Color Project '19: Going Ginger

Going Ginger:

A Process (Or Four)

Project by Briana Augustinos

We meet my client, and cut
she shows me what she’s color
after. Unfortunately, it
looks like we’re going to
have to do some color
quad-rection.

before
42

31

We started by highlighting
the third quadrant with a
medium-to-fine weave (that
got chunky at parts, let’s not
lie). This section did not
receive color; only powder
bleach mixed with 20 volume
cream developer.

Next, we had to cover some
gray in quadrant one. For
this formulation I used
Redken Color Fusion with
equal parts 6NN and 6GB. I
used 20 vol. developer and
let it sit for 40 minutes.

For quadrant two we used
filler to deepen previously
lifted hair. For this process I
used the Redken Shades EQ
Gloss line. I mixed one part
5N to one part 6G with two
parts processing solution. If I
did this over, I’d replace 5N
with 5Cb for extra warmth.

For the fourth and final
quadrant I returned to the
Color Fusion line and mixed
two parts 7NGb and one part
6Ab with an equal portion of
10 volume developer. I still
went far too cool with this;
instead of the “ash” shade, a
simple 6N would have
sufficed.

4
2

31

This is where we are now:
time to lift. I began by hitting
the back two quadrants with
bleach and 30 vol. developer,
going a little harder on the
developer to maintain a
liquid consistency and
prevent drying.

Quadrants two and
four I hit with ten
and twenty volume
bleach mixes
respectively. I did
attempt to put in
foiled highlights
before applying
lightener to the
rest of the hair on
two and four, but
they didn’t end up
showing. After, I
soap-capped the
whole head with
the leftover 20 vol.
mix to try for one
last round of lift.

Now for color! Quadrants one and three I
treated with one color
formulation, and two and four
each with their own. One and
three received a mix of Color
Fusion 1pt 7Cc + 1pt 8Gb +
1pt 20vol. + 1pt 40vol. (we
were out of 30). Quad four got
the same treatment but with
only 2pts 20vol. developer and
a pinch (literally just pinched
the tube) of 6C. For quadrant
two I used twice as much 6C
as quad four, and 10 vol.
developer. I also foiled out hair
around the T-zone in two and
four to match the dimension
in the back. I left all sections
on for at least 30 minutes. The
resulting color was almost
completely even.

The final step in the coloring
process was to glaze quadrant
two, which was too vivid
compared, and to add a
shadow root and lowlights. For
both of these I turned to
Shades EQ. The glaze formula
was 1pt 5C + 1pt 7C + splash
Orange Kicker + splash Yellow
Kicker + 2pt processing
solution. The shadow root and
lowlights were created with 2pt
5C + 1pt 3A + splash Yellow
Kicker + 3pt processing
solution. In retrospect I would
have added more lowlights to
the back two quads, but both
me and my client loved what
we ended up with.

We wanted to
keep Ms
Molly’s length,
so we opted for
a long tapered
shag cut.

I used point
and slide
cutting for
her layers,
and the twist
technique for
her fringe.

After applying Work by Bri August ‘19
some frizz dismiss
serum, I
scrunched her hair
with the Redken
Full Frame 07
Mousse and the
Curvaceous CCC
Spray Gel and
dried with a
diffuser. To
complete the look I
gave her some
freckles—adds
authenticity, don’t
it?