland, got me thinking. Is this is my year? I rode a gondola to the top of the Plaine Morte glacier, where I was awestruck by the brilliant white of the snow, the sense of openness. In April the crowds were thin, and at the top of the mountain, I got a taste of what those who love skiing must feel before taking the plunge: resilient. Our July issue explores numerous destinations, far and near, that will test your endurance and get you out into the elements, whether it’s Ras al-Khaimah, in the United Arab Emirates (home to the world’s longest zipline) or Isle Royale National Park (a windswept archipelago of more than 400 islands in Lake Superior). We also spotlight ways to go riding with nomadic herders in Mongolia; biking in the wild interior of Corsica; and trekking in Nepal, where a new lodge, Shinta Mani Mustang, provides a plush place to bed down at night. When a few comforts await after a long day in the outdoors, even the most grueling excursions become more bearable. It could be a hot-water bottle in your bed, or a divine massage. Or some fondue: I couldn’t get enough of it at La Cabane de Violettes (entrées $33–$39), a mountain hut 7,250 feet up the Swiss slopes with a view of the Matterhorn in the distance. Of course, I could visit again without actually skiing—but I’m pretty sure the cheese will taste even better if I’ve worked up an appetite. @jacquigiff @jacquigiff A More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
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10 TRAVEL+LE ISURE | JULY 2024 EDITORIAL OFFICE 225 Liberty Street, New York, NY 10281, 212-522-1212. TRAVEL + LEISURE is published monthly, except for a combined issue in December/January, by TI Inc. Affluent Media Group, a subsidiary of Meredith Operations Corporation, under license from Travel + Leisure Holdco, LLC. TRAVEL + LEISURE is a trademark of Travel + Leisure Holdco, LLC, registered in the U.S. and other countries. Customer Service and Subscriptions For 24/7 service, please use our website, travelandleisure.com/customerservice. You can also call 800-888-8728 (813-979-6625 for foreign subscribers) or write to TRAVEL + LEISURE at PO Box 37508, Boone, IA 50037-0508. We may make a portion of our mailing list available to reputable firms. If you prefer we not include your name, please call or write us at the customer service information above. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, artwork, or other material. To order back issues, call 800-270-3053. Printed in U.S.A. VICE PRESIDENT, EDITOR IN CHIEF Jacqueline Gifford VICE PRESIDENT, PUBLISHER Kathryn Bano EXECUTIVE EDITOR Flora Stubbs CREATIVE DIRECTOR Fryda Lidor PHOTO DIRECTOR Scott Hall MANAGING EDITOR Erin Agostinelli FEATURES EDITOR Peter Terzian NEWS DIRECTOR Paul Brady ARTICLES EDITOR Denny Lee WINE AND SPIRITS EDITOR Ray Isle SPECIAL PROJECTS EDITOR Jess Feldman SENIOR EDITORS Elizabeth Cantrell, Samantha Falewée Danielle Pointdujour DEPUTY PHOTO EDITOR Skye Senterfeit ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR Imani Tudor ASSOCIATE DESIGNER Bashel Lubarsky PRODUCTION MANAGER Griffin Plonchak COPY AND RESEARCH CHIEF Kathy Roberson RESEARCH EDITOR Lisa Greissinger EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Jessica Vadillo INTERNATIONAL EDITOR Paul Ordonez EDITORS AT LARGE Jeff Chu, Kevin West CONTRIBUTORS David Amsden, Nina Caplan, Marcia De Sanctis Boris Fishman, Sarah Greaves-Gabbadon, Pilar Guzmán Heidi Mitchell, Sarah Moss, Tony Perrottet, Aatish Taseer Gina DeCaprio Vercesi, Gisela Williams, Simon Willis OPERATIONS PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Melanie Stoltenberg SENIOR PRODUCTION MANAGER Stacey Edmundson SENIOR DIRECTOR OF QUALITY Joe Kohler PREMEDIA TRAFFICKING SUPERVISOR Taylor Thomas COLOR QUALITY ANALYST Rob Roszkowski IMAGING SPECIALIST Don Atkinson FINANCE VICE PRESIDENT Keith Strohmeier ADVERTISING BUSINESS MANAGER Leslie Rohr SENIOR BUSINESS MANAGER Renee Scott DIGITAL SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT/GROUP GENERAL MANAGER, TRAVEL Elspeth Velten SENIOR EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Nina Ruggiero ASSOCIATE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Alisha Prakash SENIOR NEWS EDITOR Christine Burroni SENIOR EDITORS Maya Kachroo-Levine, Elizabeth Rhodes SENIOR SOCIAL EDITOR Samantha Lauriello SENIOR VISUALS EDITOR Taylor McIntyre EDITOR Susmita Baral ASSOCIATE DIGITAL PHOTO EDITOR Alessandra Amodio ASSOCIATE SOCIAL EDITORS Annie Archer, Kate Van Dyke ASSISTANT EDITOR Jalyn Robinson SALES VP, NATIONAL SALES DIRECTOR Hillary Hubbard Pavia EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, SALES Lindsey Levine EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, SALES Jennifer Fan Messer EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, CLIENT PARTNERSHIPS Caroline Donohue ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Alyssa Cramer Cohen MIDWEST Margaret Graff MIAMI Jill Stone, Eric Davis PACIFIC NORTHWEST AND SAN FRANCISCO Tricia Baak WINE REPRESENTATIVE, NORTHERN CALIFORNIA Steve Dveris HAWAII Laurie Doerschlen LONDON Katherine Galligan, Vishal Raghuvanshi MILAN Paolo Cassano PARIS Guglielmo Bava SWITZERLAND Neil Sartori MEXICO Pablo Glogovsky CANADA Lori Dodd ASIA Scott Thoreau INDIA Rachna Gulati, Namita Sahu MIDDLE EAST Mamta Pillai, Nadine Kahaleh TURKEY E. Tan Bilge STRATEGIC VISION Peter J. Bates ASSOCIATE ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Nancy Arabadzhi ASSISTANT Maria Garza MARKETING SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, MARKETING Jillian Schulz VICE PRESIDENT, MARKETING Timothy Kellepourey SENIOR DIRECTOR, MARKETING Jennie Gilman SENIOR DIRECTOR, BRAND MARKETING Cara Wolf Erwin ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, BRAND MARKETING Carrie Slome CONSUMER INSIGHT DIRECTOR Richard Zartarian TRAVEL + LEISURE EVENTS VICE PRESIDENT, EVENT MARKETING Lauren Coughlin DIRECTOR, EVENT MARKETING Robert Sampogna ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, EVENT MARKETING Roderic David CONSUMER MARKETING AND COMMUNICATIONS VICE PRESIDENTS Steve Crowe, Bill Wood VICE PRESIDENT, BRAND COMMUNICATIONS Elizabeth Marsh SENIOR MANAGER, COMMUNICATIONS Kelly Hires ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, ACQUISITION MARKETING Silvia Rider ACQUISITION MANAGER Dawn Turner DIRECTOR, RETENTION Shana Michael SENIOR RETENTION MANAGER Mary Amadeo EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Todd Bierle CONSUMER MARKETING MANAGER Rachael Black SENIOR DIRECTOR, RETAIL MARKETING Amy Mandelbaum PRESIDENT, LIFESTYLE Alysia Borsa For all advertising inquiries, please email [email protected]. For syndication or international licensing requests, email [email protected]. For reprint and reuse permission, email [email protected]. CAROL SACHS More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
DIVE INTO ADVENTURE With French Polynesia’s Destination Expert To book your all-inclusive, luxury voyage, contact your Travel Advisor, call 844-820-5628, or visit pgcruises.com. Scan the QR code and follow the link to visit our website. TAHITI | FRENCH POLYNESIA | FIJI | SOUTH PACIFIC From paddleboarding and kayaking directly from the ship’s marina, to taking an off -road excursion in Bora Bora or co-piloting a Cessna over Moorea, the m/s Paul Gauguin promises adrenaline-inducing discovery. Come snorkel pristine lagoons, dive world-famous reefs, and fall in love with the Islands of Tahiti. More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
DISCOVERIES 12 TRAVEL+LE ISURE | JULY 2024 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The viewing deck on Jebel Jais, a mountain in Ras al- Khaimah, one of the United Arab Emirates; sunset over the Hajar Mountains; one of the area’s hiking trails. A GLOBETROTTER’S GUIDE TO THE LATEST IN TRAVEL EDITED BY ELIZABETH CANTRELL More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
