JUMP START by Robb Armstrong THATABABY by Paul Trap FOR BETTER OR FOR WORSE by Lynn Johnston PICKLES by Brian Crane April 28, 202 4
ROSE IS ROSE by Pat Brady & Don Wimmer BLISS by Harry Bliss POOCH CAFÉ by Paul Gilligan April 28, 202 4
THE B OS TO N G LOBE | APRIL 2 8, 20 24 3 0 W AY S TK AYAKING THE CHARLES . ALL O F I T. B ET H TEITELL O N CHAO S I N THE AIRPLANE AISLES
APRIL 28, 2024 1 T O H AV E
2 THE BOSTON GLOBE MAGAZINE See PlymoSee Rockland SeePSee N orwell The Company Theatre Mother’s Day Memorial at Remembrance Park
Town of PLYMOUTH outh County See Middleboro See Plymouth Plymouth.com Boston Tavern Fuller Shallop, Plimoth Patuxet Museums
WWW . B ARH ARB OF AMILY OWNED & O PER A TE D | B A R HARBOAcadiaInn • Bar Harbor Inn • Atlantic Oceanside Hotel • Bar HarboA C A D I A N A TShare Your Love For Acadia. Start a Family Tradition. ImmeheartlocatlauncadvenAcad
APRIL 28, 2024 3 O R A C A D I A . C O M OR ’ S HIGHE S T T R AV ELER R A NKED H OTEL S or Grand Hotel • Bar Harbor Motel•Villager Motel • Hampton Inn I O N A L PA R K erse yourself in the t of Acadia. Our ions offer the perfect chpad for your ntures in ia National Park.
4 T H E BOSTON GLOBE MAGAZINE EDITOR Francis StorrsART DIRECTORMaura Intemann ARTICLES EDITORS Young-Jin Kim, Annalisa Quinn WEBPRKatz,Melissa Schorr EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Clara Faulkner ASSISTANT DESIGNER Sharon Chen EDITORAT LARG(617.929.2034; [email protected]) PRODUCTIONDIRECTORCesar Molina PAGINATORJames Kenney RESERVATIONS FOR ADVERTISING SPACE ARE DUE BY THE FOURTH WEDNESDAY BEFORE PUBLICATION. WE REGRET WE ATRADEMARK OF BOSTON GLOBE MEDIA PARTNERS, LLC. COPYRIGHT © 2024, BOSTON GLOBE MEDIA PARTNERS, LLC, 1 EXCHAPRIL 28, 2024 18 Have a Perfect Cape Cod Day When it comes to summer vacation, the Cape has few rivals. We asked Globe writers and contributors to share some of their favorite places to eat, play, and make memories, from the Upper Cape all the way to Provincetown. 26 ConqInstead of takinwriter and his higkayaking the entexperience, but thB26 SUMME R T R
RODUCERStacey Myers COPYEDITOR Carrie Simonelli CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Lisa Button, Marni Elyse GE Neil Swidey EDITORIAL OFFICE [email protected] VICEPRESIDENT,CORPORATE SALES Erin Kimball RE UNABLE TO RESPOND TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS. THE MAGAZINE’S NAME (FORMERLY NEW ENGLAND®) IS A HANGE PLACE, SUITE 201, BOSTON, MA 02109-2132. 6 Comments 8 Perspective Are We All One Overhead Bin Battle Away From an In-Flight Meltdown? 10Your Week Ahead Solve a Murder Mystery, Attend a Sustainability Fashion Show, and More 11 Love Letters Spring Fling 12 Style Watch ’70sInspiration 13On the Block $750,000 Homes 14 Cooking Italian Classics 16 Miss Conduct Date With an Oversharer 17 Dinner With Cupid Like Cats and Dogs 30The Puzzle Page 31 Connections Return to 1953 On the Cover: Images from Adobe Stock; Globe staff illustration bostonglobe.com/magazine Followus on Instagram and Twitter @bostonglobemag Top Spots to Live / April 21 Visit globe.com/magazine and check out our guide to 36 communities in Greater Boston that buyers are eager to call home. Plus, the mystery behind housing price drops in some swanky suburbs. College & Careers / April 14 Is college still worth the cost? We surveyed 6,000 New Englanders to find out. Plus, why conservatives turned against higher education. Your Home: Renovations April 7 A look at houses that live larger without addingalot of floor space. Also in this issue: Eight interior design myths and mistakes, and how to fix them. quering the Charles ng up pickleball, a middle-aged gh school buddy set their sights on tire Charles River. They had little ey were bound for Boston Harbor. BY GERRY BROWN AVE L PHOTOG RAPH BY DAVID D EGNER FO R TH E BOSTO N G LOBE
When’s the best time to plant this spring? Ask the new Globe weather team. Lead meteorologist Ken Mahan joins Dave Epsteinour expanded weather team to bring you the sciencbehind our region’s weather, enhanced daily forecaand extreme-weather alerts. Check your forecast now at Globe.com/weather
APRIL 28, 2024 5 n and ce asts,
6 THE BOSTON GLOBE MAGAZINE NumbersGame Christine Koh’s Perspective on ageism (“Forget the Ageist Stereotypes. I’m 50—and in My Prime,” March 10) truly resonated with me. I was recently laid off from my job at age 64. Not ready to retire, I was concerned about the very real possibility of ageism in my job search. I was fortunate, though, to connect with an employer who valued my experience, knowledge, and mature work ethic. Now each workday is something to look forward to, full of the stimulation of learning new systems and appreciating the styles and perspectives of my new (mostly younger) colleagues. MarciaAllison Maynard Kudos to Ms. Koh for her clear and supportive article on aging. She touched on many aspects, including anti-aging products. This inclusive article speaks to healthy aging, finding purpose, and not tying oneself with their work. She quotes scientists who research and acknowledge the role of nutrition, exercise, and sleep for healthy aging. Each reader can do their part, as the author suggests, when confronted with typical statements that seem to be complimentary but really endorse a youth-obsessed culture. Live your values out loud and willingly offer your age to everyone. Terry E.Ruby Taunton Natural Connections What an amazing person YoYo Ma is—truly a gift to the entire world (“The Symphony of Nature and Healing,” March 10). His words tell us what we need to survive in our souls as a culture. He COMMENTS knows we are inseparable from nature and we need to keep that empathetic connection. Losing it, we lose ourselves. I too worry about what my grandchildren “won’t” have in terms of this connection. Life is too fast and instant gratification is the normal; and we can’t hear our own inner voices, never mind nature’s and our fellow beings’. Stephanie Bottcher Londonderry,NewHampshire Whatabeautiful article! My wish is that every liberal arts professor in Massachusetts read this article...and make it required reading for his/her students. MaryW. Conseur The writeris aretired professor attheUniversity ofBridgeport. A heartfelt “amen” to Yo-Yo Ma’s thoughtful words. It’s up to each of us to find ways to make this understanding and vision part of our own lives. amika45 posted on bostonglobe.com Picture-Perfect Thank you to writer Matthew Kastel for the amazing Connections, “The Portrait” (March 10). Honly one who ctake their eyespainting. Eventhis letter,Istibeing drawn bportrait.Ibeliegot the face juslook at the paiyoung boy andthink of all of tahead of him. The author wra talented artiswords run smothe page so thoThe love that hcontinues to hfather shines tLoved what Ka“That’s what apassion laid oufor the entire wTonaThe joy, kindnshows in the pfather. It seemhim—his warmtrait of the wriible. In it,Isawam 80 and hav