TRAVELANDLEISURE.COM 13 COURTESY OF JEBEL JAIS THE WORLD’S LONGEST zipline ride lasts just three minutes. But in that heart-pumping span of time, riders traverse some 9,290 feet, soaring at speeds of up to 99 miles per hour. The setting is not a lush canopy of trees or a deep-blue lake, but the reddish-brown canyons of the Hajar Mountains, the highest range in the United Arab Emirates. Thrills like this aren’t typically front of mind when planning a trip to the U.A.E. But in the mountainous emirate of Ras al-Khaimah, in the country’s northeast, the ever-expanding cityscapes of Abu Dhabi and Dubai feel worlds away. The Hajars, which stretch from Ras al-Khaimah into neighboring Oman, were formed 70 million years ago by the convergence of the Arabian and Eurasian continental plates. The area’s rough terrain, sparse tree cover, high temperatures, and lack of water make it a challenging environment for hikers and climbers. But at Jebel Jais—a popular adventure park named for the Hajars’ highest peak, which reaches 6,345 feet—you can choose a softer entry into the region. Adventurati Outdoor, which offers overnight and multiday guided treks, often takes hikers out on the 2.3-mile Ghaff Trail. “This is a great beginner option because it is mainly downhill with few boulders,” says Fadi Hachicho, the company’s owner. “On a clear day, you can see ships at the Ras al-Khaimah port and miles of the shore along the Gulf.” Another mellow option is the 3.4-mile Samar loop, with its stunning views of deep canyons. For more intense thrills, opt for the Jais Sledder, a mountainside roller coaster that navigates more than a mile of hairpin turns, or try the ropes course and via ferrata. At the summit, there’s also a viewing deck, where food trucks park at night. The restaurant 1484 by Puro (entrées $16–$24) also has panoramic vistas of the canyons. (The number refers to its elevation in meters—the equivalent of 4,868 feet above sea level.) DESERT ROAD Beyond the glitz of Abu Dhabi and Dubai, Karthika Gupta discovers the outdoorsy side of the United Arab Emirates. More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
G E A R W E L O V E UNITED ARAB EMIRATES Ras al-Khaimah Dubai Jebel Jais 14 TRAVEL+LE ISURE | JULY 2024 DISCOVERIES FROM TOP: COURTESY OF MARRIOTT INTERNATIONAL; ANIQUE AHMED/COURTESY OF MARRIOTT INTERNATIONAL; COURTESY OF JEBEL JAIS. ILLUSTRATIONS BY BASHEL LUBARSKY To take your desert experience to more extreme heights, stay at the nearby Bear Grylls Explorers Camp (cabins from $88), which off ers a 24-hour survival course that teaches participants how to build a shelter, identify animal tracks, set traps, and skin and gut a kill . (If you’re not ready to go full-on Alone, there are also four-hour clinics for more basic wilderness skills, such as fi rst aid, starting a fi re, and rope tying.) The camp also off ers rock climbing, rappelling, and archery, as well as rental cabins. After a day or two exploring the rigorous side of the U.A.E., drive an hour southeast to the Ritz-Carlton Ras Al Khaimah, Al Hamra Beach (doubles from $474) for a much-deserved reset. Each of its 32 Bedouin-style tented villas has a plunge pool and direct access to the property’s private beach. FROM TOP Waterfront dining at the Ritz-Carlton Ras Al Khaimah, Al Hamra Beach; one of the property’s tented villas; ziplining at Jebel Jais. “The Vasque Re:Connect Now shoes ($140) have a super breathable upper and a hefty cushioned sole, keeping me comfortable on a hike, the city streets, and even the beach.” —Paul Brady, News Director More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
G E A R W E L O V E TRAVELANDLEISURE.COM 15 COURTESY OF LEGENDARY EXPEDITIONS AND MWIBA LODGE. ILLUSTRATION BY BASHEL LUBARSKY In an eff ort to support the Hadzabes’ way of life, Mwiba has allocated a portion of land where they can continue traditional practices of foraging for medicinal plants and food. During my stay , I was fortunate to meet six Hadzabe . So as not to interrupt their morning, my guide, Isaac Mnyangabe, and I silently trailed behind, observing as they collected plants and looked for honeycombs. When one of the men spotted a beehive in a tree, he crouched down and began rubbing a stick against a wooden plank until it began to smolder. Using an ax, he hacked a hole in the tree trunk and put the smoking stick inside until a swarm of bees rattled out. He then stuck his arm inside, swatting the bees away and retrieving a yellow hunk of honeycomb. He closed the hole with a piece of bark. We joined the Hadzabe on their forage for another hour that morning as they gathered a plant called palangate, which smells like lemon verbena and is used as an antiseptic. When it came time for us to leave, everyone smiled and waved goodbye, and then the Hadzabe vanished into the bush, as quickly as they’d appeared. A CLOSER CONNECTION At this Tanzanian lodge, cultural encounters take center stage. By Mary Holland FROM TOP Mwiba Lodge, set in a wildlife reserve on the edge of the Serengeti; hippos in the Arugusinyai River; hunting with a member of the Hadzabe tribe. “The Baggu Fanny Pack ($52) is my go-to for everything from a hike to a quick errand. Hands-free and waterresistant, it fits my wallet and snacks for the day ahead.” —Jess Feldman, Special Projects Editor DURING PEAK SEASON in Serengeti National Park, it can be hard to avoid other safari-goers and their clicking cameras. That’s not a problem at Legendary Expeditions’ Mwiba Lodge ( doubles from $2,280 per person , all-inclusive ), a 10-suite property that sits on a 550-square-acre private conservancy on the southern edge of Tanzania’s famous park. Guests can witness the Great Migration without the crowds. But what really distinguishes Mwiba is its cultural exchange with the Hadzabe people, a marginalized community of hunter-gatherers . More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
G E A R W E L O V E 16 TRAVEL+LE ISURE | JULY 2024 DISCOVERIES CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: COURTESY OF SWAROVSKI OPTIK; COURTESY OF NORRØNA CANVAS TELEMARK; COURTESY OF SNOW PEAK LONG BEACH CAMPFIELD; COURTESY OF EVO. ILLUSTRATION BY BASHEL LUBARSKY FLIGHT MODE Birders are likely familiar with the shouts: “I found one! It’s black with red wings. What is it?” Every head then swivels to try and identify it. Thanks to Swarovski, this exchange might be a thing of the past. The jewelry and optics company recently released a pair of AI-enhanced binoculars called AX Visio (above; $4,800) that can identify more than 9,000 species of birds and other wildlife, using both Merlin Bird ID, a popular birding app, and Swarovski’s own Mammal ID app. It’s also easy to share your finds with your companions: activate the “Share Discoveries” function, and their binoculars will display arrows pointing to where you’re looking. And if you want to snap a picture, you don’t have to switch to a camera— AX Visio also takes photos and videos. If you’re not ready to invest in your own pair, you can try them out on safari in South Africa: Swarovski has teamed up with andBeyond to make the devices available for guests at the newly reopened Phinda Forest Lodge (suites from $857 per person, all-inclusive). —JENNIFER BILLOCK SLEEPAWAY CAMP You’ve used the gear—now, at these three new properties, you can spend the night with your favorite outdoor brand. By Scott Bay FOR COASTAL RELAXATION In June, Japanese outdoors brand Snow Peak opened Campfield , an all-season campground in Long Beach, Washington. Guests can bring their own tents or book kitted-out tented suites. Later this year, micro cabins (above) will also be available, each with a queen bed, a bathroom, a living area, and a kitchenette, plus one of Snow Peak’s signature Takibi grills . The camp shop sells coff ee, beer, and regional sundries, like fresh oysters, as well as toiletries, cookware, and apparel. But the real draw is the Ofuro spa, which has a hot pool , a hinoki-cypress sauna, and a cold plunge. Tent sites from $40. FOR MULTISPORT THRILLS Evo , the online sporting-goods retailer, is opening a second Campus hotel later this year in Tahoe City, California, with a climbing gym (above), a skate park, an art gallery, and a rental shop for skis, snowboards, and bikes. Like the fi rst location, in Salt Lake City, Campus Tahoe City will cater to skiers chasing epic powder—its north-shore location is less than 20 minutes from both Palisades Tahoe and Northstar California Resort . Evo also recently acquired a hotel in Hanuka, Japan, down the road from the Happo-One resort, which hosted some events of the 1998 Winter Olympics , and will begin renovations this year. Rates not available at press time. FOR WILDERNESS CYCLING At Canvas Telemark , a mountain-biking retreat run by Norwegian retailer Norrøna , guests can tackle 74 miles of trails, on either a traditional bike or an electric model. The lakeside camp in Treungena, a remote spot 3½ hours from Oslo —has 15 yurts, each with an en suite bathroom and a fi replace. At day’s end, the two wood-burning saunas or the heated outdoor tubs (left) are perfect places to unwind and take in the surroundings. Doubles from $356. “I’ve used Vapur’s Anti-Bottle ($12), which is ultra-lightweight and collapsible, almost daily for the past year. I love it for my commute as well as trips farther afield.” —Skye Senterfeit, Deputy Photo Editor More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
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18 TRAVEL+LE ISURE | JULY 2024 HIMANSHU LAKHWANI/COURTESY OF SITARA HIMALAYA RISING STAR At a plush hotel in the Himalayas, Prasad Ramamurthy finds high design— and jaw-dropping views. THE WHINNYING startled me. I was on a walk with Prabal Singh, a mountain guide at Sitara Himalaya (doubles from $780, all-inclusive, three-night minimum), a just-launched lodge in India’s Pir Panjal range. We had paused to admire the surroundings—the gurgling of a brook, the pale pink of apricot trees in bloom—when all of a sudden several horses trotted around a bend in the path. Behind them came some bleating sheep and shaggy herd dogs and, finally, the animals’ master, who smiled and waved as he passed. Pastoral scenes like this are common at Sitara, a 10-room property owned by Anita Lal, the founder of Good Earth, India’s beloved sustainable décor and apparel brand. Sitara’s position at 7,800 feet gives it commanding views, whether of the snowcapped peaks or, from August to October, slopes covered in blue poppies and rhododendrons. As you might expect, Lal’s influence is felt in the interiors—bedroom walls are covered in silk brocade, with a Buddhist cloud motif, and have handwoven Ladakhi rugs. Elsewhere in the hotel are gold frescoes and hand-embroidered wall hangings, which feature scenes from Hindu mythology. Smaller touches felt just as indulgent: I was delighted to find heated floors in the bathroom and, at turndown, two herbal oils (one for morning and one for evening) on my nightstand. But even in such a lavish setting, in the Himalayas the natural environment takes center stage. One of the most remarkable common areas is the pavilion dedicated to stargazing; it has lounge chairs and couches beneath a skylight. Food at the lodge pays tribute to the varied cultures of the Himalayas. One day, lunch consisted of a satisfying thali, a platter with small bowls of vegetables, dal, roti, chutneys, and rice. Dinner might include momo (Tibetan dumplings) with thukpa (noodle soup), as well as barbecue and Anglo-Indian fusion dishes. While these comforts certainly encourage staying put (or perhaps taking a yoga or meditation class), guests can also explore the area on mountain treks and, in the winter, ski trails. I opted for a guided village walk; later in the afternoon, I visited the spa, which has a rock-crystal steam room, an infrared sauna, and hot and cold plunge pools. My ayurvedic massage treatment, which lasted a decadent 120 minutes, was called an “Air” journey. As I walked back to my room afterward, I glanced at the peaks outside the windows. I certainly felt as if I were walking on a cloud. AMAYA KASAULI, INDIA This 15-key lodge blends seamlessly into a pine forest on a hillside. After a hike, guests can pick fruits from the apple, pear, plum, and fig trees on site. Doubles from $360, all-inclusive. + 3 MORE NEW HIMALAYAN RETREATS FROM LEFT A sound bath in the Shanti Space at Sitara Himalaya; the lodge’s central lounge; a thali lunch spread. PEMAKO PUNAKHA, BHUTAN Designed by Bill Bensley, this property on the banks of the Mo Chhu river emphasizes relaxation and selfreflection. Each of the 21 tented villas has a private heated pool. Doubles from $1,690, all-inclusive. SHAKTI THIKSEY HOUSE LADAKH, INDIA Guests at this four-room property can visit the Stakna Monastery, a Buddhist site built in the 16th century, as well as raft the Indus River. Eight-day stays from $8,294 per person.—P.R. More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
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ADVERTISEMENT You may think you know Bermuda, but for non-locals, there are surprises around every corner. For a one-of-akind adventure beyond the famous pink shores, check out these truly Bermudian experiences and activities. If you want to know how Bermudians get down, you’ll have to raft up. These impromptu gatherings usually take place in Paradise Lakes, Mangrove Bay, and Admiralty House Park, and are the quintessential introduction to Bermuda’s legendary hospitality. For a tranquil, family-friendly beach scene, South Shore beaches offer calmer waters and fewer crowds. Play explorer for the day and follow the trails between beaches for wide ocean views and secluded coves. Held every August, Cup Match is a beloved celebration of Bermuda’s Emancipation Day. The heated match between rivals — Somerset Cricket Club and St. George’s Cricket Club — is the main event in a weekend full of games, swizzles, fresh seafood, and generations-deep Bermudian pride.. Discover a stunning jungle paradise at Walsingham Nature Reserve, where you can explore limestone caves, swim in crystal clear grottos, and marvel at native wildlife. On land, Bermuda Railway Trail is home to verdant, photogenic paths for hikers, bikers, and walkers. For the most breathtaking views of this culturally distinct archipelago, set sail on a luxury catamaran cruise. Float and snorkel in the turquoise waters, or lounge on deck and take it all in. Pro tip: Cruise at sunset for the ultimate golden hour vistas. Scan the QR code to learn more. A vibrant dynamism and rich history make Bermuda so much more than a luxurious tropical getaway. Raft Ups Beach Hopping Cup Match Natural Wonders Catamaran Cruises Enter for your chance to win a trip to Bermuda. Flush Adventure with More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
DISCOVERIES 22 TRAVEL+LE ISURE | JULY 2024 1 2 3 RISING NEARLY 700 FEET above the forest in Antioquia, a state in northwestern Colombia, is El Peñon de Guatapé, an imposing granite monolith. Each year, 1 million visitors climb its 740 steps. Most of them have been staying in the town of Guatapé, but neighboring El Peñol is now coming into its own, with new boutique hotels, restaurants, and outdoor adventures clustered around a turquoise reservoir. Here’s how to spend a long weekend in the area, which is only 90 minutes from Medellín. ROCK OF AGES An entire adventure ecosystem has sprung up at the foot of one of Colombia’s most popular natural wonders. By Nikkita Nair WHERE TO STAY KABINE These birdhouse-inspired A-frame cabins are named after species native to Colombia, including the long-tailed motmot and the emerald tanager. Guests can pluck lemons and oranges from trees in the backyard and relax in private hot tubs overlooking the Peñol Reservoir. Cabins from $160. 1. The Peñol Reservoir, in the shadow of El Peñón de Guatapé, in northwestern Colombia. 2. Breakfast at Culpable, the restaurant at Arvum Hotel. 3. A Tangara A-frame at Kabine. 4. Brightly colored buses awaiting passengers in Guatapé. 5. Climbing El Peñón de Guatapé. ATMA ECO VILLAS This waterfront property offers a mix of accommodations, including safari tents, bubble domes, tree houses, and bamboo cabins. Herbs, vegetables, and coffee are grown on site and served at the three restaurants, which spotlight Italian, Japanese, and Mexican cuisines. Villas from $270. More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
G E A R W E L O V E TRAVELANDLEISURE.COM 23 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: COURTESY OF FORD MOTOR COMPANY; COURTESY OF MUNICIPAL MAYOR’S OFFICE EL PEÑOL-ANTIOQUIA; ANAMARIA MEJIA/ALAMY; FELIPE G. VALDES/COURTESY OF KABINE; COURTESY OF MUNICIPAL MAYOR’S OFFICE EL PEÑOL-ANTIOQUIA; COURTESY OF ARVUM. ILLUSTRATION BY BASHEL LUBARSKY 4 5 “In addition to a padded laptop sleeve and space for carry-on essentials, the Hatpac backpack ($240) has a protective shell and interior hat tray, perfect for packing a fedora for safari or a Stetson for horseback riding.” —Samantha Falewée, Senior Editor WHERE TO EAT CULPABLE The restaurant at Arvum Hotel offers contemporary reinterpretations of traditional Colombian fare . The trout is sprinkled with almond flakes and served with pico de gallo and avocado. Entrées from $6. TÍPICOS This roadside restaurant is the best place to try hearty cazuela de frijoles, a flavorful bean stew. It’s made with chicharrones and plantains and comes with a side of arepas. Entrées from $4. Slow Ride In the Utah desert, Alexandra Cheney gets behind the wheel and kicks up some dust. WITH NAMES LIKE Hell’s Revenge and Poison Spider Mesa, the trails near Moab, Utah, didn’t exactly sound inviting. But sitting in the driver’s seat of an Azure Grey Ford Bronco, after coaxing the car out of a canyon to see an expanse of blue sky, I had to admit I understood the appeal. In 2021, the Ford Motor Company launched “Off -Roadeo” experiences, which were complimentary for owners of all Bronco models . These 10-hour, rugged driving expeditions were led by expert guides, either in the desert near Moab or at Ford’s “base camps” in Horseshoe Bay, Texas; Gilford, New Hampshire; and Las Vegas . The program was a hit, and last November, the company began off ering half-day clinics for the general public, so non-Bronco owners could get in on the action. I opted for the Moab location. With my guide, Brian Harris, I navigated the rutted trail, which often changed from sand to slick rock. When off -roading, you need to drive slowly, in singledigit miles per hour, and shift into 4L, or four-wheel-drive low, increasing the