PAINTING BY RO GER K ASTE L e is not the couldn’t s off of that n as I compose ill find myself back to the eve his dad st right. As I inting, I see a d it makes me the life he has DoloresSalerno Wakefield rites much like st paints. His oothly across oughtfully. he had and ave for his through. Kathy Burokas Marshfield astel said: art is—man’s ut on canvas world to see.” JeanneGugino awanda,NewYork ness, and love picture of the ms to capture mth. The poriter— incredw his father. I ve lost many wonderful people— like the father, who could follow his passion but never let it overshadow his love of life and the world. JacquieKay Cambridge Beautiful and touching tribute toatalented artist and father. MarkVatousiou Feeding Hills After relocating to this area, internationally known artist Roger Kastel joined the Wellesley Society of Artists and, over the years, participated in many of our shows. The words that come to mind to describe Roger are generous, kind, humble, and enormously talented. The portrait of young Matthew is evocative, Wyethesque, but very much Roger whose personal paintings were soulful, rich, and beautifully rendered. Many thanks to Matthew for sharing this deeply personal and heartwarming story and image. Roger’s humanity was indeed his masterpiece. NancyTreves President,Wellesley Society of Artists Bread andButterIssues That was a tasty article on Philly sandwiches (“City of Sandwiches,” March 17). Generally, we’re skeptical about auslanders eating and running through town, but the author’s got some credibility, having grown up 70 miles north of here, and some taste buds, not to mention writing chops. I learned a few things from his reporting, despite this former Bostonian’s having spent 37 years here looking for sandwiches. DanielRubin Philadelphia Great article but he missed THE BEST PASTRAMI SANDWICH ANYWHERE at Hershel’s East Side Deli, in Reading Terminal Market. Lines all day and around in a circle on the weekends! Worth the wait! Makes Katz in NYC taste like it’s for beginners! HughProctor Philadelphia There was one omission worth mentioning. Romano’s restaurant in Essington, Pennsylvania, which is right next to the airport, is “home of the original stromboli.” It is a great sandwich, found lots of places, but you need to go to the original creator of the stromboli. Steve Cooper Lexington I was in Philly for school in the mid to late ’70s and I never recall the use of the word sandwiches. Do they no longer use “hoagies”? Sprtsfreek posted on bostonglobe.com Tony DiNic’s (Reading Terminal Market) also makes a particularly excellent brisket version of their roast park, cheese, and broccoli rabe
CONTACT US Write to [email protected] or The Boston Globe Magazine/ Comments, 1 Exchange Place, Suite 201, Boston, MA 02109- 2132. Comments are subject to editing. sandwich. It’s quite tasty and altogether wonderful! Jerry Brecher NorthAndover Philadelphian here: The author chose terrific spots. I get DiNic’s for lunch every three months and slip into a food coma—well worth it. One great rec: Saad’s Halal in West Philly. Get the Chicken Maroosh Style— it’ll blow your mind. Jesse 15243 posted on bostonglobe.com Life Stories This Perspective by Elizabeth Carr—“As the First IVF Baby in the US, Puzzles on Page 30 B A R N U M H A T S D E S S E R T A Q U I N O M O N E T M E R C U T I O L U N G E C O U N T E R S TAR B A S E M A T H H U S K M E R G E T A B L E S F A T E E S P Y S O M E U S U A L D U A L N Y T D R O P S U R G E C O M M I T T E E A P I E C E D E N T A L P O O R S T R A N D E D A D S B A I T T W O S H M M E A R C A R M E L E V O K E REN O R I D G E P E O P L E P R O B L E M S K E N T I N F O R H O R R I D A S H J P S T R I O C Y A N I D A H I AWA T H A E N V Y V E S S E L A D L I B S B A D G E O F C O O K I E S N E E D A C C R U E D N I T R O E V I L B R I T E R S E M I D G E M I L L E R A L O T A T O P U N E A R N E D M A R G E M A D N E S S S T E P S O N S U T T E R R O Y A L S H O T S E T S S E E D Z E A L O T 3 9 2 1 8 7 4 5 6 1 5 8 2 6 4 397 7 4 6 9 5 3 2 1 8 8 3 1 6 7 5 9 4 2 9 7 4 3 2 1 6 8 5 6 2 5 8 4 9 7 3 1 5 1 9 7 3 2 8 6 4 4 6 7 5 9 8 1 2 3 2 8 3 4 1 6 5 7 9 SUDOKU SOLUTION THE GLOBE PUZZLE SOLUTION Here’s WhatIWant Others Like Me to Know” (March 17)—brought tears to my eyes thinking about all of the IVF babies born to parents who desperately want them. My grandson is one of those babies and our entire family is so thankful to have him in our lives. Libby Jensen Plainville
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8 THE BOSTON GLOBE MAGAZINE “THE HOST ACTUALLY SAT US AT TWO DIFFERENT TABLES.” DINNER WITH CUPPERSPECTIVE A re you at risk for in-flight meltdown—one armrest war away from going viral? No? Are you sure? A study once found that while nearly3in4people believe hell exists, only half of 1 percent think they’re the ones going. And so it goes for passengers gone wild. The vast majority of fliers don’t get up that morning and think to themselves, today I’ll be the person who becomes the national spectacle—cuffed, cursing, and dragged down the aisle by flight attendants. And yet it’s gotta be someone. Why do people snap? Considering the difficulty of life on the ground—where the legroom is ample and no one tries to serve you vegan pretzel braids—maybe the better question is why aren’t more people escorted off flights by air marshals. Here’s how it goes down. A seemingly ratioAre We All One Overhead Bin Battle Away From an In-Flight Meltdown? BY BETH TEITELL
IMAG ES FROM ADOBE STOCK; G LOBE STAFF ILLUST RATION PID, P. 17 INSIDE LOVE LETTERS: SPRING FLING P. 11 COOKING: ITALIAN CLASSICS P. 14 MISS CONDUCT: OVERSHARING ANONYMOUS P. 16
nal passenger boards the plane and all seems normal; the flight attendants’ jerkdar does not go off. But then the doors close and a (seemingly) minor infraction occurs. A baby wails, an adult clips his toenails, the loverboy in the middle seat tries to swap places so he can sit next to his squeeze and won’t take no for an answer. Whatever self control separates us from animals and elected officials evaporates. A viral video star is born. Airborne misbehavior hit a high in 2021, when people started flying again after the first shock of the pandemic. The anger on the ground over COVID mask rules and life in general blew7miles up and simmered into a reduction sauce of rage. The Federal Aviation Administration counted 5,973 reports of unruly behavior that year, compared with 1,161 during the pre-pandemic year of 2019. The good news? Things are getting better, but, alas, only if you compare them with that worst year ever. In the first quarter of 2024 there were already 490 incidents, putting us on pace for 1,960 by year’s end. Keep up the good work, people! Back in 2021, with mayhem in the skies, the FAA got stricter with passengers who assault, threaten, intimidate or interfere with airline crew members. Warnings have turned into legal action. The agency now has a “tool kit” that among other things, includesadigital sign that reads, “Don’t be that person!” But as anyone who has caved to a king-sized Snickers bar at Hudson News knows, the crazy is unleashed the moment you arrive at Logan Airport. And once onboard, the stressors only multiply. You overdose on Everybody Loves Raymond, or catch sight of yoursthe restroom mirror.Arecline is cmitted. The FAA is trying, but at this pthe game, maybe we should accepity—this is who we ARE — and pour strengths. Let’s add a fighting section to tplane. First class, business, fightincoach. Book a seat in fighting, anknow what you’re getting into. Thsmoking sections were in the baclet’s put the thunderdome in the mlikeatheater in the round. Seats be reserved for: 1) People wisheet from previn-flight meltdo(they get prioriboarding, alongthose who’ve bfollowed by relon Facebook, oare toddlers whbroken passengother flights). 2) Social mefluencers who apy to take or deblow if it meaning followers, and who know aboera angles. 3) Improv players secretly hirethe FAA to create incidents that wisfy the bloodlust of the mob — thballistic when the flight attendanthem off from the Sutter Home chnay, say, or refuse to break from aaisle yoga pose. If all else fails, well-behaved pagers should takealesson from thlines themselves and monetize thation. We need to create a “meltdoffset” market so the ruly can gouunruly. It would be win-win. Beth Teitell is a Boston Globe staffer. Send comments to beth.teitell@com. Atthis pointin the game, maybe we should accept reality—this is who we ARE— and play to our strengths.