vehicle’s torque and crawling power to handle the terrain, which can include inclines, sharp turns, fallen trees, and large rocks. “Tread lightly,” Harris said as we approached a bend in the road. Ahead was a series of steep ledges, almost like a waterfall of rocks, including a boulder about half the size of the Bronco. Harris directed me the way an aircraft marshaler guides a plane to the gate: slowly and methodically. A touch forward, turn the wheel to the left, wait for the brakes, and tip forward. Before we tackled the next rock, the car had one wheel in the air, the trunk lifted toward the sky. I engaged the electroniclocking rear diff erential, which allows the rear wheels to move separately from the front. I rolled forward, waited for the weight of the car to catch up, and gently disengaged the brake. We glided down the boulder, hitting the dirt with satisfying aplomb. A perfect landing. Half-Day Adventure at Bronco Off-Roadeo from $795 for up to four guests. Sunset at the Bronco Off -Roadeo base camp in Moab, Utah. WHAT TO DO EL PEÑOL RESERVOIR The original site of the town of El Peñol (which was displaced in the late 1970s by the construction of a hydroelectric dam), this is a popular spot for kayaking, wakeboarding, Jet Skiing, and boating. Many hotels, including Atma and Kabine, offer rentals. LA PIEDRA DEL MARIAL This natural formation appears to defy gravity: two 195-foot-tall rocks lean against each other, creating a vast open space below. Visitors, who can hike a quarter-mile to the top for sweeping views of the reservoir, will find it less crowded than El Peñón de Guatapé. More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
G E A R W E L O V E DISCOVERIES 1 2 3 4 24 TRAVEL+LE ISURE | JULY 2024 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: HELEN SPENCELEY/PIRHUK/COURTESY OF HINOKI TRAVELS; ANINGAAQ ROSING CARLSEN/COURTESY OF VISIT GREENLAND; BETHANY BETZLER/COURTESY OF HINOKI TRAVELS; HELEN SPENCELEY/PIRHUK/COURTESY OF HINOKI TRAVELS. ILLUSTRATION BY BASHEL LUBARSKY GO WITH THE FLOE A new expedition off ers a sustainable way to experience East Greenland. By Chloe Berge “Living in New York City with a toddler can sometimes feel limiting—heavy strollers, broken elevators. The minute our son was old enough, we strapped a Thule Yepp seat ($207) on the back of my husband’s bike, and our options for weekend adventures became endless.” —Erin Agostinelli, Managing Editor “IT’S RUGGED, intense, and exhilarating,” says Bethany Betzler, the founder of Hinoki Travels, referring to the new Greenland expedition her boutique travel company is launching this month. Greenland has become a magnet for “lastchance” tourists wanting to see glaciers and icebergs before they disappear, but Betzler hopes to steer visitors toward more climate-friendly ways to explore the fragile region. That’s why the expedition is human-powered, meaning no planes or other fossil-fuel-powered vehicles are used for transportation. Instead, guests will travel on foot or by kayak. The weeklong journey will begin in Kulusuk, a small settlement on an island in the country’s east with a population of about 250. Guests will spend two days in the village learning about traditional Inuit life, visiting winter houses and summer camps, and spotting whales. Also central to the journey is learning how Inuit communities are adapting to the shifting climate. After exploring Kulusuk, the group will set out by sea kayak, led by an Inuit hunter and guide, Jokum Heimer Mikaelsen, along with Matt Spenceley, of the Greenland mountaineering company Pirhuk. Over the next fi ve days, they will hike across glaciers, into ice caves, and up small mountains. Guests will also participate in traditional Inuit foraging by collecting edible plants in the tundra and mussels along the shoreline, as well as fi shing for arctic char (served hot and sizzling on the beach). Accommodations include camping and one night in a remote cabin. While the active trek promises big moments and dramatic landscapes, it was also designed to reveal smaller, more intimate experiences: the groan of a calving glacier; a tent snapping in the lashing wind; a voice echoing across a vast blue fjord. “What makes the trip special is that you’re getting to spend a signifi cant amount of time with people who have stories to tell and insights to share,” Betzler says. “They have things to teach us.” Seven-night Interdependence: East Greenland itinerary with Hinoki Travels from $5,450 per person. 1. Camping on the fjords of East Greenland. 2. Capelin drying for long-term storage. 3. In the village of Kulusuk, residents haul in the day’s catch. 4. The village under the midnight sun. More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
TRAVELANDLEISURE.COM 25 FROM TOP: NATELEE COCKS/COURTESY OF SIRO ONE ZA’ABEEL (2); COURTESY OF ELEVEN Go Your Own Way From low-key to high-octane, these epic treks take you to the planet’s most spectacular corners. By Elizabeth Cantrell FROM TOP The gym at Siro One Za’abeel, a new fitnessfocused hotel in Dubai; guests can run sprints on a yard-marked turf. PROFESSIONAL SOCCER players run an average of seven miles per game. With the sharp turns, kicks, jumps, and collisions that occur during a match—and the fact that they do this up to three times a week in peak season—that’s a heavy load on the body. It makes you wonder: How do they do it? Find out at Siro One Za’abeel (doubles from $250), a new hotel in Dubai that allows you to perform, and recuperate, like the world’s top athletes. To pull it off, Siro partnered with AC Milan, one of the world’s powerhouse soccer clubs, tapping their physiotherapist, nutritionist, and medical team to help design the food and beverage menu and in-room amenities, the specs of the fitness spaces, and workout classes. “We wanted to create signature programs so guests could feel what it’s like to train as an AC Milan player,” says Zoe Wall, the company’s vice president of wellness. Siro (which draws its name from San Siro, AC Milan’s 75,000-seat arena) has tricked-out facilities, including a dazzling 9,600-square-foot gym overlooking Dubai’s skyline; studios for Pilates, spinning, and yoga; and an “Experience Box” for high-intensity interval training sessions, like boxing classes programmed by Ramla Ali, a professional boxer, model, and activist from Somalia. There’s also an infrared sauna, steam room, and cold plunge, plus treatments like dry needling, cryotherapy, cupping, and IV therapy. After all that exertion, a good night’s rest is essential. That’s why guest rooms were designed in consultation with sleep expert Anna West, who works with several European clubs, including AC Milan. They’re equipped with soundproofing, thermoregulated mattresses, a separate treatment space for in-room massages, and “recovery cabinets” stocked with items like resistance bands. Activities extend beyond the hotel: guests can go cycling in the nearby desert or partake in various watersports in the Gulf. Later this year, Siro will open a second outpost, on the coast of Montenegro’s Bay of Kotor, that will offer excursions into Durmitor National Park. WORK IT OUT Want to train like a pro? This hotel in Dubai will push you to your limits— and then help you recover. By Tom Vanderbilt Hiking in the French Alps with luxury lodge company Eleven. WARM UP Hike from France to Italy and back again on a three-day Alps tour with Eleven, which owns Iceland’s Deplar Farm and other high-end lodges. Each day, you’ll cover five to eight miles—including over Col du Mont, one of the highest passes in the Alps—and end with candlelit dinners in cozy stone huts on the route. From $4,257 for up to eight guests. KICK IT UP A NOTCH On the 10-day Great Serengeti Traverse run by Mark Thornton Safaris, you’ll walk a total of 62 miles through Tanzania’s famous national park, staying in minimalist mobile camps and spotting elephants, giraffes, zebras, antelope, warthogs, and more. From $12,000 per person. GO ALL OUT Embark on a rigorous 12-day exploration of Argentina’s Mitre Peninsula, on the easternmost tip of Tierra del Fuego, with operator Black Tomato. You’ll travel primarily on foot or horseback (sailboats and heli-transfers can be added) through a peatland region that’s home to several endangered species, including the Fuegian red fox and the Magellanic otter. From $62,500 per person. More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
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ILLUSTRATION BY JOANNA NEBORSKY TRAVELANDLEISURE.COM 29 Let Travel + Leisure take you on a retail journey through Europe’s most shoppable cities—Paris, Milan, Madrid, Stockholm, Berlin, and London— where centuries-old traditions meet cutting-edge designs . Edited by Denny Lee CAP ITALS STYLE FRAME: KATSUMI MUROUCHI/GETTY IMAGES More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
SHOP LIKE A LOCAL IN … 30 TRAVEL+LE ISURE | JULY 2024 FROM LEFT: GASTON SUAYA; COURTESY OF AU BAIN MARIE (4) Perfect White Shirt For him, it’s the equestrianinspired Cavalier. For her, it’s the pleated Magnifi que. Both are made by Bourrienne Paris X, a Parisian brand founded in 2017 that draws on 19th -century details for its elevated collection of crisp white shirts. “Bourrienne makes obsolete, old-fashioned looks cool again,” Le Coz says. Paris is a shopper’s paradise, and a pilgrimage to the global fashion fl agships on Avenue Montaigne may well be in order. But some stores are exclusive to the French capital. Unearthing those is a specialty of Le Coup de Foudre, a concierge agency started by Clément Le Coz and Justina Socas (below), a stylish husbandand-wife team who know all the places where the French go to shop. “When you live in Paris, you are lucky enough to have fashion and design events every week,” Le Coz says. Here are some of their favorite stores.—Rebekah Peppler PLAT DU JOUR Marie Antoinette would feel at home in Au Bain Marie, a china shop founded in 1977 and devoted to French porcelain , decorative tin-glazed plates (above), and earthenware. The gallery is stacked high with all manner of dinnerware—plates, platters, bowls, and crystal glasses . “Last time I visited, I spotted a whole tea set from the Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc,” Socas says. “I picked up the beautiful silver chocolatière.” PARIS More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
TRAVELANDLEISURE.COM 31 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: COURTESY OF MOLLI; COURTESY OF MES CHAUSSETTES ROUGES; HUGHES LAURENT/THE NEW YORK TIMES/REDUX; COURTESY OF JACQUES SOLOVIÈRE (4) H A P P Y F E E T Le Coz has a shoe closet full of loafers, but the pair he pulls out most often is by Jacques Solovière (above), a Parisian brand that makes ultra-light loafers, derbies, and slippers with a modern touch. “It is the perfect balance between gorgeous detailing and practical silhouettes,” he says. Solovière ’s classic styles are available for men and women. QUIET LUXURY If the effortlessly chic women you see strolling the Left Bank seem to be wearing a uniform, chances are they’re draped in pieces by Molli (above), a centuries-old knitwear maison that was reborn in 2014 as a contemporary label. “I wear them on a daily basis: to go out with clients, at home, or at the park with my daughter,” Socas says. “It’s a very Parisian outfit.” HAUTE HOSIERY If God is in the details, the most revealing part of a wardrobe may be your socks. That’s why Le Coz worships Mes Chaussettes Rouges (above), a 12-ye arold boutique that sells hosiery by Gammarelli (the official tailor to the pope), among others. “When you start to love socks, you look for quality and timeless elegance,” Le Coz says. Each order is wrapped in a red pouch and perfumed with Guerlain’s Habit Rouge. A N T I Q U E BOUTIQUE Fifty years ago, Didier Ludot opened a resale boutique that specializes in couture. His small shop in the Palais-Royal (left) grew to become a beloved fashion institution, serving as a style archive for designers, a red-carpet closet for celebrities, and a research library for fashion students and museum curators. “Ludot is the number one reference for luxury vintage,” Le Coz says. More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
INTERIORS SHOPPING IN… 32 TRAVEL+LE ISURE | JULY 2024 CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: MARIELA MEDINA; FILIPPO PINCOLINI; COURTESY OF OSANNA VISCONTI FROM TOP A dining table and chairs at Nilufar Gallery e Depot; bronze candleholders at Osanna Visconti. Can’t make it to Milan for its annual furniture fair? Not to worry. J. J. Martin (below), founder of the wildly colorful design brand La Double J, is an obsessive collector of all things Milanese. After moving to Italy’s style capital from California, she opened her store three years ago in the city’s “Golden Triangle” of shopping, just northeast of the Duomo . There she sells her fabulously patterned frocks, Venetian glassware, and porcelain plates from Verona. Whether you’re looking for a cute desk lamp or a keepsake vase, Martin can tell you where to fi nd it.—Gisela Williams M I L A N More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
TRAVELANDLEISURE.COM 33 FROM TOP: COURTESY OF RAIMONDO GARAU; COURTESY OF GALLERIA LUISA DELLE PIANE; COURTESY OF VICOLO VIA MAMELI; GUIDO CASTAGNOLI FROM TOP A tableau of vintage home goods at Raimondo Garau; handpicked objets at Galleria Luisa Delle Piane; plates from Vicolo Via Mameli. ISOLA Rossana Orlandi (left), a doyenne of Milanese design, is always on the lookout for new talents and concepts. Her current initiatives include RoGuiltless Plastic, which challenges designers to give new life to plastic waste. Lately, the 80-year-old gallerist has set her sights on Isola, a neighborhood just north of the city center that has attracted design workshops, thrift stores, and art studios. FOR DESIGN SNOBS Dimore “You can’t go to Milan without seeing the latest at the Dimore gallery . They sell a wonderful mix of highly collectible mid-century pieces, as well as new designs they produce themselves in Italy. It’s very sophisticated and hypercool—a mecca for advanced design buffs. FOR RETRO LIGHTS Naviglio In “This is a tiny lighting shop along the canal that’s totally unassuming from the outside, and like Aladdin’s cave on the inside. It’s crammed floor-toceiling with everything from 18th-century sconces to cool mid-century lamps.” FOR COTTAGE-CORE FANS Vicolo Via Mameli “This charming home-goods shop is run by the cutest couple ever—Nicola Pozzi and his American partner, Ryan Weimer . All the items are thoughtfully curated: hand- dipped candles, antique baskets, lamps, jewel-toned velvet pillows, throws. It’s a super intimate store that feels like you’re stepping into someone’s cottage in the hills of Piedmont.” FOR BRONZE BUFFS Osanna Visconti “Osanna makes these incredible furnishings and objects from natural bronze, all entirely by hand using the ancient, lost-wax casting technique . I’m obsessed with her candelabras and bowls. ” FOR VINTAGE LOVERS Raimondo Garau “Raimondo is my secret weapon in Milan. The store is very hit-or-miss, but if you talk to him about what you need, he’s got the best eye and his prices are lower than you’ll find elsewhere. He’s helped me find so many things for my apartment.” Her recommendations include Algranti Lab, which creates pieces from recycled materials; Lampo , a former rail yard used for exhibits, music, and food festivals; Angelo della Pergola 1, an experimental studio; and SPBH Space, a ceramicsfocused “laboratory and community center.” “Isola is where so many things are happening at the moment, from design to food and fashion,” Orlandi says . FOR HEIRLOOM PIECES Nilufar Gallery e Depot “This iconic spot has two locations. The one in Centrale is an exhibition space, with the most exquisitely sourced, rare mid-century gems (with prices to match). The one in Brera is more like a shoppable gallery. Both are worth a visit, if for no other reason than to ogle.” FOR DECORATIVE ARTS Galleria Luisa Delle Piane “Luisa is truly one of the grande dames of Italian design. Her store showcases art, design, and jewelry. If you’re lucky, you can catch a peek of her in one of her classic nineties Comme des Garçons outfits. She’s unbelievably chic.” UP-AND-COMING More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
CALL 888-831-0797 | VISIT OCEANIACRUISES.COM/TL | CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR The sense of warmth and camaraderie from dedicated staff. The thrill of becoming awestruck as you arrive at a fabled destination for the first time. The joy of celebrating life, with indulgent cuisine. It’s the personal experiences that will last a lifetime. More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