APRIL 28, 2024 9 self in compoint in pt realplay to the ng, nd you he old ck, but middle, would ith a rap vious owns ity g with een unatives or who ho have gers on edia inare hapeliver a ns gainout camed by will sathey go nt cuts hardonan inassene airhe situdown uge the ff writ@globe. mothersdaycards.org HONOR A WOMAN IN YOUR LIFE WITH A GIFT TO WOMEN IN NEED Each Mothers Day card supports a week of healthy lunches for a guest of Women's Lunch Place. The artwork was created by a guest and the back of the card tells her story! A $25 donation includes one card, mailed to you or the recipient. This Mothers Day...
1 0 THE BOSTON GLOBE MAGAZINE SHARE YOUR EVENT NEWS. Send information on Boston-area happenings at least three weeks in aWEDNESDAY Solar Serenade Witness a musical performance inspired by light during ECLIPTIC at the Museum of Science’s Charles Hayden Planetarium. Starring the Nightingale Vocal Ensemble and members of the Juventas New Music Ensemble, the show will feature Aaron Copland’s“In The Beginning” and original scores by Nightingale composers— brought to life visually through planetarium projectors.7:30 p.m. Tickets $15. nightingalevocalensemble.com THURSDAY Dress to Impress Attend a showcase of fashion created with bicycle inner tubes, VHS tapes, and more during Artwear: The SOS 2024 Fashion Show at Somerville’s Crystal Ballroom. Participating designers include 6-year-old seamstress Ella G., leather artist Stephanie Shields, prop creator Elsa Ramsay, and others at7 p.m. Cocktail hour begins at 6 p.m. Admission is free, drinks available for purchase. somervilleopenstudios.org Upfront TUESDAY TWhodSolve a murder mystery during Clue at Emeboard game and ensuing 1985 film, the theatProfessor Plum, Colonel Mustard, and others Boddy Manor. Showtimes vary. Tickets stYOUR WEEK AHEAD 4/29-5/5
IMAG E F ROM ADOBE STOCK advance to [email protected]. THURSDAY Shape Shifter Learn about designing public and community spaces at Design Redefined: Shaping Shared Spaces at the MIT Museum. Co-hosted by MIT MAD and Innovators for Purpose, event highlights include a panel discussion and an interactive lesson on design principles. Light refreshments are provided after the session. 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. Free with general admission. mitmuseum.mit.edu SATURDAY Rise and Shine Experienceashowcase of community culture and local activism through art and music during the 46th annual Wake Up the Earth Festival in Jamaica Plain. The festival will have local vendors, artists, a dance stage, and more. 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. A parade will start off the festival at 11 a.m. at Curtis Hall. Free. spontaneouscelebrations.org TO SUNDAY dunit rson Colonial Theatre. Based on the popular ricalcomedy follows characters Mrs. Peacock, as they work to crack the case of a murder in tart at $50. emersoncolonialtheatre.com
about how to find wild love. Datand vacations can be good for inshort romances. On a dating app, you can swipperson whose photos make you doesn’t have to be about shared or big life plans. You can find thwho are clear they want passionThe trip thing is even better fWant to know why people oftenmemories about romances theysummer camp—specifically sleecamp? Because they were away freality. Because they got to showbrand-new version of themselveeveryone was on borrowed timeas camp starts, there’sacountdoto the end. (I never went to sleepcamp, but when friends came howere tears—sometimes about grYes, we’ve had two podcast epwhere adults tell stories about thromances. (One former camp coeach other later in life!) There are trips that can re-creexperience. Tours that last for daweeks. Music festivals. My guessyou’re trapped inaspace where a bunch of people your age—andistractions—you’ll feel some mings and find love, even if it’s temJust be safe while you do it. Sometimes it takes some warfore hanging out with someone dictive.” (I don’t love that word. sound healthy. But I know you’vfor a reason.) It’s not always lustsight. Pay attention to who sparkinterest and see what grows. —READERS RESPOND Stop chasing the rush of emotions. Tyou are rejecting are probably your palthough it may notseem that way You have some living to do, and in athisletter isn’t really going to resonathe same way. Find the new season of the Love podcast at loveletters.show. Meredith Goldstein wants your letters! Send your relationship quandaries and questions to lovelettersColumns and responses are edited and reprinted from boston.com/loveletters. SpringFling FORGET SERIOUS—I WANT TO BE BURNED BY DESIRE. LOV E L ETTERS Q.I’m 23 and I am struggling to find someoneIreally like. I’ve only had one long-term relationship with a guy I didn’t like romantically. He was more of a friend. The guys I’ve liked are always unavailable (either taken, forbidden in some way, or don’t ask me out, maybe becauseIseem unapproachable). There are guys who are interested in me sometimes, but they are never the type of personIam looking for in my life right now.Iwant to be burned by desire and have fun, and not talk about anything serious or important. I am always the mature one—the hard worker and overthinker. Now I want to live my life a bit more and date people it feels addictive to be close to. I don’t care if it will lead to a relationship at this point. What would you advise me to do to change the type of guys I interact with, so thatIlike them more? I love your podcast and I feel sooo seen when you share your personal experiences with dating. — Looking for Romance A.I do share my personal stories on the podcast!Idon’t have any that match this letter. (I like my romances calm and comfy.) That said, I do have some thoughts
APRIL 28, 2024 1 1 ting apps ntense, pe on the drool. It interests he people n now. for this. n have big had at epaway from w up as a es. Because e; as soon own clock paway ome, there reat loves.) pisodes heir camp ouple finds eate this ays or s is that if there are nd no other major feelmporary. rm-up befeels “adIt doesn’t ve used it t at first ks some — Meredith Those guys people, initially. ODIEHELPS few years ate with you JSMUS Letters [email protected]. O R D O N ’ T A T A L L . R E L A X . Y O U ’ R E O N L A K E T I M E N O W . V I S T L A K E S R E G I O N . O R G T O P L A N Y O U R G E T A W A Y . FOL LOW US: @NHL AKESREGION selection value service CLOSEDTUESDAYS WWW.SEASONSFOUR.COM 1265 MASSACHUSETTS AVE. LEXINGTON, MA 02420 TEL 781.861.1200 THE OUTDOOR LIVING STORE • DESIGNERSWELCOME Tax Free April! 2 Days Left !!! Shop Now & We Will Pay Your Sales Tax On All Instock Furniture! outdoor furniture • home & garden decor umbrellas • tableware • firepits • sunbrella cushions • statuary pottery • fountains • perennials • trees & shrubs•annuals 2017 2021 2022 2023
1 2 THE BOSTON GLOBE MAGAZINE STYLE WATCH Rough It Up THE DESIGN OF THIS CAMBRIDGE KITCHEN DRAWS ON THE TYPES OF PROJECTS THE ARCHITECT’S PROFESSORS WERE PRACTICING IN THE ’70S. BY MARNI ELYSE KATZ ‘I’mafan of 1970s architecture with an experimental vibe,” Louise Goff, principal of Louise M. Smith Design, says. She’s inspired by the types of projects her architecture professors built during the summer terms — often weekend homes in Vermont. “You saw a lot of circle pulls,” she adds. Such cutouts informed those in the kitchen she designed in this Cambridge townhouse. The clients,acreative couple with two kids, favor a mix of midcentury and Scandinavian design that isabit more rough than refined. “They likeamodern, natural vibe; nothing bling-y,” she says. “Soapstone, tiles from Heath Ceramics, and a connection to the outdoors were easy decisions.” 1 Cabis paoff-bblackon athere2 Whlinesfromimpethe gsens3 Thexporeclalook boarUpfront 1 2 3
binetry by Walter Lane Cabinet Makers ainted Benjamin Moore’s Stonecutter, an black, foratone-on-tone pairing with k soapstone countertops. “We settled dark palette early on, then built out from e,” Goff says. hile the backsplash with crisp, dark grout is quite graphic, the handmade tiles m Heath Ceramics have a natural feel with erfect edges and clay peeking through glaze. “When you’re in the space you e the warmth of it,” the architect says. e shelves are made from plywood with osed edges. “The wood didn’t need to be aimed from an old barn,” she says. “This is more utilitarian.” The white oak floorrds, however, have knotty character. 4 The appliances disappear, as does the painted wood hood. “It’s easier to get into a wood enclosure than a plaster one if you have to deal with mechanicals,” Goff shares. 5 A new window pulls in light and greenery and helped create an asymmetric but balanced composition. It also offered an obvious end point for the backsplash. “Sometimes I tile to the ceiling, but this would’ve been too busy,” Goff explains. 6 A bench for lounging and reading was a must-have as the kitchen, which opens to the side garden, is a primary gathering spot. Cedar & Moss sconces and storage add function while throw pillows, including one from Abroad Modern in Cambridge, provide color, texture, and comfort. PHO T O G R APH B Y S ABRINA C O L E Q U INN 4 5 6