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10 a.m. FOOD SHOPPING INÉ 36 TRAVEL+LE ISURE | JULY 2024 FROM LEFT: CECILIA ALVAREZ-HEVIA; SALVA LOPEZ 10 A.M. Cortado Time Acid Shop is a playful addition to Madrid’s barista scene. Its third café, in an old gemstone shop in the lively Chueca district, is Instagram-ready and coffeeobsessed. “I wouldn’t go somewhere where the coffee is bad, even if the space was beautiful,” Diez says. While waiting for your hand-brewed flat white and croissant, shop for specialty beans from La Cabra, mugs by local cerami sts, and cool store merch, including T-shirts. 11 A.M. Fancy Feast Madrid’s historic food markets are being gradually modernized into epicurean food courts. “In the best cases they retain their historic charm,” Diez says. Mercado de San Antón , also in Chueca, has pioneered this transformation . The once-dingy market was revamped in 2021 with a bright atrium, terrace, and top-quality shops. There’s a fishmonger, a wine store, a florist, and a delicatessen on the first floor; upstairs you’ll find a dozen food stalls, including La Taberna de La Ancha, an outpost of a 100-year-old restaurant known for its tortilla with squid ink. 1 P.M. Made in Spain Pez Casa is Diez’s go-to for handmade tableware and other home goods. “It’s like entering a well-designed living room,” Diez says. Peruse handwoven linens, M A D R I D Madrid’s food scene is booming with gourmet food halls, third-wave coff ee shops, natural wine bars, and an infl ux of global cuisine. Clara Diez (below), the founder of the chic cheese boutique Formaje, fi nds herself continually amazed by the ambition of young chefs who are lifting the city’s gastronomic standards. She also cherishes the traditional markets and mesones (taverns) . “The combination of new and historic creates a really vibrant atmosphere.” Diez says. Here, her guide to a perfect foodie day in the Spanish capital.—R.P. More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
11 a.m. 1 p.m. 3 p.m. 4 p.m. 6 p.m. TRAVELANDLEISURE.COM 37 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: MARU SERRANO; COURTESY OF PEZ CASA; ALVARO GERMAN VILELA/SHUTTERSTOCK; COURTESY OF ÁBBATTE; GUNNAR KNECHTEL/LAIF/REDUX cashmere blankets, candles, and ceramics by the Spain-based workshop Laonpottery . For more housewares by local artisans, including handwoven esparto baskets and blown-glass vases, Diez recommends Cocol, in the neighborhood of La Latina. 2 P.M. Sweet Tooth Opened in 1914, La Duquesita is one of the city’s oldest pastelerías. Chocolates, sold in a signature turquoise box with red lettering, make for a sweet souvenir. The store is also famous for its flaky croissants and scrumptious pastries . 3 P.M. Gourmet Garage Follow the locals to Mercado de la Paz , one of the city’s oldest food markets, in the upscale Salamanca district. “Everyone who lives nearby goes there for their daily shopping,” Diez says. While travelers can’t bring fresh produce or meats through U.S. customs, the market does sell wine, condiments, and other packaged goods. It also offers a delicious slice of everyday Madrid, with places to sample empanadas and other savory bites. 4 P.M. Pantry Delights Around the corner is Mantequerías Bravo , the city’s most handsome gourmet store. Founded in 1931, the venerable grocer is packed floor to ceiling with Spanish goodies, including tins of Cantabrian anchovies from Don Bocarte, jars of roasted artichokes by Agnoni, and fragrant boxes of saffron from La Mancha. “It is an obligatory stop,” Diez says. 6 P.M. Table Manners For gorgeous table linens, rugs, and cushions made with natural fibers and dyes, head to Ábbatte , a store near Retiro Park run by a motherdaughter team. The textiles are handwoven in a former monastery in Segovia, about 60 miles north of the city. Enthusiasts can sign up for workshops . “It is a small temple dedicated to calm,” Diez says. More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
SPORTSWEAR SHOPPING IN… 38 TRAVEL+LE ISURE | JULY 2024 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF UNNA; COURTESY OF JENNIE ROSÉN; COURTESY OF UNNA; COURTESY OF HOUDINI (2); COURTESY OF HAGLÖFS SURFING The chilly waters of the Baltic Sea may not seem like an obvious place to surf, but the Stockholm Archipelago has a few choice spots to ride a wave, including Torö, about 45 miles south of the Swedish capital . A young surf culture has given rise to the Stockholm Surfboard Club, a fashion company founded by former Acne Studios designers . Its pieces are sold at many boutiques, including Nitty Gritty and JUS . “This is the brand to watch,” Rosén says. “It mixes art and surfing fashion, and makes very durable swimsuits.” HIKING The pine forests in and around Stockholm can be explored along numerous hiking trails, all free and open to visitors thanks to allemansrätten, the Swedish right of public access, which is protected by law. A respect for nature also informs Houdini, a sportswear label that embraces sustainability— not just in its use of fabrics but also in how products are sold. The brand’s stylish yet technical hiking gear can be bought new or secondhand, rented, or repaired at its Stockholm flagship. “They are at the forefront of different business models,” Rosén says. TRAIL RUNNING Trail running is a huge pastime among sporty Swedes, and having the right fit goes a long way. “I personally love to run so I am a big fan of Unna,” Rosén says. She likes the running label’s playful, feel-good design, including a flower-print T-shirt that reads SLOW MOTION IS BETTER THAN NO MOTION. Unna also has an active “Smiles Club” on the popular running and cycling app Strava . Its products are sold online and at the NK department store in Stockholm. MOUNTAINEERING The greater Stockholm area is an urban rock climber’s playground, with granite crags everywhere —including Kanalklippan, a blasted rock face along the Danvik canal in the city center. While these crags are not the most challenging climbs, their proximity to the city is unique, which explains how outfitters like Klättermusen have flourished. “It produces some of the world’s most refined mountaineering equipment,” Rosén says. “It also makes fantastic backpacks.” Klättermusen goods are sold in stores throughout Stockholm, including NK and Naturkompaniet. SKIING Snow never seems that far away in Sweden, and by October, parts of the country may be a winter wonderland. Whether it’s cross-country skiing at Hellasgården (a park near Stockholm) or downhill skiing at Hammarbybacken (a slope in the city center), Swedes don’t fool around when it comes to gearing up. Haglöfs, an outdoor-clothing company, has been keeping them warm since 1914, making all kinds of winter wear, including jackets, boots, and backpacks. “It’s a brand well rooted in a Swede’s everyday wardrobe,” Rosén says. The flagship store is in the center of town. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT A long-sleeve shirt by Unna; socks by Unna; a windbreaker by Houdini; the fl agship Houdini store; outdoor gear at Haglöfs. S T O C K HO L M Stockholm, a city infatuated with both fi tness and fashion, is a hotbed of athleisure wear. Clothing brands are blending Swedish style with rugged sports apparel to create new looks for working out, running, cycling, and even surfi ng. “We have an excellent music and tech scene, and nature is so accessible, so brands are tying these worlds together and innovating,” says Jennie Rosén (left), CEO of the Swedish Fashion Council, a design incubator. Here are her picks for looking sharp while staying fi t.—G.W. More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
TRAVELANDLEISURE.COM 39 VINTAGE SHOPPING INÉ CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY OF AURA; COURTESY OF FINAL LAYER; JACLYN LOCKE; COURTESY OF GARMENTS VINTAGE (2) AURA BERLIN This boutique specializes in handmade silk kimonos from the 1920s to the 80s, all sourced from small-town vendors and auctions in Japan. “This is a really special place, filled with racks and racks of gorgeous kimonos,” Keyhani says. GARMENTS VINTAGE With two young children, Keyhani may have moved past her clubbing days, but she still dresses like she’s heading to Berghain, the infamous Berlin nightclub . She stops at this store to pick up statement pieces, like a pair of Chanel gloves or a headdress made from peacock feathers. FINAL LAYER This gallery-like boutique specializes in highly coveted secondhand pieces from the 1980s and 90s, like a Romeo Gigli bubble tube top The German capital is known for futuristic, avant-garde fashion, but it is also home to some of Europe’s best vintage stores. Just ask Maryam Keyhani (below), an artist and hatmaker who grew up in Iran and Toronto and has lived in Berlin for 10 years. Keyhani’s namesake shop in the Prenzlauer Berg district is popular with club kids and grande dames alike . She shares the space with So Last Season, a by-appointment fashion archive . “Being cool in Berlin is about making your own style,” she says. “Not buying it from a mainstream brand.” Read on for her most cherished spots for thrifting.—G.W. from the 1990s and a T-shirt from Def Leppard’s 1981 European tour. “Who doesn’t love the 80s and 90s?” she says . “I worry about things like, ‘Who will be the next Grace Jones?’ ” MIMI To visualize this store, imagine a huge walk-in closet of a Weimar-era movie star, filled with flapper dresses, zoot suits, and old mirrors. “This place is amazing for antique textiles and historical costumes.” ARKONAPLATZ FLOHMARKT Held on a quaint square every Sunday, this flea market specializes in vintage clothing and design, including East Germany‒era sunglasses and mid-century ceramic lamps. “Fun for the whole family, because there is a playground in the middle.” B E R L I N CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Kimonos at Aura Berlin; a T-shirt from Final Layer; a suede bag and earrings from Garments Vintage. More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