ON THE BLOCK Price Point: $750,000 HERE’S WHAT THREE-QUARTERS OF A MILLION DOLLARS CAN BUY AROUND BOSTON. $749,000 71 SHERMAN STREET / CANTON SQUARE FEET 1,742 LOT SIZE 0.48 acre BEDROOMS 4 BATHS 1 full1half LAST SOLD FOR $556,800 in 2018 PROS This expanded 1951 Colonial with hardwood floors is perched on a hill less than a mile from the commuter rail station in Canton center. Enter by way of the farmer’s porch, and find a powder room and an office to the right. The open living and dining room features a fireplace flanked by built-in shelves; a glass door opens to a deck and spacious yard ringed with perennials. The updated kitchen sports granite counters and a Viking range, plus sliders to the patio and driveway; it’s open to a playroom with custom closets. Upstairs, four bedrooms with beaded wood wainscoting sharearemodeled bath with builtin linen cabinet. There’s laundry and a one-car garage in the basement. CONS Steep driveway; an offer has been accepted. JEAN COHEN, ENGEL&VÖLKERS, 781-367-7191, [email protected] $749,900 109 ELLINGTON STREET #1 / DORCHESTER SQUARE FEET 1,848 CONDO FEE $167amonth BEDROOMS 4 BATHS 3 LAST SOLD FOR First time on the market PROS This two-level unitcomprises the lower floors of a newly built, modern three-decker two blocks from the commuter rail and Franklin Park. From the front porch (with ADA-accessible lift), enter an open living area with gas fireplace, recessed lights, and red oak floors. The kitchen has stainless appliances, quartzcounters, and a long breakfast peninsula. Past a nearby laundry closet, two bedrooms share a bath with step-in shower, while the primary has a private bath with carrara marble double vanity. The lower level holds a family room plus a guest suite with walk-in closet and private bath with striking black herringbone tile. One deeded parking space is included. CONS No yard, but there isacommunity garden a few doors down. THERESA DAVID, GIBSON SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY, CA 781-910-9406, [email protected] — JON GOREY N TO N PHOTO G RAPHS BY JEFF THIEBAUT H
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1 4 THE BOSTON GLOBE MAGAZINE IN THE KITCHEN WITH CHRISTOPHER KIMBALL AND THE COOKS AT MILK STREET Upfront Roman Holiday THREE CLASSIC DISHES THAT OFFER A TOUR OF ITALY. BY CHRISTOPHER KIMBALL F rom the bustling streets of Rome to the canals of Venice to the sun-drenched coasts of Sicily and Calabria, these dishes bring the flavors of Italy to your kitchen. For our spaghetti carbonara, we learned to lighten up the Roman classic by using whisked egg yolks to create an airy foam that melds with pecorino Romano cheese to create a creamy sauce. Next, our quick-yet-elegant skillet dish captures the essence of the Veneto region with succulent shrimp and a garlicky tomato sauce, finished with a sprinkling of toasted bread crumbs. Finally, we dress chicken in bright Mediterranean flavors with an herby, citrusy sauce made from lemons caramelized on the grill. Roman Spaghetti Carbonara MAKES 4 SERVINGS This brighter take on carbonara came from Pipero Roma in Rome, where the chef whisked the egg yolks until cooked and slightly foamy, creating a sauce that is much lighter in texture than most carbonara recipes. Mixing the yolks with water and cornstarch ensures the cheese won’t clump up when tossed with the pasta. Bacon cannot be substituted for the pancetta. The smokiness of the bacon will overwhelm the cleaner flavors of the egg-based sauce. 3 ounces thinlychopped 6 large egg yolk2 teaspoons co6 ounces pecoricheese, finelyplus more to s12 ounces spaghKosher salt and grpepper In a 10-inch skmedium heat, cetta, stirring, about 5 minutslotted spoon, a paper towel-lMeasure out antablespoons offat; if needed,with olive oil. Setta and fat asiIn a large p4 quarts waterMeanwhile, insaucepan, whicups water, theand the cornstsmooth. Add tstir until evenlSet the pan ovlow heat and cing constantly,Globe readers get 12 weeks of Milk Street print magazine plus complete digitRoman SpaghCarbonara
PHOTOG RAPHS: SHRIMP AND SPAGHETTI BY CO NNIE MILLER O F C B CREATIVES ; CHICKEN BY BRIAN SAMUELS y sliced pancetta, ks rnstarch ino Romano y grated (3 cups), serve hetti round black killet set over cook the panuntil crisp, tes. Using a transfer to lined plate. nd reserve 3 f the rendered supplement Set the pancide. pot, bring r to a boil. n a large isk 1Œ e egg yolks, tarch until the cheese and ly moistened. ver mediumcook, whisky, until the mixture comes to a gentle simmer and is airy and thickened, 5 to7minutes; use a silicone spatula to occasionally get into the corners of the pan. Off heat, whisk in the reserved pancetta fat. Remove from the heat and set aside. Stir the pasta and 1 tablespoon salt into the boiling water and cook until al dente. Reserve about ½ cup of the cooking water, then drain the pasta very well. Return the pasta to the pot and let cool for about 1 minute. Pour the pecorino-egg mixture over the pasta and toss with tongs until well combined, then toss in pepper. Let stand, tossing the pasta two or three times, until most of the liquid has been absorbed, about 3 minutes. Crumble in the pancetta, then toss again. The pasta should be creamy but not loose. If needed, toss in up to2tablespoons reserved pasta water to adjust the consistency. Transfer to a warmed serving bowl and serve, passing more pecorino and pepper on the side. Venetian-Style Shrimp in Tomato-White Wine Sauce MAKES 4 SERVINGS From the coast of Veneto, Italy, gamberi alla busara is a dish of whole shell-on prawns in a garlicky tomato sauce spiked with white wine. For this weeknight version, we use shelled shrimp, but we prefer them jumbo-size (21 to 25 shrimp per pound) so the dish has heft and substance. Browning shrimp on both sides can cause them to become rubbery and overdone in the finished dish. Instead, we sear only one side to develop flavor from caramelization, not to fully cook the shrimp. They will finish cooking in the sauce at the end. Some recipes for gamberi alla busara include tal access for just $1. Go to 177milkstreet.com/globe. hetti
bread crumbs that thicken the sauce. We, however, prefer to toast some panko bread crumbs and sprinkle them on top to add crispiness and texture. Serve with warm crusty bread for dipping into the sauce. 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided ½ cup panko bread crumbs 8 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, divided Kosher salt and ground black pepper 1½ pounds jumbo tail-on (21-25 per pound) shrimp, peeled and deveined, patted dry 6 medium garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 medium shallot, finely chopped ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes ½ cup dry white wine 28- ounce can whole peeled tomatoes, crushed by hand In a 12-inch nonstick skillet set over medium-high heat, heat 2 tablespoons of oil until it shimmers. Add the panko and cook, stirring often, until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in 2 tablespoons of parsley and æ teaspoon each salt and black pepper; set aside. In the same skillet set over medium-high heat, warm 1 tablespoon of the oil until it shimmers. Add half the shrimp in an even layer and cook without disturbing until golden brown on the bottoms,1to 2 minutes; transfer to a large plate. Repeat with another 1 tablespoon oil and the remaining shrimp; set the shrimp aside. In the same skillet set over medium-high, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil until it shimmers. Add the garlic, shallot, and pepper flakes, then cook, stirring constantly, until the garlic is light golden brown, about 30 seconds. Add the wine and cook, stirring, until the liquid has almost evaporated, 30 to 60 seconds. Add the tomatoes with juices and æ teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is slightly thickened, 6 to7minutes. Add the shrimp and accumulated juices to the pan, along with the remaining 6 tablespoons parsley. Cook, stirring, until the shrimp are opaque throughout,1to2minutes. Transfer to a serving dish and sprinkle with the toasted bread crumbs. Grilled Chicken Salmoriglio MAKES 4 SERVINGS Extra virgin olive oil, lemon, garlic, and herbs constitute salmoriglio,asauce/marinade from southern Italy (specifically, Calabria and Sicily). Grilling the lemons before juicing them mellows their sharpnesadding a subtlto the sauce. Omade with gramarinade; we juice to finish tbefore servingIf you opt tture of bone-inbreasts and thisticks (or leg qkeep in mind tmeat is done aand the dark mdegrees, so thefinish ahead ofUse tongs ra fork to movepieces on the gcreates holes thjuices to escapdrier meat. 2 lemons ½ cup extra virgin2 mediumgarlicgrated 1 teaspoon driedcrumbled Kosher salt and gro3 pounds bone-parts,trimmed¼ cup chopped fparsley Grate2teaspothe lemons, thcrosswise and a small bowl, sGrilled ChickeSalmoriglio
APRIL 28, 2024 1 5 the zest, oil, garlic, oregano, 1æ teaspoons salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper. Transfer æ cup of the mixture to a large bowl, add the chicken, and turn to coat. Marinate at room temperature while preparing the grill. Prepareacharcoal or gas grill for indirect cooking. Foracharcoal grill, ignite a large chimney of coals, let burn until lightly ashed over, then distribute the coals evenly over one side of the grill bed and open the bottom grill vents. Heat the grill, covered, for 5 minutes, then clean and oil the cooking grate. Foragas grill, turn all burners to high and heat, covered, for 15 minutes, then clean and oil the cooking grate; leave the primary burner on high and turn the remaining burner(s) to low. Place the chicken skin side up on the cooler side of the grill. Cover and cook for 15 minutes. Using tongs, reposition the chicken so that the pieces farthest from the fire are now closest; keep the chicken skin side up. Re-cover and continue to cook until the thickest part of the breast, if using, reaches 160 degrees or the thickest parts of the thighs and drumsticks, if using, reach 175 degrees, another 5 to 10 minutes. Using tongs, flip the chicken skin side down onto the hot side of the grill. Cook until the skin is lightly browned and crisp, 1 to2minutes, moving the chicken as needed to avoid flare-ups. Transfer the chicken skin side up to a platter and let rest for about 5 minutes. While the chicken rests, grill the lemon halves cut side down on the hot side of the grate until grillmarked, 2 to3minutes. Squeeze 2½ tablespoons juice from 1 or2of the grilled lemon halves, then stir the juice along with the parsley into the reserved garlic-lemon oil to make the salmoriglio. Serve the sauce and the remaining grilled lemon halves with the chicken. Christopher Kimball is the founder of Milk Street, home to a magazine, school, and radio and television shows. Send comments to [email protected]. ss and acidity, e sweetness Our version is ated zest in the then add the the sauce just . to use a mixn chicken ighs or drumquarters), that the white at 160 degrees meat at 175 e breasts may f the legs. rather than e the chicken grill. A fork hat allow pe, resulting in n olive oil c cloves,finely d oregano, ound black pepper in, skin-on chicken d freshflat-leaf oons zest from hen halve them set aside. In stir together en
1 6 THE BOSTON GLOBE MAGAZINE I’ve had sevhave “oversinformationto the conveeven about was when sohis friend’s pthese men juDo they lackmy trust toothat they wodetails of ouhaven’t worfor otherreawhat to do fYou’re talkidifferent veKen!) so thanswer. Evemotives anlonely, anotcalibrated, testing bouUnified Broeverything.The onlyfrom the cois you, whicspecifics it’saboutafrieme as oversyour date wfinancial, oNeedWHAT TO OVERSHAMISS COUpfrTROUBLE WI
veral first dates with men who shared” personal details. This n is never particularly relevant ersation and sometimes it’s not them (the most recent example omebody shared with me about parent’s serious illness).Do ust need somebody to talk to? k a filter? Are they trying to gain o quickly? It makes me think ould, in the future, broadcast ur personal life together. Things rked out with any of these men asons, but I need advice about for “next time.” Anonymous / Boston ing about different men, not ersions of the same man (hi here isn’t going to be a single ery individual has different d habits. One guy might be ther might be socially una third might be deliberately undaries. There’s no Grand o Theory that accounts for . y single answer would come ommon denominator, which ch.. . maybe? Without s hard to say. The anecdote end’s parent doesn’t strike sharing, for example, unless went into gory medical (or or family-scandalous) details. You’re not likely to meet these people any time soon, and parents and illnesses are all very ordinary things, not shameful secrets. What’s more concerning is the relevance aspect. People have different privacy settings, but nobody likes awkward fact-dumping or having their conversation derailed. I’d pay more attention to that dynamic, if I were you. It’s difficult! People are a lot more socially adrift than we were before the pandemic. Everyone’s gone a little feral and awkwardness abounds. And online dating, which I assume is what you’re doing, imposes pressure regardless of how chill the individual daters might be. You don’t want to speedrun a relationship, but you also don’t want to waste the other person’s time (or your own). And meeting someone on apps means that you haven’t seen how they act in their native habitat, as it were, which makes it harder to interpret their behavior. If you’d socialized or worked on a projectabit with Bachelor Number One, you’d already have some sense of how he treats people and information. Which doesn’t mean don’t use the apps! There are still plenty of success stories. But be aware of the inherent difficulties—which the person you’re dating is also facing, so maybe acknowledge and discuss that openly. And don’t make assumptions about how loose-lipped an oversharer might be about you. I have met a lot of people who are oversharers about themselves but keep other people’s personal info in a locked vault. I’ve also met people who keep their own stories locked down and broadcast other people’s like CNN. Miss Conduct is Robin Abrahams, a writer with a PhD in psychology. d to Know DO WHEN PEOPLE ARE ON FIRST DATES. NDUCT ront TH TRAVEL COMPANIONS? Miss Conduct can help! Write [email protected].
7 P.M. SUNSET CANTINA, BOSTON SEEKINGCOMPANIONSHIP Nate I had been feeling burnt out on dating apps soIwanted to give something else a try. Jim Some friends had done Cupid,so I thought it was my turn. Nate I showered, picked out my outfit, and got in my car to drive over. Jim As always before eating anywhere, I researched the menu. Nate I wasscanning the room when I saw a guy on the other side. We made eye contact and I mouthed “Jim?” He said yes. Jim The host actually sat us at two different tables. After a minute or so, he walked over to join me. Nate He was handsome and well put together. He was wearing a cute floral shirt. Jim My first thought was how tall he was. I’m about 6-foot-1 and he is more or lessthe same height. PAWS TOGETHER Nate He works in social work, which I thought was cool. We chatted about our favorite artists, where we like to travel, and concertsthat we have upcoming. Jim Nate is a transplant from the West Coast. Nate has a dream of opening his own bar and is part of an a cappella singing group! I could tell right away he wasasociable guy. Nate We split the chips and queso as an app and I ordered a burrito bowl. The food and drink was good. Jim We ordered margaritas, passion fruit for me and a regular for him. Nate I haveacat and she has had a bad experience with dogs. So that was a little warning sign, but nothing egregious. Jim We both have pets, I and cat, and he has a catNate We found out quickboth play in queersportsHowever, he happened tothe one league that I havtried—which isfunny sinqueersportsleaguesin Ba very small world. He usedodgeball and kickball, bdoes bowling. And I currekickball, dodgeball, footbsoftball. Jim We are in different leahad never crossed paths Nate I’m a pretty bubbly it doesn’t take much for mcomfortable talking to soIt felt like I was getting tonew friend. Jim I don’t think there waromantic chemistry but Iwe clicked enough forapfriendship. PURRFECTPALS Nate By the time I was mthrough my last drink, werunning out of things to cJim We both expressed thready to head home. We numbers and hugged. SECONDDATE? Nate I don’t think so. I thifriendly ifIsaw him out abut I just didn’t feel too mconnection. Jim I would be interestedout in the future as frienda concert orsomething. GRADINGTHEDATE Nate/BJim/B+ — Compiled by MeDINNER WITH CUPID NATEHARMS 30/ data scientist ONADESERT ISLANDHE’D BRING His emotional supportwater bottle,Spotify, his cat WHATMAKES HIMACATCH He’s a genuine and caring person— and phenomenal kisser GO ON A BLIND DATE. WE’LL PICK UP THE TAB. Fill out an application at bostonglobe.com/cupid. Follow us on Twitter or Instagram @dinnerwithcuJIMYELINEK 36/mental health professional FIRSTTHING PEOPLENOTICE INHISHOME Hisdogandcat running togreet them LASTTHINGHE READ The new Britney Spears autobiography Like Cats and Dogs WILL THESE TWO PET OWNERS FIND THEIR PERSON?