40 TRAVEL+LE ISURE | JULY 2024 MENSWEAR SHOPPING INÉ L O N D O N Savile Row is a place defi ned by heritage, but that’s not to say that the men’s suiting mecca doesn’t evolve . New tailors are upending sartorial traditions and pushing the boundaries of bespoke menswear. Leading this shift is Rav Matharu (right), a former soccer player who started clothsurgeon, a brand that blends streetwear with bespoke tailoring. Think made-to-measure bomber jackets, tracksuits stitched from Italian leather, and fi shing vests made from houndstooth wool. Matharu opened his store at 40 Savile Row in 2022 and brought a younger, more diverse clientele to the area. “Streetwear still has some stigma among traditional Savile Row customers,” Matharu says. “But for us, there’s no real limitation on what you can create. It’s about elevating an individual’s personal style.” Neighbors have embraced him. “When you’re walking down the Row, you’re constantly bumping into people, saying hello and catching up,” he says. He fondly recalls a conversation with Edward Sexton, whose original store opened in 1969 and was frequented by the Beatles, David Bowie, and Elton John. “He was really happy to see us doing something diff erent on the Row,” A sketch of Adret’s exterior. More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
9 8 7 6 5 4 1 3 2 Savile Row Clifford St. Old Burlington St. Cork St. Burlington Gardens New Burlington St. FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF ADRET; OLLIE ADEGBOYE; COURTESY OF MARCEL RODRIGUES; COURTESY OF DRAKE’S; COURTESY OF THE DECK Matharu says. “He talked about his early days, working with the likes of Mick Jagger and unapologetically changing what a British suit looks like.” Matharu regards Sexton as the Row’s original rebel—not just for disrupting men’s fashion with sharp silhouettes and vivid colors but also for installing windows that allowed passersby to peer inside (before that, storefronts were cloaked in heavy curtains). Sexton died in 2023, but the Edward Sexton store remains at No. 35, with new collections still dropping . Innovation continues up and down the Row, Matharu says. A few doors away at No. 32 is the Deck, the street’s fi rst and only female-run tailoring house exclusively for women. Founded in 2019 by Daisy Knatchbull, a fashion executive turned designer, the bright shop specializes in elegant jackets, tailored trousers, and bridal suits. Next door at No. 31 is Holland & Sherry, a revered cloth supplier established in 1836. Along with Scabal at No. 12 and Dormeuil and Loro Piana (on nearby Sackville and New Bond Streets, respectively), they provide the textiles for clothsurgeon and other tailors. “They are some of the best fabric suppliers in the world, so to have them on your doorstep is special,” Matharu says. “We take clients over to their showrooms, so they can touch and feel the cloth and really get the full experience.” Continuing north, at No. 20 is Marcel Rodrigues, the fi rst bespoke hatter on the Row, which opened in 2023. Rodrigues handcrafts all types of chapeaus, including fedoras and cowboy hats. Matharu has collaborated with Rodrigues on several pieces, including a rabbit-fur-felt docker hat for the retired soccer player Ian Wright. Matharu also recommends taking a quick detour to Adret, at 15c Cliff ord Street, which makes relaxed, drapey leisure wear for men, including linen polo shirts and cashmere jerseys. “Adret is very diff erent from the rest of the Row,” he says. “The aesthetic is loose. They really nailed that eff ortless style.” Also on Cliff ord Street, at No. 17, is Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery, which was established in 1906 and specializes in knitwear, hats, and other men’s accessories. Matharu may soon pay them a visit. “I exhausted the gray neckerchief I wear .” Back on the Row, the fi nal stop is Drakes, at No. 9, “a modern British take on Ivy Style ,” he says. Known for its relaxed chore coats and rugged chambray shirts, Drakes began in East London in 1977 and opened its Savile Row fl agship in 2019. For Matharu, being on Savile Row has not only raised clothsurgeon’s profi le but also sharpened its vision. “We’ve been able to tell the story a little bit more clearly since opening,” he says.—R.P. FROM TOP The clubby showroom of Drake’s; ready-towear hats at Marcel Rodrigues; the formal exterior of the Deck. 1. clothsurgeon 2. Drake’s 3. Scabal 4. Edward Sexton 5. The Deck 6. Marcel Rodrigues 7. Holland & Sherry 8. Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery 9. Adret More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
42 TRAVEL+LE ISURE | JULY 2024 EXPERIENCES TRAVELERS’ TALES, FROM NEAR + FAR EDITED BY DENNY LEE Kangaroos near Esca, a retreat in South Australia’s Inman Valley. More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
TRAVELANDLEISURE.COM 43 Nature Hop John Muir, the father of America’s national parks, visited the wooded hills of South Australia more than a century ago. Tony Perrottet retraces his botanical journey. IN 1903, THE AMERICAN conservationist John Muir—legendary nature writer, founder of the Sierra Club, lover of sequoias, camping buddy of Teddy Roosevelt—set off on a botanical world tour or, as he called it, a “tree hunt.” Then, as today, Australia was a dream destination for nature lovers. Muir’s steamer paused at Adelaide, the capital of the state of South Australia, for only one day. But with his usual prodigious energy, the 65-year-old Muir—who sported a long white beard and exuded an impish sense of humor—dashed to the city’s Botanic Gardens, which was bursting with otherworldly Aussie fl ora . Muir was in raptures. From there, he wrote of gazing up at the thickly wooded Adelaide Hills to the city’s east . “Wish I could have spent a week in them,” he wrote wistfully. Had he done so, Muir would have been astonished to discover three Californian sequoias growing on a regal private estate. The saplings had been planted a half-century earlier by an obsessive tree lover, Arthur Hardy , as part of an informal botanical exchange between the United States and Australia . In 2021 , some 120 years after Muir’s visit, a luxurious guesthouse opened next to the Hardys’ mansion in the hills and was named Sequoia Lodge in honor of the Californian trio on its grounds. As an Australian expat living in New York, I became fascinated by this eccentric tale. I wanted to make the trip that Muir couldn’t and spend as much time as possible in the hills and wild countryside he’d glimpsed back in 1903. But rather than abide by Muir’s notorious austerity (he was famous for his spartan diet), I would revel in the region’s famed dining scene , mapping out a road trip that would combine gastronomy and even a little art with an outdoor regimen of bushwalking and roo-watching. Following Muir’s tree-hunting instincts, I arrived in Adelaide and made a beeline for the PHOTOGRAPHS BY SIA DUFF More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
44 TRAVEL+LE ISURE | JULY 2024 E FROM TOP A gallery of native plants at the Santos Museum of Economic Botany; the museum, which is set in a park; a mushroom display. OPPOSITE The 75-foot-tall tree at the Sequoia Lodge. Botanic Gardens. Its verdant groves and sculpted lawns patrolled by long-legged native ibises have barely changed since Muir’s visit, although a century-plus of robust tree growth has obscured any views of the hills. In the leafy heart of the gardens, I was delighted to spot one of Australia’s quirkiest relics: the Santos Museum of Economic Botany, housed in an edifice that resembles a Grecian temple. When the museum opened in 1881, it showed newly arrived immigrants which crops would grow in the Aussie soil and, thus, how to turn a profit. Displayed in antique glass cases are dozens of eerily beautiful papier-mâché models of fruit and fungi made by a German artist group, Heinrich Arnoldi & Co. “It’s so calming here,” whispered my guide at the museum. Few know about the quirky institution, she added, but those who stumble across it are bewitched. A dreamlike aura lingered as I strolled toward the city center along North Terrace, feeling as if I’d been caught in a scene from the cult Peter Weir movie Picnic at Hanging Rock. “This is our equivalent of Museum Mile in Manhattan,” said my guide at the South Australian Museum, which I visited next. Its regal galleries showcase raw opals and the world’s largest collection of Aboriginal artifacts, including shields, totems, spears, and boomerangs—one of which is more othan 7,000 years old. Looming next door was the equally majestic State Library of South Australia, where scholars were hunched over desks like medieval scribes. A creaking staircase led to a silent, light-filled chamber where faded survey maps were spread on mahogany Rising near my door was one of the three sequoias, a mere 170 years old. More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