APRIL 28, 2024 1 7 haveadog t. kly that we leagues. o be in ve never ce the Boston are ed to play but now only ently play ball, and agues,so before. person,so me to feel omeone new. o know a as any think possible mostly e were chat about. hat we were exchanged nk I’d be and about, much of a in hanging ds, catching Melissa Schorr upid. In Season 9 of Love Letters, we paytribute to the friends, relatives, therapists, and others who play a key role in relationships. Listen now at loveletters.show or whereveryou get your podcasts. A PODCAST FROM
1 8 THE BOSTON GLOBE MAGAZINE Summer tra vel
Sandy Neck Beach, West Barnstable PHOTOG RAPHBYJOHNT LUMACKI/G LOBESTAFF
APRIL 28, 2024 1 9 HAVE THE PERFECT CAPE COD DAY When it comes to the classic summer vacation, Cape Cod has few rivals. From old standbys to new surprises, here are 30 ways to eat, play, and make memories on the Cape.
2 0 THE BOSTON GLOBE MAGAZINE Summer tra vel CAPE COD BASEBALL LEAGUE You don’t have to go to an Iowa cornfield to see baseball at its purest. Some 350 active Major Leaguers got their start playing in the Cape League, one of the country’s premier collegiate summer leagues. It’s also the last to use wooden bats, just like the pros. Games are so intimate that you hear every smack of the ball in the glove. Between mid-June and mid-August, each of the 10 teams, representing towns from Wareham to Orleans, plays 44 games, followed by a post-season tourney. Admission is by donation. Various locations, capecodbaseball.org – Patricia Harris and David Lyon SHINING SEA BIKEWAY, FALMOUTH South of the Bourne Bridge, find this paved 10.7- mile rail trail from North Falmouth to Woods Hole. Hop on your bike and makeastop for candy at Uncle Bill’s Country Store. Once you and your crew are satisfactorily sugared up, set off for sweeping views of harbors, salt marshes, cranberry bogs, and the Vineyard Sound. Refuel with fried seafood, ice cream, or a pint in Woods Hole before heading back, bone-tired but tear-free. Parking lot at County Road and Route 151. falmouthma.gov/1362/The-Shining-Sea-Bikeway; Uncle Bill’s Country Store, 412 North Falmouth Highway, North Falmouth, 508-564-4355 – Julie Suratt PIRATE’S COVE, SOUTH YARMOUTH This iconic mini-golf franchise towers over Route 28, with 36 holes spread overamini-mountain of caverns, pirate ships, mannequins, twisting paths, and water hazards. There’s also the appropriate soundtrack: Yo-ho,me. On cloudy days and nexpect to wait on every hrience. (Or head down Rochoice of themed mini-goAdventure Golf and SporLagoon, or Putters Paradchildren $12.50; 3 and unStreet, 508-394-6200, pirwebsite for schedule – SuPB BOULANGERIE BISTCape Cod may be known sleep on this award-winntries, baked goods, and mjust off Route 6 on the Oucolorful PB Boulangerie Bbakery and restaurant thtakes on baguettes, eclairquiche, croque monsieur,croissants, including a suversion. The bakery is opfor a brief break in Februfrom late spring to the faRoad, 508-349-1600, pbb– Marc Hurwitz THE BREWSTER STOREThis circa 1866 general sster’s post office. Now it’sthe past. Think playthingny candy, and an actual wShelves are stocked with venirs, books, Marshmallit—and that’s just the firsstaircase and discover cra
PHOTOG RAPHS: CAP E LEAG UE BY MICHAEL DWYER/ASSO CIATED PRESS; CLAMBAKE BY DAVID LYON; ICE CREAM CO N E F ROM ADOBE STOCK yo-ho, a pirate’s life for nice summer evenings, hole—all part of the expeoute 28 and have your olf courses: Skull Island rts World, Wild Animal dise.) Adults from $13.50, nder, free. 728 Main ratescove.net; check usan Moeller TRO, WELLFLEET for its seafood, but don’t ning spot for French pasmore. Set in the woods uter Cape, the bright, Bistro is a combination hat features incredible rs, tarts, madeleines, r, and sweet and savory ublime ham and cheese pen year-round (except uary); the bistro is open all. 15 LeCount Hollow boulangeriebistro.com E, BREWSTER tore once housed Brewsacharming portal to gs of yore, jars of penworking nickelodeon. kitchen utensils, soulow Fluff, you name st floor. Go up the creaky afting items, a miniature model of the general store, handmade doll clothes, and jigsaw puzzles—so many jigsaw puzzles! After you leave, don’t forget The Brewster Scoop is right next door. 1935 Main Street, 508- 896-3744, brewsterstore.com – Diane Bair and Pamela Wright NICKERSON STATE PARK, BREWSTER Lovers of the outdoors will find plenty to do at this popular park, covering more than 1,900 acres of forests and fields, dotted with eight freshwater kettle ponds. If it’s a warm day, take a hike on the Cliff Pond Trail, an easy 3-mile loop around the largest pond in the park, with access to swimming beaches along the way—it’s a palate cleanser from all that ocean exposure. There are more than 8 miles of winding, hilly biking paths, some connecting to the Cape Cod Rail Trail. There’s also boating (rentals available), fishing, and staff-led nature programs. Want to extend your stay? Book a site at one of the eight camping areas within the park. 3488 Main Street, 508- 896-3491, mass.gov/locations/nickerson-statepark – Diane Bair and Pamela Wright DIG YOUR OWN CLAMS, HARWICH No clams taste as sweet as those you dig yourself. Harwich makes it easy with a $30 per day shellfishing permit available from the harbor master’s office, where you can also purchase a shellfish gauge to measure your catch and get advice on where to dig. You’ll need your own clam rake and a 10-quart bucket or mesh bag. Bring a charcoal or gas grill, a steamer pot, potatoes, and corn to set up a DIY clambake on some nearby Chatham beaches, where grills are allowed (secluded Jackknife Cove is a local favorite). Harbor master’s office, 715 Main Street, 508-430-7532, harwichma.gov/natural-resources – Patricia Harris and David Lyon 8-
HERITAGE MUSEUMS & GARDENS, SANDWICH Since opening in the late 1960s, Heritage Museums & Gardens near Sandwich Village has been a popular place for nature lovers. And with its lush gardens and nature trails, it’s easy to see why. The highlight is its Hydrangea Festival, which takes place in early to mid-July and celebrates a plant that brings vibrant colors to the Cape each year. Tickets for adults $22, youth $12; children under 2 and members free. 67 Grove Street, 508- 888-3300, heritagemuseumsandgardens.org – Marc Hurwitz KAYAKING NAUSET MARSH, EASTHAM Watch for egrets and herons feeding in the shallows and osprey hovering overhead as you paddle through a maze of tidal channels and creeks. This nutrient-rich salt marsh, with small grassy islands and picturesque coves, is protected from the Atlantic Ocean byalarge outer sandbar. The water is clear enough to see scurrying fiddler crabs and pools of periwinkles below. Keep your eyes peeled; it’s not uncommon to see seals, too. Great Marsh Kayak Tours ($75 for adults) offers three-hour guided paddliLanding, 508-470-4971, gcom – Diane Bair and PaGREEN BRIAR NATURE KITCHEN, SANDWICH A jar of sticky fruit jam isvenir, and you can maketoric 1903 kitchen. The cconverted from kerosene1930s, but little has chana thoroughly old-fashionevary with fruits of the sealeave with four to six jarsThe jam-making workshoadult with a child age6omembers, $85 for non-mRoad, 508-888-6870, thor–Patricia Harris and DavTHE BOATSLIP, PROVINCAsk the Boatslip’s summethis landmark bar and thjourney to the end of the Getting ice cream after a beach day isatreasurthe Cape experience. And while Centerville’s FoCream went on the market in February,the gothe 90-year-old landmark remains open.(The ers hope whoever buys the property will keep tchurning.) On the Upper Cape, with kids(and canines)on the lawn, a visit to Twin Acres Ice Cream Sin Sandwich (21 Route 6A, 508-888-0566, twicecreamshoppe.com)feels like an ice cream soIt offers 70-plus flavors— and pup cups. For anpunch of chocolate, head to Polar Cave Ice Crlour in Mashpee (22 Falmouth Road, 508-477-cave.com), where the “Death by Chocolate”is apremium chocolate ice cream swirled with fudgchocolate chips. On the Mid Cape, Cape Cod Creamery’s hocream isalongtime favorite, incorporating ingras French cocoa, Madagascar vanilla, and ColomPro tip for newbies: Try the six-mini-scoop samyear-round in Hyannis, 645 Iyannough Road, 503600; Dennis and South Yarmouth outlets opeICECHERITAGE MUSEUMS & GAR nce opening in t ums & Getting ice cr the Cape exp Cream went on the 90-year-old ers hope whoev churning.) On the Upper C on the lawn, a visit in Sandwich (21 Ro cecreamshoppe.com) It offers 70-plus flavor punch of chocolate, he lour in Mashpee (22 Fa cave.com),where the “D premium chocolate ice cr chocolate chips. On the Mid Cape, Cape cream is a longtime favorite as French cocoa, Madagasca Pro tip for newbies: Try the s year-round in Hyannis, 645 Iya 3600; Dennis and South Yarmo CAN’T-MI
APRIL 28, 2024 2 1 out a stop at this beloved gay bar. From June 20, and on selected dates before, the Boatslip hosts daily tea dances—parties from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. on the open deck. While in the area, find the Provincetown Jetty and walk out to the end of the world—or at least the Cape. 161 Commercial Street, 508-487-1669, theboatslip.com – Michael Colbert THE LANES BOWL & BISTRO, MASHPEE Kids can handle only so much beach time. Plus, rain happens. Coming to the rescue is The Lanes, a 10-lane, tenpin bowling alley and eatery at Mashpee Commons. Set in an old Shaw’s supermarket, the colorful, comfortable space was created with mostly salvaged materials. Bookalane in advance (up to six people per lane, $30 to $40 per hour depending on time) and bowl your hearts out, or let the kids bowl as you snack on, say, a pulled pork sandwich on a pretzel bun, paired with a Beach Blonde ale from Cape Cod Beer. On good weather days, sit outdoors and play bocce. 9 Greene Street, 774-228-2291, lanesbowlandbistro. com – Diane Bair and Pamela Wright ing tours. Hemenway greatmarshkayaktours. amela Wright CENTER & JAM s a classic Cape Cod sou your own at this hiscast-iron burners were to propane back in the nged since, making this ed experience. Flavors ason, and participants s of their own making. ops (for one adult or one or older) cost $75 for members. 6 Discovery Hill rntonburgess.org vid Lyon CETOWN ertime denizens about hey’ll wax poetic. No Cape is complete withred part of our Seas Ice ood newsis current ownthe ice cream twirling Shoppe inacresiocial of yore. in-your-face ream Par7-5553, polara triumph of ge and dark omemade ice redientssuch mbian coffee. mpler.(Open 508-568- en seasonally. Find info for all at capecodcreamery.com.) “If it’s ice cream we make it,” is the slogan at Ice Cream Cafe in Orleans(5 South Orleans Road, 508-240-0003, icecreamcafe.com 508-240-0003, icecreamcafe.com) on the Lower Cape. The made-to-order ice cream sandwiches— homemade ice cream stuffed between chubby cookiesfrom Cottage Street Bakery—would make the Good Humor man weep. At Lewis Brothers Ice Cream in Provincetown (310 Commercial Street, 508-487-0977, lewisbrothersicecream.com), favorites include Crystallized Ginger, Lavender Sea Salt, and Beach Plum. Some skew boozier, like Mudslide Chip and Belle de Brillet, all made on site. Look for their solar-powered ice cream truck at Truro Beach. – Diane Bair and Pamela Wright CREAM! stop at this beloved gay bar. From June 20, ecodcreamery.com.) make it,” is the slogan at Ice Cream outh Orleans Road, 508-240-0003, 08-240-0003, icecreamcafe.com) on made-to-order ice cream sandice cream stuffed between Cottage Street Bake Good Humor man weep. ce Cream in Provmercial Street, sbrotherrites inger, nd kew Chip their eam ISS
2 2 THE BOSTON GLOBE MAGAZINE Summer tra vel No trip to the Cape would be complete without a stop at a seafood shack— and options abound, though be sure to check online for opening times. Along the Cape Cod Canal in Sandwich, Seafood Sam’s (6 Coast Guard Road, 508-888-4629, seafoodsams.com/sandwich)is often the firststop for vacationers,who find heaping seafood platters and fried lobster. There isalocation in Falmouth as well. Near the Bourne Bridge,the Lobster Trap Restaurant (290 Shore Road, 508-759-7600, lobstertrap.net) has served up fresh seafood for more than 50 years.Jim’s Clam Shack in Falmouth (227 Clinton Avenue, 508-540- 7758, facebook.com/jimsclamshack) offers views of Falmouth Harbor and beyond from its picnic tables. On the Mid Cape, Spanky’s Clam Shack in Hyannis(138 Ocean Street, 508-771-2770, spankysclamshack.com)is a harborside spot with fried seafood and raw bar itemsincluding oysters. On the Lower Cape,JT’s Seafood Restaurant in Brewster(2689 Main Street, 508-896-3355, jt-seafood.com) is known for its clam chowder and ice GET YOUR SEAFOFIX omplete ack—and re to check ong the Cape afood Sam’s -888-4629, wich)is often ners,who find nd fried lobh as cream. Part restaurant and part market, Mac’s Chatham Fish & Lobster(1291 Main Street, 508-945-1173, macsseafood. com)is a local fave with one of the Cape’s best lobster rolls. On the Outer Cape, Arnold’s Lobster & Clam Bar in Eastham (3580 US Route 6, 508-255-2575, arnoldsrestaurant.com) isfamousfor its choice of chilled or warm lobster rolls. PJ’s Family Restaurant (2616 US Route 6, Wellfleet, 508-349- 2126, pjscapecod.com; opens May 16)includes Portuguese options(kale soup, linguica rolls) along with clam chowder and lobster dinners. – Marc Hurwitz
PHOTOG RAPHS: LO BSTER RO L L BY AMY VO LL/MAC ’S SEAFOOD; CLAMS BY MIKE DISKIN OOD Mussels from Lobster Trap Lobster Roll from Mac’s Chatham