AUSTRALIA Sydney Adelaide GREAT AUSTRALIAN BIGHT TRAVELANDLEISURE.COM 45 tables. Delicate engravings of Aussie fl ora hung alongside a marble sculpture of John McDouall Stuart, a Boy’s Own –style explorer who set off from Adelaide into the outback . Had John Muir visited this lovely time capsule? A wizened librarian looked puzzled. “Never heard of him,” he said before looking Muir up in the catalogue. “Oh, yes, we’ve got one of his books!” He produced an 1894 volume, Muir’s The Mountains of California. I photographed the book’s opening pages on my iPhone and read them that evening. Over a dinner of crayfi sh (as they call lobster locally) at Arkhé (entrées $10–$48), an open-fl ame restaurant in Adelaide, I took in Muir’s delirious descriptions of the Sierra Nevada and sequoias, which he called “the king of conifers.” The next morning, I set off on my tree-hunt road trip. A few miles into my drive, the cityscape gave way to a winding mountain road crowded on both sides by the gorgeous bush (or wild forests, in Aussie parlance) of the Adelaide Hills. Roughly the size of New York City , the hills are a mixture of raw national parkland, manicured farms, and vineyards, many cultivated in the 1800s by German winemakers who had escaped religious persecution in Europe. The thriving wineries of modern-day Australia would no doubt astonish those Lutheran pioneers, not to mention the self-denying John Muir— although they surely would be fascinated by how botany has been modernized and commercialized. That trend was evident at my fi rst stop: Jurlique, the plant-based-skin-care brand that grows its own ingredients on a 154-acre organic farm . The manager, Cherie Hutchinson, led me through fi elds of violet, licorice, chamomile, and other Mediterranean transplants. “Hot summers and wet winters are perfect for plants,” she said of the local climate. Still, rural Australia poses its challenges . She tut-tutted at a mangled rose bed, muttering, “Some roos have been nibbling these!” That afternoon, I reached Sequoia Lodge (doubles from $322, three-night minimum ), a resort that revealed itself as a row of 14 modern glass-and-wood suites on the edge of a sandstone bluff . Rising near my door was one of the three sequoias planted by Arthur Hardy in 1852 . A mere 170 years old, the 75-foot-tall tree is an infant compared with the oldest of its American brethren, some of which started growing long before the Parthenon was built in Athens. The other two were growing a few yards away in the private garden of Mount Lofty House, the Hardys’ majestic mansion (and now a separate boutique hotel). A passion for trees would have been all that Hardy would have shared with the frugal Muir. Hardy was sort of an antipodean Jay Gatsby, a lawyer, politician, and party animal. He and his wife, Martha, lived in what she described as “a kind of feudal splendor,” hosting decadent dinners and soirées for well-to-do farmers and Adelaide worthies. Today that tradition of festive gastronomy is kept alive at Hardy’s Verandah Restaurant , which has terrifi c valley views. There are several hiking trails that start near the lodge, so the next morning I set off with a hotel guide, Elisa Rigato . A few steps along the Heysen Trail, we spotted a plump koala sleeping in a tree, along with two species of rosella, a parrot-like bird. About an hour later, we arrived at Cleland Wildlife Park, which has a rescue center for injured marsupials, where we saw a dozen more koalas drowsing in gum trees behind a fence. “They have all the eucalyptus leaves they can eat, and they get sprayed by misting machines if it gets too hot,” Rigato said. “It’s luxury.” On our walk back, she explained that the trail, which runs 750 miles from the coast to the outback, was named after Hans Heysen, a mid-20th-century landscape painter who lived in the hills. Digging a little deeper, I found that Heysen had migrated from Germany as a child and became famous for his romantic watercolors of blue gum trees and sheep ILLUSTRATION BY BASHEL LUBARSKY set against majestic empty skies. When Muir visited More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
46 TRAVEL+LE ISURE | JULY 2024 E FROM TOP Sequoia Lodge’s restaurant; Muir’s book, part of the State Library collection; the sleek suites at Sequoia Lodge. Australia in 1903, Heysen would have just returned from art school in Paris, but had the pair ever met, I thought to myself, they would surely have regarded each other as soulmates. Intrigued, the following day I toured Heysen’s estate, the Cedars, outside Hahndorf, a town that wears its German heritage proudly. “Hans was a conservationist before it was popular in Australia,” said a volunteer guide, Jo Kerestes, as we wandered the serene home and gardens. Heysen lived there with his wife and their eight children, like the von Trapp family. They were great entertainers, luring Hollywood stars and European aristocrats. “Laurence Olivier and Vivien Leigh performed Shakespeare here. Anna Pavlova danced,” Kerestes said proudly as she showed me a modest stage in the living room. The farther south I drove, the wilder South Australia became. For my last night, I headed about an hour to the spectacular Fleurieu Peninsula, which protrudes from the continent’s underbelly toward the Great Australian Bight, the large oceanic bay off the southern coast. Taking my dream of wilderness to the extreme, I had signed up to stay in one of the remote modern cabins at the lowimpact, eco-friendly Esca (doubles from $320, three-night minimum), in the Inman Valley. As the last rays of golden sunlight faded, I turned onto an unpaved track flanked by shadowy bush. There wasn’t another car on the road. Cell phone reception faded, and the radio crackled. A few kangaroos stared at me from the side of the road and bounded away. After rounding a bend, however, I was astonished to see an enormous bonfire on a hilltop. When I paused to take a photo of the blaze, two silhouetted figures waved at me to join. They were Esca’s owners, Mark Kirk and Claire Mills, who were burning branches cleared from their land. Nearby they had set up a sunset picnic with local Roquefort and Camembert and sparkling wine from Mosquito Hill. Solitude, I decided, was overrated. Far more satisfying was this open-air aperitif with new friends, watching the sky turn lurid shades of pink and orange. The next morning, Mills offered to take me hiking along the coastal section of the Heysen Trail. The path snaked along Waitpinga Cliffs, through a tangle of salt-toughened scrub, gnarled branches, and spiky plants that might have been plucked from an episode of the sci-fi series Lost in Space. Hovering in the distance were the tiny islands Iles Bourdet and the Pages, which hard-bitten Yankee whalers sailed by in the 19th century. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky, but a chilly gale blasted up from the Southern Ocean. This was the last stop before Antarctica, and it felt like it. At last, the trail descended to Kings Beach, where bulbous heads of seaweed bobbed between enormous boulders in the water—like Neptune’s bathtub. I was longing for a swim, but the air was icy and the water near freezing. I had to ask myself: What would John Muir have done? There was no other choice but to strip off my shirt and shoes and throw myself into the waves. I lasted about five seconds, but I’ve seldom felt so alive. More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)
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48 TRAVEL+LE ISURE | JULY 2024 EXPERIENCES KATE ESHELBY HERD OF HORSES thundered down a slope, through tall grass feathered with golden light. The animals, including the one I was riding, charged across the wide, unbroken steppe of central Mongolia, their tails fanning out and their manes flapping wildly. In the lead was Dashaa Lkhagvajav, who sported the trilby hat commonly worn by herders in Mongolia. He stood up straight in his metal stirrups, his body raised above the traditional wooden saddle, the reins in one hand, riding with ease. CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE Games and books inside the “magic ger” lounge at Mandala Nomadic, in Mongolia; Zukar Amankyeldi, the camp’s butler; a rainbow stretches over the camp. The Great Wide Open At a new camp in the steppes of central Mongolia, Kate Eshelby saddles up for the adventure of a lifetime. A More Newspaper and Magazines Telegram Channel join Search https://t.me/Magazines_8890050582 (@Magazines_8890050582)