PAWÂW BY ESSDRAS M SUAR EZ /G LOBE STAFF ing Cape Cod Bay and theup sandy hills is hard woOpen year-round; parkinmorial Day to Labor Day.508-362-8300, townofbarpark/ – Diane Bair and PSTARGAZING, OUTER CAIt’s easy for city dwellers tion to forget how spectatruly is. Not so on the Ousome of the darkest skiesland. Prime time for stargseids, the year’s best metefrom mid-July to late Aug11-12). Head to the MarcWellfleet, a favorite of amtake in the Milky Way witnous streaks. Or simply fto spread a blanket, and tCape Cod National Seashing lots close at midnightneed to find another spotthen. – Spencer Buell PROVINCETOWN GALLEProvincetown’s weekend every Friday evening withStroll. Starting in late Maleries along a mile-and-a-cial and Bradford streets wide. Many plan exhibitithese hours, so you migh103RD ANNUAL MASHPEE WAMPANOAG PAWÂW, MASHPEE Arrive early to get a good viewing spot for the daily noontime Grand Entry parade of dancers in traditional regalia. It’s one of the highlights of the Mashpee Wampanoag Pawâw, an annual celebration of the culture and traditions of the People of the First Light. From July 5-7, the powwow grounds come alive with music and dance, skills competitions, crafts, and feasting— including a traditional clambake on Sunday. 483 Great Neck Road South, mashpeewampanoagtribe-nsn.gov/ powwow-info – Patricia Harris and David Lyon THE ADVENTURE PARK AT HERITAGE MUSEUMS & GARDENS, SANDWICH Climb, zipline, and traverse rope bridges at this aerial adventure park, which opened this spring. The park has five color-coded courses—requiring different levels of agility, strength, and courage—that make their way between 60 tree platforms. Yellow courses, for example, are for beginners; double-blacks are recommended for age 14 and older. Safety gear is provided. Although it’s under the auspices of the Heritage Museums&Gardens, the park is operated by Outdoor Venture Group and admission is separate from the gardens. Reservations are a good idea because this is the busy Cape, after all. 67 Grove Street, 508-866- 0199, myadventurepark.–Susan Moeller SANDY NECK BEACH PARK, WEST BARNSTABLE The Cape Cod National Seashore gets all the love, with good reason, but there’s a closer-to-Boston barrier beach that’s wonderful, and often overlooked: Sandy Neck Beach Park, a 4,700-acre stretch of beach, dunes, maritime forests, and marshes. The beach is rocky—we’re not gonna lie—but Sandy Neck’s true glory lies slightly inland, where foot trails wind into the dunes, link
APRIL 28, 2024 2 3 e Great Marsh. Hiking ork, but oh, those views! ng fee charged from Me. 425 Sandy Neck Road, rnstable.us/sandyneckPamela Wright PE awash in light polluacular a star-laden night uter Cape, which boasts s in Southern New Enggazing is during the Pereor shower, which runs gust (peaking August coni Beach parking lot in mateur astronomers, to th all the shower’s lumifind a spot on the sand turn your eyes skyward. hore beaches and parkt, so true night owls will t away from lights after ERY STROLL social scene launches h what is known as The ay, about two dozen gal-half stretch of Commerfling their doors open on openings during ht rub elbows with excited artists over a cheese board. Several nonprofits hold events and open houses, including the Provincetown Art Association and Museum, which offers free admission after 5 p.m. on Fridays. provincetownartgalleryassociation.org/gallery-stroll; Provincetown Art Association and Museum, 460 Commercial Street, 508-487-1750, paam.org – Patricia Harris and David Lyon JOHN F. KENNEDY HYANNIS MUSEUM, HYANNIS This Main Street museum captures the spirit of the Kennedy family’s long association with the Cape through photos, videos, and artifacts including one of President Kennedy’s famous rocking chairs. This summer, there are special
2 4 THE BOSTON GLOBE MAGAZINE Summer tra vel DOCKSIDE DINING AT BBOATHOUSE, HYANNIS Why settle for enjoying thseafood in view of the waatop the waters from whethe draw of dockside eateBoathouse in Hyannis Haboaters to pull in, just steneed for a yacht or luxurypontoon will do just fine.the captain’s chair, and oMarys—the house speciabar. Or, simply grab yourrolls to go, and ferry them177 Pleasant Street, 508-cod.com – Spencer Buell HARBOR LOUNGE, PROVRunning alongside Provinof the businesses on bustexhibits including one on John F. Kennedy Jr. and another on Robert F. Kennedy’s fight for civil rights. Kids (and adults) can test their skills with the museum’s scavenger hunt. Also this season: the museum will offer Kennedy Legacy Trail walking tours through Hyannis. 397 Main Street, 508-790-3077, jfkhyannismuseum.org–Susan Moeller HIGHLAND LIGHT, TRURO The Cape’s first lighthouse, also known as Cape Cod Light, was originally commissioned by George Washington in 1797. The current tower was built in 1857 and moved back from an eroding cliff in 1996. At 130 feet above sea level, it is the highest of the Cape and Islands’ 14 lighthouses. Guided tours take visitors up the steep 69 steps to the tower where an LED beacon warns ships of the Outer Cape’s treacherous coastline. The dramatic 360-degree views look over the open Atlantic, miles of rolling moors, and the Highland Links golf course. Tours (adults $8; discounts for students, seniors, and military) are kid-friendly but there is a strict 48-inch height minimum. 27 Highland Light Road, 508-404- 9117, highlandlighthouse.org–Susan Moeller CAPE COD CANAL, UPPER CAPE One of the Cape’s most enticing treasures—the canal—barely gets a glance from most visitors barreling over the bridges. But the twin 7-mile ribbons of asphalt bordering the shimmering waterway are breathtakingly scenic spots to get your steps in, then picnic as yachts, freighters, and the occasional Tall Ship glide by. You’ll sometimes spot a seal, a dolphin, or even a wayward whale. Find parking at several recreation areas along the canal, as well as amenities ranging from grills to camping areas. Worthastop: the Cape Cod Canal Visitor Center, a free museum in Sandwich at the Cape Cod Bay end of the canal. Visitor Center: 60 Ed Moffitt Drive, 508-833-9678, nae.usace.army.mil/ missions/recreation/cape-cod-canal/ – William J. Kole
PHOTOG RAPHS: T RAIL BY MADELINE BILIS; LIGHTHOUS E BY JO HN TLUM ACKI/G LOBE STAFF; B OOKSTORE BY M EGHAN BOUSQ UE T BAXTER’S he Cape’s abundant fresh aves, when you can float ence it came? Such is eries such as Baxter’s arbor that offer slips for eps from the kitchen. No y speedboat; a rented . Stay awhile, recline in rderabatch of Bloody alty—from the vintage r crewaround of lobster m to the nearest sandbar. 775-4490, baxterscapeVINCETOWN ncetown Harbor, many tling Commercial Street offer stunning water views. The Harbor Lounge boasts some of the best, in addition to local beers, sangria, martinis, and old-fashioneds. Situated at the end ofacourtyard, the laid-back drinking spot (open from April through the end of the year) has large windows that wrap around the place, and a pier out back withasurreal view of the harbor, and, if you’re lucky, a glorious sunset. 359 Commercial Street, 508-413-9527, theharborlounge.com – Marc Hurwitz GREAT ISLAND TRAIL, WELLFLEET One of the most scenic hikes in New England is tucked into the curving arm of the Outer Cape. Wellfleet’s Great Island Trail begins withagentle walk along an inlet, then climbs into a pitchpine forest. From there, the tops of dunes unfurl panoramic views of Cape Cod Bay, while pristine stretches of sand are completely devoid of umbrellas. The full loop—withajaunt out to Jeremy Point when the tide is out—totals 8.8 miles. Bring lots of water, more sunscreen than you think you need, and a bathing suit for taking a mid-hike dip in the bay. Griffin Island and Chequessett Neck roads, nps.gov/caco/planyourvisit/greatislandtrail.htm–Madeline Bilis CHATHAM BAND CONCERTS, CHATHAM Promptly at 8 p.m. on Friday nights, the reduniformed Chatham Band sings out a chipper “Hip-Hip Hi-De-Ho!” and launches into its opener, “Band Time in Chatham.” Arrive early to claim a grassy spot near the bandstand and be prepared to join in the crowd-pleasing “Bunny Hop.” For an old-fashioned afternoon, start with a lobster roll lunch at the First United Method-